Manchester – Kabana – As You Like It

The train home tomorrow was chosen to permit one final lunchtime Manchester Curry. After this afternoon’s feast at Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1LQ England) even Hector has reached his limit.

Steve and Hector arrived at 13.40,  having let the lunchtime rush pass through. Seven diners, plus one thankfully quiet wean, were replaced by a group of students whilst we ate. Prices at Kabana must suit the student budget.

Rizwan, Mein Host, knew we would return, one visit per trip is never enough. Steve was going to have – something else – but even he could not resist the opperchancity to have a final Karahi Lamb (£5.30) on-the-bone – with Rice (£1.50) for Hector, a Chapatti (£0.80) for Steve.

Did you enjoy the Quails? – asked Rizwan. He had sent us to the sister shop – Kabana (Cheetham Hill) for their – Wednesday Special. This could well become a new ritual Curry.

My final Manchester Curry is usually with luggage. Instinctively, I went to the rear of the restaurant and squeezed on to the table. It was a squeeze. When Rizwan brought the Curry he moved the table, Steve’s turn to breathe in.

The – foliage – was brought to the table.

Karahi Lamb

What more can I say about this wondrous creation?

Enjoy the photos of the neat Curry, on Rice, and then each with the added foliage.

Karahi Lamb (on-the-bone plus – foliage)

Being hours earlier than our Monday visit, I knew the quantity would be a challenge. I took my time and savoured every mouthful. Steve was wiping his plate clean as I did a Meat count, still in double figures. OK, Rizwan spoils us.

I asked Steve for a few words:

The seat was uncomfortable.

It was, front of house in future.

A slightly different taste from the other day – he added – spicier, more intense.

Can the Karahi Lamb at Kabana actually get any better? What we have observed this week is that Steve’s Curry experiences with Chapattis have been different from mine with Rice. Rice definitely acts as a Flavour filter.

As I write this, I’m missing it already.  Steve, Dr. Stan, Howard, Neil, when is our next trip to Manchester-Bradford?

The Bill

£6.80 and £6.10 respectively.

The Aftermath

I had noted the football scarf adoring the photo on the far wall.

R.I.P. George Booth, a life too short.

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Manchester – Kabana (Cheetham Hill) – Quail, A Wednesday Special

Having made the mandatory pilgrimage to Kabana in the Northern Quarter on Monday, Rizwan, Mein Host suggested we try the sister shop – Kabana (Cheetham Hill) (133 Cheetham Hill Rd., Manchester, England M8 8LY) run by his brother, Mani. On Wednesdays they serve Bateera/Baterai/Quail, poultry that Hector has only encountered twice in Glasgow at the first ever visit to Sheerin Palace, and later when Hari put it on for us at the much missed Punjabi (Charing X).

My first question was – how many Quails in a portion?

The answer – two – was satisfactory. The Man from Bradford was once served a solitary bird … expletive deleted. Footery – does not begin to describe the eating of this micro-bird, one is never un oeuf.

My rendezvous with Steve was 13.30 at Kabana, I caught up with him at the foot of Cheetham Hill Road. We entered to find a few tables occupied, the rotation of customers was ongoing. I asked for Rizwan’s bother, a chap pointed to his right, this was Paul, business partner of Mani, they share days about. I missed Mani last time I was here, maybe it will take a wedding in Glasgow for me to meet the family together? (I’ll keep setting reminders.)

A portion of Bateera (£6.50) was ordered with Rice (£1.80). Rice with Quail? Steve took the more traditional Chapatti option. Hector is not eating Bread with Curry presently.

The – foliage – was on the counter, a fourth pot, brown seeds of some sort. I didn’t ask, Coriander, Green Chillies and Diced Ginger is quite enough. A customer overheard our order – what is Quail? – he asked. I will admit to – sparrow – being referenced in my reply. When I told him it was a – Wednesday Special – he was up for it.

Paul ensured that we had a full jug of water, his staff were never far away, we would be well looked after.

Bateera/Quail

Baterai is how I have come to call this delicacy in Glasgow. This pair looked substantially larger than those encountered previously. Spooning Rice over the Shorva did feel a bit silly. I immediately knew that half of the Rice would go to waste, a portion enough was to share.

After yesterday’s strange experience at nearby Real Taste, I sampled the Masala before I tackled the Meat or Shorva-soaked Rice. Here was the standard Oily, Blended Desi-Masala, the type of which I cannot bring myself to ever replicate. This has never put me off ordering it, especially after I was put in my place by a Curryspondent commenting on a subsequent visit to Sheerin Palace.

My first bite into a solid was a moment of horror – Black Cardamom – whole, huge, pay more attention, Hector! Start again. This time I pulled off one of the Quail legs, Sucky Bones with a difference. Mmmmm, tasty, no – Wow! – too little Seasoning for the Hector palate. Reality addressed, I continued.

Brown meat, absorbent, in the way that the most popular White Poultry served in a Curry House is not. The skeleton bones were placed on the space on the Rice plate, quite a pile was forming, I felt almost apologetic for eating this poor animal. However, when the first was done, I was certainly happy to start on its partner. Peppercorns and pieces of Cinnamon Bark were carefully set aside, no more Cardamom. I couldn’t help but notice, across the table, Steve had none of these solids. As with yesterday at Real Taste, he may have been experiencing a different outcome.

Steve mopped up all the remaining Masala with his ample Wholemeal Chapatti. The blue towel roll sat on the shelf beside us, handy.

The Quail was delicious – reported Steve – bony but enjoyable. The sauce was up to the usual Kabana high standard.

The Bill

£8.30 for Hector.

The Aftermath

As I waited to pay I sneaked the opperchancity to photograph Meat being cooked on the open grill. A staff member immediately invited me to the other side of the counter to get a better shot. From there I also snapped Paul. Moments like this enhance the quality of coverage in Curry-Heute.

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Manchester – delhi2go – Anything Else?

Come tomorrow for anything else – were Chef Shahid’s parting words as we left delhi2go (119 Oldham St., Manchester M4 1LN England) in the early hours of this morning. This felt like sound advice, Steve and Hector have eaten a lot of Curry in the last three days, it was surely time to sample other features of delhi2go’s extensive Menu?

Marg has had Wraps here in the past, not really my thing. Last night I spotted something that would tempt – Seekh Kebab Wrap (£3.80). Steve had grander things in mind – Mixed Kebab (£8.50), and Chips!

I took my favourite spot and waited to be summoned back to the counter. Being our third visit here on consecutive nights, the new staff had recognised us. Indulgence may begin to describe what followed.

Seekh Kebab Wrap

The young chap pointed to the array of Salads, Sauces and Pickles. Hector was having his money’s worth. The Salads went on, whole Pickled Chillies, more Salad, then the Spiced Onions. The Spiced Onions I knew were excessive and would alter the entire nature of what I had ordered, but does one not enjoy a Seekh Kebab with Spiced Onions?

Mixed Kebab

I managed to capture Steve’s – Mixed Kebab – before it too was smothered. I left him to it, haste became the order of the moment, home before the Salad cooled.

Seek Kebab Wrap continued

Such was the level of added liquid, the Wrap itself stood no chance. On attempting to pick it up, it was obvious that disintegration was imminent. The Cucumber was trying to escape, the Spiced Onions too. There was nothing for it, open up the sticky mass and eat as one would a Donner Kebap.

And so the entrails of the Seekh Kebab Wrap were exposed. So much – healthy Salad – I convinced myself, the Pickled Chillies seemed like an added bonus.

Then there was the Meat, by this time, a near afterthought. I’ve had bigger Seekh Kebab, I’ve had better Seekh Kebab, I’ve never had the privacy to get stuck in like this before.

Tomorrow night, a Gourmet Burger, and whilst I shall not be reviewing it, the inevitable photo will be added to the ever expanding coverage of the Fayre served at delhi2go.

An update from Steve when I asked him the next afternoon why he had ordered such a bounty:

I don’t know why I did that either.

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Manchester – Real Taste – One Curry Pot : Two Different Outcomes

Real Taste (21 Broughton Rd, Cheetham Hill, Manchester M8 8LZ England) showed up on a search in Google Maps, a new venue, or one not spotted before? I agreed to meet Steve at 13.15 outside the Curry Cafe.

En route up Cheetham Hill Rd, I took in the stretch that is evolving into “The Northern Curry Mile“. Real Taste adds to the growing cluster. I passed the four venues which have been reviewed in Curry-Heute in recent years. The other Kabana is in the diary for tomorrow – Baterai/Quail – on a Wednesday.

This is my sort of place – I said to Steve as we walked into Real Taste. With six tables, each accommodating four diners, we would have our choice. Had we arrived ten minutes later, it was standing room only. A popular venue.

The Menu was on display boards, one for each day of the week. Mein Host talked me through the contents of each kettle, Paya was there, not for Hector. Lamb Karahi it had to be, a safer choice, and necessary for comparison purposes. Having seen the Oily Shorva, I asked for Rice, the logical choice. Steve ordered two Chapattis.

The Bill

£5.00    Cash only, and I was apparently charged at the rate for – Rice and Three. Steve paid £6.00.

Lamb Karahi

Steve’s plate had the naked Curry, no foliage today. He uttered an immediate – Wow! It’s got taste! – as he dipped his Wholemeal Chapatti into the Shorva. I was still getting myself sorted, expectations were high.

The Rice absorbed a fair quantity of the Desi Masala, the excess sat atop. I counted the Lamb served on-the-bone to double figures, a huge portion for the price. The Meat was wonderfully soft, having sat for some time in the Shorva, it had taken on a good Spicy Blast. This is the Manchester Curry Cafe scene.

The Spice Level was therefore commendable, the Seasoning was decidedly low. Where was the – taste – which Steve was enthusing about? Had it been taken in by the Rice? I watched a watery residue collect on my plate. Any Flavour had been lost.

Across the table, Steve was still enjoying the moment. I dipped my spoon in his Masala, wtf? This had it all, Seasoning and the Desi Flavours one seeks. This Curry came from the same kettle, we saw it being served, one can only deduce that going second had made the difference. My Masala came off the top, Steve’s was from much deeper down the rabbit hole.

The Curry House filled up, the chaps beside us polished off a mass of food, how can they put away so much Bread? Hector’s slower eating pace meant that tables were becoming free again. Mein Host came out to sort the chairs at the adjacent table, the opperchancity to present the Calling Card.

That went down like a lead balloon – I said to Steve. OK, Mein Host was busy and I doubt he understood what I had showed him. We bade a warm farewell as we departed, this was reciprocated.

The Aftermath

Having felt a bit done out, I resolved that there would be more food this evening. I popped in to delhi2go last night, Chef Shahid is keen to cook for Hector.

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Manchester – delhi2go – Spice Recurring

23.45, and the late night munchies reign supreme. Last night when I dropped into delhi2go (119 Oldham St., Manchester M4 1LN England) to reacquaint myself, Chef Shahid promised to cook for me, as in something – off menu. In January last year, the same offer was made, then I had Delhi Achari Lamb Daal, a Curry with everything. I sourced the photo on a well known and reliable Curry Blog, I would have this again.

I knew none of the front of house staff, no Mohammed, no Mian, not even Amer, the animated chap.

I asked for Chef, Shahid was straight out from the kitchen, greetings once more. All was set. Did Steve order the same? I don’t know, I had already taken my favourite table at delhi2go, from there all can be observed. Crucially, this seat is within the range of the camera to record the latest edition of the Menu on the display boards. Curry looks like an afterthought, though this simple board does provide a comprehensive range.

I watched plastic tubs being arranged on the table opposite, ah, a familiar face. This was trusting, all it would take was one late night nutter to come and send them sprawling, very trusting. We watched the tubs being filled from an industrial sized bucket, a day’s supply?

*

Shahid brought the Order to the table, surely proud of his creations. There is always a photo. The foil and plastic cutlery puzzled, delhi2go have proper crockery and utensils, or they did have. Shahid told us that due to the ongoing situation they threw out their metal knives and forks. So it goes.

Delhi Achari Lamb Karahi

Given the limitations, this was a work of art. Large Red and Green Chillies topped the creation with Coriander and a slice of Lemon. Below lay a dark, thick Masala with split Lentils protruding from the mass.

The Rice at delhi2go is so much better than plain Basmati, it adds more than just being a filter to neat Curry. As ever, the dilemma: add Rice to the Curry, or the more traditional – add the Curry to the rice. Given the relative sizes of the foil containers, tradition went out the window.

The Meat was cut small, approaching Bradford-small. Chewing was at a minimum, so delightfully Tender. There was a Big Spice Hit, then the Achari-Pickle registered. This was going to be one ferocious meal, no holding back here, full on Flavours.

Shahid was still at the table, keen for confirmation that his efforts were being appreciated. Oh yes!

This was a classic Dry Curry, minimal Masala, yet still moist. I was glad I had Rice, Bread might have been too intense. The Spice kept hitting hard – Spice Recurring. The Pickle guaranteed that this Curry was not all about the heat. The Lentils provided more Texture. I was loving this late night treat. Thank you, Chef.

Steve had something completely different, Bread too. We had to ask Shahid to identify his other creation:

Lamb Karahi

Topped with leaves and stems of Coriander, whole Green Chillies stood out in the dark, thick, Masala. As Steve ate, so many more Chillies emerged, again, no prisoners being taken here. Steve’s level of enjoyment was approaching ecstasy, he too was having a ball. I took a Soupçon, despite the Hector palate being laden with Achari, the efficacy of this Curry was still apparent.

Tender Lamb – began Steve – full of flavour, perfectly spiced, citrus flavour? A Light Naan. Wonderful.

Whilst we ate, a mature chap entered, his body language was that of – I own this place. As he inspected behind the counter, I asked Shahid if this was – The Boss. Mohammed, uncle of the Mohamed I know as – Mein Host. I gave him a Calling Card as he departed, sometimes it creates interest, not tonight.

The Bill

£11.40 each, and paid by card accordingly.

The Aftermath

Shahid told us that he is off on Wednesday – come tomorrow for anything else.

It’s about time I tried something other than Curry from the extensive Menu.

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Manchester – Kabana – Comforting Curry

Due to the inflexibility of the Scottish Vaccination booking system, Hector’s last trip to Manchester at the end of May had to be abruptly ended. Steve also missed out, so it was fitting that a few days here were conceived.

Arriving in Manchester about 15.30, a half hour later than planned, (why do Avanti never give me refunds?) there was a not so quick check-in at Ancoats, then around the corner to Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1LQ England). I had informed Rizwan that I was coming – what shall I have?

The two other ever-present staff members spotted us as we entered, beaming smiles of acknowledgement. Rizwan then posed for the ritual photo. Being late afternoon, the place was empty, only four other diners were present, not the usual lunchtime throng.

My choice of Curry here is long established: Lamb Karahi on-the-bone (£5.30) with Rice (£1.50). Steve pondered for a nanosecond –

I’ll have the same.

Rizwan said he would bring it over. I assume it’s the reheating of the Rice which stops the Order being served in an instant as is the system in operation in the Northern Quarter Curry Cafes.

Lamb Karahi

This is the naked Karahi Gosht, enjoyable as presented, however, to give it the edge, – the foliage – has to be added. The three tubs of Diced Ginger, sliced Green Chillies and chopped Coriander were brought to the table. A suitable smothering was applied, we finished the Coriander, and were offered more.

I like Coriander with my Curry – I assured Rizwan – not Curry with my Coriander.

I told Steve that I would be looking for a hundred words from him at the end. My enjoyment of this Curry has been well reported, suffice to say, consistency is the name of the game. Line up twenty from different restaurants and I’ll pick this Karahi out. This is distinctive, comforting Curry.

The warmth of Flavour flooded across the palate. The blended Masala gives so much Flavour, that which is absorbed creates a Super-Rice. Cloves, certainly, and whatever else is in the mysterious blend of Spices.

Just what the doctor ordered – said Steve as he tore in.

Astonishing – was Hector’s reply.

A separate plate was provided for the bones, some were – Sucky. The quality of the Lamb which Rizwan sources never fails to impress. The best I have experienced in the UK? Tender of course, and well cooked into the Masala, this is Curry of the highest order.

Rizwan joined us our table periodically. I told him that I would not be here every day during our stay, tempting as that is.

I have to explore other venues just to prove that you are the best.

Rizwan suggested we visit the other Kabana on Cheetham Hill Rd run by his brother. On Wednesdays, his brother serves Quail/Baterai. I was assured that a portion contains two.

Business here in the Northern Quarter has suffered due to the lack of office workers, whereas Cheetham Hill has hardly been affected, a different clientele. With the continuous redevelopment of the Northern Quarter, I’m certain that Rizwan will acquire more locals. New venues have also reportedly opened, but many, we were told are Grill Houses only. Kabana for Curry.

Rizwan spoke of a family member being married in Glasgow later this year. Hector may well get an invite, food is guaranteed. It would be interesting to see how many of the community I recognise.

We were due to depart, the heavens erupted, having been soaked yesterday, Hector was not for leaving. The conversation continued, matters – Curry. Rizwan does read Curry-Heute however, I brought him up to date with my most recent and carefully considered post, OK – rant – about the price of Prawn Curry. There are no Prawns at Kabana, and no Fish Karahi. I’ve had the Fish here, but it is not served as – Curry.

The Bill

£6.80   Paid twice.

The Aftermath

The rain continued for another hour, we sought refuge at Cafe Beermoth before heading down to – Society – Manchester’s newest attraction which also features Indian Street Food.

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Glasgow – Mother India’s Cafe – Saturday Brunch

Noon on a Saturday, how many of Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses are open north of the river? When Marg realised that we were heading to Mother India’s Cafe (1355 Argyle St, Glasgow, G3 8AD) she was on board, no way would she miss the opperchancity to have her favourite Butter Chicken (£6.00). Maggie was making her inaugural visit, for Clive, his third. Hector knows these things, a well known and reliable Curry Blog records all.

Maggie considered Butter Chicken, but when two Dishes were suggested, she jumped at Fish Pakora (£5.20) and Methi Keema Mutter (£5.95). Both Maggie and Marg would have Basmati Rice (£2.20), the Lemon Rice with Nuts has evidently been dropped from the Menu, else the Specials have yet to be restored.

Clive would have the Methi Keema Mutter also, along with Lamb Karahi (£6.20) and a Garlic Nan (£2.15). Hector’s choice was as predictable as ever: Machi Masala (£5.80) and Lamb Saag (£6.20) with a Paratha (£2.15). Litre bottles of both Still and Sparkling Water (£4.15) completed the Order. Having to pay for water without bubbles always riles, especially in Scotland.

At Mother India’s Cafe, the Tapas Portions tend to arrive when each individual Dish is ready. It was therefore a welcomed surprise when the Fish Pakora arrived first, as a Starter should.

Fish Pakora

The five large pieces of Pakora still managed to look incidental on the plate which also had two dips and a Modest Salad.

Plenty of fish in there – Clive assured us. With only five pieces, none was crossing the table, one day Hector must sample this, will that mean foregoing the Fish Curry?

The Nan was a good size, and appeared to be light and fluffy. Marg challenged that the Paratha was so, closer to a Chapatti she thought. I had to point out the – spiral – and the layering. However, this Wholemeal Paratha was unusually – Dry. The Butter filling had been fully absorbed, and it may well have been cooked without adding more. I’ve had better Parathas.

Machi Masala

This Dish has evolved over the years, the Masala has certainly become more – orange but remains delightfully Thick and Minimal, enough to cover the Fish. The standard Topping of Ginger Strips was accompanied by a raw Tomato cut in half. Had it been cooked in, the Tomato might have offered more.

The taste of well-Seasoned Fish and a decent level of Spice, the comparatively dry Paratha provided a counterpoint. I could eat this every day, yet as I reached the end I realised that I wouldn’t wish any more than had been served. This Curry is remarkably rich.

Butter Chicken

This was different! The abundant Creamy Masala was there, however, the Walnuts and blobs of Cream topping each of the three largish pieces of Chicken was a work of art. Marg only used half of her Rice so the Masala proved to be far from excessive.

Marg explained to Maggie that what makes the Butter Chicken here so special is the – kick. Creamy Chicken Curry – yes – bland – no.

Methi Keema Mutter

Suitably Dry, there was no sign of surplus Oil collecting on the periphery, a healthy Curry.

Clive had his with Bread, Maggie with Rice, the Naan may well have been the better option. Clive cooks this at home regularly, Maggie described how she came to appreciate the presence of Hector’s favourite Herb. She always enjoyed Clive’s Keema Mutter, but when when the Methi was incorporated, the experience moved up a level. Both enjoyed their choice today.

Lamb Karahi

Sat in the metal pot, this Curry looked inviting. Clive sought confirmation that I had had this previously. I explained why I stay clear of it. Over the years, waitresses have insisted the Capsicum is already in, Chefs have been unable to remove the offending Ballast.

Clive tipped the contents of the pot onto his plate, the Capsicum count was almost acceptable, again Tomato had been added as a garnish. The five large pieces of Meat that I could count sat well in the attractive Masala. Another winner.

Lamb Saag

It looked a bit wet on top, it’s all about what lay below. Six large pieces of Meat, I had to halve each, this was substantially more than Tapas. The Masala was exactly how I like my Saag/Palak, Masala with Herbs, not a mass of Herb-mush.

Having eaten about half of the Paratha, I lost interest, that was enough. Marg’s leftover Rice became attractive. I too tipped the contents of the pot, but on top of the Rice. In doing so I revealed large strands of Fresh Spinach, imaginative, an excellent touch.

The Spice Level surprised, appreciably more than on recent visits. The powerful Flavours from the Herbs overcame the lingering – Fishiness – on the palate. Sultry, Earthy Flavours from the Herbs complemented the distinctive Meaty Lamb-taste, Umami!

Not to have this would mean missing out. One day I’ll have to sample the Lamb Chops (£8.00) and revisit the South Indian Ginger Lamb (£6.50).

Marg, whose time was limited, sneaked in a Coffee before the rest of us had finished.

Four happy diners. Next time, the screens will have gone and tables restored to their former position. It’s two more days until Scotland drops the majority of the Covid restrictions, but not all.

The Bill

£59.50    We had eaten well.

The Aftermath

Every member of the front of house staff thanked us as we departed. Always appreciated.

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Glasgow – Ambala – Prawn Curry, don’t start me…

… you’re reading this, so I have. Prawn Curry, a waste of Prawns, a waste of money, has been Hector’s opinion for decades. Marg disagrees, (insert name)‘s favourite is Prawn Curry, so be it. A significant percentage of people also order Chicken Curry, Curry-Heute has many posts where the limitations of – Chicken in a Masala – has been reported. Anyway, back to today and the celebrated arrival of Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley in Glasgow for the first time since New Year 2020. What took so long? They arrived in Glasgow by boat, another first.

We were seven for Curry-Heute, Ambala (11 Forth St., Glasgow, Scotland, G41 2SP) was chosen as being a venue where I knew there would be enough Chefs on duty mid-afternoon to accommodate the predicted diversity of Dishes being ordered, and have them arrive together- hot! Normally, Hector would be calculating how many kilos of the excellent Lahori Chaska Lamb Karahi (£24.99) would be required, not today.

We arrived within seconds of each other at the appointed 14.00. On entering, only one table was occupied, moments later, another large family group arrived. Curry in the afternoon, is it catching on?

No Starters, at least sense was prevailing initially. After the truly amazing Lamb Chops enjoyed here last week, Hector was in the mood for more, but this time as a Curry – Lamb Chops Masala Karahi (£12.99). I know this is a cheat, Tandoori Chops, smothered in Masala works so well at International (Bradford). Yadgar and Karahi Palace, however, present their Lamb Chops Karahi with the Chops cooked as a – Curry, proper.

Mags was wondering why I was not having the aforementioned Karahi, she chose the Desi Karahi Gosht (£14.99) which may or may not be the Lahori Chaska with a different moniker. I must remember to ask Zaheer, Mein Host, for clarification. Marg returned to form and would have Keema Karahi (with Peas) (£9.99). Having informed Clive that – Dhansak – was not on the Menu, he took the opperchancity to explore the Fish Karahi (£11.99). An honourable choice, and a Dish not had here for some years. Hector has this seed planted.

I heard King Prawn Karahi (£17.99) being mentioned. Marg did comment on the seemingly inflated price. Nevertheless, Maggie, Craig and Yvonne all opted for the Prawn Curry.

On announcing my choice to the waiter who had looked after me last week, there was a virtual shake of the head. I suspect he knows the standards, his advice was to go for the Desi Curry. The kilo was ordered, Mags, sitting diagonally across from Hector, would save money by sharing.

Rice with Karahi, a no go area at Karahi Palace, but once upon a time, an acceptable ritual at Yadgar when the stomach capacity was greater. Hector was in the mood for Rice, Pilau with Peas (£2.99) was ordered for three (Maggie & Craig). NB: Prawn Curry with Rice – £19.98.

Marg and Yvonne each ordered a solitary Chapatti (£1.30. Then there was Clive, a Mince Paratha (£3.99), because he could. Keema with Fish? Only Clive does this. Mags would have the more sensible Aloo Paratha (£3.80), she needed to source her obligatory Potato from somewhere.

Bottles of ice-cold tap water were provided, no nonsense here.

The wait was lengthy. Yvonne realised that the Desi Lamb Karahi is prepared to order. We had catching up to do anyway, so not an issue. It was around 15.00 when the food appeared.

Mince Karahi with Peas

The Coriander and Ginger Strips sat prominently with the Peas protruding from the top of the mass of Mince. A Green Chilli sat on the periphery where normally the excess Oil would accumulate. No surplus Oil here, this was an excellent example of the genre, a moist Curry, not the lake as served at Lahore Kebab House (Whitechapel) a few weeks back.

With the exception of the abundant whole Green Chillies, cooked in, Marg ate the lot, an unusual occurrence. Hector’s plate would acquire a mound of Chillies. The Chapatti was modest in size so Marg had not over-filled on Bread:

A good helping with a high level of spice, and most enjoyable.

Mags’s Aloo Paratha was served on a huge wooden board, this was one mighty Paratha! Pieces would be offered, there was way more than the average person could manage.

Clive was taken aback by the temperature of his Mince Paratha, he couldn’t touch it initially.

Once his asbestos fingers came into action I spotted the telltale layer of Meat which Curry-Heute classes as – Donner-like. Individual grains of Mince are regarded as superior in these pages, however, Clive devours all types with vigour.

Fish Karahi

This certainly looked like a worthy Fish Karahi. Again, Coriander and Ginger Strips topped the Karahi, but here was a viscous Masala featuring seeds which I could not identify. With only a modicum of peripheral Oil, this looked most appealing.

Fish Karahi has been – hit & miss – over the years of visiting Ambala. A sense of – Fish – not always present. With the new Chef, this is definitely back on Hector’s radar.

Excellent, good level of spice – declared Clive, who may have been copying Marg’s homework – a sharp spiciness, very good, and plenty of it.

*

*

Desi Karahi Gosht

I am sticking to this moniker because the Masala was appreciably different from that previously experienced in the Lahori Chaska, this was – Shorva-esque. In addition to the Coriander and Ginger Strips, sliced, large Green Chillies featured.

Rice with Karahi, today, this proved to be the ideal accompaniment. The surprisingly thin Masala, soaked into the Basmati, creating truly Flavoursome Rice. This was way better than I had anticipated, however, the underlying Flavours were not. This took me way back to the earliest memory of Green Gates tasting Curry, and so bore little resemblance to the Lahori Chaska. Not as rich, but still something to enjoy.

The Lamb was on-the-bone. Hector, ever the gentleman, let Mags go first. Only at the end was it realised that she had carefully selected the majority of the boneless pieces. This was where Karahi with Rice became difficult, with Bread as the accompaniment, never a problem. The Lamb was suitably Tender, tasty, and gave no sense of being a stranger to the Masala. There was no need to count the Meat, two generous helpings each reduced the mound and led us to the end game. After you, Mags. Two well sated diners, Mag’s verdict:

I thought it was marvellous, the sauce and the spice, bravo to the chef. I could have eaten another half kilo.

That, I would like to have seen.

King Prawn Karahi

Here we go…

More Coriander and Ginger Strips, the orange Masala looked similar to that in the Fish Karahi. The Big Pot? I asked Yvonne to count the Prawns. Eight. So, eight Prawns in Sauce.

Maggie ate her Prawns but left the majority of the Masala. Three weeks ago, she succumbed to the bug that has spread across the planet during the last two years. Her taste buds have registered little of late. That her nose was running (Yvonne’s wouldn’t do that) was possibly the only effect which let Maggie know she was having Curry. Surely today could have been Vindaloo Day?

It made my nose run – admitted Maggie – (it) must have been spicy. Prawns not as succulent as I would have liked, a bit – Kalamari.

(Kalamari, rubbery Squid, the Ballast in an otherwise worthy Seafood Pasta.)

Craig, who usually orders a – Baby’s Curry – managed what was presented, but this was right on the cusp of his Spice Tolerance. He assured me that he enjoyed it, however the – hefty price – was his pointed remark.

Very good, but not worth the money – was Yvonne’s verdict, and now for Hector’s.

Prawn Curry, the easiest Curry to make, by far. Take a prepared Masala, throw in some Prawns, pre-cooked or otherwise, stir for a few minutes, serve. Farmfoods sell a bag of frozen Prawns for @£6.00 containing twenty plus King Prawns. What then is the wholesale price?

The kilo of Lamb Karahi at £24.99 was priced at approximately double what one pays the butcher for a kilo. Three portions of Prawn Curry were served from the equivalent of a little over one bag of Prawns. £53.97 therefore for just a bit more than a £6.00 bag of Prawns, a 900% markup. There’s more, below.

Everyone was enjoying their Curry, the anticipation of this being the reason why I nominated Ambala. Zaheer came over towards the end of our meal to acknowledge our presence. Positive noises were duly uttered, as they had to be.

Craig and Yvonne left to catch a train into the city centre.

Clive and Hector watched the three ladies order ice-cream. Why not let the pleasure of the Curry linger on the palate as long as possible?  Sweet over Savoury?  Again, I cannot compute.

The Bill

£129.01      £64.07 was for Ice Cream and Prawns.

The Aftermath

A license to print money – is how Craig described Prawn Curry when we assembled later.

Can someone explain why there is always an excess charge for Prawns on every menu? Just how can ordering a Prawn Curry gives others so much pleasure? The Masala becomes sweeter, some may enjoy this, Methi would cure that. Prawns and Masala, minimalist, hardly – Interesting. One should try Hector’s – Prawn Cocktail, that is a complex melange and has a – kick!

Fish Karahi, potentially so much more Flavour, yet these pages are full of examples where this was not achieved. And many venues are overcharging for – Fish – also. All this could drive you to ordering – Chicken Curry. Does this account for the many who do?

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Glasgow – Yadgar – The Gladiators Gourmandizing

It’s two months shy of two years since Dr. Stan last dined at Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP), that day we were five and demolished a mountain of food. It was Chapatti John, also present back in September 2019, who instigated our visit this afternoon, Hector made the arrangements. The customary text was sent – Please feed three. I also advised Shkoor, Mein Host, that we may not manage a comparable volume, this was duly noted.

We assembled either side of the arranged 15.00. There was time to take in the new decor from a different perspective. The redesign has been managed slowly, over the latter months of Lockdown. I put it to Shkoor that the recently arrived new tables should offer greater flexibility. As he related the policy of a slow, steady evolution, Shkoor placed a half-litre bottle of ice-cold Sparkling Water on the table. It is only eleven years since I first asked for this. John also joined the fizzy water party thus confirming the demand. Dr. Stan stuck with the Mango Rubicon, produced in the same plant as Irn Bru.

John asked what we were having. I had planted seeds but not made a specific order other than the Goshat Karahi. I had mentioned the ever popular Chapli Kebab and also – Fish. As reiterated earlier in the week when I – snacked – at Ambala, nothing comes close to Yadgar’s Fish Pakora, and as for the Spiced Haddock baked in foil, well … that’s a treat when available.

Naveed has yet to return after his travels, I must establish the names of the young chaps who have appeared during the time when Hector’s access to the Southside was restricted. Poppadoms, Dips then Spiced Onions were brought to the table. Don’t overdose on Poppadoms. Shkoor himself brought the first Starter, the thought of us as the three gladiators flashed through my mind:

Those who are about to dine, salute you!

Baked Sea Bass

At the point of presentation, all we knew for certain – this was not Haddock.

Four smaller Masala Fish, the Spices baked hard on to the surface. John thought he could see stripes suggesting Mackerel. My first intake generated an immediate – Wow! – followed by – Herring. The Spice, the Flavours, astonished. The intensity of Flavour, the – fishiness – was exactly what one looks for, we had to ask. Sea Bass – took us by surprise, never have we had Sea Bass in this league.

That’s my favourite dish out of an Indian to date – declared John. Dr. Stan had uttered his customary – Mmmm.

Three Fish, the fourth was divvied up, more pleasure.

Chicken Chapli Kebab

Two halved Chapli, one cannot visit Yadgar and not sample the Chapli. Even Spicier! – I noted. A completely different set of Flavours. The Chicken was incidental, it’s all about what was in the mix. A half each, plus a bit more, Shkoor was, as ever, doing us proud, and appeared to have taken my plea on board.

Strangely today, there was no Salad on the table, Pickled Chillies aside, this was not being missed.

There was a break, a much needed break. If the Mains come too soon there’s no chance of finishing. Initially, we had the place to ourselves. A family took the far away table, another family sat mid-room. I watched plates of Vegetable Biryani go to one table, Chicken Nuggets and Chips to the other. We used to have Vegetable Rice in our early days of dining at Yadgar, outstanding. A decade ago I could manage Karahi and Rice, no longer. I must come back and order Vegetable Biryani along with a portion of whatever the Curry on display happens to be.

A chap in a suit sat at the table adjacent to us. On seeing our pile of plates, he acknowledged us, and remarked about the quality of the Fayre served at Yadgar. He was having a Dessert whilst he waited for his Takeaway Order. Hopefully, this would be the only sight of Dessert today.

It was after 16.00 when the young chap brought a new set of plates and cutlery, followed by the Main Event.

Goshat Karahi

This is it, the Yadgarsignature Curry – so good that one does not visit the well too often. There’s – rich – and – richer – this is the – richest – of Karahi, I know I’ve had a few in my time. A hint of Creaminess reflects the Yoghurt added at the moment known only to Chef. Arshad was not seen today, his deputy, a quiet chap who always acknowledges, but never takes a bow, must have been responsible for what lay before us. Black Flecks of Pepper was the only other clue as to the contents of the Masala.

Ginger Strips and Coriander topped the Minimal Masala which clung to the Meat. The Lamb: medallions, leg of Lamb, Sucky Bones, and Lamb Chops! I encouraged John to get stuck in and wait for nobody. We were going to eat this, all of it. I served the Good Doctor, easier than moving the karahi.

The accompanying metal platter of Chapattis had arrived without discussion. What else would Chapatti John eat? Four, extra-large, super-thin Chapattis, a new style for Yadgar? Eating Curry without Rice or Bread seems just, wrong. For Hector, it is a medium to support the Masala, for John it’s the base of a Curry sandwich. John was unusually restrained, between us, Dr. Stan and I could only have eaten just over one Chapatti. John had failed to spot that there were four in the pile. A total misjudgement, Chapatti John left a Chapatti untouched. What a waste of food!

We were still dishing out the Lamb and Masala when our waiter brought a plate of Potato-Carrots-Peas – Alloo Gajar!

Alloo Gajar

Carrots were to the fore, followed by Peas. I made sure I secured a piece of Potato. When a Vegetable Curry is presented at Yadgar, it is always the icing on the cake. Usually it is Hector who leads the speculation as to how so much Flavour can be extracted from Vegetables, today it was John. Who knows what the base was for the Masala, well Chef does. We wondered if this Vegetable Curry was suitable for Vegetarians. (but not for long, see Update – below) Superb.

Meanwhile back on the Meat, John got his grumble in regarding Bones. His eating style makes Karahi on-the-bone more footery. Stan and I prefer it this way. As John extracted the Marrow with a utensil, I reminded him why we call them – Sucky Bones. Tender Meat, still requiring chewing, the joy of Lamb Chops cooked in the Masala, a totally different experience from Tandoori Chops.

Spice and Seasoning, the critical parameters, are never an issue here. There was a modest kick, nothing demanding, it’s therefore all about the Flavour, and this is where this venue’s Goshat Karahi wins. The Yadgar Taste – more prominent some days than others, today, the Karahi had it, as did the Alloo Gajar. Yum.

After our second round, we were down to the end game, the last Lamb Chop, a scraping of Viscous Masala, and next to no Oil. We would manage this.

And so we wiped the karahi and plate of the Vegetable side clean. Our waiter had asked if there was anything else we desired, Salad had been offered and declined. Our conclusion for today:

Salad must be the appetite killer.

There had to be an alliterative – G – that goes with – Gladiator – but, not guzzling I put to Shkoor, and certainly not gluttonous. Hector introduces:

The Gladiators Gourmandizing

I congratulated Shkoor on arranging the right amount of food.

The Bill

Our flat rate has not increased in the past two years, it should have. Paying the staff directly has been our means of walking out with heads held high. It all works out in the end.

The Aftermath

I managed to secure a few words from Dr. Stan:

Pretty wonderful, I’ve missed this. The fish was a wonderful starter, hard to believe it was Sea Bass. I enjoyed the Chapli, and the Curry had the right amount of spice.

Later, John concurred. The Goshat Karahi was up to the expected standard, the Sea Bass blew us away. Wonderful, indeed.

Update – Two days later

It is always pleasing when Restaurateurs contact Hector to keep one straight, it also confirms that some read these humble pages.

Shkoor texted Hector:

I can categorically assure you that we do not use any meat stock in our veggie dishes.

Now we know for sure, but are still left to speculate as to how the intensity of Flavour is achieved. As with the proprietors of AG Barr and the secret ingredients of Irn Bru, only the inner circle at Yadgar knows what goes into a Yadgar Curry.

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Glasgow – Ambala – No Curry-Heute!

Two weeks ago, due to chaotic opening times at The Downsman (Crawley), Hector was denied a portion of what, in these pages, has long been regarded as the best Lamb Chops in the nation. The notion could only be thwarted for so long.

Lamb Chops have only been had at Ambala (11 Forth St., Glasgow, Scotland, G41 2SP) once, back in 2018, on a particularity festive evening. Given the amount of work Zaheer, Mein Host does to also promote non-Curry Dishes on a certain social medium, the thought of coming here must have been subliminally planted.

I arrived at 14.30 to find one family group just finishing, two more sizeable groups would arrive during my stay. Is mid-afternoon dining becoming fashionable? The young waiter brought the latest Menu.

Whole Steam Roasted Lamb (£260.00) would have to wait for another day. Knowing what is planned for later in the week, I had already decided that I was not having Curry-Heute, two Starters was the plan. Lamb Chops – 4pcs – (£8.50) and Fish Pakora – 6-7 pcs – (£6.99) would be accompanied by a Mango Rubicon (£2.10) and a bottle of ice-cold tap water.

I watched the place fill, the waiter was being run ragged, help appeared, sorted. Hector had his water and fizzy drink, all was set.

Would both Starters arrive simultaneously, hopefully not. The Chops came first, accompanied by two Dips, yay.

Lamb Chops

I was expecting four, this looked like six, I counted four. These were seriously huge Lamb Chops. For Hector, and Marg, the perfect Tandoori Lamb Chop is cremated on the exterior, particularly around the bone shaft, but the Meat has to remain succulent. These four Chops were spot on, the seemingly extra piece of Meat dangling was an added pleasure. Burnt, succulent, Meaty, Umami! Akbar’s serve excellent Lamb Chops, these were possibly better, not possibly, definitely. These were the Lamb Chops I had dreamt about through Lockdown. Magnificent. There’s more.

The Salad on the platter added moments of Diversity/Distraction, the Chilli Dip too. The solitary Black Olive amused, the long, green Pickled Chilli was another treat. Hector was having fun. Thoughts of these Lamb Chops served as a Karahi – Lamb Chops Masala Karahi – (£12.99) came to mind. I’ve had this here once upon a time, again soon, please.

I was still enjoying my second Chop when the Fish Pakora arrived. As one knows from Yadgar, who serve the finest Fish Pakora on the planet, this is best enjoyed – piping hot – straight from the kitchen. Nothing was going to interfere with Hector and his enjoyment of his Lamb Chops.

Fish Pakora

I counted seven pieces, each a decent size, as I decanted the Fish Pakora to the metal platter which still had Salad remnants. The batter was a reddish-orange.

I feared the Pakora had cooled, it was still hot at the start. OK, it had lost its edge, but what a perfect partner to the Lamb Chops this would be. The Spicy batter was  (importantly) well Seasoned, the soft, white Fish beautifully fresh tasting. Haddock, what else could it have been? None of that rubbery nonsense here. The Dips added even more Flavour, but as they were cool, they became detrimental. Abandon Dips!

The waiter stopped to ask the customary question:

Everything good?

Yes, great Chops.

There was a knowing smile in response.

Hector was full. In the past, how have I eaten this quantity of food then gone on to eat a half kilo of Karahi? Out of practice, or have those days gone? I may find out in three days’ time.

The Bill

£17.59      I know where one can have Curry for less than that, here.

The Aftermath

Zaheer acknowledged me from the kitchen as I went past to wash my paws. The plan is to be back here mob handed next week. I wonder what I’ll have?

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