Bradford – International – Impersonal Service

Midnight Curry in Bradford, last month Hector and Marg visited Sheesh Mahal over two nights. Tonight, it was decided to give the other stalwart – International (40-42 Morley Street, Bradford, BD7 1BA) another go.

Another go? Once upon a time there would have been no reticence, a visit to International would guarantee the warmest of welcomes plus of course, excellent Curry.

The era of Bashir, Khalid and Ali is long gone.

Entering just before midnight, I stopped to take a photo of the glass door. As well as the photo being a work of art, note the opening times. 11.30 – I have been arguing for all day opening for years. The payback is not being open all night, for that there is the Sheesh Mahal. Lunchtime Curry at International, next trip.

In the most recent visits to International, the intensity of Flavour in my chosen Curry has varied. I consulted a well known and reliable Curry Blog to establish the last time I was truly impressed here. Lamb Nawabi Khana (£11.95) is described as both – complex – and – Desi. It was definitely time to try this again.

Inclusive Chapattis/Naan etc are no more at International. I would ask for a Chilli & Coriander Naan despite this not being on the Menu per se. The all embracing box should guarantee flexibility.

Marg, who only had Samosas during our lunchtime visit to Kashmir Restaurant across the street, was still not ready for Curry. Special Vegetable Pakora (£4.50) would suffice.

One of the many young waiters buzzing around the ground floor dining area, took the Order. I got my – no Peppers – in just in case. Capsicum has never been an issue at International, better to be safe.

A group of young chaps took a table within my field of vision. One chap had Curry, Naan and Chips. Chips with Curry I have never understood, who has Potato with Curry? Is Aloo Gosht on the International Menu? Anyway, good on him. Oh to be able to eat that quantity of carbohydrates, writes the man who is always ready to share a kilo of Karahi Gosht, a veritable protein overdose.

Special Vegetable Pakora

Four Bhaji-sized pieces of Pakora, hardly – Special. And certainly not when compared with Dumbarton’s famous Delhi Darbar who dish out mountains of the stuff. The accompanying Salad was ever so modest.

The batter coating looked somewhat bizarre, and certainly on the crispy side.

My Pakora is a little bit doughy – was Marg’s immediate observation, her concluding remarks:

Four large pieces of Pakora, with a well done taste. They were full of vegetables, but a little doughy in certain areas. I enjoyed the Raita which was necessary to moisten the dish, they were too dry otherwise.

Lamb Nawabi Khana

Topped with a decent amount of fresh Coriander, and a good slice of Lemon, the abundant Meat protruded through the Thick Masala. There were pieces of Tomato cooking in there also. With the Oil collecting on the periphery of the karahi, this was ticking all of Hector’s – Desi – boxes. The Meat, impossible to count unless it was decanted, was on the large end of – Bradford small. This had the look of the full Bradford Curry Experience.

The Chilli & Coriander Naan was void of Chilli, so Chef was not so flexible then. For the record, the Coriander Naan was £2.95. With loads of mini burnt blisters, risen towards puffy at the edges, and no sign of Garlic, this was close to the Hector idyll. A pity then about the missing Chillies. The Naan was large, well worth the price, and was clearly never going to be finished, even with Marg’s help. I bet the young chap sitting nearby could have polished this off after his feast. When a Naan is this good,  too much will be eaten, the challenge is maximum Naan intake, but eat all the Curry.

‘Kinnell! Behold – The Big Bradford Blast! Here was – the taste – that one seeks in a Bradford Curry. The squeezed Lemon added Citrus to the impressive level of Spice. Maybe I didn’t need the extra Chillies in the Naan after all. The Flavour of the Lamb itself came across. Marg took a Soupçon – Earthy – she declared. Hector was in his element, despite the Seasoning being a good bit below what one hopes for in a Curry. The palate was being tested, the appetite sated, all was going well, then…

Around the halfway point I realised that the portion in front of me was even larger than I had at first estimated. This made yesterday’s portion at Sultans Restaurant look – small. The Naan had to go, a pity, I was thoroughly enjoying it. This meant Meat and Masala only. Hector had another problem.

Without the Bread mask, the Masala tasted – powdery. Can I add – powdery – to the accepted list of – tastes? Powdery is certainly not a – flavour – and what I was experiencing was certainly not a matter of – texture. The Masala tasted as though a Spice had been stirred in close to the point of serving but not properly cooked in. Had I sent the remnants back for a reboot this might have been overcome. I tried to identify the particular, offending Spice. It is frustrating when one knows, but cannot name it.

What had been a wonderful Curry ten minutes previously was no longer. I would leave more than I ever should, Marg took a further Soupçon, that was all.

So, what had happened here, was my observation accurate?  In restaurants where the staff are more involved with the overall dining experience, one could comment, they might have an answer, possibly a solution. Khalid and Ali would have been on the case.

Impersonal Service

The young chaps do well, but it’s all robotic, a rush to get things done. Yes, the courtesy questions are asked, however, sincerity, or heaven forbid humour, appears to be thin on the ground. It is clear that International needs a recognised MC.

There was a flurry of excitement across the table when I asked for – The Bill. Chocolate, Marg had spotted Chocolate being presented in the wallet. Today is not a Tuesday, Marg knew both bits were coming her way.

The Bill

£19.40 Confirmation that I had asked for a Chilli & Coriander Naan (£2.95).

The Aftermath

Moments after I left International, a seed became unstuck, ah Cumin. That was it, either powdered Cumin, or a Garam Masala rich in Cumin is what had dominated the final mouthfuls.

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Bradford (Frizinghall) – Sultans Restaurant – The New Premises

Sultans Restaurant (204-206 Keighley Rd., Frizinghall, Bradford BD9 4JZ) have completed the move to a more pukka location. Diagonally opposite the Lister Park and adjacent to Bradford Grammar, they have retained their position on the main road north from Bradford city centre. Beware of the walk up the hill from Frizinghall train station, quite a climb.

With a bit of puffing and panting, Hector and Marg arrived at Sultans fifteen minutes before the 16.00 rendezvous with The Rickmeister. Mein Host, Habib, was there to greet, he remembered our faces. We were shown to the window booth table, a bit of a squeeze, in fact this proved to be too much of a squeeze when Ricky arrived. We took a table opposite.

The new Menu was on the table, prices remain competitive, and as is the Bradford way, three Chapattis, salad, and sauce are served with each Curry. QED.

Our Order was a case of deja vu, Ricky was having the Koftay (£10.00), if available. He has been disappointed on previous visits. Surely, with the new Menu, all Dishes should be available at all times? For Hector, a true Bradford Curry – Handi Gosht – (£10.00) served on-the-bone. Marg stuck to tradition – Keema Karahi – (£9.00). When Ricky declared a Starter – Sheek Kebab – (£3.00), Marg and I were set to share a Fish Pakora (£5.00).

The young waiter confirmed the availability of the Kofta, he also suggested that given we were due nine Chapattis, he bring six initially. Who could eat nine Chapattis? Marg ensured her Curry would not be – too Spicy. Ricky and Hector went for medium, plus.

We nibbled on the inclusive Salads whilst we waited. The bottle of Raita sauce, on every table, is available to buy as a Takeaway. As and when our fellow diners moved on, I took the opperchancity to take photos of the new premises. The décor is simple, and definitely an improvement on what was.

Sheek Kebab

Two Chicken Sheek, Seekh Kebabs, were presented halved and smothered in raw Onion Rings plus pieces of Tomato. With the bottle of Raita applied abundantly, these did not last long. Maybe next time I’ll try these.

Fish Pakora

The same Toppings obscured the pieces of Fish. Even whilst sharing, the portion felt sufficient. The long pieces of White Fish tasted fresh, the Batter was suitably Spiced, however, the Seasoning was way below what the Hector looks for. Fish without Seasoning, we’ve been here before, and too often. Enjoyable as this Pakora was, it could have been so much more.

On completion of the Starters, we were asked if we wanted our Mains right away. Ricky asked for two minutes. We probably secured a more decent five.

Only in Bradford does one see such a pile of Chapattis on the table. Should this not be universal? The Chapattis were of the classic variety: thin, wholemeal, and soft. These would never turn to crisp. The first five were consumed, when offered more Ricky suggested that two would suffice, the extra three came. In the end, two remained untouched. A waste? Remember, these cost Pennies to turn out, not Pounds. The Menu price for Chapattis here is 60p.

Handi Gosht

The Toppings were no more than sliced Green Chillies. By the appearance of the rings, these must have come from the huge, tubular Chillies, whose name I have yet to identify.

With the Meat on-the-bone well into double figures, what at first looked like quite a modest portion, was in fact both a sensible and satisfying quantity. Go large – for an extra £4.50) is available in some Mains, not the – Sultans Specials – though I’m sure one could negotiate. Check the Thick, and seriously Dry Masala, this is the standard which Bradford has set. Surely the Mainstream restaurants across the land should at least be able to offer one Curry from their vast menus in this style?

This Curry was a slow builder in terms of Spice and Flavour. This was down to the low level of Seasoning. This has not been an issue here in the past. Slowly, slowly, this Curry raised itself up the scale of pleasure. The Meat was suitably Tender, Sucky Bones added to the experience. Whilst the – wow – level was not attained, this was still a damn, fine Bradford Curry.

Keema Karahi

Habib had told us that today he had – freshly made Keema with Potatoes.

He says that every time – responded Ricky.

With the peripheral Oil collecting, the heart of this Keema Karahi looked suitably moist, not wet. Where was the Potato? Marg assured me they were there – small bits, tiny. This was different.

An excellent Keema – concluded Marg – with Potato rather than Peas. I feel as if I’ve had a real meal, and I nearly had two Chapattis.

Koftay

At first sight, there appeared to be more Kofta than I have ever seen for this Dish served in a restaurant. It was only on studying the photo closely that I spotted the boiled Egg. This was a Kofta Anda bearing no resemblance to that served to Steve last summer. This Curry had decidedly more Masala than the two above, interesting. On my next visit to Sultans, I’ll be having what The Rickmeister had today. His verdict:

No change, except the price. As good as normal.

The Bill

£40.00    Cash only, and a round figure, alas, rounded up.

The Aftermath

On leaving, I managed to secure the photo of the entrance room where Takeaways are processed. This substantial area provides plenty of space for meet and greet, and social distancing. I like the new premises, the noon opening maintains. There shall be more visits. In the meantime, this was my fifth visit, so there should be enough coverage of the Curry to create a – Sultans Restaurant – dedicated page, and of course add this establishment to – Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses.

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Manchester – Lahori Badsha – Curry, Hector, remember – Curry?

Two years since my last visit to Lahori Badsha (140 Cheetham Hill Rd, Manchester, England M8 8PZ)? It’s moments like this that make one realise how much time has been stolen from us.

Marg was just about on board to have Curry three days in a row, even sharing the kilo if required. The intended venue for today was – Dera – further up Cheetham Hill Rd, alas their phone was always busy. A mid afternoon Curry was planned, no point going all the way up there to be disappointed. I have Curryspondent Ahmed in Islamabad on the case, more news as and when.

The walk to Lahori Badsha from Ancoats is not demanding. We arrived just on 15.00 to find a family seated at the rear. I took the adjacent table, no point sitting near the door in the middle of winter.

The serving chap wiped our table thoroughly but had to be prompted to bring the Menu. He appeared to have better English than his predecessor. Sometimes I have struggled here to establish exactly what is available, especially in the – Curry of The Day – section.

Two huge pieces of Fried Fish in Breadcrumbs sat in the display cabinet under the counter. Quite a few more would join them during our stay. Four chaps were gainfully employed behind the counter. Marg was intrigued by the chap with the rolling machine which transformed balls of dough into large flat sheets ready to be placed in the adjacent Tandoor.

Fish Karahi at Badsha has been in Hector’s mind since the first visits. As their Karahi are only served by the kilo, sharing is necessary. I was considering ordering the Hirn Karahi (£26.00) on the assumption that this was Fish. Googling – Hirn Fish – gives a rather exotic – Flower Horn Fish – as a result. Hirn, a typo? As I write, I discover that – Hirn – actually translates as – Deer. Imagine ordering a Fish Karahi and receiving Venison? So, who in The Company is up for a share of a kilo of Venison Karahi later this month? We also spotted – Taka Tak – a portion for £8.00. We know this reference from many enjoyable meals at Pak Taka Tak (Athena), but what was this exotic Dish? Offal – apparently.

Marg declared her intention to have Lamb Chops (£7.00), a portion of five was promised. To accompany a Fresh Pakistani Salad (£1.50). Sometimes Salad just comes at Lahori Badsha. This left me with Lamb Curry (£7.50) served on-the-bone, or something from the Curry of The Day list. I decided to go back to basics. Lamb Curry with a Naan (£1.00). Our chap noted the Order with care.

The family behind me had finished and took their leave. Moments later the lady and her elderly mother were back. Mother wanted more, to take away. Two chaps came in to share a kilo of Karahi, Chicken Karahi (£18.00). I must admit that this looked tempting such was the richness of the Masala. OK, I’ll give it a try if anyone is up for it.

Marg’s Chops, Salad and Raita arrived first.

Lamb Chops

The Chops looked well-fired, exactly how we like them. On cutting open the first one, pink Meat was revealed. The Chop was edible, but why take the chance. I took them back up to the counter for further cremation. I do not think – Kebab Chap – was happy. There were no complaints about version #2. Marg devouring five Lamb Chops, what is the World coming too?

A glistening, oval Naan was presented. I had asked for Plain Naan, not the Rogni, but still there was a line of perforations. It’s a Manchester thing. Despite the burnt bits not having formed blisters, this Naan turned out to be excellent. The moistness was retained, no Garlic, and the majority of the Naan had the doughy girth which I prefer.

Lamb Curry

This was Desi Curry, nothing like that served in a Mainstream Restaurant. The standard Toppings of Ginger Strips and Coriander were present, beneath lay a mixture of Masala-proper and an Oily Shorva. Behold, my first – Sucky Bone – of 2022!

Dipping the Naan in the Shorva revealed Spice at a decent level. This was enhanced by sliced Green Chillies in the mix. The Seasoning was a tad on the low side, but there was certainly enough going on here to make this Curry worthwhile. Curry, Hector, remember – Curry? The Naan too was playing its part. The Naan, with the thicker parts of the Masala, was particularly enjoyable. Marg observed how easily the Meat was separating from the bone. Some pieces were – super-soft – the remainder suitably – Tender.

This was back to basics, a simple Desi Curry. I wonder if they’ll do a Fish Karahi?

The Bill

£17.00   Cash Only. The young chap at the till examined my Scottish £20.00 note.

We don’t take these!

Why not? It’s money, I have many different colours of Scottish notes, they’re not all the same like English ones.

On studying the note further he decided to accept it.

It says Sterling – he acknowledged.

It’s strange that when we pay contactless, our Scottish money is never an issue.

The Aftermath

I asked after Zak. Nobody had heard of him, or they weren’t saying.

Zak, how are you?

On our departure I noted that both the other Kabana and Chappati Corner were both shut this Saturday afternoon. Something to note in future. I have also located another Curry Cafe on the other side of Strangeways – Moghul’s Taste.

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Manchester – Kabana – Visit #1 – 2022

The seventh day of 2022, it’s time for some Manchester Curry. Having checked in to the Ancoats Travelodge, it was round the corner to Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1LQ England). Rizwan, Mein Host, hailed us as we stood outside momentarily to take the exterior photo. The sole diner, sitting mid room, was already intrigued. Once we were settled, he acknowledged that we must be well known at Kabana, as he clearly was also. Biryani is his favoured Dish, he managed to get – the dregs – of today’s batch.

For a change, I’ll have the usual – I instructed Rizwan. Marg announced that she too was having Karahi Lamb (£6.00) on-the-bone. Marg would have her customary Chapatti (£0.80) whilst Hector always has Rice (£1.50) with Karahi at Kabana.

In passing, I shall mention that a Nan at Kabana is also (£0.80), a realistic price.

The foliage – was sat on the counter. Rizwan would bring the three pots to the table when our Order was ready.

Karahi Lamb

Marg’s bowl of Karahi arrived first along with her substantial Chapatti. Wholemeal and risen, the debate continues, was this not a Roti?

Marg showed restraint, only a sprinkling of Coriander was added to her Karahi, not a la Hector.

Karahi Lamb with Rice

The naked Karahi on Rice was smothered with sliced Green Chillies, finely chopped Ginger, and a forest of Coriander. Marg thought this was OTT.

I told Rizwan the remark by Mein Host at the Italian we visited in York. It was suggested that he should not charge me for the Spag Bol, but for the added Parmesan.

Karahi Lamb at Kabana, the level of consistency never fails to impress. The small Menu must help here. The usual Rizwan Mountain of food sat before me, a matter of taking one’s time, savour, enjoy, why rush? The thicker element to the Blended Masala sat proudly with the Meat. The Thinner, Oily part of the Masala, was absorbed by the Rice, making the latter better than anywhere else. A Vegetable Biryani, not available, might be the only way to enhance the experience. I picked out a couple of whole Cloves, the Spice which gives Manchester Curry its distinctive Flavour. Rizwan’s Butcher has received many an accolade in Curry-Heute. The Lamb at Kabana falls off the bone, so Tender, so tasty.

No Sucky Bones today, the array was set aside, the Cloves too. Like Cardamom, maybe better not to eat them. The Seasoning was as it has to be. I had altered the Spice Level quite considerably by adding way more Chillies than I would normally have in a Curry. The joy of helping oneself. The crunch from the Ginger added a variation to the Texture. The Ginger and the Coriander added their distinctive Flavours. The Masala, the Rice, the Meat, the Foliage, each playing their part. This was pleasure in the extreme, is it any wonder that Kabana is the first port of call on any trip to Manchester?

Marg’s eating experience was entirely different from mine. For me, this Karahi works best with Rice, not Chapatti, Naan, etc. Chapattis are how Marg has come to eat her Curry unless she knows it’s going to be – Soup:

Wonderful flavours, the rich sauce complemented the tender meat, perfect with a Chapatti.

Maybe Marg should try Rice?

The Bill

£14.30   Easily the best value meal had on this trip.

The Aftermath

Rizwan asked how long we were down. I related the original plan – tomorrow we were due to come back from Paris. Thanks to Omicron, Paris became York and Harrogate. With the accommodation in Manchester booked, and the train home also, here we are.

Rizwan is always impressed by the extent and frequency of our travels. I told him that The Company will be down in ten days. As always, he will recognise the faces. Rizwan suggested he cook something special for us. I pointed to his Board – everything you do is special!

We shall discuss this further in the coming days, however, I have planted the seed for a Fish Karahi.

 

 

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Harrogate – Shalimar – The Story of Two Fat Rascals & Authentic Cuisine

A Happy New Year to all readers of Curry-Heute!

It’s January 6th, and Hector has been eating other cuisine since Hogmanay including bland North African, and Italian, way overpriced for what one receives. The festive season and Marg’s birthday have passed, we are not in Paris as was booked, but in Yorkshire; if it’s Thursday, it must be Harrogate.

Lunch was had at the world famous Bettys Tearoom, an extended birthday treat. The Fat Rascals may be their signature bun, however, they do not match a proper Scottish Fruit Scone with butter, jam and dare I say – cream.

It’s twenty five years since I set foot in Harrogate, then I was searching for a Rooster’s Taproom, no such thing back then. There is now, but Bier has moved on. There had to be Curry-Heute, for this Harrogate was a blank canvas. We’re not far from Bradford, the Curry Capital, but uncomfortably close to Leeds where Hector had his first, shockingly poor, Yorkshire Curry. The Man from Bradford would never forgive me if I had another Curry in L666s.

Harrogate, a very pukka town, has no Curry Cafes, only restaurants. Other sources suggest that Spice Culture may the most popular Curry House in Harrogate. Their menu is decidedly – Mainstream. More study revealed Shalimar (7-11 Cheltenham Parade, Harrogate HG1 1DD England) possibly the best chance of finding a proper – Desi Curry.

On reaching the – Karahi – section of their menu, I was delighted to read the ingredients and note what was – not – included. Shalimar and Hector appeared to be talking the same language.

Then I saw the photo and description for their Special Karahi – Afghani (£11.90) with Lamb served on-the-bone. I also liked the box underneath, too few restaurants are willing to cook to order. If it doesn’t come out The Big Pot, then…

We arrived at Shalimar just on 19.00, the room to the left was remarkably busy, we were shown to the back wall of the room to the right. Business was doing well, diners were sufficiently spaced apart. Note the anomaly: no masks for customers in pubs or restaurants in England. The staff was comprised of four young chaps doing the lifting, and a more mature chap acting as Mein Host.

The menus were brought, a large bottle of Harrogate’s own Sparkling Water (£3.50) kicked things off.

Another young chap came to take the food order. Poppadoms were declined, if they wanted us to have them, Poppadoms and Dips would have already arrived, complimentary, of course. I established that – Peppers – were definitely not part of their Karahi. Onion Naan (£3.25) was something new, it had to be.

Marg decided on Kofte (£10.50) for a change, no Keema. Chappaties (£0.90) would accompany. One Chapatti would suffice, we’re definitely not in Bradford. In the final seconds, as the Order was being taken, I spotted Shab Daig (£11.90).

With Lamb, Kofte and Potato, this could prove to be a wonderful combination. Shab Daig? I looked this up during the wait, slow cooked Lamb, traditionally overnight, ironically in a big pot.

Marg commented upon the fact that our Curry had not just arrived, the wait was appropriate for authentic cuisine.

The Onion Naan was suitably large, oval, so one deduced not from a Tandoor? A bit peely wally, it would do the job. The Red (?) Onions had been sprinkled on top at the point of serving. A Coriander & Chilli Naan this was not. The Chapatti looked to be traditional at first sight, however an air pocket was revealed. Made from Wholemeal Flour, this was the classic scenario of when does a Chapatti start becoming a Roti? Marg confirms that it did go – crispy. A thin Roti?

Afghani Karahi

I knew in an instant that my research had paid off. This Karahi was the bees knees. Ginger Strips and Coriander on top made me feel at home. No way would Hector’s first Curry of 2022 be Meat and Soup, the Minimal Masala was perfect. Counting the Meat in the karahi was not possible, better to count the bones at the end. For the price being charged, this looked good value. Given the temperature of the Karahi, the Meat would have to wait.

Bradford Curry! – was my first utterance. In time this sense would subside, however, that certain flavour which makes a Bradford Curry so distinctive, was certainly present. I always put this down to Herbs, Methi in particular, but this was not mentioned in the description. The Spice was – sharp – enough to take note, not to the detriment of the overall flavour. The Seasoning was up to the required level, well pitched, no issues here. This was a Karahi to savour.

Closer examination of the Masala revealed an abundance of Tomato, and correspondingly more – red – than I would have expected from an Afghan Karahi. Salt/Namkeen/White Karahi, this was not, to be fair, it wasn’t described thus. The sliced Green Chillies were in keeping with the style.

No – Sucky Bones – the Lamb was firm and Tender, as one would associate with Lamb Chops. This was quality Meat. Only four bones appear in the final photo, again reflecting that the portion was certainly enough.

As is my method, I alternated between Naan & Masala and Naan & Lamb, Lamb alone when faced with Meat on-the-bone. This could have been a Karahi as served in one of my favourite Glasgow Curry Cafes. What higher accolade is there?

Shab Daig

With Ginger and Coriander Toppings also, I was keen to see how this differed from the above. The Texture of the Masala was decidedly thinner than the Karahi, no obvious Tomato either. Under the restaurant lights, it also looked to be more brown, but the photos did not capture this.

Meat, Kofta, Potato, I do not believe I have seen this combination anywhere else.

Quite a kick – was Marg’s not unexpected first remark. She had not asked for – mild – tonight, honour restored. One Meatball and plenty of Meat – was Marg’s stock take.

A piece of Potato, infused with Spices, crossed the table. Marg was keen for me to establish the difference. Indeed, this Curry was not just a dressed up variation as I had critically observed in Aberdoom at the end of last year.

I thoroughly enjoyed that – Marg revealed at the conclusion – a good kick on the first mouthful. Plenty of tender meat, and a meatball, added texture and flavour with the absorbent potato.

Indeed, a combination that had to work: Aloo Gosht Kofta. Hopefully we shall see this again.

Two young chaps checked on our progress, polite, never intrusive. The mature chap hadn’t showed at our table. Later, perhaps.

Marg was finished long before me, even allowing for her attempts at sending some of her Meat across the table. Having finished her Chapatti, she helped with the Naan. Somewhere less than a half of the Naan would remain.

The Bill

£31.45   No Extras – was printed beneath the Afghani Karahi, this puzzled. I had failed to notice that Spinach, Mushrooms, Okra or Cauliflower could have been added to the Karahi for an extra £1.00.

The Aftermath

I gave the Calling Card to the young chap who dealt with the payment.

Please give this to your boss.

We sat for a few minutes, nothing. I expected the mature chap, who was clearly front of house, to be over in a flash. Nope.

In time, – the boss – appeared, Umar, phone in hand, with a well known and reliable Curry Blog visible on the screen. He had taken the few minutes to look at Curry-Heute.com. This is what one always hopes for, it happens occasionally. Staff are often too busy or don’t appreciate the moment. Cue the opperchancity to talk – Curry. This is when Hector is in his element.

The efficacy of the Afghani Karahi was established. Umar listed the ingredients, no Red Chilli Powder, and no Peppers, he emphasised the simplicity of this Karahi. I mentioned that too many venues have no idea what this Dish is actually about: either stir fry, Meat & Capsicum, or at worst, both. He agreed that Peppers have no business being in a Karahi.

That each Dish is prepared when ordered was boasted, there is no Base Masala at Shalimar. Fresh ingredients, the best of ingredients, Umar was proud of the quality of his Lamb, no Mutton here. For Marg’s Shab Daig, he mentioned the slow cooking, a feature of this Curry which I had been researching earlier.

That I had presented my Calling Card at the end was appreciated. Hector is a long way from walking into a new venue and declaring his presence.

Ecce, Hector! – I doubt that is ever going to happen.

Talking Curry after a splendid meal, a perfect start to the new year. If I suggest we return to Harrogate, I doubt if Marg will protest. As for the Fat Rascals, we’ve done that.

Menu extracts

 

 

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Home-cooked Curry for Hogmanay in Helensburgh – #2022

Some of our Company described the New Year of 2020 to be – the best ever.

A pity the rest of the year turned to…

New Year – 2021 was definitely the worst with everyone at home. To bring in 2022, it was therefore decided to try and repeat the success of 2020. This saw Lord Clive and Lady Maggie travelling north from Crawley to join Hector, Marg, Howard and Tracey at Steve & Louise’s. Yes, folks, Curry in Helensburgh once again.

Feeding eight, one cannot make a Curry for four, twice. Inevitably, there would be too much food, though being – at home – there should be little wastage.

My Fish ‘Machi’ Masala always goes down well, particularly with the ladies. Creamy Curry, even Hector can bear it once in a while. To accompany, I suggested that Steve did the Bread and I did the Rice. This provided the opperchancity to cook my Spicy Rice which could be regarded as being a few steps short of a Biryani. The published – Spicy Rice Recipe – also happens to cater for eight, a major reason why it is not prepared very often.

The preparation of both the Spicy Rice and the Machi Masala is well documented/illustrated in this Blog.  For the Machi Masala, today’s departure from the recipe was the use of both Frozen Onions and  Red Fried Onions. I kept stirring in more of the latter until I saw the quantity of Masala approaching enough for eight, and the thickness taking on the texture of a Daal. The reasoning behind this was the later addition of the Cream which would thin the Masala. The Spice Level was maintained around – medium – the Seasoning, as Hector defines it should be. Imagine a Fish Curry without Seasoning, as if.

The 1200g of Salmon was cut into bite-size pieces and transported to Helensburgh – raw. Reheating a Fish Curry would have seen the Fish turn to pulp.

The Spicy Rice felt remarkably simple this time around, don’t be surprised if it makes more appearances in future.

I had no idea what Steve was producing. Last time I did a Chicken Korma whilst Steve produced a Lamb Curry. Today he had cooked Chicken Thighs in a rich Masala which equals any of the quality Masalas I have seen in recent weeks.

Machi Masala

The reheat was not as straightforward as hoped. Steve’s new kitchen, of which he is rightly proud, features a ceramic hob. I have cooked with one previously at Carnoustie, I don’t like them, insufficient control. At Hector’s House, one cooks with gas. My large pot did not work on the ceramic hob. Steve offered a replacement. It was he who smelled the burning. On transferring to yet another pot, the burning of the Masala on the base of pot #2 became apparent. It seemed to take an age to get the Masala to a temperature at which I was confident the Salmon would cook. Eventually, all was well, the largest quantity of Machi Masala ever produced by Hector was ready.

Chicken Curry

Steve’s Chicken Curry was in a wok. To this he added water during the reheat, confident that it would evaporate. His Masala needed no reduction, nor did it need thinned. He knew what he was doing. Meanwhile Hector was looking up the price of gas hobs with the aim of recommending one.

Spicy Rice

The Spicy Rice was reheated in batches in the microwave. I had deliberately undercooked it before leaving home, with the assumption that the Basmati would continue to absorb the moisture in transit. Reheating on the hob could have dried it out too much. The microwave was a sound method.

The eight assembled. Poppadoms and Spiced Onions were the amuse bouche whilst the Mains were presented. Once again, Steve’s Spiced Onions impressed.

Now for the quickest of conclusions. There was little point asking for individual comments, they would all have described the same thing. Also, it was 23.55 when we stopped eating, other distractions were then in place. Everyone made the correct and appropriate noises, the standard appreciation when someone has bothered to cook for a dinner party. Marg did comment on the – smokiness – of the Machi Masala. This could have come in part, from the Dried Red Onions, however, I suspect pot #2 may be the real reason.

I thought the Spicy Rice was wonderful. As noted above, this could become the route towards Hector attempting a first Biryani. The Chicken Curry was as good as any of the genre I have experienced. Chicken Thighs, of course, whilst the Masala had pedigree. Steve has been adapting Hector’s Curry Recipes for some two decades.

Happy New Year!

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Aberdeen – Lahore Karahi – Visit #13, A Major Disappointment

Lahore Karahi (145 King St, Aberdeen, AB24 5AE), has been on the list of Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses for many a year. There have been bumps along the road when either the service, or the food, has made me ask – what’s going on here? This evening, I was left to ask the proverbial – wtf?

Our third Curry in Aberdoom in four nights, so far, excellent. And I thought I was keeping the best to last. We arranged to meet Graeme and Euan at 18.30, our first Curry together for two and a half years, a reflection of the time that has been stolen from our lives. Marg and I arrived first, the new signage was recorded, four other diners were in situ.

The new menu was brought, some minor omissions perhaps, the price increases were certainly dramatic. The Mains have gone up by 50%, as have the majority of the Rice Dishes. Beware of the Mushroom Rice (£5.50). No way can this be justifiable. Is there a more expensive Mushroom Rice in the land? I doubt it.

I have had issues with the astronomical price of Bread in Aberdoom Curry Houses in the more than two decades I have been a regular visitor to this city. I have always highlighted that at Lahore Karahi, they kept their Bread prices reined in. No more. Bread prices have doubled, a Tandoori Roti is now £2.95 – wtf?

That is a disgrace – as a certain M.P. is famed for uttering.

Last time we were here, the chaps brought their own bottled Bier, no corkage charge. On hearing the – clink – of glass as they took their seats, I advised them that there is now a £10.00 corkage charge, per table. Euan said he had checked Lahore Karahi’s website before leaving the house. There was no mention of this, he reported. The chaps were not amused. As Marg and I were having our usual Sparkling Water (£2.95), this made for expensive Bier.

I had Fish Curry (£13.95) in mind, a change from Lamb. Previously I have secured worthy Fish Curry, as it comes, and occasionally with Methi, which has been outstanding. Sometimes, Chef has got it totally wrong and served effectively a Machi Palak, not what was asked for. Tonight, I was taking no chances, Fish Curry, no tweaks, plus a Tandoori Naan (£3.50). Marg couldn’t believe it when she declared her intention to have the Fish Curry also. As is her wont, a single Roti would accompany, we’re not in Bradford now.

Euan always takes advice. The first piece was not to order the Peshwari Naan (£4.25), he doesn’t like it. Chicken Bhuna (£11.95) with an accompanying Tandoori Naan ticked his boxes. Graeme chose Achari Chicken (£11.95), again with a Naan. I wonder what the difference is between Achari Chicken and Chicken Achari Balti (£11.95)? The waitress was not for offering any advice here. The first thing she started to write was – Peshwari Naan! Marg asked for – mild – still in fear mode after her last visit to Ambala (Glasgow). For Hector, – medium-plus.

It was 18.47 when the hot plates and food were brought to the table, a bit too quick for my liking. How did Chef manage to produce Curry, Bhuna and Achari in such a short time?

Fish Curry

The waitress announced that Chef had differentiated between the – mild – and the – medium-plus – by the addition of the sliced Bullet Chilli. Both were topped with a sprinkling of Coriander.

When I had this last year as a Takeaway with Mushroom Rice, everything was – as you like it. I did not recognise the Curry at all this evening.

In recent posts I have commented on how sometimes one can tell a quality Masala by its appearance alone. Tonight, the heart sank, I was not looking at a Punjabi Masala. OK, it was blended as Mainstream Curry Houses do, however, the Masala appeared to have an overdose of – pulp. I love Tomato-based Masala, I do not think that was it. Despite having a decent viscosity, the Texture was simply – not appropriate. Mushy rather than being the – Masala Mash – as presented in the Desi Curry Cafes.

A Fish Curry that lacks Seasoning, I report this far too often. At least the Fish did taste as if it had come from the sea, not a freshwater lake. That was it, so correspondingly, the Masala lacked any strength/depth of Flavour. The Spice was there, as asked for, but at the expense of everything else. I regarded this Curry as – shockingly poor. I know what Lahore Karahi are capable of, this was nowhere near it.

Marg was more forgiving:

A dry sauce with plenty Fish, tasty, but I realised the Fish was in batter. Enjoyable, but not the best. I didn’t like the batter.

Yes, why serve /breaded/battered Fish?

The near oval Naans had no pan-handle/teardrop, my favourite bit. If the traditional sponge was used to stick them to the sides of the Tandoor, I would like to have seen it. The required burnt blisters were present, the edges were of a decent thickness, however, I found the Bread to be too dry. This was nowhere near the quality served at Shish Tandoori a few nights back.  The Roti received no comment, Chapattis are preferred.

Achari Chicken

Same topping, same Masala, with added Pickle. I accept that’s how one makes an Achari, what I’m getting at will be made clear below. Graeme’s comment:

It was a Curry. Well cooked chicken, fairly spicy, ok.

Chicken Bhuna

Same topping, same Masala, surely the Bhuna should have looked markedly different? I challenge the Chef to explain why this Masala deserved to be called a  Bhuna?

Euan’s few words:

Enjoyed the Naan, Curry was tasteful.

Let’s be clear, there was nothing – wrong – with the Curry served this evening, most certainly edible, but well short of the standards previously attained. The jury is out for Lahore Karahi.

What’s the story? New Chef? Chef’s night off? New management?

The Bill

£81.15     Including the last Corkage Charge I hope this company shall ever pay.

The Aftermath

The staff appeared to be engrossed with each other as we took our leave.

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Aberdeen – Shri Bheema’s City Centre – Curry for Six, at Seven

Eight years ago, on this exact date, Hector and Marg made the first visit to Shri Bheema’s (15-17 Belmont Street, Aberdeen AB10 1JR), tonight was the second. Their larger premises at Bridge of Don have been celebrated in the subsequent years. This was the intended venue for this evening’s get together, alas, on making the booking, it was confirmed that Shri Bheema’s – Bridge of Don is closed.

Tonight Hector and Marg were joined by Angus and Alison who last dined with us at Ambal’s Restaurant six years ago. Ambal’s has been gone for years, the premises remain, branded but empty. Also present, Kenny, who became a media star when his electricity was off for a week, plus his Lady, who has gone by the moniker – Ms X – in previous posts. Our last Curry outing was also years ago, at Echt Tandoori. A return visit to Echt Tandoori is also overdue, more satisfying (IMHO) than their Aberdeen branch – Wild Ginger – by far. Clearly, there is no truth in the rumour that the People of Aberdoom are lining up to join Hector and Marg for Curry.

The booking was for 19.00, all were punctual. The room was otherwise empty. One couple did take a table opposite, their stay was not as long as ours.

The waiter had little choice but to be patient. The Drinks order was placed, the menus distributed, thereafter little action on the Curry front. There was a lot of catching up, particularly for the three ladies, former school chums.

In the meantime, Hector was studying the Menu, it was the same as that of Shri Bheema’s Bridge of Don, and the prices had not changed since our last visit on December 25, 2019. On that evening, Hector ordered Kanchi Lamb Curry (£18.99) based on what was served to Marg two years previously. I did exactly the same thing again this evening, a Thick Masala with South Indian Flavours is what was anticipated. Marg couldn’t believe when she declared her choice and it matched mine.

But its got Coconut!

I knew this not to be intrusive.

£18.99, a ridiculous price for a Curry, however, it does come with Steamed Rice which, priced at £3.99, is bearable. I know everyone is holding their breath, wondering about the price of a single Chapatti … Chapathi (£2.99), however, the option for a Tandoori Roti (£3.49) remains. Who orders Bread at these prices? Tonight, Kenny and Alison would each order a Naan (£3.99) whilst I insisted that Marg and I share a Paratha (£3.99). Why?

It was on looking back to Visit #1, I realised the misplaced criticism regarding the pale, under-fired Paratha. This was probably my first encounter of the now much sought after – White Paratha. This had to be verified.

Eventually, we were ready to order: Kenny: Prawn Biryani (£14.99), his Lady: Makwali Fish Curry (£13.99) with Coconut Rice (£5.99), Angus: Lamb Shashlik (£12.49) with Pilau Rice (£3.99), Alison: Chicken Korma (£12.49).

More Drinks! I let Marg finish the litre bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.49) and joined the chaps with a Cobra (£4.99) which proved to be 4p cheaper than a Gin & Tonic. Party on!

Hot plates were allocated to Kenny, Alison and Ms X. Chef had other plans for Angus, Marg & I.

Kanchi Lamb Curry

Behold the plate of – Soup! Hector and Marg both ordered this? It’s just as well it came with Rice, Bread alone would have been impossible, we had Bread.

The Paratha was served whole, and it was – White! Layered, with the softest of Flakes, this was it, the Paratha of my dreams. This required a strategy. The Paratha had to be dipped in the Soupy Masala, whilst the Rice would soak up the rest. Adding Rice to Curry always feels bizarre, but that’s what we had to do. Rice, there was so much of it. One bowl between us would have sufficed. Even without the Bread, there was more Rice than one could eat. Between us we left about two thirds of one portion.

As always the first dip of Paratha into the Masala would reveal so much. Topped with Red Chillies, these added more to the underlying – smoky – Flavour. There was Spice, not enough to have Marg make her customary outburst, there was Seasoning, enough to make me take note. This Masala had everything one could hope for, Texture aside. Why so runny?

Earthy – exclaimed Marg from across the table – and I love the Paratha.

The Meat was a fishing expedition. There was no need to decant, though I was tempted to add the mix of Curry & Rice back to the Rice bowl. How else was I meant to count the pieces? It felt as if there was an elegant sufficiency. Tender Lamb, full of Flavour, as with the Lamb Budda at Shish Tandoori two nights ago, Hector was doing well with his choice of Aberdeen Curry this week.

The taste of South Indian Curry is so distinctive, once in a while, it’s a real treat.

Marg: I chose it as it seemed to be an interesting concoction of ingredients, it sounded different. When it arrived it was runnier than expected, but it worked with the big bowl of rice. The meat was tender, the taste was earthy and flavoursome. I really enjoyed the soft Paratha.

The custom in Curry-Heute at this point is to describe the other Dishes around the table then obtain a few words from my fellow diners. Alas, such was the intensity of the catching up, Hector failed to butt in, however one sentence was secured from the unlikeliest source.

Lamb Shashlik

Not a Curry, but a Lamb Kebap topped with Syboes with an accompanying Salad. The Red Sauce is something Hector has learned to avoid. Too often straight from a bottle, Chilli Sauce tends to be as Sweet as it is Spicy. Angus had ordered Pilau Rice when Bread would have been the logical accompaniment. However, he and Alison were sharing the Rice and a Naan.

Angus did express his pleasure immediately, he had chosen something to his taste. Thereafter it a matter of clearing the plate, which he did, though half the Pilau Rice was left over.

*

Makwali Fish Curry

The last time I saw this Curry at Shri Bheema’s Bridge of Don, it was – green. Tonight’s version does look a bit more appealing despite the obvious – Soupiness. Whilst a – Dry Curry – is always seen as being the optimum, when a Masala has intense Flavour, all can be forgiven.

Described as being – sweet – five years ago, tonight’s looked closer to a Chettinad with the Dark Red Dry Chilli on top. It was Judith who had ordered it, for the first time she is named and her image appears in Curry-Heute.

Judith: My Fish Curry was vert tasty, rice was ni*e but I’m still not sure which one I had.

Indeed, Judith and Angus had the Pilau and Coconut Rice before them, neither could establish which was which.

 

*

*

Chicken Korma

This Curry last featured in March, 2015 when five of Marg’s hockey players ordered it. Chicken Korma is Chicken Korma. It’s for those who like a mild, Creamy Curry, a safe bet, never demanding, but it doesn’t have to be. I have served this on demand with extra Green Chillies to up the Spice Level.

Prawn Biryani

This was the proverbial mountain of Rice accompanied by two small bowls of sauce, a Raita and presumably a Masala. I would have expected, and have confirmed, the serving of much more Masala as Marg and I did recently at the Sheesh Mahal (Bradford).

This seemed a strange choice by Kenny who ate the more – interesting – elements and left half the Rice.

Of the five bowls of Rice on the table, none were finished. There is a physical limit as to how much Rice a person can eat. At the end of our meal, the table resembled a European Curry House with leftover Rice everywhere.

Tea and Coffee followed, for some. It was after 21.00 when all was done. A different evening in many ways.

The Bill

£167.43   Drinks, various, accounted for about £50.00 of this.

The Aftermath

Mein Host this evening did remark that it had been five or six years since I was last at these premises.

Actually, it’s eight – I was able to confirm.

I had to enquire about Bridge of Don. They clearly still have the option to reopen but recent events have thwarted this. I also asked about their Edinburgh branch on Nicolson Street, it closed a couple of years back.

Nicolson Street? This is Curry Central in the Capital. I suspect the long established Tanjore serve pretty much the same as Shri Bheema’s.

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Aberdeen (Bridge of Don) – Shish Tandoori – Somewhere & Something New

At the start of November, Curryspondent Archie headed to Bridge of Don on my recommendation, the objective was Shri Bheema’s, however, his taxi driver dropped him prematurely at Shish Tandoori (9 Ellon Rd, Bridge of Don, Aberdeen AB23 8EB). Archie’s reports were favourable, meanwhile it appears that this branch of Shri Bheema’s has gone. More on this on Boxing Day. Yes, the reward for being Chef tomorrow, is an abundance of Curry either side of the festive day chosen to mark the winter solstice.

We took a chance and turned up at 19.00 without having phoned to check there was space. Around a dozen customers were present, scattered across the restaurant which occupies part of the building which makes up The Brig Inn, also a hotel. I/we didn’t know this, yet we have passed this building oft on our way to Shri Bheema’s.

A young waiter brought the menu then returned soon after, keen to take the drinks order. Only 330ml bottles (£2.30) of Sparkling Water were available – two please.

We took our time studying the menu, such were the number of Dishes featuring – peppers – I wondered why I had come. Marg found Lamb Balti (£10.95) on a page I had bypassed. She declared her intention to have Rice. I got to suggest Mushroom Rice (£3.95). Under – Something New – were two Dishes which did not mention – peppers. In this section, Lamb Curry, various, was £11.25. Ghaly Masala featured Cashew Nuts and Coconut yet had a three Chilli rating. Was this in effect a Spicy Korma? I would ask. Lamb Budda featured a rich sauce and vintage port. In what way was this sauce – richer – than any other on the menu?

The waiter was not ready for my interrogation. On mentioning Ghaly Masala, he started writing this down. I had to stop him and ask again what sort of Masala this was. He went off to consult and returned with – creamy. Strike one. On enquiring about the – rich sauce – in the Lamb Budda, he told me the Lamb had been cooked in the sauce. Well I bloody well hope so – is the phrase which was withheld. Hector was firmly back in the land of the – Mainstream – no – Desi – here. In time the word – thick – was used to describe the sauce, but only after I had introduced – Soupy – as a possible description. Lamb Budda it would be – without peppers – in either Curry.  I did have Achari Balti (£11.25) as a fallback, even though this was from the – Tikka – section of the menu.

There was no Coriander Naan on the menu. Given that I would be sharing, I stopped short of asking for Chilli & Coriander. The waiter took this in his stride. A Garlic Chilli Naan (£4.25) was my guide to pricing. Cue a rant later, possibly, about the price of Bread in Aberdoom. No, I’ll start already, £2.95 for one Tandoori Chapati, these chaps have to go to Bradford, i.e. – the real world.

Whilst I waited for people to depart in order to secure photos of the layout of the restaurant, Marg became concerned that the family behind me had not received their food. We heard an apology for the delay and the offer of complimentary drinks. Marg then realised that she recognised the mother. This was Fiona, daughter of Dr. Alasdair, who has featured oft in these pages. As Marg went over to renew the acquaintance, so I found the post from xmas 2016 when I cooked Curry for the people of Carnoustie and Fiona in turn cooked a Spicy Korma.

At 19.30, hot plates were brought to the table. Later, two more bottles of Sparkling Water were brought. On pointing out that we hadn’t ordered these, the waiter returned to confirm – on the house. ‘Tis the season to be jolly, allegedly.

Mein Host, Joe, brought the Order, we had picked his name up already.

The Mushroom Rice was enough to share, just. With Spices mixed through along with Coriander Stems, this was quite a complex affair. Marg would later comment on the Flavours from the Rice, whilst I assured myself the Mushrooms were not tinned. 

The Coriander Naan was a joy to behold. At last, Hector was presented with a Teardrop Naan, one that had seen a Tandoor. Served whole and suitably – Thick – puffy, with burnt blisters, this was the closest to the idyll I have seen in yonks. It was topped with Coriander leaves and stems only, Chef had kept the Garlic well away. No needless buttery sheen here. It was a bit on the small side, such that every piece would be eaten. This Naan had the doughiness which I prefer, Marg still managed to enjoy the thinner interior.

Lamb Budda

As I intrinsically knew when I saw the Masala in the Lamb Curry at The Mosque Kitchen (Edinburgh) earlier this week, the – rich sauce – here oozed quality. This was a cut above the standard Mainstream Blended Masala. I counted the Meat into double figures as I decanted. Most of the Lamb would subsequently be halved, a decent portion. Two wedges of Tomato had been introduced near the point of serving. I always enjoy half-cooked Tomatoes.

On tearing off the pointy bit, my favourite part of the Naan, and dipping it into the leftover Masala, I was instantly impressed. Not quite – Desi Flavours – but still an excellent depth, way beyond what I had expected at the point of ordering. This was decidedly – Mainstream plus.

The Lamb Budda has a two Chilli rating – Madras – was given in the guide elsewhere on the menu. I would call it a – Medium – Spice Level, never challenging, enough to know it was – Indian Fayre. With the amount of Flavour present, there was really no need for more heat, however, had I ordered Chilli on my Naan, well who knows? As we shall see, Marg did alter the Spice Level of my Curry. The Seasoning was as I hope for, not what usually comes. Lamb Budda, so far so good.

The Lamb was very well cooked, somewhere between Tender and Soft. The – Earthy Flavours – emanating from the Meat were markedly different from those in the Masala. So, what did the waiter know? Whatever, the Flavours from the Lamb complemented those of the Masala. Ah, the Port! I hadn’t tasted anything to suggest that alcohol had been added. Had Chef stirred the Port into the Lamb as he assembled the Dish? Lamb Budda, excellent!

Lamb Balti

The Masala here was decidedly paler than the above, but had the same blended consistency. Sliced Green Chillies had been stirred in, pieces of which merrily crossed the table. Merrily? Calm, Hector, you’ll be using – joyful – and – triumphant – next. I took a Soupçon of the Masala for comparison purposes.

Sweeter, and with a hint of Pickle – I said to Marg as I realised that these two parameters were contradictory. This was clearly a unique interpretation of – Balti.

Marg – Tender lamb in a thick masala, a good hint of pickle. It went well with with the Mushroom Rice which seemed to offer more than …. just being Rice. A very enjoyable meal.

Every grain of Rice was eaten, the entire Naan too, which is unheard of. Plates were wiped clean. Joe came over to join us on seeing we were finished. He apologised for the wait, the Complimentary Drinks were a consequence of this, a large Takeaway had delayed matters. Here was the opperchancity to introduce Curry-Heute. I congratulated Joe on the quality of his Curry. That we knew Fiona and family was revealed. Indeed the next couple to depart made a point of chatting also, Shish Tandoori has its enthusiastic regulars.

The Bill

£34.25 I noted the Coriander Naan had been charged at the price of a Plain Naan (£3.50).

The Aftermath

Mein Host offered us Liqueurs, graciously declined, who drinks alcohol at this time of year? He went on to describe the composition of the premises: restaurant, bar and hotel and that he has been here for seventeen years. He will have a full house tomorrow, even allowing for some late minute cancellations. Shish Tandoori was described as being part of a village community, indeed, they have seen off the local competition with Shri Bheema having retreated to their original premises on Belmont Street in the heart of Aberdeen.

Our attention returned to Fiona et al. They described Shish Tandoori as being their favourite Aberdeen Curry House. Echt Tandoori they have been out to and enjoyed, also, Lochnagar Indian Brasserie (Ballater) comes highly recommended. That is one for a summer’s evening. Bring on the next solstice.

Menu extracts

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Edinburgh – Mosque Kitchen – I’ll be back, asap!

Mosque Kitchen (31-33 Nicolson Square, Edinburgh EH8 9BX) lies opposite the venerable Kebab Mahal and has been on the radar for some time. Marg and Hector popped in to the Mosque Kitchen for a wee shufti on our last visit to Nicolson Square, then continued to Kebab Mahal as planned. Having looked at other sources, the Lamb Curry showed potential, today was the day to establish if a picture can paint a thousand flavours.

Some of – The Company – meet regularly on Wednesdays in Edinburgh. The availability of a super-offpeak return on the train, at a bit over £6.00 return, has made regular journeys through to the East viable.

I arrived at 14.20, there were only a handful of customers in this somewhat large Curry Cafe. In the Manchester style, the fayre was on display in food pans, ready to serve. The Village (Glasgow) is considering setting up something similar, that would be a first in the West.

As is the Curry-Heute tradition, Chicken Curry was dismissed as its efficacy remains unconvincing. This left Lamb Curry & Rice (£8.00) or Lamb Rogan Josh & Rice (£8.50). The latter was alarmingly – red. The combination of Lamb Curry & Veg Curry with Rice (£8.50) is one for the future. Manchester’s – Rice & Three – has not reached these parts.

As I surveyed the spread, so a chap led the way. Had there been a crowd it would have felt like – school dinners. My plate was filled with a generous helping of Pilau Rice, the Meat and Masala was then spread on top. One pays at the end of the display.

The Bill

£8.00   A fridge with drinks sits adjacent to the till. As I saw no glasses/cups, I purchased no drink.  One never drinks from a can/bottle.

Lamb Curry & Rice

It was the Masala which brought me here, it has that – special – appearance which I shall describe as possessing an – oily porosity. A hint of something herb-like sat to one side of the plate where the Masala had run free. The Rice featured Seeds, I hoped for Cumin, but no telltale blast was forthcoming. Seven large pieces of Meat, school dinners came to mind once more. I thought back to a certain lady who would count the chips in the scoop as she served them, shaking off what she regarded as too many. Each piece of Lamb would be halved, I had no issues therefore with the portion size vis a vis the price.

I started with Masala and Rice, crucially, the first sample reveals all. One visits new venues in the hope that something outstanding will be encountered. These moments are rare.

Whatever it is that makes a Curry stand out out from the Mainstream, the distinctive – Desi taste, here it was. Magnificent! The Spice warmed the mouth, the level of heat would grow, steadily, but not to a level which should cause anyone discomfort. The Flavours were delightfully complex, no single Spice stood out.  Thanks to the perfect level of Seasoning, they continued to give the anticipated pleasure. I spotted a solitary, whole Black Peppercorn; the Seeds in the Rice remained unknown. And this was just the Masala.  Somehow, its appearance made me know what to expect.

The Lamb varied for Tender to super-Soft. The Meat was giving off both the Flavour of the Lamb itself and the Spices in which it had been sat. This was another measure of the quality present here, a proper – Curry.

Meat and Masala with Rice, the Classic Curry, yet I still prefer an Interesting Vegetable to accompany. I shall discover how this works in future visits.

For once I could have done with more Masala, such was the quantity of Rice. I noted that the Curry here is all cooked in Olive Oil. Could that be another secret to achieving this level of Flavour?

Two chaps sat on the far end of the table, I waited until they departed and took the photo across Nicolson Square. It could be some time before I return to the impressive Kebab Mahal. Mosque Kitchen will certainly become my next – Edinburgh project.

The Aftermath

I took a Calling Card to the serving area where two chaps were sat waiting for their next customers. The chap who took it look puzzled, but did give me permission to take the required photos.

Nicolson Square has Mosque Kitchen and Kebab Mahal, whilst a couple of minutes away lies Tanjore – South Indian Restaurant which first brought me to the university area of the city. There’s also the matter of – The Original Mosque Kitchen – which lies west of Nicolson Square. Edinburgh Curry is looking up, for decades there was little to excite.

Hopefully, I’ll be back early in the New Year, unless of course today was my last visit to Edinburgh for the the next six months. I remain to be convinced that Omicron justifies the threatened/potential restrictions.

2021 Menu

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