Finding Curry in Gent on a Tuesday evening, how difficult can it be? Eventually, I was well fed at Royal India (Donkersteeg 19, 9000 Gent, Belgium) but this was actually my fourth choice.
Punjab Tandoori (Sleepstraat 67, 9000 Gent, Belgium) have previously served a Lamb Karahi worthy of the Hector, this was therefore choice of venue #1. Arriving just before 18.00 they should have been open, however, I have had issues here in the past about not being open as advertised, particularly at lunchtime. The opening times are on the door, so what was happening? Hector Holmes sprung into action, I phoned, and got an answer. There was no convincing explanation as to why Punjab Tandoori was closed. I was assured they would be open tomorrow, but Antwerpen is calling. Thursday? No guarantee.
Having been to the two nearest venues to Punjab Tandoori and not been that impressed, I decided to schlep to Mission Masala – Gent (Bij Sint-Jacobs 19, 9000 Gent, Belgium). What a mistake to make.
The other customers were sat through the back, I was shown to a table front of house. The menu was brought, one side food, the other drinks. A – sharing menu – but I am only one. Hang on, there was something missing from the menu, Curry! I asked the young waiter – where’s the Curry? Being only his second day on the job, he did not understand my question, he fetched his boss.
Lamb Kofta Curry was mentioned in the Mission Menu (€69.50), that was it. What is Desi Pulpo (€15.00) about? Rubbery Indian Cuisine? This and other Dishes mentioned Butter, there was no sign of an actual – Masala – in the rest of the Fayre. The description for Oh My Gobi (€9.50) reads like an abuse of Cauliflower, and belongs on another menu.
Where’s the Curry? – I asked the Boss.
We do fusion food – was the reply.
Fusion food my arse, no I didn’t say that. I have previously written about the ever growing number of Tapas venues, at least they serve Curry. This was just sh*te, an abomination of a menu.
Your menu is garbage – I did say – good luck.
For the second time in as many months, Hector walked out of an Indian Restaurant that had no – Curry.
Mission Masala is not a Curry House. I thought Google Maps, and hence the general public, should be made aware. My simple one liner received an almost immediate response. I added a bit more, time will tell if this gets published on Google, but it is here.
*
Next, Taste of India – Gent (Donkerstateeg 11, 9000 Gent, Belgium), closed. To be fair, even Google shows them closed on Tuesdays. The menu looks quite decent, maybe one for the future. Fortunately, it was only a few doors down to Royal India, where I was greeted outside by the chap who would turn out to be the husband of Mein Hostess.
Royal India was stowed, well it would be, where else in Gent can you get a Curry-Heute? I was asked if I didn’t mind going upstairs. Here I had the room to myself, though others were brought up before being taken back downstairs as tables became available.
A young waiter brought the menu, a litre bottle of Sparkling Water (€6.50) felt like a good deal. The Lamb Dishes looked on the expensive side, but Rice was included, so no Jeera Rice (€4.00) would come my way. Lamb Rogan Josh (€20.00) was Hector’s choice.
#14? – asked the waiter.
No, #10!
Spicy – was agreed, the chap from outside made an appearance upstairs, he too verified – Spicy. Do the citizens of Gent not eat Spicy Curry? Another waiter also confirmed #10, and Spicy.
I was asked where I was from, as the husband of Mein Hostess took a seat with a friend across the room. There was a sense of – I told you.
The Rice portion was sensible, manageable, every grain would be eaten. No Euro wastage tonight. The chap asked why I hadn’t ordered Naan, that would have been a waste. He brought a small dish of – something very Spicy – just in case. Sitting in a private room, Hector was being well looked after.
Lamb Rogan Josh
I counted seven decent sized pieces, plus a tiddler, as I arranged the Meat on the Rice. The Masala was that of a classic Curry, blended with an oily sheen. The actual quantity of Oil was minimal.
The Lamb was suitably Tender and gave a – kick – back when eating. For the price charged, some more pieces would have been welcomed.
The Masala lacked Seasoning, finding Flavour was proving to be a challenge, but things would improve. The prevalent – Euro-Curry Taste – at least had been avoided. Although the Spice Level was acceptable, it was time to try the dangerous Side. Super Spicy Pickle – is what I noted, it might even have had a Horseradish base, I knew that care had to be taken here.
This certainly livened things up, somehow, I had much more Flavour in the Curry overall. The tip of my tongue may have been tingling, the remainder of my taste-buds were not tarnished. Things settled down, this Curry was proving to be enjoyable.
When I describe this Curry as – Mainstream – this is quite a compliment. In the early days of Curry-Heute I had some decidedly bland, Soupy Curry served to me in Belgium. Blandness seemed almost mandatory. If Royal India is representative of the current Belgian Curry scene, maybe things are improving.
The Bill
€24.00 (£20.66) Paid by, card, downstairs.
The Aftermath
I had already given the Calling Card to the chap towards the end of my meal. He was ready to chat some more when I went downstairs to pay. He too was disparaging about Mission Masala, and worryingly thinks Punjab Tandoori may go out of business. Well if they don’t open their doors, that is inevitable.
Finally, I was introduced to the Lady, his charming wife and owner. A memorable visit, as a solo diner I was certainly looked after. The Curry wasn’t too shabby either.
Royal India : Menu extracts
Raunak Raveeli India (10 Clarendon St., Glasgow G20 7QD) has been open for about a year, Mein Host – Rohit – told me this afternoon. Somehow, Hector was only made aware of its existence in the past few weeks.
Despite Maryhill Rd. selling a disproportionately high quantity of Takeaway Curry in Glasgow, there are only two Curry Houses in which one can dine: the former 
Hector was the Lone Diner this afternoon. The menu was on the table. Raunak Raseeli India is another in the ever growing number of so called – Tapas – restaurants. My reaction is always – small portions, disproportionately high prices. Sharing the kilo is Hector’s style. However, if Curry-Heute is to maintain a comprehensive coverage of Glasgow Curry, these places have to be visited. 
I decided that two Dishes should be within my capacity. Delhi Style Lamb (£7.95) is on-the-bone and also features Potato. Fish Masala (£6.95) should also reveal the efficacy of what is available. The search for the ultimate Fish Curry in Glasgow continues, 
On seeing the Curry, I knew I should have ordered Rice. The Naan, served in five pieces, did not impress. Greasy, not risen, not puffy, this was as much Puri as Naan. The lack of girth reminded me of my own attempts at cooking Naan. I managed four of the five pieces. 
A big Sucky Bone protruded from the Masala, this was a good start. I would find four large pieces of Meat, three of which were on-the-bone. I considered emptying the pot on to my plate, but kept to my norm. This would prove to be an error. 
An orange Masala, slightly Creamy too, so markedly different from the above. I found four decent sized pieces of Fish when I raked around. The White Fish retained its integrity, Tilapia, OK, I asked. There was a Sweetness from the Fish which did not suit the Hector palate, add the creaminess, and this was not the Fish Curry that Hector dreams of. 
Rohit asked the customary question. I recognised that I had two different Curry experiences, and praised the Lamb. Lamb on-the-bone is always welcome. 
The Aftermath
Curry – #2, or is it #3 – Heute? Having sat opposite 
Lamb Chukka has gone from the 
For those who have yet to try a Malabar Paratha (Parotta), they are a major departure from the norm. Thicker, flakier, softer, always smaller, they are more Buttery than a traditional Paratha. One day I shall order two, John took care of his three. 
Soupy and Creamy, usually these are the negatives in Curry-Heute, but not when the Masala packs this much Flavour. The mandatory dried Red Chilli was present giving the required – smokiness. Curry Leaves – also, which I have only recently discovered add to this. With a Big Peppery blast, tasty.
I decanted to the plate to see exactly what I had before me. Was this a Happy Hector? Not today. This was the – large – portion? Six, not particularly large pieces of Meat and two tiddlers hardly justified the price. It might look a plateful, this was a side-plate, not a dinner plate. 
Less Peppery in appearance, the Masala was also a bit darker. Otherwise, the same Soupy Curry. I am unlikely ever to order this, Hector, Chicken Curry? John assured me it was wonderful:
For years, Hector has been celebrating the wonder that is the Tomato-based Masala, an integral part of authentic Punjabi Karahi. The method has been hinted at by Chefs, previous attempts have fallen short. Creating the rich texture and killer taste has remained a mystery, my attempt this evening may well have cracked it.
The absolute simplicity of Namkeen Karahi has suggested that less is more, it was therefore a case of what to leave out. Studying a variety of sources, it was decided to abandon many of the ingredients that would appear in a 
Time to taste. Oh yes! 
This is where so many recipes and video demonstrations fudge reality. Lamb does not cook in twenty minutes. Cooking Lamb in the Masala is going to burn the Masala. The Meat has to be precooked. Today I added leftover Lamb from earlier in the year. 
Time to eat.
I wasn’t making Bread today, so Rice it had to be. For once, my Rice let me down. I ignored the microwave – ding – and did not drain the Rice, it went a bit stodgy. 
Hector’s Curry tends to turn out tasting like – Hector’s Curry. Finally, the breakthrough, this tasted nothing like I have ever cooked before. The true Desi Masala Flavour was there, 
Actually, it was that good. The Spice was far from stressful, the Seasoning a la Hector. The Lamb, thoroughly cooked at a previous time, did come across as though it had only met the Masala, it had. The Flavours from the Lamb were therefore a counterpoint to those from the Masala. The best of both Worlds? 
As I took my seat, I recognised a well kent face that I hadn’t seen since before Lockdown #1. Behold, Curryspondent John! I wonder how much Curry we have eaten between us since our last meeting?
established through time, Lamb Desi Qorma was available on demand, albeit – Boneless. 
The Mushroom Rice was a decent plateful. With Fresh Mushrooms, enough Diversity on offer. Every grain of Rice would be eaten. 
It’s good to be home. The Coriander and Ginger Strips topped the mass of Meat and Masala. The Meat count was into double figures; the bone count was four, two of which were – Sucky! I left some of the Wonderful Masala in the karahi for the end game. 
When Curry-Heute was conceived, I had to stop eating this Curry twice a week. There wouldn’t have been much of a Blog otherwise.
A whole Clove was taken in the first mouthful, quite dramatic. This took the palate in the direction of Manchester Curry. As I ate on, so the warmth of Flavour developed. The Seasoning was decidedly – brave. Marg was witnessing the degree of my pleasure. 
The Tomato-rich Masala released some of its Oil on the periphery of that which remained. Almonds? I saw none, perhaps ground and mixed in? I was less aware of the Citrus which I enjoyed so much in my early years at 
Marg’s Coffee impressed. Accompanied by both a biscuit and a chocolate mint, she felt this was the treat she sought:
We were the first customers of the day at 12.30. I had the Oppo at the ready with the photo of 
The waiter brought the pot to the table with a foil lid in situ. After the photo, he then stirred up the contents of the pot to create an even more photogenic Biryani. I concluded the Vegetables had been steamed in the pot with the Rice. Would this work in a microwave?
There was enough Rice for two generous portions. Carrots were the prominent Vegetable. Peas, Broccoli, minimal Potato, Cauliflower and slivers of both 
Ginger strips and the merest sprinkling of Coriander sat atop the Masala. As I decanted the Curry to my plate, so the efficacy of the Desi Masala became evident. This was a classic Tomato-based Masala. The Mutton was on-the-bone, actually this was the second time I have had Lamb this way in Barcelona, cf 
Oh yes – as Churchill says in a well known TV ad. This was it, the veritable Desi Masala. The Seasoning registered immediately, bang on! The Spice was not challenging, that would have taken some feat given last week’s 
Back to the Masala, no Whole Spices, nothing been given away, however, one could not attain this depth of Flavour without the correct blend of Herbs and Spices. If only I knew the secret. I used the Roti to scoop up the remnants of the Masala in the pot – Mmmm. I knew I would have to abandon the Bread if I was going to finish all on my plate. Only traces of Oil were present in the entire Dish. Only near the end did I realise that I had but the two bones. There was still a lot of Meat shrouding the Sucky Bone, my final pleasure. 
What appeared to be Dessicated Coconut topped the Orange-Yellow Masala. The appearance was significantly different from 
A creamy and rich buttery sauce with plenty of Chicken. The Vegetable Biryani was full of Peppers, Carrots, Peas, and Broccoli which gave the dish a variety of textures and flavours making this a wonderful experience.
Our host turned on the lights and invited us to inspect 
After ten days of enjoying Desi Curry firstly in 
Acqua Frizante (€2.00) was sorted first. The Italians do not overcharge for water, another 750ml bottle soon followed. The menu showed seven Lamb Dishes, Marg would have the Keema Matar (€12.00) accompanied by a Chapatti (€2.50). This is a ridiculous price for a Chappati. 
The slice of Lemon sat on top of two whole Green Chillies. A Vindaloo with extra Chillies. The blended Masala had a decent viscosity. I counted the solids believing them all to be cubes of Fish. It was Marg who noticed that some of what I was arranging on the Rice was actually Potato. Six good sized pieces of Fish and three bits of Potato was enough, I suppose. The white Fish retained its form, I understand that this was – Swordfish – possibly a first on Curry-Heute.
The Spice Level was fierce, definitely a Vindaloo if one employs that scale. The Seasoning was less apparent such that this Curry had no real depth of Flavour. 
I took some of the Pickle and stirred it in to the Masala. The Seasoning increased dramatically, the Spice Level was also tempered, and there was suddenly way more Flavour in the Curry. The rest of the Pickle was employed, the Fish Vindaloo-Achari was a much better creation. 
A direct comparison of the two Breads was then possible. Drier, crispier, the Roti, for once, proved to be the better option. 
The Coriander Topping was generous almost – foliage. The Mince was ground coarsely. Whilst the surface of the Keema looked suitably Dry, the Oil became increasingly visible as Marg made progress. An Oil table? 
Marg’s account:
In we went, to check the place out. A large group of Asians occupied most of the main dining area, a private party? Apparently not, but this is evidently where the – Indians – eat in 
Marg and Hector have left 
Trastevere
The nuns departed, there was even a smile in my direction. 
When the chap brought the food, expectation levels were raised further, this all looked wonderful. Behold the White Paratha, as served at too few venues I know of in Scotland. As ever, it was small. 
The softness, was present, the subtle flakiness, excellent. I was tempted to order another immediately, we had more than enough food in front of us. 
The Vegetable Biryani was topped with a Poppadom, Marg would have this. On the edge of the plate was a spoonful of something unknown. We took plates of Rice from the mound. There was plenty to share, more, but not an excessive amount a la mainland Europe. Oh, we are in mainland Europe. 
A solitary Green Chilli, Cauliflower, Courgette, Carrot, Potato and abundant Khadu were present. In time we would uncover Cinnamon Bark and Green Cardamoms. A plate of Raita was also provided – for the Biryani. Potentially a meal in its own right, the perfect accompaniment, adding a diversity of Textures to the overall meal, just the way Hector enjoys his Curry. 
The Meat was piled high in the bowl, its volume meaning the brown Shorva would in no way be excessive. Shorva yes, Soupy Curry, no. On decanting, there was a further moment of joy when I realised that the Mutton was on-the-bone. This is a rarity in Europe. I arranged the Sucky Bone on the pinnacle of my assembly, surely this was going to be a memorable Curry. 
The distinctive Flavour of Mutton registered, a good start. The Seasoning was there, the Spice was initially modest until I dared to eat the whole Green Chilli. This upped the level significantly. The overall Flavour came under the all embracing – earthy and distinctive. 
This was something quite different from the norm. Hector-the-analyst was called into action. The Masala was too thin to have been Onion based let alone see a Tomato. Gravy – might be apposite here. Alarm bells were ringing, I’ve encountered this a few times, Thankfully, – Bisto – this was not, but what was it? 
There’s more. I sampled the Chutney-like stuff which accompanied the Biryani. Pickle! Oh yes! Start again. As Marg was taking care of the Raita, so I dealt with the Pickle. Mixing this in to the Shorva soaked Rice added another dimension to the Flavour of this meal. 
This Curry was markedly different. Here was a recognisable Masala, complete with an Oily residue, therefore closer to what one expects. Nigella/Onion Seeds were mixed in along with a cooked single Green Chilli. Three large pieces of Fish sat in the Masala. The Fish was on-the-bone, at least there were no eyes staring up at Marg. Another piece of something that was not Fish was scrutinised, Ginger. Why serve Ginger in this manner, surely it should be finely chopped and mixed through the Masala? 
Smokiness – was Marg’s first comment This is what I anticipated, a good South Indian Fish Curry taste. I wiped a bit of Paratha in the Masala, Smoky this was not. This had the classic appearance of a decent Fish Curry, but was puzzling us both. What were we tasting? In the end I gave up, let’s just say the Flavour was unique.
A different flavour – began Marg – earthy, with pieces of Fish, on-the-bone, making it fiddly to eat. I enjoyed the Vegetable Biryani with the yoghurt. 
I presented the Calling Card and showed the Curry-Heute website on the ever so reliable Oppo. Once again I mentioned – Chettinad. I had the feeling that this was one of those conversations where the recipient was simply smiling hoping the conversation would soon end.As we departed, so we noticed that there was a railway line running under the glass floor. Why did this create a sense of deja vu?
Kofta Anda (€4.50) was ordered, this includes the Pakistani Roti (€0.40). Marg mentioned Chickpeas, once again I dissuaded her. We didn’t spot Samosa on the menu, but the waiter confirmed they were available. Samosas for Marg. 
My food came first complete with a plate of Salad and Raita, again inclusive in the price of the Order. 
Two Kofta and one hard boiled Egg as in the model experienced at 
Consequently, the first dip of Bread in the Masala was another wonderful moment. The sprinkling of Coriander appeared modest. The blast of Herbs took me aback, if Wednesday was excellent this was something else, another – Wow! The Spice, Seasoning and Flavours were all spot on. I would encounter a Black Cardamom and solitary Black Peppercorn, whole Spices, the sign of quality.
Two Vegetable Samosas were smothered in Yoghurt and Ketchup. There was a Salad in there too, plus something that would finally change my opinion on whole Chickpeas. 
The Chickpeas were shrouded in a Mash which I initially took be mashed Chana. However, I note on the menu, the presence of Daal Chana (€3.50). This was certainly what was smothering the Samosas, remember them? 
Marg used the Raita as an accompaniment more than the Yoghurt. With the small Salad on the table, plus what came with her Dish, Marg was well served with Vegetables. The Samosas were almost incidental:
It’s a couple of years since Marg and Hector sampled the fayre at 
As we entered at 13.00, there was a smile of recognition from Mein Host:
The menu was brought. Shockeroony, the prices had gone up, a whole Euro on every dish, or 20%. In other words: what I consider to be the actual rate of inflation. This modest increase also shows why the lesser paid do not want % increases, but flat rates. 
With fewer tables on the ground floor, I managed an uninterrupted view of the counter and the Bread chef, busy rolling out the dough. Soon, the waiter was assembling the array on the table. 
A Salad, once again featuring two large Pickled Chillies was accompanied by a Raita. Today I thought the better of having the Chillies. The Bread arrived, a pair, light and puffy, what were these exactly? Turning crispy as they cooled, not a Naan. And not the wonderfully soft Pitta/Naan crossover I have particularly enjoyed here previously. Was this the actual Pakistani Roti? Whatever, they are not listed on the menu, and are inclusive along with the Salad and Raita. Fancy paying for Salad. 
A decent size, two was sensible. By the time Marg assembled the Salad and drizzled the Raita, she had a veritable plateful, and all for €2.00. 
Two Kofta and one hard boiled Egg, yes one Egg is …
The burst of Flavour from the Kofta took me by surprise, this was intense. Well Seasoned with a Cumin aftertaste – was recorded. The Masala gave off a hint of Citrus. I couldn’t tell if this was already there or was a consequence of Marg’s exuberant squeezing of the Lemon over the Salad, and everywhere else. The Shorva of course had its own distinctive Flavours, therefore when taken with the Kofta, created a flavoursome synergy and a huge blast of Spice. Once again, Hector’s throat was registering serious Spice. I have often wondered why the Egg features, today I may have come to realise why. The Masala and Egg offered respite from the Masala and Kofta combination. 
Between us, we managed only one Roti, once they turn crispy, the attraction has gone. However, the initial Bread and Masala was also a pleasure worth experiencing.
The Bill