Sheffield – 7 Spices Balti – The Last Supper?

Posted on May 28, 2021 by Hector

… or a tale of two waiters

Lord Clive of Crawley on a visit to Sheffield, once texted Hector looking for advice on where to have Curry. Curry-Heute, that well known and reliable website had none. B.C-H. there were two venues, long gone, which were visited oft. The venues covered in Curry-Heute have therefore only been visited since 2016. No sooner was the excellent Lahori Dhera Grill & Steakhouse discovered when it closed. Apna Style, found in 2018, is currently the only known outlet for Desi Curry, but try getting a posse to the hinterland of Bramall Lane. The ladies like ambience, Apna Style is a classic Curry Cafe. 7 Spices Balti (Mayfair Court, 120 Gibraltar St., Sheffield S3 8PP England) has been therefore the most visited venue, primarily due to its location on the edge of Kelham Island, i.e. Bierland. The coverage of Curry Houses in Sheffield remains limited, after this evening, this may well change.

Marg popped in to 7 Spices Balti around 17.00 to check they could take a party of up to six at 19.00, with the proviso that two could be late. Not a problem. After two hours in the surprisingly disappointing Shakespeares, or is it Shakespeare’s, their staff don’t know either, four of us walked the few metres back to 7 Spices Balti. The chap who greeted, I shall hitherto refer to as waiter #1, tried to give us a table to the left with two bench seats. For six? No way. He showed us to a much more spacious set up at the window to the right. Much better.

Six? In addition to Hector, Marg and Clive, the trek now features Howard. Kirstie and Simon were making a guest appearance but were stuck in traffic. Other than photos to prove they did make it, I have not included their Order, separate Bill, and too far to reach across the table.

The party of four were left to give time for the missing two. Having given the assurance that we would be six, it was agreed that the four should order. This satisfied waiter #1 pro tem. That he then tried to move us to a smaller table did not go down well. We had booked for six, we would be six. The restaurant was far from full.

Portions at 7 Spices Balti typically resemble what used to be called – London Portions – i.e. – small. Lamb Chops (£4.55) were mooted by Hector. Marg, with Clive as her ally announced the intention to have Poppadoms.

The Menu clearly states Spiced Popadoms 0.80. Waiter #1 informed us this meant one. Quote – a misprint. Can a business do this? It is written, plural! Score out the – s!

How many Chops are there in Lamb Chops then, one? – I had to ask.

I was assured it would be three, or four. That’s a 33.3% error margin.

Marg could sense my level of annoyance, I hope this comes across.

Four Poppadoms were ordered. (£3.20).

That the Pickle Tray was another £2.50 just makes matters worse. My thoughts about Poppadoms and Dips are well recorded, this is just ripping off the public.

In addition to his Poppadoms, Clive sought a Seekh Kebab (£4.20), and Howard the Fish Pakora (£4.50). Howard was in the mood for Fish tonight, and so was Hector.

Karahi Fish (£9.95) would be an alternative to the Masala Fish Handi (£9.95). Back in 2017, I described this as being amongst the best “Fish Karahi” I have ever tasted. Marg had the Handi last year, but it didn’t taste of Fish. Tonight would be the decider. Howard would have the same, had he gone for the Handi one of us would have suffered knowing he had ordered the wrong Curry. This way, we would both win or both lose.

The Menu listed the ingredients of the Fish Karahi, Cod, at least we would know the type of Fish for a change. Capsicum was not mentioned, I was taking no chances. Waiter #1 admitted they would be present. Why?

They would be withheld, from both portions of Fish Karahi.

After her very sweet Murgh Makhani in Peterborough, Marg was back on form: Karahi Keema Mutter (£8.95). Having read the lengthy Menu to Clive, he opted for Achari Lamb Handi (£9.95), the only Curry which did mention – green peppers – as being present.

The Bread order was varied: a Chapatti (£1.25) for Marg, Plain Paratha (£?), still not on the Menu but enjoyed on previous visits for Hector, a Garlic & Coriander Naan (£3.30) for Howard, and of course, a Keema Naan (£3.50) for Clive.

Keema Naan with Fish? I have already pointed out this incongruity to Clive, tonight he ignored me. So it goes.

The Poppadoms were the type commonly served in Europe, the tasty ones with Cumin Seeds. However, look at the way they are folded, this is nonsense. Tiny, gone in seconds.

Kirstie and Simon arrived, they sorted a much needed drinks order and stuck to Mains. We would have these together.

Seekh Kebab

The Seekh Kebabs were a pair, worth pointing this out, and looked well cooked.

Fish Pakora

Howard ate his Fish Pakora in silence, we both knew the score here.

Bland, six or seven pieces – was Howard’s description – nobody can do Fish Pakora like Yadgar.

On this, we are one.

Lamb Chops

The three good sized Lamb Chops were decidedly under-fired, whereas the Onions were getting there. They were cooked through but did not have the customary burnt extremities, as a result, the bite was not there.

It is time to mention waiter #2, this chap was making good connections as he presented the food, reminiscent of the chap who was here on our earliest visits. As he watched me photograph everything so it became clear he wanted in on the act. Hector is always happy to oblige.

Four different Bread types had been ordered, guess who received the only one which was not served whole? The Paratha had been needlessly quartered, but at least did live up to expectations. Served piping hot, the required layering and flakiness was present.

The folded Chapatti looked kind of insignificant compared to the round Keema Naan and Garlic & Coriander Naan. I didn’t manage to check the interior of the Keema Naan to check if the Mince was cooked in the preferred grains or the less than satisfactory slab of pink meat.

Fish Karahi

There was visibly more Masala than solids. As I got underway, waiter #1 was back to enquire:

Did you find any green peppers?

No – was the accurate reply.

I’m still looking for the Fish – is the reply that I managed to withhold else Marg’s night out may well have been ruined. I know the portions here are comparatively small, more Cod required. As it happens, I found two slivers of Capsicum, one yellow, one red. Howard managed to escape the dreaded mush.

The Curry was again served hot which is always a plus when six Mains are to be presented. The Spice Level was reasonable, however the Seasoning was well below what one expects. Where was the blast of Flavour from the Fish? This was essentially a repeat of last year. The Fish Karahi was enjoyable, but could have been so much more, once upon a time it was.

Howard had the same Curry and hence the same experience:

First impression was the sauce was an odd consistency. The fish portion was small, there was little in the way of flavour. The only element of flavour I got was spice, and indeed, overall, the main tastes I got was from the Naan.

Achari Lamb Handi

When placed on the table, this had the makings of a worthwhile Curry. The ratio of solids to Masala looked favourable, the Oil was separating from the Masala, Hector would have been happy to dive in here.

Once Marg had decanted a sufficiency to Clive’s plate then the full horror story was revealed. Just how much Red Capsicum could Chef get away with? Clive does not share my abhorrence and ate the lot.

Saucy, but not soup – he began – it just needed to be bigger.

Karahi Keema Mutter

Served on the wet side compared to Hector, and Marg’s favourite sources for this Curry, I took all of the protrusions to be Peas initially, then again, all was revealed. Marg has drawn the short straw on so many occasions. If there is one thing, or two things which spoil Marg’s enjoyment it’s Big Blobs of Onion and Big Blobs of Capsicum. What were these even doing in this Dish?

Ballast! Capsicum is cheap, Meat is expensive. The portions this evening were universally – small – and here they were creating the illusion of something substantial. Marg set aside the unwanted and unnecessary Ballast, I believe the photo says it all.

The Bill

£76.50   The tip was modest, to match the portions.

The Aftermath

There were many empty tables when the six of us departed in unison, so why the fuss earlier?

It must be time to try other venues.  Spice Hut looks interesting but as with Apna Style, it’s out of town.

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Peterborough – Lahore Tandoori Restaurant – This is The Place for Curry in Peterborough

Posted on May 26, 2021 by Hector

Hector and Marg are journeying north with the intention of stopping off for Bier and Curry in favourite places that have been off limits for the best part of a year. Lord Clive of Crawley has joined the trek, others will join in the following days.

Sometimes taxi drivers give good advice. Back in August 2018, en route to the then favoured Desi Restaurant, our driver insisted that Lahore Tandoori Restaurant (539A Lincoln Rd., Peterborough PE1 2PB England) a couple of blocks further north, was the best place in town. The standard of Curry in Peterborough has impressed over the years, there has been the occasional disappointment. Having studied other sources, the word, is, one should ignore the run of the mill Curry Dishes on the Menu and go straight for the Lahori Desi Balti.

Given that an hour’s notice is required for the kilo of Lahori Desi Balti (£21.95) to be prepared, this was phoned in ahead of our intended 19.00 arrival. That we would be three diners only made the chap on the phone take note, especially when I said my wife would be ordering something from the Menu on our arrival. As the Desi Balti would be served on-the-bone, the kilo should not be onerous for Clive and Hector.

Greetings to Mein Host complete, we took a table at the rear of the restaurant. One other table would be occupied throughout our stay, the diners were concentrating on Grills.

Marg was attracted by the Murgh Makhani £6.95), she thought it sounded exotic. When Hector sees – Makhani – the thought of the complex Daal comes to mind. Alas, Murgh Makhani is Butter Chicken in normal parlance. Butter Chicken (£6.95) was also in the Chef’s Specials, it had Almonds and Coconut, the Makhani clearly focuses on the Butter.

A Tandoori Roti (£0.95) would be Marg’s accompaniment, for Hector a Paratha (£2.25). A Keema Paratha (£2.50) completed the food order. Try keeping Clive away from Keema Naan/Paratha. A Mango Rubicon (£1.50) was added, thereafter, tap water.

I had time to take the customary photos and attempt to capture the atmosphere of the venue and its décor. Informal, despite the table cloths, and large enough to hold some thirty odd diners on a busy night.

The wait felt appropriate for the Order. When the Lahori Desi Balti was placed on the table, I knew we had a winner. Decanting would be necessary, the hot plates were appreciated.

A Salad was presented just before the Breads. The Tandoori Roti was substantial, the Paratha was served in quarters. Whilst this always annoys, the Quality made up for the Bread Chef’s keenness with his knife. Layered, flaky and Buttery, a fine Paratha.

The Keema Paratha also impressed. On opening one quarter, individual grains of Mince were visible, unlike its counterpart in Shoreham a couple of nights previously.

*

Lahori Desi Balti

The size of the portion blew me away as did the sheer magnificence of the quality of the Masala. This was it, the Desi Karahi that Hector travels the land to experience. The Oil was separating, one instinctively knew that this was going to be a very special moment.

It was the big Yoghurt hit that came across instantly, a first, then the significant Spice hit. The Seasoning, oh yes, this was everything the Hector desires.

Sucky Bones, so Soft Meat, melt in the mouth, and the richness of the Flavours. Where do these Flavours come from? I have the same Spices in my cupboard at home no doubt, just what is the difference?

An extra sauce was provided, this I recognised immediately, the recipe has been in these pages for years as – Pakora Sauce 2.  I have never made it, for reasons that should be apparent if you use the link. 

Every mouthful was a moment of joy, the Traditional and Mainstream Curry had on this trip previously was blown away, for Hector this is what it’s all about.  Mmmmm.

Clive added a few words, a disagreement also:

The lamb could have been more melt in the mouth, hardly a criticism, it was bloody good.

Even Marg got in on the act, too Spicy for her of course, but it was good that she shared some of the pleasure that her fellow diners were enjoying.

Murgh Makhani

Yellow and Creamy with Chicken Tikka one presumes, Marg keeps opting for this style of Curry which is an anathema for Hector. A blob of Butter is visible, this took Marg by surprise somewhat.

Sweet – said Marg – but that was expected.

Well. Of course it was.

Throughout our time of eating, Mein Host, Zahir, checked regularly that we were fine. The level of pleasure that the Lahori Desi Balti was giving was noted. That the karahi was rapidly approaching – empty – may well have impressed, he acknowledged that we knew what we were about. Zahir took on even more interest when the Calling Card was given. That we were in Peterborough, specifically to visit his restaurant was appreciated.

The Bill

£36.10  There was no card machine, however, Zahir had some other payment scheme in place which involved email. Marg paid in cash.

The Aftermath

There had to be a photo, in fact many were taken. Hopefully we have Zahir’s good side.

Menu

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London – The India Club – at The Hotel Strand Continental

Posted on May 25, 2021 by Hector

The CAN Project – performance at the Barbican was four years ago, where does time go? Having met Marg off the train from Glasgow at Euston with Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley, Curry for lunch was the plan. In memory of all things CAN related, due reverence was made to the Theatre Royal – Drury Lane – where CAN performed, supported by Terje Rypdal, back in November 1975. That was a lifetime ago.

We walked to The India Club (Hotel Strand Continental, 143 Strand, London WC2R 1JA), Hector’s third visit, Marg’s second and the first for our Crawley hosts. As we climbed the stairs to the second floor, I promised them something different. The diners were all spaced out as are the present demands on social distancing. We were given the corner table where I sat on my first visit with Jim and Jonathan back in 2016.

The Menu was on the table but covered in polythene, one way of preventing people handling it. There were three Lamb Dishes to choose from, the Bhuna Lamb I had on Visit #1. In keeping with my present enjoyment of things – Traditional – I opted for South Indian Lamb Curry (£9.80) as did Clive and Maggie. Marg chose the Bhuna Lamb (£9.90) but only after the waiter verified that the – capsicum – garnish would be withheld. Having ordered Curry, the three of us ordered Pilau Rice (£3.50) to accompany, Marg stuck to Chapattis (£3.00). One Chapatti does Marg, this would be a treat, but why was it necessary to order in pairs?

I did advise Clive and Maggie that as I would only be photographing one South Indian Lamb Curry, theirs couldn’t possibly taste as good as mine.

Clive required Bier, a pint of Cobra (£5.00) would satisfy his need. A large bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.50) for Marg and Hector, and a small bottle of Still Water for Maggie (£2.00) completed the Order. Over a tenner for drinks, at lunchtime? This was indulgence.

There was a sufficient number of diners such that photographing the interior would have been intrusive. Instead, I had to settle for the rooms on the floor beneath. The Menu is there, I have never seen anyone eat in the lounge.

The aroma of Cloves was powerful as the Rice was placed on the table. Seeds, which I initially took to be Cumin were stirred through, however, as the telltale – liquorice – was not revealed, I then took these to be Fenugreek, Methi, Man! The Rice portion just about covered the plate. The two Chapattis were ample, perhaps this is the better deal?

South Indian Lamb Curry

The portions do look to be tiny, however, the bowls are almost deceptive. As I decanted the small cut pieces of Meat, I did reach double figures, so enough then, just. One is never going to get fat dining here, note to self, order a Starter next time.

There was a blast of Cinnamon, Green Cardamom were encountered, fortunately before they were taken in. The Masala may have been Shorva-esque, but such was the ratio of Meat to Masala, this was not a Soupy Curry. The Meat was beautifully Tender and required minimal chewing. I still cannot work out what happened last night in Shoreham.

The Flavours were amazing, Maggie was quick to react when she started eating, Clive also made positive noises.

Maggie:

The portion was perfect, not too much. You could taste the cardamom, and spices, cinnamon, tomato, not overwhelming. The rice was seasoned.

Clive:

Best of the last three days. Yesterday’s portion would have been ideal. I could have done with a bit more of that.

A traditional Indian Curry, far superior to the vast majority of Curry Houses in the UK.

Bhuna Lamb – **Chef Special**

When Hector saw this, he wanted it. On another day, a second Curry may well have been ordered. The Thickness of the Masala was so inviting. Why would Chef want to ruin this Curry by covering it in Capsicum?

Marg:

Minimal sauce, but loads of small, tender, delicious pieces of lamb. The meat complemented the chapatti with the rich masala taste. I could have eaten it all again, it was so tasty.

So, three out of four were left wanting more. The portions could be considered as – Tapas+.  A two Curry, two Chapatti option may be considered next time.

The Bill

£63.60 The drinks inflated the total, but still, not a lot of food for the price.

The Aftermath

There were no staff present to thank, a quiet withdrawal. And so to Hackney Wick for a wee howl at a hop. 

2021 Menu

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Shoreham-by-Sea – The Indian Cottage Tandoori

Posted on May 24, 2021 by Hector

In the beginning there was no Curry-Heute – B.C-H. Unsurprisingly, at the beginning of Curry-Heute there were damn few Blog entries. In the first weeks, Hector was scrambling to fill some pages, a day out on the South Coast found Hector in Shoreham-by-Sea. On encountering The Indian Cottage Tandoori (74, 76 High St., Shoreham-by-Sea, England BN43 5BD) the interior, at least of this Tudor (?) building had to be investigated. No Curry was had, and only one photo was secured of the historical interior, today this was rectified.

Lady Maggie of Crawley was happy to drive Lord Clive and Hector to this coastal town, Curry was the primary purpose of the venture.

We entered at 19.00, Hector’s DNA was deposited on the unexpectedly low door lintel, Maggie was on hand with tissues to mop up the blood. Composure regained, we stood in the first room waiting to be seated. A couple were dining here, there was seemingly no awareness by the staff of our presence. In time we were greeted and shown to a table in the same room. With so many rooms available, I had to wonder why we were sat at the locus which would partially block access to the labyrinth for other diners. The couple soon finished and were off, so method perhaps. Hector was immediately at their table to study the leftovers, Thick, Creamy Masalas, so be it.

I reminded Maggie that according to a well known and reliable Curry Blog, if she ordered a Starter she would never finish her Main Course. Maggie and Clive therefore limited themselves to Poppadoms. Hector refused, once again, to play this game.

Maggie was drawn to the – Khori Dishes – which feature – fried capsicum – and – is served on a sizzling dish. Sadly this would be a Mainstream interpretation of Hector’s favourite Karahi. A – stir-fry – is far from authentic, therefore Maggie agreed this should be dismissed.

Butter Chicken (£7.25) for Maggie and Lamb Tikka Dansak (£8.45) for Clive who said he had never had one with – Tikka Lamb. The opperchancity of having a Herb-rich Curry with a Masala was to be realised. Balti Lamb Almashriqi (topped with spinach) (£10.75) had to be Hector’s choice. I asked the waiter about the Masala. He admitted that this would be copious, – less Masala – was therefore agreed upon.

All three Dishes came with the choice of Rice or Naan, we each ordered the Pilau, but Clive desired a Bread: Keema Naan (£2.25). Hector was not missing out on Sparkling Water. A large bottle (£3.75) was added to the Order along with a small bottle of Still (£1.95) and a can of a well known soft drink (£1.95).

The Pickle Tray arrived with two Poppadoms, whilst those who would, indulged, here was Hector’s time to tour these magnificent premises.

Lamb Tikka Dansak

The Meat sat in a Thick, Lentil-rich Masala. This is a Curry which Hector has tried to produce but has failed to attain the standard hoped for. Many a Dhansak has been witnessed in the company of Clive for whom this is his fallback Curry. Clive’s verdict on any Dhansak is therefore reliable:

… pretty happy with mine, the level of spice was about right, the meat was amazingly tender, portion was excellent. That was a very good Dhansak.

*

The Keema Naan was modest in size and had a strange redness protruding. The puffy edges impressed, as a Plain Naan I would have been happy with this, however, Hector the Inspector demanded that Clive reveal the interior. Aha! Behold the layered Meat which is more associated with a Donner than Keema. Individual grains of Mince is how the best Keema Naans are served, this was overkill.

Butter Chicken

As Butter Chicken Curry goes, this looked to be the part. The Masala had a decent viscosity and was suitably creamy. Those who order such a Curry are definitely hiding from anything more challenging, but as Maggie revealed from the start, she had higher expectations:

No spices were harmed in the making of this – a line used by Clive on more than one occasion, and most recently in Berlin last year – I like my nose to run a wee bit.

(Yvonne’s nose doesn’t run when she eats Curry, allegedly.)

The portion size was excellent, rice came with it, because of that the plain basmati was a bit bland. Big chunks of skewered chicken, tender, said it was medium, but no spices harmed…

Balti Lamb Almashriqi

This was different. Slices of cooked Tomato sat atop a massive layer of Spinach. This I have never encountered before. How far was this was from a Saag/Palak? Realistically, this would have been right up Hector’s street, a definite case of Masala with Spinach. The Masala, well hidden initially, was Thick with the Creaminess I had now come to accept is a feature of this venue. I decanted a mass of Meat, Masala and Spinach on top of the Rice. The portion size of the Rice was well judged, a plateful, no more required. The size of the Curry portion was then fully realised, this was a lot of Curry for one’s Pound.

The food was not – hot – and so given the enforced slow pace of eating spelled disappointment towards the end when all would be cold. For once I missed the candle-lit heaters. There was a hint of Sweetness in the Creamy Masala, but this should surely be tempered by the bitterness from the Spinach? The Spinach turned out to be no more than boiled, this had not been prepared a la Hector’s recipe for Palak. I had my Herb, I did not have a Spice-infused Herb. Overall, the level of Spice and Seasoning was below that which I generally seek which makes me again wonder why it is not the waiter’s ritual to establish individual requirements.

The food actually became warmer as I tackled the interior, also from the depths came more Flavour and the sense of a – kick – at last. Things were improving, enjoyment being registered.

The Meat deserves a special mention. The pieces encountered at the start were soft or soft needing some chewing. No problems here. At no time would I consider any of the Lamb to be tough, yet the end game will go down as one not to be forgotten. The final two pieces of Meat, undeliverable. The penultimate piece took minutes of chewing before swallowing could be considered, yet it wasn’t tough. As for the final piece, a World Record? Maggie watched, realising what was happening. It felt like ten minutes such was the energy applied. I must have used more calories to chew the last bit than I gained from digesting it. I cannot apportion the blame to the Meat, so what happened here?

As Hector was trying to finish his Curry, a chap entered the premises with an air of ownership. He was escaping from the torrential downpour. The final mission of the day would be to engage him.

The Bill

£37.30    For the quantity of food served, this was excellent value. The Special Set Menu must be worth checking out for portion size versus value.

The Aftermath

I showed the waiter the Curry-Heute post featuring The Indian Cottage Tandoori:

I wrote this when you were still at school.

The Calling Card was issued, a classic scenario of when it did its job. Mein Host reappeared, now dressed for work. I explained my long held desire to dine here having encountered the splendid building so many years ago. He told us some of the history, the second oldest listed building in Shoreham, and Charles II had been recorded as a visitor. There was no Curry in those days.

Finally, one of the first Blog entries has an actual Curry review to complement what is a remarkable location to dine. This is the prettiest Curry House in England.

2021 Menu

 

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Whitechapel – Lahore Kebab House – Two Years and Ten Days After

Posted on May 23, 2021 by Hector

On consulting a well known and reliable website, as surely everyone does, Hector was reminded that the Fish Curry as served at Lahore Kebab House (2-10 Umberston St., Whitechapel, London, E1 1PY, England) was the required Curry-Heute. One has to wonder why it has taken this long to return to this venerable venue. Yes, Hector is dan sath, in that London, Staycation #1 – 2021.

With Lord Clive of Crawley accompanying, he who had the said Fish Curry on the previous visit, we arrived at Lahore Kebab House just before 14.00. In the next hour it felt like the entire East End was coming here. I stopped counting at fifty customers: families, couples, solo diners.

The table for two under the TV was allocated, no glimpses for us of the last matches of the Premier League. West Ham were securing a place in Europe, not enduring the relegation struggle of yesteryear.

The laminated Menu was brought, prices have increased marginally since the last visit. A Salad and Raita were placed on the table, there had to be a Starter. The Seekh Kebab (£1.50) impressed last time, so one each. The Fish Curry (£9.75) would be accompanied by a Chilli & Coriander Nan (£2.50). I read the Main Dishes to Clive, Keema Curry (£9.75) was his choice. On explaining what a Tawa was, Clive then went for the Tandoori version of the Paratha (£3.00).

Last time, large bottles of water were on each table, the Menu relays the policy: if you drink it, you pay for it. Today, I saw jugs of water aplenty, this should suffice, alas, trying to get one took many attempts.

Our waiter took the Order, but wrote nothing down. Minutes later he turned up with a Keema Curry. This was taken back to the kitchen when I informed him that we hadn’t had our Starters. A notepad was produced, the Order was written down. Back he came again – no Fish – he offered Prawns, no way, Pedro! (sic). Twenty minutes in the East End and Hector was blending in.  Still in the mood for – Curry – I changed to one of the – Specials – Lamb Curry (on the bone) (£9.75).

Eventually, a young chap was persuaded to bring us a jug of water.

Seekh Kebab

Two well-fired Kebabs were brought by our waiter who may have been feeling the strain of so many customers. I arranged all the bits for myself and Clive.

Just one? Next time two! So Meaty, Spicy, Tasty, these were a fine example of the genre. The Seasoning was there to complement the Spice. The pleasure was over far too soon. I did see a portion of the Grilled Lamb Chops (5 pcs) (£9.75) pass me by. If they were cooked as well as the Seekh Kebab, they too must be special. Why the odd number? So that one doesn’t have to share!

The Bread at Lahore Kebab House is always served – halved. I can cope with this, it’s the wee slices in a basket that particularly annoy the Hector. The Chilli & Coriander Naan had a buttery sheen, flecks of Green Chilli stood out, this would do. The Paratha was well fired, layered and appeared to be flaky. Clive ate every morsel.

Keema Curry

Topped with a sprinkling of Coriander, a large Potato was almost buried in the centre of the dish, so Aloo Keema then. The Masala was virtual, this was as Dry an interpretation as one gets. No Oil, was visible either. This was how a Keema should be served, one has to think of the abominations that one has experienced.

Very good, the right level of spice, a little kick in it – was Clive’s immediate remark.

At the end of the meal this was revised – Very pleasant, a little bit more kick wouldn’t have harmed it.

*

*

*

Lamb Curry (on the bone)

Did you want Rice? – was our waiter’s question when he placed the Curry before me. Had I known that a Shorva was headed my way, then most certainly I would have taken that option. The spoon therefore would be put to good use.

Seven large pieces of Meat sat in the Soupy Masala, I found three more pieces of boneless Lamb. Sucky Bones, always appreciated. The Shorva appeared to have been blended.

The Curry was both Hot and Spicy. The Earthy Flavours registered as classic Desi Curry, a step back in time. Curry in Mainstream restaurants just doesn’t taste like that which lay before me. I dipped the Naan in the Shorva, the Seasoning in the Bread upped the level of the Curry, excellent. I supped the Shorva as I would any Soup, an extra element to the eating today: dipping, tackling the Meat and supping. The Meat was mostly Tender, one or two pieces needed more chewing. Coriander Stems added a crunch to the Shorva. Here it was, a traditional Lamb Curry and served – on-the-bone.

Securing The Bill took a while, our chap was under pressure.

The Bill

£28.00   Similar to the last visit, but this time we avoided paying for water.

The Aftermath

We departed without fuss or ceremony, I may have mentioned how busy the place was. Hopefully, I’ll be back in six weeks or so.

2021 Menu

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Edinburgh – Kebab Mahal – 55 Hours to Level 2, Restrictions on Freedom Continue

Posted on May 18, 2021 by Hector

55 hours, that’s how close Glasgow came to entering Level 2, alas the pubs which have been shut for over seven months shall remain in Lockdown for the foreseeable. One week – my arse. Hector again finds himself barred from going into – The City of Glasgow – for Curry, or anything else, other than being in transit.

G41 & G42, the Southside, are the Glasgow postcodes where the spreading of the – Indian Variant – has been declared a problem. Hopefully those who reportedly have resisted vaccination, will get the message. This is where the Desi Curry Houses are located. I deliberately make no comment upon, or imply a link between, the previous two sentences.

There’s Bier and Curry to be had in Edinburgh, needs must. Kebab Mahal (7 Nicolson Square, Edinburgh EH8 9BH) was chosen as the venue for lunch before meeting Curryspondent Neil for ale indoors. Arriving at 12.20, two chaps were sat at the table I have selected on previous visits. This must be – the spot. Taking in my new viewpoint/perspective, I waited for the Son of Mr. Khan to serve me. Charlie, who claimed to be from Track & Trace (again – no badge, no uniform) kept him engaged for what felt like an age. Hector needed his Curry.

Today was Visit #4, as on Visit #3 I decided to try something different from the Menu. The description for the Lamb Rogan Josh (£7.75) was decidedly – old school. Where the – Creamy Variant – which now dominates menus in the Mainstream Curry Houses came from, nobody appears to know, I have asked my Curryspondents. The original – Tomato-rich – version became my staple Curry back in the days of the Akash (Helensburgh). This means I have eaten such a Curry many hundreds of times.

To accompany, it had to be the Mushroom Pilau (£2.95) which worked so well with the Lamb Madras enjoyed here at the end of last month. Last month? Hector is becoming a regular here.

During my short wait, a delivery guy came in with the supply of cola, another chap came in with boxes of Rapeseed Oil. This is the type of Oil I have been using in recent times, Chapatti John assures me it cooks at a higher temperature.

Lamb Rogan Josh

Now we know know what Kebab Mahal mean by – onion sauce – a Shorva. The slices of cooked Tomato were appreciably more than a Topping, there was masses of the stuff. I wondered if this was to the detriment of the Meat count, on decanting my fear was allayed. There was a mass of Meat below the Tomatoes, large pieces too, into double figures. With the very healthy portion of Mushroom Pilau, this was going to be quite a meal.

For Hector, a Bacon Roll takes on a new dimension when cooked Tomato is added, as does a Pizza with Black Olives. The blast of Tomato here still took me surprise, this was followed by Cloves registering. The Shorva partially disappeared into the Rice and so the latter became even more flavoursome, Flavours from everywhere.

Every Curry I have had at Kebab Mahal has had a level of Seasoning below the Hector idyll. In time, I noted the Shorva was lacking in punch, the Seasoning was in the Meat. Umami – the Meat here was punching above its weight for a standard Curry. The Spice Level could be described as – Moderate – at best. Maybe in future visits I should ask for more Spice and Seasoning. Given the rule that one eats what is put in front of one, there was no reason to be over critical. The Shorva-Rice combination, the amazingly Tender Meat, the Tomatoes, all excellent. We’re not using tinned Mushrooms at Kebab Mahal, are we?

This was comfort food, consequently, more empty plates for Mr. Khan.

The Bill

£10.00    Clearly rounded down.

The Aftermath

I had picked up earlier that the chap manning the show had to be a Khan Jr. I introduced myself and showed the blog entry for my last visit. I explained that I was in Edinburgh today because I was not allowed in Glasgow. I suspect I told everyone I met thereafter. The vaccination programme must continue to be effective.

Later, on my way to Haymarket I was pleased to see the lights on at Rustom Restaurant. 

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Glasgow – Mother India’s Cafe – Mittwoch Curry

Posted on May 12, 2021 by Hector

If it’s a Sunday in January, you might find Hector and Marg in the West End at Mother India’s Cafe (1355 Argyle St, Glasgow, G3 8AD). So, unsurprisingly this Wednesday afternoon in the middle of May, that is where we headed. We arrived just on 15.00, the final lunchtime customers were finishing, we would in time, have the place to ourselves.

Marg recognised Katherine, one of the two waitresses on duty. As a consequence or otherwise, three complimentary Poppadoms and two Dips promptly made an appearance at the table.

Only the standard menu was available, no Specials as yet, maybe later. Gone from the Menu is the Lemon and Cashew Nut Rice which Marg has always ordered to accompany her favourite Curry served here, anywhere – Butter Chicken (£6.00). Our waitress agreed that this is a loss, the campaign for its restoration starts here.

For Hector there are no prizes for identifying choice #1, it had to be Machi Masala (£5.80). Lamb Saag (£6.20) would provide a counterpoint in terms of flavour. The sensibly priced Parathas (£2.15) at Mother India’s Cafe have impressed over the years. Marg was expected to assist here on the assumption that she would finish her fallback Chapatti (£0.95). Knowing that she would not manage two full Tapas portions, Marg opted for Vegetable Samosa (£4.50) as her other Dish.

A litre bottle of Sparkling Water (£2.95) completed the Order. Again, I liked the price.

Having only glanced at the Poppadoms when they arrived, I was surprised to find we had three, not for long. Marg tore in, she likes her Poppadoms and knows that Hector is reluctant to order them. When they are presented, as today, great. The portion of Spiced Onions was ample as was the accompanying Raita. Raita? This was substantially more than the norm, Thicker and Creamier, the anticipated Garlic was still prominent, Tzatziki-like.

At Mother India’s Cafe, everything comes when it’s ready, fortunately the Vegetable Samosa arrived first.

Vegetable Samosa

This was quite a plateful. A Salad sat beside the pair of chunky Samosas. Additionally, a Tapas portion of Chana in a Masala provided diversity. Had the remainder of the Order not started to arrive, Marg may well have finished this Dish, however, she realised that would never finish the Curry that brings her back to this venue.

Full of vegetables – began Marg, I asked which – Peas, Potatoes and Cauliflower, it looked like. I enjoyed the Chickpea sauce, very filling.

The Chapatti came a few minutes before the Paratha. Large and thin, the Chapatti looked as if it would go crispy on cooling. It didn’t last long. The large Paratha had the classic Layering, Spiral and Flakiness. That Wholemeal Four had been used was the only parameter which prevented it reaching Hector’s idyll. Banana Leaf in the streets behind sometimes use the preferred White Flour.

Butter Chicken

For Hector, everything about this – Curry – ticked the undesirable boxes. Two large and one smaller piece of Chicken sat in a Thin, Creamy, Soupy Masala. I’ll persist with – Masala – I cannot insult an authentic – Lahori Shorva.

Marg loves it. She loves her Creamy Curry, and ironically it is the – kick – in Mother India’s Butter Chicken which makes it stand out from the rest, I’m told.

Temperature hot, loads of Chicken, the special – kick – was present – said the Lady who heartily ate one of Hector’s own creations last weekend which was – Super Spicy.

With both of my Dishes arriving simultaneously, I had to be careful with my choice of – Starter. I decided to commence with the much missed Fish.

Machi Masala

Just look at how Thick the Masala is here, proper Curry! Looking back at previous visits, this interpretation was even – Drier – than previously recorded. The closer any Fish Curry gets to Indian Mango’s (München) Chettinad, the better.

I counted six decent sized pieces of Fish in the Masala which prominently featured finely chopped Onions. There was a distinctive Tangy Flavour, different from the usual Citrus Blast. The Spice Level was not demanding but probably enough for most palates. The Fish retained its firmness and so was markedly different from the Flaky Fish served in say, a Fish Karahi in Bradford. That I choose to mention Bradford, the still Curry Capital, goes some way to show how difficult it is to secure quality Fish Curry in Glasgow.

The Tangy Flavour today felt as if this Curry was approaching Achari, still, it was full on, enjoyable.

Lamb Saag

The flash photograph does not accurately represent that which stared at me from the pot. I saw a Dark, Thick and Rich Masala covering four large pieces of Meat. That each piece of Lamb would be halved meant this – Tapas portion – had more Meat than some so called full portions.

Something has been driving me towards Spinach during Lockdown, the non compromising Flavours, less subtle than Methi? The Herb Blast here was everything I had hoped for. Whilst I could see green strands of Spinach, I would assume that there was array of Herbs present here. Compared to the Machi Masala, the levels of Spice and Seasoning were distinctly lower here, this did not matter, the Spinach fix is what was sought, it delivered.

The final piece of Lamb had to be cut into three pieces. This was some Tapas portion, I was approaching my limit. Having eaten way more of the Paratha than I normally would, the Bread was abandoned whilst I took care of the Meat. Finally, I was left with a few scoops of Masala, and so it was back to the Paratha. The Earthy Flavour of the Spinach was still hitting the spot. A worthy change from my usual, or could this become a more frequent choice?

Rather than take the plate with the remaining Samosa and Chana to the kitchen for packing, a foil container was brought to the table. In this way only one person was in contact with the food, Marg. Sensible.

The Bill

£28.55    £1.36 of this was marked as – Tax. I had to ask, all was explained. Should we thank the Chancellor of the Exchequer that tax on food is presently so low?

The Aftermath

After Marg and Katherine had chatted about matters hockey related, I introduced myself. It was only two days ago when I finally got around to posting the stand alone page for Mother India’s Cafe and so was determined that someone should see it. Showing an extensive array of Dishes from the Menu, it’s not just Machi Masala and Butter Chicken. I had to ask about the fabled Lamb Kofta, Katherine has never seen it in her time here, another campaign.

As I put on my fleece I suddenly became aware of the music, the opening bars of a popular Neil Diamond song. This could well be the first music I have heard in a restaurant in the UK for over a year, however, – touching me, touching you – is not permitted for another five days.

As we departed I did admit to coming here when I have failed to find Banana Leaf open at their advertised times. South Indian Curry, it has been a while.

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – Cast Iron Karahi

Posted on May 11, 2021 by Hector

Today was another day of indulgence, as if there haven’t been a few in the last week. Walking across the River Clyde for the first time in an age towards Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ), the progress on the Barclay’s construction site was striking. One cannot help but wonder: who is going to work in all this office space?

Qaiser was behind the counter, I did a double take with Chef Rashid who was sporting a more trimmed appearance. On taking my favourite seat, a new chap took my order:

Lamb Karahi (£8.90), one Chapatti (£0.70), they know how I like it.

On asking for water, a bottle (£0.80) was provided, I could make no sense of the explanation for the lack of jugs and glasses, a cardboard cup had to suffice.

As I waited for Chef to produce another – Meisterwerk – a few Takeaway customers entered the premises. Two chaps decided to sit in and have their wraps, well why not, we have been denied this pleasure for so long.

Lamb Karahi

Six months and two days have passed since I was last served a hot and sizzling Karahi Gosht at Karahi Palace. The Takeaways in the interim were enjoyed, but nothing can beat a Karahi straight from the hob. The Meat was piled high, this was a portion plus. The Toppings of Ginger Strips, Coriander and loads of sliced, large Green Chillies were complemented by slices of finger Green Chillies cooked in. Each would add their own distinctive Flavour to the eating experience.

The Chapatti was hot to touch, the Karahi even hotter, take care, Hector.

Joy of joys, the intensity of Flavour still astonished. The first dip of a piece of Chapatti into the hot oil is a well established ritual, the Flavour here was so familiar, a prelude to that of the Masala Mash itself. Tomato was highly visible.  On the train today I studied another online recipe for Karahi Gosht made with a Tomato-based Masala, no Onions. It looks so simple, but how does one achieve the magnificence of what lay before me today?

Sucky Bones, two of, two more Bones, this Curry was not the – bag of bones – that one fellow diner experienced many years ago. Some cuts I recognised but cannot identify with certainty. Large and flat, – skirting – is what Mother bought back in the 1970s. The Meat count was way into double figures, many pieces were decidedly huge. The most generous of portions, a wonderful welcome back, this was going to take an age to eat; fortunately, cast iron karahi kept everything hot that bit longer.

Some Meat was super-Tender, other bits required serious chewing, a mixed batch, the best of everything. And the Flavours, no individual Spice stood out, the Seasoning was – brave, plus.

Salty, burnt Tomato – is what I noted. Add to this the Spices, the Ginger crunch, the Herbs, this Karahi Gosht had it all.

My final scoop of Masala onto my Chapatti contained the last two pieces of finger Green Chillies, how these gave even the last mouthful another edge was remarkable, a crescendo. This unique interpretation of Karahi Gosht has to be experienced, in house.

The Bill

£10.40    Incredible value.

The Aftermath

Qaiser acknowledged me as I paid, Chef Rashid stuck his head out from behind his screen. I gave him the thumbs up, this guy can cook.

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Hector Cooks – Jackfruit Curry – Sometimes it simply doesn’t work

Posted on May 8, 2021 by Hector

Always on the lookout for an – Interesting Vegetable – to avoid the too simple – Meat & Masala – Hector became aware of Jackfruit courtesy of TV Chef Nadiya, the lady of baking fame. Tins of Jackfruit were purchased recently at KRK, the fresh vegetable complete with prickly green skin is available in many Asian grocers across the city.

In addition to the Jackfruit, today’s Curry included ground Cashew Nuts. These add a – creaminess – without using dairy, the Masala is also thickened.

The slow cooker has created some worthy outcomes in recent times, late morning I started the Onions, Ginger and Garlic and fried the solid Spices until popping.

The preparation was as per Hector’s standard in the long months of Lockdown. That a Home-cooked Curry was being prepared at all came as a surprise. Marg offered to bring back a Takeaway, however, these have definitely ceased given that restaurants are open once again. With nowhere else to be, home-cooking was the outcome this Saturday evening.

Mid afternoon, the Flavour of Cinnamon was dominant, but something was missing. Ah, this Curry needs Cloves! Two sliced Green Bullet Chillies were also added along with some Coriander Leaves.

For the final hour, the Curry was cooked in the oven, housed in my recent terracotta purchase. Dare I start with this on a low gas as the label suggests is possible after my recent – accident?

On removal from the oven, the Oil had separated, a quick stir restored the Curry to the desired appearance. Leftover Brown Rice would accompany, plus a Garlic Flatbread from a local supermarket.

Did you make this? – asked Marg. No.

If it’s round, Hector didn’t make it.

Jackfruit Gosht

Where was the Meat? The four Gigot Chops were decidedly thin, the visible solid was therefore the Jackfruit.

As is the custom, Marg remarked on the Spice Level, she was right to do so, this Curry was ferocious, this even took the Hector by surprise. From where had this heat come? I had not overdone the Chilli powder. Being hungry, Marg ate on and announced that she feels she can now cope with Spice at this level. What has happened here?

The Jackfruit had absorbed the Spice, every mouthful was therefore quite a challenge. Having retained its integrity through the considerable period of cooking, the Vegetable was soft, but far from pulp. However, the Texture simply did not appeal, Kadu this was not, the humble Potato reigns supreme.

In terms of Flavour, the Spice Level was doing it no favours. The Cashew Nuts were the only element which could have radically altered the Hector Curry. This Curry was not sitting well on Hector’s palate. I have asked this question in a couple of restaurants: how can you include all these ingredients and end up with a Curry which tastes like this?  Basically, I didn’t like it.

Marg ate on, she ate way more of the Curry than I did. The Bread was a great success, this may make an appearance again.

So the best part of the meal was that which Hector did not cook. So it goes.

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Glasgow – Darbar Grill – A Game of Two Half Kilos

Posted on May 6, 2021 by Hector

I have enjoyed Ahmed’s cooking over the years but have never experienced anything from the Darbar Grill (140 Allison St. Glasgow G42 8RP) – Darbar Special – or – Desi Style Karahi – menu. The full Menu appears online only, I phoned Ahmed yesterday to arrange the kilo of his Lamb Karahi (£29.99) for 15.00 this afternoon. Chapatti John was happy to be part of this meal of discovery.

Having taken a seat in the recently installed booths adjacent to the Curry on display, the son of Ahmed, who would be our waiter today, invited me to move further into the premises, away from the open door. I established that the Order had been phoned in already, three Chapattis (£0.70) seemed like a good number to start us off.

I had time therefore to photograph the most recent décor, gone are the colourful pictures, instead, plain stripes. I liked the powers sockets at each table with a USB facility, handy for those whose phone charge does not last the day. There was a sense of the setup being not quite finished, time will tell.

John asked about the origins of Darbar Grill, a lengthy story which is outlined – here. He also asked if – boneless – had been an option. I could only answer that it would come as it comes, this was an untried Karahi. Ahmed did not emerge from the kitchen prior to the serving of the food, there appeared to be quite a cluster of chaps in the kitchen, lots of activity.

Our waiter, who I first encountered back in 2016, brought a karahi and a single Chapatti with the promise of two more to come. He had already brought a Jug of Water and a Modest Salad plus Raita to the table.

*

Lamb Karahi

This looked magnificent, topped with Ginger Strips and Coriander, but this could not possibly have been the full kilo. When the two Chapattis were presented, it was admitted that this was only a half kilo. We asked for the same again. Did Ahmed believe two chaps could not handle the kilo? He had asked – for how many – when I placed the Order.

The Lamb, on-the-bone, sat in a distinctively brown, thick Masala. The bone count did not appear to be such that my fellow diner would be raising the issue of there being enough Meat. Sucky Bones, all was well. On decanting, sliced Green Chillies were revealed. The Flavour was immense, how could it not be? I have been enjoying Ahmed’s Lamb Curry and Aloo Gosht for years, always a treat. This Karahi was clearly something else. The Seasoning was right up there, the Chillies were doing their job, this Curry had a serious – kick. The Flavours were correspondingly intense, classic Desi Cuisine, this was a Curry that quite simply is not available in the Mainstream Curry Houses of Glasgow, or across the UK for that matter.

Knowing of John’s propensity to devour the odd Chapatti or six, I held back a bit, using the Bread to mop up the Masala, tackling the sooo-Tender Meat with my spoon.

A taste explosion of fresh ginger – was an early remark by John. He would further clarify this by mentioning that the Ginger Strips were not uniform, the chunkier bits most certainly won his approval.

Chana Daal

On the house, we had to try this – was the explanation when the son of Ahmed brought it to the table. Here was the required Diversity, the Interesting Vegetable. Piping hot, with a decidedly – Earthy – Flavour, this was a fine distraction.

Unsurprisingly, it took us no time at all to clear the first karahi, the second came soon after we were finished along with two more Chapattis. In the interim, John had got stuck into the Salad:

That salad is really good, cold and crispy.

Hector showed restraint.

Ahmed managed a brief appearance, apologising for not being able to spend more time with us. He had a significant order for later, hence the activity witnessed throughout our stay.

*

Lamb Karahi #2

The heat gave a boost to the proceedings. Had the whole kilo arrived at once, the end game would have been cool Meat and Masala, this was a moment of reinvigoration.

The Seasoning was a tad down, so maybe not the impact of Karahi #1, but still totally in the style. I had wondered if replication was possible at such short notice. Some of the Meat here was a bit chewier, still, taking one’s time extends the enjoyment.

John eventually declared he was at his limit, a situation worth noting. A Soupçon would go north of the river.

Exceeded expectations – why’s this? asks Hector – a lovely balance of spices, hit the mark, Chapattis a good size, definitely be back.

The Bill

£35.00, my Dad says make it £25.

We’ll split the difference, make it £30.

This was particularly generous on Hector’s part, John had already declared that this was my birthday treat.

The Aftermath

We bade farewell, Hector was not finished. Having parked on Calder Street, there was no way that Yadgar would be ignored. Four Chapli Kebabs were captured. This was also another opperchancity to observe the new seating. New tables were mentioned, hopefully the setup will work better than the moveable furniture at Kabana (Manchester).

*

Friday, May 7

Chapli Kebab with Yadgar’s hot Chilli Sauce, Zaytoun Salad courtesy of Marg.

Mmmmmmm.

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