Glasgow – Sheerin Palace – Kofta Anda Day

Hector let loose in Glasgow on a Wednesday? That can only mean one thing, Kofta Anda at Sheerin Palace (300 Allison St, Govanhill/Crosshill, Glasgow, G42 8HQ).

The notion – took me to The Village on Monday for Kofta Palak, there was the realisation that today it could be interesting to attempt some sort of comparison.

Arriving it 14.45, five big chaps in their twenties stood in a line on my side of the counter. The scene was like something out of a Tarantino movie, what was about to unfold? Mein Host was on the phone, was he calling for assistance? I parked my coat on a chair in the dining area such that I could observe all. Two Takeaway orders were assembled, they paid, cash only, at Sheerin Palace, all was well.

The tray with Kofta Anda was on display under the glass counter, for once I resisted the Aloo Gobi. Mein Host took the Order: Kofta Anda, one Chapatti, one Meat Samosa. I returned to my seat, at other tables the debris from two previous diners was in situ, and would remain so. There is no ceremony here, there’s no menu or prices on display either, WYSIWYG. Things are different in Govanhill, double parking along Garturk Street is also OK. MOT central.

A chap brought a Chapatti from the kitchen, he looked around, as there was no-one else, he placed it in front of me. Large, Wholemeal, well fired in parts, this would do the job, albeit, there would be the inevitable splashes. One cannot have Rice with Kofta Anda.

Mein Host came through and addressed me in Urdu. I would like to think that I am well known in these parts, this was a first. Meat – Samosa was reconfirmed at the second attempt, in English.

Kofta Anda

Four Meatballs, only four? The Village served five and they may have been larger. Ah, but … here was the hard boiled Egg, the Anda. The Shorva looked to be its usual inviting self. This is Visit #20, Curryspondent Reybans put me in my place in early visits, Shorva is what this dish is all about. One needs a spoon.

The first intake of Shorva caught the back of the throat,  Spice, Seasoning and Soupy, authentic Shorva. Desi Man! I cut the Meatballs up into smaller pieces, not necessary, but who wants this to stop in four bites? These Kofta had the required level of Seasoning, and seemed more – Meaty, one up to Sheerin Palace, Monday’s at The Village were somewhat lacking. The Meatballs here were better by far, however, The Village had the intensity of a Palak-rich Masala accompanying, so here the comparison has to end.

Why the Egg is such a crucial part puzzled for years. Maybe the hard yolk soaks up some of the Shorva? The Diversity of Texture? Whatever, it works. Kofta Anda at Sheerin Palace is always a treat. (available Wednesday & Saturday)

Samosa

At first I thought there were two, something to do with the fold in the pastry. Hot, greasy, the Samosa was packed presumably with Lamb Mince, plus surprisingly large pieces of Potato. Had it arrived first, I would have enjoyed my first ever Samosa at Sheerin Palace, but I had Shorva. Dipping the contents of the Samosa in the Shorva added even more Flavour, excellent.

Accompanying the Samosa was a Salad/Garnish. Two wee bits of Tomato, the last Tomato in Glasgow? Actually the grocers on Allison Street have loads, £3.00 a kilo, watch the prices in the supermarkets rise, and rise. For the record, there is no shortage of Tomatoes in the EU. Thank you, Boris, once again. Can’t wait for my next hour long queue at a European airport passport control.

I watched Mein Host decant the remaining contents of the tray of Kofta Anda into Takeaway containers.

The Bill

£8.00   Govanhill prices.

Mein Host had his coat on and was leaving as I approached the counter to pay. The amount was relayed to his replacement whom I recognised, and vice versa, but not from here.

The Aftermath

At 15.30 there were three portions of Kofta Anda left and lots of Tomatoes in Allison Street.

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Glasgow – The Village “Curry House” – A Late Lunch

Marg, already on the Southside, declared herself free for Curry-Heute. Such was the level of enthusiasm, Marg had secured a table at The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA) and was waiting for my arrival at 15.00. Only two other tables were occupied, soon we would have the place to ourselves. A new daytime manager was on duty this afternoon.

The lunch menu had been brought to the table despite the fact that it expired at 14.30. Marg was having the two course Lahore (£7.95) deal with an extra 50p for Lamb Curry. Vegetable Pakora would be the Starter. Instead of taking the Chapatti (two) option, I persuaded Marg to have the Naan. Hector was ordering from the main menu. Spinach was calling once again: Kofta Palak (£11.95), a Curry which guarantees an intensity of Flavour.

The waiter (manager) was taken aback when I ordered Kofta Palak without having consulted the main menu. He recognised that I must be a regular, and one who knows his Curry. I didn’t introduce myself.

There was no sign of Mr. Baig, Mein Host this afternoon, though Kasif’s big brother who works in the kitchen, did acknowledge me when he passed by.

Vegetable Pakora

Three large pieces, double fried, were accompanied by a Dip and a modest Salad. No Tomatoes, of course, we’ll see how high the price goes in the coming weeks. We had to make do with Cucumber, Onion, and the dreaded Green Pepper.

Hector was permitted one of three, and so can report with confidence: Spicy, Tasty, and the Dip upped the experience. One does not eat enough Vegetable Pakora, who can then justify a Main Course?

The Naan arrived cut into four pieces, well almost cut through. Folded, Marg wondered if there would be enough to share. Once opened, the Naan proved to be substantial. With a thin centre and risen, puffy, soft edges, we both had the our preferred parts.

*

Lamb Curry

I didn’t, but I could almost taste that blended Masala. Marg did a Meat count, important when having the Lunch Menu. Six was the total, though a couple of pieces were toty.

One assumes the distinctive Village Taste was present. Marg wasn’t saying much as she took care of her Lamb Curry other than:

This is a good portion for me.

However, I know that Marg eats all that is set before her.

Kofta Palak

The food was – Hot! A quiet Village is when it is at its best. Busy, or dining in large numbers, and one’s meal can be left to sit and cool. This was straight from the hob.

Five medium-sized Kofta sat in the dark, Herb-rich Masala. Each Meatball was halved in order to make the Meat to Masala ratio appear more favourable. The Masala was wonderfully rich in Flavour. One assumes there was more than just Spinach in there. Yadgar declare five Herbs in their Saag/Palak. The Seasoning was on the button in the Masala, but on biting into the first Kofta, distinctly lacking. Eating directly from the karahi with a spoon, the plan was to have the Masala with the Naan and eat the Meatballs separately. However, without the Masala, the Kofta were not giving all they should. This meant I ate less Bread.

Once sorted, the Curry was much to my liking. Spinach, Hector has his notions, one wonders what triggers this one?

A large group entered as we finished, we timed it well. 15.00, the optimum time to eat.

The Bill

£20.40  Still great value.

The Aftermath

Across the street lies a takeaway coffee shop – Mulkanwan. Marg has been keen to sample their Coffee. A pleasant chap, Mein Host confirmed that of the thousands meant to be working at Barclay’s Folly, the majority still work from home. Predictable.

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Hector Cooks – Namkeen Karahi – Fish Karahi – Have Curry Will Travel

Craig and Lesley’s invitation for dinner in Helensburgh, with Hector cooking of course, has effectively been in place, for years. We all know why it has taken so long to fix the date. Usually when one receives a dinner invitation, the host cooks. However, Hector feeding Carnoustie is well documented in these pages. At least tonight was dinner for four, not eight plus.

The venue was Burnbrae, where, in the early years of Curry-Heute, Hector taught the school leavers how to make Curry. It was Craig and Lesley who ran – Life After Lomond – and they took part. In the spirit of giving one more Curry lesson, it was agreed that I would – teach – the making of a Tomato-based Fish Karahi in situ and bring a prepared Lamb Curry.

I have been keen to make a Namkeen Karahi for some time. Having studied many recipes online, some contain neither Tomato or Onions. As I was faced with preparing a Tomato-based Masala later, I decided to go with Onions. House of Sher was visited on Wednesday, a kilo and a half of Lamb was purchased along with frozen Tilapia, and other fresh Herbs & Spices. Today was a long day of cooking.

Namkeen Karahi, basically, nothing – red – goes in. Salt and Pepper, various, are the key ingredients, Sources include Cumin Seeds and Poppy Seeds, I went with these. Both finger Chillies and Bullet Chillies would add a further – kick.

Being a special occasion, I opted for Ghee over Oil, the Lamb, on-the-bone, was browned in the melted Ghee then Ginger and Garlic Pastes were stirred through along with the Salt. Already, the Meat was releasing moisture.

The roughly cut huge Onion was added, and left to cook for a few minutes. Meanwhile, the Cumin Seeds and Black Peppercorns were ground simultaneously. This mix was then added along with White Pepper, Coarse Black Pepper and the Poppy Seeds. Nothing – red – hence the term – White Karahi.

Slow, patient, cooking is the key to success I have ascertained. What resembled a Lamb Stew at 14.00 had dramatically changed by 17.00. The quantity of moisture released took me by surprise, yet no liquid was added. Two hours on the lowest gas setting, stirring every twenty minutes or so, the lid on, and I was left with a wetter Curry than I hoped to present. The Chillies were stirred in, then some Yoghurt. Again, the inclusion of Yoghurt is debatable, being – white – this felt appropriate. Even with the lid off for the final hour, still on a low gas, the level of moisture was retained. However, all signs of the Onion had vanished other than the Masala having acquired a decent viscosity, This was not – Shorva.

Namkeen Karahi

After the full three hours of simmering it was time to taste.

Oh yes!

The Meat had already fallen off the bone whilst stirring. After three hours it was decidedly – melt in the mouth Tender. As for the Flavour, this was exactly what was desired at the outset. Peppery! – with a true depth of Flavour. The Spice Level was pitched well for the intended audience, Marg, at least, should love this.

The – Namkeen Karahi Recipe – is posted based on 1kg of Meat.  Proud as the Hector is of this creation, it comes with a caveat.

The Karahi was left to cool for an hour then decanted to a plastic tub for transportation. It was some three hours later when the Namkeen Karahi was placed on the hob for reheating. Had it been possible, I would be asking – who substituted this for my Curry?

Earlier I had made the decision not to force this into becoming a Dry Karahi, but the moisture had gone regardless. The lengthy reheating was doing no favours, the Karahi just became drier and drier such that it resembled a Saag/Palak.

Rather than add the Coriander as a garnish I decided to go for it, this was cooked in. Finally, I had to add Water, else all would have been burnt. What went on the plate bore no resemblance to what I had cooked this afternoon.  Perhaps this is another feature which differentiates – Karahi – from – Curry?


Whilst the Lamb was slowly cooking, the Spices were prepared for the Fish Karahi. Despite having made a Tomato-based Masala previously, the Spices not included stand out. Sources suggest Fish should not be left to marinade for too long, an hour being ideal. It was some three hours before cooking #2 was underway, the delay was due to the amount of time to have Naan delivered in Helensburgh.

Two work stations were set up, Marg was my assistant, Lesley would be on Craig’s team, a competition? Craig and Lesley had provided the Tomatoes, twenty four were asked for, only eighteen in total could be sourced in Helensburgh. Something is afoot, no Tomatoes in our supermarkets?

One assumes that when halving a Tomato, one cuts through the stem scar. For the purposes of removing the skin, it feels more logical to cut at right angles to the stem scar. Last time, the skins came off without having to turn over the Tomatoes, tonight not so. This took way longer than envisaged, meanwhile the reheating Namkeen Karahi was suffering.

The full – Fish Karahi Recipe – is posted, and so the few Spices went in once the Tomatoes had disintegrated to a pulp. In time, and with lots of stirring, the pulp became a rich Masala. The final touches: adding the Methi, Yoghurt, then cooking in the Coriander and Garam Masala. Thus the desired Masala was created. Laborious in terms of the removal of the Tomato skins and stirring, but with relatively few ingredients.

Marg was charged with cutting up the Tilapia. Her concept of – bite-size – was smaller than mine. The contents of Craig’s pot had a different hue, down to the shape of the pot and the lighting. It was agreed that we would test both, and so portions from each pot were arranged on the plate.

As it happens, both Fish Karahi tasted the same. Fish Karahi, Hector’s – Holy Grail – in terms of Curry. Around the table the noises were positive. The extent to which this was – politeness – can never be established. Lesley noted the Citrus, so the Marinade had worked.

Fish Karahi

A chunkier Fish would have made the experience even grander, Tilapia seemed a bit thin. All but a Soupçon of the Fish Karahi in both pots remained at the end of the meal. This was meant to be a – Side – to the main event, the Namkeen Karahi.

Foreground: Namkeen Karahi – Background: Fish Karahi

Marg declared the Namkeen Karahi to be – Peppery. Again, positive comments, however, the Hector was less than impressed. Adding Water should never have been required. Cooking in the Coriander had felt the way ahead.. This was simply not the wonderful Karahi I had cooked earlier. This was – decent – in no way outstanding. Cook and serve immediately – the lesson learned.

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – Friday Night Curry

Hector out on a Friday night, so pre-retirement. Alan suggested Curry night for the chaps only, and the venue: Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ). Who am I to disagree?

Approaching Karahi Palace at 20.00, the disco lights were flashing upstairs, a wedding reception, soon to reach its conclusion. I took my preferred place in the ground floor seating area. Ayaz, Mein Host, was in the cooking spot, a new chap was front of house serving, possibly brought in especially for the evening. We had timed it well, an hour earlier, who knows how long we could have waited. The down side, we never saw the Fayre that went upstairs.

Alan was having Hector’s usual Order – Karahi Lamb – (£12.00) in the preferred style: extra Salt, extra Methi, with a Chapatti (£1.00). Having had this six days ago, it was time for Hector to have the great alternative: Lamb Korma Spicy (£10.00) with Mushroom Rice (£5.00). Whilst the new guy wrote down the Order, I was communicating to Ayaz that we wanted – the full Bhuna.

Spicy – was therefore added to the mix.

Coffee, served in paper cups, was the only foodstuff I saw go upstairs. In time, the weans stopped running around, all was quiet on the Tradeston Front. A Modest Salad and Raita were brought to the table. The presence of Cucumber in both meant Alan was not having these. In the end, both remained untouched. When the jug of Tap Water arrived, Alan mentioned – bleach. Somebody reads Curry-Heute. As noted on Saturday, this appears to have subsided.

Karahi Lamb

Topped with the customary Ginger Strips and Coriander, the Karahi was ever so hot. Allan watched the sizzling, and realised he would have to wait for partial cooling, else he would have done himself damage. The Chapatti was served halved. We studied it then agreed it could have been made from a mixture of Wholemeal and White Flour.

Having described this Curry a hundred times, it’s good to have another person’s take on it. Alan will always count the bones, tonight he had fewer then me. His first ever Karahi here was described as – a bag of bones. Not so tonight, but Alan reckons the overall portion size has shrunk, well the Meat content. He took up Ayaz’ offer of a second Chapatti, however, only a fraction of this was required. The – half Chapatti – has to be invented.

That was very tasty – was the spontaneous comment as he wiped the karahi clean.

Lovely, very spicy, less meat in the portion.

This is compared to his last visit here which was pre-Lockdown. How has he denied himself the pleasure for so long? In this period, we had discussed sharing the kilo, alas, Hector is not yet ready for this challenge with only two diners.

Lamb Korma Spicy

Served in a bowl, without Toppings, because this is Curry, not Karahi. Alan noted the more – Soupy – nature of the Dish also, hence the need for Rice. The Masala was dark, menacingly so. I decanted the solids and some Masala, leaving the remainder for the end game.

Mushroom Rice

Twice the price of the standard Rice Dishes, the quantity is commensurate. I had already declared that half was going home. This is a effectively a Biryani, the Mushrooms offering Diversity. The Spices in the Rice complement the Curry, this has become a tried and tested combination.

Cloves! – registered immediately, and aggressively so. The Spice Level was distinctly high, the Seasoning spot on, for Hector. Apart from Clove, the depth of Flavour here was stunning. I awaited the possible – Citrus – not tonight. I asked Alan if he had been to Kabana (Manchester), not yet. This Spicy Korma was comparable to their so-called Karahi. The Texture of the Lamb took me back to Kabana, and this is a major compliment. Two – Sucky Bones – it was all happening on Hector’s plate.

Spicy? The Spice Level seemed to grow. On biting into a Peppercorn, I studied the Masala, none. On digging through the remaining Rice, – aha!

Ayaz had certainly pulled out all of the stops, most certainly the – Fiercest Curry – I have ever been served at Karahi Palace.

*

The Bill

£31.00    There is evidently an extra charge for – Bespoke Curry.

The Aftermath

Ayaz was beaming, then laughed aloud – Spicy!

I ate it – was the response.

Anyone can add Chillies and up the Spice Level, to do so and retain this depth of Flavour, takes special skill.

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Glasgow – Yadgar – Fresh & Simple

An alternative favourite meal at Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP) has evolved. This features two Starters and one Curry, the latter being Vegetables. In September, Hector went – a Chapli too far. Sold at £3.50 for a pair, today, one would suffice, on the assumption that Fish Pakora (£5.00) was available.

Arriving at 15.00, Naveed was behind the counter.

Fish Pakora? This was confirmed.

One Chapli, something Vegetable.

Potatoes, Carrots and Peas (£5.00), just made.

One Chapatti?

No Chapatti (£0.70).

Such is the diversity of this Order, Bread is not required, though it has taken time to establish that. I took a seat at the smallest table, other diners were in situ. Today, the heated window seats were initially unoccupied, it’s warm for February.

Shkoor, Mein Host, arrived, always welcoming, and surprised when I have not made contact in advance to order kilos(s) of Goshat Karahi (£30.00). It is some time since Hector had the full Yadgar experience. I assured Shkoor that the chaps from Paisley are keen to come for a feast (and fill the coffers). For the record, Chapatti John was here last week and had a kilo of boneless Karahi, sneaky.

A Complimentary Salad, featuring sliced, Pickled Chillies and copious Onions was presented along with the customary two Dips. Today, the Chilli Sauce was not heated, too warm outside? I accepted the can of Mango Rubicon (£1.00) which Naveed brought out. All was set.

*

Fish Pakora

A plateful of Fish in Spicy Batter, Haddock is the norm at Yadgar. Freshly made, always a treat. I asked Naveed if this is always available. For years it was brought on a Complimentary basis, but sporadically. Apparently it’s always available, but only after the Oil has been heated. So not immediately after opening time then.

Five large pieces of Fish, plus a tiddler, the largest portion of Fish served to Hector in some time. Why do restaurants not give this much in a Fish Curry? Best eaten straight from the kitchen, I have had this as a Takeaway, the impact is then lost. I decided to eat the Fish Pakora in two sessions. Firstly with the Chapli Kebab, then as the – meat – accompaniment for the Vegetable Curry. The overall quantity should have been manageable, especially without Bread, or so I thought.

Chapli Kebab

I’ve tried making these, but why bother when Yadgar do them so well? Chicken Mince is the base, yes, Hector does order Chicken at Yadgar. Spicy, tasty, I could eat them until the cows, or Chickens, come home. Limiting the Order to one showed self-restraint, I was determined to finish all I had ordered. Well, not the green bits in the Salad. Hector is a self-respecting – Weegie – after all.

There was a welcomed gap before the Aloo Gajar Mutter was brought, this meant the food on the table could be eaten whilst hot, apart from the Salad. It was delivery time. Having observed the – Pearl – Cooking Oil being brought into Karahi Palace on Saturday, today I can confirm that Yadgar use – KTC – as do Ambala. KTC is available in domestic quantities in supermarkets. I am not on commission.

Aloo Gajar Mutter

Potatoes, skins on, Carrots and Peas, topped with Ginger and Coriander, sat in a mushy Masala; this is a meal in itself, and a rewarding one. It never fails to amaze me that – The Yadgar Taste – associated with their Karahi, can be present here. As is written oft, I have speculated as to how this is achieved. Carrots – has been denied, well they would.

I took around half of the Vegetable Curry and set the remainder aside. I knew already that a – doggy bag – would be required.

The next time Naveed passed, the other half  was taken back to the kitchen.

The remaining Fish complemented the Potatoes, Peas and Carrots. The Potatoes had absorbed Flavour from the Minimal Masala, the slight Sweetness from the Carrots added another dimension. The Peas played their part, and not just as – Ballast. This is a favourite combination of Vegetables, but certainly not in European cooking. The Spice brings out so much more from these humble Vegetables.

Reminiscent of a scene from – Are You Being Served? – Mr. Anwar Sr. entered. He too stopped to greet. I had to ask how his kitchen maintains such consistency and high quality. Keeping things – fresh and simple – was the reply. I admitted that some of the (jars of) Spices in my cupboard are – old – in fact, I’ve forgotten what some of them are. He insisted that Dry Spices should not lose their Flavour. However, such is the turnover at Yadgar, they are hardly going to have – Old Spice!

I ate on, happy that I had sent half of the Aloo Gajar Mutter back for packing. I mopped up the Oily residue with the last morsels of Fish Pakora. I could have this meal every week, but as unfolds below, morally, I cannot. Anyway, as it’s the start of a new year, I’ll have to get back to the other delightful venues on Allison Street.

The Bill

Shkoor held up the card machine – £5.00.

I’m not paying that, add another three.

It should have been appreciably more, but Hector has long admitted to receiving special treatment, well I do promote Yadgar, often. That I only had – Vegetables – was again the justification. The card machine was presented once more:

£7.50

This is not how haggling is meant to work – I informed Shkoor.

(Though Marg thinks it does.)

The Aftermath

I told Shkoor where the – doggy bag – was bound and outlined – The Monday Club.

Retirement? I recommend it.

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – Turtles Have Got Short Legs

12.45, Marg dropped Hector at Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) en route to hockey. The shutters were down, the door unlocked. 13.00, I believe is the current opening time. There was no sign of Ayaz, the new, mature chap behind the counter greeted. He was clearly busy with preparation.

Are we open?

He is coming – was the reply.

I took my spot.

After a few minutes, the Order was taken: Karahi Lamb (£12.00) and one Chapatti (£1.00). Hector would forego the customary tweaks, no – more Methi, extra Salt. I settled down to watch football on the Oppo. VAR is doing my head in, no consistency.

The chap brought a plate and napkins, a jug of Tap Water was secured. Today, no bleach taste. A one man show, he was doing well to get both bits of my meal ready. 

The Wholemeal Chapatti arrived in quarters, not the end of the World, however, do that to a Naan and all is not well. I would eat all but a crumb.

Karahi Lamb

Unbelievably, this was my first visit to Karahi Palace this year. Consistency, the name of the game. Super-hot, the Karahi Lamb was topped with Ginger Strips and a threat of Coriander. It looked as if Chef Rashid/Ayaz had prepared this wonderful creation. The method in how pre-cooked Lamb is transformed into Karahi is slowly being divulged on YouTube, achieving these particular results remains a secret. This may have been partly revealed today.

The Seasoning was there, the Spice Level was not demanding, fewer sliced Green Chillies than the regular Chefs would have added.

McKellar Watts – for meatiness! The Meat was so Tender, full of the Flavour of Lamb and giving back Spice. The Tomato-based Masala was as astonishing as ever, immense Flavours. So few bones today, a lot of eating.

Ayaz entered around 13.20 carrying supplies, he was surprised to see me tucking in. I gave the thumbs up, his assistant had done me proud. The fifty litre drum of – Pearl – cooking oil was a revelation. I wonder how much this cost? I shall hopefully source this soonest, along with Coley and King Fish.

The shutters were finally raised, the sunlight flooded in. When does winter arrive?

I ate on. The karahi was wiped clean. Astonishing Karahi, why this place is not queued out from opening time remains a mystery. Ignore the modest surroundings, try the Curry!

The Bill

£13.00   No tweaks, so no tweak charge.

The Aftermath

Where are your friends? – asked Ayaz.

Too early – was the reply. Once again an early kick-off due to that sport which commands part-time interest.

It looks as though I’ll be back here on Friday. Will Alan have Karahi or the Spicy Korma (with Mushroom Rice)? Six more days and all shall be revealed.

Turtles Have Got Short Legs

 

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Glasgow – Taste of Chennai – Ten Years After Kama Sutra, to the day

As reported on Saturday, there were balloons outside Taste of Chennai (331 Sauchiehall Street, Glasgow, G2 3HW) to mark the rebranding, Kama Sutra is no more. When Marg announced she would join Hector for Curry-Heute, this seemed the perfect opperchancity to investigate the alterations. Today, February 6th, marks the tenth anniversary of my first, and only, visit to Kama Sutra.

Before entering, we went in search of Southern Spice. Somehow it became a Kebap shop without me realising, presumably during the era of Covid. Tuk-Tuk – Indian Street Food closed recently, Indian Gallery a while back, this part of Sauchiehall Street needs Curry Houses.

How I missed the opening of Glassy Central (285 Sauchiehall Street, Glasgow G2 3HQ), a few doors along from Taste of Chennai, puzzles. Glasgow’s first – Desi Bar – this sounds appealing. However I note the opening times have been revised, so no more Lunchtime opening. 16.00 does not suit the Hector eating pattern, it could be some time therefore before Glassy Central is reviewed. They do advertise Lamb on-the-bone (£8.50).


Marg and Hector entered Taste of Chennai at 15.00. We were offered the window table in the otherwise empty restaurant, declined. A booth along the left wall was chosen. The décor is bright, partitions and pillars made capturing the layout difficult. It is a marked change from what I recall as being a dark and mysterious venue previously.

Mein Host brought the menu, he confirmed that Taste of Chennai opened on Friday, the balloons didn’t last long. Kama Sutra was in situ for thirteen years, new owners and some new Chefs were declared, and a new menu. Having studied the menu online, Chettinadu Fish Curry (£11.99) was already in Hector’s mind. I had sold Marg on the Lamb Pepper Curry (£11.99).

The Rice section is extensive. Today, Marg was having Rice, not her customary Chapatti (£1.50). I suggested we share Veg Fried Rice (£6.99). With Plain Rice at £2.99, this should surely be enough to share. A 750ml bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.99) completed the Order.

Spice Level was then discussed. Marg opted for – medium.

I can handle Spicy – was boasted.

Chicken, Lamb and Fish are priced the same, unusual. I was at least happy not to be paying a premium for Fish Curry. Perhaps the – meat – quantity is adjusted accordingly.

From my seat, I tried to take photos of the layout. Better ones were secured at the end of the meal. At 15.00, the lady hostess brought hot plates, a bit quick, but at least we were not going to be taken prisoner as it felt at The Wee Curry Shop on Saturday.

Mix Veg Rice

What came, took me by surprise. The aroma was decidedly – not Indian.  Despite the menu stating – Cumin and Indian Spices, this Rice was a creation from further East. 

The quantity of Vegetables disappointed, the content/array also. It is some time, OK, three weeks,  since the Hector was exposed to the dreaded Ballast, here were strips of both Red and Green Capsicum. Slivers of Cabbage (?) and sliced Syboes were mixed through. Indian Restaurants, as experienced in India, across Europe and back to the UK, serve Mixed Vegetable Rice containing – Carrots, Peas, Green Beans Cauliflower/Broccoli. Not at Taste of Chennai.

No Onion Raita arrived as per menu description.

There was enough to share, though a Chapatti could well have been managed.

Chettinadu Fish Curry

The dark – Soupy – Masala was as expected. It doesn’t have to be this way, however, outwith Indian Mango (München), who set the standard by which all Chettinad is compared, this is how it is. Having decanted the first piece of Fish to the Rice, there was almost a cry of joy at finding an entire steak slice of King Fish below. Fish Curry on-the-bone, yay! Travancore (Aberdeen) this was not. As we all know: King Fish, aka Surmai/Wahoo/Spanish Mackerel, has dark flesh which cooks white.

Four whole cloves of Garlic were in the Masala; the irony that this became the largest Vegetable on the plate was not lost. Some Diversity at least.

The Spice Level built slowly. There was no big blast of South Indian Curry, no Red Chillies, no roasted Coconut. I was evaluating the Seasoning when finally, the Fish gave off its true Flavour. A Fish Curry that tastes of – Fish – too much to ask in too many venues. Something then triggered the release of the recognisable South Indian Flavour, never strong, at last it arrived. This was more like it.

The strong Texture of the Fish was a positive, I’m going to stand at the freezer section in an Asian grocer and hopefully establish what’s what. Coley (Pollock) and King Fish will have to be sourced. With the ratio of Fish to Masala weighted towards the latter, it became a matter of course that I would be left with Rice and Masala, nay Fish. This is where the Vegetables could have provided more, sadly not today.

An enjoyable Curry, not outstanding, however, the Hector did something in an attempt to rectify the situation.

Lamb Pepper Curry

Really, how – Soupy – can a Curry be presented? There was no sign of anything genuinely solid in the Masala. Maybe the floaters were the skins of the famed Dried Red Chillies, Marg wasn’t saying. Marg didn’t count the Meat, but she was finished long before me. I had bones to pick out and notes to take.

With regards to the Lamb:

Varying sizes and texture, not melt in the mouth – was announced.

As she ate, so Marg declared that she prefers – by far – Curry that is not – soupy. Well she has eaten at some of the finest Curry Houses across many nations.

I took a Soupçon of the Masala. Ah-ha! This was much more potent, enough to make Marg cough. The hoped for, and distinctive, South Indian Curry Taste was there. Peppery indeed.

Marg couldn’t bring herself to pour her remaining Masala over the Rice. Rather than see it wasted, the Peppery Masala crossed the table. And so Hector’s Chettinad was given a much needed boost. Marg’s verdict:

A good kick with black pepper dominating. The Veg Rice was a lovely contrast to the sauce.

Of the thirty five restaurants defined in Curry-Heute as Glasgow’s – City Centre, fourteen (40%) have closed in the time of this Blog. Impressive as some venues may be, not one has made it to – Glasgow’s Top Rated. They are not visited oft, kept for – special occasions – when ambience becomes a determining factor. Glasgow’s – City Centre – is not the Hector’s Curry playground.

The Bill

£34.96   Better than being in the Merchant City.

The Aftermath

On holding the new Oppo aloft to show the review of Kama Sutra, ten years ago, today, the hoped for impact was not realised. The Calling Card was given to the lady who passed it on to her male colleague for scrutiny. Do people reviewing Curry Houses not introduce themselves?

Hector needs to cross the river. 

Taste of Chennai Menu

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Glasgow – The Wee Curry Shop – Buccleuch Street – An Open And Shut Case

Having closed in 2020, The Wee Curry Shop (7 Buccleuch Street, Glasgow G3 6SJ) opened again towards the end of last year. As Hector understands it, the people who ran it, as part of the Mother India chain, have their own Curry Cottage around the corner on Cambridge Street. Competition.

Due to a lesser sporting event, Curry-Heute was early today. Dr. Stan, yes he who avoided all Curry in Manchester last week, arranged to meet Hector at Bombaywalla at 13.00. Surprisingly, Bombaywalla was closed, though later, Mags did find a note online stating this is temporary, until February 12. I led Dr. Stan towards Curry Cottage, but then sprinted ahead, sort of, to see if The Wee Curry Shop was open. It was. Clearly, opening times have changed since the relaunch, Hector’s preferred mid-afternoon Curry is now an option. Visit #3 to Curry Cottage will have to wait, it was time for Visit #3 to The Wee Curry Shop, some ten years after the last one.

Entering at 13.10, four tables were occupied already. A 13.00 opening time, impressive. The waiter showed us to a small table far left, adjacent to a corner table for four. All diners were crammed on to the tables for two, leaving space towards the centre of the room, and the windows. Today, Hector was not window dressing. For the record, the tables for two at the always excellent Mother India’s Cafe are appreciably larger.

Evidently, we were sat in what was formerly the legal premises next door, The Wee Curry Shop has doubled in size. When we departed, eighty seven minutes later, the same tables remained occupied, the chap clearing and wiping as more diners arrived. Why did he keep people standing when so many tables were free? Why so crammed?

The menu was brought, the Lunch Menu: £8.00 or £10.00 for one or two courses, respectively. Having dismissed the Vegetarian and Chicken options, this left – Simple Lamb Curry – and – Lamb Mince and New Potato, hardly riveting. I asked for the Main Menu (below), it was pretty much the same with the added option – Garlic Lamb and Mushrooms (£12.50). OK, one presumes larger portions, but with Rice, why pay more when a Starter was in the offing?

Vegetable Pakora, Simple Lamb Curry, Rice, was the obvious choice from the Lunch Menu. I suggested we share an Aloo Gobi with Peas (£8.50) from the Main Menu. Dr. Stan was on board with this, he added a Fresh Orange (£2.80).

No Drinks Menu was actually provided, so no Sparkling Water for Hector, tap would suffice. Other diners were tucking into Lager, one couple ordered what could have been Champagne. Why peak so early?

There was a slight taste of bleach from the tap water, but nothing like as strong as south of the river. Is nobody else noticing this? In West Dunbartonshire, our water is tasteless, and I drink loads of it, albeit with added bubbles.

Service is not something that Curry-Heute generally concentrates on, this Blog is about the food. However, today, everything seemed to take an eternity. Were they a man short? The waiter was rarely visible, hence people having to wait for tables to be cleared. There were two staff in the open kitchen, the Menu is limited, options few, so what was taking them so long to turn out the fayre?

Vegetable Pakora

I recall in the years before Curry-Heute, BC-H, yes there was such a time, being served an insulting potion of Pakora at The Wee Curry Shop (Ashton Lane). To receive six decent sized pieces today was therefore a relief. The Chilli Sauce seemed better than the usual. If the Pakora had been double fried, then this was not apparent, well cooked not overcooked. Dr. Stan remarked on the crispiness of the Vegetables, more than once. That the food was hot, and the Pakora Spicy, had the Hector won.

I haven’t had Pakora for a while – Dr. Stan informed me – I enjoyed that.

Six pieces, tasty and much appreciated.

From my corner, I could see much of the goings on. The smokers were out as often as they were in. Champagne at lunchtime, OK for some. The adjacent father and daughter were minutes ahead of us, two other tables ahead of them. Why so long? At 14.00 we still didn’t have our mains. Hector is prepared to wait, is used to doing so, for Karahi Gosht but Simple Lamb Curry? Surely, this is just out of The Big Pot. Of course this is a Mother India outlet, so where is the food actually cooked?

Our Curry and Rice arrived eventually, The waiter had an air of completion as he presented the Rice. I reminded him about the Aloo Gobi.

Simple Lamb Curry

We’re at a Mother India, the company that transformed Curry in Glasgow, educating the masses …including those of us who had yet to try the Curry Cafes across the river. Why – Simple?

Five decent sized pieces of Lamb sat in a Soupy Masala, not Shorva by the strict definition (cf. Sheerin Palace). That it was served in a soup plate was therefore appropriate. The Basmati was a sensible, manageable portion. Was one meant to ask for a dinner plate? There was no more room on the table. Tipping Rice on top of Curry just feels – wrong. It looks stupid. My neighbour had a Roti, I bet he regretted that.

Aloo Gobi with Peas

This looked the part, suitably Dry, with a Thick Masala, such as there was. Dunking this in the Soupy Masala would have been sacrilege. I arranged the Potatoes, Cauliflower and Peas around the edge of the soup plate. I can’t say I was aware of the Peas thereafter. I still had a significant amount of Rice to add.

More space, a dinner plate, why so crammed? Time to eat.

Simple Lamb Curry – there was no big blast of – anything. Had this been The Village, their unique telltale Flavours would have hit the palate, even in their Lunchtime Menu. Not here. In time I would unearth a Green Cardamom and one whole Peppercorn, but these could have been in the Aloo Gobi. The Lamb was delightfully Soft, but was not giving back any more Flavour other than of the Meat itself. Again, surely, this had been sat in The Big Pot and should have had time to absorb?

For a Mother India Curry, one has to question why this was on the menu.

The Aloo Gobi saved the day. Hector always tries to have Diversity, not just Meat and Masala. The Potatoes and Cauliflower did just that. The Texture of both was spot on, the Potatoes had visibly absorbed the Masala in which they had been sat.

There was a powerful Earthy Flavour from the Minimal Masala, even the Coriander Leaves hit the palate. The Potatoes did exactly what the Meat did not. We Had Seasoning, still moderate Spice, but this was simply streets ahead of the Lamb Curry.

Then there was the spare Rice, I dumped it on top.With the Meat almost gone, I was left with Masala soaked Rice, I put on my Biryani hat. A more potent Masala would have enhanced the experience, still, this wasn’t too shabby. Dr. Stan’s verdict:

A Simple Curry, quite liked the spice, a pleasant heat to it. It lived up to its name, good enough for all that.

Given the pedigree of the chain, Hector expected so much more. There used to be – Specials – to complement the menu, why such a limited range?

The Bill

£31.30  We had been well fed, eventually.

The Aftermath

A Calling Card had to be issued. Who knows where it well end up? The waiter did confirm that this was still – Mother India. I did go out of my way to praise Mother India’s Cafe, but as far as the mother shop is concerned, maybe it’s time to give them another chance, it has been thirteen years.

On Sauchiehall Street, there were balloons outside Taste of Chennai, the rebranded Kama Sutra. I feel a Fish Chettinad coming on. Dr. Stan said I missed another Curry House nearby, has Southern Spice gone? Hector Holmes is on the case. It’s good to see so many Curry Houses in the vicinity of Sauchiehall Street, who wants to pay Merchant City prices? Still, as those who follow these pages already know: the most authentic Curry is served south of the River Clyde.

The Wee Curry Shop Menu 2023

 

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Manchester – Kabana – A Takeway, Glasgow Bound!

When heading back to Scotland from Manchester, Hector tries to find a train, at the right price, which gives the option for Curry at lunchtime, today, something different.

Yesterday, after the magnificent Fish Karahi creation at Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England), I asked Rizwan if he could pack a Takeaway such that it could go on a train and not have the passengers staring daggers. Rizwan suggested that if he took out two portions of Karahi Lamb (£6.00) first thing this morning, they would cool and so lose their pungency.

I placed the Order last night as a reminder, and dared to ask the question regarding Karahi Lamb that has long needed asking:

I’ll ask, despite its excellence, in what way is it Karahi?

Well to be honest when we first opened it was called lamb masala. Only changed the name to Karahi about ten years ago.

Ten years ago

As it happens, today is the tenth anniversary of Hector first setting foot in Kabana. It’s also Visit #49, no Curry House outside of Glasgow has reached #50. Next visit, the day will have to be marked. Ten years ago, the Karahi Lamb bore little resemblance to that which is presently served. Karahi Lamb 2013 (above) was decidedly Soupy, the Masala approaching Shorva. The Flavours impressed, this was significantly better than what was served in the other Northern Quarter Curry Cafes. However, I do not believe the – killer taste – was there, that evolved thereafter. If someone wants to read through the previous 48 posts, then maybe the first – Wow! – can be precisely dated. The search device (top right) gives Steve as having uttered the first – Wow! – in December 2018.


Checking out of the Ancoats Travelodge today at noon, Clive accompanied me on the walk round to Kabana. A busy time, Rizwan was initially dealing with other Takeaway and Delivery customers.

It was soon Hector’s turn. Two separate portions of Karahi Lamb were carefully packed. Rizwan offered me the – foliage – also, but these I can do at home.

The Bill

£12.00    Is this the first ever Glasgow-bound Takeaway from Kabana?

The Curry was not to be eaten tonight, but Sunday when Marg heads north for a couple of days.

Interlude

Late night munchies are inevitable on these trips. This week’s visits to delhi2go are blogged already. Al-Faisal Tandoori, the daytime fallback when Kabana is closed, still advertise themselves as being open until the small hours. They are not. Two Curry venues, either side of the Ancoats Travelodge, are open late: Chilli’s and Golden Tandoori.

Golden Tandoori predates delhi2go; during Covid, they ripped out their seats to create a Takeaway only. Only two tables have been re-installed. I have not been back since Covid. Chilli’s, I have been inside to study, but as yet have not bought Curry. Again, seating is limited there. Next time in Manchester, but Rizwan has also reminded me I have still not been down to Lahori Karahi. Even Hector has his limits.

Sunday Dinner

I weighed the two portions of Karahi Lamb, a kilo, impressive. One went in the freezer.

The reheating of the Karahi was done on the hob, slowly, so as to let the heat permeate the Meat. There was enough Masala that the contents of the pot were not going to dry out. Never use a microwave, the Salt goes ballistic, destroying the Flavour.

*

The – foliage – had to be prepared: diced Ginger, sliced, large Green Chillies and copious Coriander. Fried Rice with Peas and Mushrooms would provide further Diversity.

Thus the Karahi Lamb was suitably dressed.

Wonderful! The Seasoning registered first on the palate, strangely the Cloves were last to do so. The Lamb was up to its usual outstanding level of quality, the careful reheating had paid off. All the usual Kabana Flavours were there. The temptation of having portion #2 had to be resisted.  The joy that the eating of this Curry brings, has to be experienced, to be believed.  And I now have another tucked away!

The first Kabana post for 2023 stated – One Cannot Improve Upon Perfection. Today, the Curry remained – perfect – but with the extra Vegetables mixed through the Rice, perhaps the Hector achieved this. Wow! Wow! and  thrice – Wow!

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Manchester – Kabana – Hector creates a “Fish Karahi” – and it goes up to “11”

Day #4 in Manchester, if anyone thinks these trips are not demanding, then read the previous posts. After an explicable 38 hours without Curry, Hector arrived at a quiet Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England) at 14.00, the lunchtime rush was over. What to have?

It would have been easy to simply once again have the consistently wonderful Karahi Lamb. From the depths of the imagination came:

Rizwan, I fancy some Fish (£4.80), with sauce, on Rice (£1.50)?

I can do that – was the positive reply.

I took a seat mid-room, a handful of solo diners occupied other tables. As ever, they would be recycled, there was the usual steady stream of Takeaway customers. Where does the Curry go, back to the office?

It was back in 2016 when I had my first experience of the Fried Fish at Kabana. Then, Rizwan described it as being typically served with Salad. I asked for Rice too, as Ballast, plus some Sauce, for moisture. As much as it was enjoyed, even to the point of – recommendation – surprisingly, I have not had the Fish at Kabana since.

Today, Hector was having – the works – and more, as events would transpire.

Fried Fish on Rice, with Salad, minimal Masala

A large piece of Coley (I asked) in Batter sat atop the Rice. Around the periphery was Salad (£0.50), Spiced Onions and Raita. The light coloured Masala, less than in 2017, had come from the Mixed Veg pot, I assumed. There’s more.

The three pots were brought to the table, Hector would have his – foliage – sliced Green Chillies, Diced Ginger and abundant Coriander.

Before I had the opperchancity to tuck in, the proceedings were interrupted. Mags sat down with Rice and Three. Not Hector’s thing, and today, no review or comments.

Rice and Three

With Hector’s plate fully dressed, it was time.

The Fish was impressively – ThickCod is what I believed at the time, Scottish Haddock ain’t like this. The Fish retained its integrity but broke up into flakes easily with the fork. This was a Texture I really liked.

Size matters, and this was a satisfyingly large piece of Fish. One couldn’t help but think back to the insulting portion served recently at Travancore (Aberdeen). The Coley had retained it moistness, which was complemented by the Raita and wet Salad Vegetables. The Batter was suitably Spiced and gave off plenty of Flavour as did, wait for it – the Coley itself! Fish that tastes of Fish, not to be taken for granted.

Bursting with Flavour – was noted, but as I realised last time, this was not a Fish Curry. What to do?

More Masala was required, significantly more. The light coloured Masalas from the Mixed Veg or Chicken would not guarantee the impact I sought. There was only one thing for it, Hector approached the counter once more:

Rizwan, can I have a bowl of Masala from the (boneless) Karahi Lamb, please?

Moments later this was being poured over the Fish & Rice. This creation now looked like – Curry.

The Masala gave a boost of heat to the contents of the plate. The Spice Level was also increased, and this was after I had been tackling the Green Chillies. This was a definite – Wow! – moment, the best of both worlds.

The intensity of Flavour from the Fish had not diminished, the (Lamb) Masala simply turned it up a notch, to – eleven!

The next ten minutes or so was Curry Heaven. I could eat the Karahi Lamb (on-the-bone) here every day, finally, I have an alternative. Fish in a Meat infused Masala, they’ll throw Hector out The Brownies for this.

As happens here occasionally, I was beaten by the quantity of Rice.

If permitted, I shall certainly be having this again. Alternatively, Rizwan may accept the challenge and produce a comparable Fish Karahi. With – Curry – this good, who needs Lamb?

The Bill

£8.30    Worth every penny.

The Aftermath

Quality Fish Curry is so hard to get, your Fish was wonderful – I assured Rizwan.

It was at this point I was told that the Fish was – Coley.

Coley, sources say, is a member of the Pollock family, or Saithe in Scotland. Saithe, is the only Fish I have ever caught (Islay, 1976), unless Curryspondent Neil knows differently. Saithe, I encountered in Oranienburg as Rotbarschfilet (Coal Fish) and found it to be particularly tasty, a pity about the rest of the Curry.

I have found a contradictory source which claims that Coley is a cousin of Cod – a cheaper substitute. I have never been a fan of Cod, as cooked by Mother, the Texture of Coley way better. This I shall be enquiring about in future at Asian grocers.

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