Hector ended up at Lahori Badsha (140 Cheetham Hill Rd, Manchester, England M8 8PZ) earlier in the month en route to see IQ in Bury when the impressive and adjacent Chappati Corner was found to be closed. In the interim, Chappati Corner has successfully been visited again. Today was all about securing the Fresh Lamb Karahi – in lahori style – (£24.00) and only sold by the kilo. Hector needed a Curry Buddy, John was up for it.
We arrived at 11.50, the door was opened, we saw the chairs being taken off the tops of the tables. I led John to what has become my favoured spot, two tables from the far end. There was no sign of Zak, Mein Host. Having registered the minimal English spoken by other staff members on my previous visits, I took a Menu, approached a chap behind the counter and pointed to the photo of the Lamb Karahi. The request was thankfully not declined but did cause a bit of discussion among him and his colleagues.
The offer of – Spicy? – was accepted.
Another chap came to the table to take the Bread order. John only ordered two Chapattis (£0.50), not his usual bundle. He reckoned he would see what came before committing. My attempt at ordering more than a basic Naan (£1.00) was not being entertained. A Naan it would be.
The Bread Chef sprung into action, the rolling of the dough was conducted behind the counter. I suspect both he and the person who cooked our Karahi did not expect to be called into action this early in the day. If they’re open then they should be able to cover all eventualities.
A modest Salad and a Raita were provided along with a jug of cool tap water. At 12.08, our Curry and Breads were brought to the table. I doubt if anyone else in the UK was tucking in to such a mass of Desi Karahi Gosht this early today.
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The Naan had been perforated to stop it rising, Rogni-style which is a common feature of Naan in Manchester. It looked as if it had been served whole, but was scored into quarters, acceptable. The Wholemeal Chapattis were of a decent thickness. Two proved to be enough for John, especially when a quarter of mine was passed in his direction.
Cracking Chapattis – remarked John as he ate.
Fresh Lamb Karahi – in lahori style
This was everything I was hoping for. A mass of Karahi served on-the-bone in the Thickest of Masalas. The colour was decidedly – Pale – no needless – Red. Not a – Namkeen Karahi – by any means, the Masala appeared to be too rich for that. I could see Tomato pulp. From my own cooking experience I know Tomato turns lighter when blitzed.
I used the big spoon to draw a line across the Curry. There was so much of it, I doubted if we would be fighting over the final bits.
Dera, a kilometre up the same road, serve what I regard as being the pinnacle of Curry in Manchester. Their Lamb Karahi, also served on-the-bone, has set a standard possibly for the North of England, unequalled, until today.
Today’s Fresh Lamb Karahi was as good as…
Minimal Oil was left on the base of the flat karahi after we had divvied up our first helpings. The Flavours burst onto the palate. Olive Oil? – I speculated, then the – butteriness – made me consider – Ghee. I have only ever tasted anything this distinctive on Cheetham Hill Road. The intensity of Flavour here was a joy to behold.
The Lamb was delightfully soft, clearly this had been precooked. So how they turn their base Lamb into this so quickly? We ate on, there was loads, the bone count was less than anticipated.
I uncovered four slivers of something green. I tasted one, Capsicum was more likely than Chilli. I decided that being inconspicuous they were not harming the Curry. Nothing was going to spoil Hector’s pleasure today. The Spice was there yet there was still a sense of the Curry being – mellow. Making a note on the Seasoning felt irrelevant with this much Flavour present. All was well.
John declared he was finished, as the slower eater, I had a long way to go. Usually, John would pounce on anything still going, not today. John’s appetite sated? In the end we had to leave more than a Soupçon, not enough to take away.
A tasty challenge – began John – fantastic balance of spice and flavour, up there amongst the best.
This Lamb Karahi was truly remarkable, and exactly what I was hoping for and giving something new to celebrate. That it is available at lunchtime could persuade more to join me on future visits. The Lamb Curry (£7.50), also served on-the-bone, has impressed on previous visit to Lahori Badsha. This – Lahori Lamb Karahi – is in a different league.
The Bill
£26.00 I’ll take that.
The Aftermath
A chap hovered behind the counter looking in my direction.
Did you cook it? – I asked.
There was a nod and a smile.
Well done.