For years, Hector has been celebrating the wonder that is the Tomato-based Masala, an integral part of authentic Punjabi Karahi. The method has been hinted at by Chefs, previous attempts have fallen short. Creating the rich texture and killer taste has remained a mystery, my attempt this evening may well have cracked it.
The absolute simplicity of Namkeen Karahi has suggested that less is more, it was therefore a case of what to leave out. Studying a variety of sources, it was decided to abandon many of the ingredients that would appear in a standard Curry Recipe. Turmeric, Clove, Cinnamon, Cardamom and Onion would be omitted. Tomatoes, loads of, Green Chillies, Chilli Powder, Cumin Seeds, Coriander Seeds, Ginger and Garlic, Methi and fresh Coriander would suffice. There was one trick with the Tomatoes that I had never tried before, would this really make the difference?
To create a smooth Masala without blending on the hob, I blitzed fresh Ginger in some Ginger paste. This was added to the hot Oil with Garlic paste. Today I was using my aluminium karahi, a pot used sparingly as everything sticks. Similarly, teaspoons of Cumin Seeds and Coriander Seeds were ground, these to be added later. This was a minimalist – Garam Masala.
The majority of the Tomatoes had been frozen to preserve them during our last trip. These defrosted Tomatoes would prove to be particularly suited to the great trick. The halved Tomatoes were cooked in the Oil, Garlic and Ginger for ten minutes, no stirring.
With kitchen tongs, the skins were pulled off, a much simpler task than I thought this would be. In time, even the fresh Tomatoes released their skins. Previously, I have blitzed fresh Tomatoes when attempting to make this style of Masala, the result has been an unsavoury white mass.
A generous squirt of Tomato Puree felt appropriate, all of this before introducing the Spices. The Tomato skins removed, I stirred for the first time. It was then as if the Tomatoes wanted to become a Masala. The difference astonished, the Masala simply formed before my eyes, and no Onions.
Nothing was sticking to the karahi, this was a first. Onions may be the cause of the sticking, I concluded. A Curry without Onions, no tears either. Everything was going well.
Teaspoons of Kashmiri Chilli and a more fiery one were added along with the ground Cumin and Coriander Seeds. Everything Hector cooks has ground, coarse, Black Pepper and a sufficiency of Salt. In they went, a good stir, and I was still surprised that nothing was sticking to the karahi. The Oil began to separate, the telltale sign that the Masala was cooking.
There had to be Herbs. I managed to rein in the Methi, a modest tablespoon compared to the forest of Coriander. Three sliced Green Chillies should be sufficient, no need to go crazy.
A mere twenty five minutes had passed and I had the makings of a worthy Tomato-based Masala before me. To add Yoghurt or not. Some say no, I believe the majority are for it. Earlier in the year, I overdid the Yoghurt, today a tablespoon. However, before adding, I let the whole mass cool for some twenty minutes to avoid curdling. After adding the Yoghurt, I brought the temperature back up and cooked the Herbs for a further ten minutes.
Time to taste. Oh yes!
Note the line drawn across the page.
This is where so many recipes and video demonstrations fudge reality. Lamb does not cook in twenty minutes. Cooking Lamb in the Masala is going to burn the Masala. The Meat has to be precooked. Today I added leftover Lamb from earlier in the year. The Recipe is here, and yes, I admit, this Lamb was cooked in Onion, Tomatoes, and many of the ingredients I had eschewed today. It’s all about the Sauce, I was confident that my Tomato-rich Masala would dominate.
Time to eat.
I wasn’t making Bread today, so Rice it had to be. For once, my Rice let me down. I ignored the microwave – ding – and did not drain the Rice, it went a bit stodgy.
Foliage smothered the Karahi Gosht with Rice, here we go.
Hector’s Curry tends to turn out tasting like – Hector’s Curry. Finally, the breakthrough, this tasted nothing like I have ever cooked before. The true Desi Masala Flavour was there, Karahi Palace flashed through my mind. Steady on, Hector. 
Actually, it was that good. The Spice was far from stressful, the Seasoning a la Hector. The Lamb, thoroughly cooked at a previous time, did come across as though it had only met the Masala, it had. The Flavours from the Lamb were therefore a counterpoint to those from the Masala. The best of both Worlds?
I can see this being repeated soonest. Marg is in Aberdoom, a neighbour became a guinea pig. I’m proud of this – was my justification.
Tinned Tomatoes have formed the base of so much of my cooking. Fresh Tomatoes, skins removed, clearly create a better result. My next Spag Bol may test this. Tins no more? Maybe we’ll have no choice. Sky News report that UK Tomato growers are not going to bother planting them this year due to spiralling energy costs. Maybe it’ll be back to Onion-based Masala next year.
In the meantime, there might be a bit of Karahi cooking in the coming weeks.
As I took my seat, I recognised a well kent face that I hadn’t seen since before Lockdown #1. Behold, Curryspondent John! I wonder how much Curry we have eaten between us since our last meeting?
established through time, Lamb Desi Qorma was available on demand, albeit – Boneless. 
The Mushroom Rice was a decent plateful. With Fresh Mushrooms, enough Diversity on offer. Every grain of Rice would be eaten. 
It’s good to be home. The Coriander and Ginger Strips topped the mass of Meat and Masala. The Meat count was into double figures; the bone count was four, two of which were – Sucky! I left some of the Wonderful Masala in the karahi for the end game. 
When Curry-Heute was conceived, I had to stop eating this Curry twice a week. There wouldn’t have been much of a Blog otherwise.
A whole Clove was taken in the first mouthful, quite dramatic. This took the palate in the direction of Manchester Curry. As I ate on, so the warmth of Flavour developed. The Seasoning was decidedly – brave. Marg was witnessing the degree of my pleasure. 
The Tomato-rich Masala released some of its Oil on the periphery of that which remained. Almonds? I saw none, perhaps ground and mixed in? I was less aware of the Citrus which I enjoyed so much in my early years at 
Marg’s Coffee impressed. Accompanied by both a biscuit and a chocolate mint, she felt this was the treat she sought:
We were the first customers of the day at 12.30. I had the Oppo at the ready with the photo of 
The waiter brought the pot to the table with a foil lid in situ. After the photo, he then stirred up the contents of the pot to create an even more photogenic Biryani. I concluded the Vegetables had been steamed in the pot with the Rice. Would this work in a microwave?
There was enough Rice for two generous portions. Carrots were the prominent Vegetable. Peas, Broccoli, minimal Potato, Cauliflower and slivers of both 
Ginger strips and the merest sprinkling of Coriander sat atop the Masala. As I decanted the Curry to my plate, so the efficacy of the Desi Masala became evident. This was a classic Tomato-based Masala. The Mutton was on-the-bone, actually this was the second time I have had Lamb this way in Barcelona, cf 
Oh yes – as Churchill says in a well known TV ad. This was it, the veritable Desi Masala. The Seasoning registered immediately, bang on! The Spice was not challenging, that would have taken some feat given last week’s 
Back to the Masala, no Whole Spices, nothing been given away, however, one could not attain this depth of Flavour without the correct blend of Herbs and Spices. If only I knew the secret. I used the Roti to scoop up the remnants of the Masala in the pot – Mmmm. I knew I would have to abandon the Bread if I was going to finish all on my plate. Only traces of Oil were present in the entire Dish. Only near the end did I realise that I had but the two bones. There was still a lot of Meat shrouding the Sucky Bone, my final pleasure. 
What appeared to be Dessicated Coconut topped the Orange-Yellow Masala. The appearance was significantly different from 
A creamy and rich buttery sauce with plenty of Chicken. The Vegetable Biryani was full of Peppers, Carrots, Peas, and Broccoli which gave the dish a variety of textures and flavours making this a wonderful experience.
Our host turned on the lights and invited us to inspect 
After ten days of enjoying Desi Curry firstly in 
Acqua Frizante (€2.00) was sorted first. The Italians do not overcharge for water, another 750ml bottle soon followed. The menu showed seven Lamb Dishes, Marg would have the Keema Matar (€12.00) accompanied by a Chapatti (€2.50). This is a ridiculous price for a Chappati. 
The slice of Lemon sat on top of two whole Green Chillies. A Vindaloo with extra Chillies. The blended Masala had a decent viscosity. I counted the solids believing them all to be cubes of Fish. It was Marg who noticed that some of what I was arranging on the Rice was actually Potato. Six good sized pieces of Fish and three bits of Potato was enough, I suppose. The white Fish retained its form, I understand that this was – Swordfish – possibly a first on Curry-Heute.
The Spice Level was fierce, definitely a Vindaloo if one employs that scale. The Seasoning was less apparent such that this Curry had no real depth of Flavour. 
I took some of the Pickle and stirred it in to the Masala. The Seasoning increased dramatically, the Spice Level was also tempered, and there was suddenly way more Flavour in the Curry. The rest of the Pickle was employed, the Fish Vindaloo-Achari was a much better creation. 
A direct comparison of the two Breads was then possible. Drier, crispier, the Roti, for once, proved to be the better option. 
The Coriander Topping was generous almost – foliage. The Mince was ground coarsely. Whilst the surface of the Keema looked suitably Dry, the Oil became increasingly visible as Marg made progress. An Oil table? 
Marg’s account:
In we went, to check the place out. A large group of Asians occupied most of the main dining area, a private party? Apparently not, but this is evidently where the – Indians – eat in 
Marg and Hector have left 
Trastevere
The nuns departed, there was even a smile in my direction. 
When the chap brought the food, expectation levels were raised further, this all looked wonderful. Behold the White Paratha, as served at too few venues I know of in Scotland. As ever, it was small. 
The softness, was present, the subtle flakiness, excellent. I was tempted to order another immediately, we had more than enough food in front of us. 
The Vegetable Biryani was topped with a Poppadom, Marg would have this. On the edge of the plate was a spoonful of something unknown. We took plates of Rice from the mound. There was plenty to share, more, but not an excessive amount a la mainland Europe. Oh, we are in mainland Europe. 
A solitary Green Chilli, Cauliflower, Courgette, Carrot, Potato and abundant Khadu were present. In time we would uncover Cinnamon Bark and Green Cardamoms. A plate of Raita was also provided – for the Biryani. Potentially a meal in its own right, the perfect accompaniment, adding a diversity of Textures to the overall meal, just the way Hector enjoys his Curry. 
The Meat was piled high in the bowl, its volume meaning the brown Shorva would in no way be excessive. Shorva yes, Soupy Curry, no. On decanting, there was a further moment of joy when I realised that the Mutton was on-the-bone. This is a rarity in Europe. I arranged the Sucky Bone on the pinnacle of my assembly, surely this was going to be a memorable Curry. 
The distinctive Flavour of Mutton registered, a good start. The Seasoning was there, the Spice was initially modest until I dared to eat the whole Green Chilli. This upped the level significantly. The overall Flavour came under the all embracing – earthy and distinctive. 
This was something quite different from the norm. Hector-the-analyst was called into action. The Masala was too thin to have been Onion based let alone see a Tomato. Gravy – might be apposite here. Alarm bells were ringing, I’ve encountered this a few times, Thankfully, – Bisto – this was not, but what was it? 
There’s more. I sampled the Chutney-like stuff which accompanied the Biryani. Pickle! Oh yes! Start again. As Marg was taking care of the Raita, so I dealt with the Pickle. Mixing this in to the Shorva soaked Rice added another dimension to the Flavour of this meal. 
This Curry was markedly different. Here was a recognisable Masala, complete with an Oily residue, therefore closer to what one expects. Nigella/Onion Seeds were mixed in along with a cooked single Green Chilli. Three large pieces of Fish sat in the Masala. The Fish was on-the-bone, at least there were no eyes staring up at Marg. Another piece of something that was not Fish was scrutinised, Ginger. Why serve Ginger in this manner, surely it should be finely chopped and mixed through the Masala? 
Smokiness – was Marg’s first comment This is what I anticipated, a good South Indian Fish Curry taste. I wiped a bit of Paratha in the Masala, Smoky this was not. This had the classic appearance of a decent Fish Curry, but was puzzling us both. What were we tasting? In the end I gave up, let’s just say the Flavour was unique.
A different flavour – began Marg – earthy, with pieces of Fish, on-the-bone, making it fiddly to eat. I enjoyed the Vegetable Biryani with the yoghurt. 
I presented the Calling Card and showed the Curry-Heute website on the ever so reliable Oppo. Once again I mentioned – Chettinad. I had the feeling that this was one of those conversations where the recipient was simply smiling hoping the conversation would soon end.As we departed, so we noticed that there was a railway line running under the glass floor. Why did this create a sense of deja vu?
Kofta Anda (€4.50) was ordered, this includes the Pakistani Roti (€0.40). Marg mentioned Chickpeas, once again I dissuaded her. We didn’t spot Samosa on the menu, but the waiter confirmed they were available. Samosas for Marg. 
My food came first complete with a plate of Salad and Raita, again inclusive in the price of the Order. 
Two Kofta and one hard boiled Egg as in the model experienced at 
Consequently, the first dip of Bread in the Masala was another wonderful moment. The sprinkling of Coriander appeared modest. The blast of Herbs took me aback, if Wednesday was excellent this was something else, another – Wow! The Spice, Seasoning and Flavours were all spot on. I would encounter a Black Cardamom and solitary Black Peppercorn, whole Spices, the sign of quality.
Two Vegetable Samosas were smothered in Yoghurt and Ketchup. There was a Salad in there too, plus something that would finally change my opinion on whole Chickpeas. 
The Chickpeas were shrouded in a Mash which I initially took be mashed Chana. However, I note on the menu, the presence of Daal Chana (€3.50). This was certainly what was smothering the Samosas, remember them? 
Marg used the Raita as an accompaniment more than the Yoghurt. With the small Salad on the table, plus what came with her Dish, Marg was well served with Vegetables. The Samosas were almost incidental:
It’s a couple of years since Marg and Hector sampled the fayre at 
As we entered at 13.00, there was a smile of recognition from Mein Host:
The menu was brought. Shockeroony, the prices had gone up, a whole Euro on every dish, or 20%. In other words: what I consider to be the actual rate of inflation. This modest increase also shows why the lesser paid do not want % increases, but flat rates. 
With fewer tables on the ground floor, I managed an uninterrupted view of the counter and the Bread chef, busy rolling out the dough. Soon, the waiter was assembling the array on the table. 
A Salad, once again featuring two large Pickled Chillies was accompanied by a Raita. Today I thought the better of having the Chillies. The Bread arrived, a pair, light and puffy, what were these exactly? Turning crispy as they cooled, not a Naan. And not the wonderfully soft Pitta/Naan crossover I have particularly enjoyed here previously. Was this the actual Pakistani Roti? Whatever, they are not listed on the menu, and are inclusive along with the Salad and Raita. Fancy paying for Salad. 
A decent size, two was sensible. By the time Marg assembled the Salad and drizzled the Raita, she had a veritable plateful, and all for €2.00. 
Two Kofta and one hard boiled Egg, yes one Egg is …
The burst of Flavour from the Kofta took me by surprise, this was intense. Well Seasoned with a Cumin aftertaste – was recorded. The Masala gave off a hint of Citrus. I couldn’t tell if this was already there or was a consequence of Marg’s exuberant squeezing of the Lemon over the Salad, and everywhere else. The Shorva of course had its own distinctive Flavours, therefore when taken with the Kofta, created a flavoursome synergy and a huge blast of Spice. Once again, Hector’s throat was registering serious Spice. I have often wondered why the Egg features, today I may have come to realise why. The Masala and Egg offered respite from the Masala and Kofta combination. 
Between us, we managed only one Roti, once they turn crispy, the attraction has gone. However, the initial Bread and Masala was also a pleasure worth experiencing.
The Bill
Twelve hours in 
With so many choices in the area to the north of Psiri, I decided that having had the 
Call it a Pakistani Roti if they want, the Bread in these Curry Cafes always impresses. A Naan by any other name, two were brought. Served whole, hot, light and fluffy doesn’t even begin to describe the wonder of this Bread. We both ate more than was sensible given how much food was on our plates. 
Lots of green and white, after last night’s footay score, I wasn’t bothered. The Cucumber was buried, maybe not living up to the pictorial grandeur of the menu. Green Olives, with stones in, as expected the cheaper bitter variety. Marg’s verdict:
The Cinnamon Stick stood out in the Masala, its powerful aroma noticeable as the karahi was placed on the table. I counted the Meat into double figures. The Bone count was not excessive, the Sucky Bone was a joy. 
Dipping the wonderful Bread into the clearly Tomato-based Masala, there was an explosion of Flavour on the palate. Large Green Chillies had been sliced and cooked in. When the more Oily part of the Masala hit the back of the throat it took me back to the – rawness – of Glasgow Curry in the 1960s. This Karahi was taking no prisoners.
Towards the base of the melange, I found strips of Onion, however, these were way outnumbered by the sea of Tomato Seeds. Pure Punjabi Taste – the front of the menu declares. I concur.
With – The Company – due to meet at Koelschip Yard this Friday afternoon at 16.00, there was the opperchancity for a 15.00 visit to 
Arriving early, I took the booth table at the far end of the room. It has been a while since I sat here, my usual spots were taken by people waiting for Takeaway. This was a significant feature of the visit, at one point a family took a table, weans running wild, they were not dining in. Eventually the mother had the wherewithal to rebuke the weans before taking them outside. Strangely, another family took up a major space mid room. They appeared to order, the table was set, moments later, they disappeared. I’ll never know what happened there. 
With the Chilli Sauce, the Chapli has become a Hector must have at 
Seven large pieces of Haddock were cooked in a Spicy Batter with traces of Coriander. It looks so simple, and Yadgar’s is the finest example of the genre ever encountered. When Naveed brought a pot of the heated Chilli Sauce, Hector was in his element.
It was time to address the Salad, the Spiced Onions and the Pickled Chillies were the standout. The Fish was beautiful, and most importantly, tasted of – Fish. This one can never take for granted. The Spice Level of the Batter was not demanding, it’s all about the Flavours, subtle. The Pickled Chillies rattled the palate. 
Five Chicken Wings were presented, significantly larger than one generally encounters. 
Topped with Mint Leaves and containing slices of a Citrus Fruit, the multicoloured Rice had a sufficient level of moistness. In Glasgow back in the 1970s, Biryani was always served with a Curry sauce. I hope we have been weaned off this. 
The Citrus looked too small to be Lime. Was this the Shatkora which I first encountered at 
Two large Wholemeal Chapattis, delightfully light and thin. I hadn’t planned on having Bread, the gap had rejuvenated the appetite. 
I love this, and to the best of my knowledge it doesn’t appear often enough in the Daily Specials. The Spice Level was brutal, some may have struggled, not Hector. The Chapatti tempered the Spice. The classic 
offered different Textures. Then there was the Masala Mash itself, a fourth entity, the motherlode of the Flavours. The Flavours, the Spice, the Seasoning, did I mention how Spicy this was? I should be here every time it’s prepared. With Meat and Fish to start, this Sabzi Curry is really all one needs thereafter … writes the man who will no doubt order Karahi Gosht next time out. 
Meat and Potatoes in a Shorva, this is how authentic Aloo Gosht is served. I’ve no doubt had it here in the past when on display. I enjoy Shorva when appropriate. This is Mags’ favourite Curry. It’s what she always orders, the antithesis of Hector’s preferred Dry-Thick Masala. 
Just the right heat – I was told – Lamb so tender it melts in the mouth, well worth the wait.
The Bill
Curry was the last thing on Hector’s mind. Enough already. When The Man from Bradford assumed Curry-Heute, Hector initially declined. 
Ricky had Kofta in mind, not available today. Kofta is on the menu, I’ve never seen it in all my years of visiting 
How many times have I reviewed this? Certainly more than any other Curry, anywhere. Ginger Strips and Coriander sat atop the Meat and Masala, a good lake of Oil was collecting on one side of the karahi. I decided to return to the norm and eat directly from the karahi, no decanting to the plate today. 
As is the way at 
In the time leading up to the birth of Curry-Heute,