Curry-Heute

Holthausen (Düsseldorf) – Pak Royal Tandoori Art – Curry Near Benrath

Posted on June 9, 2022 by Hector

Holthausen? Anyone who has travelled between Köln and Düsseldorf has passed through Benrath. Who has ever alighted there? Today Hector did just that. Research had unearthed a Curry House of interest: Pak Royal Tandoori Art (Henkelstrasse 18, 40589 Holthausen, Düsseldorf, Deutschland). Hector makes no secret that when there are many Curry Houses to choose from, it’s Pakistani, not Indian, which are sought. Alighting at Benrath I took the U71 the seven stops further north to Holthausen. Pak Royal is located at the end of the shopping area in this Düsseldorf suburb.

The lights were on, it would have been a case of extreme frustration if Pak Royal had not been open all day as I had been led to believe. A one man show, Mein Host would also cook my Curry. I took my seat and was directed to a QR code on the table. Unfortunately, the trusty Oppo had been struggling since the moment I left Köln, even accessing my wonderful €9.00 travel ticket had taken an age. €9.00, valid for the month on all transport except IC/ICE. The QR code was taking me nowhere.

Up to the counter, this was probably a blessing. I was then able to discuss my requirements. Fish Korma (€12.90) was Mein Hosts’ suggestion. Alu Gosht (€13.50) became the choice, Rice included. A half litre of Sparkling Water (€1.90) completed the Order.

The mound of Rice on the plate was shaped as a heart. Ah. As is the Euro norm, more Rice than I could eat.

Alu Gosht

Topped with Syboes, the Masala was minimal, as I had asked. Herbs were mixed through the Masala. The peripheral Oil was conspicuous by its absence. I counted at least eight pieces of Meat, there was even more Potato. This was a lot of Curry.

The Spice didn’t appear to be significant at the start, but this grew in time. Mein Host had returned to his area of relaxation. From there our conversation continued. He asked of the Spice was OK, I assured him it was, but more importantly, his Curry had Seasoning. I was asked from where I came. Mein Host recognised the number of Pakistani restaurants in Glasgow.

The Meat ranged from Tender to chewy. The Meat would prove to be the weakest part of the meal. Dry, and not giving much Flavour, it was definitely playing second fiddle to the Potato. Presumably, the Potato had also been precooked, whatever it had been sat in had added that something extra special. The Potato was the highlight, full on Flavour here.

Tangy and Cloves – were the two things noted when I licked the last of the Masala from the spoon. Too often, one encounters what I have come to describe as the Euro-Curry Taste, probably from a ubiquitous paste used across the continent. Today’s Curry was certainly not of this ilk. This was a Curry with its own pedigree. Moderately Spiced, Seasoning and a distinct Flavour, this is what the Hector seeks.

The Bill

€15.40 (£13.32) Paid by card.

The Aftermath

I gave the Calling Card and congratulated Mein Host on his Curry. He assured me that what he serves is how he would cook it at home.

The U77 terminus is at Holthausen, fifteen minutes later I joined the chaps at Füchsen, almost a door to door service. This makes a return to Pak Royal Tandoori Art all the more likely.

Menu extracts

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Köln – Royal Punjab – Same Again Please!

Posted on June 8, 2022 by Hector

Wow! – moments are relatively rare. Back in February, as witnessed by Marg, Hector had one such experience at Royal Punjab (Venloer Str. 4, 50672 Köln, Deutschland). Today it was time to invoke the Curry-Heute Test, could they replicate this?

I arrived at Royal Punjab at 13.45 after watching Boris bluster his way through PMQs, also, the aftermath of the presumably terrorist attack this morning in Berlin. Any lunchtime customers had gone, the place was empty, bar the mature chap who had served me on my first visits to Royal Punjab back in 2017. I was permitted my choice of table.

The Order was soon placed: Lamm Accharri (€15.90) with inclusive Basmati and a 0.4l glass of Sparkling Water (€3.50).

Above medium – was agreed as the Spice Level. The wait was appropriate.

The Euro-portion of Rice was more than I could eat, however, today the level of wastage was not excessive.

Lamm Accharri

The appearance was identical to my first encounter with this Curry. Specks of, presumably, Yoghurt were mixed through the Masala which had a decent level of viscosity. I counted ten pieces of Meat as I arranged the Curry on the Rice. Some of these pieces were large and would therefore be halved, plenty of Meat.

The Spice hit the palate then the blast of Pickle. As a Lamb Achari, this was right up there. I waited for the next event, the smoky blast of the South Indian Curry, it wasn’t happening. No – Wow! – today. Eventually I bit into strip of well cooked-in Chilli, the hoped for Flavour then emerged, slightly. I declare the Curry-Heute Test as being – failed.

I settled down to enjoy my Curry. Mein Host came over to check primarily that the Spice Level was not excessive. For Hector, not a problem, for most Germans it could have been, I have been told oft.

The Seasoning was there, the Spice was there, the Pickle most certainly. Had I not had the February version I would be singing the praises of this very fine Achari, so I cannot be hyper-critical. I did wonder why it was not the same, a different Chef is the obvious answer.

I have established that Royal Punjab is a chain of three restaurants in Nordrhein-Westfalen, with further outlets in Leverkusen and Langenfeld. One day I shall establish which one came first. Perhaps the Chefs move around? Next time I meet the younger chap who served us in February, I may get to the core of the saga. His English is up to it, Mein Host today was making me speak Deutsch. After all the time spent in Berlin, it is strange having to speak Deutsch in Deutschland once more.

The Bill

€19.40 (£16.61) Again, a cash payment, they only take German bank cards here.

The Aftermath

I showed Mein Host the photo of his colleague, who served us in February, as an ice breaker. This sparked a conversation that went on for a good ten minutes. Conversation? He spoke, I nodded and made appropriate interjections. On seeing the photo of the Lamm Accharri last time, he asked if this was my favourite Curry. Karahi Gosht was the inevitable answer – aber echtes Punjabi Karahi. I mentioned Namkeen Karahi, hoping that this would stimulate an offer to cook. He recognised the Afghan origin of this very fine Dish.

The ongoing price increases of – everything – have affected their business. I could follow the list of ingredients being recited, plus I can do numbers in Deutsch, therefore I did understand his quite specific references. Cashew Nuts have doubled in price. I must go and see Jazzy at Punjabi (Glasgow) who first raised this problem a year or so back. He surely will have more to add on this topic.

I promised to return, the Keema has to be sampled, but there’s Kofta too.

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Köln – Indian Curry Basmati House – It has been a while

Posted on June 7, 2022 by Hector

Hector is back in Köln for a few days, this time with The Chaps. Before settling down next door in the Altes Brauhaus to watch a game of footay, where the home team were robbed, Steve was happy to accompany Hector on the return to Indian Curry Basmati House (Severinstrasse 53, 50678, Köln).

Köln Sud, we like playing here.

It was 18.15 when we entered the near empty restaurant. The open kitchen lies to the left, here one can order Takeaway also. Mein Hostess acknowledged us as we passed by even though she was busy on the phone.

The extensive menu was brought, today it was time for Beef – Rind Aloo Bhuna – (€10.50) with the Paprika withheld was Hector’s choice. We agreed upon – above middle Spice. Lamm Madras Curry (€9.50) for Steve, for a change. When Steve ordered a Garlik Naan (€3.00) I added a Chilli Naan (€3.00). Sparkling Water (€2.50) and a Fanta (€2.50) completed the Order.

A few more diners arrived as we waited. In a restaurant that seats eighty in one open room, the place was decidedly quiet. Restaurant? Perhaps Indian Curry Basmati House is closer in style to a Curry Cafe.

The Bread had been scored into four pieces but retained its integrity, pleasing. A sensible size for one person, Steve would manage the lot, Hector all but a crumb. The Chilli Naan also had Coriander, even more pleasing. A bit on the the thin side, it had risen sufficiently, particularly around the edges, here it was suitably – puffy. The Garlic had not been overdone on the Garlik Naan.

Rind Aloo Bhuna

This was quite a plateful. First thing to notice: this was Curry with Rice, the latter being relatively minimal for Europe. Ordering the Naan was certainly justified. I counted the Meat into double figures. Initially I spotted four pieces of Potato, more were encountered. There was still enough Beef.

In the past, when I have been here on a more regular basis, I have asked for tweaks, principally added Methi on top. No such indulgence today. The missing Paprika was more than compensated for by the presence of largely cut Onions. The Masala was decidedly – red – and more than one would expect in a – Bhuna.

The Seasoning registered immediately which was surprising after my assault at Bombaywalla (Glasgow) last Saturday. The Spice kicked in also, no bland Curry here. Indeed, it was Chilli which was the dominant Flavour here. This place always had its own distinctive – root taste – that was missing this evening. Beef always chews drier than Lamb, the Meat was suitably – Tender. Apart from the – beefiness – the Meat was adding little more. The Potato had not been given time to absorb Flavour from the Masala.

With the Chillies from the Bread, there was a definite – kick – to this Curry. It was a more a matter of filling a hole than being one to rave about. It is also likely that Hector has found better venues in Köln and so the level of expectation has been raised.

Lamm Madras Curry

Evidently, the food was served – hot.

The discrepancy in the quantity of solids was plain to see. The red Masala was possibly a bit thinner than the Bhuna. With a comparable Curry to Rice ratio, again, this needed the Naan accompaniment.

It was quite enjoyable – began Steve – not quite Madras. I think the sauce was intense, needed more Garlic. The odd bit of Cardamom, mostly Tomato and Chilli. It hit the spot, good for the price.

One goes up to the counter to pay, and so we did, separately.

The Bill

€16.00 (£13.61) for Hector, Steve was charged €15.50

The Aftermath

There was a quick chat with Mein Hostess. I pointed out that it is nearly five years since my last visit. She of course mentioned – Covid.

It was chucking it down as we walked the three metres to Altes Brauhaus. Reissdorf Kölsch awaited. That was never a penalty.

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Glasgow – Bombaywalla – Indian Street Kitchen – Hector Meets his Match

Posted on June 4, 2022 by Hector

Apart from the masses who were at the King’s Theatre today to see Mama Mia, the stage-show of the movie, actually a remake of – Buona Sera, Mrs. Campbell – starring Gina Lollobrigida and Phil Silvers, Glasgow was empty on this fine, sunny day. The Meteorological summer has begun, we just need the weather to maintain this.

Bombaywalla – Indian Street Kitchen (186 West Regent St, Glasgow, G2 4RU) finds itself in the perfect locus for Hector on a Saturday afternoon, when time does not permit a trip to the Southside for Curry. Blythswood Square looked stunning in the bright sunshine and blue sky, a pity the peripheral trees made photography difficult.

It was a somewhat tardy 15.30 when Hector walked down the stairs into Bombaywalla. Both Sijin, Mein Host, and Chef were in the dining area. Chef was finishing his lunch. Self restraint was shown, the temptation to rush over and photograph other people’s food is always in the back of one’s mind.

Good to see you again – I have identified as Sijin’s customary greeting. I took a table, one to the right of my previous two visits. Having enjoyed the Lamb Kolhapuri (£11.95) on Visit #1, it was time to try the other Lamb Curry – Keema Matar – (£11.50), however, ever alert, I spotted a third Lamb Curry on the menu: Lamb Sukka (£11.95).

Yes, the menu has been expanded since Visit #2 when I had the Seabass Malabar (£11.95). The description of the – Sukka – wasn’t giving much away. I asked about the Masala, this would determine Rice or Bread. The Masala was duly described as – dark and thick – … this sounded like a Hector Curry! The antithesis of that had yesterday at Darbar Grill. A Naan (£2.75) would accompany.

Both the Seabass Malabar and the Lamb Kolhapuri are firmly in the – Soupy – classification of Curry. When the Flavours are there, I can accept the style. In terms of Flavour, the Curry experienced at Bombaywalla has been of the South Indian variety. This I find is a good break from my customary Punjabi Karahi.

Sijin and I chatted whilst Chef got busy. It sounds as if business is building at Bombaywalla, the surrounding hotels are a reliable source of custom. As for the office trade, lunchtimes are when they are expected, hopefully this will grow markedly in the months to come.

I studied the menu further, one day I shall have to come and not have Curry. Fish Cutlets (£6.95) shall certainly form the base of any such meal.

Sijin brought the food. The quartered Naan was immediately forgiven. Just look at those blisters. This Naan was remarkably light, fluffy, and had more risen pockets than I have ever seen. Inevitably there would be the temptation to overdose on Bread, as if. Sijin told me that many would have Paratha with a Sukka. The Malabar Porotta (£2.95) will have to be tried, if it’s the too rare White Paratha, Hector will be in raptures.

Lamb Sukka

As promised, this was the Dry, Thick Curry Hector seeks. I chose to eat from the bowl so there no Meat count. As I would come to realise, there was loads.

Whilst the Lamb Kolhapuri made a definite nod towards the South Indian Chettinad, this Lamb Sukka was right there. The – smokiness – hit the palate, was this it, the ultimate Dry, Smoky Lamb Curry? Can they do this with Fish?

The Spices were there, including presumably, a swathe of the dry Red Chillies to create the South Indian/Chettinad experience. I could see whole Green Chillies plus the listed Curry Leaves. I am not a fan of describing Spice Levels using the Madras/Vindaloo standard. This was Vindaloo+. Do not order this unless you can cope.

As for the Seasoning, here we go. If there was a Hector Scale of Seasoning ranging from – non-existent – through – fine – to – brave, then this was – Brave+. If one cannot handle – Well-seasoned Curry – do not order this.

The Meat was beautiful, Soft only begins to describe its Tenderness. Relatively large pieces of Onion were cooked in with the Masala. I resorted to my usual alternating Bread with Masala, straight Meat. As feared, I ate way more Bread than my capacity would tolerate. Everything here was simply magnificent. Hector was being tested: Spice, Smokiness, Seasoning, Quantity, I decided to eat one of the whole Green Chillies, the Curry Leaves were set aside. Can one digest these?

There followed a lot of nose blowing, this was hitting the spot, an absolute killer of a Curry. My pleasure was conveyed to Sijin.

Despite the Lamb being seemingly endless, only a Soupçon of the Masala had to be left along with the discarded Curry Leaves and a whole Black Cardamom, encountered the way one hopes not to. I hope this Lamb Sukka does not disappear from the menu. I’ll be back for more.

A couple, known to Sijin, arrived towards the end of my visit. Between them they ordered the Fish Cutlets and the Lamb Sukka. A pity I couldn’t hang about to observe.

The Bill

£14.70 We’re in – the heart of the City.

The Aftermath

Afterwards, I was able to check online what a Sukka is. It sounds remarkably similar to the equally dry – Chukka – once enjoyed at Banana Leaf, now Madhras Dosa. Surely it’s about time Madhras Dosa opened before 17.00, who eats that late?

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Glasgow – Darbar Grill + Danny Singh’s no more

Posted on June 3, 2022 by Hector

Earlier this year I noted on a social medium that Danny Singh of New Gandhi Indian Restaurant was looking to sell up. It is with sadness I report that his restaurant closed on May 22.

The opening night back in 2014 will always be remembered, a pity I missed the last. Yet another Curry House joins the – Gone, but not forgotten.

Hector was summoned to the Southside for 14.00. People are off work today, and so are out to play. Trying to secure a Curry before 14.00 on a Friday in my happy hunting ground is no easy matter. Darbar Grill (140 Allison Street, Glasgow G42 8RP) was open. As expected, Ahmed, Mein Host was not present, the boys were looking after the shop. Does Moiz now have a beard?

I was talked through the Dishes on display, the two on the right were not for Hector.

Lamb and Potato plus Boiled Rice was chosen. I took my seat in the empty restaurant, one chap did arrive later to eat in.

A jug of water, with a glass, was presented. The glass I specifically mention, no more single use plastic in Scotland. The water too is worth a mention, why do I keep tasting chemicals in Glasgow water?

The plate of Basmati was almost luminescent. Could I eat this quantity? Probably not.

Aloo Gosht

Lamb on-the-bone, in a Shorva, I could smell the Cloves as soon as the bowl was placed on the table. This was Desi Curry. When Darbar Grill rebranded from Desi Cafe, the portions were decidedly small. Today, I was glad to receive a decent portion. The two large pieces of Potato would soon become eight. I had quite a plateful to manage.

As anticipated, there was a huge blast of Cloves, then hot Spices. The Seasoning was there, spooning on more Shorva invigorated the Rice. The Meat was so soft one could have simply sucked it instead of chew. Sadly, the Flavours from the Herb-rich Shorva had been absorbed by the Potato more than the Meat. Time to spoon more Shorva. Of course, the Flavours from the bones had infused the Shorva.

It’s easy to dismiss such a Curry as being – Soupy, however, when a Shorva is this tasty, one has to acknowledge and appreciate the genre. This was remote from Hector’s preferred Thick Masala. This was Desi Curry, and why I was here.

The Bill

£11.00 One day there will be a printed menu, possibly even with the official name of the venue.

The Aftermath

Card payment complete, it was a short walk to rendezvous with the chaps.

I hope Moiz enjoys reading this.

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Clydebank – Curry Mix – Freddies no more

Posted on June 2, 2022 by Hector

At some point in the recent past, Freddies Food Club withdrew from their Clydebank outpost and retreated to Knightswood. In its place, Curry Mix (495 Kilbowie Road, Clydebank G81 2AX) was established. Still serving the complete array of anything one would wish to take out, at least the emphasis became such that Hector would have to investigate. With cooking duties suspended pro tem, today was the day.

The online menu was studied, Punjabi Masala Dishes almost enticed, however, when it was made clear that the dreaded – Peppers – could be withheld in the Karahi Dishes, it had to be Methi Gosht Karahi (£7.00). Bread should normally accompany Karahi, but taking no chances regarding the efficacy of the Masala, Special Fried Rice (£4.00) was chosen.

The Bill

£10.50 There is a 10% discount for ordering online. Then there are surcharges which eroded this.

The Order was placed around 17.30, I was given 18.00 as the collection time.

Such is the proximity of Hector’s House to Curry Mix, I could have walked, however, why let the food cool on the return? Arriving bang on 18.00 I introduced myself. The chap who evidently dealt with Curry looked a bit mystified when I mentioned Methi Gosht. He checked the only Order which was waiting, all was well.

Very efficient, bar the new double yellow lines across the street which many ignore. For the record, Hector was in the car park, this avoids having to go around the Kilbowie roundabout.

The standard Takeaway containers meant there was as much Rice as Curry.

I took what I would manage from the Rice container. Peas and Onions made it – Special. I had hoped for fresh Mushrooms too.

Methi Gosht Karahi

The first sight of the Masala was pleasing. This was most certainly not – Soup.

The Masala was wonderfully – Thick – and given the quantity of Meat, not excessive. I counted the Lamb into double figures as I arranged the Curry on top of the Rice. A decent portion, but my other, and equally close Takeaway – New Kismet Tandoori – across the city boundary, gives more.

A large piece of cooked Tomato was unearthed plus pieces of Syboes. The Masala was Herb strewn: light green, presumably Coriander, dark green, hopefully Methi. This was how I hope to see a Methi Gosht presented: a Masala with Herbs, not just Spiced Herbs. I was already questioning how much Methi had actually been added.

As ever, I tasted the Rice first. A decent Pilau, the flavour of the Peas was pronounced, the Onions were a bit crunchy, a Diversity of Textures, QED.

The Masala gave off a good kick. Some online ordering systems permit a choice of Spice Levels, an extra charge may well then follow. The Spice here was well pitched.

Initially, the Seasoning felt a bit on the low side, however, as I ate this appeared to grow. The Dry-Herb Flavour from the Methi could have been more pronounced, I suppose I could have gone to the cupboard and added some more on top. Why did I not think of that at the time? Still, a first Curry from Curry Mix, better to evaluate what actually was presented.

The Lamb was delightfully soft, dry at times. The jury is still out as to how much Spice/Flavour this Meat was giving back, however, I might err on the positive.

Around the halfway point I had reached two conclusions: this Karahi did not have the ubiquitous Clydebank Curry Taste, I would certainly order this again.

The Peas were doing a remarkable job, the addition of an Interesting Vegetable can transform a Curry. I was certainly enjoying this Karahi, Rice still felt like the better accompaniment. It takes a Desi Masala to command Bread, this was decidedly Mainstream, but within these limitations, a fine Curry.

Next time: Lamb Punjabi Masala (£7.00).

Menu extracts

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – There’s no place like…

Posted on May 29, 2022 by Hector

The first Curry after the trip to Türkiye was at Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ), no surprises there. The Saturday afternoon ritual was restored, quality Curry guaranteed.

Arriving at 14.45, Ayaz was busy in the cooking spot and remained so throughout my stay. There must have been a big order, or a party coming later. I took my favourite seat, Shery brought a jug of water and this time a plastic cup. After two weeks of mineral water, the tap water in Nelson Street tasted strange, but doesn’t it always?

The usual Karahi Lamb (£9.00) would be accompanied by a Chilli and Coriander Naan. The price of the latter is evidently variable.

I had the place to myself bar one Takeaway customer – Donner and Chips. Each to their own, but had he really come all this way for such an uninspiring choice?

Shery brought the food, the Naan looked out of sorts. Quartered, and served upside down, this was the beginning of the disappointment. Once righted, things did not improve that much. OK, the sliced Chillies and Coriander were well embedded, however, the Naan had hardly risen. Little puffiness here, Sunday’s Naan at Taj Mahal (Içmeler) was far more satisfying. Today’s Naan also maintained a watery residue until the very end. I don’t know what happened, this was not up to standard.

Karahi Lamb

Lamb on-the-bone, how this has been missed, Ginger Strips too! After my revealing experience at Karachi Darbar (Istanbul), today, I tipped the contents of the karahi on to my plate. This I had never done before at Karahi Palace. Normally, I dip my Bread into the Oily Masala-Mash and enjoy the heavenly pleasures which ensue. In doing so, I have never managed to appreciate the full magnificence of the Masala. When ordering a kilo on a flat Tawa at other venues, seeing the quality of the Masala is part of the pleasure. Today, mission accomplished. Behold the proof, if required, that the Masala at Karahi Palace does match that served at my other special places.

Super-Hot food, one never takes for granted. By decanting, the Curry would cool quicker, but I could get tore in sooner than normal. And tear in I did.

There was an immediate – Wow! It was good to be home. Spice, Seasoning and oh so much flavour. Methi at last. For once, I could happily have just had Bread and Masala. Is it time to try a Vegetable Karahi once again?

I counted the Meat, double figures were reached. Not all the Lamb was on-the-bone. My first intake was boneless, and comparatively bland after what had preceded it. Once the bony bits were tackled, all was well. The difference between on-the-bone and boneless once again so clear. The Tenderness was remarkable. I’ve had some excellent Meat in the last couple of weeks, this stood out.

With three quarters of the Naan eaten, it was time to consider what was left. A bit more Bread to mop up, otherwise it was Meat and Masala. I had considered ordering a Side given I knew my strategy today was to eat from the plate. Just as well I didn’t, as always the portion here was satisfying. Who needs the half kilo?

The Bill

£13.50 A bit random, or the prices have increased.

The Aftermath

There was little interaction today, Ayaz was still working flat out as I finished. Shery dealt with the card payment.

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Içmeler – Taj Mahal – The Return

Posted on May 22, 2022 by Hector

Our last day in what has been a truly relaxing week, not all spent by our magnificent pool at Mitos Apartments. Apart from the European Cup Final (sic), that’s the football season over. Glasgow Rangers at least did feature in the other, who would have thought? And they won a wee trophy yesterday, so life could be worse. Why did Aston Villa collapse losing three goals so quickly? I bet Stevie-who? was not a happy chap.

Happy Chap? Hector, as promised, returned to Taj Mahal (Içmeler, Kenan Evren Biv. No:27, 48720 Marmaris/Mugla, Türkiye) with a mission: Karahi without Capsicum – as Mein Host promised it could be served. Arriving at 20.30, we were instantly recognised as returning customers, and so graduated to a table inside, not balcony fodder this evening.

Two of the standard 0.2l bottles of Soda (17.50TL) were ordered. Elsewhere (7-8TL), these bottles offer good value, Taj Mahal have to boost their profits somehow.

There are two main waiters at Taj Mahal, both became involved in the – without Peppers – request. A photo on a well known and reliable website explained fully what a Bell Pepper is. I was told that they generally are not used in Turkey, too expensive. The Head Waiter brought out a plate of Chillies, Banana Chillies may be an Americanism, – Village Peppers – is used locally. These have been present in almost every meal we have had on this trip. They don’t give the unwelcome after-burps, nor do they add heat. I mentioned our small Green Chillies and was assured the British can’t handle them. Really?

Why should the limits of the Chicken Tikka Masala brigade prevail?

Hector had another card to play this evening. Using the translator on the trusty Oppo, I showed the waiter – çemen yaparagi.

Does your Chef have this Herb? You cannot make a Bradford-style Curry without it.

Not this evening.

No Methi, QED.

Karahi Lamb (197.50TL) – Asian style, Desi/Apna, was duly ordered. Marg would have her favourite Keema (Beef) Masala (182.50TL). A Garlic Naan (24.50TL) a Rothi (22.50TL) plus a Vegetable Pakora (67.50TL) would complete the Order.

Do you want your Starter at the same time?

Maybe they don’t understand what a Starter is. No.

Once again, Poppadoms were declined, so I still don’t know their status.

Vegetable Pakora

Three huge masses of stringy Vegetables in batter took us back to Karachi Darbar (Istanbul) which feels a long time ago. The Pakora was way too hot for Hector’s fingers, for once a fork would would have to be employed here. The same three Dips as before accompanied: Mango, Onion Chutney and Raita. Temperature, Spice and Seasoning, they might have looked alien, however, this weird Pakora tasted as good as anything serving in a West of Scotland Curry House. Fresher even.

Onion and Potato were joined by the ubiquitous Big Chillies, a bizarre presentation, it works.

Having had two thirds of the Starter, the edge was taken off the appetite, risky.

The Mains arrived after a suitable period of recuperation.

I had gone against my norm by ordering the Garlic Naan. I had spotted the other night that it would not arrive dripping in Garlic, a Buttery Sheen was adequate. Less pale, than Thursday, and perhaps even puffier, this was again a worthy Naan and significantly better than those served in the Istanbul Curry Houses.

The Rothi, served whole, was of the Wholemeal variety. Bread for the Brits.

With all assembled, the waiter brought two more Complimentary Dishes: Chilli Panir (69.50TL) and Raita. No mention had been made of the review of Visit #1, so perhaps this is how all returning customers are treated? We now had more food than a Hector and Marg could manage.

Karahi Lamb

The concept of – foliage – has not reached these parts. Let’s acknowledge that there was some Coriander on top. The Oil was separating from the Masala, Hector would take care of that. As with Marg’s Balti on the previous visit, the Karahi looked, minimal, ordinary on arrival. After decanting, it looked closer to what I was expecting. However, the Chillies had been liberally added, less offensive than Bell Peppers, but here we had the other reason why the latter are eschewed – Ballast. Too many Chillies, far from being an – Interesting Vegetable. I should have stuck to my guns.

Chilli Panir

Yes, more Chillies with somewhat large cubes of Cheese. Too – Red – not natural. Highlight – The Curry-Heute Campaign – once again.

Raita

A substantial quantity, most would be wasted. This did not really fit in with the other contents of my plate. Marg marked it as having finely chopped Vegetables, and being – crunchy and fresh.

Time to eat.

The first dip of Naan into the Masala set the alarm bells ringing – Euro Curry!

As established on Visit #1, despite their claim at Taj Mahal, the Curry here does not taste like a Bradford Curry. The Masala has a definite quality which marks it way above the Mainstream, but without – çemen yaparagi – that is never going to be attained. Surely even boxes of Dried Methi Leaves are available?

Strangely, that first blast of Flavour dissipated, never to return. I put this down to the Paneer. The Cheese added a different dimension to the contents of my plate. Diversity – I constantly seek, Meat and Masala is rarely enough. The Paneer upped the Seasoning, so this critical parameter was addressed. There was a definite Sweetness from the Chilli Panir, and more Chillies than a Hector was going to eat. Between us, we ate the Cheese Cubes, much of the Chillies and Red Masala were set aside.

What looks like Feta has been served oft on our trip to Türkiye. The texture is different from that served in Hellas/Greece, soft, not granular. The Paneer at Taj Mahal was the opposite. One expects a more rubbery texture, this was decidedly – granular – on eating, a lot of chewing required, for Cheese. Still, thanks to Chef for providing this, the Karahi might not have impressed so much without this contrast.

The Meat in the Karahi Lamb was divine. Far from the Mainstream, the Lamb was no stranger to the Masala. The Texture, the Flavours, Hector was back where he wanted to be. The Masala may have had a hint of Yoghurt, this was a different Curry from Thursday’s Lahori Tawa. There was a definite sense of – British Curry – here. In the five minutes since I had started, the experience was transformed. In 1942, the Japanese lost three aircraft carriers in five minutes (guess what I’ve been reading by the pool?), and so here, the original alarm had given way to comfort eating.

The Karahi Lamb had Spice, Seasoning, the Tenderest of Meat and an authentic Masala. The Lahori Tawa Lamb was actually even better.

Keema (Beef) Masala

Topped with Coriander, this looked to be quite a plateful, a mass of Curry.

The suffix – Masala – made me wonder as to what would arrive. Keema should be served moist, not with a full Masala. I would describe this Keema as – wet and red, but not excessively so. There were no obvious Chillies here!

It was very finely ground mince with a mixture of red and green Chillies. (no escape) A good flavour and the use of the Wholemeal Roti enhanced the enjoyment, though the Roti was a bit heavy. A lot of meat, and I enjoyed stealing the Garlic Naan. The Mince was spicy, I cooled my mouth with the Raita.

Marg surprised herself by finishing the Keema, Hector left a mass of Chillies. I do go on and on about this, but there’s no need for this level of – Ballast.

Marg fancied a Coffee. The board listing the range was just within the limits of my visual acuity. Cappuccino for Marg, and for the first time in Curry-Heute, one of Hector’s all-time favourite drinks makes an appearance.

Turkish Coffee, or Cafe Botz, as it was called when I acquired a taste for this strong, muddy drink back in 1980 at Kibbutz Ashdot Ya’akov (Me’uhad) is an occasional treat. A lack of sleep usually follows.

No Sugar! – always raises an eyebrow.

Marg assures me her Cappuccino also impressed.

If the price of the Coffees were on the menu, I didn’t record it.

The Bill

524.50TL (£26.41, I get a better rate with Revolut) The Coffee was on-the-house also.

Didn’t we do well?

The Aftermath

Our appreciation was expressed. We were thanked for returning, and once again escorted downstairs. The Scotia Bar is part of the same complex. Who would go there?

After two visits and four different Dishes, I can report with confidence that the Curry served at Taj Mahal is way better then one could expect to find at a seaside resort, Turkish or otherwise. The British influence in Içmeler is at the root of this, but it did take a Chef from Bradford to realise the potential.

Bradford Curry? No, not without – Methi/Fenugreek.

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Içmeler – Taj Mahal – Bradford Curry in Türkiye?

Posted on May 19, 2022 by Hector

Given the size of Içmeler, we couldn’t help but pass Taj Mahal (Içmeler, Kenan Evren Biv. No:27, 48720 Marmaris/Mugla, Türkiye) on our first night. The chap out front was insistent that the big, bold claim on their menu was accurate. If I wasn’t convinced, I wouldn’t have to pay. He had just thrown down the goblet (sic). We promised to return, Masala would be checked out first.

There was the thought about visiting the Taj Mahal mother shop in Marmaris yesterday before a certain football match, alas, we were caught up in the atmosphere. For the record, my first Donner Kebap of the trip was last night.

We arrived at Taj Mahal after 18.00 and were recognised at once. In Içmeler the staff at every shop, bar, restaurant, gets to know the visitors quickly, such is the size of this tranquil annexe to Marmaris. We were led upstairs and given a table on the balcony, as were the next diners to arrive. Window dressing.

I started my spiel but then realised the Drinks waiter was not clued in. Being on holiday: a Tuborg (50TL) for Hector and a Soda (17.50TL) for Marg was permitted.

The actual waiter then got all barrels. I was making it clear that I know Bradford Curry, therefore their claims would be scrutinised. Three Dishes come under the Bradford banner: Lahori Tawa, Karahi and Kashmiri Balti, each 197.50TL in Lamb. The Karahi included the dreaded Capsicum in its description, best to avoid this. So, Lahori Tawa for Hector, and Kashmiri Balti for Marg. I made the point of asking for mine in the Asian Style, Desi, Apna, the lot. Marg held back.

To accompany, Pilav Rice (52.50TL) and a Fresh Nan Bread (24.50TL). Poppadoms were declined, however, we did order Sheek Kebab (80.00TL) to share as a Starter. How – Seekh – has become – Sheek – who knows, I’ll let others worry about the spelling of – Kebap.

The Seekh Kebap was accompanied by three Dips. Finally, the real ones, no more Ketchup. Raita, Mango Chutney and Onion Chutney, the classics.

Sheek Kebab

I wonder if there is an internationally agreed length for a Seekh Kebap? These were just like home. Chicken of course, the Seasoning hit the palate, then the Spice kicked in. This was the most Seasoned Meat I had been served in any Turkish Curry House to date. However, the Curry-Heute adage came into play: if the Starters are this good, the Mains tend not to be. The Seekh and Salad were devoured, excellent.

The place was filling up, a Thursday night. The tables inside could well have been reserved. All the customers I could hear were British. Every Masala that I spotted was brown, only the Tandoori Dishes had the unnatural – red. Hopes were certainly raised.

The food was assembled on the table. The Naan was hung, wonderful, it also saves space. A bit pale perhaps, that would be the only criticism. The blisters were in the process of forming when it had been removed from the flame. Not too doughy for Marg, a sufficient girth for Hector. A few Seeds were embedded. The best Bread had to date in a Turkish Curry House.

The Rice portion was decidedly small. Marg wouldn’t be having much, if my Tawa was up to scratch, it could be surplus to requirements anyway. There was a Clove or two in there, with some Tarka on top. Decent Rice.

Lahori Tawa – Lamb

Feast your eyes!

Imagine how the Hector felt when this was set on the table. The flat Tawa allowed the full glory of the Tomato-rich Masala to be appreciated. The Coriander Topping also had the mysterious Dry Herb look, was some of this Methi? Calm, Hector.

The Lamb was easily into double figures, the large pieces of cooked Tomato were therefore certainly more than – Ballast. Tiny pieces of Red and Green were strewn through the Masala. Capsicum possibly, however, the large Banana Peppers we have been eating in Turkey are the long, chunky ones, not Bell Peppers.

The photographic ritual took an unexpected turn, a chap came over and took ours … for use in another medium.

The all so important first dip of Naan into the Masala revealed a huge Spice hit, not in the sense of heat, but intensity of Flavour. Whilst the Istanbul Curry Houses impressed, this was full on, no prisoners being taken. The Seasoning was not noticeable per se, it must have been there, these Flavours could not have been achieved otherwise.

The Oil separated from the Masala, I stirred it back in, I was not going to miss anything here. The Meat was majestic, beautifully soft, and giving Flavour to the Curry, no parasitical late add-ons here.

The chap whom I took to be the Head Waiter was over to check:

We have taste – I assured him.

This was an authentic Punjabi-style Curry, that which Hector holds in the highest esteem. The Meat and Masala worked in harmony. The Tomatoes added Diversity. The Flavours were certainly distinctive, aggressive even, a treat in this far off land. However, Bradford? Not. For that one needs much more Methi/Fenugreek.

Kashmiri Balti – Lamb

Again, the same Coriander Topping, the Oil was already collecting around the edges of the karahi. The Balti was not as – red – as the flash photography suggests. The Masala oozed quality. One has come to recognise when a Masala is better than the Mainstream.

There appeared to be a smaller quantity of Curry compared to the Tawa, but these karahi are deceptive. Marg verified her Meat count into double figures as she decanted to accommodate some Rice.

A Soupçon of the Masala crossed the table. This had a much more mellow Flavour compared to the Tawa, it had to. I would happily have had this Curry.

Marg’s verdict:

A wonderful Curry, eaten at the right time of the day. Full of Flavour, with tender lamb, and a rich sauce mixed well with the Pilau Rice. I enjoyed the hanging Naan, and used it to scrape out the dish.

Needless to say, we ate the lot apart from the top of the substantial Naan. Another – tick – for the Naan.

The Bill

619.50TL (£31.06) Maybe a bit more than Bradford Curry prices.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was issued to the chap who dealt with the payment. We followed him downstairs to where Mein Host stood at his dais. Our enjoyment was expressed. He told of the owner, a Bradford Chef, who came over some twenty years ago.

Now to ask the big question:

Can you do me a Lamb Karahi without Peppers?

The answer was in the affirmative.

We’ll be back on Sunday.

(The day after another football match.)

2022 Menu

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Içmeler – Masala – Curry for Tourists

Posted on May 17, 2022 by Hector

Hector and Marg in a holiday resort? Not our usual style of trip, not unheard of, last year we went to Girvan. I am not a beach person, though accommodation with a pool, where one manages to actually swim a few strokes, is a welcome change.

Içmeler in May, an unattainable concept prior to this year. The resort is just reawakening up after two years of hell, not just Covid, but a major forest fire at the peak of last summer which disrupted the town’s infrastructure.

The weans are still at school, everywhere, only people of a certain age are here. Içmeler is set up for the British. English, even Scottish breakfasts, are on offer in many establishments. A well known brand of a Tamarind based brown sauce correspondingly features. Marg told me quite emphatically that I was not going out to join the breakfast brigade this morning, I suggested Curry instead.

There are two Curry Houses which keep popping up when researching Içmeler, Masala (Içmeler, Kenan Evren Blv., 48720 Marmaris/Mugla, Türkiye) appears to be the better rated. That Masala is open at noon every day, suited the Hector dining pattern. We arrived at 13.40, unsurprisingly, we would be the only customers.

The waiter brought the menu, the prices were significantly higher than those seen in the Istanbul Curry Houses visited last week, as in more than double. Tourist prices. Two types of Cuisine are available at Masala, Indian, and that other stuff from further east, as was borne out by the Complimentary Starter: Prawn Crackers and three Dips. Two of the Dips were suitably spiced, the third was cough medicine.

What to have? Karahi? After my two recent Istanbul Karahi experiences, time to return to the Mainstream. Bhuna Lamb (259.90TL) should provide a true and fair view of the Curry at Masala. Taking no chances re Soupiness, Rice would accompany. Vegetable Rice (44.90TL), diversity rules.

Marg took the Samosa (59.90TL) route once again, but only after she ascertained that the Salad shown in the photo in the menu was accurate. A Large Water (24.90TL) would complete the Order.

As ever, I asked that no Capsicum would appear in either my Curry or Vegetable Rice. The waiter was keen to establish a level of Spice. Above medium – was eventually noted, after a warning.

I watched sacks of Onions being brought in to the restaurant during our half hour wait for the Order to be prepared. If only I could justify buying these at home, the price per unit is a tiny fraction of what we pay for Onions in supermarkets.

The food arrived, both Marg and Hector’s together, as asked.

Samosa

The Salad was little more than leaves of Lettuce. What does one do with them?

The Samosae were Vegetable. Marg found both the colour of the interior and the corresponding Flavour intriguing. Turmeric – was her nominated Spice, how she knows what Turmeric on its own tastes like, well, maybe she does. The colouring did give this credence. Marg was unable to identify a particular Vegetable in the Mash.

Hard to tell which Veg, mushie. Best Samosa I’ve had in a while.

The Vegetable Rice was definitely a portion for one. On decanting to the plate, it just about looked enough. This is a far cry from Central Europe where Rice portions are ridiculously large. The British influence in Içmeler?

The Rice contained Mushrooms, presumably tinned, diced Carrots and the tiniest flecks of Broccoli.

Bhuna Lamb

Perched high on its stand, the Curry stood proudly, the Coriander topping pointing skywards. As I arranged the Meat on the Rice, so I counted to double figures, the pieces, however, were tending towards – small.

There was a sense of excessive – red – in the Masala. Round Seeds, too small to be Coriander, were mixed through the viscous, blended Masala. On further study, I noted the Masala as gelatinous, this was not the Texture one creates by blending Onions and Tomatoes alone. Was adding Cornstarch, Chef’s attempt at creating what he thought was a Bhuna Masala?

I began by sampling the Vegetable Rice, a pronounced Flavour came from this, a good start. Then the Meat and Masala, nothing. I ate on, waiting for the Flavour of the Bhuna to hit the palate, nothing.

The Spice did build to something I would describe as – below Medium. The Seasoning was non-existent, hence the total lack of Flavour. Unsurprisingly, the Meat and Masala were strangers on the plate, how long had they been in each other’s company?

These are moments of despair for Hector. I can only be true to myself and my readers, there was nothing happening here. Other Sources describe Masala as serving – authentic – Cuisine. What did they order? I felt my constructive criticism of the two Istanbul Curry Houses to be misplaced in comparison. Suddenly, the perceived lack of Seasoning at Nosh-E-Jaan was set aside, what lay before me today was not even on the Scale of Seasoning.

By the halfway point, I was convincing myself I could taste Tomato. The blend of Spice was making the palate aware that something – Curry-like – was being consumed. One forkful suddenly gave Flavour, Cardamom, yet I saw no evidence. Then I found a linear Seed, or was it a husk?

As I arranged the final pieces of Meat, Masala and Rice in the centre of the plate so I declared:

I’m getting something now.

Truly, what you see in the photo was the only part of this Bhuna Lamb to give Flavour. And to prove my love of Curry regardless, I ate every grain of Rice, every morsel of the Curry.

The Bill