Curry-Heute

Glasgow – DumPukht Lahori – Full Steam Ahead

Posted on December 13, 2021 by Hector

Having regularly promoted the wonder that is the Lamb Lahori Karahi served at DumPukht Lahori (39-41 Paisley Rd. West, Glasgow G51 1LG) throughout 2020, evidently, Hector was long overdue a return. The mid-afternoon closure has not fitted in with Hector’s usual dining patterns, however, letting a whole year pass without a visit to DumPukht, was not to be.

A Takeaway on Hogmanay was my final order of last year. The last sit-in Curry was October 7, two days before what was announced to be a – sixteen day Lockdown. Here we are in December 2021, who knows what restrictions are about to be declared in the next few days?

Saturday’s spurious – Desi Curry – in Dumbarton pushed Hector all the more towards a bona fide Karahi Gosht. With no hockey commitment this evening, Marg was happy to come out and eat mid-afternoon. Having not driven along Paisley Rd. West for some time, was DumPukht still open, and what chance a 15.00 Curry?

Half of the shutters were down, the door was locked. A note on the door was advertising for staff. There was a sign of life, the business maintains. As I returned to the car I heard my name being called. Aqeel, Mein Host, had just arrived to prepare for the now 16.00 opening. Waiting in the car, Marg spotted my about turn and so joined us.

We took our usual spot. Aqeel updated us on all things DumPukht. The breakfast to lunchtime opening has been dropped, Aqeel needs time with his family. Gone too is the – Tiffin Express – online ordering for Mainstream Curry. Aqeel told us that at times, he has been turning sit-in customers away, such is the demand for his – Desi Cuisine. His current plan is to expand the seating area, install another toilet, and effectively double the seating capacity all-round (sorry).

The new Menu was brought, prices have increased significantly since last year. Formerly they were too low, Curry-Heute had encouraged people to enjoy these prices whilst available. The Order was placed, a kilo of Lamb Lahori Karahi (£26.99) with a Roti (£1.20) for Marg and the – half Naan, half Roti – (£1.50) which has been enjoyed here previously.

I remain uncertain as to the correct name, however, it is close to the Bread which I enjoy in the Athens Curry Cafes. I showed a photo in order to secure the correct Bread.

The wait was considerable, Marg had her book. Chopping sounds came from the kitchen. Eventually a Salad and Raita (£2.00) was presented. At DumPukht one pays for everything. The Cumin in the Raita came across strongly, unlike the scenario in – Mainstream – venues, it was good to be able to pinpoint a particular Flavour/Ingredient.

At 16.00, Aqeel’s front of house colleague arrived, the food was presented soon after. It is approaching six months since Hector sat down to share a kilo, the hour’s wait today was not a problem.

Lamb Lahori Karahi

A sprinkling of Coriander sat amongst a mass of Ginger Strips and Green Chillies, that the latter were cut lengthways made them stand out even more. The photo may be misleading in terms of the amount of liquid. The Oil started to collect at one side of the karahi, the volume was appropriate, not excessive. As we made progress, so the Oil seemed to move away from the Meat and Masala. Sucky Bones stood out, as did a Lamb Chop which was definitely coming Hector’s way. The – Desi – nature of the Masala was apparent, a consistency that is not achieved by fully blended Masalas. Cooked Tomatoes, which had not totally decomposed, were a prominent feature of this Masala, Tomato-rich, a classic.

This had everything, the Steaming Hot Karahi would be decanted to hot plates.

For those who have been following the ongoing debate regarding the difference between Chapattis and Rotis, Marg’s Bread was definitely a Roti. Wholemeal, an air pocket, so partially risen. The Chapattis served in Bradford the week before last, do not have these properties.

Hector’s Bread was as requested. White Flour, again an air pocket and correspondingly risen, closer to Pitta, but well fired. Could this be the Roti equivalent of the White Naan which is also my preference? This style of Bread remains my preferred Bread accompaniment, lighter than a Naan, more girth than a Chapatti.

Last year, when this Karahi was the cheapest kilo in Glasgow, the Meat was Lamb plus stray attachments. Today, the quality of the Meat was in a different league, no cheap cuts here. Tasty and Tender, the anticipated Flavours from the Lamb emerged. Marg was already commenting on the Spice Level as is her wont. As is mine, I declared – we have Seasoning! Consider the hundreds of reviews in Curry-Heute where the Meat has been described as being a late addition, basically, a passenger, a parasite to the Masala. To get this much Flavour into the Lamb requires skill, patience. Beautiful. The Lamb Chop was an extra bonus.

Then there was the Masala itself. Scooped with the Bread, again full on Flavours. I have previously described the Karahi at DumPukht being closer to the Flavours of Manchester than those of Glasgow or Bradford. Manchester Curry tends to be Clove-rich, we found no Cloves here. What is Aqeel’s secret? Perhaps they were blended in?

The Meat, Masala and the Bread, outstanding, Aqeel was over twice to check on our progress. His colleague, keeping a watchful eye, offered more Bread. Our pleasure was conveyed throughout the twenty minutes or so it took us to destroy this kilo, we ate the lot. As usual, Marg’s bone count was appreciably below mine. She took the remnants of the Salad along with her Curry. Marg’s verdict:

A lovely fresh salad with a cumin raita, complemented the hot, spicy and tender lamb dish. My Roti allowed a hot and cold effect which enhanced the experience.

The karahi was wiped, the plates wiped also, only a tiny scrap of Bread was left over. Total enjoyment.

The Bill

£31.70 My Bread was charged as a Naan (£1.50).

The Aftermath

Aqeel made it clear he was keen to keep in touch. He has my number, I wonder what awaits?

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Dumbarton – Delhi Darbar – Desi Lamb, appraised

Posted on December 11, 2021 by Hector

Visits to Delhi Darbar (151 Glasgow Rd., Dumbarton G82 1RH) could be described as occasional. This is only the fifth post in the era of Curry-Heute and only the second sit-in Curry. Pakora, my usual purchase over the last three decades, is described in two posts only. There have been many pit-stops, usually on late night returns via Dumbarton from Helensburgh where incidentally, the new branch of KoolBa (Glasgow) has yet to open. It was on one such evening last month that I chatted with Mein Host at Delhi Darbar. Whilst my mountain of Pakora was being made ready, he wondered why he had so few customers on a Friday night. As Mr. Baig of The Village (Glasgow) has observed, people are not going out. With Omicron running wild, allegedly, who knows what restrictions will unfold in the coming days/weeks?

During my wait, I perused the Menu at Delhi Darbar, Desi Lamb (£9.00) stood out. I verified that it was only available without bones. Still, I mentioned to Marg that we must try it, one doesn’t know… When Alan got in touch to suggest a chaps’ night out, here was the opperchancity. It did take some persuading, Alan was no doubt hoping for a visit to one of Curry-Heute’s – Top Rated – in Glasgow. A booking was made for 20.15.

Arriving punctually, there were about a dozen diners, once we departed, that was probably it for the night. A Saturday night in December, this cannot be sustainable. Alan was convinced that the doorway has been moved at some point in the recent past. A well known a reliable Curry Blog can prove that if so, it has not been within the last ten years.

Starters – Rice, no Starters – Bread, is what was in Hector’s mind. Alan decided to try the Vegetable Pakora (£4.30). Having studied the menu on the train down to Dumbarton East, I resolved that if a Starter was happening tonight, it would be a Prawn Puri (£5.00). Hector ordering Prawns? Hector ordering a Prawn Puri? … unheard of in the history of this blog. Usually it’s Marg who is responsible for this appearing in Curry-Heute.

Both if us would have the Desi Lamb, Alan stuck to his usual Chapatti (£1.30) and Hector a Mushroom Rice (£3.00). Being a Saturday night, some fizzy apple juice with a moderate alcohol content was required. £3.00 a pint seemed reasonable, when one of us ordered a second, the brand improved.

Complimentary Poppadoms, Spiced Onions and a Dip were presented. Alan wondered why the Poppadoms with Cumin Seeds which are prevalent across the European mainland rarely appear in the UK. Once again Hector found himself having a Poppadom, with minimal food afore, surely this would not erode the appetite?

The Starters arrived, what had we done?

Vegetable Pakora

If there’s a larger portion of Pakora served anywhere on this planet, then Hector has not been told. I counted at least a dozen pieces of Pakora,

Possibly pushing twenty – was Alan’s count.

The remaining Red Dip was called into action. We discussed if these had come from the great Cumbernauld Pakora Factory or were made on the premises. Alan found them to be smaller than the norm with a correspondingly higher ratio of batter to filling. This he did not like, – a bit stodgy – was his final observation before the white flag was raised. Seven pieces were left, one is lucky to get that many in a portion in the majority of restaurants. The abundance of raw onion puzzled.

Prawn Puri

I don’t understand the use of Red Food Dye, but that is always how this creation is presented. The Puri itself was substantial, deep-fried bread, wonderful. (I have threaten to serve Marg a deep-fried Calzone.) It was impossible to count the number of Prawns, I suspect it matched the number of pieces of Pakora.

Sweetness is the enemy, fortunately, the Red Masala did not upset the Hector palate. More Seasoning would have enhanced the experience. Whatever the workings of the brain which had led me to order this, there were no regrets at the time of eating. This was a pleasant change from the norm. A share of one Prawn Puri could have been equally satisfying.

Mein Host cleared the debris, and lit the candles for the Mains’ stands.

Your Pakora is legendary – I assured him.

Thanks – was the somewhat curt reply.

Had he remembered me from a couple of weeks back? Maybe it had been a long day.

I asked for a break, ten minutes was agreed. Indeed, Mein Host approached us once again to check we were ready. Hot plates, whose pattern reminded Alan of the early days of the Akash (Helensburgh), were brought. We miss the Akash.

The Chapatti, obviously a traditional Chapatti, was a decent size, but Alan said it could have been warmer. The Mushroom Rice came last, the container deceived, there was enough here for two. With Mushrooms and Peas mixed through the Spiced Rice, superficially, this was what the Hector seeks. Alas, the Flavours from the Spice were not powerful enough, more Seasoning would have helped.

The Mushrooms were wet, shiny, which always plants the seed of – tinned? – from which the mind rarely recovers. In terms of a Vegetable Rice, Yadgar (Glasgow) this was not.

Desi Lamb

Here is the opperchancity for Chef to show his might. Curry with a genuine taste of home, that’s why Hector was here and why Alan was willing to partake. What did we get?

Firstly, the quantity of Masala was such that this was definitely – Curry. I counted ten as I decanted the Meat, mostly large pieces, so as one must accept at Delhi Darbar, the portions are far from skimpy.

Chewy – was the first realisation on both sides of the table. I watched Alan try to half a piece of Lamb with his fork, a struggle. Only one of my ten pieces would be described as – Tender-soft. The menu states – meat marinated in a special sauce. In terms of the Lamb adding Flavour, there was little to no evidence of this. A big hitting Masala could have saved the day.

The blended Masala had a decent viscosity, this Curry was far from being – Soup. The Spice Level was – moderate – at best. Alan remarked that we hadn’t been consulted over this. I pointed out that the use of the term – Desi – across the land is associated with a higher level of Spice. The lack of Flavour in the Rice was sadly matched by that of the Masala. Alan considered this to have the taste of Curry from decades gone by, I found more than hint of what I have described oft as – The Clydebank Curry Taste. With no Whole Spices, who knows what was, and was not, in the Masala? This Curry definitely needed more … we know what’s coming next!

Seasoning it’s all about – Seasoning! There was a salt cellar on the table, Alan, who is permitted to use such devices, attempted to rescue his Curry, none came out. Who adds Salt to their dinner? His verdict:

It wasn’t red – as is his memory of Curry served at Delhi Darbar – it’s Curry, Jim, but… not seasoned or hot enough, as was the Chapatti. Had worse.

Having eaten the Meat, I knew I had to abandon the Rice. The Puri was now not the wisest of decisions. Had I eaten more, a reenactment of Mr. Creosote may have been forthcoming. The Rice and surplus Masala would go back to Clydebank.

This Curry could have been so much better. Desi? I have to ask, in what way was this a – Desi Curry? There was nothing – wrong – with this Curry. In terms of Mainstream Curry Restaurants, maybe one should not get one’s hopes up. This is what you get. Whole Spices would have added a greater depth of Flavour, as would Lamb on-the-bone, and of course – more Seasoning. Alan is also a great advocate of adding a Boiled Egg to his Curry. If I/we want all this, then we go elsewhere, which normally we do.

The Bill

£39.30 For once the food cost more than the drinks – who said that?

The Aftermath

Mein Host offered us Baileys, graciously declined. I assured him that if my wife had been here, she would have accepted. As our conversation developed he remembered me – two Pakora. I shall most certainly be back for more Pakora.

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Glasgow – The Village “Curry House” – Kofta Anda Palak Day

Posted on December 8, 2021 by Hector

Whatever triggers Hector’s occasional desire for Saag/Palak is unknown. Last Friday’s Meat Balls Spinach at Karachi Restaurant (Bradford) did not hit the spot, like an unscratched itch, the hankering remained. The inclusion of – Egg – in the Lamb Biryani at Sheesh Mahal (Bradford) perhaps proved that sometimes, one Egg is not – un oeuf. Wednesday may be Kofta Anda day at Sheerin Palace, however, every day is Kofta day at The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA). Today, Hector was determined to have Kofta with Egg and Spinach!

Crossing the Squiggly Bridge at 15.00, it was apparent that the majority of the fencing around the new Barclay’s complex had gone. The soon to be campus looks nearly open for business. Few people could be seen in the offices, Wee Nippy has instructed people to work from home again.

So much for the promised thousands Hector predicts will soon discover the wonderful Curry available in Tradeston.

Mr Baig was leaving as I took my seat. There was time to tell him of my visit to the Curry Capital and that I was amused to find Taj, Mein Host at Sheesh Mahal (Bradford), out of retirement.

Poppadoms were once again declined, the Order was taken Kofta (£9.95) with Egg and Spinach. There is an extra £1.00 charge for Kofta Anda and Kofta Palak. Who has ever ordered Kofta Anda Palak? A Naan (£2.50) would accompany.

The waitress asked for my Spice requirements.

Above medium – was answered with – Desi medium.

Marg announced this morning that although she didn’t wish to dine, she would interrupt her activities this afternoon and become my personal Paparazzo. This also left Hector as the only diner at The Village this Wednesday afternoon. Two Chefs took a break, and sat at the far end of the huge premises. I wonder what they had?

Kofta Anda Palak

A Boiled Egg (whole) and four, not particularly large, Meatballs sat in the abundant Masala. Masala, this was a Herb-rich Mash. If this didn’t sate Hector’s Spinach craving, what would? The Coriander topping would add even more Herb Flavour, sliced Green Chillies also sat menacingly there too.

The Naan was served folded. The Bread had been scored to create quarters, but not all the way through, so technically, this Naan was whole. Round-ish, with some burnt bits, it did not look like a traditional Tandoori Naan. The edges were suitably thick, the centre, not so. I would manage three-quarters. A decent Naan, but still not the big Teardrop, Thick Naan with loads of blisters I seek.

The Masala Mash was suitably Spiced, the Chillies took this to an even higher level. Testing. The Seasoning was there and, as a direct consequence, the full Flavours of the Spinach came across. This is what I was hoping for.

The Kofta proved to be substantial, they too had their own Spice. With Kofta, Naan and the Masala Mash being taken simultaneously, a perfect combination, synergy.

Around the three-quarters mark, I thought it time to break up the Egg. This added a further dimension to what was already an impressive meal. Maybe a Hard Boiled Egg should feature more often in Curry?

The Bread had to be abandoned, else defeat would have been the outcome. The final stretch then became easier, and even more enjoyable. Spinach and Egg, the ultimate accompaniment for Meatballs?

The Bill

£13.45 There was only a single £1.00 supplement.

The Aftermath

The manager (Omar?) asked how many stars I would give my visit. That’s not how Curry-Heute operates. Praise when it’s due, punches not withheld. Today, Hector had been well looked after and served a Curry combination never experienced before.

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Bradford – The Kashmir Restaurant – A Big, Fishy Wow!

Posted on December 4, 2021 by Hector

A perfect day in Bradford has to begin with a visit to The Kashmir Restaurant (27 Morley St, Bradford BD7 1AG England). Hector was testing his limits, the third Curry in some twenty two hours, Marg would spectate.

The two less familiar waiters greeted as we entered at 13.30. There was no sign of my favourite waiter who appears on my Kashmir dedicated page.

A Salad, with Raita plonked on top, was brought instantly. The Poppadoms which followed were declined. After last night’s feeding frenzy at Sheesh Mahal, this would have been too much. The Order was given Fish Karahi (£8.50) with Chapattis. Marg jumped in with a Mango Lassi (£2.25).

Behind me sat a pukka couple with no control of their weans. Hopscotch on the tiles, young Sebastian, is not the acceptable level of behaviour in a restaurant. He was told, the parental command was ignored, and younger Michael copied everything Sebastian did. I hope we didn’t spoil the enjoyment of their meal. So it goes.

Fish Karahi

Nobody in Glasgow will serve me this. Flaked Fish, though some pieces were unusually large today, in an Oily, Tomato-rich Masala. Rest assured, the Oil was in no way excessive. No Oil no Seasoning, no Curry!

Three inclusive Chapattis accompanied. Who can eat three Chapattis?

There was immediate gratification, a big – Fishy Wow! This was an outrageously good Curry, the Spice and Seasoning were spot on. As has become my standard practice when having the Fish Karahi at Kashmir, I added the Onions from the Salad. This provided a crunch, a diversity of texture. The Pieces of Tomato and the Herbs mixed through the Masala added further pleasure. This was as good a Fish Curry as one can find in the UK.

With two Chapattis devoured, I found myself needing half of the the third. Where was this appetite coming from? This Fish Karahi was going down far too easily given that which had been consumed in the previous hours. Yesterday’s disappointment at Karachi was put behind me. Last night’s stunning Lamb on-the-bone at Sheesh Mahal, now this, it was good to be back in Bradford.

The Bill

£10.75 Cash only today the machine was down.

The Aftermath

All the staff bade farewell, including a beaming smile from Chef who was at the counter. Hector is recognised here, but names are never exchanged. Some day.

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Bradford – Sheesh Mahal – Something Different

Posted on December 4, 2021 by Hector

Our – perfect day – had to conclude with a return to Sheesh Mahal (6 St. Thomas’ Rd, Bradford, BD1 2RW). Omar said last night that he had planned – something different – for us to try. Once again, it was approaching midnight when we arrived at the top end of the town centre. There was no Omar, however, Taj, the not-so retired, was still there and he introduced us to the lady members of his family.

They were departing, why was Taj still here if he is doing – lunchtimes? One suspects he has missed the buzz.

Something Different

The first thing I did was to tell the waiter not to bring the vast array of Poppadoms and Dips we were treated to last night. In the end we did accept the Raita and a Sauce made from blended Green Peppers, the Recipe for which has been well known to Hector for decades and has been posted – here – since the dawn of Curry-Heute. These would be a suitable accompaniment for our Starter. Yes, Starter, singular. Having taken control of our own fate, it was decided to repeat the successful model of last night, one Starter, one Curry, to share. Sharing, again?

For a change, we studied the Menu. This was well thumbed, no price increases since 2018? Last night’s wonderful Hector-Omar creation featuring – Lamb on-the-bone – could well have been reproduced, however, one might get the theme by now, we were in the mood for – something different.

Lamb Chops (£5.50)! OK, nothing new there. Mutton Biryani (£8.45)? The last time Marg ordered a Biryani as a Main Course was in Tunis. That night, no accompanying Masala was presented, resulting in a less than satisfactory outcome. The Menu at Sheesh Mahal states that a – Curry Sauce – would be served.

I asked the waiter for Lamb Biryani without Peppers. Capsicum does keep on appearing at Sheesh Mahal, one has to be careful. I was offered Lamb on-the-bone. That was unexpected.

Lamb Chops

Five decent sized Lamb Chops sat on the sizzling platter. The Garnish was Raw Onion, Coriander and – Capsicum! I should declare an allergy, that might make kitchens take note. Marg helped herself to the two most cremated Chops leaving me with the lightly fired ones.

My Chops were decidedly juicy, with a good level of Spice. The extra Flavour achieved by near cremation was therefore missing. That so many Onions were raw was a distinct negative.

I enjoyed the burnt taste – said Marg, who had the better Chops – succulent meat although it had a wee kick. Not enough cooked onions.

Enjoyable therefore, but not up to The Downsman (Crawley) standards.

There was an appropriate interlude.

Lamb Biryani on-the-bone

This Rice Dish was definitely moist, for a moment we were left to wonder if the – Curry Sauce – had already been added. When a plate of orange Shorva was presented all was clear, or so I thought.

Daal? – I asked.

No, sauce!

That was me told.

A quick sample revealed that this was certainly not a Lentil Soup, it did have a modest kick.

We had a plate of already moist Rice to which we would add more liquid. I made a small puddle of Curry Sauce beside the Rice, I could mix this through as and and when. Being far from an expert on Biryani, I had to assume that this was the correct procedure. This was the antithesis of the usual Curry-Heute experience, something different.

Peas, Potato and Egg were mixed through the Rice. Egg, a much underused ingredient in a Curry, if indeed a Biryani comes under that label. I feel another Kofta Anda must be overdue.

The Sucky Bone had to be celebrated, as seen in the photo, there was no Bread to hold this evening. When I visit Sheerin Palace (Glasgow), a favourite source of Kofta Anda, a simple Chicken Biryani sometimes accompanies. Chicken Bones I have therefore become used to, to have Lamb on-the-bone was definitely a treat.

Marg: – an interesting meal with rice, peas, potato and a boiled egg with chunks of lamb. I didn’t require the extra sauce as the dish was fairly moist. My last encounter had been a very dry dish.

The back of my throat was being attacked by Spice. I concluded that this had to be from the Biryani proper. Whilst there was Spice and Seasoning, the Flavours were markedly different from my usual Methi infused creations. A pleasant change, and something to consider again when a Curry overdose is imminent. This was my fourth visit to a Bradford Curry House in thirty two hours. Time to take a step back.

The Bill

£15.40 Bradford prices.

The Aftermath

Mein Host was still on the premises, his twelve hour plus shift, continuing. What I have learned over the past two nights, Taj likes to see photos of himself.

There is a plan to be back in Bradford in a month, else two.

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Bradford – Karachi Restaurant – Some you win…

Posted on December 3, 2021 by Hector

Curry-Heute was due to report from Köln. Instead, Hector and Marg are in the Curry Capital for two nights. Just how much Curry can Hector manage? Gone are the days of three visits to the same restaurant in one day. And with a greater knowledge of the venues, the number of favoured haunts to be visited has increased.

Having checked in t’Travelodge at 15.00 we made our way across the square to Karachi Restaurant (15 Neal St., Bradford BD5 0BX). It was dusk as we approached Karachi, the third day of winter, maximum darkness looms.

Hector was back for the Meat Ball Spinach (£8.50) with three inclusive Chapattis. Today I decided to up it to – Madras – for an extra 50p. Marg decided it was too early for dinner, why did she think we would be eating again later? Samosa (£1.00) evolved into Mix Starter (£5.00). Having shown her a photo on a well known and reliable Curry Blog, Marg knew what to expect.

The waiter presented two Modest Salads before returning to take the Order. I should have asked what Yoghurt they used for the Raita, this was the Creamiest Raita, ever. Marg would retain hers as accompaniment for her plateful of variety.

Whilst we waited, a mature chap entered, not one of what would be twelve fellow diners. As he approached the kitchen he acknowledged us. Later, I spotted his photo on the wall in the company of Rick Stein, that was a while back.

Mix Starter

Marg was taken aback by the sheer quantity of food on her plate. The largest Samosa ever seen contained Meat, when this Dish was last seen, it was a Vegetable Samosa which came. The Samosa disappeared in a flash. Assistance was required, Hector was on board, Vegetable Pakora, suitably Spiced, not bad at all. Beneath the mass of Pakora lay a Shamee Kebab, most of this was crossing the table. The Shamee was well fired, moist, with finely chopped Onion in there too, Umami! Excellent. This was markedly different from the Shami Kebabs served in Glasgow where they are decidedly – mushy. I could have eaten a few of these.

Marg took care of the Chicken Pakora, but left one Mushroom. Fish apart, I’m not a huge fan of so-called Pakora where one item is deep fried in batter. The big Mushroom was moist, unnaturally so, not the best way to serve this delicate Vegetable.

Too much – was Marg’s first comment – I enjoyed the Chicken Pakora and the large meat-filled Samosa. I’m not used to Mushroom Pakora, it was different. They were hot and filling.

Meat Ball Spinach – Madras

Four large Kofta sat in a Dark, Thick Masala. No Coriander garnish today. After the abundance of – foliage – at Kabana (Manchester) yesterday, this was Naked Curry.

The three Chapattis were classic examples of the genre. I would manage two, which was quite an achievement given the supplementary nibbles from across the table.

Big disappointment!

There was way less Spice than the standard version enjoyed previously. I had presumed Chef would have upped the Spice in the Masala, not the case. The Kofta was the only source of anything resembling a – kick. I reported back in June that the Seasoning in this Curry could be more, today’s was even less. As a consequence, the big – Palak hit – was not forthcoming. Good as the Kofta were, the Shamee Kebab had a much more intense Flavour.

This creates a dilemma. When next I return to Karachi, what do I have? Perhaps it’s time to try Kofta Palak elsewhere?

The Bill

£14.00 Cash only.

The Aftermath

I phoned the relocated Sultan premises in Frizinghall which now appears on Google maps. There was an answer – open tomorrow from 14.00 until 20.30. Sadly, this does not fit in with our plans. I’ll try again next month hopefully.

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Bradford – Sheesh Mahal – All Boxes Ticked

Posted on December 3, 2021 by Hector

Reports have reached Curry-Heute that something was afoot at Sheesh Mahal (6 St. Thomas’ Rd, Bradford, BD1 2RW): no recognisable staff, shorter hours, less than excellent Curry. My recent attempts at contacting Omar have proved futile, a change of number? Six months ago, all was well, Hector Holmes was on the case.

Seven hours after my Meat Balls Spinach at Karachi, the appetite was such that the thought of – The Full Bhuna – at Sheesh Mahal was overwhelming and could lead to a waste of food. I put it to Marg that we – share – a Starter and one Main Course. Accepted. Hector the sharer?

Hector wasn’t quite last out of the Record Cafe this evening. We entered Sheesh Mahal well before midnight. New opening times were posted, essentially noon until late. So lunchtimes are back, one box ticked.

A young waiter recognised me, he showed us to a table away from the throng. The taking of our seats was dramatically postponed, a familiar face approached, however, the appearance was different. The beard, the grooming, svelte, it was Taj, Mein Host, who retired back in 2017. So no change in ownership then, tick another box. Taj had not seen Marg for some time. He recalled the day we were there when they had been broken into. I asked after Omar, – behind you. Omar hobbled across the room, a football injury, he has no luck.

Down to business, I asked if the – Fish – that he served Steve and I back in June was available.

As soon as you walked in, it was arranged. Your Fish is being cooked.

By the time we took our seats, the table was heaving with Salads and Dips, Poppadoms too. Tonight, Hector would gorge on Poppadoms. With so much to get through, it was a matter of politeness. I was already posting photos – look how much food we have, and we haven’t ordered anything yet.

I informed Omar that our plan was to share a Starter and a Main Course. The Starter was sorted, it would be Complimentary. Omar recited my Curry requirements to the bemused waiter standing beside him: Lamb, on-the-bone, Dry, Spicy, and no Peppers!

I added a Naan, when Omar serves me, it is inclusive.

We were well through the Salad and Dips when the Fish arrived I still don’t have a name for it.

Omar’s Fish

A length of Fish, it was Cod last time, matched the size of the platter. Smothered in sizzling Onions, which drew Marg’s attention, there was also some of the offending Green Vegetable. Not a problem, this was easily set aside. I took about half, Marg around half of the remainder. Marg assured me this would suffice, even before tasting, I predicted she would be back for more.

The Spice was delightful, the distinctive Flavour of a Barbecue came across powerfully. Incredibly light, this Fish was everything I remembered from June. Stunning!

Marg skewered then devoured – I’m having a bit more Fish – she declared.

I enjoyed the moment – QED.

To not have this Fish Starter would be an oversight. I seem to recall going to the Sheesh Mahal and being told by unknown staff that the Fish was not possible, yet I had this on my last visit. It must have been a dream, or perhaps a nightmare.

There was a suitable gap between Starters and Main, there was still a lot of food on the table.

The Hector-Omar Bradford Curry

Topped with Ginger Strips and Coriander and a sliver of guess what, this was the classic Bradford Curry. The Masala was Thick and Minimal, exactly what was ordered. Sucky Bones stood out.

The Naan was an oval, different. Burnt blisters in the middle where it was appreciably thinner made it look the part. The thicker edges suited Hector, the middle, Marg. I still have to find the thick Naan which my mind has become preoccupied with. With a glistening sheen, this Naan was definitely fit for purpose.

The first dip of Naan in the Masala was another moment of – expletive deleted. The herby – Bradford Taste – was there, not every Bradford Curry registers on the palate so quickly. Crucially, the Seasoning explained all. The Spice Level was moderate which suited Marg. A Curry for sharing, what an alien concept.

The Lamb was soft, Tender, and gave off so much Flavour, again, something one cannot take for granted. This was Bradford Curry at its best.

Hector, tick another box. Time for Marg’s summary:

The Fish arrived sizzling with onions and peppers. I enjoyed the texture of the Fish which was full of flavour and went back for more. The burnt onions added to the Dish, my favourite. The Lamb had a wonderful earthy taste: very tender, very rich in flavour, very enjoyable.

I was intrigued by the photos at the end. Marg had significantly fewer bones – cherry picking – the Meat!

The Bill

£9.90 Athena prices.

The Aftermath

Omar was insistent that we return tomorrow night, he has more things for us to try. Before Taj departed, he told us that he does lunchtimes. What has happened to Sadaqat?

All boxes ticked, alles ist in ordnung at Sheesh Mahal.

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Manchester – Kabana – Just in Time

Posted on December 2, 2021 by Hector

The plan for December 2021 was to make up for the disappointment of 2020. After consultation, The Company decided that the – Weinachtsmarkt – of both Köln and Berlin should be experienced. But, how to get there given the few flights available from Scotland, and not helped by easyJet cancelling nearly every European flight from Edinburgh in the last month. Manchester-Köln with Ryanair was the optimum solution. Alas, the best made plans of man hit the skids, firstly, thanks to Omicron, then Wee Nippy’s continuing determination to put the kibosh on foreign travel, double PCR testing and eight days of self-isolation my arse.

The train to Manchester and a night’s accommodation were prepaid, it had to be. Hector and Marg arrived at Kabana just after 15.30, Rizwan’s assistant beamed as we entered before the man himself clocked our arrival.
What are you doing here? – was the strangest of greetings from Mein Host.

The answer was simple, Karahi Lamb on-the-bone (£5.30) with Rice (£1.50) for Hector, Keema Peas (£5.30) and a Chapatti (£0.80) for Marg.

Whilst Hector placed the Order, Marg selected our table in the near empty Curry Cafe. More would arrive for the final hour of service.

Rizwan said he would bring the food to the table, he did so, the Karahi came first (the Chapatti taking longer), the important three pots of – foliage – were brought also, indulgence.

Karahi Lamb

Hector’s juices were already flowing. Somehow, as I turned from Oldham St. on to Hilton St., the memory of the taste of Kabana Curry was to the fore.

Wow! Wonderful! – was my ecstatic reaction to the first mouthful, Kabana, I’m back.

Hector does not count the pieces of Meat when Rizwan serves, it’s more a matter of – will I manage all on my plate?

Cloves! – the next remark, that which makes Manchester Curry stand apart from Glasgow/Bradford Curry. The Spice Level was enhanced by the extra Chillies, the Seasoning was there. I read an online article a couple of days ago – The biggest mistakes people make when cooking Curry – not adding sufficient Salt was mentioned – twice.

The quality of the Lamb always impresses, beyond Tender, full of Flavour. The bones were stripped and set aside, a Sucky Bone was there. The blended Masala was sufficient for the quantity of Rice. The occasional Black Peppercorn was encountered, crunch. Crunch, also from the diced Ginger. Fresh Coriander, the Chillies, the Masala, the Meat, so much going on simultaneously. Amazing Curry.

Karahi Lamb at Kabana, one of life’s greatest pleasures.

Keema Peas

This too arrived – naked. Rizwan waited to see if Marg would also cover her Curry with foliage. Coriander sufficed.

This Keema Mutter was suitably – Dry – one suspects the quantity in the bowl was deceptive. The Chapatti was large, thick-ish, and of the Wholemeal variety. Curryspondent Archie has instigated a debate over the difference between a Chapatti and a Roti. Bradford Chapattis are the classic, super-thin, non-Wholemeal. If it doesn’t go – crispy – it’s a Chapatti, else it’s a Roti. Have I just opened a can of worms?

A good kick with peppercorns to add more flavour – said Marg – a full dish of Keema Mutter at its best.

Keema Peas at Kabana, one of life’s greatest pleasures?

The Bill

£13.60 Are you paying for both? – asked Rizwan. Another strange question.

The Aftermath

Fond farewells, and the promise to return soonest. Indeed, more trips to Manchester are planned in the coming months.

And so to the Manchester equivalent of a Weinachtsmarkt, more Cloves, more Cinnamon, and the opperchancity for Marg to wear her Berlin Weinachtsmarkt cosy hat.

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Glasgow – The Village “Curry House” – Turning Back Time

Posted on November 27, 2021 by Hector

The Flavours from last Saturday’s Shadi Wala at Annaya’s Indian (Helensburgh) took me back to the days before Curry-Heute (B.C.H.) when there was almost a residency at The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA). Who goes to the same Curry House and orders the same Curry every week? In the early years of this millennium, Hector was at The Village sometimes three times a week having Lamb Desi Kourma. Today marks the 80^th visit in Curry-Heute, there have been many more.

Despite being more – Soupy – than the Karahi that is the favoured Curry in this era, The Village – Lamb Desi Kourma (£11.50) still has its place in Hector’s heart. This wonderful Curry has not been enjoyed here by Hector in years, having become available only in Chicken (£9.95) on the House Menu, but strangely still available online as a Takeaway. Somehow, back in May, Dr. Stan managed to order Lamb Desi Kourma, today, Hector was determined to have it too.

Arriving just before 15.00, the ritual check-in was completed, the only Scottish venue I’ve been asked to do this, in ages. I was offered a choice of a window table or a bench table on the opposite side. Why sit with les autres when unnecessary?

The Menu does not appear to have changed, almost every other Curry House I have visited this year has increased their prices. The waiter, suitably masked, was not phased by my ordering Lamb Desi Kourma – on-the-bone.

Desi style? – he confirmed. That was an interesting statement, either a tautology, or something different was coming. Mushroom Rice (£3.50) would accompany along with a 330ml bottle of Sparkling Water (£1.90).

The Manager arrived, he greeted me with a long time no see. Yes, it has been two months, and this was only my third visit in 2021. Mr Baig, Mein Host, passed by, he too greeted. The chap, a Chef, who has to be the eldest son, also nodded in passing. Quite a welcome. A waitress brought complimentary Spiced Onions and a pair of Poppadoms. These were graciously declined. I have gone off Poppadoms.

A hot plate preceded the arrival of the food. I liked what I saw.

I have been critical of the price of Rice, and the portion size, at The Village for some time. Today, the Mushroom Rice was piled much higher than the bowl. On decanting, there was visibly a good portion, the Mushrooms were plentiful, and most importantly – fresh.

Lamb Desi Kourma – Desi-style

This was markedly different from any interpretation of this Curry seen before at The Village. The Masala was both relatively Minimal and Thicker than that served previously. Having decanted the Meat, whose count reached twelve, there was not much Masala left in the karahi. Back in the days of the – Soupy Kourma – Rice was absolutely necessary, today, Bread might have been the better option. The irony was not lost, Hector loves his Dry Curry, here it was.

The Ginger Strips and Coriander were a welcome sight. The foliage was complemented by a whole Red Chilli which I set aside. Hector wimps out?

The much anticipated Desi Kourma Flavours hit the palate, the Citrus to the fore. Midweek, as much as I enjoyed the Citrus in the Shatkora Lamb at Bo’ness Spice (Bo’ness), this had even more. There was Spice at a decent level, the Seasoning was there. Biting into a Peppercorn released a further burst of Flavour, then I encountered the first of a brace of Cloves. Whole Spices always set a Curry apart from the Mainstream.

The Meat was a mixture of on-the-bone and boneless. Five bones in all, plenty of Lamb. Who knows how long the Lamb had been in contact with this Masala? There was still a sense of belonging.

With the karahi scraped clean, it was necessary to eat some naked Rice. Fortunately the quality of this made the task less than onerous. The final mouthfuls, Rice with Masala, Lamb on-the-bone, were a delight. My pleasure was witnessed by none other than Mr. Baig himself, who joined me for the end of my meal, and then stayed for a lengthy chat. I’ll get the formalities done first.

The Bill

£16.95 I took the opperchancity to show the manager the Scottish Vaccination App which he was not aware of.

The Aftermath

… and the conversation continued.

Mr. Baig was aware that he hadn’t seen me for some time. That I have been abroad was relayed, hence the discussion about vaccinations etc. That people are still not coming out in numbers to dine is a major cause for concern. The Village premises are huge, staff have to be paid, wages have increased because it so difficult to get staff. When will this end? – was an oft repeated phrase.

Mr. Baig suggested I should go to Pakistan, with him even, he has a house. He showed me videos of the chaps who do food blogging. I assured him that if I ever went to Pakistan I would have to eat – everything. I brought up my appreciation of Afghan Cuisine also, mentioning – Namkeen. Mr. Baig marvelled that in Afghanistan they are able to cook without oil. The fat in their Meat is sufficient, apparently UK Meat does not behave in the same manner. On his mentioning the cost of Street-food, here was my opperchancity to bring up the Curry Cafes of Athena (Greece). €4.00 for a large Karahi Gosht, admittedly not the best of Meat, i.e. Mutton and bits. He stated that he could never serve Mutton, his customers would quickly realise the difference.

Big outlays, reduced income, it’s not sustainable.

When will – this – all end? And tonight Boris brings back PCR tests for travellers and also states that anyone coming into contact with someone who has the new variant has to self-isolate, regardless of vaccination status. Having been slow to react a year ago, surely this is overreaction?

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Bo’ness – Bo’ness Spice – By Invitation

Posted on November 24, 2021 by Hector

Bo’ness, or Borrowstounness, to give its Sunday name, this was a first visit to this town on the Forth Estuary. At The Radhuni (Loanhead) 10^th Anniversary Celebrations back in September, Scott and Julia Thornton of – Hotel PR – suggested that Hector and Marg could visit Bo’ness Spice (61-63 South St, Bo’ness EH51 9HA) to appraise their fayre. Curry-Heute is always open to such invitations. It was arranged with Mohammed, the proprietor, that we should arrive this evening at 17.00.

We set off from the West on this late autumn afternoon in time to see some of the sights of Bo’ness. There was certainly enough to justify a return on a summer’s day when, hopefully, everything will be back in full swing. Trains and Ice Cream were two established attractions before we entered Bo’ness Spice.

Mohammed was otherwise distracted this evening, awaiting the imminent arrival of a new addition to his family. Mein Host this evening was a more than capable, and charming stand-in. Hereafter, I shall refer to him as – Mein Host. (It’s complicated.) We were shown to one of two tables for two. Seating fourteen at four tables, Bo’ness Spice is most certainly a bijou restaurant. A table for six would be occupied soon after our arrival, more chaps arrived later; meanwhile on-line orders, phone orders, takeaways and deliveries were underway.

Mein Host, already clued in as to why we were here, invited us to choose anything from the Menu. I relayed our usual system, we have done this a few times, foregoing Starters but ordering a third Curry, a Vegetable Curry. It was therefore the end of the Menu which I studied first.

Sabzi Rogon Josh (£8.95) was looking good until until Marg declared her Main – Rogon Fish (£10.95).

And so it was back to the old faithful – Aloo Gobi Massalam (£5.95) – from the Side Dishes section.

I described my Curry preferences, Karai Gosht (£9.95) was offered with the Capsicum withheld. Mein Host and I hit upon Shatkora Lamb (£10.95) almost simultaneously. Hector always enjoys a blast of Citrus.

To accompany, Marg and I had previously agreed to test the Naan and order a Rice with Vegetables. A Nan (£3.75) would be accompanied by Ghee Batt (£4.50), the latter being Basmati fried in Ghee with Onions.

Only Soft Drinks are on offer at Bo’ness Spice, though I did overhear BYOB being mentioned. This of course suited us, though only small bottles of Sparkling Water (£2.95) were available.

The conversation with Mein Host continued until the arrival of the birthday party of six. I was surprised to hear that they make their – gravy – freshly every day. I have always assumed that to maintain the particular – house-taste, The Big Pot would simply be topped up. He also told us that it is Mohammed’s wife who grinds the Spices to create the Garam Masala for the restaurant.

Hot plates preceded the arrival of the food, much appreciated, it was rapidly becoming a cold night in Bo’ness. The table for two had limited space. Mein Host solved the puzzle of arranging all – I have done this before – he assured us.

The Ghee Batt was just enough to share given that we also had Bread. We were subsequently offered more Rice, there was no need. The Onions were subtle, I had feared that Marg had presented the opperchancity for us to receive the dreaded – Big Onion Blobs, not tonight. The Nan was presented in quarters, Hector always prefers his Bread to be served whole, there simply wasn’t the space. Thin with blisters, and – cooked in a clay oven, says the Menu; this was not the Tandoori Teardrop Naan which Hector has been dreaming about in recent posts. Mein Host told us that they keep their Naans simple and deliberately do not go for doughy. I had to admit that theirs is exactly how Marg likes her Naan.

Perhaps you should write the review – he said to Marg.

Charm and humour, we were being well looked after.

Rogon Fish

Salmon, I did ask, sat in a blended Masala, topped with a sprinkling of Coriander. It was Marg who spotted the strips of Tomato mixed in. A Soupçon of the Masala crossed the table, there was Seasoning and a definite – Fish Flavour – enough to make me wonder how Marg had got to this Curry first. Unexpectedly, Marg came out with the quote of the evening:

I could eat this every day.

Has the Lady who tends towards Butter Chicken and Keema finally got the hang of Fish Curry? What had I missed? Marg’s summary:

An abundance of fish, a thick Masala, full of flavour, with strips of tomato adding to the overall flavour. I thoroughly enjoyed the dish, I liked the Naan.

Shatkora Lamb

Again, Coriander topped a possibly even thicker Masala than that across the table. It was a relief to see such viscous Masalas after the – Soup – served at Annaya’s Indian (Helensburgh) at the weekend. A wedge of half-cooked Tomato added colour and also meant the Curry was not simply Meat and Masala. As I decanted the Meat to the plate, so I counted into double figures, a decent portion.

Aloo Gobi Massallam

With further Coriander Garnish and another wedge of Tomato, I was again happy to see the Masala was both Minimal and suitably Thick. Marg possibly took only about a third of this Side, leaving the remainder for yours truly.

The first dip of the Naan was into the Shatkora Masala. Surprisingly, a slight Sweetness was revealed with Medium Spice. The Spice Level did not grow, if I had this again I would ask for a bit more. Crucially the Seasoning was there, for Hector, the fundamental parameter which defines a Curry of interest.

The Lamb oozed of – lambiness. Tender does not begin to describe it, this was quality Meat. The Flavours from the blended Masala built steadily. In time I spotted a finely chopped Vegetable, or in this case, Shatkora Fruit. This was the source of the Citrus and a – slight bitterness. This was much more forgiving than adding Karela, Hector has found a new ingredient for his Home-cooked Curry.

In terms of pleasure, this was already a worthy experience, but there was the other side of the plate to consider.

Clove – is what hit the palate when I started the Aloo Gobi. As there were no Whole Spices added after blending in any Curry this evening, we were on a blind tasting. With the Citrus/Bitterness from the Shatkora now embedded on the palate, it was inevitable that the Masala with the Aloo Gobi tasted – Sweeter, but not excessively so. The Curry on the left side of the plate would temper this anyway. The Cauliflower retained some firmness, perfectly cooked. The Potato looked as though it was already absorbing Flavours from the Masala. Suitably Soft, excellent. This was the ideal accompaniment.

Mein Host checked on our progress. I asked Marg to repeat the above quote. All was well. At the end, I pointed to the plates and serving dishes, all wiped clean.

I think this says it all.

Mein Host cleared the table and said – Chef will be waiting to see the plates.

Dessert was declined, though two white coffees – as hot as you can make them – were ordered. There is no – fancy – coffee machine at Bo’ness Spice. The two Hot Coffees were appreciated.

We were able to chat further with Mein Host in the doorway on our departure. There will be a return to Bo’ness Spice, the quality of Curry served this evening was definitely beyond the Mainstream. We need to meet Mohammed and remind him of this day, we need to fully experience the other attractions of Borrowstounness.