Midnight Curry in Bradford, last month Hector and Marg visited Sheesh Mahal over two nights. Tonight, it was decided to give the other stalwart – International (40-42 Morley Street, Bradford, BD7 1BA) another go.
Another go? Once upon a time there would have been no reticence, a visit to International would guarantee the warmest of welcomes plus of course, excellent Curry.
The era of Bashir, Khalid and Ali is long gone.
Entering just before midnight, I stopped to take a photo of the glass door. As well as the photo being a work of art, note the opening times. 11.30 – I have been arguing for all day opening for years. The payback is not being open all night, for that there is the Sheesh Mahal. Lunchtime Curry at International, next trip.
In the most recent visits to International, the intensity of Flavour in my chosen Curry has varied. I consulted a well known and reliable Curry Blog to establish the last time I was truly impressed here. Lamb Nawabi Khana (£11.95) is described as both – complex – and – Desi. It was definitely time to try this again.
Inclusive Chapattis/Naan etc are no more at International. I would ask for a Chilli & Coriander Naan despite this not being on the Menu per se. The all embracing box should guarantee flexibility.
Marg, who only had Samosas during our lunchtime visit to Kashmir Restaurant across the street, was still not ready for Curry. Special Vegetable Pakora (£4.50) would suffice.
One of the many young waiters buzzing around the ground floor dining area, took the Order. I got my – no Peppers – in just in case. Capsicum has never been an issue at International, better to be safe.
A group of young chaps took a table within my field of vision. One chap had Curry, Naan and Chips. Chips with Curry I have never understood, who has Potato with Curry? Is Aloo Gosht on the International Menu? Anyway, good on him. Oh to be able to eat that quantity of carbohydrates, writes the man who is always ready to share a kilo of Karahi Gosht, a veritable protein overdose.
Special Vegetable Pakora
Four Bhaji-sized pieces of Pakora, hardly – Special. And certainly not when compared with Dumbarton’s famous Delhi Darbar who dish out mountains of the stuff. The accompanying Salad was ever so modest.
The batter coating looked somewhat bizarre, and certainly on the crispy side.
My Pakora is a little bit doughy – was Marg’s immediate observation, her concluding remarks:
Four large pieces of Pakora, with a well done taste. They were full of vegetables, but a little doughy in certain areas. I enjoyed the Raita which was necessary to moisten the dish, they were too dry otherwise.
Lamb Nawabi Khana
Topped with a decent amount of fresh Coriander, and a good slice of Lemon, the abundant Meat protruded through the Thick Masala. There were pieces of Tomato cooking in there also. With the Oil collecting on the periphery of the karahi, this was ticking all of Hector’s – Desi – boxes. The Meat, impossible to count unless it was decanted, was on the large end of – Bradford small. This had the look of the full Bradford Curry Experience.
The Chilli & Coriander Naan was void of Chilli, so Chef was not so flexible then. For the record, the Coriander Naan was £2.95. With loads of mini burnt blisters, risen towards puffy at the edges, and no sign of Garlic, this was close to the Hector idyll. A pity then about the missing Chillies. The Naan was large, well worth the price, and was clearly never going to be finished, even with Marg’s help. I bet the young chap sitting nearby could have polished this off after his feast. When a Naan is this good, too much will be eaten, the challenge is maximum Naan intake, but eat all the Curry.
‘Kinnell! Behold – The Big Bradford Blast! Here was – the taste – that one seeks in a Bradford Curry. The squeezed Lemon added Citrus to the impressive level of Spice. Maybe I didn’t need the extra Chillies in the Naan after all. The Flavour of the Lamb itself came across. Marg took a Soupçon – Earthy – she declared. Hector was in his element, despite the Seasoning being a good bit below what one hopes for in a Curry. The palate was being tested, the appetite sated, all was going well, then…
Around the halfway point I realised that the portion in front of me was even larger than I had at first estimated. This made yesterday’s portion at Sultans Restaurant look – small. The Naan had to go, a pity, I was thoroughly enjoying it. This meant Meat and Masala only. Hector had another problem.
Without the Bread mask, the Masala tasted – powdery. Can I add – powdery – to the accepted list of – tastes? Powdery is certainly not a – flavour – and what I was experiencing was certainly not a matter of – texture. The Masala tasted as though a Spice had been stirred in close to the point of serving but not properly cooked in. Had I sent the remnants back for a reboot this might have been overcome. I tried to identify the particular, offending Spice. It is frustrating when one knows, but cannot name it.
What had been a wonderful Curry ten minutes previously was no longer. I would leave more than I ever should, Marg took a further Soupçon, that was all.
So, what had happened here, was my observation accurate? In restaurants where the staff are more involved with the overall dining experience, one could comment, they might have an answer, possibly a solution. Khalid and Ali would have been on the case.
Impersonal Service
The young chaps do well, but it’s all robotic, a rush to get things done. Yes, the courtesy questions are asked, however, sincerity, or heaven forbid humour, appears to be thin on the ground. It is clear that International needs a recognised MC.
There was a flurry of excitement across the table when I asked for – The Bill. Chocolate, Marg had spotted Chocolate being presented in the wallet. Today is not a Tuesday, Marg knew both bits were coming her way.
The Bill
£19.40 Confirmation that I had asked for a Chilli & Coriander Naan (£2.95).
The Aftermath
Moments after I left International, a seed became unstuck, ah Cumin. That was it, either powdered Cumin, or a Garam Masala rich in Cumin is what had dominated the final mouthfuls.