Another Summertime Saturday in Glasgow, The Glorious Twelfth as it happens. Fear not, the Hector is not off to grab a brace of Grouse, however, if someone knows anywhere in this city serving Baterai/Quail without advance notice, do let me know. Maybe Wednesday, next week in Manchester?
The rains have not subsided, the city centre streets remain blocked off, most bus routes are affected. I can only imagine the shock when passengers find themselves speeding up/down the M8 under Charing X to accommodate the cyclists above. So it goes.
At 13.50, across the river, Hector found himself once again in Allison Street. As spotted at the start of the week, what was: Lasani Grill, Al-Anwar, Basharat G’z, Spice Haven, Nan Factory, is now Shinwari. (223-225 Allison Street, Glasgow, G42 8RU).
The dining area appeared to be untouched since I last ate here. Two tables now occupy the entrance area along with a fruit juice bar, yet to be set up. If I was going to engage, out front seemed like a good place to sit.
Ready Curry was on display, one stood out (below right). I took this to be their Chicken Curry (£5.00) as advertised on the board. With a presumably Yogurt-rich Masala, this almost looked tempting, OK a fallback, last resort even, if my intended Dish was not yet available.
Yes, this was something different.
I found a menu on the counter, the glorious Namkeen Karahi (£30.00) was only available by the kilo. Marg had nearly joined me today, but knowing what awaits next week, decided otherwise. I shall let her down gently. A half kilo of Lamb Charsi Karahi (£15.00) was what was in mind upon arrival. There was no premium for ordering the ordering the half kilo, customer friendly.
A mature chap took the Order. Above medium Spice, not crazy – raised a smile. This seems to work. No Chapattis, a Plain Nan (£1.00) would do. Realistic Bread prices. I noticed that – Nan Factory – is still prominent behind the counter. That incarnation was an offshoot of – Original Khyber – in Shawlands.
My choice of seat was to hopefully engage the chaps working and establish how this Shinwari has come about after the demise of the once nearby Shinwari Restaurant. In all, I counted six chaps working this afternoon, quite an investment at a venue which either keeps failing, or proves to be too much to handle.
Ten minutes after placing my Order, a young chap brought out the Karahi and Naan, then quickly presented an extra plate for the bones, plus a bottle of chilled water with accompanying glass and napkins. How he got all this on the table in seemingly an instant, did impress. A disturbingly quick Karahi, but if the kitchen is set up to produce this regularly, so be it. It doesn’t take that long to create a Tomato-based Masala. Still, the chaps from Guinness Book of Records could be called here.
Sliced in two, the Naan was huge given the price. The Tandoor was within sight of where I sat, but with perforations, the Bread had not been allowed to rise.
I thought I might manage half.
*
Lamb Charsi Karahi
The portion looked to be substantial, but still very much – a portion. How the half kilo is measured has never been defined. The Ginger Strips on top were plentiful, a sprinkling of Coriander sat beneath. The watery residue I have come to associate with – Charsi – was collecting around the edges. The Masala was the distinctive, Tomato based, yet there was not the abundance associated with – Charsi. Not a trace of – pink.
The lack of Seasoning was immediately noted. The Spice Level was never going to be ferocious, but built steadily. Segments of cooked-in Green Chillies were unearthed as I made progress. A Tomato, then Peppery blast hit the palate. The depth of Flavour in a Charsi Karahi tends not to match that of a Lahori Karahi. Tends not to, however, two weeks ago at Afghan Darbar (Antwerpen) a new standard was set for Afghan Cuisine. There was an Afghan Karahi with an outstanding depth of Flavour. Today’s was on a par with what is served in Glasgow.
The Meat was chewy, the majority of the pieces were on-the-bone, two small Sucky Bones and many others. Care had to be taken, tiny bones, dangerous if not addressed properly. The Flavour of the Lamb itself was pronounced.
I was taking my time, the two chaps I had engaged with each asked the customary question. I had to declare my enjoyment, and took the opperchancity to glean some information. Shinwari has been open – one and a half months. After they consulted, I was assured that this Shinwari was separate from its predecessor.
Around the half way mark, judging by the array of bones on the adjacent plate, I had to re-evaluate my strategy. This – portion – was certainly the half kilo. The Bread was abandoned, I had managed but a third of the Naan.
A chap, dressed for the office, entered and dealt with the mail. Meet the new Boss?
Hello, sir! – the Hector had been hailed, but was there recognition? He disappeared before I could engage him further.
In time, I was staring at defeat. I had to eat all the Meat, and got there eventually. The low level of Seasoning maintained, the intensity of Flavour overall was as anticipated. The Oily residue on the base of the karahi plus some Masala Mash would normally have been wiped off, there lies pleasure in the extreme. This would require more Bread, today, not possible. The Hector appetite had been sated. Forty four minutes of eating, exhausted, why do I do this to myself? Salty lips, how had this come about?
The Bill
£16.00 No sneaky Salad, therefore no additions.
The Aftermath
It was a different young chap who dealt with the payment and therefore received the Calling Card. Hector Holmes was in full flow.
The Chef here is the same as at the original Shinwari Restaurant. The owner has many shops, Shawlands was mentioned, – Original Khyber – I assume, Namak Mandi was mentioned oft. I have a photo of the Chef from my visit to Original Khyber, and I saw him here today. As for Namak Mandi, the chap I know as The Boss from there is 
not the guy whom I met today. Another case for Hector Holmes who notes that Namak Mandi did not move to their larger premises at the end of last year as announced. One thing for certain, the half kilo at Shinwari is appreciably more substantial than has been served at Namak Mandi.
Menu extracts
With Hector free from kitchen duties this Sunday afternoon, ah well, why not? 
At 13.35, some ladies were queuing for Takeaway, four chaps were sitting in the dining area, awaiting their Order. I stood at the entrance to the dining area waiting to be served. Around six trays of ready-Curry were lined up in the display counter. Aloo Gobi was already in mind, but the words Lamb on-the-bone proved to be seductive. The Chicken Rice would accompany, in effect, two main courses. As ever prices cannot be quoted, is there a board which I keep missing, a menu even? 
Cutlery, napkins and Raita were brought in a flash. My fellow diners appeared to be having Kebap based food. 
The Chicken Rice, a Biryani in effect, came with a Salad garnish. Raita was duly applied, the remainder would be useful if I ended up with Dry Rice. There was a powerful aromatic sense of Spice emanating from the Rice. The two pieces of Chicken, also on-the-bone, would be little more than a distraction. 
The two comparatively huge lumps of Potato gave it away, this was way more than Lamb on-the-bone. I counted the Meat into double figures as I arranged the pieces over the Rice. I retained some of the Shorva for later, Coriander stems were visible here.
Starting with the Rice, there was a big Clove presence. Aromatic indeed, this was Spicy Rice. The Lamb was suitably soft, and having sat in the Spicy Shorva had absorbed its Flavour. This was Desi Cuisine, and why the Hector favours these modest venues over Mainstream Restaurants. Curry Cafes are also more affordable for the frequent diner. 
Imran Khan is in gaol, Donald Trump is not. Meanwhile in Glasgow, the city centre streets are blocked to traffic due to an ongoing international cycling event. With angry skies, Hector’s personal rain cloud looked as menacing as ever. Still no sign of summer, but the un-seasonal, cool temperatures suit the cyclists. 
The shutters were raised. Moiz got to work, standing in the spot where 
It took Moiz twenty five minutes to produce the Karahi and Chapatti. The Wholemeal Chapatti was a welcomed sight, having seen some strange interpretations on my recent travels. A sensible size and with appropriate girth, this would do the job.
No Ginger Strips or sliced Chillies on top today, just a sprinkling of Coriander. The ratio of Masala to Meat was such that here was – Dry – as I am happy to define it. The peripheral Oil was minimal. 
To provide variation, I arranged the Salad remnants on the side of the karahi, Diversity of Texture, I was loving this. If this standard can be maintained, then 
What is becoming the ritual presentation of Green Tea was hailed, and the news given that Moiz had Sparkling Water in his car. Then – The Big News. 
Never mind summer, can we have our city back?
Tonight’s Beef Stroganoff was cancelled when Marg announced that she would be fed elsewhere. Having hardly cooked in recent weeks, the Hector felt the need to get back into the kitchen. There would be Curry-Heute!
A modest slice of Frying Steak was meant to complement a larger slice of Rump, however the latter stayed in the freezer. Leftover Roast Potato, and Hector’s favourite – 
The Oil quickly separated in the karahi, not so attractive if having Bread, today was Rice. The Rice absorbed the Oil, end of. 
With the Meat cut small into double figures, there was enough in theory, but the remaining portion should surely have half, so maybe not. The Steak had cooked perfectly, the thirty minutes plus in the Masala had done enough. I like Mushrooms in Curry, so leaving them in lumps always pleases. The Potatoes were simply 
Apart from the Whole Spice, the plate was cleared. Another lesson learned this evening: the clearing of the plate was only managed because I sat at the dining table. When eating from a tray, the appetite quickly wanes. 
In the pages of Curry-Heute, 
rule. A new Crawley Curry House was suggested, but being a Monday, it was closed. Two nights ago Clive had marched me to witness another new venue – Dosa Club – whose grand opening is imminent. But surely this is an offshoot of the 
My Hosts were unaware of this Sri Lankan / South Indian addition to their quota of local Curry Houses. Being two minutes from our then locus added to the attraction. 
We entered Dosa Plazza at 20.00, not quite a restaurant per se, but more pukka than a Curry Cafe. It has been many years since
Chettinadu Mutton Curry (£9.00) was on the menu. I had to ask if this was – Soupy – or served with a Thick Masala. A Curry Sauce – was the reply. At least now I knew what to expect. Is there only one Curry House on the planet which serves a 
Maggie continued her Curry House ritual and chose Mutton Biryani (£9.50). Marg firstly announced Butter Chicken Masala (£8.50) then switched to Sri Lankan Mutton (£8.50) which she may have had at source. Why did we not record every meal in Sri Lanka back in 2003, as we did in 
Sat at a table along the right hand wall, at 20.38, we were invited to move to a larger table opposite given the quantity of food we had ordered. A different perspective, and let’s note the trivia: the jugs of tap water are the same as used at 
Initially I counted eight pieces of Meat, but this was revised upwards as the four forks returned for more. This was Dry Mutton encrusted with Spice and Herbs, reminiscent of the
The wait for the Mains was not long, we had been in situ for an appropriate length of time. 
Was Chappati spelled such to differentiate from – Chapatti? These were small, and bore little resemblance to anything encountered in sixty years of Curry eating. The density was remarked upon, far from the light, fluffy, floury, genre served anywhere else. And we had four of them. Hector has cooked better, and Hector cannot cook a Chapatti worth presenting. Three were eaten.
At £2.00, the cheapest Malabar Parotta encountered, but they are a rarity. As is the custom they come in this uniform size. 
Topped with a whole, hard-boiled Egg, the Rice was almost overflowing from the bowl. I managed to secure a photo of the decanted Biryani, enough Meat?
I did not spot the arrival of two pots, Yoghurt in one 
I have seen many an attempt at Karahi, and sadly, this is another. In what way on this planet was this a – Karahi? 
Yes we have – Soup – in the way that 
Onion Seeds and Curry Leaves were in the mix, although not visible, I’m sure I was getting Cloves in there too. The Meat was super-soft, well cooked Mutton, which had absorbed the Spices and was therefore giving back the Flavours. 
This was a Curry for eating with Rice, dipping the Parotta was risky business. Ah well, home tomorrow, a white t-shirt wash awaits. 
There’s more. As Marg was managing her Chapattis and minimal Rice, she decided she had too much Masala, this was coming Hector’s way. I drew a line across my plate of Meat and Rice, Marg’s Masala would form part three of my meal.
Yet another Soupy Curry, but a darker brown, – onion masala – was the given description. Marg pulled out a Dried Red Chilli, aha, the missing link! These I associate most with South Indian Curry, from here comes the telltale – Smokiness. It was a home-ground Garam Masala rich in Dried Red Chillies that got me through Lockdown. 
And so I cleared my plate featuring the Sri Lankan Masala. This was decidedly more potent than the Chettinad, just how much pleasure can a Hector have? 
After the outstanding 
Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of 
The business end of the menu offered a choice of Peshwari Lamb (£33.50) or Charsi Lamb (£33.50). On the assumption that nothing Afghani would match my recent 
From my vantage point I could see the main Chef work his magic at a huge karahi/wok. Whatever – Curry – he was working on was always topped up with a Masala from another karahi – The Big Pot. Given the size of the operation this must have been a necessity. This was Karahi Gosht on an industrial scale, remote from my usual Curry Cafes. 
The definite kilo of Karahi was topped with the customary Ginger Strips, sliced Bullet Chillies and a sprinkling of Coriander. The Masala was blended and so resembled nothing I associate with the Masala Mash that usually accompanies a Karahi. I shall stop short of – Shorva – but this was a – Soupy Karahi. Farewell to the pristine, white t-shirt. 
Clive was ahead of me in declaring the Meat to be Tender. The Lamb fell off the bone with minimal effort, importantly, this Meat was a – giver – of Spice/Flavour. And, for two, there was lots of it, three helpings. 
The Masala had a wonderfully rich Flavour, familiar, a blend of Spices I can never achieve, but – Mace – is now known. Will this dramatically alter Hector’s cooking? All Karahi recipes known to Hector include some Yoghurt added towards the end of cooking, today’s Masala was decidedly more – Creamy. Such was the lack of viscosity, I was tempted to note – Mainstream – but didn’t. Now it is written. 
The Spice Level built slowly, the Bullet Chillies adding their charm. The Seasoning was commendable, but nobody was shouting – 
With a Thick Masala, fibre rich in Meat pulp, this was more recognisable as – Karahi. 
The darker brown suggested less Yoghurt. Quite a portion, I was impressed that Maggie took care of this with comparable ease (no Starter, she’s learning). The Butter Naan did beat us both. A forkful of Masala came my way. If anything this was more powerfully Flavoured, more Seasoned, more Karahi-like. 
September 2022, when Hector last had a day in 
So why was Hector dining at Spoonful of India (Rue Sainte-Catherine 22, 1000 Brussel Belgium), when the easy choice was to return once more to 
The charming young waitress greeted and let me choose a small table some way into the long, and correspondingly narrow, premises. Hector was not going to be window dressing today. The Order was relayed having checked that Rice was not inclusive. Was that a Spice Level warning I was being given? 
At 14.05 there was a – Ding! – in the kitchen, not quite a World Record then. The Curry sat on the same plate as the Malabar Parota. I removed the Curry so as to see the Parota in all its glory. Served whole, as thankfully they always are, this was easily the largest Parota served to Hector yet. It was not the customary – white – but was close to the real deal. Soft and flaky, with lovely burnt bits, and the telltale spiral, this was a worthy Paratha. I would manage all, and not have to eke it out. 
Dry – this was not, so by definition, one has to challenge the efficacy. The Masala was certainly thick, and the pulped Meat added to this. I could not count the pieces of Lamb at the start as I was not going to needlessly decant to the plate. Plenty of Meat, this was going to be a filling meal.
Most of the Lamb was super-soft, one could have sucked as an alternative to chewing. The combination of Sukkha and Parota is tried and tested, they work brilliantly together. As an alternative to the oft reviewed Karahi Gosht this is certainly worth a try. And when in 
Authentic Punjabi/Lahori cuisine in 
It was the brother of Shahzad who greeted. Mutton (Beef) Karahi (€10.95) for two with Rice (€4.00) was confirmed. As we took our seat, so Shahzad, Mein Host, appeared from the kitchen. 
Dr. Stan arranged Fanta (€2.00), 330ml cans. This trip, Fanta has become cheaper each time we have ordered this Belgian version which, for unknown reasons, seems superior to that which is served outwith this nation. 
The Rice was approaching another fine example of a Euro-portion. Six more grains and the Hector might have been beaten. Dr. Stan and Hector would clear their plates, Mags doesn’t do so well with Rice.
Yes, the karahi looks small. Contained therein, were ten large pieces of Meat, such that the Masala was minimal. A Dry Karahi. QED. 
Ah the irony, by the time the Meat and Masala had been arranged over the Basmati, such was the rate of absorption, more Masala would have been welcomed. One day Hector will have the courage to ask:
A small plate of what came close to being classified as – foliage – added a bit of Diversity, the Chillies would certainly add more heat. Everything combined, there was no issue with the Spice Level, we had a – kick. The Seasoning was well below that which the Hector seeks. As a consequence, it took some time for the Flavours from the Masala to reveal themselves. That the Rice had soaked up the Masala didn’t help here. Subtle, but a sense of Cloves and Pepperiness was noted. 
Mags, who only remembered she had previously been here after she had taken her seat:
The Aftermath
Another day in Brugge, another Curry. Actually, most of the day was spent in 
Before all that, there was brunch once again with Dr. Stan and Mags. Jaipur Indian Tandoori (Blankenbergse Steenweg 29, 8000 Brugge) was the venue chosen by Hector today. Located outwith the city centre, in the north of Brugge, this necessitated a short bus ride (Bus 40). We arrived at 12.30, the door was wide open, no customers as yet. Two more couples arrived moments after ourselves, one Spanish, that would be all for this session. 
Mags’ choice today would be simple: Lamb Vindaloo (€17.95), close to her usual Aloo Gosht. This would be Hector’s fallback if the Lamb Karahi (€18.96) contained the dreaded – 
At a respectable 13.15, hot plates were brought to the table. The waiter brought two pots of Basmati assuring us that a third was available if required. For once, the abundant Euro-portion of Rice was being well managed. We just about finished the second pot. 
The Masala looked suitably Thick and was not excessive. Halved Cherry Tomatoes had been added towards the end. Red slivers of skin, possibly 
Dr. Stan was ahead of me in noting that the Spice was not registering. A slow burner. The Seasoning was well below the Hector idyll. 
The Masala looked so inviting, a true Curry, with the Oil gleaming on the periphery. I would happily have had this. On seeing the contents of the pot arranged on the Rice, I spotted two big wedges of Potato. These appeared to have absorbed the Masala. I was hoping to be invited to sample, not today. The lady had her – Aloo Gosht. 
