Brighton – Curry Leaf Cafe – Brighton Lanes – More Thali

Posted on September 29, 2021 by Hector

Back to Brighton, UnBarred may be Hector’s favourite Bier venue in all of the UK presently, so the opperchancity to return to the south coast was grabbed with much enthusiasm. Lunch afore was required, and where better than Curry Leaf Cafe – Brighton Lanes (60 Ship St., Brighton BN1 1AE England) whose Thali impressed back in July.

The Lunchtime Menu was once again provided. Uncannily, Marg opted for Pepper Pork Ribs (£6.95) the Dish which was considered last time, but dismissed when told it was very much a Starter. This would suit Marg. Unknown to Hector, she also managed to sneak in an order of Mini Poppadums & Dips (£3.95). No matter what would appear, The Curry-Heute Campaign shall always consider this to be a waste of money.

Lord Clive of Crawley and Hector were here for the Thali Platters. Having not been in the mood for Meat in July, I had the the Aloo Gobi Masala (£11.75) which was not on the Menu today, nor was the Lamb Rogan Josh (£13.95) had by my fellow diners. That the Menu changes is hereby established. Today Hector was having Lamb – Rajasthani Lamb Laal Maas (£13.50) whilst Clive chose Goan Chicken Xacuti (£12.95).

Knowing the quality of Bier awaiting later, only a 750ml bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.00) was added to the Order, a bottle of tap water was secured also.

The Poppadoms, sorry, Mini Poppadums, were accompanied by three Dips, or – Chutneys – as the Menu suggested – Tamarind, Mango and Chilli.

That mango was excellent – was Marg’s conclusion as she nibbled on her crisps.

The wait for the main event was not long. In terms of value for money, it is clear that the chaps had fared appreciably better.

Thali – Rajasthani Lamb Laal Maas

Two Onion Bhaji sat in the middle of the tray almost obscured by the pieces of Poppadom. Marg already had her eyes on the Bhaji. Two Dips and two Sauces would have to be investigated. A strategy would be required to maximise the enjoyment of the pot of Potato and Peas – Aloo Mutter. A light and fluffy Naan sat on the side of the tray, for once being quartered was sensible else too much space would have been occupied. With the accompanying Rice, this was more Bread than Hector could ever manage, Marg would assist here also.

Having become an expert in how to tackle the mass of food on my tray, the Rice was flattened and the contents of the Curry Pot poured over. The Shorva was quickly absorbed by the Rice. I arranged the Aloo Mutter on the side of this mass, and then one’s genius was called into action. One of the Dips, Lime Pickle was sat on the edge of the Curry. I had now created multiple options: Meat with Rice and Shorva, a Diversity of Vegetables, and the possibility of Achari. Furthermore, one of the larger pots was a runny Daal with Tomato, this would later moisten the parts of the Rice the Shorva had not reached. What an array, stunning in presentation, and so many permutations.

The remaining, single Bhaji was my starting point. There is no such thing as – Onion Bhaji – Marg and Hector were told in Jaipur. Clearly though there is now, but Bhaji will always be inferior to Pakora. The ratio of Vegetable to Batter in Pakora sits better on Hector’s palate, Bhajis always seem too basic, Batter and stringy Onion, never as satisfying. Was this why I was not upset about one going – table right – or was it because I appreciated just how much food  I had to get through?

I counted eight pieces of Meat, their Texture varied through soft to tender. The Spice Level impressed, quite a – kick. In time the Seasoning came through from the Rice-Shorva mix. The Potatoes were suitably soft and added another source of Flavour. Then it was time for the climax courtesy of the Lime Pickle. Having dipped the Naan in each of the Dips/Sauces, the Pickle astonished. An Achari was therefore created for the next part of the sequence, what a blast of Flavour! Excellent.

As a Dip, the Daal was not impressive, once poured over the remaining Rice and the surplus moisture drained away, the Lentils were revealed. The Meat long gone, the end game was Daal-Rice, a suitably veggie conclusion to the feast.

I had two pieces of Naan and a pot of Sauce remaining. I hadn’t worked out what this final pot was about. Did I miss out on something here?

Thali – Goan Chicken Xacuti

The greenness of the Masala was the distinguishing feature of the Curry. With Tamarind, Cinnamon and Star Anise, I can only presume that this was tasty. With no – assistance – Clive did well to eat as much as he did:

According to the menu, it had every spice under the sun in it. The sauce was excellent, the chicken was – chicken. The Lime Pickle was good.

*

Pepper Pork Ribs

A Starter indeed, but once seen, a temptation for the future. But I couldn’t then consider a Thali to follow. Marg of course had this plus that which she had  purloined from the ever so generous Hector.

Succulent and sweet, tasting Pork Ribs, a lovely change for me. The Naan (stolen) helped mop up the honey sauce on the side. Oh, and the Onion Bhaji (stolen) was crispy, tasty.

Do people actually finish this? – I said to the waitress as she cleared the Thali trays.

Sometimes, and I’m impressed – was the response.

So no embarrassment then.

The Bill

£40.35    OK, a bit indulgent for a lunchtime, but bunkers were required for what followed.

The Aftermath

I don’t usually give a second Calling Card, however, if Hector is going to make himself recognised on his sporadic visits to Brighton, then this felt like the correct strategy.

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Loanhead – The Radhuni – The 10th Anniversary Celebration, and more

Posted on September 27, 2021 by Hector

On – The Glorious Twelfth – back in 2018, Marg and Hector visited The Radhuni (93 Clerk St., Loanhead EH20 9RE) by invitation. The meal was arranged by Scott and Julia Thornton of – Hotel PR – who invited us to join in the celebrations this afternoon of Radhuni’s 10th Anniversary, a – VIP reception.

Arriving just after 13.30, we heard the strains of – the pipes – and saw the assembly outside enter the restaurant. Even with a prior awareness of Radhuni’s extensive interior, I was still taken aback by how modest the shop front is. Then there’s the outside seating area to the rear. 

Habibur Khan, Mein Host, was in the line-up to greet, the first face I recognised. Mujibur could only be his brother. As the formalities got underway, the father of the business – Matin – acknowledged the – VIPs – present which also included Peter Small, Provost of Midlothian. Marg and Hector, VIPs? Most certainly not, but perhaps it does reflect an awareness of Curry-Heute in the Scottish Curry scene.

Scott was the Master of Ceremonies this afternoon. On introducing Habibur, he made reference to Habibur’s dynamism, a quality that was recognised in the award for – The Outstanding Service Award – during the pandemic. In addition to supporting the local community, Habibur’s team raised a significant sum to support the NHS and served thousands of free meals to front line workers.

From 2019, the – Best in Scotland – award also featured in the many photos taken this afternoon. Who wins awards?

Matin relayed the origins of the family business in Dalkeith some thirty five years ago. Itihas (Dalkeith) remains Matin’s principal focus, however it is remarkable what Habibur has achieved in a decade.

On receipt of the invitation, it was the promise of – Canapés – which sparked Hector’s interest and therefore had Marg and the Curry Hound make the journey through from the west of Scotland. Un mercenaire, moi? Puris were presented first followed by Vegetable Samosas. Mighty Meat Samosas followed thereafter, each amuse bouche being served by the staff who were also charged with replenishing drinks. Dare I mention the – free bar?

Chicken Pakora could well have been the food highlight, but when the Seekh Kebab arrived, there was no doubting that – we were being fed. Here for the food? Why should Hector fabricate a defence? Julia hopes that Marg and Hector will be tasked with reviewing a Curry House in Bo’ness. One venue there does appear to be the standout. Hopefully that’s the one.

*

Speeches and Canapés were not the only items on this afternoon’s agenda. Walker’s Crisps, yes they who had a football pundit (can’t remember him achieving much on the field of play) amuse us for many years, have a new flavour – Madras Curry! The recipe for – Madras Crisps – was inspired by The Radhuni.

Samples were distributed, I have yet to taste them. Hector tends to only have Curry with Bier, and today was not a Bier day. Did I mention the – free bar? Despite not taking advantage, the generosity was much appreciated. I certainly had my full share of the – Canapés.

There was an ongoing flurry of photography, Hector even had the SLR on duty today, gravitas. Ironically, the self imposed non-flash limitations meant that not all the food was given worthy coverage. The Chefs had their photos taken then the front of house staff in turn.

I asked Habibur when he intended opening this evening. 17.00 – was the answer. There was even more work for the staff to restore the restaurant to its normal layout. We took our leave, an enjoyable afternoon. Today, promotion was seen to work two ways: The Radhuni (& Walker’s) feature in Curry-Heute, whilst the latter in turn has some recognition for promoting Curry across this land.

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Glasgow – Akbar’s – A Big Night Out for Two Happy Couples

Posted on September 25, 2021 by Hector

There was a small congregation at the doorway of Akbar’s (573-581 Sauchiehall Street G3 7PQ) as the four of us entered at 19.30 precisely. Those without a reservation were held inside. Hector of course, had planned ahead and once greeted by Imran, Mein Host, we were quickly led to our table in the far corner of the busy restaurant.

This is the biggest assembly of people I have witnessed at a restaurant in recent times. If people are going back out for Curry in Glasgow, this is where they are choosing. In passing, I admired Imran’s extra facial growth, very well groomed.

Navid, our waiter for this evening, introduced himself. He served us last time Alan, Tracy, Marg and I dined here together which unbelievably was two years ago. Perhaps we had better examine our diaries and arrange our next night out in 2022?

Menus were brought, as expected, there was an increase in prices, but not across the board. Sundries have been held to possibly reflect that at the Mother Restaurant in Bradford, they wouldn’t get away with charging the nonsensical prices otherwise charged for Bread in Scotland. However, beware of the Cheese & Onion Nan and Keema Nan both now £4.45. Chapattis remain a sensible 75p whilst Hector’s favourite Coriander & Chilli Nan is still £2.95, and given what comes, this is tremendous value!

Drinks

A Saturday night out in a licensed restaurant, even Hector foregoes his customary Sparkling Water. Tracy’s 330ml bottle of Cobra (£3.75) did not seem to be as good value as Hector’s pint at £4.00. Marg, who had the car, stuck to Cola (£2.25) whilst Alan decided he wasn’t messing about with glasses of wine when the bottle (£18.45) would do. The Drinks took a while to arrive, in the interim, Navid was back asking about Poppadoms. Knowing my fellow diner’s propensity to say – yes – the Hector was back on duty.

Normally Imran would send them – I informed him.

Navid pondered momentarily, said he would consult then changed his mind:

I will send them.

Success! And how it should be. They know we’re out for the night and The Bill will likely top £100.00.

Down to business. Despite Hector’s appetite being significantly reduced after Lockdowns 1-3, there was no way the Meat Chops (£4.95) could be passed over. Alan felt likewise. Marg announced that she would have one of mine, no change there then. Alan then declared no, Marg would have one of his. He too was worried about being able to do his Curry justice, or is it that waste-lines have expanded in the last eighteen months? As per last visit, Tracy went for the Chapli Kebab (£4.45).

For Mains, Hector went back to basics – Karahi Ghosht (£9.95) whilst Alan would have the similar Karahi Ghosht with Spinach (£9.95) as he did last time. Tracy would have the same but with Chicken (£9.95). The offer of Chicken Tikka Karahi & Spinach (£10.95) was not declined. For Marg, a repeat of my choice in this company last time, and a Curry, the recent memory of which I am still recovering from – Karahi Fish (£9.95). Coincidentally, Marg had Karahi Ghosht on our last couple’s night. Three Chapattis and one Coriander & Chilli Naan almost completed the Order. There was fine tuning to care of. Last time, Alan found his Karahi to be not as Spicy as he would have liked. Tonight he was asking for Medium-plus. I suggested he guarantee the – kick – by joining me in – Desi style. As ever, I asked that no Capsicum appear in my Curry. Marg, who shares my – loathing – was willing to take it as it comes, a good test.

We had Poppadoms and Dips, I took a sufficiency. We had Drinks, it was an appreciable amount of time before the Starters arrived, the place was that busy and departing customers were being replaced.

Meat Chops

Only one was recognisable as a – Lamb Chop – per se. Four, smallish, pieces of Lamb, well marinaded, not cremated, but still mightily tasty. Eating four was not a problem, there was no way our Mains would arrive immediately after our Starters.

Sharing – apparently part of the English language, was discussed by my fellow diners. I was too busy gnawing on bones to participate. Umami! Much fun. Hector must have Lamb Chops at Akbar’s, and still the best value anywhere.

Chapli Kebab

A pair of very well fired Kebabs, they didn’t last long.

As the table was cleared, Navid enquired as to how much of a break we needed, I chose the maximum on offer. When finally, we were ready, I called Navid over, he got things going. This makes Akbar’s a standout venue, the Mains come at the time of your choosing and they are going to be served – hot.

The arrival of the Naan is always a moment of celebration. This is as good a Naan as one has experienced in the extensive travels for Curry-Heute. The size impresses, but it’s the quality of the Bread: puffy around the edges, thinner in the middle for those who prefer it less doughy, and the sight of blisters forming. The Chapattis would be eaten, Hector’s Help would follow on. There’s also a Family Nan (£4.50), heaven forbid.

Actually, the Family Nan may well be part of Chef’s Challenge 1 (£14.95) for those who may be interested. I also note – Back To Our Roots – the Chop Handi (£9.90) must be be enquired about, one day.

Four Main Courses, four sets of comments expected, maybe not today, we’ll see.

Karahi Ghosht

Bradford Curry, the Meat is cut small so the count becomes irrelevant, there’s enough here, more than enough. As I stirred the Masala, there was possibly a bit more than one might be served in Hector’s favourite Bradford venues. Ironically, I have probably not been to Akbar’s at source unless I can confirm they were at their present locus back in 1996-7. If so, they were my favourite Bradford Curry House. No notes, no photographing everything in the pre digital era.

The Bradford Curry Taste! It was evident from the start. I could see no sign of Herbs, so maybe – Methi – is not the clue as to what makes it so distinctive. The Seasoning was a tad low, I didn’t care, I had the Flavour I was looking for, and the Spice Level was through the roof. Alan pointed out I had was taking in Chillies from the Naan, indeed. A word of warning, don’t order this unless one is certain of one’s Spice tolerance.

The Naan has to be mentioned again, it was the perfect accompaniment. No Garlic to confuse the palate, the required Herb supplement was given, the kick, the texture of the bread, all complemented the Meat and Masala superbly. In time, I had to abandon the Bread to ensure the Curry was finished. The Spice Level plummeted to something more kosher, time to relax, take in the final few mouthfuls. OK, more Naan to mop up the final film of Masala, here we go again.

The Karahi Ghosht was excellent in its own right. I have not mentioned – Oil – no need, any surplus had been well dabbed off before serving. I hope I have praised the Naan appropriately, however, this meal was definitely a classic example of synergy, what a combination.

Karahi Ghosht & Spinach

Topped with more Coriander than any of the other Dishes served this evening, the Herb content in the Masala was not overtly visible. This is how Hector prefers his Palak/Saag, not a mass of Green Mush.

Alan made no reference to the Spice Level this evening, however, on completion of his Chapatti, it was time for Naan, he no doubt shared Hector’s pain. A Soupçon was left over for Takeaway, Alan’s words were decidedly few:

Superb food and even better company.

Just the twenty five months since we last dined together.

Chicken Tikka Karahi & Spinach

Here the Herb content was more visible, but was still very much a case of Masala with Spinach. Tracy expressed her – amazement – from the start, Curry of this quality is no longer served in Helensburgh.  I suspect collaboration, Tracy’s addition to these pages was also kept to a minimum:

Great food and even better company.

There was a bit more than a Soupçon left over, another Takeaway.

So it goes.

Fish Karahi

This is what a Fish Karahi should look like. Curry-Heute is not about damning other venues, especially my favourites, however, I am still getting over last Saturday’s Fish Karahi served at... Tonight, there was no peripheral Oil. I studied Marg’s progress, the Oil which did collect on top was hardly noticeable.

Flaked Fish, yet the pieces appeared discrete in the Masala. This is typically my go to Curry at The Kashmir Restaurant (Bradford), I know this style well. Indeed, as is written above, I had it here last time we four dined together.

Marg was playing the game:

The plate was full, plenty Fish for one. I enjoyed the Coriander with the Masala, and it complemented the Chapatti and the stolen Coriander & Chilli Naan. It wasn’t – wow – but good enough.

There was another Soupçon to go home also.

Does this mean that both Marg and Hector still seek the ultimate Fish Karahi that will blow us away with Flavour and Texture? It must be out there, somewhere.

Coffee for three was ordered: two Espresso (£2.95) and a Milky Coffee (£2.45). None for Hector, far too late. Then it was time to pay up.

The Bill

£110.90     a third of this was for liquids, which further highlights that the food is value for money.

The Aftermath

We were happy, the staff were happy, farewells … and maybe these two happy couples shall return together within twenty five months?

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Clydebank – Hot & Spicy – Needs Must

Posted on September 23, 2021 by Hector

It was a long day. Alighting at Clydebank Station, the customary late night Donner Kebab from Hot & Spicy (18 Alexander St., Clydebank, G81 1RZ) is usually more than sufficient. A standard Donner is enough for two, going – large – is beyond extravagant. With – everything on – the Donner Kebab at Hot & Spicy lives up to the name of the Takeaway.

However, as I entered Hot & Spicy at 23.10, the mind drifted towards Curry. Cafe Punjab, the restaurant, has long gone, the name lives on at Hot & Spicy, the turbaned Chef maintains also. Ordering Curry here is therefore a rarity, last time I was given a Chicken Curry to accompany my Donner thus a review was commanded. It wasn’t bad at all. Tonight I ordered off menu: Lamb, Dry not Soup, Spicy plus, and no Peppers. Bhuna – was suggested, message therefore received. I asked for a Special Rice (£2.60) with the same caveat. I couldn’t make out what the Rice compromise would be, I had to trust the serving chap who certainly knows me. Had I ordered a Vegetable Curry?

The Bill

£10.50   More than double the price of a kebap.

Whilst I waited I was able to track the buses which would take me up Kilbowie Road, things were looking good, no taxi required. My Order was presented in no time at all, well what else can one expect? Yadgar, this is not.

Still hot on reaching Hector’s House, no further heating was required. On decanting the Rice, I finally understood what the chap had said to me. Potato and Cauliflower featured in the Rice, a bigger plateful than a Hector could ever eat, leftovers inevitable.

Bhuna Lamb

Half cooked Tomato stood out in the Thick Masala Mass which appeared to have Herbs in the mix. I counted ten large pieces of Meat, each would be halved, in theory, two could easily have had a decent meal from what lay before me.

There was a suitable – kick – but the Seasoning was way below that which one seeks. The Lamb and Masala were strangers, apart from – meatiness – the Lamb had little to offer this Curry. Having ordered the Vegetable Rice, there was certainly – Diversity – on the plate.

The Cauliflower retained some firmness, well presented, the Potato was suitably soft. Sadly, the Potato had not been exposed to any Spice until the point of serving and so was giving little in the way of Flavour. Worse, the Rice was decidedly stodgy, there were relatively few individual grains of the Basmati one expects, broken Rice? Disappointing.

The anticipated – Clydebank Curry Taste – was not prominent, success! Here was a bog standard Curry, it wasn’t – Soup – there was some Flavour, not a lot, it did the job. Tonight it was very much a case of – needs must.

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – A Curry-fix

Posted on September 22, 2021 by Hector

After Saturday’s disappointment, there was the feeling of having missed out. The monthly – Curry-fix – at Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) was deemed necessary. Ah, but it’s a Monday afternoon, and my last attempt at ordering my customary Karahi Lamb (£9.00) was thwarted, no Chef.

Arriving at 14.20, Ayaz, Mein Host was at the door. With pleasantries exchanged, I took my preferred seat on the right. The front of house chap greeted:

Usual?

Please.

He turned to the other Chef to relay the Order. Ayaz was soon installed in the cooking area, he can cook a very fine Karahi Gosht. Chef Rashid must be off on a Monday.

The offer of Salad and Raita was declined, a jug of cool tap water was secured. A Chapatti (£0.80) was confirmed as the accompaniment.

As I crossed the River Clyde, I stopped to record the rapid progress being made on the Barclay’s site. How many more quiet days will I be able to enjoy at Karahi Palace when the thousands discover this humble, but outstanding establishment?

The serving chap asked if I could help on a technical matter. The phone number seen by many is no longer correct, Google Maps? Hector does his best to ensure that the accuracy of information on this useful medium is maintained. As I identified the problem, so Ayaz brought the food.

Karahi Lamb

Hot and sizzling, how I champion Curry served in such a manner. Coriander Leaves and Stems plus Ginger Strips topped the Masala Mash. The boneless pieces of Meat today looked – flat – an interesting cut. Sucky Bones were present also, an ideal mix.

Tomato skins stood out in the Masala, closer examination revealed a plethora of Tomato Seeds. This could well have been a Tomato-based Masala, whatever, it was wonderful. With the peripheral Oil stirred back in, every mouthful was a joyous experience.

Finely chopped Green Chillies upped the kick, we had Spice, but a lower level of Seasoning than when Chef Rashid presents Hector’s favourite. He knows to add extra Methi, extra Salt.

The Meat was beautiful, the full on Flavour of Mutton was prominent, piercing through the Tomato-rich Masala. I found myself eking out the substantial Wholemeal Chapatti. How is it that I can always eat an entire Chapatti at Karahi Palace, sometimes even thinking about another?

Today I took the time to record my Chapatti shovel with the Masala which highlights the Tomato and Chillies. The amount of pleasure sourced from this alone makes me wonder if the Meat is actually required? But then, why would one choose to miss out on the outstanding quality of Lamb served today?

Superb Curry.

I went up to the counter to confirm that – 0141 429 5442 – is their desired number. Google have been informed, it’s now outwith my hands.

The Bill

£9.00     A free Chapatti for helping?

The Aftermath

And so back into town. Monday, it appears, has become the new Friday.

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Glasgow – Ambala – All’s well…

Posted on September 18, 2021 by Hector

Steve joined Marg at Ambala (11 Forth St., Glasgow, Scotland, G41 2SP) for Hector’s ritual Saturday afternoon Curry. The rendezvous was 15.15, just after Marg’s hockey commitment.

Fish Karahi (£11.99), Hector’s choice of Curry-Heute felt like a sketch from – The Two Ronnies – i.e. having the Curry previously thought of. This must mean there was regret at my not having the Fish Karahi at The Kashmir Restaurant (Bradford) last week. Marg would have Keema Karahi – Peas (£9.50), why can’t you have Potato and Peas? Having studied the Menu, Steve announced Desi Karahi Gosht (£14.99) which I suggested he change to Lahori Chaska Lamb Karahi (£14.99). If he was going for the half kilo, he may as well guarantee having the signature Curry at Ambala.

For Marg, her customary solitary Chapatti, Steve the Plain Paratha (£2.99), for Hector an Aloo Paratha (£3.80). A stream of chilled, bottles of tap water would suffice as the liquid.

We waited the appropriate time, the Lahori Chaska has to be hand crafted.

The Plain Paratha arrived first, it did not appear to be particularly Paratha-like. Having had Paratha here in the past, I have at times managed to secure a layered and flaky Paratha. Ambala’s menu describe theirs as – crispy – this was in neither camp. The Aloo Paratha had but a smear of Potato inside, Peas featured also, I had hoped for something more substantial, i.e. resembling the mighty Aloo Paratha served to us here  last month. The Wholemeal Chapatti did its job, then Marg came hunting for Hector’s left over Bread.

Lahori Chaska Lamb Karahi

Steve was not expecting this. This may have been his first encounter of the large, flat karahi. With a somewhat spectacular sight of Lamb on-the-bone, topped with sliced Bullet Chillies, Ginger Strips and Coriander, I wondered why I hadn’t changed my mind and share the kilo with Steve.

The Masala looked pulp-like and pale, no needless – red – here. There was ample Oil on the periphery which could be mixed in with the Masala. Plenty of Meat, of course, a half kilo on-the-bone is easily managed, boneless, maybe not.

Very tasty – began Steve – I wasn’t expecting it on-the-bone. A wee bit oily.

And as for the Paratha – Disappointing, bit too thin.

Keema Karahi – Peas

The Mince and Peas had the same toppings, quite a few of the sliced Bullet Chillies found their way into Hector’s Curry until Marg realised that she might be done for manslaughter. Beautifully Dry, one has to wonder so many venues get this Curry wrong. There was but a hint of peripheral Oil, and any Masala had been well absorbed.

Marg struggled towards the end, perhaps the extra Aloo Paratha after her Chapatti had filled her? A Soupçon would go home along with two pieces of the Plain Paratha which means Hector has his say here:

Dry, with an Earthy Flavour, a bit more Seasoning required for Hector’s palate and the addition of Methi would have made it excellent. As for the Paratha, who’s kidding who? This was not layered, it had an air pocket. In what way was this a Paratha?

Fish Karahi

What was Masala, what was Fish? Some restaurateurs are afraid to serve Fish Karahi in case the Fish turns flaky. In Bradford, this is the style, it works. Today I had a Mash of Masala (?) and Flaked Fish with some larger pieces. I can only identify the Fish as being – white.

I quickly became aware of the fact that I had more than peripheral Oil. Each spoonful of Fish removed saw Oil collect in the cavity. I created a sump on one side of the karahi, this worked to an extent, a puddle formed. Still, I felt the Oil was an issue, each mouthful of Fish was simply too wet. Looking back to when I last had Fish Karahi at Ambala I had a similar experience – not too pleasant – was the euphemistic conclusion. A different Chef back in 2018, today I was hoping for something much better.

I attracted the waiter’s attention:

Can you ask Chef to remove the Oil please?

Hector had just sent a Curry back!

Whilst my Fish Karahi was in the kitchen, I told my fellow diners about the time when Mr. Shabir Hussain, proprietor of Akbar’s, the Bradford based chain, had his Chef in the Glasgow branch show me the implement used to soak up surplus Oil before serving. Hopefully, something similar was being done today.

Another waiter came to check on our progress, I had to tell him that I had sent my Curry back, so now everyone knew.

The Karahi returned, it looked better and the food had a reheat, quite a boost. I ate on, but the damage had been done. My stomach was sending out signals – stop eating this. All I was getting was pulp and Oil. Had the Aloo Paratha made more of an impact, there might have been a distraction, sadly, it was too bland. So it goes.

The waiter had new information as he cleared the table: Chef had added Ghee at the point of serving. Why make an Oily Curry more-so?

The fish was still swimming in the oil – was Marg’s concluding remark. Hector would never say such a thing, or write that in in his Blog.

I had to excuse myself from the table at the end of the meal, and to be clear, not a consequence of the previous minutes.

The Bill

For once I cannot report a precise sum. Thirty two something – said Marg when I returned. £11.99 had been scored out, Chef reportedly had said that I should not pay for my Curry if I did not enjoy it.

The Aftermath

There was a quiet exit. The continued wearing of masks may have had something to do with the usual wave from the kitchen not happening.

By coincidence or otherwise, Zaheer, Mein Host, posted a photo of all the Ambala Fish Dishes on a certain social medium a few hours later. The Fish Karahi bears no resemblance to that served today.

The search for the perfect Fish Karahi continues.

Meanwhile, the Soupçon

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Glasgow – The Village “Curry House” – Something for Everyone

Posted on September 13, 2021 by Hector

What are your plans for today? – asked Marg, as she tends to do.

I fancy lunch at The Village – I just hung that out there.

And so we headed across the river to The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA) where hopefully the Lunchtime Menu would have been restored. Arriving around 13.30, the first thing to note was the change in skyline. Check-in, still required, was duly completed. We were shown by the waitress to a window table, four other couples were sat similarly. It was good to see that something resembling the former seating capacity has been restored. Mr. Baig, Mein Host lingered in the distance.

Lunchtime Menus were provided, a visible tweak in pricing since I last took the opperchancity to have this. A large bottle of Sparkling Water was asked for, no longer available. The thought of paying of paying £3.90 for two half litre bottles felt wrong, yet we have probably paid more for the litre. A well known and reliable source proves we paid £2.95 for the litre here last visit. Glasses of tap water were provided.

The Lahore 2 Course Lunch (£7.95) includes a Starter and a limited choice of Curry, though back in the day when the Glasgow Ladies were running the lunchtime show, there was a knowledgeable flexibility. A Palak Gosht  was once served to Hector in what must have been amongst the final – Curry Lunches with Mother. Keema remains an option.

Unsurprisingly, the staff at The Village has changed, the young waitress and chap bringing the Curry were unknown to Hector, and vice versa.

The Order was taken, Vegetable Pakora for us both, Lamb Curry, boneless for Marg, on-the-bone for Hector. There was a surcharge, 50p for Lamb, £1.50 for Lamb on-the-bone. Already I hear people asking why pay more for possibly less Meat? The Curryspondents know that Lamb on-the-bone is in a different league in terms of Flavour. I would have Rice, Marg the two Chapatti option. Two Chapattis? There would be Bread for Hector.

The waitress returned momentarily to ask who was having Lamb Curry on-the-bone? Typically, a Lunchtime Curry is served here with the Rice on the same plate. I asked for them them to be separate – so as to share. What is this – share – word that keeps appearing? Fine for Sundries, no way for Mains, kilos aside.

Vegetable Pakora

Three large – warm-hot – pieces of Pakora and a cold Chilli Sauce. It would have been better if both had been hot a la Karahi Palace and Yadgar. Spicy Pakora, and surprisingly filling. Quantity wise, well judged, after all this is Lunch.

In recent times, Hector has had issues with the size of the Rice portions served a la carte at The Village. Hector always has an issue with something at The Village, as a long established customer, I feel it’s partly up to me to help maintain standards through this medium.

Today, the Rice was comparable to what one could otherwise pay £2.50 for. Marg took what she desired, I was left with more than enough to accompany the Curry portion. After the thin, standard Chapattis of Bradford, the Glasgow, thick, puffy ones were immediately more substantial. Marg as expected, took care of one, I would manage but a half.

Lamb Curry – boneless

Lamb Curry – on-the-bone

The Coriander garnish distinguished them for the serving staff. The Masala in the latter may be a bit darker, both blended. I counted six pieces of Meat, two of which were on-the-bone. In addition, there was a solitary Sucky Bone, no Meat attached. For Lunch, definitely more than adequate, but do compare with my most recent visit to Kabana (Manchester).

Very tomatoey – was Marg’s immediate observation.

Tomatoey, yes, red, no. The Masala at The Village is what had Hector eat here multiple times a week in the early years of the millennium. I couldn’t get enough. Moderately Spiced, it’s all down to the Seasoning which of course matched the Hector idyll. I removed a tiny piece of Cinnamon Bark, Marg didn’t have this. A – Clove blast – took me back to Manchester. The Masala is what sets The Village apart from the Mainstream, ah The Village Curry Taste. This is why I was here, Manchester and Bradford in recent days, The Village can reliably follow on.

Marg had a Village Curry, Hector had this, plus.

The Bill

£17.90   Mr. Baig took the payment.

The Aftermath

I spotted the Specials Board, albeit blank, my cue to ask if they would be making a return. Hector still dreams of the long gone Laal Lahori, though I see that the online Takeaway Menu has Ginger Lahori Lamb on-the-bone. I note also another long time favourite the Tawa and most importantly, Village Desi Korma – Lamb on-the-bone which has been missing from the in house Menu for some time. Also added, Afghan Karahi by the kilo, a future birthday treat?

Mr. Baig acknowledged the Afghan Cuisine and was keen to tell me of the planned reorganisation of the Takeaway area. Kebab and Pizza will be separated, plus, Ready Curry will be available, presumably kept hot a la Manchester model in kettles.

There’s something here for everyone. Let’s hope people will return in numbers.

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Bradford – The Kashmir Restaurant – Decisions, Decisions

Posted on September 11, 2021 by Hector

For the final Curry of this trip, the venue was always known. Curry for lunch in Bradford has to feature The Kashmir Restaurant (27 Morley St, Bradford BD7 1AG England). Fish Karahi (£8.50) has been Hector’s favourite here for many years, however, two days ago at Sultan Restaurant, Keema with Spinach was planted in the mind. Keema Spinach Masala (£7.50) it would have to be.

With luggage in tow, Marg and Hector entered Kashmir just after our noon checkout at nearby Jury’s Inn. Both regular staff greeted – We’re going home – I informed them.

Marg fancied her fallback Samosa (£1.00). The Order was given, Chapattis would accompany, three inclusive here, still.

A jug of tap water, a modest Salad and Raita were brought, no messing around.

We were the first diners of the day, more would arrive. It took only a matter of minutes to bring the food, all very efficient.

Samosa

A pair, not the largest Vegetable Samosas ever seen, but still, a decent snack. Marg held up one Samosa to show me the interior, Potato appeared to dominate. All was well here.

Keema Spinach Masala

Surprisingly – brown – the Keema was suitably Dry with no sign of surplus Oil. Tomato protruded from the mass, with but a hint of Herb, not the dark green that was anticipated.

Three standard Chapattis, I would make the effort to manage two. As ever, this would mean overdosing on Bread. Once cannot have Rice with a Curry such as this.

There was Seasoning, there was Spice. Bradford Curry is by definition Herb-rich, if there was Spinach present it was subtle. Ironically, this is how I prefer it, an overdose of Saag/Palak is not necessarily my cup of tea.

Second Chapatti taken care of, as has become the norm of late, neat Curry. This is far from being my preference, but is a reflection of the appetite.

Marg watched me clear the plate, the irony, I order Mince, she doesn’t.

The Bill

£8.50     No extras.

The Aftermath

Farewells and off to Bradford Interchange. There was a display of classic cars at Centenary Square.

Strange how our timetable permitted this final Bradford Curry. Hopefully I’ll be back before the end of the year, if not, January is guaranteed.

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Bradford – International – Not what it was, but still I go back

Posted on September 10, 2021 by Hector

Sheesh Mahal (6 St. Thomas’ Rd, Bradford, BD1 2RW) is where Hector had his heart set for this evening’s Curry. Actually, Curry was not the objective, but more of the truly magnificent – Fish – which Omar served Steve and me in June. That and Lamb Chops. Alas, things have not been going well for Sheesh Mahal of late, the hygiene inspectors recently gave them a rating of – 1. On our return from the Goose Eye Brewery at Crossflatts (Bingley) I phoned to confirm the Sheesh was open and that my fantasy Fish Dish was available. The Sheesh was open, there was no Fish.

International (40-42 Morley Street, Bradford, BD7 1BA) became the inevitable fallback, they too were found to be lacking in the hygiene department a couple of years back. Surely these businesses must learn that the rules are in place for the benefit of all?

An end of evening Curry? What happened to lunchtime and the man who would visit three Bradford Curry Houses a day? A very British Brunch was had in Haworth. Marg likes Howarth.

It was 22.45 when we entered International, the new illuminated signage was not. What was wrong with the original? I spotted a table opposite the counter and confirmed we could take it. I have sat under the stairs too often of late.

Marg was only having Lamb Chops (£4.95), for Hector, the Curry which Steve found to be – amazing – back in June: Lamb Masaledar (£10.95).

Despite being sat in a prominent position, we were not being served. Eventually one of the army of young waiters came to take the Order.

We haven’t been given Menus yet!

Poppadoms were declined, back in the days of Khalid and Ali these would have been on the table in an instant. The waiter stated that the Lamb Chops were a portion of five, astonishing value if so. The Menu has the Lamb Masaledar down as having a three Chilli rating. I asked for – Medium, plus.

Hot, Asian style – said the waiter as he made his notes.

I asked for a Chilli and Coriander Naan, not on the Menu, this request was possible.

No Garlic, it tends to dominate.

I get your point – was the reply.

This chap was on the same page. I asked what he would have suggested, Lamb Karahi (£10.95) was his preference. So it goes.

The counter had four empty tins of Bier. Chaps sitting at the window table opposite me plonked four tins on the table as they took their seats. I do not recall this being a feature of late night dining at International in former times.

Lamb Chops

A pile of Lamb Chops sat before Marg, the count was four, they appeared to be scrawny. The latter proved to be wrong. Marg observed that they had been folded and skewered, so the Chops were appreciably larger than they first looked.

Compared to the epic meal across the table, Marg took no time at all in devouring the well cremated Lamb Chops. Four, all to herself, what has Hector created?

The round Naan was shiny, but as requested, no Garlic Butter had been used. This was an excellent Naan, the Chilli would enhance the Spice Level of the Curry, the Coriander add to the overall Flavour. Light, not too doughy, we both tore in. Marg was having this as a second course.

Lamb Masaledar

The – fresh coriander – garnish was decidedly minimal. I always appreciate a wedge of Lemon, Citrus can add a new dimension. The Meat had been cut – Bradford small – and was surrounded by probably more Masala than one would expect in a Bradford Curry. The Oil was – as I like it.

The Naan was used to mop up the Masala, in a few minutes I had reduced it to the expected quantity. In doing so the Spice Level was noted as being right up there, a Spicy Curry featuring sliced Bullet Chillies accompanied by Chillies on the Naan. The Seasoning was right where I wanted it also, this had the makings of something special, but where was the Pickle? It wasn’t there, not a trace. Had Chef blundered?

I took another photo at the halfway point. This looked more like a classic Bradford Curry, suitably drier. Full of Bread, it was time to attack the neat Curry. It was only at this point that the Herb Flavours were realised, The Bradford Curry Taste at last.

I took a timeout. The Flavours were coming across strongly on the palate, the tongue was throbbing. Marg helped herself to a couple of bits of Meat. Once the shock subsided, she was back for more. No way would I have finished this Curry without Marg’s assistance. Marg was taking this in her stride. What was going on here? Between us we finished all but a scrap of the Naan and some of the sliced Chillies.

An enjoyable Curry indeed, but where was the Pickle?

The Bill

£19.85  The Naan was £3.95, £1.00 more than the others on offer. Once upon time, it would have been inclusive.

The Aftermath

I took photos of The Kashmir Restaurant across the street, it is many years since I dined there of an evening. One thing was certain, tomorrow, I would be back for my customary lunch, the final Curry of this trip.

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Bradford – Sultan Restaurant – this could be The Last Time?

Posted on September 9, 2021 by Hector

The Rickmeister has had a bee in his bonnet regarding the possible relocation of Sultan Restaurant (219 Manningham Lane, Bradford, BD8 7HH England) to Frizinghall opposite the former – Turf – pub, of course we all know where that is. The premises are a former Italian Restaurant, The Man from Bradford was worried that Sultan may be going posh. Then there was the possibility that this was a new outfit altogether.

Arriving at Sultan this afternoon around 16.00 just before the heavens opened, all would be made clear, in time. The new address was given, premises some two kilometres north of their present location. But when will the move be? Still questions to be answered.

Ricky suggested that he and Dr. Stan have the Koftay (£8.00) if available, or Keema Karahi with Spinach (£7.00) otherwise. Marg was definitely having Keema Karahi (£7.00), her second Curry of this trip, two in three days, so far. For Hector on his fourth visit, it had to be a return to the impressive Handi Gosht (£8.50) enjoyed on Visit #1. Back in 2018, a taxi driver insisted I try Sultan, it was duly added to the extensive list of Bradford Curry Houses covered in Curry-Heute. There could have been more visits here, alas being closed on Mondays and Tuesdays has not helped.

Ricky talked Dr. Stan into sharing a Starter, Seekh Kebab (£2.00) would have been Hector’s guess, but no, Meat Samosa (£2.00). Chapattis for all, included in the price it’s a Bradford thing.

A young waiter came to take the Order, the availability of Koftay was confirmed, we had happy chaps. Medium-plus was requested for the male diners, medium for the lady. I was specifically addressed – on-the-bone? It had to be. Next it was Marg – Peas, Potato? Marg opted for – The Works.

A simple Salad was brought accompanied by a bottle of Raita which I was assured would be Spicy. A jug of tap-water was the provided liquid, no messing about here.

*

*

The Samosas didn’t last long. Ricky led the way, insisting that once bitten into, Dr. Stan filled the void with the Raita. The Rickmeister always tells us his vision of the women of Bradford sitting in their houses making Samosas all day, the very ones appearing in the Curry Cafes and Restaurants across the city.

The Mains arrived, not the largest portions ever seen, and definitely on the small side compared to the mountains that Hector has been served at the Kabana(s) (Manchester) in the past two days. I counted the pile of Chapattis, eight, more than enough, though three each is still the norm at certain venues.

Handi Gosht

Here it was, the definitive Bradford Curry staring up at me. The rich brown, thick Masala had but mere traces of Oil. I didn’t count the Meat, even allowing for the bone content, this would more than suffice.

Being later in the day, the appetite was a willing partner, let the eating commence.

The Taste of Bradford, Herb-rich, Methi no doubt, Coriander Stems were visible as well as Leaves. This was glorious. The depth of Flavour was astonishing, an intensity not experienced in some time, magical moments. Medium plus? This Curry had a big kick, the Seasoning was exactly how a Hector seeks it in Curry.

The Meat was giving Flavour, something one cannot take for granted. It had the – right level – of chewiness. Sucky Bones too, the Flavours, oh how rich the Flavours, this Curry was stunningly sensational.  I feel like another trip to Bradford has to happen soon, just to have this again. With Sarina’s Curry Kitchen (Queensbury) still only serving Takeaway presently, Sultan Restaurant is becoming the must visit Bradford venue. 

For the record, I ate my full Chapatti quota.

Keema Karahi

Study the photo, observe how the Minimal Masala simply shrouds the Potato. Again, the Herb content was visible. The quantity also appeared to be an elegant sufficiency.

Marg gave her verdict:

A good mixture of Keema, Peas and Potato, gave the dish more body. The initial taste was hot and spicy, but my taste-buds soon became accustomed to the flavours. I enjoyed one and a half Chapattis, a very pleasant meal.

Koftay

… or Kofta Anda as this would be called in the Curry Cafes of Glasgow. Four Meatballs and two halves of hard-boiled Egg. One Egg is always… Steve ordered this very Curry back in June, but Seekh Kebab had been substituted for Meatballs.

The Masala was closer to Shorva than anything I have ever seen Ricky order, so like Hector, he too must have come to accept that this is how it has to be.

There was not a lot of conversation going on, and whilst I took the notes for my own wonder-Curry, there were appropriate noises opposite.

Kofta Anda is one of Hector’s favourite Desi Dishes, but given the limited number of visits to the Curry Capital, one cannot have everything. My next visit to Sultan will be for more Handi Gosht, maybe Koftay the day after.

Mein Host came to our table, here was the opperchancity to have our remaining questions answered. He promised the Curry will be just as good when they move to Frizinghall, and they are not turning posh. As to when, it’s all a matter of tradesmen turning up to finish that which needs to be done.

This could be The Last Time? At these premises probably. Frizinghall has its own train station, bring it on.

The Bill

£33.50 is what we thought. At the door was a sign advising that all Mains are an extra £1.00, and Starters 50p more. There was a whip round, Cash only. £38.00 in all.

The Aftermath

With Marg’s umbrella borrowed, The Rickmeister fetched his car to the door and saved at least three of us from a soaking. Hector and Marg are at Jury’s, for reasons unknown every Travelodge in the Leeds-Bradford area is quadruple the normal price this weekend.

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