Apart from the masses who were at the King’s Theatre today to see Mama Mia, the stage-show of the movie, actually a remake of – Buona Sera, Mrs. Campbell – starring Gina Lollobrigida and Phil Silvers, Glasgow was empty on this fine, sunny day. The Meteorological summer has begun, we just need the weather to maintain this.
Bombaywalla – Indian Street Kitchen (186 West Regent St, Glasgow, G2 4RU) finds itself in the perfect locus for Hector on a Saturday afternoon, when time does not permit a trip to the Southside for Curry. Blythswood Square looked stunning in the bright sunshine and blue sky, a pity the peripheral trees made photography difficult.
It was a somewhat tardy 15.30 when Hector walked down the stairs into Bombaywalla. Both Sijin, Mein Host, and Chef were in the dining area. Chef was finishing his lunch. Self restraint was shown, the temptation to rush over and photograph other people’s food is always in the back of one’s mind.
Good to see you again – I have identified as Sijin’s customary greeting. I took a table, one to the right of my previous two visits. Having enjoyed the Lamb Kolhapuri (£11.95) on Visit #1, it was time to try the other Lamb Curry – Keema Matar – (£11.50), however, ever alert, I spotted a third Lamb Curry on the menu: Lamb Sukka (£11.95).
Yes, the menu has been expanded since Visit #2 when I had the Seabass Malabar (£11.95). The description of the – Sukka – wasn’t giving much away. I asked about the Masala, this would determine Rice or Bread. The Masala was duly described as – dark and thick – … this sounded like a Hector Curry! The antithesis of that had yesterday at Darbar Grill. A Naan (£2.75) would accompany.
Both the Seabass Malabar and the Lamb Kolhapuri are firmly in the – Soupy – classification of Curry. When the Flavours are there, I can accept the style. In terms of Flavour, the Curry experienced at Bombaywalla has been of the South Indian variety. This I find is a good break from my customary Punjabi Karahi.
Sijin and I chatted whilst Chef got busy. It sounds as if business is building at Bombaywalla, the surrounding hotels are a reliable source of custom. As for the office trade, lunchtimes are when they are expected, hopefully this will grow markedly in the months to come.
I studied the menu further, one day I shall have to come and not have Curry. Fish Cutlets (£6.95) shall certainly form the base of any such meal.
Sijin brought the food. The quartered Naan was immediately forgiven. Just look at those blisters. This Naan was remarkably light, fluffy, and had more risen pockets than I have ever seen. Inevitably there would be the temptation to overdose on Bread, as if. Sijin told me that many would have Paratha with a Sukka. The Malabar Porotta (£2.95) will have to be tried, if it’s the too rare White Paratha, Hector will be in raptures.
Lamb Sukka
As promised, this was the Dry, Thick Curry Hector seeks. I chose to eat from the bowl so there no Meat count. As I would come to realise, there was loads.
Whilst the Lamb Kolhapuri made a definite nod towards the South Indian Chettinad, this Lamb Sukka was right there. The – smokiness – hit the palate, was this it, the ultimate Dry, Smoky Lamb Curry? Can they do this with Fish?
The Spices were there, including presumably, a swathe of the dry Red Chillies to create the South Indian/Chettinad experience. I could see whole Green Chillies plus the listed Curry Leaves. I am not a fan of describing Spice Levels using the Madras/Vindaloo standard. This was Vindaloo+. Do not order this unless you can cope.
As for the Seasoning, here we go. If there was a Hector Scale of Seasoning ranging from – non-existent – through – fine – to – brave, then this was – Brave+. If one cannot handle – Well-seasoned Curry – do not order this.
The Meat was beautiful, Soft only begins to describe its Tenderness. Relatively large pieces of Onion were cooked in with the Masala. I resorted to my usual alternating Bread with Masala, straight Meat. As feared, I ate way more Bread than my capacity would tolerate. Everything here was simply magnificent. Hector was being tested: Spice, Smokiness, Seasoning, Quantity, I decided to eat one of the whole Green Chillies, the Curry Leaves were set aside. Can one digest these?
There followed a lot of nose blowing, this was hitting the spot, an absolute killer of a Curry. My pleasure was conveyed to Sijin.
Despite the Lamb being seemingly endless, only a Soupçon of the Masala had to be left along with the discarded Curry Leaves and a whole Black Cardamom, encountered the way one hopes not to. I hope this Lamb Sukka does not disappear from the menu. I’ll be back for more.
A couple, known to Sijin, arrived towards the end of my visit. Between them they ordered the Fish Cutlets and the Lamb Sukka. A pity I couldn’t hang about to observe.
The Bill
£14.70 We’re in – the heart of the City.
The Aftermath
Afterwards, I was able to check online what a Sukka is. It sounds remarkably similar to the equally dry – Chukka – once enjoyed at Banana Leaf, now Madhras Dosa. Surely it’s about time Madhras Dosa opened before 17.00, who eats that late?