Glasgow – Namak Mandi – Samstag Kindergarten

When Chapatti John spotted this photo published on a certain social medium by Namak Mandi (21-23 Bridge St, Glasgow G5 9JB) back on June 15, he had to have it, a date was put in the diary. Today happened to be the first opperchancity when John, Dr. Stan and Hector could dine together, Mags wasn’t for missing out. Four out for Curry on a Saturday afternoon? It has been a while.

The main room was almost empty when we entered just after 15.00, however, the side room was curtained off, a kiddies’ party well underway. It was noisy.

We were shown to a table for eight, to give room for the food. Within the next half hour every table in the room was occupied by family groups, even here there might have been as many weans as adults. Hector was growling.

Dr. Stan and Hector had previously agreed to share a kilo of the Special Namkeen Karahi (£33.00). John announced that he had eaten earlier, and had therefore taken the edge off his appetite. John couldn’t face the Mixed Grill (£24.00) on his own, he agreed to share a kilo with Mags. Hector was having the Chilli Naan (£3.00), Chapattis were not on the menu, John enquired, Chapattis (£1.00) were ordered.

Jugs of Water were already on the table, available only to those dining a la carte, as we were told on the last visit here for the Buffet Lunch back in 2020. The Buffet Lunch, which was incredible value, was suspended during Covid. One wonders if it will return.

The last time I had the kilo of Namkeen Karahi at Namak Mandi was in 2018, then it cost £23.98. If those who calculate the rate of inflation included Curry Houses in their calculations, the published rate of inflation would be significantly higher.

I have written about Namkeen Karahi already this week. Do read the account of my controversial visit to Mother India Cafe (Edinburgh). As today’s Karahi was already in the diary, maybe there was something subliminal going on in Hector’s brain on Wednesday when faced with the prospect of an inferior, Mainstream Karahi. Namak Mandi serve authentic Karahi. The Tomato-based Lamb Charsi Karahi (£15.00) is also available, ideal for an odd numbers of diners, or couples not brave enough to go for the Namkeen!

A Complimentary Salad, featuring Green Olives, was provided along with Chilli Sauce and Raita. Once divvied up, this was no more than an Amuse Bouche. We all commented on both the Flavour and Spice Level of the Chilli Sauce, excellent.

We settled down for the wait, a Namkeen Karahi is not going to appear in a flash, even allowing for the Lamb presumably being pre-cooked. Settled? Not in Hector’s case. Why do wee girls have to scream? The noise from next door wasn’t abating, was there a disco or a game of pass the parcel? Then there was the beat of a drum, oh no. Not to be left out, we had bawling weans in the main room.

I haven’t seen tears like this since my Higher Geography class.

John insisted that I shouldn’t be – grumpy – regarding the children. My days of tolerating weans have long gone.

Food must have been served next door, all went quiet-ish. In the main room, the families had their Kebabs long before our Karahi would arrive, it was not as bad as it could have been.

The Wholemeal Chapattis were suitably large, great value. They were presented as – Roti, but didn’t go crispy. In my Blog, theses are – Chapattis. Five in all came to the table. I’ve seen John wade through piles of the things, today two sufficed, Dr. Stan wasn’t holding back, he was soon well into his second.

The Chilli Naan had abundant Coriander too. The Naan was decidedly thin, not the risen, puffy Naan I dream of. However, this was ideal given the quantity of Meat facing me. That I nearly managed all of it, I found to be remarkable. This Chilli Naan proved to be the perfect accompaniment.

Namkeen Karahi

Photos of both, the one on my side of the table would turn out to have more bones. John would announce later that he only had three bones on his plate, this suited him. John invited Mags to draw a line, difficult given the quantity of runny Masala. Dr. Stan took a share, I did the same, that which was left was easily another portion each.

These were – good – kilos. Being John’s first Namkeen, I had to explain the difference from our usual Lahori Karahi – Salt and Black Pepper, nothing – red. The menu states Onions are included, this is more than acceptable in Hector’s World of Karahi.

The Oily Masala was runny, but way more complex than a Shorva. The Garlic was easy to spot, so no surprise when the first intake revealed a huge Peppery and Garlic blast! With a Salt & Pepper base, the Seasoning was never going to be in doubt. It was Mags who pointed out the role of the Bone Marrow in adding both Flavour and the Texture. Sucky Bones were aplenty.

The joy of having a first plateful and knowing a second awaits is what sharing a kilo is all about. The Lamb was beautifully Tender, just enough chewing required. Importantly, the Lamb was giving Flavour, this how one differentiates from what one receives in a Mainstream Restaurant. Back to the Masala, so simple a concept, bursting with Flavour, immense.

This was when the Chilli Naan was validating my choice. Had it been thicker I would have had to abandon it sooner. Somehow, today I was able to keep going. Spoon in one hand, Naan in the other, every mouthful was sheer joy, the Garlic was magnificent.

Dr. Stan, using both his knife and fork, matched me all the way. Our piles of bones grew on the plates. Mags and John were finished long before us, how they managed this I know not, far too busy concentrating on our our steadily emptying karahi.

As is the custom at Namak Mandi, every member of staff seemed to come over to check on our progress and ask the customary question. Four diners, devouring two kilos, madness?

At this rate they’ll be bringing in passers by to ask us – I remarked.

Half a Chapatti, a scrap of Naan and piles of Bones is all that remained at the end. The families had long since departed, peace in our time. Time for some contributions:

My first White Karahi – said John – and I thoroughly enjoyed it. Two Chapattis were enough.

Mags – I really enjoyed that, it has been a while, full of flavour.

I was unaware of any – Mmmmmms – from Dr. Stan this afternoon.

I thought it was very good, a peppery flavour to it.

We all enjoyed the change from the Lahori Karahi.

John had more to say:

It’s a pity the drums weren’t beaten, I was ready to give you an aspirin.

The Bill

£74.00 The card machine was not working. Somewhat surprisingly, we had enough cash between us.

The Aftermath

Mein Host had been popping in and out throughout our visit. As we departed, I congratulated him on the quality of the Fayre. He asked if his son had told us the big news, nope. Announced today in the media, Namak Mandi is moving round the corner to significantly larger premises (100 Norfolk St., Glasgow G5 9EJ). In five years, they have outgrown their present locus. This could well become the largest Curry House in Glasgow.  A one minute walk from the south side of the Suspension Bridge, this should bring even more business.

The corner of South Portland St. on Norfolk St., is where they are headed in three months. With all this space, hopefully the Buffet Lunch can be accommodated once more.

 

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Edinburgh – Mother India Cafe – Steady on, Hector!

Challenges, confrontations even, are rare in Curry-Heute, that this reviewer was in full Hector mode, before a morsel had been eaten, must be a record. Welcome to Edinburgh.

This is the third consecutive Wednesday that Hector has found himself in the Capital. Two weeks ago it was tea and sandwiches with His Majesty, The Prince of Wales, his mummy didn’t show. Last Wednesday, an enjoyable Curry, by invitation, at the recently opened Cilantro. Today, somewhere new, I was surprised to note so many Curry Houses open mid afternoon in the East. It could take a few years to get round even these, my favourites have to be enjoyed again also.

Mother India Cafe (3-5 Infirmary St, Edinburgh EH1 1LT) has no apostrophe on the exterior signage, whereas Glasgow’s original Mother India’s Cafe does. However, the menu here has the apostrophe, I wish they would make up their mind.

The premises are much larger than I first took in when I checked out the location on my last visit to Kebab Mahal. A double unit, Mother India Cafe is even larger than the Glasgow counterpart. Arriving at 14.20, I was led past some thirty odd diners to a small table in the far corner at the window. Hector, window dressing once again. Two large family groups were present, the majority of the clientele had their roots in the Indian Subcontinent. The couple who sat at the adjacent table were thus, but with US/Canadian accents. Edinburgh in the summertime.

The waitress brought the lunchtime and main menu. Neither a Starter or the Ice Cream was of interest. Hector, when faced with Tapas, adopts a two Curry model with Bread. A 330ml bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.25) was ordered. Expensive Water.

I set about the photographic ritual, recording the parts of the menu which were of interest. With a particularly bright sun at my back, and an alternative camera in play today, I couldn’t actually see much of what I was taking. Thankfully, all turned out to a level of satisfaction.

Machi Masala (£8.95) was a given. This must appear in at least eighteen of the nineteen reviews of the Glasgow Branch.

Machi Masala, the best Fish Curry served in Glasgow? Who says? Hector!

I hold this Curry to be sacred.

Lamb Karahi (£8.25), I had to ask. Sometimes in Glasgow’s Mother India’s Cafe, withholding the unnecessary Capsicum Ballast has been possible, it appears to have depended on the person serving. The description of today’s version had me worried already:

Lamb cooked in a rich pepper sauce.

This use of – pepper – implies Capsicum, not – Peppercorn. Maybe this is the defining criterion which distinguishes an Authentic Karahi from the Mainstream? Last week at Cilantro, the Capsicum was blended in. As agreed, no wedges were presented. If I don’t see it, I don’t know it’s there. Lamb Saag (£7.95) would be the fallback, a Paratha (£3.25) completing the Order.

I asked the waitress the Big Question, the reply took me back to Visit #2 of #3 at Masala Twist (Helensburgh) – The Capsicum was already in the Karahi. A venue whose base Masala is centrally cooked and sent out to the various outlets. No flexibility, no invention, possible. Was that the case here – I pondered.

It shouldn’t be there at all – was my sharp reply.

I was then reminded that here, it’s a – pepper based sauce.

Hector’s buttons had just been pressed.

Authentic Karahi is not made from Peppers, it’s a Tomato-based Masala – I informed her. (Onions too are standard).

I could show you a hundred recipes on YouTube, Peppers are not part of an Authentic Karahi.

(OK, it could take me a while to prove this, more below.)

Cue the Manager, the conversation basically repeated, both sides adamant. I was offered a Lamb Bhuna, which I note was not on the menu. I resorted to my fallback Saag. For those who follow this Blog, today, I was not craving Spinach.

The room I was in emptied somewhat, save the family group along the opposite wall. The wait was appropriate.

The Paratha ticked most of Curry-Heute’s boxes: served whole, layers, flaky, the spiral. Seemingly a near perfect Paratha, however, it did turn to crisp as it cooled. I couldn’t help but think about the beautifully soft Malabar (white) Paratha as served at Tanjore – South Indian Restaurant along the road. I managed most before the appetite was almost sated, and the crispiness meant diminishing returns.

Machi Masala

The bright orange colour has become a feature of the Glasgow version in recent times, and here it was. If one goes back to 2010 and the beginnings of Curry-Heute, this Curry had a much browner Masala.

Four large pieces of Fish sat in the Orange Masala which contained finely chopped Onions. Blend, then add the chopped Onions? The Spice was decidedly – medium – the Seasoning was enough, just, to let me know this was a Fish Curry. Therefore there was no Big Blast of Flavour. The slight Tanginess was well short of the full on Citrus which marks the Glasgow version.

Wonderful Fish Curry is hard to find, this was enjoyable. Whether it’s the best Fish Curry served in Edinburgh, I know not, however, Mother India’s Cafe (Glasgow) deserves its accolade. Well, I would say that.

Lamb Saag

The pot was commensurate with a Tapas portion, what came out astonished. The Dark Masala was separating as the Oil does in my beloved Karahi. But this was not Oil, it looked more watery. A sprig of Fresh Spinach sat atop. I decided to empty the pot on to the plate such that I could stir the Masala once more.

Saag v Palak, are the terms truly interchangeable? As has been written oft, when ordering Palak Gosht, Hector hopes for Masala with Herbs, not a mash of green and nothing recognisable as a sauce. This Herby Masala was decidedly – Soupy, something one tries to avoid. I counted the Meat to six, however, two pieces of Lamb were enormous. These would not be halved but – thirded – taking the portion up to double figures. For a Tapas portion, this was impressive. Thirded – never used that before.

The Lamb was such a disappointment. Once the pieces were opened up, the pinkness was to the fore, absorption of Masala and Flavour had basically not occurred. Bland Meat.

I am used to the intensity of Flavour in a Palak Gosht as served, say at Yadgar (Glasgow), where five types of leaves are used to make the mash. I am also able to recall the Flavours of certain venues, ah the Kofta Palak served once upon a time at Cafe Salma (Glasgow). Today’s lacked a depth of Flavour. At times the Flavour was on the edge of being unpleasant. Thankfully it was far from the antiseptic taste I have encountered at some venues. Antiseptic? There’s a search facility top right on this page. Today’s I could eat, not the worst, far from being the best.

Enjoyment?

Both the waitress and the Manager had come to check on my progress, brave. I wasn’t for reciting this analysis of the Fayre, that’s why Curry-Heute exists. I made suitably positive noises. As should be apparent, if it’s Curry, I want it, enjoyment is therefore a given. The Glasgow Branch is way better.

The Bill

£23.40   It quickly mounts up.

I note there is a 10% surcharge for groups of five or more. Don’t start me on that. Why penalise diners for bringing more business, especially when there are dozens of venues to choose from? Two family groups today…

The Aftermath

The Manager was keen to continue our conversation, moments like this I love. I immediately gave the Calling Card such that he would become aware of what was unfolding.

Glasgow Curry Lasani Grill Curry-Heute (20)He mentioned the regional variations of cooking in India, licence therefore for Chefs to use any ingredients they choose. I refrained from telling him I had been to India, let him continue. When he mentioned the Mughlai (Moghuls) here was the opperchancity to mention the Namkeen (White) Karahi (illustrated), made from Meat (Mutton/Goat), Salt and Pepper, nothing – red – and absolutely no – Capsicum. He hadn’t heard of it. So it goes. 

Move on.

I had to ask the burning question – was the base Masala shipped through from Glasgow? This was denied, however, he did use the term – franchise. Is that not how – franchises – operate, central suppliers etc?

Regional variations? Indeed, the East of Scotland is a regional variation.

Akbar’s (Glasgow) aside, Hector tends to avoid chains. And no way shall I ever set foot in Akbar’s mother shop in Bradford. In Bradford there’s surely better, however, if one desires a Bradford Curry in Glasgow, it has to be Akbar’s.

I believe all parties showed grace on my departure. Fear not, there are other venues still to be explored in Edinburgh, and as written above, I have my favourites already.

A Brief History of Spice and Capsicum

On my first trip to Portugal (Madeira, 2017) I had a Portuguese Dish which featured Pork and Potatoes in a Wine-rich Sauce, I realised this must have been the origins of https://bier-traveller.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Lisboa-Belem-Bier-Traveller-17.jpgVindaloo (traditionally a Pork Curry). A bit of research that day, and Vasco da Gama became my hero.

The fifteenth-sixteenth centuries expansion of the Ottoman Empire to the west, coincided with the invasion to the east, by the aforementioned Moghuls from Persia (Iran). The Spices for which Europeans had acquired a taste since the days of Marco Polo were cut off. The Spices: Cinnamon, Cloves, Nutmeg, Ginger and Pepper, i.e., Peppercorns. The latter were abundant in Malabar, southern India.

Before the sixteenth century, there were no Chillies/Capsicum in Asia, and so Vasco da Gama sailed east to Malabar with shiploads of these, and the other glorious Vegetable also sourced from The Americas, Aloo, the Potato. Vasco da Gama returned to Europe with Peppercorns, sorted.  Amerigo who? (1492 : Conquest of Paradise)

The Moghuls therefore had no Chillies/Capsicum when they arrived in India bringing their Karahi cooking with them. Green Chillies now appear in recipes for Namkeen Karahi, Capsicum does not! I even asked Marg to do a Google search for Karahi recipes this evening, her devices are not full of Spice/Curry cookies, she found no mention of Capsicum in any recipe! QED.

Whilst I’m on this subject, the following Curry Houses serve authentic Karahi Gosht, Capsicum has never been an issue, because it plays no part in this Curry.

Edinburgh – Rustom Restaurant, Desi Pakwan. (David P, you should have found DP when on Leith Walk!)

Glasgow – Yadgar, Karahi Palace, Ambala, DumPukht Lahori.

Manchester – Lahori Badsha.

Huddersfield – Lahori Taste.

Wakefield – Syhiba Restaurant.

Peterborough – Lahore Tandoori Restaurant.

Sheffield – Wicker Kebabish.

Whitechapel – Lahore Kebab House, Dilpasand Restaurant.

AthensPak Taka Tak, Punajbi Tikka

IstanbulKarachi Darbar, Nosh-E-Jaan

Of course if one likes Capsicum, and how did you get this far down the page? – then avoid these outstanding venues and eat – Mainstream Curry. What happened to Bradford? They have their very own – Methi Gosht.

Mother India Cafe – Menu extracts

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Glasgow – The Village “Curry House” – An Achari Craving

Sometimes the craving is for Spinach, today it was Achari, a hangover, if you like, from last Wednesday’s visit to Cilantro (Edinburgh). I was just getting into their wonderful Achari Aloo when knew I had reached my limit. I know of no Achari Aloo being served in Glasgow, so it was back to The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA) for some Achari Gosht (£12.95).

Hector’s preferred 15.00 eating slot saw five diners at The Village and as many staff. The two waitresses were being supervised by the Manager. Kassif and Mr. Baig were also spotted, but may have been off duty, if such a state ever exists. As for my fellow diners, a son and a daughter with their respective parents. The Mother of Hector always enjoyed her visits here.

A 250ml bottle of Sparkling Water (£1.95) and Mushroom Rice (£3.50) would accompany the Achari Gosht. The waitress offered Lamb on-the-bone, an option always taken. I asked for Desi style too to ensure I would receive the best Curry that The Village has to offer.

The wait was under ten minutes.

How does one make an Achari? Take a Lamb Curry, stir in the Pickle, hey presto!

I’m sure every restaurant must be using the same tub.

The Rice just about covered the plate, definitely not enough for sharing. Big price, small portion, an ongoing issue regarding Rice at The Village. They have to make their money somehow I suppose. I cannot help but recall the magnificent Vegetable Rice that was served in the original Village Cafe back in the day. In the end, there was enough Rice, and the Mushrooms were fresh, mission accomplished.

Achari Gosht

Given the quantity of Masala present, Rice was certainly the correct option. I decanted the Meat, I think I reached a count of eight, eventually. Strangely, bones with no Meat attached were in the mix, this did feel like a bit of a con. The Meat was super-soft, and gave off so much Flavour, I’ve done well in this respect of late.

Desi style – the Spice hit hard, the Seasoning was a la Hector, perfection. The Pickle Blast satisfied the craving, I even ate the Lime Rind. I was so glad I had ordered the Mushrooms, the extra solids were most certainly required, else I would have had only Rice and Masala in the endgame. Every grain of Rice was eaten, Hector was back on form. No excesses today, a portion of Curry and Rice that ticked all the boxes. However, at the end, the quantity of bones did look somewhat disproportionate to the quantity of Lamb actually eaten.

Without the Pickle, this Masala would no doubt have had the distinctive Village Taste, which once upon a time I couldn’t get enough of. Then there’s the Methi Gosht (£12.95), and the Kofta Palak (£11.95), looks like I’ll be coming back here with a greater regularity in the coming weeks.

The Bill

£18.40    Prices are certainly creeping up.

The Aftermath

As I left I pondered: what ever happened to the Glasgow Ladies who ran the lunchtime sessions at The Village with such enthusiasm?

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Glasgow – Yadgar – On a Thursday Night

Why is it called – Kebab House – asked Graeme as we departed from Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP)? On Visit #1, I wondered about this also, my first reaction was:  – Oh no, it’s just another kebab take-away outlet –  of which every city in Europe has too many.

Is there finer Curry served in all of Glasgow?

Kath and Graeme are down from Aberdoom, this was their first Yadgar experience, substantial leftovers would go back north.

We arrived at 18.00, a kilo of Goshat Karahi had been pre-arranged, the ladies would make their choices after surveying the Daily Specials. 

I am used to sitting in a near empty Yadgar mid-afternoon. Tonight’s dining experience was different, all tables occupied at some point, and the Takeaway orders were relentless.

The Preamble – as Shkoor has named this segment

Shkoor, Mein Host, was there to greet as we entered. Introductions were made, Marg went up to the counter to see what was on offer. The ladies were not here for a mass of Meat. On her return, Shkoor listed four Vegetable Dishes: Aloo Gobi, Daal, Alloo Baengan (Aubergine/Eggplant) and Chana Masala. The Aloo Gobi was a given, there is no finer example of this Curry served in Glasgow. Graeme cooks a mean Daal, Yadgar’s would have to be tested. Neither Kath nor Marg particularly like Aubergine, so why this was ordered we’ll never know. I warned Marg off Chana Masala at Mela last week, ah well…

Starters will arrive – I assured my guests. Exactly what, I didn’t know, however, I had planted a seed when placing the order for the Goshat Karahi – if anything in Fish comes our way, also appreciated.

A Salad with sliced Green Olives was the first to arrive, along with two pots of heated Chilli Sauce. The in-laws don’t like Olives (yet), all the more for Marg and Hector!

Fish Pakora, always a delight, especially when freshly made, was next up. Graeme recognised this to be Haddock. One day, I should go to Yadgar and just have a plateful to myself, it is that wonderful. Perhaps I should arrange with Naveed to give me a heads up. Three halved Chapli Kebabs, another Yadgar treat, sneaked on to the table. By now it was a matter of accepting the generosity, but becoming aware that the more food eaten now, the less of the Mains that could be tackled.

The Chapli had a good kick and were perfectly Seasoned. Again one could eat these all day. We’re not finished, the young waiter appeared with a tray on which foil could be seen standing up…more Fish. This time, baked Mackerel. Spicy, tasty, Fishy! Another addition for the Yadgar page.

I asked for an interlude before the Mains, this was duly noted. That Chapattis would accompany was verified, three to start. During our break, three familiar faces on Curry-Heute arrived. So the chaps are sneaking out to Yadgar and not inviting Hector? I reminded Shkoor that the last time we four dined here was Visit #100, actually, Jim missed it!

Graeme did a double take when he saw the Chapattis. You don’t get these in Aberdoom. A fourth would arrive later, just in case.

*

*

Goshat Karahi

I have seen many a half kilo and questioned the quantity. I know what a kilo looks like, this must have been appreciably more. Kath looked on, aghast, Graeme and Hector were going to demolish this? We would give it our best shot before accepting that a decent portion could be left and go north.

Graeme tore in – the second best Lamb Chops – he’d ever had, he would later declare. I had to explain that Ambala’s Lamb Chops were from the Tandoor, these were cooked in the magnificent Yadgar Masala. The Spice Level of the Masala was decidedly above the norm.

It’s making my eyeballs sweat – claimed Graeme, tears?

The Chops were huge, thick, chunky, and as Tender as one could ever hope for. I have seen venues of late trying to served two Lamb Chops for around £15.00, the £32.00 charged for a kilo at Yadgar suddenly feels way too little. Marg was amused by the quantity of Masala surrounding Graeme’s lips. There’s only one way to eat Lamb Chops, why hold back? 

Shkoor brought a plate for the debris, it was then time for him to make his exit.  A second stomach is the only extra Shkoor could conceivably have provided. At least we wouldn’t have to play the game of declining Dessert! Our thanks as always.

Not all of the Meat was Chops, Sucky Bones were in the mix also, it was here that I started, experience. How Chef achieves this intensity of Flavour in the Masala remains a great secret. One can see the abundant Tomato Seeds, there’s nothing in the Yadgar spice cupboard that surely isn’t in mine? This was indulgence, one should not have this too often, keep it special.

Aloo Gobi

Another Yadgar classic. I assured Kath that the Flavour in the Masala was remarkably close to that in the Karahi. Again one asks, how is this possible? To watch others have this and not partake, such discipline, writes the man who was gorging on Lamb.

Daal

As good as yours – said Kath to Graeme. Graeme’s doesn’t come with a mass of fresh Coriander on top.

Alloo Baengan

First had when Shkoor added bonus Yadgar Fayre during last year’s Lockdown, one has to accept the mushiness of the Aubergine. However, there was Potato in there too, plus the Masala. All was not lost. The Eggplant went north to fight another day.

Chana Masala

Grind the Chickpeas and serve them as Falafel, then Hector will bite your hand off. The Texture of this Vegetable does not sit well on the Hector palate. Chickpeas in small doses therefore, but it wasn’t me who was having this.

The ladies were emphatic that all that remained was not down to a lack of enjoyment, but being full. Both would happily have stopped eating after the Starters. Maybe next time no Starters? However, as I write, I’m tempted to go back to Yadgar soonest and just have Starters!

The Bill

£45.00 The imaginary number Naveed had been instructed to charge. Four Chapattis in Aberdoom would have been more than a quarter of this, same again for the Drinks. The staff were looked after.

The Aftermath

Graeme and Kath gave a few words to describe the experience:

Generosity – was mentioned more than once. They appreciated that a lot of food had been presented, and that knowing Hector has its privileges.

Home cooking at its best, wholesome flavoursome, authentic, attentive, hospitable host, no frills, homely.

Understated, lovely, really enjoyed it.

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Edinburgh – Cilantro – By Invitation

Following the review of Bo’ness Spice back in November, Hector and Marg have been invited to visit another Curry House. My thanks once more to Scott and Julia Thornton of – Hotel PR – for making it so. Today it was Cilantro (4 Albert Pl, Edinburgh EH7 5HN), sister restaurant to Bo’ness Spice, and open only a matter of weeks. Cilantro – as anyone who has ever consulted an Indian Cookbook knows, is the Spanish/American for Coriander.

After a first ever visit to Ocean Terminal in Leith, our walk back to the northern periphery of the Capital would have us arrive early for the scheduled 17.30 appointment. A quick phone call to Cilantro, and Shami, our host for the visit, confirmed we could arrive fifteen minutes early, and that we were expected.

Introductions complete, apparently I look like a – Hector –  we were given the window seat in the otherwise empty premises. Early days yet, though Shami confirmed that of the many who have stopped to read the menu posted in the window, some have returned forthwith. Passing trade is presently not helped by the ongoing tram line extension. Northbound traffic is being rerouted away from Leith Walk.

Marg enquired as to the meaning of – Cilantro. As Shami translated, so he must have realised that at home, Hector does the cooking.

Bijou and contemporary – may best describe Cilantro. I assumed the wooden wall décor to be faux until Marg pointed out, no, this was the real thing. Cilantro seats eighteen. A BYOB system is in operation.

Shami brought the menu, he stated that there are similarities to that which we had seen at Bo’ness Spice. Whilst Prawn Curry is available at Cilantro, I spotted no Fish  which certainly had been enjoyed at Bo’ness Spice. I outlined our usual model of no Starters, and that we would share a Vegetable Side. By ordering the three Dishes we would cover a greater cross section of the menu. The avoidance of Soupy Curry and Capsicum was relayed also. Shami assured me that the Masala at Cilantro would have genuine substance and that I should avoid the Jalfrezie.

And so Poppadoms and Chutneys were declined, two 500ml Bottles of Sparkling Water were brought as Shami mentioned the BYOB possibility. I believe he was amused when I declared – if I’m out for Curry I’ll have Curry, when I’m out for Bier, I’ll have Bier. So it goes.

At Bo’ness, Marg had Rogon Fish, Shatkora Lamb for Hector, plus the shared Aloo Gobi Massallum. Hector’s plan was to have something different, Marg had other ideas. The description of the Shatkora Lamb (£12.95) had her won, admittedly it was Hector who ordered this at Bo’ness Spice.

Working from the back of the menu, Special Rice (£4.50) features Egg and Peas, interesting. Achari Aloo (£6.95) – Pieces of marinated potato cooked in a tantalising pickle masala, garnished with whole green chillies & fresh cilantro leaves – should add the dynamic of a truly – Interesting Vegetable. A Naan (£3.75) would complete the Order, but what was Hector to have for the main course?

Achari Gosht (£11.95) would have been a worthy choice, however, the joy of Pickle was now taken care of. From the list of – Cilantro’s Specialities – this left the Hector with either Karai Gosht (£11.95) or Sag Gosht (£11.95). With regards to the Karai Gosht, Shami confirmed that the unwelcomed – Green Peppers – could be withheld. I refrained from asking why they were there in the first place, nice Hector. Was the Sag GoshtMasala with Herb – or – Herb with Masala? Shami’s answer tended towards the latter. Karai Gosht, above medium Spice was agreed, medium for the rest.

The inside back page of the menu points out that Cilantro is not a fast food restaurant, our wait would be appropriate. Cilantro also suggest that Takeaways should be collected rather than delivered – to maintain the highest quality and freshness. This I totally support, I cannot comprehend why people are happy to have their food delivered, and suffer the consequent delays which form the basis of the majority of online complaints.

I had time to show Shami the list of Curry Houses reviewed in Edinburgh. Today makes ten, whereas, in Glasgow, the total exceeds a hundred. Chains aside, I believe there are only three venues I have not visited in my home city. The international coverage of Curry-Heute was outlined. The mention of the wonder that is Punjabi Curry in Athena was appreciated. Shami mentioned a special arrangement to have people move from India to Hellas/Greece. Time to eat.

The Special Rice immediately impressed. Two fresh Herbs, including – Cilantro – topped the generous portion. Finely chopped Onions were in the mix also. There was clearly enough here to share. On tasting, it became apparent that the Special Rice would stand up as a Dish in its own right. The Seasoning here was spot on, more on this below.

The Naan had been quartered, this always ruins the impact that a whole Bread can create, however, it would never have fitted on the table otherwise. With a decent girth and burnt extremities, the Naan proved to be substantial, also both light and fluffy. The Naan at Bo’ness Spice was thinner and suited Marg’s preference, today’s Naan was what the Hector seeks. I think we both knew at this point that we would be embarrassed at the end of the meal, food would be left. I advise anyone visiting Cilantro not to overdo the Rice and Bread order.

Karai Gosht

Hector the Herbalist is concluding that the second Herb present today was – Watercress. This formed part of the toppings along with Ginger Strips and copious sliced Green Chillies. The toppings were abundant, for a brief moment – Manchester Curry – came to mind, we had – foliage!

Beneath, lay a suitably Thick Masala, the quality was self evident. Normally one would eat a Karahi Gosht with Bread, possibly straight from the actual karahi. Today there was Rice, decanting was mandatory. I counted the standard eight pieces of Meat, however, it soon became apparent how large each piece was. On eating there were further subdivisions, near endless Meat, was noted. A more than substantial portion.

With Whole Green Chillies embedded in the Masala, there was an instant – kick – before the Flavours from the Masala could be ascertained. The Seasoning was below the Hector idyll, however, this was where the Special Rice imposed its presence. From here came that little bit extra which brought out the Flavours from the Masala, now we had a Karahi Gosht!

The quality of the Lamb astonished (us both!), this was beyond Tender, super-soft. As always, praise to the Chef who can take Lamb this close, but not have it turn to pulp.

Also mixed through the Masala were sizeable pieces of Onion, but thankfully far from the dreaded Big Onion Blobs. Had I not asked for the Peppers to be withheld, I can only speculate as to what might might have been presented. The Onions were manageable.

Loadsa melt in the mouth Lamb, a sensible ratio of Masala to Meat, the foliage, all the components of a worthy Karahi Gosht. None would be left, however, this was at the expense of doing justice to the impressive Naan. Hector has his limits, and there was still the Vegetable Side to deal with.

Note, absolutely  nothing – runny – on the above plate!

Achari Aloo

The two Herb topping maintained. The Masala, smothering the large pieces of Potato, at first looked similar to that of the Karahi. However, Tomatoes had been cooked through also. Add to this the finely chopped Carrots (?) which would prove to be the source of the Pickle element, and here was quite an array of Vegetables, a complex Masala. That there was such a quantity of Masala maybe took me by surprise. Bombay Potato for example would have none, Aloo Gobi appreciably less, this was a veritable Potato Curry. In recent times Curry-Heute has been celebrating the humble Potato, its versatility truly recognised. Marinated Potato – even better, the ability to absorb Flavours in the way that say, Chicken doesn’t, has been oft reported.

The palate had to adapt from the Flavours of the Karahi. On striking the Achari motherlode, here it was, the Big Pickle Blast, delightful! Marinated Potato – this was everything I had hoped for, nay, more. Good as the Karahi Gosht was, this Achari Aloo was simply bursting with Flavour. Hector loves an Achari, prior to today, always with Meat. Achari Aloo, a first, looking for this on menus in time to come should become a matter of course, especially as today, when available as a – Side. This – discovery – was certainly the highlight of the meal, for Hector at least. Marg had taken but a Soupcon, all the more coming my way.

Shatkora Lamb

Once again, the twin Herb garnish topped the blended Masala. This Masala was possibly even more viscous than those above. Normally, I would have sneaked a taste, however, having thoroughly enjoyed this creation at Bo’ness Spice, I let Marg savour the moment. This would be Marg’s first encounter of the bitter, citrus Shatkora Fruit.

As highlighted above, Marg was immediately impressed by the Tenderness of the Lamb. This was the first time that Marg has ever had a Curry with a significant – Citrus – presence. That she would go on to clear her plate says it all, but here are some more words, regardless:

A good portion of very tender lamb, complemented with the citrus rind. Full of flavour, and went well with the Special Rice.

The Naan was very soft, the Achari was a new addition for me.

Shami had been most attentive throughout our sumptuous feast. He studied our progress and accepted our apology for the Rice and Bread which had to be abandoned. Whilst Marg enjoyed a Coffee, Hector finished the Sparkling Water.

The Aftermath

My thanks to Mohammed, proprietor of both Bo’ness Spice and Cilantro, for extending invitations to review both establishments. One day I’ll get to meet Mohammad, maybe next time?

One final Curry-Heute ritual had to be completed, the customary photo.

 

2022 Menu

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York – Rafi’s Spicebox – Madras Curry Kit

It was back in January when Marg and Hector stumbled upon Rafi’s Spicebox (17 Goodramgate, York YO1 7LW England). I had known of Rafi’s existence for approaching twenty years but assumed it had gone. Since 2017 there is a second shop in Leeds. One can of course order online.

Curry Kits, they have to be better than buying a sauce from a jar, surely? One has to accept that the price is over the odds for the Spice mix. For those without a Spice cupboard, maybe they make sense. I purchased three: Madras, Rogan Josh and Kashmiri. That it has taken six months to open the first, might be testimony to the array of Herbs and Spices in Hector’s House, also, not much Curry has been cooked at home this year.

A tin of Tomatoes and Fresh Coriander were the only items that had to be purchased to make the Curry Kit, adding Sugar did feel – wrong.

The bulk of the package was Crispy Fried Onions, since I first encountered these, they been added to everything. Every home needs copious quantities of these instant Onions. Rafi’s own choice of Spices and their respective ratios would define success or failure.

On emptying the contents, I was surprised to find a large Red Dried Chilli. I was tempted to add more, these I believe are the root towards creating that South Indian – Smokey – Flavour which I love. No, I’d follow the instructions as printed.

A kilo of solids was required. With some defrosted, uncooked Chicken Breast to use, I decided to risk my reputation and add this, however, 750g was Potatoes (par-boiled) Courgette, Peas and Mushrooms. I’m calling it – Vegetable Madras, with Chicken.

300ml of Water was not a lot. The Masala thickened quickly to create something I would aim for, i.e. – not Soup.

Season and garnish with coriander leaves. Is that – season, then garnish – or an implication that cooking the Coriander in acts as – Seasoning? I added no Salt. I did add some frozen Methi, my only departure from how I interpreted the instructions. With Marg up north for a couple of days, this would do me for two nights, hopefully.

Rice would accompany, a sensible portion, of course.

Vegetable Madras, with Chicken

The Vegetables were all cooked to perfection, especially the Potatoes! As ever, the Chicken added nothing to the overall experience. The Spice Level was moderate, a few extra Chillies would have done this Curry no harm. If – Madras – was meant as a rung on the Spice ladder, it had failed.  At least it wasn’t sweet.

Season and garnish with coriander leaves. I soon realised that Salt should have been added. Too late for this meal, tomorrow is another day. Before washing up, I added a good teaspoon of Salt. We’ll see what tomorrow brings.

The overnight aroma in the house reminded me of something from my childhood when a – Curry fix – was required: Vesta! They were pretty horrible.

Day 2

Ah, much better! The Potato had absorbed the Flavours from the Masala. Potato Curry, I should serve this and test Marg’s reaction. The Seasoning made all the difference, this was a much more satisfying Curry, but not wonderful.

The Curry Kit meant that the initial preparation time was significantly reduced. The pre-cooked Onions making the difference. Next time, I’ll add more Chillies, and some Fresh Ginger to add more bite. The overnight infusion certainly enhanced the experience.

 

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Glasgow – Murphy’s Pakora Bar – The Menu

Murphy’s Pakora Bar (1293 Argyle St., Glasgow G3 8TL) is back!  And it’s located metres from the original premises in the former Green Chilli Cafe. Pakora – is as Scottish as Chicken Tikka Masala, England have their Onion Bhaji, the latter of course is meaningless.

Today, I post the menu. When I eventually visit, time will tell. The 16.00 opening is too late for Hector’s preferred dining model, also closed on Mondays.

If one made a night of it, as a – bar –  there’s little that suits Hector’s discerning palate, Budvar may have to do.

In a departure from version #1, Small Portions and Curry have been added to the extended menu. Desi Lamb (£10.00) will have to be sampled.  The small print mentions – Curry creations from the people behind the Ashoka Cookschool.  One assumes therefore that Pakora Bar remains part of the Harlequin group which is famed for Ashoka. People have been telling me of late of good experiences at various Ashoka. The Ashoka chain may be worth further investigation.  Hector is listening.

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Glasgow – Mela 2022 – Kelvingrove Park + West End Update

Mela on a wet Sunday afternoon in Glasgow, not the best of conditions for the outdoor festival at Kelvingrove Park. So it goes.

We took in some of the entertainment before getting down to the real purpose of our visit. Last time I enjoyed a late afternoon Lamb Curry courtesy of Shangreela (Huddersfield) who were back again. This time I would try the same fayre but from the adjacent stall – Red Cherry (Manchester). Manchester Curry in Glasgow? It had to be.

Beforehand, as promised last week at G-RAF, we went in search of Babu – Bombay Street Kitchen.

Having been a mere eight days since we stood beside each other at the Glasgow Real Ale Festival, Hector was of course recognised. Marg ordered Vegetable Pakora (£7.00). With no seating at the van, the nearby fountain provided a suitable bench.

There was brief respite from the rain.

Eight pieces of Pakora for £7.00, not the value for money that is Delhi Darbar (Dumbarton) where up to thirty pieces of Pakora have been served in a single portion. (Not posted, but this number was reached on my most recent Pakora Takeaway.)

The freshly made Pakora at the much missed Akash (Helensburgh) has set the standard. Sadly, Babu’s Vegetable Pakora was way overdone, the outside giving the appearance of multiple reheats. The inside, however, was suitably Spiced and tasty. Not the best, it does put me in mind to make my own Pakora once more. My creamy Yoghurt Dip is also something to behold.

There were multiple queues at Red Cherry. Marg stood in the longest whilst I verified that the shorter queues were for those with Mela tokens. Who gets these? I could see no price list, how were they getting away with this? Annoyingly, Red Cherry was – cash only. Whilst Marg gave the Order,  I was able to photograph the goings on.

The mountain of Chicken Tikka was the attraction for many. All the various permutations were on display along the front of the stall. This was a major waste of food. That the famous Manchester Rice & Three was present could well be the only time this has appeared in Glasgow.

Marg nearly ordered Chana Chat, I talked her out of it. She settled for a Meat Samosa and a Kashmiri Tea. For Hector, Lamb Curry with Pilao. The young chap serving first offered Salad on top of the Curry then a choice of bottled sauce. No thanks. There was no – foliage – on offer. Babu at least had Coriander.

The Bill

£19.00 eh? The young chap serving then reconfirmed what he had given us.

£14.50, however he brought £6.50 change from twenty.

Lamb Curry

It was chucking it down. Tables had been arranged under the supposed tree cover. We found a stehplatz at a table. With food in one hand and umbrella in the other, how does one eat? Marg took over umbrella duty, she could eat and hold the brolly.

I know nothing about the Tea or Samosa, there was Curry to be devoured.

There was more Pilau than Curry, here we go again. Suffice to say, the Rice had absorbed all of the Shorva from the Curry leaving a suitably Dry Curry, in the Hector style. The first taste confirmed that this was from Manchester, the telltale blast of Clove. There were no Whole Spices in the Curry. Apart from the Lamb, Peas were the only other solids, these were mixed through the Rice.

The plentiful Meat ranged from Tender to a bit Chewy. More Masala would have been welcome, with no foliage to add Diversity, this was very much Meat and Rice. Inheriting a chair, I had to eat as quickly as possible. Still the drips came, pouring off the edge of the umbrella. This was hardly in the spirit of – al fresco – dining.

Curry for the masses, enjoyable, Cloves aside, nothing special. I doubt if I will be heading to down to Levenshulme for more. The Manchester Curry Mile is not what it may have been. For Desi Curry, the Northern Quarter and Cheetham Hill Rd. are where to head.

There was Ice Cream to follow. The machine did not say – Taylor – or – Carpigiani – this was second rate Ice Cream.

Having parked near the back of the Kelvin Hall, we passed the former Banana Leaf, now rebranded as Madhras Dosa, the shutters were up. The Chef who has served me over the years assured me that as of next month, they will open at lunchtime. Their present hours do not suit my eating model, nor do those at the reincarnation of Murphy’s Pakora Bar. Having recorded the menu at both venues, perhaps a separate post is better than adding to the end of this one?

Madhras Dosa

Murphy’s Pakora Bar

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Glasgow – Madhras Dosa – The Menu

Today I established that Madhras Dosa ((76B, Old Dumbarton Rd, Glasgow, G3 8RE) should start opening at lunchtimes again as of next month (July 2022). I have emailed whoever to verify this. As and when this happens, I might actually get to eat in this rebranded version of Banana Leaf.

Meanwhile, I post the menu, the spirit of Banana Leaf certainly lives on. However, having taken years to establish that a Dry Curry was possible here – Lamb Chukka – it has gone!

If one enjoys the distinctive flavours of South Indian Cuisine, this informal setting is definitely recommended.

 

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Glasgow – Bombaywalla – Indian Street Kitchen – Sukka again!

On Monday, the plan was to take Marg to Bombaywalla – Indian Street Kitchen (186 West Regent St, Glasgow, G2 4RU) in order to sample the Keema Matar (£11.50). Alas, Bombaywalla is closed on Mondays. Consequently, Marg had possibly the best Keema Aloo she has ever experienced at nearby Curry Cottage.

We arrived today at Bombaywalla at 14.45, Sijin, Mein Host was absent. I would later establish that the Chef was not the chap I have seen on my previous three visits.

In order to enjoy a different perspective, I took a larger table on the far side. The restaurant was empty, our choice.

Marg asked for a large bottle of Sparkling Water. We were presented with two 330ml bottles of Still. Not only had the chap not understood our request, he had opened and partly poured the contents of each bottle into glasses. Not what we wanted, a jug would have done. At least the water tasted better than Glasgow’s tap water, as in, there was none. Bombaywalla operate a free BYOB policy can one bring a large bottle of Sparkling Water?

For Hector, today it had to be the Lamb Sukka (£11.95), a Curry that was a test of endurance when had last visit. A Malabar Poratta (£2.95) would accompany. This would be the much sought after – White Paratha. I only know three other venues in Glasgow which serve this.

Marg, who was having a dinner out this evening, decided to have a Frankie Wrap – Minced Lamb & Green Peas (£6.95). Hopefully, this would reveal the efficacy of the Keema Matar and not be too filling.

*

*

The wait was appropriate, plenty of time to take photos from a different perspective. There was no conversation with the chap, his English was clearly not up to it.

Frankie Wrap – Minced Lamb & Green Peas

A substantial Wrap, accompanied by a simple Salad and a Mint Sauce. Marg identified the other contents beyond simple Mince and Peas:

A good size, full of minced lamb and peas with extra salad, especially onions inside. A good spice level, with a small salad. The mint dip was not used.

Across the table, Hector was having something completely different. The Paratha was as hoped for in terms of texture. But why so small? The temptation to immediately order another was overcome, I probably wouldn’t have finished two. I certainly wasn’t about to part with another £2.95. The Paratha should be larger, appreciably so.

Still, a White Paratha, glorious!

Lamb Sukka

In discussion with “Babu” at G-RAF last week, she confirmed that – Sukka – means – Dry. A Dry, Thick, Minimal Masala is of course Hector’s ideal Curry. Last time, the Spice Level was beyond – Vindaloo – the Seasoning off the scale. Surely that had not been the intention?

Topped with a mere sprinkling of Coriander, a whole Green Chilli protruded from the mass. I decided to decant to the plate, I didn’t count the Meat there was certainly enough. The knowledge that this could be another testing experience was foremost in my mind.

The Big Spice was there, the whole Green Chillies were set aside, enough. The Seasoning was taking no prisoners but not as extreme as before. This Curry had it all. The South Indian Flavours were to the fore. Marg had a Soupçon and remarked on the intensity of the Flavours. She has only tasted this level of Smokiness in the Chettinad as served at our favourite München Curry House – Indian Mango.

The Lamb was beautifully Tender. With minimal Bread, my custom of scooping the Masala with Paratha and eating the Meat alone, was the only option today. Maybe this Curry would also work with Rice. Even a share of the Masala Rice (£2.75) would work.

Coconut is not an ingredient I rush towards. However, a decidedly pleasant toasted Coconut was coming across. I am becoming used to this, it worked.

In terms of being a test, this time I passed. Today’s Lamb Sukka was moderate in comparison to last month’s, maybe it could be reined in a bit more. A remarkable Curry, certainly one I shall return to in the future, time will tell.

The Bill

£25.75 The price of Soft Drinks is not on the menu. Having been charged £1.95 for each of the unwanted bottles of Still Water, there was no tip.

The Aftermath

No Sijin, no chat.

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