Glasgow – The Village “Curry House” – Eid Mubarak – The Buffet

How I have missed the Ramadan Buffet at The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA). No other Buffet, ever encountered, puts on so many authentic Punjabi offerings, in addition to Curry that caters for the less adventurous.

With Kath and Graeme resident for one night, here was the opperchancity to show the best of Glasgow Curry. It is some eight years since they were introduced to the fayre at The Village. By coincidence, our last Ramadan Buffet was also with Aberdoom relatives.

We were advised to arrive in good time before the 21.00 Buffet launch. The window table nearest the action was allocated. Cola (£2.50), and a sensibly priced bottle of Sparkling Water (£2.95), would complement the jugs of tap water consumed. Does all of Glasgow’s tap water taste of bleach, or is it just Nelson Street properties?

From my vantage point I could see the array of Starters being assembled. The change of layout at The Village meant I initially could not see the tureens which would soon be filled with assorted Curry.

The manager came to the table to greet, it was he who would give the – go! He declared the place to be less busy tonight, the turnout was still the largest gathering in a restaurant I have witnessed since … well my last Village Ramadan Buffet.

A Soupçon of Dates were brought, amuse bouche. Graeme had never tasted Dates in this manner before. The tables remain separated by a considerable distance, hopefully normality will be restored soon. I’ll mark today by pointing out that we Scots no longer have to self isolate, unless one chooses to.

We were in the queue when the 21.03 official start was rung out. Salads and Sauces were the first in order, as if … well Marg couldn’t resist the Fruit Salad, she also asked what the first Meaty Starter was – Chicken Nuggets – tee-hee. There were a few kids present this evening, one already in his pyjamas.

Strangely, there was a tray of Sandwiches. Who would want a sandwich when all the rest was available? On the return to our table, I noted that the chaps sitting nearest had purloined many, what did they know that I didn’t?

Previously, I have managed to have plate in one hand, camera in the other, and record the array as I have worked my way along the delights. Tonight, I must have had plate and camera in the wrong hands.

After the rush, I was able to go back and capture, near enough, the key Starters, and also note that I missed out on a Chapli variant (above left). There was no sign of Kasif or his father, Mr. Baig, it was new faces who dished out the Starters. Later, one was able to go up and help oneself, I suppose they don’t want the premium items being hoarded at one one table, as if. Had there been Lamb Chops, Graeme might have been tempted to do so. The Fish Pakora (above right) was a departure from the norm.  I shall be asking more about this in future a la carte visits.

Hector & Marg’s plates of Starters, respectively.

Samosa, Spring Rolls, Vegetable Pakora, Fish Pakora, Chicken Chat, Chicken Tikka (two styles of Chicken anyway), Chapli Kebab, Aloo Pakora, Potato Pancake/Rosti.

The latter certainly intrigued. I shall have to search through my collection of Indian Cookbooks to find the recipe for these. Mashed Potato, and more. This is the joy of having access to such an array of Starters, one should always find something new and interesting. Chicken Chat/Tikka, I have always enjoyed these Indian versions of Nando’s. Why pour sauce over them to create – Curry?

Each member of our four remarked on the Spice, having sampled all, our palates were certainly being stimulated. The freshness of each item was apparent, the diversity of Flavours and Textures. Our guests were certainly impressed by the array, and soon realised that the cardinal sin is to overdose on the Starters. With this in mind, one year, I came here twice: a night for Starters, a night for Curry.

The table was cleared, time for a break, there’s no rush, let the food digest before assault #2. I joined the handful of diners who went up first for the Curry, no plate, camera in hand. This was the sensible way to record a Buffet.

The Bread and the Rice were first in line. Yeah, fill your plate with these, no way. Actually, there were two sizes of plate to choose from, standard, and seriously large. Marg, where can we buy these large plates? Both Chicken and Lamb Pilau followed the Naan.

I had advised Graeme that tonight was his opperchancity to try the Punjabidelicacies – that he is unlikely ever to encounter in Aberdoom. If he ever does, then he’d know what he was committing himself to. I was therefore delighted to see Haleem as the first Curry, not that I would be having any this year. I had already described it as – ingredients cooked for one hundred years. Paye (Trotters) came later. Delicacies.

Daal Makhani was next, this I love, and as Graeme makes a decent Daal, this would not go untouched.

Keema Karela was a standout Curry back in 2019’s Ramadan Buffet, it was good to see this rarity once again. As with the Daal Makhani, for the discerning diner who can manage the Bitterness of this fine Vegetable. And to have it in Mince? Genius! This would test Marg.

Daal Chana and Chicken Chana, not for the Hector, let’s move on.

Chicken Kirahi, as has been written oft in Curry-Heute, Hector would not be tempted here either. Had it been Lamb Karahi, then damage to this tureen would have been done.

Chicken Tikka Masala, well it had to be here, I suppose. This was the only Curry on offer with the dreaded green contaminant, that says it all. Was adding the Capsicum, the needless Ballast, Chef’s little joke?

Butter Chicken, another one for the ladies, well Marg certainly, who could not walk past this. It was surely time for the big hitters?

Lamb Bhuna, just look at that Masala. This was the classic Village Curry, masses of it, waiting to be devoured. Why did I have any Starters? You mean I have to share this with the rest of the diners?

Next up, Paye, for those who want to get down and dirty. After the thicker Masala of the Bhuna, who would choose this Shorva? But many do, and I appreciate its popularity, it’s not for me, more for those who wanted it. How considerate is Hector?

Nihari, close to what I had at Swadish yesterday, looks different when not served as a portion. Gone was the impact of the Lamb Shank standing proud in the Shorva. This looked a somewhat uninviting mess, but would no doubt be appreciated by those in the know.

Finally, Lamb on-the-bone, that this was last in line was probably a calculated decision. What could possibly follow The Village‘s Lamb Curry on-the-bone?

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So, up we went. There are no prizes for guessing what the ladies selected. Is Curry-Heute becoming sexist? Was it ever not? As predicted, Marg did not pass by the Keema Karela or Butter Chicken, Kath had the Chicken Tikka Masala. I pointed out the – must tries – to Graeme. He was game, and took Soupçons of the Haleem and Paye in addition to the other Men’s Curry. OK, I’ll stop this, until next time.

Here we go, again

Kath and I must have both started on the Daal Makhani at the same moment. It was powerful, full on Spice, we both sneezed. Marg declared it to be too much for her, that meant that everything which followed should not be. Alas, the Keema Karela was not far behind on the Spice Scale. This Keema was certainly demanding, those who cannot handle the – bitter gourd – should be warned. In the early days of Curry-Heute, Hector could not get enough Karela, or Karelae as many refer to it. You do not get this in a Mainstream Buffet.

                      Lamb Bhuna                                        Lamb on-the-bone

Next up it was Lamb Bhuna (boneless) v’s Lamb on-the-bone. If ever the something extra which bone on Curry presents, it was made clear this evening. There was a gasp from the Hector when the – on-the-bone – was tasted, a huge – Wow! The Shorva had run across my plate, bring on the Pilau. That it was in a Shorva was my only query, however, I accept that there are times when it has to be. The thicker, blended Masala in the Bhuna, as observed above, was magnificent. The Lamb was Tender to chewy-Tender, had I been served this, no doubt I would have been content. As I finished my plate, I knew that the Bhuna was filling the stomach when more Lamb on-the-bone could have been.

My fellow diners were already straining to see if the Desserts were in situ. Hector’s adage – if I have room for Dessert, then I have room for more Curry – came into vogue. Off they went, I discarded my large plate, a fresh, small plate would be sufficient. Alas, I was not the only person to have realised that the Lamb on-the-bone was the standout Curry this evening. The tureen contained bones and Shorva, the Meat had been skilfully sieved.

At this point, I had a choice: go for Dessert, or ask for more Lamb Curry. The last time I asked for more Curry, instead of refilling the tureen, a karahi full of my chosen Curry was brought to the table, way more than I could comfortably manage. Tonight, it was the honourable course, and given yesterday’s mass of Meat at Swadish, it was time to call it a day.

Except, I found myself, camera in hand, at the Desserts. Gulab Jamun, Kath was nearly tempted, Gajar Halwa and Sweet Rice were the premium Desserts. Cheese Cake, two styles, proved irresistible to Hector. Graeme loves Jelly. Not content with all that sat before her, Marg ordered four scoops of Ice Cream (£3.95), to share, allegedly.

Village Lamb on-the-bone, Mmmm.

The Bill

£81.20 … £17.95 per head for the Buffet. Kath could not believe the base price, but then Aberdoom is needlessly expensive. We had our money’s worth.

The Aftermath

The Village was almost empty when we departed. Afterwards, I secured a few words from Marg:

I found the Daal (Makhani) too spicy, the Butter Chicken helped to calm my mouth and went well with the Naan. I had the Bhuna Lamb, very tender and rich in flavour. (QED) I loved the variety of Starters, with Salad and Fruit Salad, a healthy addition.

The Village Ramadan Buffet, evidently, an evening of healthy eating.

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Glasgow – Swadish – Modern Indian Cuisine

Hector dining in the Merchant City? It must either be by invitation, or a special occasion. Pukka Dining is not the Hector norm, however, Marg was happy to indulge the Curry Hound on a significant birthday.

Swadish (33 Ingram Street, Glasgow G1 1HA) is not a Curry House as normally referenced in Curry-Heute, but a restaurant serving Indian Cuisine. I differentiate due to the minimal number of Curry Dishes on offer. Also, the Menu is not needlessly huge.

Having studied the fayre over the last couple of years, I wondered if there would be anything suitable for me at all. Karahi Gosht, to the best of my knowledge, has never featured at Swadish. Dare I report my empirical observation that the Meat element of the Menu is more suited to the fairer sex? Lots of classic Chicken Curry, not enough Lamb. I shall back up this statement with references to evenings I have dined with a dozen plus ladies: Shahi Masala (Manchester) and Shri Bheema’s (Bridge of Don). Curry-Heute tends not recognise Chicken Dishes as proper – Curry.

Just in case, a booking was made for 14.30 this afternoon. We arrived punctually and were shown to a table in the corner, at the window. Window dressing. To be fair, the diners were well spread out around the restaurant. Marg immediately took to the ambience, cherry blossom hung like hops do in Deustche Bierhalle. At least there were no tablecloths.

The A4 Menu was on the table, I was pleased to see two Lamb Mains, Marg got her selection in first: Braised Hydrabi Lamb Korma (£15.00) – Tender Scottish Lamb beautifully braised for hours, Cloves, Cinnamon, Brown Onion Sauce. The Korma as it should be.

Two things here pleased the Hector: the Capitalisations, and that this was not a standard Creamy Korma. This left me with the Lamb Shank Rogan Josh (£18.00) – Tender Scottish Lamb Shank Braised in Bone Marrow, Cinnamon, Fennel Seeds, Cloves for hours for delicate flavours and mouth melting texture. Topped with Crispy Straw Potatoes.

In Europe, abundant Rice would be inclusive, especially at these prices. This is the Merchant City. Our usual dining model is to share a Rice and Bread. Marg’s preferred Chapatti was not on the Menu. The descriptions of the meals, and online photos confirmed the Curry here would be – Soupy. We needed Rice, but how much? We asked Sanjeev, our waiter, to describe the size of a Rice portion.

Small bowl – was the reply. So two Rice, or Long Grain Basmati Pilau (£3.00) to be precise. A 0.75l bottle of Sparkling Water (£5.50) – they’re having a laugh – completed the Order.

No Starters. Large portions for The Mains were anticipated. I must mention the Roasted Lamb Chops, an Appetiser – £17.00 – for an undeclared number. I would expect at least eight, someone do tell me how many. (For Lamb Chops in Glasgow, go to Akbar’s.)

Would you like Poppadoms? – asked Sanjeev on completion of his note-taking.

This is a game I don’t play.

On the shelf behind Marg, sat the Awards won by Swadish. Who wins Awards? I did note that the majority of the customers this afternoon were ladies. Triangulation complete re the Menu, I rest my case.

Hot plates were brought by a young lady, the food arrived moments later.

The Rice Bowls were hot, as in super-hot. Marg spooned off her required amount, I managed to tilt the contents of my bowl with the aid of the cloth napkin. Two observations: we had way more Rice than we could ever eat, and so we had needlessly missed out on ordering a Naan. This Rice was more complex than a standard Pilau.

The aroma from the Basmati was powerful, Cloves, yay! On tasting the Rice, it was apparent that this was from the same stable as the Spicy Rice whose recipe appears in Curry-Heute. I should make Spicy Rice more often, a delight that enhances any Curry. The Rice today was excellent.

Lamb Shank Rogan Josh

The ornate Toppings were commensurate with the locale. I would rather have forgone these and paid a fiver less.

Enjoy the moment, Hector, it’s your birthday treat.

Bone Marrow was the only clue given as to the base of the Shorva. Behold the Soupiness which Hector typically eschews, however, this was Curry. But which Curry?

In what way was this a Rogan Josh? The traditional wedges of Tomato were absent, as thankfully was the overdone Creaminess which has evolved in recent times. Maybe this Masala was a thick, creamy-ish Shorva?

The Meat fell off the bone – an overused cliché perhaps, but that is exactly what happened, my knife would never be used. Lamb Shank, by definition, a cheaper cut of Meat which must be slow cooked.

One prod with my fork released all of the Lamb from the bone. I carefully decanted the pieces of Meat and then the Shorva. Crucially my photo captured the Meat from the interior of the Shank, sat next to the bone itself. More on this below…

Cloves and Cinnamon, I knew what was coming, I was not disappointed. The intensity of Flavour from the Shorva was taking the palate to the south of India. One has to accept that here the Spiciness was all about the Flavours, not the heat. The Chilli content here was low, if present at all. The Seasoning was there, just, but with the blasts of Cinnamon and Cloves – from the Rice also – there was enough going on here.

Then there was the Meat. The Taste of the Lamb came across, however, as the photo shows, the Spices had not permeated the Meat through to the bone. So, for how many hours had this been – slow cooked? The interior Meat was – taking in Flavour – not giving; visit any of Glasgow’s Southside Curry Cafes to experience the opposite.

Meat and a Spicy Sauce, the definition of Curry, surely? Meat, Shorva and Rice, no diversity, the meal became monotonous. An Interesting Vegetable would have enhanced the Dish. Kerching!

Rogan Josh, really? Was this not Nihari with extra Cloves and Cinnamon?

Braised Hydrabadi Lamb Korma

Here I can use – Masala – with confidence. Far less – Soupy – the sauce had a much thicker consistency, closer to our preference. Beneath the artistic Toppings and Masala, sat large pieces of Lamb, there was clearly a sufficient portion here also. The Soupçon of Masala which crossed the table wasn’t a huge departure from my own Curry.

For the record, nobody came to check on our progress/enjoyment during the meal. Marg gave her detailed description:

Beautifully presented, with an abundance of rice, interesting flavours of Cinnamon, Clove, mixed well with the masala texture. A quantity of Lamb pieces, extremely tender, worked well with the Korma dish. No cream to be seen, a tomatoey, onion sauce, very enjoyable.

It sounds like a decent Lamb Curry then!

Whilst I attempted to finish my Rice, Marg ordered a Latte (£3.30). Sanjeev then presented non-alcoholic digestifs. Cucumber – was Marg’s take, Antiseptic – was mine. The Coffee was enjoyed.

The Bill

£47.80 We had been well fed in pleasant surroundings. It was at this time we established the name of our waiter. QED. Marg’s birthday is not until January, I can start saving.

The Aftermath

I asked Sanjeev to give the Calling Card to his boss. I assumed that this would go via the manager who must surely been made aware of the note-taking and photography at the window. We were actually outside before he acknowledged us. A chat about the philosophy of Swadish would have been appreciated. Does the owner, a Punjabi Chef, ever present Karahi Gosht?

Later, there was a cake. 

This year, I didn’t have to bake my own.

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April 2022 Menu

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Glasgow – Yadgar Kebab House – A third of the way to the next – Hundred!

More Curry, just what Hector needed after Saturday’s excess at Khyber Pass Restaurant. Today Marg was available for lunch, something light was required, Vegetarian even, Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP) never disappoints.

Prior to our Yadgar visit, there was a visit to one of the Asian grocers on nearby Allison Street. Hector will not be running out of Oil anytime soon.

The seating area was empty, but not for long. The 14.00 opening time appears to be settled. Shafiq was behind the counter dealing with the first Takeaway customer of the day. I managed to nudge the chap aside in order to survey the fayre, and photograph it, of course.

Aloo Gobi, perfect. The Aloo Keema Mutter would suit Marg. The Chapli Kebabs were covered, what a pile, someone has been busy. We took our seats. The latest waiter took the Order. Two Chapli for me (aye right), a Naan was added also, plus two cans of Mango Rubicon. It was revealed that the Keema was – Chicken Mince. Marg was happy with this.

The Chapli came in no time at all, accompanied by a cold Chilli Dip. Naveed hadn’t arrived yet, had he been present, the Dip might have been hot. Who knows what else might have been presented, he has a track record. Read previous Yadgar blog entries to get the idea.

Chicken Chapli

A generous half went east, the remainder was quite sufficient. Hector would say that, this was not a Lamb Chop scenario.

Hot, Spicy, Tasty, excellent Chapli, that they were not Lamb-based mattered not a jot. Was this Hector going Vegetarian? Chicken is not Meat according to many a menu.

Naveed entered, the customary greetings were exchanged. The Mains arrived before we had finished the Chapli.

The round Naan was served whole. Thin, the way Marg prefers it, there were some blisters. No panhandle, still, a worthy Naan, all but a scrap would be eaten. Marg acknowledged that sharing this was a positive change from our usual Chapatti.

Aloo Gobi

Steaming hot, a good start. The peripheral Oil stood out as did the Coriander Topping. Sliced Green Chillies would soon be encountered, no issue with the Spice Level here, or the Seasoning. This is Yadgar, they get it right. And so the distinctive Yadgar Taste flooded out, it still impresses that the same core – flavours – come across as they would in a Goshat Karahi.

Fluffy Potatoes, the Cauliflower was soft, but nowhere near going to pulp, perfect Textures. I always think some of the tiny florets are pulped and then used in the Masala. Having sat in the Masala, the Potatoes gave off the Flavour from there also.

Hector, beware of the Black Cardamom – too late!

I recalled once more (Hector Bingo!), the first time I encountered a Black Cardamom: the mid 1970s at Noor Mahal (Shawlands), I thought I had bitten in to an eye.

Naveed was back out, was there anything more we required? A light lunch was the plan, we had all that we needed. Had I spotted Fish Pakora, I may have been tempted.

Meanwhile, Marg was thoroughly enjoying her – Mince & Tatties.

Aloo Murgh Keema Mutter

There’s dry and there’s – Dry. No peripheral Oil, I could not see much in the way of Masala. How many venues mistakenly serve this as approaching – Soup? The Potato pieces were substantial, plenty of Peas in there too. Marg could eat this every day.

A very rich and flavoursome dish full of different textures, and a step above my favourite – Mince& Tatties. A wonderful meal.

So, she enjoyed it then.

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Time to pay, I speculated as to what randomly low number Naveed would come up with today.

The Bill

£12.00   Honourable – I put to Naveed.

Naveed nodded.

The Aftermath

5kg of Basmati and 5l of Olive Oil were carried back to the car.

Half an hour later, a Cumin Seed dislodged itself from wherever it had been trapped. A Cumin blast, I love this!

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Glasgow – Khyber Pass Restaurant – Under New Management

Four days ago, a certain social medium flagged up that it is three years since my last visit to Khyber Pass Restaurant ( St. Andrews Road, Glasgow, G41 1PD). Despite having had Karahi Gosht on my last two Curry outings, I thought I might squeeze in another. Opperchancities for my favourite Curry may be limited in May.

With Central Station Low Level closed for some weeks yet, I have become used to taking the Subway from Partick to the Southside. Shields Rd. is the handiest stop for the Khyber Pass.

Arriving at 14.45, the premises were seemingly empty, nobody front of house. Mein Host came out from the back kitchen, my Order was relayed.

A half kilo of Lamb Karahi (£13.00) and a Plain Naan (£1.00).

As I approached a table in the main dining area, it was confirmed that my Order was for sitting in. Spice Level was then discussed:

Spicy, but not crazy Spicy.

The smile confirmed this was understood.

I took the opperchancity to photograph the far dining room in which I have yet to sit. As I studied the Takeaway Menu, I established that there was no price difference for dining in. My Naan was officially – Fresh Plain Nan. The Bread prices at Khyber Pass have always been realistic.

The cooking of my Karahi was to be done in the open cooking area behind the counter. With greater familiarity, I would have approached to record the moment. Hector the bashful.

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A Salad and Raita were brought to the table. I asked for a jug of water, having seen no Sparkling Water in the fridges. The Salad was certainly better than – modest, the thin Raita had a Peppery kick. At this point I established that the – New Management – have been in place for four months. My question – what happened to the other guys? – fell on deaf ears.

These premises have changed hands at least twice since I first visited – The Khyber – back in March, 2011. Thankfully, the traditional Afghani – Namkeen Karahi – has been maintained throughout all formats. Original Khyber in Shawlands claim to be the chaps who were here first in St. Andrews Road. It is a year since I made my only, visit there. That was for Takeaway during Lockdown restrictions.

After fifteen minutes of scraping, stirring and rolling (the dough), the Order was brought to the table. A – gasp – may have been audible. I had never seen Meat piled so high in a karahi.

Lamb Karahi

At Namak Mandi, I have been served half kilos which have just reached the rim of a comparable karahi. Last Saturday at Karahi Palace, my – portion – was definitely approaching the half kilo. Today’s was decidedly more than the half kilo, could one fit a whole kilo into this karahi? Usually the kilo is served in a larger, and preferably flat, vessel.

The Naan, served whole, was also huge. Despite the perforations, it had risen, probably due to the sheer amount of dough. I suspect some wholemeal flour had gotten into the dough mix. The Bread had risen to create a sufficient level of fluffiness.

I had to decant the Meat to the plate, else my Karahi would have been all over the table. Twelve good sized pieces of Lamb then sat on the plate,

I had hardly made a dent in the contents of the karahi. The Oil ran across the plate. This was not going to waste, especially at a time when cooking Oil is rapidly disappearing from our supermarket shelves.

The first wipe of Oil immediately confirmed the efficacy of this Curry. The anticipated – Pepperiness – was there, and of course, the – Seasoning. The Masala shrouded the Meat, there wasn’t much room in the karahi for an excess. Tomato-based, this was the real deal, the only – red – that would have been added to the pot when cooking. Tomatoes, Green Chillies, Salt and Pepper cooked for hours, hopefully with Lamb on-the-bone in situ. Namkeen Karahi has such a distinctive, full on Flavour,  the simplicity of its magnificence still baffles after all these years.

With the first plateful eaten, along with some Salad, another dozen pieces of Meat were decanted. At this point I accepted that I would be paying for the kilo, I knew I could not eat all that sat before me. That which remained in the karahi would go to a good home, in Helensburgh. The Bread would have to be abandoned, I had hardly eaten any Naan.

The Lamb was Chewy-Tender, it’s exhausting eating this much Meat. I had long passed the point where pleasure was giving way to meeting the challenge. Determination made me eat what was on my plate, that and an honourable upbringing. Mother would have been proud.

It would have been criminal to question the quantity at the point of serving. I took the remaining portion of, still hot, Namkeen Karahi up to the counter:

That’s the largest half kilo I have ever seen.

That was a kilo – was the not unexpected reply.

Perhaps my gentle, West of Scotland accent would have been better served by applying the harsher, Eastend – hoff kilo. (Of course, Hector does not actually have an accent.)

Why would one man order a kilo and not be challenged?

The Bill

£27.00         No hidden charges, so all was well.

The Aftermath

Four customers had arrived as I completed my meal. Mein Host was busy, I drew his attention and left the Calling Card on the counter.

I shall certainly be returning to the latest version of Khyber Pass Restaurant. Being open all day makes the venue fit in with Hector’s preferred eating time. Marg loves Namkeen Karahi, so I shall have someone to share with.

One final piece of information today: the astounding Ramadan Buffet at The Village is back. This should not be missed. This year, the Ramadan Buffet starts at 21.00.   

Menu extracts

Update – August 2025

Khyber Pass is no more.  Around the start of this month, re–branded as Watan Grill.

Charsi, Namkeen and Dumpukht Karahi have been retained, though only Charsi Karahi appears to be served as a standard portion.

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Edinburgh – Kebab Mahal – Approaching Perfection

A train journey without wearing a mask, for Hector, today’s trip through from Glasgow was the first time in over two years there has been the choice. Today’s chosen venue for Curry was the tried, tested and always reliable Kebab Mahal (7 Nicolson Square, Edinburgh EH8 9BH). In recent weeks I have visited other venues on/near Nicolson Square: Mosque Kitchen and Roti of Edinburgh. I shall most certainly return to the latter when I find a dining partner.

Arriving at 14.50, I was initially the only – sit in – customer, others would come. Meanwhile the Takeaway trade was thriving. I took my favourite seat from where I could survey all. It has been some time since I secured this spot, it’s nearly eight months since I was last here at all. Where does the time go?

Master Khan brought the latest edition of the menu, as expected, prices had gone up, and by more than the official rate of inflation. Those who calculate that are not visiting Curry Houses.

Kofta Curry (£8.50) is the one Dish I really should have had here by now. However, I asked the burning question:

Do you have Lamb on-the-bone today?

Yes we do.

Then, it’ll have to be Karahi Ghoust (£12.95) and a Naan.

The Naan was confirmed as – Tandori Nan (£2.35).

For those who keep tabs on these things, a Chapatti now costs £1.25. Still better than Aberdoom, which readers may have noticed has not appeared in these pages of late, but not in the spirit of Bradford.

There was no discussion about the Spice Level of my Karahi and no drink was offered. I noticed that subsequent arrivals simply went to the fridge and helped themselves. No glasses were then forthcoming. I shall return to – Spice Level – later.

I took in the scene, the briefly empty premises. Mein Host emerged from the kitchen:

How are you?

I later noted that all customers were greeted similarly. Maybe Hector is recognised here after seven visits?

It took fifteen minutes for my Order to be prepared, Hector was on schedule.

The Naan, served whole, was enormous. It had the correct pan-handle shape to have come from a Tandoor. Lightly fired around the edges, it had risen significantly in the main body of the Bread. Only a minimal spread of Butter had been scored across the middle, a bit more would have been welcomed. Thankfully, no Garlic had been added. This was one mighty Naan, excellent, and no way would I manage more than half.

Karahi Ghoust

The Meat was piled high in the karahi. Such was the volume, counting was unnecessary, if this wasn’t the half-kilo, it wasn’t far off. Given the restrictions of the karahi itself, the Masala was certainly the definition of Minimal. This is exactly how Hector seeks his Karahi. Pieces of Tomato pulp were mixed through the presumably Tomato-based Masala. From here was the core of the Flavour. The Masala on the Naan was truly delightful. Very little Oil was collecting on the base of the karahi, a few calories less.

The food was – hot. I have just about recovered from the lukewarm Curry served up in the recent Deutschland trip. The Spice Level slowly built, it was well pitched, despite the lack of consultation. The Flavours approached that of Glasgow’s Karahi Palace, but never reached the level of achieving the – wow. It was close, but the lack of Seasoning was once again an issue at Kebab Mahal. My Karahi Palace tweak of – a bit more Salt and Methi – would have had me in raptures. Regardless, this was damn good Curry.

The Tender Meat gave back the Spice, I took another photo at the halfway stage. Later with six decent sized pieces of Lamb still to go, I knew this would be a challenge. The Naan was abandoned, finish the Karahi.

Compared to what I paid, for admittedly two, – Tapas – portions recently at nearby Roti, this was a Meat Feast. Price increase? This may well still be the best value for money in the Capital. There was only one bone!

More Seasoning, Methi, I shall have to communicate better, but that works both ways. The records show that in August last year, I dared to ask Mr. Khan for extra Salt.

The Bill

£15.30 Who needs a drink anyway?

The Aftermath

A perfectly timed number two bus, from across the square, took me back towards Haymarket. The original route has been restored, Grassmarket, it has been a while. What’s that thing on the horizon?

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – Hector ist wieder zu Hause

If hot food is what one is after, then one Glasgow Curry House guarantees it: Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ). Hopefully, the proprietors of the Berlin Curry Houses featured in the past week might come upon this post.

Arriving at 14.10, the plan was to have the usual Karahi Lamb (£9.00) and get to the Subway before the masses spilled out of Hampden Park. Any buses back across the river would surely be as wedged as our TransPennine train yesterday from Manchester.

Shery, Ayaz and the new Chef were present today. The now customary – Boss – greeting was uttered by Shery. Instead of the usual Chapatti (£0.80), a repeat of the recent Coriander Naan (£3.00) was ordered, without Garlic. He brought a welcome jug of tap water, Salad and Sauce were declined.

Ayaz, who normally cooks my Karahi when Chef Rashid is not present, supervised the new chap. Consistency is the name of the game.

When the food arrived, the Naan looked strange. Cut into five pieces, at least the pan-handle remained intact. With only the edges risen, this looked a fairly peely-wally Naan. There was a buttery sheen, not Garlic, and the Coriander topping was minimal. However, the Herb had been rolled inside. There was plenty of Coriander, and somehow, I would eat every piece of this Naan.

Karahi Lamb

Not burning the roof of one’s mouth was objective #1. One has to let the sizzling Oil calm down before the first, all important dip of the Bread.

The Seasoning grabbed my attention, no Curry had in the Deutschland trip came close to this. I risked a hot piece of Meat, beautiful! Lamb that gave off its own Flavour and that of the Spices in which it had been cooked. I never count the Meat at Karahi Palace, there’s always enough, even acknowledging the presence of the Bones.

The Bread and Tomato-rich Masala was an amazing combination. Perhaps it was the thinness of the Naan which let me eat so much, or was it that I was not being bagged up with Rice?

I alternated between pieces of Lamb and Naan/Masala, a Curry I did not want to end. As I dug down into the Masala to fetch another piece of Meat, so I marvelled that the intensity of the heat had been maintained by the hot Oil. Towards the base of the karahi, some of the Ginger Strips were encountered once more, a huge blast of Flavour. Spice, Seasoning, full on Flavour and heat, for me, the four elements which define a truly excellent Curry. … not the Spanish Inquisition.

Ayaz observed my progress, Shery enquired if I needed anything more. What more could I require? The perfect Karahi Gosht in one of my favourite Glasgow Curry Houses.

The Bill

£13.00 I don’t know if the extra £ was due to random pricing of the Naan.

The Aftermath

Farewells, that’s it for another month.

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Manchester – Al-Faisal Tandoori – The Reliable Alternative

Manchester is lit in blue. And by 22.30 last night, the Glasgow team in blue reached the semi finals of the Europa League. Hector will not be in Deutschland for the next round, it’s two weeks too early.

Al-Faisal Tandoori (69 Thomas St., Manchester, M4 1EG) is the go-to Curry Cafe in Manchester when Kabana is closed. That’s twice I’ve missed Kabana on this trip. Today is the start of the holiday weekend, Kabana is closed. Yesterday, a combination of an IT failure at the rightfully maligned BER Brandenburg Flughafen was compounded by an hour’s wait for luggage at Manchester. Two hours were lost, too late for Kabana.

Al-Faisal has a comparable menu, that the staff do not interact is what makes it the lesser venue. Nor does Hector get the mountain of Curry served across the street. We arrived just after our noon check-out in Ancoats, a few tables were occupied, it’s never too early for Curry.

Marg’s choice today, a Vegetable Samosa (£1.00), Salad (£1.00) and a Pakistani Tea (£2.00). For Hector, the customary Lamb Karahi (£6.50) with Rice (£1.50). The usual chap behind the counter took the Order. It was difficult to tell if there was a glimmer of recognition.

With jugs of water and glasses on every table, no need to pay the €5-6 which has been the norm in Deutschland for the last ten days. The serving chap brought the eating irons and napkins. The rest, bar the Tea, followed shortly.

Vegetable Samosa + Salad

This was not the Salad Marg had in mind. Even for £1 she expected more than Lettuce, a few strips of Onion, and a covering of Raita and Tamarind. This was decidedly – modest. When the next customers ordered Salad and received a separate plate, Marg was not amused. The Samosa was better received:

Slightly soggy (it had been microwaved), but full of potato, peas and I think, chilli flakes, which added great flavour.

Lamb Karahi

How I have been looking forward to a Manchester Desi-Karahi, it has been two months. We could have flown home directly to Scotland, however, the flight price to Manchester was such that the extra night’s accommodation and train fare still made it the attractive option. Even on the holiday weekend.

Twelve pieces of Lamb in a blended Masala, sat atop the first sensible portion of Basmati I have seen in a fortnight. The Lamb varied from tender to slightly chewy. This was Lamb, which had sat in its own Masala, it had absorbed the Flavours, plus was giving its own. Simples, but yet too much to ask in the Mainstream Curry Houses who just do not make the effort. They are too interested in offering endless tweaks, not concentrating on offering the tastiest Curry possible.

The food was hot, something three Curry Houses in Berlin had not managed in the past week. The viscous Masala was not excessive, no Shorva, not Soup!

The palate recognised this Lamb Karahi as being in the Manchester style, but the Flavours initially felt a bit subdued. The Spice and Seasoning were – OK. Around the halfway mark I knew why I had come to Manchester, it was all happening, the Cloves must have been kicking in. The Spice and Seasoning had steadily built, any frustrations at not being in Kabana had dissipated. Then I realised something – no Foliage!

I had but a few pieces of Lamb left with some Masala flavoured Rice, it wasn’t too late. Sorted. The Coriander and Chillies added that extra boost, all was well. As I finished the last grain of Rice, for a moment I actually considered ordering the same again. Marg expects our traditional return from a trip – Spag Bol – tonight, better not.

Al-Faisal Tandoori, the reliable alternative to Kabana.

Pakistani Tea

The Tea arrived after Marg had finished her snack. When offered the choice of with/without sugar, Marg usually goes for the latter. Today it just came, eventually. Marg has now decided she prefers this milky concoction with sugar.

Excellent tea, worth waiting for.

The Bill

£11.00. We had calculated £12.00 including the Salad. So the inclusive Salad with the Samosa was deemed to be enough. Why would you want more Salad? If only the Europeans could take the same attitude about Rice.

The Aftermath

I passed what appears to be a new outlet for Curry in the Northern Quarter – Cafe & Grill Istanbul – on Oldham Street. In the daytime they are hardly going to compete with the established venues, however, we’ll see how late they stay open.

For those who have experienced Platform 14 at Manchester Piccadilly, today was another classic example of organised chaos. Even north of Carlisle, people remained standing on the soon to be defunct, I’m told, Transpennine Express. Where’s the Trolly Dolly?

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Berlin – Chutnify – Echtes South Indian Curry

Before matters Curry, I’ll sneak in a mini music post. This afternoon at Alexanderplatz, the sounds of an amazing – groove – wafted through the air. A three piece called Dr. Phil Harmonic, guitar, bass, drums. I should have bought their CD, next time.

This evening Marg and Hector dined at Chutnify (Sredzkistraße 43, 10435 Berlin Deutschland), a Curry House which has been on the radar for some years. Each time I have done the walk along Sredzkistraße from Manifest Taproom (the former Stone Brewing Taproom) to Bräugier, in Prenzlauer Berg, I have witnessed the many people sat at the benches outside Chutnify. In the sixteen Berlin Curry Houses covered to date in Curry-Heute, along with Sadhu, these two have easily been the busiest I have witnessed, yet, on a certain navigation medium, Chutnify it is not rated highly. What do the locals know? Hector was here to find out.

This branch of Chutnify is one of two in Berlin, the other being south of the river in Neukölln. Imagine my surprise when further research revealed three other Chutnify outlets in Portugal. These branches are in Lisboa, Cascais and Porto-Gaia respectively. Hector and Marg had Curry in these three loci just last month. I have must have dismissed Chutnify on each occasion.

With a strong preference for clean air, we climbed up the few stairs to the first of two seating areas. One diner sat in the lower level, a couple up the next few steps in the main dining room. The male, front of house chap greeted us, it was 18.15. Did we have a reservation? He checked the computer, we could have the far corner table. We were advised that the menu could be accessed using the QR code at the table. Ten minutes later we had not managed this, the signal both indoors and out was not for letting us download the pdf file. Why did we have to download it anyway, annoying junk. I attracted the attention of the front of house lady who suggested I try the Wi-Fi. This required a password. No sign of any password, why not have it on the back of the QR code? After a Thali had been taken outside, she came over and entered the password on both of our phones. Success was immediate.

Chutnify is a South Indian restaurant, good news for Hector, but Chettinad was only available in Chicken (€13.00). Marg nearly had this, but then spotted Allepey Fish Curry (€15.50). Curry choices at Chutnify are comparatively few. There was only one Lamb option – Telangana Lamb – (€17.00) with a three Chilli rating. The Allepey was a mere two.

Despite the comparably high prices, there was nothing seen on the menu to state that Rice was included. Marg would have Basmati (€2.00) Hector the Cauliflower Rice (€3.50).

At 18.40, our Order was taken. The lady advised that Rice was inclusive, no Gobi for Hector. A bottle of Sparkling Water (€6.00) concluded the proceedings. And so we sat, watching Thali after Thali go outdoors. Both of our Curry choices were available as a Thali (€19.00). I will need to check next time, but there was the sense that this option meant greater Diversity, but less Curry.

Just on 19.00, the Sparkling Water was brought, the Curry moments later.

One Curry was very much of Berlin, the other had authenticity written all over it.

For once in Deutschland, the Rice portions were sensible. Wastage would be minimal.

Alleppey Fish Curry

Sea Bass, Coconut Milk, Mustard and Ginger – the menu tells us. It didn’t say it was Fish in a creamy Tomato Soup. Creamy Curry in Berlin again. I was happy that I had not been the one who ordered this.

There was plenty of Fish, but without a Vegetable no Diversity. The Thali option therefore has its advantages. I took a Soupçon of the Shorva, definitely worth the – two Chillies. Having come to terms with the Tomato Soup, I was puzzled by the tanginess. However, I was far too busy to dwell on this.

Marg, in the end, would leave the surplus Masala, and about a quarter of the Rice, having reached her capacity.

Lovely pieces of fish, in a rich, creamy, tomato sauce. A tasty kick to complement the the rice. A different meal.

Later I had another go at the Shorva. This had an impressive depth of Flavour. Was the tanginess down to the Mustard? Despite its horrendous appearance, I would consider this to be a worthy Curry.

Telangana Lamb

The long, floating – dark, red Chilli, looked menacing. Again Shorva, but no nasty colouring to worry about here. This looked like echtes Indian Curry, and I do deliberately differentiate between this and my usual intake of Desi-Punjabi fayre. Slow-cooked Lamb – was mentioned in the description, I was surprised to find wedges of Potato in there too. Meat and Vegetables, yay! And the Potato hopefully had not just been introduced to the blended Masala.

Five large pieces of Meat were decanted, one was huge, the equivalent of three in other servings. Plenty of Meat.

And what Meat! Tender does not belong here. This was super-soft Lamb, as always my admiration is expressed for Chefs who can take Meat to the edge of turning to pulp. This was Curried Lamb. A huge Peppery blast hit the palate, three Chillies indeed. In time I would unearth a Curry Leaf and a Clove. Whole Spices in a Berlin Curry? What was happening here? The Flavours were intense, this Curry did not quite reach the smokiness of a Chettinad but was not far off. Earthy, demanding, the Spice was there, the Seasoning was there, finally something to excite in Berlin. However, there was a problem.

Warm – may best describe the temperature of this meal. As one who likes their food to be served – steaming hot – this fell short. Again, next time, I’ll ask to ensure perfection.

With a thicker Masala and served hotter, Hector would have been declaring the – Wow. Hector has found a Curry House in Berlin, and next time in Lisboa, I’ll be there also.

It took ten minutes after we had finished eating, to establish that one paid at the counter. Still the Thali were going outside. The lady addressed me:

You want to pay together?

Getrennt – it’s a German thing.  Not today.

The Bill

€38.50 (£31.90) Worth every Pfennig.

The Aftermath

Realising that still more Thali had to be taken outside, I gave the Calling Card and briefly introduced Curry-Heute.

That was the first Curry I’ve had in Berlin which actually tasted as if it had been cooked by an Indian.

That went down well.

I’m fed up with Cream and Coconut.

That brought a big smile from her male colleague who was also rushed off his feet.

Chutnify, it’s always busy, now I appreciate why.

Chutnify is also open at lunchtimes, and is closed on Mondays.

Menu

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Berlin – Tasty India – Straßenessen

Tasty India (Metzer Straße 21, 10405 Berlin Deutschland) is located round the corner from the Ibis Mitte, our preferred place of residence when in Berlin. It has been in operation for about one year, Mein Host informed us.

We arrived at Tasty India just after the noon opening. On entering, it became immediately apparent that there was next to no space to dine inside. I pointed to the solitary table near the doorway, they would bring it outside. So, Tasty India is primarily a Takeaway, with a green carpet under the canopy outside, for those who wish to brave the elements. There is no toilet available for customers. It was 9ºC as we took our seats, coats were staying on.

Menus were provided, the usual Deutsche-Indian fayre. Then I spotted Fish Vindalu (€10.90) with inclusive Rice. Not often one sees this, it had to be. Marg was having Mix Pakora (Veg) (€7.90) along with Jogi Tea (€1.50). I asked for a litre bottle of Sparkling Water (€2.90), which would surely be the cheapest served in Berlin.

*

Normally, one takes in the ambience of a restaurant at this point, today it was watching the M2 trams running up and down from Prenzlauer Berg to Alexanderplatz.

The drinks arrived, Marg’s Tea was suitably hot and milky, yeuch. I was given a glass of Sparkling Water, so none for Marg. The Pakora and two Dips arrived moments before the Curry.

Mix Pakora (Veg)

I counted about fifteen pieces of Pakora, so the price feels justified. Unlike proper Vegetable Pakora where finely chopped Vegetables are mixed together, this was simply slices of Vegetable in batter. Aubergine, Paneer, Cauliflower and Potato were present, around three or four pieces of each.

Marg avoided the Chilli Dip, and concentrated on the Mint Raita.

Filling – she assured me – a good mixture.

Today, the quantity of Rice matched the Curry, so not totally ridiculous. I helped myself to a plateful, the remainder was hopefully bound for the bin.

Fish Vindalu

Tasty India is my fifteenth Berlin Curry House. I should trawl back through every review to establish how often I have not been given a Creamy Masala. India Club does tick that box, however, today’s blended Masala was typical of Berlin Curry.

I decanted eight good sized pieces of Fish and three large Potato Wedges, plenty of solids. The quantity certainly matched the price, good value. The Masala had a decent level of viscosity, this was far from being Shorva.

Vindaloo in Deutschland is not always associated with a big – Spice – level. Strictly speaking, it doesn’t have to, I have been served many a bland Vindaloo. Today, there was a definite – kick – nothing extreme, but enough to register as a Spicy Curry. The Seasoning was well pitched, and so there was a definite sense of this being a Fish Curry. The Fish retained its integrity until it was cut, no flaky mass here. Soft, tasty, I do enjoy a good Fish Curry, this was not too shabby. The Potato, also soft, did not have the time to absorb the Flavours from the Masala. It did provide the required Diversity.

Do you want more Rice? – asked Mein Host when he came out to check on our progress. How much Rice can Europeans eat?

I ate on, enjoying the Curry. Whilst it may not have been the best ever, the traditional fayre in Deutschland is what makes me persist. Inevitably, the food cooled, but only to 12ºC, there are signs that the end of spring is imminent.

*

The Bill

€22.80 (£19.05)   Mein Host confirmed that the Sparkling Water was listed as – Naan – (€2.50).

The Aftermath

Our brief chat continued. The Real Taste of India – is the tag-line at Tasty India. Clearly, what I had been presented with today was not. I asked if there were any Desi/Apna Curry Houses in Berlin. This did not receive a response.

The search continues. 

Menu extracts

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Berlin – Sadhu Pakistani Restaurant – As Good As It Gets, in Berlin

Marg wanted to visit the Oberbaumbrücke, Hector – The Wall Museum – and so Curry across the River Spree felt logical. Sadhu Pakistani Restaurant (Falckensteinstraße 41, 10997 Berlin, Deutschland) has been visited twice previously. Sadhu, the namesake of Hector’s birth place in Praha. It could be classed – as good as it gets – for Berlin Curry. I’m still looking for genuine – Desi fayre.

Arriving at 13.45, I was surprised at how empty the place was, a handful of diners only. Previously, this venue was bustling, perhaps because it was Saturday? I attempted to consult a well known and reliable Curry Blog to establish what I ordered here before. Alas, the phone signal wasn’t having it. Eventually, I secured the wi-fi password (sadhusadhusadhuw) but only after I had ordered the same as last time.

A splendidly cool 0.75l bottle of Sparkling Water (€6.90) got things underway. Outside conditions are slowly changing, warm in the sun, cold in the shade. By the time we leave Berlin it might actually be – hot.

Lamm Bhuna (€12.90) was ordered, Basmati included as is the European way. Marg chose Murgh Salat (€6.50). With so few fellow diners, service was prompt, efficient.

Complimentary Poppadoms, with the embedded Cumin Seeds were provided along with three Dips. I informed Marg that either the red one, or the green, was fierce. Marg confirmed it was the green. Curry-Heute would have informed me that the Green Dip was – absolute hell.

Murgh Salat

Throughout Lockdown, Marg’s Salads became legendary on a certain social medium. Today, here was a Bunte Salat fit for a Marg. The Chicken Tikka was covered by a mass of Lettuce, Rocket, Tomato and Green Peppers. Slices of Carrot and Cucumber formed the peripheral guard. Slices of Orange added another dimension. The swirl of Chilli Sauce and Yoghurt was a work of art.

That I would be finished my Curry before Marg put away her Salad, says everything about its enormity.

Very enjoyable, loads of vegetables. The orange added a tanginess, very refreshing.

I think we have established that the Murgh Salat is a meal in itself and should not be considered an entrée.

Lamm Bhuna

Last time this was Bhuna Gosht (€14.20) from the Specials Board. Today’s Lamm Bhuna was from the Chef’s Recommendations at the start of the menu. It was not part of the main list of Lamb Dishes. Back in 2019, it is possible I was served something approaching a – Desi Curry.

The Ginger Strips and modest Coriander topped a reasonably Thick Masala. The Masala was full of Tomato and Onion, the latter thankfully – finely chopped. This was a step up from the usual blended Masala.

Once again in a European Curry House, the Rice portion was ridiculous. I took my fill of well cooked, fluffy Basmati. What happens to the remainder? A friend who used to work in catering once asked me at home – do you recycle rice? … and he wasn’t referring to the leftovers nobody had taken, but that left on their plates.

I didn’t count the Meat as I decanted, it was easily into double figures. The Lamb proved to be so Tender-soft, minimal chewing was required. As ever, the Lamb was such that one concludes it had only recently met the Masala.

Spice was not registering on the palate, how could it after the assault by the – Green Dip? However, the Seasoning was, and so somewhat distinctive Flavours were coming across. I spotted finely cut pieces of Red Chillies in the Masala. There was therefore a hint of South India to this Bhuna.

My meal had cooled substantially, yet note the initial vapour rising. The temperature of the Rice was cooling the Curry. Eventually I had to record that this Curry needed more Spice and more Heat.

A pity, this otherwise, was – as good as it gets.

The Bill

€26.30 (£21.95) I paid by card, my app showed – Shalimar. Now there’s a mystery.

The Aftermath

We walked back across the Spree to The Wall Museum. How we could do with a Gorbachev today.

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