Harrogate – Jinnah Restaurant – A Monday Night Curry

Harrogate? Marg and Hector appear to be repeating January 2022 in reverse. This is the final stop, fourth night only, feels like a week already. Bettys Tearoom was visited once again, the most expensive Tea in the North, possibly. There Marg had lunch, Hector was saving the appetite for real food.

Had it not been a Monday, Hector’s choice for Harrogate Curry would once again have been Shalimar. Whilst I was not convinced as to the efficacy of the – Afghani – element of their – Afghani Karahi – as a – Karahi – it certainly impressed.

If it’s a Monday in Harrogate, then maybe it has to be Jinnah Restaurant (32 Cheltenham Parade, Harrogate HG1 1DB England). Authentic Kashmiri Cuisine – is their tagline, however, under the classification – Medium Homestyle Specialities – they too serve Lamb Afghani (£12.95). A Curry fit for Royalty, allegedly. It had to be established if this Dish was fit for a Hector.

I note that the Curry immediately above it on the menu is – Nawabi Khana – the Curry I chose last night at International (Bradford). The menu here also quotes – twenty one – as being a key number of Spices/ingredients. A quick look at T’internet, and this appears to be a common thread, a case of chuck in every Spice in the cupboard?

We arrived at Jinnah, a converted kirk, at 18.30. Can kirks be converted or just their parishioners? Correspondingly, the venue is huge.

A large group occupied half of the central seating area, we were led up to the right, to the rear of a line of booths. Jinnah must seat well over a hundred, tonight we were around forty. Impressive for a Monday, but then Shalimar was closed today.

Marg would have a Prawn Puri (£5.95), Hector’s choice of accompaniment was a Plain Nan (£2.95). A 750ml bottle of Harrogate Sparkling Water (£5.50) completed the Order. Pricey water, had it come far?

The service was efficient, the chap seemed a bit surprised when we were ready to order so quickly. Having the Puri arrive at the same time as the Afghani was requested.

Arrive together they did, and a bit too quickly for my liking. Having watched and waited for authentic Afghan Karahi being prepared in Glasgow at both Khyber Pass Restaurant and Namak Mandi, it cannot be done in ten to fifteen minutes.

The Naan, which looks here like a magic carpet, had the suitable burnt blisters, was sufficiently risen, and was nearly devoured in its entirety. A decent Naan.

Prawn Puri

With the Prawns well into double figures, and a suitably viscous Masala, this was a classic Puri. Well, the actual Puri was sufficiently large to make a meal in its own right. Who would have this as a Starter followed by a Main Course?

I must have a go at making a Puri. Given that the Bread is fried, my lack of skill on a Tawa would not be a hindrance.

*

Lamb Afghani

That the contents only half filled the pot was the first negative observation. The garnish included the dreaded Capsicum, this time in Red. Just how much of this lay below? I discarded a couple of strips, the remainder appeared to be Ginger Strips, Onion and Tomato. This Curry had very much the appearance of a Jalfrezi.

I had the choice, decant so that I could count the Meat and better see the Masala, or eat directly from the pot and hopefully keep the food hot/warm. It’s January, I chose the latter. It was also dimly lit where we sat, so I could not see the Masala initially. At least I could tell it was not – Soupy.

Tomato was the standout Flavour at the start, a low level of Seasoning disappointed. The Spice Level was quoted as – medium – it certainly was. The Lamb was suitably Tender and the ratio of Meat to Masala was equitable. The traditional Bread accompaniment was the correct choice.

I waited, hoped for, that distinct Flavour which sets Afghani Cuisine apart from my commonly devoured Punjabi interpretation. Charsi – this was not. As with Shalimar, I have to ask in what was this an Afghan Curry?

The underlying Flavour was decidedly familiar. Oftentimes I recognise, but cannot identify. Tonight it quickly dawned on me, this was a very much in the style of Rogan Josh served in the decades before it became a Creamier Curry. A watered down Rogan Josh – was added to my notes.

Determined to examine the Masala further, with a bit of balancing, I managed to secure a photo on the new Oppo. The Masala was Thicker than I had previously realised, redder too, Tomato-based? As I looked across the table to the Prawn Puri, I could not see much difference between the two Red Masalas. Hopefully there was.

When Neil introduced me to Rogan Josh around 1980, it became the go-to Curry for many years. I therefore enjoyed tonight’s Curry for how it actually tasted, not for what it was meant to be.

I feel a return visit to one of Glasgow’s Afghan Restaurants is imminent.

Marg enquired about milky coffee, only filter was on offer, declined.

The Bill

£27.35

The Aftermath

On receipt of the Calling Card, the waiter did not show much reaction. It was clearly not passed up the chain to a superior. As we departed, he did say he was looking forward to reading my review. Well, here it is!

2023 Menu

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Bradford – International – 3½ Years of The Next Generation

The first/only Bradford Curry of the day was at 23.00? Back in the day, this could well have been the third. The distraction was Sunday lunch at Old Gate in Hebden Bridge, there the roast beef dinner is to be recommended. A worthy plateful, featuring Yorkshire pudding, of course, lashings of gravy, plus mash, roast potatoes, mashed turnip, sage&onion, green beans, cauliflower, broccoli and mange tout. Hector will admit to having none of the latter, Marg ate it all.

An afternoon enjoying the delights of Halifax followed, thereafter a train back to Bradford. From Bradford Interchange, it was straight to International (40-42 Morley Street, Bradford, BD7 1BA). For a significant time, we were the only customers. What has happened in this city? As midnight approached, two groups of diners arrived, more like it.

The lack of custom meant a lot of staff not doing very much. Quasim would look after us. A bit like last night at Sheesh Mahal where Hector had but a Starter, Marg was only hungry enough for something similar, not a main course. Lamb Chops (£6.95) and a Mango Lassi (£2.75) would be her limit. The Lassi was justified thus:

I’ve got to watch you eat a whole Curry. I’ve got to make it enjoyable as I can.

For the record, a small bottle of Sparkling Water is £2.50, so one may as well indulge in Lassi.

Hector required a Curry which ticked all the boxes. This could well be my last opperchancity on this trip to have the full bhuna. A well known and reliable Curry Blog led me back to Lamb Nawabi Khan (£12.95), tried and tested.

I did briefly consider the Desi Lamb (on-the-bone) option, but a half kilo at £17.95 could prove to be too much Curry. I do congratulate International for holding the full kilo to £27.95, it’s a fiver more than this anywhere I have encountered in recent times.

To complete the Order, a Garlic Coriander Naan (£3.50), Tap Water was also promised.

We played the Poppadom game.

Are you giving or selling?

The result no Poppadoms. Under the previous management, Complimentary – everything – was the norm, inclusive Chapattis/Naan/Rice also. One could go across the street to The Kashmir Restaurant where these traditions have been maintained. Perhaps that’s where the rest of Bradford was this evening? I have not had an evening Curry at Kashmir since I taught A-Level Geography. Bradford was en route, my choice, to the locus of the in-service days held near York. That was some twenty five years ago. 

We had asked for all the food to arrive simultaneously, inevitably, the Lamb Chops arrived first.

Lamb Chops

Five! Sensational value. And they were nearly cremated. In a moment of sensibility, I declined a Lamb Chop, unheard of. Who wants to become Mr. Creosote? This meant five Lamb Chops for Marg, which must be discouraged, however, the precedent has been set.

Five, succulent Chops, with carbon-infused bones. I thoroughly enjoyed gnawing my way through the meat and bone.

I also enjoyed the Garlic & Coriander Naan accompaniment.

Yes Hector’s Curry and Naan had arrived. I invited Marg to help herself to some Naan, I didn’t think I would have to claim dibs on the final scraps. The Naan was a decent size, or so I originally thought. The burnt blisters were present. It had risen a bit but not enough to put Marg off. There was no Garlic saturation which is what I fear.

At this point, Quasim noticed we had no Water on the table and that the Mango Lassi had not appeared. Cancel the Lassi, Water was quickly provided.

Lamb Nawabi Khana

The Coriander Topping was but a threat. The karahi was filled to the brim with an inestimable quantity of Bradford-sized Meat. With just enough Masala to make this a – Curry – I emphasise that there was a lot of Meat here. Who needs a half kilo on-the-bone?

Cough! This hit the spot. With sliced Green Chillies cooked in, there was no denying, this was – Spicy! The distinctive Bradford Curry Taste was there, Methi is the ingredient which is believed to be responsible.

Two small slices of Lemon had also been added, these were squeezed on to the minimal Masala. A bit of Lemon can add even more of a thrill to the Flavours hitting the palate.

Tender Meat, it is written oft, this was something else. I gave Marg a piece for confirmation. The Lamb was super-soft yet far from being pulp.  Each piece retained the integrity of its shape, yet … one could have sucked this rather than chew. Squeezing between tongue and top palate was quite sufficient, mastication hardly required. Now add the appreciation that this Meat was permeable and had soaked in the Flavours from the Masala. This is what people who order a Chicken Curry can never experience. The properties of this Curry made it stand out way above that which is served in Mainstream Restaurants.

Whilst this Curry was truly outstanding, my only regret is that, in time, the Chillies eventually numbed the palate. Subtle, this Curry was not. Prior to this, however, it was as if the individual Spice powders were shouting – here I am!

If one seeks a blunderbuss of Flavour and Spice, the Lamb Nawabi Khan has to be tried.

Quasim was back once more checking on our progress/enjoyment. I described the eating of the Meat. The conversation developed, no this was not our first visit etc.

That I do not give marks out of ten for either a Curry or a Curry House was finally accepted. Where is the best in Bradford? Well probably still not here, though once upon a time Hector had a near orgasmic moment in these very premises, ergo the best Curry I’ve ever had. I introduced myself, and mentioned the halcyon days of Khalid and Ali.

International was closed for some months in 2018. I made it clear that when The Next Generation took over, the quality of the Fayre nosedived. Standards have improved markedly in recent visits, though not always the service, as recorded last visit. There are some Dishes that are missed. We had just discovered Shahi Kofta when International closed. Scroll through the photographic record of all consumed here.

The Bill

£23.40       No Lassi, no tip.

The Aftermath

I believe the word had got round that a food blogger was present, smiles aplenty. I did insist that there was a photo with Quasim. It is time to record The Next Generation making their mark.

There is now a second International, but not within walking distance of the city centre.

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Bradford – The Kashmir Restaurant – 364 Days Later

And so to Bradford. I cannot believe it’s a year since the last visit. Why did nobody say – let’s have a trip to Bradford – in the course of 2022? Bradford for Curry, Halifax and Hebden Bridge for Bier, always a worthwhile experience.

We arrived at The Kashmir Restaurant (27 Morley St, Bradford BD7 1AG England) at 14.10. The usual chap smiled warmly as we entered the downstairs dining room, hands were shaken, he knew it has been a while. With our luggage parked at the far wall we took the corresponding seats, around half of the tables were otherwise occupied.

The laminated menu was brought, prices have gone up some 20% since my last visit, an increase comparable to what I have observed across the land in the last year. Curry in a Bradford Curry Cafe has now crossed the £10.00 barrier. Poppadoms (3), Raita and a modest Salad were brought in a flash, as Curry-Heute campaigns they should be in all restaurants.

Marg mentioned – Korma – which she must have spotted in a part of the menu I wasn’t looking at. Was it a – Desi Korma? Apparently – Cream and Coconut – were quoted, so no. The – Pineapple – in the Meat Dansak (£10.50) interested Marg. Different. Hector was here for Curry only – Fish Karahi (£11.90).

Three Chapattis are included with each main course. Six Chapattis? – a challenge. If one needs more, they’re 50p each.

Marg asked if the Meat was – Lamb.

Mutton was the reply. Marg asked for – medium. On asking for – above medium – I was told:

I’ll make it -Asian style – for you.

I must remember to ask for – Asian style – in all future visits to Bradford Curry Houses.

Complimentary Poppadoms always taste better than those where ridiculous prices are charged. The Raita stood out, a fair wee kick in there. The Onions I would later add to my Fish Karahi. I like the added crunch of fresh Onions. We managed two Poppadoms before the Curry arrived.

Six Chapattis, between us we would just about manage five. These were of the thin, traditional variety, which I prefer to the Wholemeal. These are merely more than vehicles of transferring food from plate to mouth.

*

*

Meat Dansak

This is a new Curry to add to the list of all those covered at Kashmir. There was more Masala than I associate with Bradford Curry. The Masala was distinctly dark brown. With Herbs mixed through, it was difficult to identify this Masala as containing – Lentils – especially when one compares it to their Keema Dahl.

There was a visible presence of (tinned) Pineapple stirred into the Meat and Masala, Marg likes – sweet – and so this was right up her street:

Very tender Lamb (Mutton), in a rich, strong flavoured sauce, minimal, with characteristic pieces of pineapple adding to the flavour. It was a lovely rich gravy, maybe – earthy.

I dipped my spoon in the Masala, fine as it was – nowhere near as intense as was on my plate.

Fish Karahi

The abundant flaked Fish sat in an oily Masala rich in Tomato. This too was relatively – wet – for a Bradford Curry, it’s how they do it here, and it certainly works.

The Fish, which seemed to go on forever, tasted of – Fish! The Masala tasted of – Fish. The Curry tasted of – Fish! This should be bleeding obvious, so why can so few venues across the land achieve this?

The Fish Karahi arrived – hot – again something one cannot take for granted. The Spice and Seasoning were commensurate with quality Curry. This week began with a Tapas portion of Kerala Monkfish in Glasgow, which was tasteless in comparison to this. At the end, the sense of Fish had permeated every taste bud. This was a Fish Karahi, a Bradford Fish Karahi!

The Bill

£22.40    Cash only.

The Aftermath

More smiles from the staff as we departed. They know we’ll come back, but when?

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Bradford – Sheesh Mahal – Meet The New Boys

Time was, a midnight Bradford Curry could be the first/last of three in a twenty four hour period. Maybe those days have gone for good, just as well. After the ritual Fish Karahi at Kashmir Restaurant this afternoon, the plan was to squeeze in one more. Two nights in Bradford only, so many favourite venues to get round, not possible.

When Mein Host at The Record Cafe declared a 22.00 closing tonight, Hector’s plans dissolved into disarray. Still not enough recovery time after a late lunch, and the explanation was something to do with being a Sunday and January. Chaps, we need a midweek trip to Bradford/Halifax in the warmer months.

It was 22.30 when we walked into Sheesh Mahal (6 St. Thomas’ Rd, Bradford, BD1 2RW). Westgate, next door, was derelict, in fact, even the signage had gone. So much for their renovation. There was no Taj, Omar or Amar, only young Abdul recognised us. Usman and Waqas would also be looking after us tonight.

Poppadoms were declined, twice, Raita and a Dip, whose recipe appears in Curry-Heute as – Pakora Sauce 2 – were brought in an instant. Despite pleading for no more, a comprehensive Salad still appeared. Such is the welcome at Sheesh Mahal.

So no Curry for Hector, something I have been tempted to do in Glasgow for some time was the fallback. Mix Grill Platter (£13.45) – a Meat Feast, and no need for unnecessary Rice/Bread. Surely, despite Marg saying she wasn’t hungry, she would have a nibble, or two, or three… To Share For 2 People – the menu informs. Marg thought this was OTT, but that would be my main/only course.

Marg not hungry? The Record Cafe’s crisps, almonds and olives had all been enjoyed. I fail to comprehend why Marg needs these distractions, surely watching Hector enjoy his Craft Beer should be stimulating enough of an evening? (emoticon understood)

Marg’s order – Kashmiri Tea (£2.60).

A Saturday night, and only two other customers. What has happened to the days when we were all crammed into the original, dungeon-like premises? Since the rebuild, I have never seen Sheesh Mahal this quiet at night.

Mix Grill Platter

Seekh Kebab both Chicken and Meat, Chicken Tikka Boti, Chicken Wings, Masala Fish and Lamb Chops! The Chicken Wings aside, Omar has probably tantalised the Hector with the remaining items in this list at some point previously.

The pile of Meat on the platter was huge, two of everything, perfect for sharing. Overall, there would only be one criticism: Hector likes his Meat cremated. However, succulence may then be lost. Tonight, everything was suitably hot and moist.

I started with the most familiar, the Seekh Kebab. Here was the opperchancity to confirm that Lamb always trumps Chicken, and of course it did. Spicy and Herb-rich, superb. The Lamb Chops, being relatively underdone, did not have the impact they could have had. But still, Lamb Chops, and Hector had both!

By this time it had become apparent that Marg was not going to assist, she would force me to devour all that lay before me. Hector was up for the challenge.

Nando’s! – was my exclamation when tackling the Chicken Tikka Boti. Tasty Chicken, but as ever, the added Spice and Flavouring were superficial. (which of course is why Nando’s provide bottled sauces to spice up the white meat)

Wetherspoon’s Chicken Wings are spicier than those served here. The best was kept to last. Omar presented Steve and Hector with Fish one evening, it was truly outstanding. Tonight, the Batter was a bit limp, but the Fish itself was – Wow! Thick chunks of Fishiness. For the second time today, Hector had been wowed by Fish. Why is that I have to come to Bradford to make it so?

The sad conclusion had to be admitted: having managed all this, I could have had a Curry.

The Bill

£16.05 My records show that a Mix Grill Platter in 2021 was only £10.95.

The Aftermath

Having observed the photography, Usman asked if I was a writer, I don’t think he was prepared for the introduction of Curry-Heute. He has only been at Sheesh Mahal for a couple of weeks. The Calling Card was distributed to all, time to make everyone famous.

I was also told that Westgate is relocating. Maybe a Bradford resident can advise as to where?

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Manchester – Kabana – One Cannot Improve Upon Perfection

Friday 13th, a good day to travel. Today trains were running to time, well almost. At least the trains were running. This is the annual weekend when IQ perform in Bury. Hector learned years ago not to stay in Bury, especially when a night in Manchester is the alternative.

A stay in Manchester, it is written that one starts at Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England). We waited until 14.00 to give time for the lunchtime rush to pass. Fridays are different, Kabana was stowed. Marg did manage to grab a table whilst Hector worked out who in the queue had been served and who was waiting otherwise. Rizwan, Mein Host, was busy assembling Orders for delivery. Whilst I waited, all staff behind the counter acknowledged my arrival bar one. The chap who clears the tables waved with – gusto.

For Hector, Karahi Lamb (£6.00), on-the-bone, with Rice (£1.50), always choice #1. Marg went for Keema Spinach (£6.00) with a Chapatti (£0.90). Marg was only too well aware that this was her first Spinach since the debacle in Köln at a Persian Restaurant – Zarathustra – last month. Hector faced up to Palak once again at Yadgar (Glasgow) last weekend.

As ever, when Rizwan served me, he said he would bring the food over himself. I was amused when he brought a plateful of the – foliage. For once Hector would not get to finish the Coriander.

Keema Spinach

No unnecessary Masala, and no visible Oil, this was as Dry a Keema as I have encountered, brave. With the Spinach mixed through the Mince, the appearance reminded me of Haggis. It’s that time of year.

Bread was the only possible accompaniment, there was sufficient moistness to complement a Chapatti, Rice would have killed it. The Chapatti, large, and of the Wholemeal variety, was hot, freshly made. Marg would eat nearly all of her Chapatti, way more than I would have managed. I could have exerted some influence and suggest she have a Naan. Naan at Kabana is a rare treat for Hector.

Marg got tucked in. What looked like a modest plate of Curry proved to be misleading. Remember, with no Masala to speak of, this was a solid mass.

A Soupçon did cross the table, more Seasoning was Hector’s take, but with Saag/Palak, maybe not required.

I think I need a break from spinach – was an early comment by Marg.

Too much of a good thing? – was my response.

Had this come to soon after Zarathustra?

A large portion of Keema with more spinach than I bargained for. A good kick, and a lovely Chapatti completed my main meal of the day.

Karahi Lamb

Rizwan brought the naked Curry. What a portion, – double figures – did not do the Meat count justice. It also made a mockery of the portion size and subsequent price of my last Curry at West End – Chaakoo (Glasgow) at the start of the week.

With the Karahi Lamb suitably – dressed – it was time to tear in.

Starting with the blended Masala and Rice there was an immediate kick and blast of Flavour. Cloves are the distinctive Manchester Spice, I would pick out a piece of Cinnamon Bark in due course.

Sucky Bones, their presence is always a sign of pedigree Curry. The Flavours were full on, a Curry that could be eaten every day. I’m sure some people do. I’ll keep using the term – Curry – one day Rizwan will explain why he thinks this is – Karahi. Maybe a hint of Yoghurt in the mix? Whatever, the Masala remains a delight, and the quality of the Lamb never fails to impress.

Plus ça change – I wrote in a certain social medium – one cannot improve upon perfection.

By 14.50, Kabana was relatively empty, however, the peace was disturbed. As we let our food digest, so an extraordinarily loud, local – character – entered, demanding well fired Lamb Chops. Character? Apparently he’s on YouTube.

I saw the Lamb Chops, if only I could manage these and a Curry.

The Bill

£15.40   On Monday, I paid more than this for about a tenth of the quantity of food, and today’s was way better.

The Aftermath

I advised Rizwan that – The Company – will be invading Manchester in ten days. He offered to cook – something special – but gave no clue as to what that might be.

Watch this space.

IQ – Bury

40+ years of Prog Nonsense

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Glasgow – West End – Chaakoo – Overpriced, Underwhelmed

On Saturday, Yvonne a regular diner at Chaakoo – Bombay Cafe in the city centre, informed me of a 40% January discount. Today, Hector took the opperchancity to make a first visit to their second outlet – West End – Chaakoo (61 Ruthven Ln, Glasgow G12 9BG).

Having looked online, the menu at both venues appears to be identical, Hector had Fish Curry in mind, a Dish not previously had at Chaakoo. One always hopes that it could be the best yet.

The Subway was off, in both directions, there was little choice other than to walk to Byres Rd. from Partick. Taking respite from the prolonged precipitation, and the numerous puddles in Ruthven Lane, I reached Chaakoo at 14.10. For the uninitiated, Ruthven Lane lies to the west side of Byres Road. Ashton Lane, to the east, has two other famous Curry Houses,  I was surprised to find that the restaurant is upstairs, in this former mews.

Two couples occupied booths to my left on entry, a group of youths in the far corner to the right. They were loud, Hector went left. A well mannered chap was wiping tables, I was able to choose my own spot.

The paper menu was in situ, doubling as a table mat. Other than the – Bombay Small Plates – there was nothing on the menu to say that all plates are Tapas. Kerala Monkfish (£9.95) would either be excellent value for a main course, or surely way overpriced for – Tapas.

Mother India’s Cafe is my base level for comparison. Today’s Fish Curry would be compared to Mother India’s Cafe, whose Machi Massala (£5.80) is still held as being the best Fish Curry served in this city.

There was no sign of a 40% discount, so maybe just the city centre branch? Strange. On previous Chaakoo visits, there has been a deal combining Starter, plus one Tapas with Rice. I asked the chap who had just brought me a large carafe of Tap Water. A lunch menu was brought, Grill & Curry (£11.95), better value but no Fish Curry, not much in the way of Lamb either.

On previous Chaakoo visits, the model has been the Grill & Curry deal with an extra Dish from the Main Menu. Today I was not up for investing £21.90 for lunch.

Back in 2019, four years since my last Chaakoo visit then, Mags ordered impressive looking Bombay Potatoes (£5.95). With a thicker Masala, this was a departure from the otherwise Soupy Curry choices served at Chaakoo.

And so Kerala Monkfish and Bombay Potatoes was the Order, no Rice/Fries. The words – Tapas, Small Plates – had not still not been mentioned, however, the next couple to arrive were advised thus.

The new cheapo camera appears to take better photos of close up writing than its predecessor, however, it’s difficult to tell if/when a photo has actually been taken. I fear missing out recording a main course in future. Care will have to be taken. Maybe a new phone is the compromise?

Don’t Fear The Reaper – was playing in the background. Was it on repeat? It seemed to go on forever. This was the first time I had knowingly heard Blue Oyster Cult, I nearly bought – Secret Treaties – on its release, being intrigued by the cover. You too can now be pestered with ads for Blue Oyster Cult on finding the reason why.

The ultra polite waiter brought the Order, Tapas confirmed, it didn’t look much. At least I had avoided the ubiquitous blended, Soupy Masalas served previously. The two white bowls were hot to touch, careful, Hector.

Bombay Potatoes

Three Baby Potatoes sat in a mass of chopped Onions, also featuring Curry Leaves and Mustard Seeds. It’s good when these Seeds are identified, else one is left wondering, Mustard, Poppy, Nigella etc. There was a definite oil slick collecting at the bottom of the bowl, best avoided. I decanted to the side-plate provided.

Kerala Fish

The base Masala appeared almost identical to the above, this time creamier, Coconut Milk probably being the extra, plus Ginger and Garlic.  The Onion pieces were possibly larger. Four pieces of rolled Monkfish were decanted, that I reached four triggered another comparison. The four pieces of Fish presented recently at Travancore (Aberdeen) caused Hector great consternation, was that all I’m getting? Four pieces of Monkfish, hardly filling. I had my Potatoes.

Baby Potatoes, fitting for Tapas, I would have to eke these out. The ratio of Potato to – Masala – for me, was not well judged. Too much of the latter. Masala, was this truly a Masala, was this Curry?  The menu claimed so. Looking back to 2019, I remain convinced that the efficacy of the Masala was not in doubt. Today, I felt as if I had mostly – chopped Onions – not cooked down to form a mash. This was clearly deliberate, Chef’s decision.

The Spice Level was near the low end of the scale, but in time did build, slightly. There was some sense of Seasoning, but no great blast of Flavour. Unlike my favoured Curry Cafes where the Aloo has sat in the Masala for many hours, there was little/no impregnation here. Time for the Fish.

The Coconut Creaminess made this Dish even more mellow than its accompaniment. The Ginger did come through but remained faint. The Fish was well cooked, rubberiness avoided. Once more, Hector has to report a Fish Curry that did not have a pronounced sense of – Fishiness. Should I start to conclude that this is too much to ask? No way, I’m a Hector, and I’ll find my Fishy – Fish Curry.

With the Curry Leaves on both sides of my plate, I concluded that some must have been with the Kerala Monkfish also. I hoped for the telltale – smokiness – I associate with Curry Leaves and Coconut, not today.

Small Plates, the bowls were once too hot to touch, their contents were never more than – warm/hot, the food cooled rapidly. How had my Order been heated? Ding?  Hector’s rule #1 in reheating Curry – never use a microwave.

I saw three people working in the kitchen, had they prepared my Order from scratch, was it shipped in from St. Vincent Street? Chains, here lies the basic issue. One cannot tell if all comes from a central kitchen, unless one actually knows, and for one Glasgow Chain, I do.

I ate on, the Fish and Potatoes gone, I was left with the almost cold, chopped Onions and little sense of enjoyment. Wet and bland – were my final notes. I was never going to be filled by this, a Rice or Bread would have been an obvious addition to my Order. Too late.

The Bill

£16.72 The menu had warned of an – Optional & Discretionary 10% service charge. This was also stated on The Bill. I prefer to choose my own degree of tip, however, I was happy to pay this, the front of house staff had been excellent.

The Aftermath

Calling Cards are typically issued on Visit #1, was this so? Why spoil the day of the chaps who had so ably served me? My issue was with what they had served. I had spotted that if one leaves a review in a certain medium, they come back quickly.

I asked a simple question. QED.

As for the 40% discount, Yvonne later confirmed this on her phone … but only if one books in advance, Monday to Wednesday throughout January. This information is not on their website, that I can see.

West End – Chaakoo is not for Hector. Irani Cafés – I thought I had laid the ghost of Persia to rest. The favoured Southside Curry Cafes provide authentic fayre, and full portions at prices comparable to that paid here for – Small Plates. For Tapas, Mother India’s Cafe wins hands down, and their Machi Massala tastes of – Fish! 

2023 Menu

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Glasgow – Yadgar Kebab House – Overindulgence, Hector’s avoidance of…

Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP) has been somewhat neglected in recent months, September last year being the most recent visit. Hector admits to celebrating the positives in Karahi Palace’s open/closed cycle since last summer. Last summer, my last full blown Goshat Karahi at Yadgar was in July. We are overdue another feast, when Jim and Dr. Stan are ready, it will be arranged.

Arriving at 14.30, Naveed was in his spot behind the counter.

A surprise visit – was part of his greeting.

Shkoor, Mein Host, then emerged from the kitchen, he too did the double take.

Determined not to overindulge, I surveyed the trays under the counter, the – Daily Specials. Aloo Keema Mutter (£7.00) – sat in the middle of three, always tempting, but Hector has maybe seen enough Mince of late. Chapli Kebab (£3.50) has become a must in recent visits, today I would resist, no overindulgence.

Lamb Palak (£7.00), or – Saag – as Shkoor referred to it, was the only Lamb – Daily Special – visible. Could the Hector face this density of Spinach once again, after Zarathustra (Köln)? There was only one way to find out.

And a half portion of the Aloo Gobi, please, I don’t want to embarrass myself.

What should accompany?

A Tawa Chapatti (£0.70) completed the Order.

On moving through to the seating area, the place was surprisingly busy. The window tables were occupied and remained so thereafter, the under-seat heating being a magnet. I sat well into the room, out of sight of the counter, a chap beside me was just finishing. He was clearly a regular given his exchanges as he paid. On his table was a menu, this I was keen to see. Thus, I am able to give prices for each part of my Order. Nothing has changed since last year, as Naveed said in September, as long as they keep selling out what is prepared each day, the price of Curry can be held.

A serving chap brought a Mango Rubicon (£1.00), the orchestra in the kitchen was being well conducted. Chef Arshad stopped to chat en-route from kitchen to store cupboard. He has been on holiday of late, my return visit was well timed.

Fish Pakora

Fish Pakora (£6.00) another irresistible Yadgar stalwart, I hadn’t enquired, but still it came. Not a full portion, three large pieces of Fish in Batter, plus the heated Chilli Sauce, stunning. Fishy, Spicy, delightful, and lets not overlook the mini-Salad and Spiced Onions. Thankfully, I had avoided Poppadoms (£0.40), and a full plate of Special Salad (£1.50), still a feast, hopefully, overindulgence avoided, so far.

As I finished the Fish Pakora, so the actual Order was assembled on the table.

Tawa Chapatti

This, I could easily have done without. Huge, of the Wholemeal variety, hot for a while, I set a half Chapatti as my target. 

*

Aloo Gobi

A sensible fraction of a portion, enough to titillate, and not miss out. The majority of my Soupçon was Cauliflower with the Masala Mash also being Cauliflower-rich. I decided to ignore the clean plate and use the now warmer one on which the Fish had occupied.

Lamb Palak/Saag

A plateful, topped with Coriander, an abundance of Herbs, a test. Eight pieces of Lamb, some on-the-bone, sat in the thick green mush. Where to start?

On the assumption that the Palak would overwhelm the palate, I started with the Aloo Gobi. Astonishing! The Cauliflower had absorbed so much Flavour from the Masala Mash, the unique – Yadgar Taste – was pronounced. To come to Yadgar and not sample a Vegetable Curry, criminal.

Shkoor would stop and check on my progress throughout the meal.

How do you do it? – I asked with reference to the intensity of Flavour in the Aloo Gobi.

It just happens.

They give nothing away.

The Chapatti was used to scoop the Spinach, this tempered the full on attack. As reported each time I have tackled this, Yadgar have five Herbs in their Palak: Spinach, Coriander, Methi, Mustard Leaves and Curry Leaves being the likely candidates. I’ll always prefer a Masala with Herbs to this full onslaught, however, this makes a fine change. Man cannot live by Karahi Gosht alone, though Hector may be up for that challenge.

On enquiring about my appreciation or otherwise, I had to tell Shkoor about my Persian Lamb-Spinach Dish at the aforementioned Zarathustra (Köln). I do not typically go OTT with criticism, however there it was deserved. Shkoor was aware of Persian Cuisine, and that they – steam – the food. The result, blandness, with a nasty edge.

But that is not what sat before me today. Somehow, the – Yadgar Taste – was present in the Tender Lamb, albeit very much in the background. There were more bones than first realised, including a bare Sucky Bone! Is it the Bone Marrow which is the Yadgar secret?

Dry Curry, that which the Hector seeks, still moist, not a contradiction. A Virtual Masala, just thought of that. The Spinach Mash had me take note. From here too, the Flavours were complex: Herbs of course, a slight Sweetness, and a further nod to the – Yadgar Taste. At other venues, this would be Bitter. Still, the quantity of Spinach et al was on the edge of my comfort zone, would I clear the plate?

Having been determined not to overindulge, the Chapatti was abandoned, I need to order a half Chapatti. The Meat was done, I managed the last spoonfuls of Saag, honour maintained.

My final exchange with Shkoor was regarding the opening hours. The menu states these, however, I know the reality to be different. Since Lockdown, I was told, people no longer come out for midnight Curry. 22.30 is presently a typical closing time. However it is opening times that are of concern for Hector: Fridays aside, 13.00 was declared.

The Bill

Given the part portion of Aloo Gobi, I had an estimate. Naveed’s was lower, I went higher. £12.00.

The Aftermath

Farewells, until next time. I suspect my table was claimed soon after. Saturday afternoon at Yadgar is proving to be a popular time.

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – Happy New Year!

Happy New Year to all readers of Curry-Heute which will soon be entering its fourteenth year, a lot of Curry, a lot of writing. A special mention to Curryspondents who were in touch: Doug, Archie, Ayaz, Zaheer and Tom, plus continuing thanks to Neil who proof reads these pages.

With Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley resident, there would be Curry-Heute. Having not been to Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) since last year, where else would Hector celebrate Curry-2023#1? Marg drove us to Tradeston, carefully avoiding the football traffic. (What were those Subs all about?) We arrived at 15.20, and being a public holiday, parked right outside Karahi Palace.

We took the window table such that a fan heater was able to do the necessary. Having spotted Marg’s photo on a certain social medium, Ayaz, Mein Host, referred to this as we exchanged season’s greetings. For those who missed it, here’s your opperchancity. Hector has a new camera, cheap as chips, we’ll see how it fares.

A quick glance at the ready Curry, Chicken Keema stood out. Ayaz confirmed that the (Lamb) Keema Mutter was not ready. My fellow diners took the Mince option: Spicy – Chicken Keema (£8.50) for Clive, less so, for Maggie, and for Marg, Mince Poori (£7.00).

Having had the Karahi Lamb (£12.00) here a mere three days ago, it was time for the grand alternative: Spicy Lamb Korma (£10.50). With the Mushroom Rice (£5.00), this has once again become Hector’s favourite Glasgow Curry. There is a differentiation between Curry and Karahi, fear not, mountains of Lamb in Minimal Masala should hopefully continue to appear aplenty in these pages.

The Mushroom Rice portion is way too large for one, Maggie was keen to share. Two Chapattis (£1.00) completed the order. One was really enough, one and a half would be ideal. Will 2023 be the year of – the half Chapatti?

Ayaz brought a jug of tap water. Last week I didn’t touch this, today, I can report no chemical taste. Glasgow tap water should be tasteless.

Ayaz and his new assistant got to work. After an appropriate time, what must be the hottest food served in the city was brought to the table. Here is the joy of this humble establishment, cooking food to order and nothing is left to sit, waiting for the other components to get ready. Teamwork.

Two substantial Chapattis, halved, were presented. Last Friday I marvelled once more at the quality of Chapatti served here. Today, I had a half, to wipe my bowl essentially. The Mushroom Rice was the focus of the accompaniments. With fresh Mushrooms, this is Biryani quality, tasty in its own right. Maggie was well taken by it also.

Spicy Lamb Korma

Served with a comparatively Soupy Masala, this needs Rice. The ratio of Masala to the half portion of Mushroom Rice worked perfectly. Moist Rice throughout, even allowing for my dipping with Chapatti.

Once the nine pieces of Meat were arranged on the Rice, so I then spread the Masala. The mindset had to be switched to – Curry.

Magnificent Lamb, served on-the-bone, as is the only way at Karahi Palace,  and with a sufficiency of sliced Green Chillies, the Spice Level was right up there. The Seasoning was perfection, as a consequence the full Desi Flavours flooded across the tongue, the Citrus was there, what a Masala.

Peppercorns were in the mix, from the Masala or Mushroom Rice, hard to tell once all was on the plate. The Rice truly plays it part in this royal combination, the Mushrooms add Diversity, for Hector, this is Curry Heaven.

I suppose diners could take half the Mushroom Rice away if dining alone. This is not to be missed.

Mince Poori

This creation makes its first appearance in Curry-Heute. The quantity of filling far surpasses the Chicken Tikka Puri previously posted. This Chicken Keema Puri was a meal, and one which I suspect Marg will have again. A Puri is surely so much more than a Chapatti, her customary accompaniment, and sweeter, Marg does – sweet.

First Curry of the year, Marg’s initial reaction maintains: this is Spicy!

It was larger than expected a full portion of Keema with a side Salad.

Two Dips had also made their way to the table.

A good flavour with a wee kick. The Bread was fluffy and went well with the meat.

Chicken Keema

Meanwhile, across the table, Maggie was questioning – medium Spice. Clive’s Keema had added sliced Green Chillies, presumably Maggie’s was as on display. Whilst the Mushroom Rice did temper the Spice in the lesser Keema, Yoghurt was called for, a Mint Raita was presented. All was well.

My first ever Chicken Keema – began Clive – very happy. Asked for Spicy, not unbearable, at the right level for me. The quantity was right, had it been three times as much, I would have eaten it.

Once Maggie had recovered:

The Mushroom Rice was tasty with whole Mushrooms in a big portion. The Chicken Mince, lots of, loads of, flavour. The Chicken Mince was both hot and spicy for a medium, hence yoghurt was requested and delivered, I ate too much.

And she didn’t order a Starter!

Lord Clive and Lady Maggie never leave Glasgow feeling hungry.

The Bill

£41.50   Four fed, for a tenner a head.

The Aftermath

Hector hates selfies, Marg loves them. For the sake of harmony, here we go…

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – We’re Back!

On December 17, I found Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) closed, again. Mein Host, Ayaz, was not responding to communications, the worst was feared. Two days ago, Howard reported Karahi Palace to be open, yay.

Arriving at 16.10, Ayaz was there to greet.

What happened?

I had to go to Pakistan.

Why didn’t you take me with you?

I took my favourite spot in the empty seating area. The usual order was recited: Karahi Lamb (£12.00) and one Chapatti (£1.00). A jug of tap water was brought, this I did not touch.

The Delivery Chap was sampling the fayre on display between orders. It was only later I saw a third staff member, a new assistant in the kitchen.

Ayaz got to work, another single diner arrived and settled down. I never heard him place an order, somehow his Curry & Chips arrived.

Karahi Lamb

The thought of never having this, as cooked at Karahi Palace, ever again has been foremost in Hector’s mind for the past thirteen days. Super hot food, such a familiar aroma, here we go, again.

Lamb on-the-bone, as soft as Lamb can be and full of Flavour. The Chapatti was used to scoop up the Tomato based Masala. What a Chapatti, a standout today, light and fluffy, one can take this for granted, perfect.

This Karahi was more than pleasure, a fix. The cooked in – sliced Green Chillies – upped the kick, the Seasoning may have been a tad below what is usually served to Hector.

Given what is now being charged for a kilo of Karahi Gosht, this portion was still excellent value. There was no stress involved in eating this Karahi, minimal bones, one sucky. Somehow I ate this Curry quicker than normal, at the end, still hot food. The final Curry of the year, what a way to end.

The Bill

£12.50    One may ask…

The Aftermath

I had to ask after Rashid. Ayaz hopes he will be back in the coming weeks and manage a few hours per day. He is – le Chef!

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Hector Cooks for Carnoustie 2022 – Aloo Keema Mutter

A night in Carnoustie en route home, all part of the ritual of xmas in Aberdoom.

Can you cook for eight? – another part of the ritual.

That Mags and Dr. Alasdair need a break, having entertained their hordes, is understood. Free accommodation and more importantly, abundant heat, is not to be declined in these times. Due to Covid, it is three years since Marg and Hector engaged in this ritual, however there was a – please bring a dish – request at the end of July this year for a wedding reception. Desi Murgh Aloo might be suitable for the masses, however, for a discerning eight, something better was required.

Palak Gosht would be a suitable test, but not everyone can handle Spinach in a Curry. Marg and Hector may have seen enough Saag/Palak pro tem. Kofta Anda was considered. Maybe next time. Keema Aloo Mutter can’t go wrong.

The Spice mix, powders and whole, was assembled on xmas eve and taken north. The fresh ingredients were purchased this morning at Aberdeen’s foremost Asian grocer – New Spice of Asia – on John Street, next door to the former source of the finest rowies. What happened to them?

Frozen Onions always produce surplus water, these were thawed, heated and drained. As shall be seen, not to any great effect.

The Onions were heated on the induction hob, then cooked in the Oil for approaching an hour with the Garlic and Ginger, before the Spices were added. At some point during the chopping of Tomatoes and Green Chillies, it was realised that the abundant Herbs on the counter were not Coriander.

Some twenty years back, whilst shopping at KRK (Glasgow), I was told to always taste a Coriander leaf at the point of purchase, else – one might go home with Parsley. Mags was on the case, alas there was no Coriander to be bought in Carnoustie. Friends and family were consulted, driving to Dundee/Arbroath was dismissed. Not the end of the World.

Meanwhile…

Dr. Alasdair prepared his Peanut Chat Masala, which also required Coriander. I suggested he add some Tamarind instead. Tamarind was to be the only ingredient added to the Keema beyond those listed in the recipe. How to avoid – blandness – was my explanation.

There would also be a very yellow Curry made from leftovers. Turkey Balti – was Dr. Alasdair’s chosen moniker. Dr. Alasdair was also making – Flatbread. Paul would bring his home-made Naan.

The Potatoes, locally sourced, were cooked separately, just in case they were resistant. On an induction hob, everything seems to takes three times longer to cook, just saying. Gas is king, if one can still afford it. Before these were added, it was necessary to remove the excess liquid, mostly water. Three of these bowls were ladled off in order to create something approaching presentable Keema. Freshly ground Garam Masala was added, before and after the draining.

Marg, having spotted the Green Chillies, pleaded for me not to make it too Spicy. Marg was given a Soupçon, the usual reaction followed. More Tamarind, more Salt, eventually I could actually taste – Curry. Not too shabby.

Dave and Cathy arrived with Poppadoms, Spiced Onions and copious Coriander. The day was saved!

Mags put Pakora in the oven, soon we were sitting in the kitchen having – Starters. Marg soon realised the consequence of abundant Starters.

With the Breads in the oven, the Curry was decanted to a serving dish, the first time all of Hector’s Carnoustie Curry has not required two. One kilo of Lamb Mince, how had I ended up with so much? There was way more than eight could manage. Potatoes and Peas? I could have dropped one.

The Main Event

The Turkey Balti had magically turned – brown. Methinks the Garam Masala had found its way in here too. Making a Curry with precooked Turkey has its limitations. Brown Turkey Meat, cooked from scratch, can give excellent results, white Turkey not. With minimal Spice and Seasoning, this was what it was.

Paul’s Naan impressed once again. No Tandoor, no Tawa, oven cooking might not produce the iconic burnt blisters, but the Bread was light and fluffy. I made sure that Ginger Strips and chopped Coriander were on the table. Let’s have – the foliage!

Aloo Keema Mutter

Carol asked me if I thought my Aloo Keema Mutter was too Spicy for her. That she asked, suggested a rhetorical question. Later, I was assured it was not. One has to play safe, no point serving a Curry people cannot eat.

The usual noises were made around the table. There were no – wows – none deserved. Such was the quantity, much was left over. Competent Aloo Keema Mutter, no more. Let the Hector loose.

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