London – The India Club – Hotel Strand Continental – A Marathon Curry

It is the Sunday of the London Marathon, no Hector is not taking part. Marg is the athlete and she is in South Africa at the Hockey Masters World Cup for which Scotland have qualified. It is exactly one year today since Lord Clive, Lady Maggie, Marg and Hector dined at The India Club (Hotel Strand Continental, 143 Strand, London WC2R 1JA). Last year, apart from spectating at the Marathon, Marg and Hector were due to see Arena perform in Camden. The gig was postponed until last night, but a lack of trains made getting there impossible. The new album – The Theory of Molecular Inheritance – is another Clive Nolan masterpiece. Other dates on the current tour simply do not fit into an already full calendar. Hector is having a month of self-indulgence.

Clive and Hector arrived at The India Club at 14.15, in good time before the mid-afternoon break at 15.00. This is the fifth visit which means a dedicated page will be created forthwith, The India Club will be added to – Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses. This place is that good, simple, but authentic, Indian Fayre in a modest setting.

When we reached the top of the stairs and entered the dining room, three tables were occupied. The masses simply do not know of this venue, Curry-Heute will hopefully help flag it.

I had already persuaded Clive that we should order three Main Courses. London Portions – unless one has a Starter, there’s a good chance you’ll leave simply wanting more. Bhuna Lamb – Chef Special (£13.00) with the Capsicum Garnish withheld was the plan. Two portions of Pilau Rice (£4.00) would accompany. Sparkling Water (£2.75) was declined, the waiter brought it to the table but advised that it was warm. No ice? Tap Water would suffice.

The waiter did the raised eyebrows when I asked for Bhuna times three. Maybe they should offer their Mains in differing sizes? One is always happy to pay extra for a declared larger size of portion. Paying extra? The prices at The India Club have increased in line with inflation, not the level admitted by the government, but the reality to reflect the cost of key ingredients having doubled.

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When one orders Pilau, one expects a bit of colour, not today. The Rice did have Cumin Seeds, always a bonus. The sensible portion was enough to cover the plate, who needs more Rice?

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Bhuna Lamb – Chef Special

Served – naked – as requested, the Dark, Rich Masala beckoned. I tilted half a portion of Curry over my Rice and did likewise for Clive. This covered more of the Rice than I had envisaged. Has the portion size actually increased? The irony.

When the full portion was added, here was a feast. The Meat count was well into double figures, possibly approaching the half kilo, this was more like it. There was only a trace of Oil. Here was a classic Tomato-rich, Minimal Masala, an authentic Bhuna. Why do so many venues get this wrong?

Remember Curry Houses back in the 1960s, OK, 1970s? There was something simple, straightforward back then, an instant blast of Spice. This Bhuna may have shared the appearance but was markedly different, a slow burner. The Spice felt innocuous at the start, but registered slowly on the palate, growing steadily. I recorded the Seasoning as – neutral. Similarly, the Flavours revealed themselves gradually. Had this been a first visit, there might have been concern, however, one knew what was coming. Every mouthful was better than the last. This is where the added quantity came to the fore. A standard portion, and it would all have been over too soon. That the Meat required a good chew also prolonged the pleasure, and no, it wasn’t tough, far from it. Today I got to savour this wonderful creation for even longer.

Every grain of Rice was meticulously rounded up, the solitary Green Cardamom is all that remained on the plate. For the first time at The India Club, I felt replete, sated.

Clive made a brief comment:

Pretty good, three portions is about right.

The Bill

£47.00    Service not included.

The Aftermath

The staff acknowledged us we left.

Walking up Kingsway, which has taken on a new significance, Hector’s mouth was in a happy place. Seasoning it was there, and was still registering.

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