Home-cooked Curry for Hogmanay in Helensburgh

New Year in Helensburgh, who would have thought? This was turning the clock back. Steve and Louise would be the hosts for the evening, Steve would cook a Curry, Hector was invited to provide also. With Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley in Scotland for the festive period, Hector decided to cook something markedly different from the norm. Competing with Steve’s presumed Lamb Curry would be bad form. Chicken Korma came to mind, especially with the knowledge that Clive and Maggie share the view that this notoriously bland Curry does not have to be served that way.

The Chicken Korma recipe as featured in Curry-Heute dates back to the Curry course undertaken by Hector some twenty years ago. This recipe evolved into – Kashmiri – with the addition of Raisins/Sultanas and flaked Almonds. On my birthday visit to Punajbi (Ibrox), Jazzy mentioned the rise in price of Cashew nuts.

Having purchased a 2kg bag of cooking quality Cashews recently, at what I thought was a good price, it was a matter when would I use them. I decided to thicken the Masala with @100g of ground Cashews. A kilo and a half of Halal Chicken Thighs (boneless) was purchased from the Scotstoun Asian Grocer.

Large Green Chillies which proved to be – slow burners – in last week’s Carnoustie Curry were added.

Plantain, the Creamy Masala should surely go well with this underused Vegetable.

The Plantain was sliced and fried, the only way I have ever cooked it.

Finally, Garlic Mushrooms were added in the final minutes along with the Creamed and Dessicated Coconut. A fiery Chicken Korma with Interesting Vegetables, possibly a challenge for some.

Steve had prepared a standard Mutton Curry.

Steve’s Curry skills have a common origin to my own being the first to adopt then adapt the Recipes from the Curry Course I attended. He had also prepared a Spicy Rice.  Like Marg, Louise likes to stir the pot and claim creative rights.

Poppadoms and Spicy Onions kicked off the ritual eating of the Curry.

After Dr. Alasdair’s impressive Spiced Onions I was surprised to find Steve’s of the same quality. Is there an online recipe which is enabling this? I had brought extra Green Chillies, Steve had the Fresh Coriander, the – foliage – was set out.

We were nine diners, familiar faces, though Carolyn makes her debut on Curry-Heute. As always, there was more Curry than we could eat, people should not go hungry.

Mutton Curry

The Meat had been well cooked, soft and Tender. The ratio of Meat to Masala was favourable. The Masala did not appear to have been blended, when not necessary, why would you? Steve had pitched the Spice Level appropriately for the mixed company.

Chicken Korma

The ground Cashews had thickened the blended Masala as was the plan. The Coconut was not excessive, therefore the Curry was not too Sweet. Nobody appeared to notice the presence of Plantain. Marg did raise it, I had to fish out a piece for Tracey who had previously experienced it in Caribbean Cuisine. As always, Tracey would not eat the Mushrooms. Apparently, those born in the USA are brought up on tinned mushrooms which are disgusting.

Maggie and Clive were first to sample the Masala, they had identical reactions. The expectations associated with Chicken Korma were met, then…bang! These Chillies are not so easy to find, they could have set a new standard. I thought the Spice grew but did not become overwhelming. Marg did say she preferred Steve’s less demanding Mutton Curry.  So it goes.

Hector enjoying a Korma, a Chicken Korma. Perhaps a return to – The Village – for their Lamb Desi Korma is overdue. I believe everyone returned for seconds, as with Carnoustie, Hector was last to finish.

Happy New Year!

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Hector Cooks for Carnoustie 2019 – Aloo Karahi Gosht

It’s December 28th, once again Hector and Marg have been invited to stay over on our trip south to feed The Carnoustie Two and invited guests.

Having presented Aloo Gosht Methi Achari back in 2016, disappointment was expressed regarding the boneless Lamb. It was very much a case of what might suit the majority.  Since then there has been a clear demand for – Lamb on-the-bone. The excellent New Spice of Asia (54 John St, Aberdeen AB25 1LL) has everything Hector-le-Chef could possibly need. Two and half kilos of Shoulder Lamb on-the-bone (@£22.00) was purchased two days ago, the car boot provided suitable refrigeration until the preparation could get underway.

Having watched many clips on YouTube on how to create Karahi Gosht, I have reached the conclusion that there is no definitive method. Some start with browning the Lamb in fried Spices then adding the Onions later. Sealing the Meat is too European an approach. At home I would have used the pressure cooker with ground Garam Masala mixed into Oily Water. This time I fried the whole ingredients for a Garam Masala in Oil then added water before the Meat. As I had lots of Fresh Coriander, it went in also. I gave the Lamb a full hour plus to ensure it would be cooked – Tender. Restaurateurs have convinced me not to try and cook the Lamb in the Masala, it burns the sauce. The Meat was removed from the liquid. The liquid could have been used as a Spicy Stock for Soup had I been at home.  Sadly, it was dumped, there was no demand for Hector’s Soup this year.

The Masala was therefore cooked separately. Having only managed to source sliced frozen Onions (two bags), I gave them an hour in a half litre of Oil to hopefully start the Masala Mash. Thereafter three tins of Tomatoes, two finely chopped fresh Garlic bulbs, diced Ginger and the usual Spices were added.

It took one hundred minutes to create the Masala Mash, the Lamb was added for some twenty minutes more. During this time, nine Potatoes were cut to bite-size and cooked al dente.

With the near Curry off the gas, the Potatoes were added and the mix left to cool. The Oil which separated was minimal. Given what I have written about Basharat G’z (Glasgow) in recent weeks, this – Curry – was already a success. The Curry was removed from the pot for transportation and left overnight.

Two Tablespoons of the Chettinad-style Garam Masala I made a couple of months back, plus an entire bunch of Fresh Coriander was all that I anticipated being added some ten minutes before serving. Somehow today’s reheat would take over an hour.

On arriving in Carnoustie, Dr. Alasdair had a mass of dough prepared for Naan. He was putting the finishing touches to something new – Peanut Masala Chat. He needed Coriander, I had brought plenty.  This was followed by his Spiced Onions which featured ketchup and Tabasco as the colourant and Spice. A bag of Chapatti Flour sat on the counter, surely the dough had to be prepared much earlier?

Dr. Alasdair has made better Chapattis. Hector remains to be convinced that induction hobs are not just a gimmick, only cooking on gas gives full control. The Chapattis became burnt and crispy far too quickly.

The Naan dough proved to be too moist to roll out. Paul came to the rescue and demonstrated his Bread making skills. With Chapatti Flour added, he managed to roll out out about half a dozen Naans. Had Paul not stepped in,  we could have been waiting all night for sufficient Naans to be ready. Margie, our co-host, asked for a three minute warning before serving the Rice, this was her night off from cooking after the previous hectic days. Margie also had some leftover Daal to add further diversity to the meal. Hector declined to make Paratha.

*

Meanwhile, the Curry took over half an hour to approach anything like – hot. Mags had some Tomatoes which needed using – put them in the Curry! With the Coriander, more Chillies and the Garam Masala added, it was a matter of not letting the Meat and Potatoes turn to pulp. A further detail, whilst the Oil separated, there was still a minimal quantity.

Knowing how many Chillies I had added to the Curry, it was never going to be – bland. Just in case one of the co-diners needed more, I prepared – The Foliage.

It’s a Manchester thing – I announced.

With the shop bought Poppadoms, Onion Chutney and the very impressive Peanut Masala Chat taken care of, it was finally time to call a halt to the Bread making and hopefully enjoy the Aloo Karahi Gosht.

Aloo Karahi Gosht

In recent months, the Hector objective has been to merge two styles Curry from opposite ends of  the Indian compass: the Punjabi Karahi with the Smokey Flavours of South India. The Texture looked absolutely perfect, Thick, and as far from Soup as Curry can be. Having not blended the Masala, the Mash looked truly authentic.

It tastes like my Curry – was my remark to Marg when I started eating.

Marg saw this as a positive, I always hope that somehow I’ll create a radically new outcome. The Spice Level was such that it built up throughout the eating, it was not a case of the first mouthful being off-putting. Marg managed, so it was not ridiculous. The Seasoning had been adjusted in the final minutes before serving, again not in the face, well pitched, not brave.

I now understood why this Lamb was cheaper than expected, there was an abundance of bones, nobody complained. This is what I had been asked to cook. There was a plenty of Curry, so the piles of bones that accumulated were never an issue.

The Meat was easily the best I have ever prepared. The Texture was spot on, so Tender. The stock I had created had permeated the Lamb, this Meat was – giving Flavour. Marg and our hosts both commented on how pleasing the Lamb was. The Potatoes had also absorbed the Flavours from the Masala, they had remained coherent, phew!

Of the eight diners, two took a modest portion each then stopped. (It was explained to me later why this was so, and not necessarily a reflection on the fayre). Everyone else had seconds, some had thirds. Hector was last to stop eating. This Aloo Karahi Gosht was as good a – Hector Curry – as ever presented.

I always ensure that there is more food than the diners can eat, no small portions, no running out of Curry. When it was time to clear up I had to photograph the remnants, look at how little Oil had accumulated.

To bring Hector back down to Earth, one fellow diner did admit that she had preferred the Machi Masala from a couple of years back. I have been commissioned for another Curry next year, Kofta Anda would be quite a departure, I have a year to learn how to make – Shorva. Will it taste the same as tonight’s Masala? All being well, we shall see.

Two days later…

I gave Howard a portion that was brought back from Carnoustie. I asked for his opinion without prompting him as to why.  Howard’s verdict:

Spot on Mr T. Bought a Paratha to go with it. Decanted half and was stunning. Tasted like something from Yadgar or KP. If it had been poor I would have been kind and said it was ok. Didn’t need to. Depth of flavour and spice at the high end which I liked. Methinks you are getting to professional level. Thank you.

He didn’t pick up on the quality of the Meat, ah well, the flavours impressed.

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Aberdeen – Shri Bheema’s (Bridge of Don) – Ho-Ho-Ho Curry-Heute!

For reasons various, this was the first December 25th since 1998 with Bier but without the traditional turkey dinner. Marg promised Hector there would be Curry-Heute. She knows the rule, once agreed, no going back.

I phoned Shri Bheema’s (Balgownie Road, Nevis Business Park, Bridge of Don, Aberdeen AB22 8NT) late afternoon to verify that they were open, and that the a la carte Menu would be available. All was well. We eventually arrived at 18.40 to find a group of ten just finishing, the rest of the restaurant was empty.

Tony, Mein Host, greeted us both with hugs. He was surprised to see us – on this of all days – as he put it. Our visits to this Aberdeen Curry House, now chain, have been sporadic. It is one day short of two years since our last visit, yet we have always been recognised, something perhaps to do with the positive write-ups over the years. Yet, on their day, nothing in the city matches the Punjabi Cuisine at Lahore Karahi, they were closed today. I had reconciled myself to – the Flavours of South India.

A young chap took the drinks order. We have had large bottles of Sparkling Water here in the past, tonight we had to accept two small bottles. I was nearly tempted by Shri Bheema’s own branded IPA. I should have asked by whom, and where, it was brewed.

Last time Marg had the Kanchi Lamb Curry (£18.99). Such was the portion size, quite a bit of it came my way. I was determined to have this tonight. Marg considered the same again, but thought something else would be more appropriate for the purposes of Curry-Heute. Tony admitted that the few portions of Marg’s next choice –  Dum Ki Nalli (£19.99) had gone. He suggested that the Murgh Hara Dhania (£18.99) could be done in Lamb instead of Chicken, so – Hara Dhania Gosht – then. Check the prices.

The Dum Ki Nalli would have featured an inclusive Tandoori Roti (£3.49). I believe both of our actual choices included Rice, however, I was determined to have Vegetables and so asked for Vegetable Fried Rice (£5.99). Marg was offered Plain Rice but stuck to her preferred Roti option. As always, I asked that no Capsicum appear in any part of our Order.

Marg’s Roti scuppered my plan to share a Paratha (£3.99). The Parathas are always perfect at Shri Bheema’s. I cannot let this review go any further without highlighting the price of a solitary Chapatti – £2.99! This gives the good people of Bradford apoplexy, they are used to three or four being inclusive with every Curry. When I’m in Bradford I always refer to – the price of Bread in Aberdoom, when I’m in Aberdoom I still cannot believe what restaurants charge. Only the aforementioned Lahore Karahi has the price of Bread at something approaching the realistic for – flour and water.

The young chap brought hot plates. Tony took them away, our Curry was not coming in an instant. The plates were never returned, Chef had other ideas.

When Tony placed our respective Main Dishes before us, he admitted that both were identical. The description of the Hara Dhania has a – one Chilli – rating and mentions – fresh coriander. The Kanchi Lamb Curry has a – two Chilli – rating yet is described as – mild – and also mentions – spring onion. The photos below raise the question – did we have each other’s Curry?

The portion of Vegetable Fried Rice was enough for two diners. Perhaps the Menu should make this clear? Curry-Heute does, this is Hector’s role. Featuring Peas, Green Beans, Broad Beans, Cauliflower, Onion, Carrots, Cabbage Sweetcorn and Potatoes, this was a veritable cornucopia, exactly what I seek from a Vegetable Rice – Diversity. The Tandoori Roti was large and served in two pieces. Why not just fold it and let the diner tear off strips as required? The Roti alone would not suit the nature of the Curry served, I encouraged Marg to take some Rice also.

Salty – said Marg as soon as she sampled the Rice.

For Hector, this was a good start.

Kanchi Lamb Curry

Note the topping of – Fresh Coriander!

OK, it’s a classic Soupy Curry, the type of Curry Hector typically writes off, unless…

Served in a soup plate, how appropriate, there was no option but to pile the Rice on top of the Masala then stir it in. This always feels strange, one is used to adding Curry to Rice and watch the Masala soak in. The Meat count did not initially appear to justify the price, however, every piece was decidedly – large. There would be no shortage of food.

The Spice and the Seasoning were well pitched, this Curry would be all about what happened next. Slowly the hoped for – Smokey Flavours – associated with – Chettinadu-style Curry – were registered on the palate. Success.

As I ate on so the Spice Level seemed to register further up the scale. I piled on more Rice, the array of – Interesting Vegetables – was a distraction from the Soupy Masala. The photo of this same Curry two years ago shows a much thicker Masala and Tomatoes on top. Hector always prefers a – Thick and Minimal Masala. To have ordered only Bread with this Curry would be a near catastrophic error, it needed the abundant Rice.

*

Hara Dhania – Gosht

Note the topping of Syboes – Spring Onion!

Identical indeed to the Kanchi, I had to sample this Curry. I could not tell any difference yet the preparations were decidedly different according to the Menu. Marg fished out a Clove and what might have been a Cardamom shell, otherwise we saw no difference.

The Roti disappeared in no time, a second would have been ideal, but who orders two Rotis in Aberdeen? Marg did her best to help me finish the Rice, we admitted defeat eventually.

I was wondering if the Spice Level was too much for Marg, no problems were reported. Eventually, Marg waved the white flag, a couple of pieces of Meat and quite a bit of the Masala were piled on top of my remnants. Hector had his fill and still could not tell the Dishes apart. Marg was impressed by what she had eaten.

In the middle of our meal Tony came over, I expected the customary question, his approach was quite radical:

It is difficult to ask people who know Curry inside out.

We were both thoroughly enjoying our Curry, the reply was simple:

I came for South Indian Flavours, I have them.

The Bill

£41.96 I didn’t see the itemised – Bill – but have to conclude that the Bread and Rice were included in the price of the Mains, which does make Shri Bheema’s appear competitive, i.e. in terms of Aberdeen pricing.

The Aftermath

The staff were clearing up, ready to go home after a busy day. We bade farewell.

This was the first time Marg has had Curry on xmas day, traditions have to start somewhere, sometime. Curry on this day in the 1980s was a Hector tradition in the small hours at the much missed Akash (Helensburgh).

I note that Blue Moon is now a Middle Eastern Restaurant (Kebab Shop).  This is the fifth Curry House in Aberdeen to close  in the nearly ten years of Curry-Heute. Ten Years?  I wonder where the anniversary Curry will be?

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Glasgow – Yadgar Kebab House – The Nights are fair drawin’ oot…

Having assembled – Lasagne for ten – so that Marg could take it to a dinner party elsewhere, Hector was left to his own devices this Sunday afternoon. With Spag-Bol for a home alone dinner an inevitability, Hector needed a light lunch. Where better than Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP)?

Light lunch? Yadgar? Here was the perfect opperchancity to have something with Vegetables. Usually, Shkoor – Mein Host – is contacted in advance in order to have kilos of Meat Karahi underway. Occasionally, I like to turn up and see what – Daily Specials – are on offer. I was gambling that Aloo Gobi or Potatoes/Carrots/Peas would be available.

John decided he was up for this, a 14.00 rendezvous was agreed. I arrived early, no Naveed, he must have a day off sometime. It was the new chap who was behind the counter. He must be well established if he was left to run the show. I took photos of the Dishes on display, there at the back was Aloo Gobi! The Chapli Kebabs were piled up, this, hopefully, these, I had to have also.

It is always difficult to take exterior shots of the Yadgar frontage due to parked cars and a busy road. I had another go today, the new illuminated signage stood out well in the dim light of the winter afternoon. Kebab House – has been dropped, I shall have to consult over this. Meanwhile inside, both window tables were occupied, six chaps, Doner and Chips being the Order of the day. I ask you.

When John arrived he asked for the Menu, that was a first. I realise at the time of writing that the Menu has been updated since the 2017 version presently posted. The Tandoori Mix Platter (£13.50) caught John’s eye:

Will I get a sauce with that?

Ask.

Can I get a Karahi sauce?

Ask.

I doubted the latter, Karahi is prepared to order, Chef was unlikely to have some spare Masala just sitting around, but one never knows.

John was not going to miss out on the Chapli Kebabs. One Chapatti for Hector, two for Chapatti John.

I’ve cut back on my Chapattis – he informed me. We’ll see.

More Mango Rubicon completed the Order. The new chap noted everything carefully.

Names, I’m bad at getting names. The chap who has worked at Yadgar in all my years of feasting here, whom I consider to be the Sous Chef, came in. His face was masked, it wasn’t that cold outside. He acknowledged me then patted me on the back as he entered the kitchen. Chef Arshad arrived moments later. Hector’s Curry House.

The Chapli Kebabs were accompanied by the Yadgar – Hot – Chilli Sauce, as in temperature, and a Raita. This Chilli Sauce bears no resemblance to that which caused such offence in Berlin recently. A Salad arrived too, this featured some Spiced Onions.

With everything assembled, it was time to cut in to the Kebab. Spicy, well Seasoned, so tasty. I was so glad there were two, double the fun.

John was well taken with the Salad, he wondered what Herb had been added. I was not aware of any being so involved in the mixture of delights on my plate. John finished the Salad, no wastage.

There was a suitable gap before The Mains.

Tandoori Mix Platter

One assumes this was conceived to share. Over the years we have had enjoyed many of the components in this – Platter. Today was the first time it has appeared in its own right in Curry-Heute. Lamb Chops, Skewered Lamb (Shish Kebap), Tandoori Chicken, Chicken Chat (Wings) and Lamb Seekh Kebab covered the unusually large plate, a – Platter – indeed.

A Curry Sauce accompanied, from – The Big Pot – if Yadgar have such a thing. With Chapattis in hand, John tucked into his Feast. I noted his comments as he ate:

That’s the best Mixed Tandoori I’ve ever had.

The presentation was fantastic as well as the taste.

Not just the size, second to none.

John usually goes as far as – as good as I’ve had – when appraising his food. If he says this was the best, it was. I should have dipped the Sauce to see what it was. I suspect this may well have had something to do with the level of pleasure.

John left half a Chapatti. Wtf?

Aloo Gobi

I could eat this every day. I write that every time.  With pulped Cauliflower in the Masala, then finer large pieces, cooked to perfection. The Potatoes as one would expect, had absorbed so much of the Flavour from the Masala.

There was Oil collecting at the base of the plate. There’s Oil and there’s Oil. The amount was modest, tasty, no problem. Yadgar’s nearest neighbour could do well to analyse this.

The Spice Level took me aback at one point, I must have sipped some Rubicon, silly Hector. How Chef gets this amount of Flavours into a Vegetable Curry astounds every time I have this.

I will admit to struggling towards the end, amazing how Vegetables can fill to this extent. OK, the Chaplis did their bit.

Can I get you anything else? – we were asked.

We had enough, two happy chaps.

I asked for – The Bill – expecting it to be itemised for once.

The Bill

£20.00 OK, Hector gets – special rates. This was visit and Blog entry #110 for those who have lost count.

The Aftermath

There was a few moments with Chef Arshad who is always happy to see us.

Now to find Howard…the Bad Boys’ Club.

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Glasgow – Little Curry House – A Solstice Curry

Hector was in two minds today, where in the Southside would I have my Saturday afternoon Curry? In the end, I alighted at Partick. Had the bus timings been more favourable I would have ended up at Banana Leaf, however, I walked towards Byres Rd and found myself at the Little Curry House (41 Byres Road, Glasgow, G11 5RG). Curryspondent Doug replied to my question regarding Masala Twist which has been closed for some six months. This leaves Little Curry House as the only venue actually on Byres Rd, Chaakoo Bombay Cafe have recently opened a new branch in a lane off, then there’s Ashton Lane.

I announced myself as being – one – and was shown upstairs. A couple were waiting for their Order. It was quiet mid afternoon, Hector’s preferred eating time.

The a la carte Menu was on the table with Tapas on the back. Various Deals were available until 16.00. I decided not to mess about, on seeing the Lamb Massalam with Methi Aloo (£11.00), my choice was made. I have had mixed experiences with Paratha (£2.75) on my previous two visits to this venue under this branding. The first time impressed, last time did not. It was time for The Paratha Police to investigate once more.

The Waitress took the Order, no mention of Spice Level. A Sparkling Water (£2.00) completed the Order. In the two and a half years since my last visit here, the prices have only gone up a tad.

The food was brought up to the mezzanine on a tray. The staff here must be kept fit.

The Paratha was of the – Wholemeal – variety and served quartered in a basket. Last time I specifically asked for the Paratha to be served whole and it was. I suppose it is up to the diner to insist on Bread being served whole.

The layering was there, the – swirl – visible. The Paratha flaked on further breaking. I ate more of this Paratha than I would normally manage, I found this to be a suitable accompaniment.

Lamb Massalam with Methi Aloo

Aloo Gosht with Methi in other words. The Masala was Minimal, it had not been blended, this looked like a worthy Karahi Gosht. On appearance, this was the closest to Desi Cuisine I have been served at Little Curry House. Expectation levels were being raised, however, the portion size did not overwhelm, especially when I decided there was as much Potato as Lamb.

The Meat was so – soft – a delight. The Spice Level was not challenging, extra Chillies would have given a bigger – kick. The Seasoning was – low – but after my midweek experience at Basharat G’z, any Curry would seem so. I alternated between Meat then Paratha with the Masala Mash. I gave the thumbs up when the Waitress came up to ask the customary question. Fenugreek Potatoes – was this the source of the Methi?  This Curry had not just been thrown together from – The Big Pot.

The pieces of Meat were large, had I ordered Rice, then each would have been halved. What did not feel like a large portion initially, was proving to be substantial. I had to remind myself that this was not the half kilo. A half kilo? I could have devoured that today. The Flavours kept coming, the Masala Mash at the base of the karahi was carefully scooped up. I was really enjoying this.

I was surprised to find a bone, this definitely took this Curry well away from the – Mainstream. This truly was a Desi Curry, it just became better and better the more I ate. This was easily the best Curry I have eaten on these premises since the days of Mrs. Majhu’s.

I think I’ll have to come back soon, another project.

The Bill

£15.75 Well within acceptable parameters.

The Aftermath

I squeezed past more diners as I took my leave. I had not recognised any of the staff front of house or in the open kitchen. I assume Little Curry House is still operated by the Singh family, some of whom I met back in 2015?

Menu extracts

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Glasgow – Basharat G’z – Under control…

Mark is up from Wales for a few days, he required Curry. Howard and John would join us at Basharat G’z (223-225 Allison Street, Glasgow, G42 8RU) for the 16.00 rendezvous. This would be Howard’s first visit, however, he did have the honour of being the first to visit this venue in the summer when it was briefly Al Anwar.

It is a few days to the solstice, darkness had already fallen, the dining room was comfortably warm. Abbas was there to greet, Basharat himself entered having been summoned to cook.

We were all having the half kilo of Lamb Karahi (£12.00). Only John would have – boneless – the rest of us would have the more authentic – on-the-bone – Karahi. Howard and Mark followed my lead to order a Chilli and Coriander Naan (£3.00). Chapatti John would order four: two Tawa Chapattis (£0.70) and two Garlic Chapattis (£1.00). He did say he would not eat them all here, he had plans for the surplus later. Surplus? That’ll be a first.

A young chap brought a jug of water, glasses and a full plate of Salad. After the Salads presented in Berlin last week, it was good to get back to the traditional, not that I had any.

They did their best to bring everything at once on a tray. Three Chapattis arrived later.

John was more than happy with his Bread order.

and the breads were fantastic – he would add to his few words about the Karahi. Normally, Hector has a Chapatti with a Lamb Karahi, but not here, the bespoke Naan has been perfected.

The Naans today were the best yet. Served whole, which for me is so important, the sliced Green Chillies had been rolled in, the Coriander leaves sat atop. Once again, the centre of the Naan had been perforated to stop it rising – Rogni-style. Today the edges were seriously puffy and well fired. This was the best of both Worlds. None of us would finish our Naans such were the size.

Lamb Karahi

The Masala was possibly even Darker than seen previously. Oil has been an issue on most visits, a Karahi without Oil will not work. Too much is unhealthy. The Oil separating is the sign in cooking that a Masala is – ready. Today, the Oil in the three on-the-bone Karahis was less than before, however, John’s – boneless – did have a bit of a slick when he stopped eating.

Dipping Bread in the Oil is the customary way for Hector to start, here lies so much Flavour, today excellent, intriguing. The Seasoning registered immediately, some would have found this excessive, or – challenging – in workplace parlance. I love a well seasoned Curry, today I most certainly had one. The Spice Level was enhanced by the extra Chillies in the Naan, what a wonderful combination this is, who thought it up?

Basharat was soon out of the kitchen to check that all was well. He was given the thumbs up, then asked about the Oil.

Under control – was my measured response.

Ribs and larger bones were present. As is the case with a Karahi served this – hot – one had to be patient before the Meat could be tackled. Tender, lovely, with Flavours from the Lamb offering so much more than anything I found last week in Berlin where, in the classic – Mainstream Curry House Scenario – I felt the Meat and Masala were strangers. Not today, this Karahi was a master-class.

John noted the various – sounds of pleasure – around the table. Abbas came out to take our photo. We were all trying to work out what the background Flavour was. Cinnamon – was my offering. Howard suggested – Lime Pickle – which was interesting, because around the corner at New Gandhi, they blend in Lime Pickle so the Flavour is present without the rind. John offered – Black Cardamom – having encountered them here on a previous visit. Maybe some of the Palak on display found its way in?

Whatever, this Lamb Karahi was a joy to eat, though later Mark would refer to the Torrey Canyon when describing his Curry today. In the Restaurant he was more circumspect:

I see what you mean about the oil – said Mark.

And that’s it under control – added Howard.

Mark continued:

Good after burn in the back of the throat, pretty good.

As always, Howard added more than a few words:

Expectations were high following reviews on a well known Curry website (what happened to – reliable?). Suffice to say, I wasn’t disappointed. A distinct darkness and earthiness to the Curry, accentuated by the Naan. The spice level and seasoning were perfect for me. Another excellent Southside Curry.

John was miffed:

Howard stole my deep, rich and dark flavours.

Four boys came and sat at the next table. They were at the age where they are responsible but choose not to be. Abbas checked them for their over-loud and unnecessary vocabulary. They departed, then returned, becoming six, then eight. I am told they shared two bags of Chips. John had them in hand, nobody messes with John.

It is a feature of this area that groups of children, youths and adults do hang around street corners. Let’s hope it never kicks off, businesses would suffer.

The Bill

£60.40 We had been fed.

The Aftermath

Once again, I took photos of the prepared Curry on display. Saag/Palak sat beside a Dessert Rice then trays of Chicken also Lamb Curry. Beneath lay the excellent Aloo Gobi. Abbas asked for my verdict. I told him that I describe Chefs who serve a Curry this well Seasoned as – Brave.

Today’s was – Brave-plus!

Earlier, I noted that Masala Twist (Byres Rd.) has gone. Does anyone have information on this?

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Oranienburg – MIRA Indisches Restaurant – This was NOT Curry

With Jonathan and Steve back in Blighty, Hector Naypals had a day of reflection. There was a late afternoon trip to Oranienburg, a city in the north of Berlin’s hinterland and the site of Sachsenhausen Gedenkstätte, one of the first concentration camps. Such was the traffic congestion thereafter, it would have been quicker walking back to MIRA Indisches Restaurant (Bötzower Platz 15, Oranienburg, Brandenburg, Deutschland), Oranienburg’s only Curry House.

Arriving at 16.45, there was a group of ladies dining in the main room. I was invited to sit in the side room where a couple had just ordered. As a result, there is no proper photo coverage of what was a well laid out and interesting venue.

This meal would be breakfast, lunch and dinner. Having had Lamb in the past two days, it was time to try a Fish Curry. Fisch Jahlferezi (€10.50) was listed as – sehr scharf – quite a claim for a Mainland Europe Curry House. Rotbarschfilet was translated as Coal Fish which in turn I find translated as  Saithe in Scots. Tomatensoße was somehow lost, wot, no Tomatoes in English? As always, I would ask for the Paprika to be withheld.

The waitress pointed out that the Curry would be – Scharf. Rice would be inclusive as would Salad, no Capsicum would appear. Hector had high hopes. I asked for a large bottle of Sparkling Water, a 0.4l glass (€3.20) arrived.

Two Poppadoms were presented, one well fired the other not. The standard three Euro Dips accompanied. The Mint was checked then left, the Tamarind and Raita would suffice. Having had nothing to eat prior to this, I had considered ordering a Starter. When the Salad came I was glad I hadn’t.

As has been a feature of this week in Berlin, the Salad was very – German. The red strips were pickled Capsicum, quite tasty actually. I thought it better to leave them to avoid any unwelcome after-taste. Cabbage in a dressing, Sweetcorn, Carrot, Tomato and Cucumber were also present, quite a spectacular array.

The Curry arrived before I had finished the nibbles, one Poppadom was abandoned. The Rice was twice as much as a Hector could eat, two full platefuls. I couldn’t help but think of those who had starved to death in this city some eighty years back. A waste of Rice.

The karahi was placed on a heater, what a mountain of Curry, or was it? The aroma was powerful, oh no. I wasn’t going to enjoy this. On Monday at Dezi Indishes Restaurant Berlin, the Red Chilli Sauce which smothered Jonathan’s Namaste Mixed Tikka was not well received. Having purchased bottles of differing brands over the years, they have all ended up in the bin.  One word describes this style of sauce – horrible!   So what was this Sauce doing here? I cannot use the term – Masala – because I do not believe that this Red Sauce qualifies.  IMHO, this Jalfrezi wasn’t – Curry.

Was this how it came out of the jar, or was the nasty Red Food Dye added? The sauce had no depth of Flavour, maybe just Chilli and Red Food Dye. It was as Spicy as promised, not a problem, however, eating this would be monotonous. White specks were mixed through the Sauce, Garlic probably, no Flavour from this was registered.

The solids were aplenty. The Cauliflower retained the firmness I like. Any Flavour from the Ginger Strips was masked by the Sickly Chilli Sauce. When I tackled the Fish I was surprised at the strength of Flavour emanating from it. In a proper Masala, this Fish would have greatly enhanced the Overall Flavour, but not today. The palate was simply swamped by the Red Chilli Sauce. To make matters worse, the Fish was rubbery.

I had to do something. I mixed the remaining Tamarind into the Sauce, a slight improvement. Then I added the Raita, thinking even a Creamy Curry would have been more acceptable. Finally, the last resort, I mixed some of the Cabbage through the Sauce in the hope that the Dressing would create the – Achari effect. It didn’t.

I was glad when I had eaten enough to stop.

I got up to find someone to pay and was offered Mango Liqueur.

The Bill

13.70 (£11.54) A lot of food for one’s money.

The Aftermath

I gave the Calling Card to the waitress. All the staff I had seen were European, were there any Asians in the house? I was hoping to talk to the person who had created this – Curry. Not to be.

On the train back to Berlin I noted that the after-taste was grim, worse than the – Capsicum effect. My final note was made – This ‘Curry’ was awful.

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Potsdam – India Haus – Curry with Potential

Hector first set foot in Potsdam back in 1992. Ten years previously, crossing over to East Berlin through Checkpoint Charlie, it was made clear I should not go to Potsdam. Maybe the DDR did not want tourists standing on – the wrong side – of the Glieneker Brücke? A return was overdue. Steve agreed this is a lovely town, well after one gets into the Altstadt. Future visits appear likely.

There was an impressive choice of Curry Houses in Potsdam. Consulting other sources, I kept changing my mind as to which venue would be chosen for Curry-Heute. India Haus (Gutenbergstr. 90, 14467 Potsdam, Brandenburg, Deutschland), founded in 1999, was reportedly the first Curry House in Potsdam.

I was surprised to find so many diners here on a Tuesday evening, typically the quietest night of the week. We were shown to a table opposite the bar. The Menu was brought along with one Poppadom and three Dips. There was a bit of a wait, lots of food was taken past us. I did smile when I saw platefuls of traditional German Salad being taken to one table.

I would take advice from Mein Host as to my choice of Curry. I was trying to work out how to avoid paying €5.50 for a 750ml bottle of Sparkling Water. Still Water should be cheaper, surely?

Steve announced Soup to start. Madras Rasam (€3.90) – Red Linsensuppe – could be interesting, Fisch Pakora (€4.40) for Hector. With no Lamb Madras available, Steve took the nearest thing – Mutton Vindaloo – (€14.90). Steve is happy to have just Meat and Masala, Hector prefers something more complex. I pointed to both Mutton Subji (€14.20) and Mutton Kumbi (€14.90) and asked which would better suit my requirements: Minimal Sos, ohne Paprika, Scharf. Mein Host advised the Subji, usually waiters suggest the dearer Curry.

The solitary Poppadom looked lonely, how could we share it? Steve asked for another one, not a problem. We were warned that one Dip was Spicy, it was, the Tamarind also. With the embedded Cumin Seeds, this was a tasty way to wake up the palate which has become accustomed to – Hopfen – of late. Steve was impressed.

Two plates of Side Salad were brought to the table, very German, though Rocket was a first. Hector cannot stand Rocket, it looks too much like dandelion leaves. And so there was a quick excavation revealing mostly Lettuce. Foliage, but no Coriander, Ginger or Chillies.

Fisch Pakora

Six large pieces of Fish in Batter were accompanied by more Rocket, in fact the same – Salad and Dips – again. On dissecting, the Batter proved to be thin, so the ratio of Fish to batter was impressive. The Fish was white, tasted watery, and was totally lacking in Seasoning. Fish, that didn’t taste a lot like – Fish. Steve reckoned it was frozen Fish that had not been dried properly before cooking. A new theory for Hector, but one that sounds plausible.

Madras Rasam

Served in a karahi this Shorva, if served as a Main Course, would have been Hector’s Curry Nightmare. I could just imagine bits of Chicken floating in this and perhaps too many being pleased. Anyway, this was Soup, despite having all the appearance of a Masala. On tasting, Steve added Salt, even some of the Dips ended up in there. The required boost had been given.

Very tasty soup – Steve decided – not had lentils for a long time.

The presentation of hot plates preceded the arrival of The Mains. There was ample Rice to share. As is the Berlin way, a fresh, hot, puffy Bhatura also accompanied. This was Steve’s first encounter of this deep fried Bread which certainly works as an accompaniment despite the slight – Sweetness.

Not too heavy – was Steve’s observation.

Mutton Vindaloo

Spot the difference between this and the Soup. Redder and thicker, but too close for comfort. I asked Steve if there was Potato, he only spotted it after I had asked. I always expect Potato in a Vindaloo, Steve’s interpretation of the origins of this Curry is the alternative one. He is in the – Carne de vinha d’alhos – camp which does not include Potato.

Pleasant, mildly spiced – was Steve’s take on this Curry – nowhere near what I would expect in a Vindaloo, a creamy sauce, edible.

A culinary pun or not regarding – alhos/aloo – disappointingly, Vindaloo is not always served – Spicy, especially in mainland Europe.

*

Mutton Subji

The combination of Lamb and Vegetables has become a popular choice for Hector in Mainland Europe, Vindaloo ironically being the fallback. I could see the Vegetables, where was the Meat?

Potatoes, Cauliflower, Onions, Broccoli, Aubergine, Mushroom, Sweetcorn and Peas were present. An impressive list, and such was the quantity, the ratio of solids to Masala was most impressive. Whilst taking stock of the Vegetables I counted eight small pieces of Meat. This was a Vegetable Curry with Meat, I had no objections to this. The Vegetables were cooked as they should be: those requiring – crunch – having it, the remainder – soft. The Flavours impressed despite the lack of Seasoning and Spice. The Dips were way Spicier. The Lamb also impressed, a Dry, Earthy Flavour, wonderful compared with yesterdays disappointment at Dezi Indisches Restaurant Berlin.

Overall, this Curry impressed despite the lack of Spice and Seasoning. There was the potential here for something special.

What appeared to be a mountain of Rice at the start was reduced to a few grains. We both cleared our plates. When Mein Host came to clear the table he did the double take.

I’m so happy – he exclaimed. That’s twice in a week this has been the reaction.

The Bill

42.90 (£36.05) Despite my strategy, we paid €5.50 for the Still Water. I should have accepted the Sparkling.

The Aftermath

Curry-Heute was introduced. Mein Host promised more Spice and Seasoning next time. He was happy to accept the comments. He has only returned to Potsdam in the last year having worked in Hamburg previously. He may well have been here when India Haus was established.

I would come here again.

Menu extracts

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Berlin – Dezi Indisches Restaurant Berlin – Desi Curry?

Hector is back in Berlin, the third time this year and another opperchancity to extend the coverage of Curry-Heute. Swera in Kreuzberg has consistently been the most impressive Berlin Curry House found to date. Today I looked at the list of possibilities, Dezi Indisches Restaurant Berlin (Pasteurstraße 18, 10407 Berlin Deutschland) was two stops from the Ibis Budget near Alexanderplatz, convenient. However, the choice came down to the name – Dezi – how could Hector ignore the possibility of finding true – Desi Curry – in Berlin?

Setting off at noon, Jonathan said he would join me. This meant a twenty minute wait in the restaurant during which time I studied the Menu and enjoyed some Fanta (€3.10). Bhuna Gosht (€10.70) looked to be the best option in the Lamm section, with included Basmati, a decent price.

When Jonathan arrived he found Lamm Karhai (13.30) in another section. The given description meant I would have to give my usual caveat. Jonathan would play safe and chose Namaste Mixed Tikka (€14.90. More Fanta was ordered. The waitress accepted the Order for – Lamm Karhai ohne Paprika.

Three well fired Poppadoms, no Dips, had sat on the table since moments after my arrival, time to begin. With embedded Cumin Seeds, tasty, so much better than the plain variety served in the UK. A Tamarind Dip would have been a welcomed accompaniment.

A traditional German Side Salad – to share – accompanied a mass of Rice. If we were to have – foliage – then perhaps Chef could have studied that served in the Manchester Curry Cafes. This was tame. Having taken a plateful each, we were still left with enough Basmati for two more diners. The waitress said we could have more Rice if we needed it. Just how much Rice did they think would could eat?

Lamm Karhai

The aroma was pleasing. The standard Toppings of Ginger Strips and Coriander Leaves were decidedly minimal, no Chillies. The Masala had a decent viscosity and was rich in strips of cooked Onions. Had the dreaded Green Peppers not been withheld, this could have been a nightmare.

We have Seasoning – I announced, a good initial impression.

We have Spice – cough.

We have Onions – indeed, and probably too many.

The Meat was into double figures, each piece was appreciably larger than the norm. With the abundant Rice, this was quite a plateful. Well Seasoned and Spicy, the Flavours in this Curry emerged from the off. All was going well until I sampled the Meat. OK, the Meat was Tender and tasted – Meaty – however that was it. Presumably, the Lamm had been cooked in a separate pot, it had very recently met the worthy Masala. The Meat was adding nothing in terms of Spice, it became quite tiresome, uninteresting. This was simply Meat and Onions in a decent Masala, not the blend of Herbs and Spices that makes what I look for in a Curry, and as far as – Desi – goes, really? This was not a Curry commensurate with home-cooking.

Namaste Mixed Tikka

Served on a German flat pan, the waitress warned Jonathan more than once that he should not touch the very hot handle. A very – Red – Chilli Sauce smothered a mass of Onion Blobs, and Capsicum! As this was not a Curry per se, then the Green Peppers might actually have been tolerable.

The Meat was buried under the blanket of Vegetables, there was a lot of it. Chicken Tikka and Lamb Tikka appeared to dominate. At one point I watched Jonathan decant a quarter Chicken to his plate. With the Meat removed, the Vegetable coverage on the base of the pan was revealed. More Onions and Capsicum, Jonathan added Tomato and Garlic to my notes, plus Paneer which I had not spotted. Quite a feast, but too many Vegetables, Jonathan abandoned the bottom layer.

Jonathan assured me that all of the Meat was good, but that the Sauce didn’t connect. I didn’t sample any, however, if I had correctly observed the Red Chilli Sauce, then this can be too sickly sweet.

Two markedly different Dishes, we both found that the Meat and Masala did not complement each other, but from opposite perspectives. Desi – this was not.

The Bill

40.60 (£34.12) Four 0.4l glasses of Fanta in all. Sterling has gained a few cents against the Euro in recent weeks.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was given, I gave my usual spiel. When asked for my verdict I had to express the view that the Meat and Masala were strangers.

A disappointment. 

Menu extracts

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Glasgow – New Gandhi Indian Restaurant – In Search of Fish Curry

OK, there’s no denying that New Gandhi Indian Restaurant (441 Victoria Rd, Glasgow G42 8RW) is Hector’s latest project. The food is always excellent, just a matter of deciding to pay more than what the Hector has become accustomed to in the Curryland that is centred around Queens Park/Pollokshields, i.e. – The Southside.

Arriving at 14.58, I found a chap at the door vacuuming On reaching the top of the stairs, the place was in semi-darkness. New Gandhi is open all day on a Friday and Saturday, something was afoot. A young chap greeted me, there had been a function last night, I suspect that 16.00 was the intended opening time today. He told me that the kitchen was ready and it was the waiter who had been at the door, he would be with me shortly. Meanwhile a bottle of Sparkling Water (£2.20) was provided.

The Menu was brought, I still haven’t read it all, it’s the Punjabi Dishes that are of interest to the Hector. Today I was having the Fish Curry, however, Lamb Chops were also very much in mind. Could I find – Chops – on the Menu? Eventually, I found Tandoori Lamb Chops (£6.50).

*

The waiter apologised for his tardiness and took the Order. The Chops would be followed by Fish Tikka Masala (£11.95) and Mushroom Rice (£3.25). Realistically, one should be having – Bread – with Desi Curry, but having enjoyed the Mushroom Rice so much on my last visit, it had to be repeated. The waiter was surprised to see that I already had a drink. I settled down and waited for my Starter, alone in the bar room, alone in the Restaurant, or so it felt. That no other customer arrived during my stay suggested that people had other things to do today. The silly season is upon us.

Lamb Chops

One either has to give full marks for presentation or question why the business end looked so minuscule. Four Lamb Chops, well actually more like three three and a bit, sat at one end of the long plate, the Garnish and Dip occupying the remainder.

The Chops were beautifully cremated, the Tandoor was decidedly – on. These Lamb Chops were simply magnificent, burnt on the outside, cooked through, yet still still succulent inside. The full Flavour of the Tandoori Marinade hit the palate, the Spice, and the Seasoning. Yes, the Seasoning, full on, a joy to eat. These Lamb Chops were as good as the best, Lord Clive of Crawley would surely consider these a match for the wondrous Lamb Chops served at his local – Downsman Curry Club. Happy Birthday, Clive.

There was only one problem, three and a bit Chops felt too little a portion, they were gone all too soon. Not the largest of Chops, and I must compare them to the best Chops served in Glasgow until today, Akbar’s, where four Lamb Chops cost £4.45. Still, I would have to have these again.

The waiter asked if I had enjoyed them.

Just the way I like my Lamb Chops.

Excellent.

What a happy chap.

On the plus side, knowing what would follow, this portion of Lamb Chops did not fill me such that I would dread the Mains coming too soon. There was a suitable gap.

Topped with sliced Syboes, the Mushroom Rice was almost a meal in itself. This was way more than just Rice with Mushrooms, the colour was testimony to the Spices mixed in, not to have this would be a gross oversight. The portion size was well judged, enough to share, the right amount for one.

Fish Tikka Masala

Again topped with Syboes and a threat of Fresh Coriander, I marvelled at what lay before me. Chicken Tikka Masala, a Curry that only appears in this Blog when someone else orders it, yet, here was Hector having the Fish equivalent. The Menu confirmed that the – Masala Fish – was Haddock, so much better than the Fish typically served in Curry. Arranging the Fish and the Masala on the Rice, I felt there could have been more Fish for the price. Still, the ratio of Fish to Masala felt favourable. I left some of the Masala in the karahi, perhaps just to confirm that the small patches of Oil on the surface would not become excessive. I squeezed the wedge of Lemon over the Curry, a bit of Citrus is always welcome. The waiter told to me to ask for more Chillies if I required them.

The food was – Hot! – how food should be served. This was a true – Desi Fish Curry. As with the Karahi Gosht enjoyed here two weeks ago, I could taste that which took me to – The Village – all those years ago before they became an upmarket venue. This had the authentic Punjabi Flavours I seek, and in a Fish Curry. Could this be a Curry to rival the Machi Masala as served at Mother India’s Cafe? If so, then this was a truly outstanding Fish Curry, and served in Glasgow.

The Spice was there, there was no need for the extra Chillies. The Seasoning was within acceptable parameters, the Flavour of the Fish itself was not masked by the Masala. On taking the remnants of the decidedly not Oily Masala, I licked the spoon. Wow! This alone was a standout. With the distinctive Flavours from the Mushroom Rice and then the Fish, the mix was a transformation. Had I ordered Bread, the experience would have been an entirely different one, yet how could I pass on the wonderful Mushroom Rice? Next time I have this I shall have to be in the company of someone who will share Rice and Bread. By holding back some of the Masala for dipping, and still having the Fish and Masala as I had today, one could create an even bigger treat. I think Marg is due a visit to New Gandhi.

I found something hard and alien on my mouth, fearing I was about to bite into a Cardamom, it was quickly ejected. A rogue piece of Mushroom? A pity, I would have otherwise left an empty plate.

A Starter, a Main Course, the Rice, it is quite unusual to clear one’s plate, so either the portions were perfectly judged or there could have been more. Better not to waste food, so I shall cancel the negative comment.

How often have I written that it is difficult to find a decent Fish Curry in Glasgow? Today I found it.

Are you waving the flag? – asked the waiter from the bar side of the room moments after I had stopped eating. As he approached, he could not hide his pleasure. The table was cleared, the waiter said he was going to show the empty karahi, rice pot and my plate to Chef.

The Bill

£23.90 Appreciably more than comparable venues, however, I suspect the quality is guaranteed here.

The Aftermath

Even the Tandoori Chef received a mention. The kitchen staff were reportedly well pleased to see the evidence of my enjoyment.

On the bus back across the river, I messaged Danny Singh to express my pleasure of having dined once more at New Gandhi.

Thumbs up.

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