Athena – Curry Garden – The Taste of Bradford Curry in Athens

Hector spent the early years of Curry-Heute wandering up and down Geraniou trying to locate the the mythical – Green Garden. That Rajdhani has been re-branded as Curry Garden (Geraniou 16, Omonia, Athena, Hellas) leads me to conclude that it was here all along. Maybe one day someone will confirm. Google stats show that Greece has the highest readership of Curry-Heute by nation, so somebody out there must know the answer.

As I approached Curry Garden, camera in hand, a chap sitting in the doorway called out to me:

Come in, very good Curry.

That was a first in this part of Athena. This was Mein Host who then took the time to lead me through the Curry on display. After the excesses of the past couple of days, I had something light in mind, an Aloo Gobi would have been ideal. When he pointed to the Lamb on-the-bone, I said – Karahi Gosht – that was it. I had turned down Beef Biryani, Chicken Biryani and Vegetables. On asking for Bread I was offered – Oily Bread. This was declined, Mein Host was persistent. He used another term which I got hold of…

Paratha! yes please.

He suggested two, I insisted on one.

A young waiter brought two small bottles of Still Water and glasses.

As we waited I consulted a well known and reliable Curry Website, I had just ordered exactly the same as last time in these premises. That was Rajdhani, this was Curry Garden, a comparison may be required.

The food all arrived together, once again a more than adequate Salad was part of the spread: Onions, Carrots, Cucumber, Olives and a menacing large Green Chilli. This time there would be no heroics, I would nibble at the Chilli, adding the – extra bite – as required. This was my third Athena Curry with Olives this trip, it has not gone unnoticed that the quality of Olives I have been served greatly surpasses the quality served in the Greek Restaurants I have frequented.

Paratha

The Paratha Police did not have to be summoned, this was as good a Paratha as one can get. All of Hector’s boxes were ticked: served whole, soft, layered, flaky, and it had been made from White Chapatti Flour, not Wholemeal. It was also a sensible size, and had well fired areas, the Bread of the last two days has been so lightly cooked. This was a – Paratha.

Karahi Gosht

The appearance was the very definition of this Curry. The Masala was enough to shroud the Meat which of course was served on-the-bone. Beneath the Meat were traces of Oil and Masala, this was as – Dry – a Curry as one could hope for.

Astonishing!

Once more Hector had found another Curry of which songs will be sung. This was truly spectacular, was I in Bradford? It certainly tasted like a Bradford Curry. Surma was the only Athena Curry House to ever draw this accolade, Curry Garden, note the venue and no need to write a comparison with Rajdhani, this was in a different league.

The Dark Brown Masala had probably been blended, the Flavours were immense. I could see no evidence of Herbs, however, there must have been Methi in there. No Curry could surely taste like this without it.

The Chilli did its job, the Seasoning was exactly as I would have it. The Meat did taste a bit – Fatty – at times, no gristle was encountered. At the price being charged one cannot expect Shoulder of Spring Lamb. Regardless of this minor criticism, the Meat was still Tender, nothing was going to detract from my enjoyment of this Outstanding Curry.

The quantity of Meat was nearer twenty pieces than ten, that it was on-the-bone was just as well else I probably would never have managed to finish it. Because the Salad had so many – Interesting – components these had to be addressed also. Hector was in his element, Marg helped ensure that nothing was left. Praise be to Marg who was sitting there patiently, watching Hector indulge himself once more. Way better than an omelette which was Marg’s choice for brunch elsewhere.

The young waiter had done his duty throughout and checked all was well. Where was Mein Host?

The Bill

10.50 (£9.21) Comparable to the Curry Cafes of Glasgow, Manchester and Bradford.

The Aftermath

It was one of the Chefs who took the cash. On showing the photos of Rajdhani he confirmed that despite the change of name, the people were the same. The Chefs were more than happy to pose for what came out as quite a surreal photo, then Mein Host reappeared. The photographic ritual was complete.

We were offered complimentary Dessert, Tea, anything virtually. The offers were declined, why spoil the wonderful flavours that would linger long on the palate?

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Athena – Pak Tikka Shop – Grill House – … and an update on other Athens Curry Houses

Two Curry Houses, metres apart, similar names, they must be connected. Hector Holmes was once again on the case. After last night’s truly magnificent meal at Pak Taka Tak, today it was the turn of Pak Tikka Shop – Grill House (Sapfous 5, Athina 105 53). I did stick my nose in here back in 2017 when I first spotted this venue and managed to secure some photos of the prepared Curry. Expectations were therefore high.

Marg took a seat at the long table nearest the counter, I went up to investigate. A chap came over to talk me through the Dishes on display. I had already spotted the Boiled Eggs sat in a Masala but could see no Meatballs.

Kofta Anda? – I asked, rhetorically.

This was confirmed, how could Hector refuse this favourite?

Karela – the chap continued – You know Karela?

It was my turn to make an affirmative statement.

Beef Curry – he told me was the third Dish on offer.

I love Kofta Anda – well I do, and I had to tell him.

One portion please with Bread.

Marg was intent on having nothing but succumbed to her usual nibble of choice whilst Curry spectating. A Samosa was ordered, with the emphasis on – one.

A Salad with Raita on the same plate was presented, not as elaborate as round the corner at Pak Taka Tak, but enough to make the Samosa a lunch. A large bottle of chilled Still Water was provided as a matter of course.

Lovely, flaky, tasty – was Marg’s report on the Samosa.

I concluded it was a Vegetable Samosa.

*

*

*

Kofta Anda

Inevitably – is that all? – was my first reflection on seeing only two Kofta and one Boiled Egg being served. It was a little over twelve hours since last night’s feast, this would do for a lunch.

The Bread

Served whole, this was closer to a Naan than had been served at Pak Taka Tak, yet still retained some of the properties of proper Middle Eastern Pitta. This Bread was delightfully soft, it was well received and every morsel was eaten.

The first dip of the Bread into the Masala took me aback – cough. This was a powerful Tomato-based Masala, there was a lot of it, so the Bread would be put to good use. The Seasoning matched the Spice Level, this was an old fashioned tasting Masala. A Bay Leaf and Black Cardamom were revealed, the taste of Cloves hit the palate, very pleasant.

I basically smashed the Egg into bits to eke it out. Egg in Curry, it works so well. The Kofta were broken up also, I had something resembling a wet Keema. The Meatballs lacked Seasoning, the only negative in this meal once I came to terms that next time I would order two portions.

The chap was over to check all was well and enquire if we required anything else.

All was indeed well, I love Kofta Anda and this was a fine example of the genre.

As I finished, Marg spotted a table of – Greeks – at the doorway. They had wine on the table. So they operate – BYOB – here we concluded.

The Bill

6.00 (£5.22) Not as ridiculously cheap as Pak Taka Tak, but who can complain about these prices?

The Aftermath

On showing the photos from last time, I asked our Waiter if this venue was related to Pak Taka Tak. Same owner – he confirmed, so that’s three houses within metres of each other. Is someone playing Monopoly?

He went on to tell me that there is a difference in the two houses: 

Here is  less spicy, the other one is spicy.

As we departed, so one of the – Greeks – was at the door maintaining the clean air in the restaurant. Meet Paul from Derbyshire who has been over here for some thirty years.

You didn’t come all this way for a Curry? – he asked when I gave him a Calling Card..

Well Bier and Curry. We eat Greek Cuisine at night.

Curry-Heute was introduced. Paul remarked that we were the only tourists he had ever seen in this part of Athens, acknowledging that some could be put off by the – ethnic buzz. The column of Curry Houses visited down the right side of this website proves that Hector and Marg have travelled.

Thereafter we headed towards the throng that is Geraniou. En route I spotted a new venue – Makkah Restaurant – the chaps clustered outside there were very obliging and got out of the way to let me take my photos.

On Geraniou itself, Surma, where I once had a Curry matching anything served in Bradford, has gone. Rajdhani has been re-branded as – Curry Garden. The fabled  – Green Garden – Curry House in this locale is one I have been trying to locate for years. Another case for Hector Holmes. Metres from our accommodation back in Psiri, Indian Tandoori Masala is now Buddha. All change.

I realise that I do not have enough Curry opperchancities to cover all of these venues on this trip. I must try and get back to Taste of India. So it goes.

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Athena – Pak Taka Taka – I’m coming here everyday for breakfast, lunch, and dinner!

Hector and Marg are back in Athena after two excellent nights in Heraklion (Crete) being entertained by Dimitris at Crop Roastery. Two days of Greek Cuisine, although Curry was an option. That I didn’t rush back to Curry Park should say everything, though I did manage to keep Curry-Heute up to date by recording their new locus.

Instead of our usual hotel in Plaka which has priced itself out of our budget, we are resident in the adjacent Psyri. Our accommodation is only one hundred steps from Beertime on Iroon Square where we end up most evenings. This also means we are a matter of minutes from the cluster of Curry Houses which are located immediately north of Psyri and immediately west of the Central Municipal Athens Market. This can be quite a dodgy area, however, we have experienced no hassle here in our years of visiting, whereas, travelling by tram in Athena is another story.

Having made ourselves known at Beertime once again, we headed through the backstreets to Pak Taka Tak Restaurant (Pl. Theatrou 24, Athina 105 52), arriving at 19.30. As always, Paka Taka Tak was quite busy and we would be the only Westerners on the premises. We took seats at the end of a table for eight, a chap at the far end would finish shortly, though the next diners would plonk themselves right beside us. We were all here for the food, the ambience may never win prizes, but the current premises are still – grand – compared to the original which I note is still being used as a store for this and the other premises.

Our Waiter looked sort of familiar, this would be explained later. He brought the simple Menu and a large bottle of chilled Still Water with glasses. The Menu was the same as on our last visit over two years ago, which means the exceptionally low prices had not increased. We were in for a treat.

On my previous three visits, the Karahi Gosht (€4.00) has impressed. Impressed may be an understatement. Our visits have been at lunchtime so Marg has had her usual Samosa, tonight she would have a main course. Marg considered the – Chicken options – then almost pounced on Keema Matar (€4.00). An Aloo Gobi (€3.00) would have made an excellent accompaniment, however, our Waiter informed us that they only had – Indian Vegetables. I took this to be Mix Vegetable (€3.00) so ordered this. I asked for Naan, Marg for a Chapatti. Bread is not written on the Menu at Pak Taka Taka. On previous visits we have ended up refusing more Naan such is the quantity they try to serve, and included in the price of the meal. UK Restaurateurs please note, and especially those in Aberdoom!

In the interim I studied the photos of the staff on the Pak Taka Tak page on Curry-Heute. Indeed, the Waiter did look familiar, the beard was maybe different. The Chef was the same, so genuine Punjabi Fayre would be maintained.

The food arrived, somehow all at once. What a banquet.

The Salad was more complex than the Greek Salads we had been paying for in Greek Restaurants in the past two days. I noted the Raita as being a – lake – such was the quantity on the plate. Three karahi were brought which did puzzle, it took me a moment or two to realise that karahi #3 was the Indian Vegetables, served seemingly in the same Masala as the Karahi Gosht. A plateful of Bread accompanied. Dear Reader, I now have to try and do this meal justice.

The Bread

Three pieces of very light, round and fluffy Bread were piled on the plate. Each had been quartered, for once this did not feel like an issue. These were not the Naans that the chaps next to us would be served momentarily. Theirs were well fired, and approaching – Rogni – in style. Ours were more akin to the Pitta that I have always enjoyed in Israel/Egypt and a far cry from the rubbish that masquerades as Greek Pitta in UK supermarkets. The Bread was a delight, so Fresh, and would work well with both the copious Raita and the Masala. Eleven of the twelve quarters would be eaten, only a scrap would remain.

Karahi Gosht

Just look at how much Meat there is, and served on-the-bone. The pedigree of the blended Masala was glaringly obvious, this was decidedly Rich in appearance. For some there may have been too much Oil, Hector knows that herein lies – the Flavour.

Bloody hell – was my almost involuntary tourettes exclamation. This was everything I had hoped for, authentic Karahi Gosht, no frills, exactly how I would imaging it being served in the eateries of Lahore. The Meat was well into double figures, the bones were mostly ribs. Tender, of course, so well cooked and no sign of – Meat Pulp.

There was instant gratification, every mouthful thereafter was yet another joyous moment. The balance of Spice and Seasoning matched the Hector palate, when I tackled the whole Green Chilli so the odds were raised, and very much against me. From where had this Chilli originated? Wow!

I’m coming here everyday for breakfast, lunch, and dinner! – I proclaimed.

Yet, this was only part of the meal.

Indian Vegetables

Having been told in effect that there were no Potatoes or Cauliflower in the house, we were at the mercy of what came. Turnip was my first guess when I saw the karahi. Marg got in there first and dismissed this. Ah, Khadu, it had to be, and much more than I would ever add to a Curry. Having dipped the Bread in to establish that the Masala matched that in the Karahi Gosht, I had no qualms about decanting spoonfuls of the Vegetable to the side of my Gosht. Having always preferred to have more than just Meat and Masala this was working well. There’s more.

Marg had been tackling the Salad also, I was encouraged to take pieces of Tomato then the glorious pickled Chillies. I love these, and could eat them all the time. The Green Olives were stuffed with Red Chillies in the classic style. Olives add such a new dimension to a Curry, they should really be served up more often in the UK.

Hector had a magnificent Karahi Gosht, a Vegetable Side, a worthy Salad, the finest of Breads, all that was left was to sample a Soupçon of Marg’s – Keema Matar.

Keema Matar

OK, there was an Oily slick to one side of the karahi, yet this did not put Marg off. With skill, she was able to remove the Mince and Peas and leave much of the Oil such at the end it sat on the base of the karahi.

I had my Soupçon, Chef had not held back here. The Spice and Seasoning were full on. Cinnamon was sensed on the Hector plate, this was markedly different from the Karahi Gosht, and as such should tempt me back for lunch here on this trip.

Marg had her say:

I was hungry and I loved the spice and the texture, it was so easy to eat, full of flavour. One of the best Keema Mutter I have ever had. Very rich, there was a lot of flavour in the sauce, some are very – mincy. I ate everything.

I don’t normally post photos of – The Bill – that once being the prerogative of the other Glasgow Curry Bloggers, whatever happened to them? I went up to pay.

The Bill

12.00 (£10.53) There’s the proof. Is this not the best value for outstanding Curry – anywhere?

The Aftermath

That’s my brother – explained the Waiter who looked so familiar, as I showed photos of the staff from previous visits. That’s him – said the waiter pointing to a group sat near the door. A chap was summoned. The original crew were more or less reunited. It was they who insisted that Chef have another photo taken, his assistant had to get in on the act. The Calling Card was given once more, just to remind all who this Hector is.

If people are put off by the district, then go in daylight hours, but for Curry Lovers to miss the Curry at Pak Taka Tak, and the other nearby venues, would be incredible.

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Manchester – Dera – One Night in the City

Hector and Marg are in Manchester for one night en route to, well wait and see. Plusbus – tickets were arranged at the time of purchasing our rail tickets to facilitate the journey up Cheetham Hill Road to Dera (433 Cheetham Hill Rd, Manchester, M8 OPF). Dera has consistently proved to be the source of the most outstanding Curry in Manchester. Dera are in a league of their own, well above the Fast-food Curry Cafes of the Northern Quarter, and the Mainstream Curry Houses which prevail across the city, including the so called – Curry Mile – in Rusholme.

There’s no need to take Hector’s word for it, Rizwan, Mein Host at Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1LQ England) confirmed that statement this very evening. After a late afternoon coffee, Marg and Hector were able to drop by Kabana at 17.30, just as Rizwan was closing up. This was the first time he appreciated who Marg is, as her visits are fewer, and she tends to only have Samosas at lunchtime when Hector is indulging himself. Rizwan confirmed that Dera serves something special in comparison to his own fayre. However I reminded him that the quality of Curry served at Kabana has been getting better and better on every visit in the last two years. Rizwan puts this down to sourcing- Lamb Shoulder. Rizwan took the opperchancity to tell Marg what he has been telling me in our post meal chats – that customers are flocking to Kabana having read the reviews on Curry-Heute. Rizwan would also like to do a tour of the Curry Houses around the country (and beyond?) which Hector recommends. Respect.

We discussed what appears to be a new – Curry Mile – developing in the north of Manchester stretching from Ancoats up Cheetham Hill Road. Rizwan agreed that the original – Curry Mile – has so few Curry Houses compared to years gone by. An imbalance in favour of – Grill Houses – serving Kebap and not Curry has evolved in Rusholme. In the new axis, there is a cluster of Curry Cafes, including a second Kabana on Cheetham Hill Rd beside the well established Bukhara. Adjacent to Kabana #2 is a Persian Restaurant – Darbar – which also has yet to be visited, plus the three more venues across the road which have been reviewed on Curry-Heute.

Arriving at Dera @19.30, it was Marg’s turn to ride the tractor. One isn’t meant to, but why else is it there? How was your journey, my friend? – was the greeting by the Manager at Dera. Visits here may only average a couple of times a year, but unless it is a young waiter who serves, Hector is always recognised.

It has been some time since we sat in the main dining room, recent visits have meant sitting in the small room to the left on entry. Only three other tables were occupied on this quiet Monday evening.

What sort of menu is this? – remarked Marg on seeing the layout with numbers following the name of each Dish.

The Menu had not fundamentally changed since my last visit, the half kilo portions of Karahi were still available at acceptable prices. Eventually I realised that the added numbers referred to – food allergies – as outlined in the key. Tonight Hector would have Zaitoon Lamb Karahi (£13.95), Olive Oil would be used in its preparation.

The – 6 – referred to – Dairy. This acknowledges the dessert spoon of Yoghurt which gets added just before serving. Having spotted Garlic Naan (£1.95) as the only alternative to Plain, I asked for – no Garlic, but Chilli and Coriander instead. This was acceptable though Mein Host did insist that Marg have some of this.

Having missed out on Lamb Chops in our recent outings, Marg opted for these. Grilled Chops (£6.95) would come as a portion of four. On the front of the new Menu under – While you wait – is – Poppadom (2pcs) with chutney tray – (£1.95). Marg ordered these also and asked that her Grilled Chops be served at the same time as my Karahi.

Mein Host brought a Salad and two Dips – Tamarind and Raita. Mein Host explained that Tamarind is a worthy accompaniment with Fish. I declared that I wished I could be here for two days and enjoy the Masala Fish Boneless (£8.95). Perhaps on my planned return in January I may remember to try this.

Four Poppadoms arrived, Marg sent two back knowing that I would not necessarily be interested. These were accompanied by Spiced Onions and Mango Chutney. I did sample the Spiced Onions with a piece of Poppadom. The Onions were very Fresh and indeed Spicy, the Poppadoms were Limp, Stale almost. The Bottle of Tap Water which had been brought was also tepid, dubious, I should have bought Sparkling Water.

Mein Host announced that the Grilled Chops would arrive before the Lamb Karahi. He may have given a reason, this was not understood. When eight Lamb Chops were presented I got the drift. Given the saga of Lamb Chops in our recent visits to Akbar’s (Glasgow), it was quite ironic that Hector would have no choice but to help Marg out. I would limit myself to two, Marg would have six Lamb Chops!

Grilled Chops

The long bones made the Meat element of the Lamb Chops appear to be – small. In fact these Lamb Chops were smaller and thinner than the standard. They were excellent, the Spice and Seasoning were all one could hope for. The Charcoal was full on, I ate one as served, then another with Raita as Marg was enthusing about this combination:

Well it’s lovely, and the mint sauce goes perfectly with a bit of mango.

Marg ate six Lamb Chops, what had Hector done? This was her main course, Marg presently accepts it’s either Chops or Curry.

Chilli and Coriander Naan

The – foliage – had been cooked in. Some perforations were visible, enough to stop the Bread rising, a step towards – Rogni Naan. It’s a Manchester thing. The Naan had been halved which is always a source of frustration, why cut up Bread? The overall size was sensible, one could eat just about all of this Naan, so very little wastage.

Zaitoon Lamb Karahi

Topped with Chilli and Coriander, I counted fifteen pieces of Meat and could see three big bones. The Masala looked so inviting, no surface Oil was visible. This truly was a Lamb Karahi – a cut above the rest.

Hector knew why he was here. The most Tender of Lamb complemented the most Flavoursome Masala, every mouthful would be a joy. I had wondered if Olives would be visible, but then concluded the – Zaitoon – element was simply the Oil, which still was not gathering. Marg had to assist:

There’s a tanginess to it.

That had not registered on my palate, we all react differently.

The Masala was delightfully – Thick – the Spice Level never became silly, even when the Chillies from both Curry and Naan kicked in. The Coriander did its job, every mouthful of this Lamb Karahi was a joy. The Lamb was Tender, but still required some chewing. As I studied the Masala so I could see the Tomato Seeds in the base and sensed the presence of Meat Pulp. This had everything. The three big bones were finally tackled. The taste of Lamb from each of these was outstanding. At the end I had to photograph the remnants, justice had been done to this meal.

The Bill

£30.75 The Naan had been billed as Rogni, and we were charged for both portions of Grilled Chops having only asked for one.

The Aftermath

Another family were at the counter as we departed, so farewells were brief. If one is in Manchester, one simply has to try – Dera.

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Glasgow – Kebabish Grill – Probably worth the price

I know that many people in Glasgow’s Asian community hold Kebabish Grill (323–325 Victoria Road, Glasgow, G42 7SA) in the highest regard. Whilst having enjoyed my previous visits, I felt their Curry lacked the – Wow! – factor to have me visit regularly. I was invited, twice, to their re-opening night earlier this year after the fire of 2017 closed the premises for over a year. I was abroad for the first scheduled evening which was postponed. The invitation for the second date was not found until too late, so it goes.

It was Dr. Stan who instigated today’s Curry to appease The Man from Bradford who is his house guest. In the end The Rickmeister didn’t show. The arranged time was 15.30, I arrived a few minutes before and had time to study the Menu in detail. The prices were the first thing I noted, ambitious, but Kebabish Grill is a restaurant unlike the Curry Cafes off Victoria Rd. I had glanced at the Takeaway Menu as I entered, the Takeaway prices were £2.00 less for main courses. In the Main Menu, prices have gone up by typically £3.00 for a main course since I was last here in 2016.

Previously I have described how customers at Kebabish Grill were sat in a cluster, today the pattern was linear. We were all sat along the edge of the raised seating area, though one window table was allocated not long before our departure. In terms of décor, the premises have been restored, I could see little difference from what was before other than booth seating along the window.

The Menu features – Old School / Traditional Dishes. Hector was more interested in the Chef’s Specials. Here were many favourites including Desi Karahi Gosht (on the bone) at a whopping £12.95. Above this was Namkeen Gosht (£12.95), I wondered if this had to be ordered in advance as is the case in the handful of Glasgow venues which offer this Afghani Curry. As soon as Dr. Stan picked up the Menu, his first utterance captured the moment:

Quite expensive.

Dr. Stan’s selection today was Methi Gosht (£11.95) accompanied by a Garlic Roti (£2.25). Had Ricky turned up, he would have had a lot to say about the price of Bread. For Hector, a Chilli Nan (£3.50), I was not going to risk being charged more for having Coriander added. The Waiter confirmed that the Namkeen Karahi was readily available, this is a first in Glasgow. Had it not been, Indian Mixed Vegetables (£8.95) may well have been my choice today. I was impressed at seeing Methi and Karela featuring prominently in certain Dishes.

Tap water was asked for, this was presented in a flashy bottle. We would drink from crystal glasses, very pukka. The Waiter brought an elaborate Salad and two Dips. He then asked if we wished Spiced Onions and Poppadoms. These were declined. At these prices they should surely have been provided. If they were complimentary, then he should have said so. Stan tackled the Salad, Hector is off Salad this week.

During our wait, I saw two Naans covered with a mass of I don’t know what, being taken back to the kitchen. The Hector wished that one could go and investigate what the problem was.

The Bread

The Garlic Roti was unlike anything I have encountered. Large, Wet and Puffy, one would most certainly be enough. This Roti would surely not turn to – crisp. The Chilli Nan was certainly more than I could ever eat. It too was puffy/fluffy. The interior was a mass of evenly spread Green Chillies. Red Chilli flakes had been sprinkled on top. I wasn’t going to miss my blast of Coriander, this was an excellent Naan.

Methi Gosht

The Waiter placed this in front of me, I had time to observe the Dark, Thick and very Rich looking Masala before sliding it across the table to Dr. Stan.

Quite a lot of meat – confirmed Dr. Stan. The price was starting to look justified.

I enjoyed it, good solid spiciness, plenty of Methi, tender meat, probably worth the price – were Dr. Stan’s eloquent words for today. I like when he humours me.

Namkeen Gosht

Coriander Leaves topped the palest of Curry. Namkeen is unlike any other Curry, nothing – Red – goes in, typically just Salt, Pepper and Chillies. Shorva-esque – was my first observation, the Masala did look to be quite – Thin – at the start, this I had to revise as I got into the Curry. The abundant Meat was served in large Chunks and was on-the-bone. This had the makings of – quite a Curry.

One has to adjust the palate when having Namkeen, it is Curry, but nothing like the traditional fayre of the Indian subcontinent. The Lamb had been slow cooked to perfection. This was beyond tender but far from pulp. Dipping the Naan into the Masala presented a series of joyful moments, the Chillies added more Spice to that which was already in the Curry. The Flavours were spot on, this was as good a Namkeen Karahi as I have experienced.

The pieces of Meat were too large to pick up, I had to break the flesh off with the spoon. There was a lot of it, this portion certainly justified the price. The bones and cartilage were set aside. As I got deeper into the Dish so the Masala became visibly Thicker, more Peppery even, with Tomato Seeds to the fore. Whole cloves of Garlic and Large Green Chillies were buried in there. I kept the – sucky bone – to the end. When I got up this morning I had no idea that I would be eating Namkeen, this was a very pleasant surprise. Chef should be proud of this creation.

The Bill

£30.65 Not too silly, but around the corner at Yadgar we could have had this and Starters for the same price, but no crystal glasses.

The Aftermath

This was only my third visit to Kebabish Grill in the time of Curry-Heute. I introduced myself to Mein Host, praised the food, then set about taking photos of the restaurant. As we were preparing to leave I became aware that the chap sitting at the window needed a napkin, Hector-the-provider was on the case. This gave the opperchancity to study his Peshwari Naan (£3.50) which was covered in a mass of Nuts. Marg would love this. She certainly appreciated the ambience when she was here three years ago. I think I have been sold on Kebabish Grill. When – The Carnoustie Two – next visit, this will have to be the venue. 

Menu extracts

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Glasgow – Basharat G’z – One Month Later

I promised not to return to Basharat G’z (223-225 Allison Street, Glasgow, G42 8RU) for at least two weeks having visited three times in the eight days after the launch of this new Southside Curry Cafe. At least Basharat G’z has survived the month since my last visit, which is more than the previous incarnation of Curry House managed in these premises.

Ricky, The Man from Bradford, is in Glasgow for a few days, there shall be at least one Curry. The first choice of venue had to be Basharat G’z. Ricky is as keen as Hector to try new places in the hope of finding that – something special. Having been thoroughly impressed by the half kilo of Lamb Karahi (£12.00) and previously taken four other friends to share the experience, Hector was confident that this would impress The Rickmeister.

We arrived just after 15.00, a young chap I didn’t recognise was behind the counter. When Abbas saw us in the dining area, the warmth of greeting was such that one felt like a regular. This was only Visit #4. Basharat, Mein Host and Chef, was summoned to prepare the Order. Introductions were made. Basharat appeared not to know that Bradford is still – The Curry Capital of the UK, he does now.

You’re under no pressure – I put to him.

It is about time Glasgow regained the title, we have a much greater diversity of Flavours. However, the Curry Houses chosen to represent us are not the ones Hector would select. Surely someone who has eaten in every Curry House in Glasgow, bar about five presently, should be consulted?

Ricky insisted on having his Karahi Gosht without bones, Hector would optimise the event by having the more authentic – on-the-bone. Abbas predicted – Chilli-Coriander Naan (£3.00) – for Hector knowing that this was perfected on my last visit. After Ricky figuratively picked himself off the floor at the prospect of actually having to pay for Bread, he ordered a Garlic Naan (£2.80). As shall be further exemplified at the end of this month, many Bradford Curry Houses regard Rice/Chapattis/Naan as a necessary, and therefore free, inclusion.

Those who were present on our arrival soon departed, what had they been up to? They were quickly replaced by a family with young children, one of whom decided that constantly kicking the bench seat was mandatory. Every kick reverberated into my back. No enforcement of discipline here, and much discomfort for Hector.

Abbas brought the food, he was already apologising for the size of the Naans, they should have been larger. What we saw, suited us both. Small Naan (£1.00) – says the Menu.

The Breads

The Chilli and Coriander Naan was halfway to becoming the Rogni style having perforations across the centre, and being – puffy – only around the periphery. There was ample filling, a delightful Naan. A scrap would be left over.

The Garlic Naan had suitably risen and was puffy throughout. For those who enjoy a Garlic overdose, this looked just the job.

A Salad was provided, this remained untouched. Had it been brought earlier, we would have nibbled.

Lamb Karahi

An excess of Oil was a feature of my first visits here, this has been taken on board. The amount of Oil in the Karahi was well judged, some is necessary else the full Flavours of the Curry are not going to be revealed. We therefore both had ideal Lamb Karahi, abundant Meat, Minimal and Thick Masala. It’s all therefore about what happens next.

Ricky was positive from the start. The first mouthful should be that special moment.

You’re back on form – was Ricky’s complimentary comment aimed in my direction. This Lamb Karahi was streets ahead of the last two new venues I had taken him to namely the commendable Namak Mandi, and the somewhat quirky Shinwari Restaurant nearby.

Excellent Curry – continued Ricky.

Basharat was out from the kitchen to check that all was well. Well of course it was, he understands what a Karahi Gosht is. The Spice and Seasoning were well pitched, therefore the distinctive Flavours were to the fore. One could identify this from a line of Karahi Gosht if such a contest was ever set up.

Every member of staff came to check on our progress and ask if there was anything else we required. Given that Basharat G’z is primarily a Takeaway, this was service.

Comparing today’s meal with the Takeaway that Ricky bought in Partick last night:

Halfway, I’ve now got twice as much meat left as I had (in total) yesterday.

Ah, the joy of the half kilo. Hector’s pile of bones grew. A Lamb Chop was encountered. On-the-bone is always more Flavoursome than Boneless, yet Ricky wanted to maximise the amount of Meat on his plate. I knew I could manage what lay before me, in the end, Ricky had to abandon three pieces of Lamb.

*

The Bill

£29.80 We were charged the full price for our – Small Naans.

The Aftermath

As I bade farewell, I took photos of the ready dishes. Chicken aside, enough here to tempt one to just drop in and take what is on offer.

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Glasgow – Mother India’s Cafe – Open as advertised, unlike…

Once again Hector finds himself at Mother India’s Cafe (1355 Argyle St, Glasgow, G3 8AD because Banana Leaf (76B, Old Dumbarton Rd, Glasgow, G3 8RE) around the corner failed to open at the time previously told verbally to Hector, and as advertised on Google Maps. We arrived at 13.30, one hour after the best known opening time.

Tardiness has been experienced with increasing frequency, and not just in Glasgow, such that – Opening Times – has been added to – The Curry-Heute Campaign. People plan their day around the published business hours, then  travel to find the premises closed. Does one then hang about in the faint hope that someone might open up soon? Lord Clive of Crawley was looking forward to some South Indian Cuisine once again in Glasgow, alas not to be.

It is over five years since Hector and Clive dined together at Mother India’s Cafe. Having reminded him that this is a Tapas Restaurant, we set about making our choices. For Hector, there always has to be Machi Masala (£5.80), Clive was happy to have this also. Having dismissed – Today’s Specials – the – Lamb Saag (£6.20) would be my partner Curry. It was only at the time of writing I realised that Clive chose the same accompaniment as five years agoMethi Keema Mutter (£5.95).

No, Clive, there’s no Keema Naan or Keema Paratha.

Clive settled for a Garlic Nan (£2.25). Being in a somewhat belligerent mood, The Paratha Police were called into play (£2.15). A large bottle of Sparkling Water (£4.15) completed the Order.

On serving the water, Kathryn, our delightful waitress, found a coffee bean in Clive’s glass. The glass was whisked away, a replacement provided along with a small bottle of Sparkling Water. The brands differed, Kathryn wondered for a moment if that could make a difference. It was all Scottish water, no problem.

The main dining room was nearly full, it was good to see so many people out having early afternoon Curry, as it Hector’s wont. Perhaps some may read this Blog and be tempted to cross the River Clyde where Curry Disneyland is to be found?

Warm plates were brought to the table. We waited. The manager noticed that we had been waiting for quite a few minutes more. The now cold plates were replaced with even hotter plates just before the serving of the food. I’ll admit, one does not usually get service like this in my preferred Southside Curry Cafes.

The Breads

Both Breads were served whole, this adds greatly to the pleasure thus permitting one to – break bread. This is more than a hangover from Chapatti John’s mentioning of – loaves and fishes – last evening at Akbar’s. Bread should be served hot and whole, we were both impressed so far.

The Paratha was layered and flaky and showed signs of the central – swirl. This was the – Perfect Paratha, however, Hector had planned an even better one today at Banana Leaf where, depending on the Chef, they are made with White Chapatti Flour, not Wholemeal as at Mother India’s Cafe. The Paratha Police made no arrests today.

Machi Masala

Today’s looked to be a bit more – orange – than that which has been my staple diet here since they opened. On looking back at the photos over the nearly ten years of Curry-Heute, this is borne out. The – Battered Fish – is thankfully a thing of the past.

Four decent sized pieces of Fish were coated in the Masala. Beyond that, the Masala was far from excessive. The Spice Level was fine, however, the Seasoning was below the expected level, a feature of Fish Curry that baffles when found to be so. There was a blast of Clove which took me by surprise.

Lost its potency – was noted. What I have frequently described as the – Best Fish Curry I have found in Glasgow – lacked the bite, the Citrus was missing. Where was the wedge of Lemon? Still, Mother India’s Cafe may well retain its accolade. It is difficult to find outstanding Fish Curry in Glasgow. If only Banana Leaf did a – Fish Chettinad.

Lamb Saag

Six pieces of Tender Meat sat in the Dark, Thick Masala. Three of the pieces were substantially larger than the norm. For Tapas, this matched many a Southside Curry Cafe portion. Strands of Spinach had been stirred through the Masala, no doubt some Saag/Palak had been cooked in also.

The Earthy Flavour was very pleasant but as Hector can somehow remember the tastes of yesteryear, this was not matching the memory of what was once served here. Still, I would certainly have this again.

Methi Keema MutterThe very definition of Dry Curry – is what I noted. Clive chose to decant both Dishes to his plate and so alternated between the Fish and the Mince, very strange. He ate every piece of the impressive Naan, that is if one likes Naan dripping with Garlic.

That was really good, both of them – was Clive’s concluding statement.

The Bill

£32.20       On the Southside, one can usually get much more Curry for one’s Buck.

The Aftermath

There was a delay of a few minutes after settling – The Bill. There was still a lot of Sparkling Water to consume.

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Glasgow – Akbar’s – Five go Dining

A second visit to Akbar’s (573-581 Sauchiehall Street G3 7PQ) in four weeks? Hector and Marg are becoming regulars. Lord Clive of Crawley is in Scotland. This is Clive’s third evening but only his first Curry, Hector Curry-Heute may be losing his touch.

Uber John ferried Clive and Hector to Akbar’s from the nearby Grunting Growler, meanwhile Dr. Stan walked. Marg was late for the 18.00 rendezvous. Imran, Mein Host, was at the door to greet. Naveed was once again allocated as our – Waiter for the evening. We were shown to a table in the middle of the main dining area. The policy appears to be: fill this up, then open the raised seating area.

This isn’t like the places you usually take me to – remarked Clive who realised that this venue was a cut above the Curry Cafes which Hector mostly supports.

Naveed was keen to take a Drinks order, Hector was keen to stall until Marg arrived. Clive would follow Hector’s lead, this being his first visit to the Bradford Curry Franchise in Glasgow. There would have to be Lamb Chops (£4.45) which may be the best value presently available, anywhere. I envisaged ordering three portions given Marg’s propensity to purloin one of mine. Marg arrived just in time to veto this. She would have a Poppadom (£0.75) with the accompanying Pickle Tray (£1.50) though Mango Chutney was all she required. Clive and John decided a Poppadom was also necessary. Hector bit his tongue, paying for Poppadoms and Dips, aaargh.

Dr. Stan chose his customary Seekh Kebab to start, John could not resist the Mixed Kebab (£5.25) to which he would add the first of his two glasses of Red Wine (£4.25).  If what was served was a – large glass – I’d hate to see a small one.

It has been a while since I had the Roshan Lal (£10.45), Clive would have the same. John and Dr. Stan opted for safe ground – Karahi Gosht and Spinach, they too have had this before. At £8.95 one has to wonder why this is appreciably less than the Roshan Lal. Marg, who was still playing catchup, repeated her choice from a few weeks agoKarahi Gosht (£8.45). Again, check the price, the Mains are excellent value.

Naveed remembered the – no Capsicum – instruction. Asian Style – was requested by all, even Marg who found her Karahi Gosht to be – too Spicy – last time. John would limit himself to four Chapattis (£0.75), Dr. Stan and Marg would have one each. Extra Bread was guaranteed as Hector once again went for the Coriander and Chilli Nan (£2.85). Clive went overboard by ordering his favourite – Keema Nan (£3.50). This would be a first appearance of Keema Nan on Curry-Heute.

John had his Wine, the rest of us settled for Tap Water, one way to keep – The Bill – rock bottom.

The Poppadoms and Dips arrived, everyone except Hector took part in the frenzy. I’m not playing this game. Anyway, Hector was keeping the palate clear for the Lamb Chops, four, and the Hector was having four. Marg had made her choice.

Lamb Chops

Hot & Sizzling, I followed the stereophonic effect as they were brought from my right to the left of the table. I’ll try not to dwell on the fact that the garnish always has Capsicum despite my clarity re the Mains. Four well fired Lamb Chops, last time they disappointed, not tonight. These were back on form, as Succulent as required. The tongue tingled, the Spice was right there, even the Seasoning was noted.

I watched Clive take care of his portion, I knew what would be said at the end:

Not quite The Downsman (Crawley).

But half the price – I retorted.

These were excellent Lamb Chops, one truly needs the four to appreciate the full effect. It is written.

Dr. Stan and John devoured their respective Starters. Whilst the Mixed Kebab looked seductive, I wouldn’t swop this for Lamb Chops if presented side by side. Who needs the Pakora?

In the early days at Akbar’s, the Waiters gave updates on how long it would be between courses. This practice has gone, as have the rose petals which used to adorn the tables. Marg always remarks on their absence. I doubt if we, The Chaps, care about the latter.

The usual Chef brought the Mains, he is always happy to have his photo taken, so why disappoint? With the various karahi arranged on the table we had to use every bit of space to accommodate the – Bread.

The Bread

The Chapattis were in the traditional style as served since I first encountered them in the 1970s. Some venues serve the Thicker, Wholemeal variety, not here. These are Chapattis.

The Coriander and Chilli Nan was hung on the vertical stand. The Garlic which makes them dripping wet was thankfully absent. This was the Naan that has become my standard where possible.

The Texture was everything I seek, Thick extremities, reasonable girth in the centre, and rich in the – foliage. I would manage around half, Marg took a chunk, as did John who left about half of what I gave him. Even Chapatti John has a limit.

The Keema Nan was served flat and very importunity – whole. This too had a substantial girth, puffy even. The interior was not pink from what I could see, making it a perfect Keema Nan.

Despite the enthusiastic Bread Order, we did not leave too much, though John kept referring to a story involving loaves and fishes.

Roshan Lal

The Coriander topping was present along with the crucial wedge of Lemon, Squeezing the juice over the Masala adds such a lovely Citrus blast. The Masala was more abundant than one expects in a Bradford Curry and especially one at – Akbar’s served Asian Style, fortunately it was still far from – Soup. The Masala was – Thin. It should not have been served this way.

The first dip of Naan revealed – The Bradford Curry Taste. Sometimes in Bradford it can take a few mouthfuls for this to kick in. The disappointing appearance was set aside, just enjoy.

The Spice and Seasoning had to be spot on to create the authentic Bradford Flavours. Pieces of Tomatoes and Green Chillies were mixed through the Masala. Capsicum ruins this Curry, I know, it was served to me that way, once. The Meat was cut small, not quite as small as one get in the great Bradford Curry Cafes, perhaps that’s – ein Schnitt zu weit?

Across the table, Clive was coming to terms with his never ending Naan, and his first Bradford Curry – in Glasgow.

An ideal level of spiciness – observed Clive – didn’t set my mouth on fire. Lively, without being dangerous.

Hector still regards the Roshan Lal as Akbar’sSignature Dish. Maybe one day I’ll try it in Yorkshire?

Karahi Gosht

Well, it does look identical to the Roshan Lal, so it demands the same criticism this evening regarding the Thinness of the Masala. I cannot remember Marg ever finishing a Curry here, usually a Soupçon comes in my direction. If I was offered any, it was declined, too busy taking care of my my own. Tonight Marg cleared her karahi, which simply proves that if she doesn’t indulge in Lamb Chops she can manage an entire Akbar’s Curry!

I did point out her comments from last visit when she simply couldn’t finish it due to the Spice Level. Tonight was a markedly different experience:

Plenty meat, in very edible cubes. I loved the coriander kick, and coped with my mouth on fire. I would have it again.

No doubt she will.

Having survived Hector’s Cooking for some twenty years, I know that Marg may comment on what she sees as an an excessive Spice Level, but it is rare that she is defeated.

Marg was also finished long before the rest of us. Had she missed lunch? Marg took the opperchancity to order a Milky Coffee (£2.50) which came in good time.

Karahi Gosht & Spinach

With the same garnish as above, this was visibly the driest of the three. The Spinach had been mixed through the Masala, this was not the mass of thick green herbs with meat chucked on top which Hector avoids. On receiving his Curry, John summoned Naveed and asked for chopped Ginger. Trips to Manchester have introduced John to the help yourself – Coriander, Chillies and Ginger in the Curry Cafes, the – foliage.

Dr. Stan emitted his usual – Mmmm – as he ate. Finally he gave some words:

Good spice, good balance. Maybe a bit too runny.

Runny? I wonder if we had been given our Order – Asian Style?

John loves Akbar’s, soon I shall take him for a Curry or five in Bradford:

Beyond excellent. Outstanding balance of flavour and spice with a lovely consistency, washed down by four four Chapattis.

The Bill

£91.00 Subtracting the Wine, five dined with Starters, for a very decent price.

The Aftermath

The cash sorted, we made our way to the exit. Even the staff who hadn’t served us, acknowledged our departure. This was Visit #20.

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Glasgow – Halal Kebab House – If you don’t ask…

When Hector last visited Halal Kebab House (164 Albert Drive, Glasgow, G41 2N6) in November last year, the Curry was truly outstanding. This was down to the Chef who had learned the secrets of Yadgar then went on to present food of the same quality at Lasani Grill (now Basharat G’z). I was told that a new menu was due to be printed and the display boards revamped. I suggested I wait a few months to let them achieve this goal.  I considered ten months should be enough time.

Arriving today at 14.55, Sajid, Mein Host, was standing in the doorway. The only sit-in customer was finishing his meal. This is Hector’s preferred time of day to eat also. I asked for a Menu, there was none. I studied the prepared Dishes on display, there was – something in Lamb. I then looked at the display boards, no Curry, though a paper sign hanging below offered Paya (£5.50) with a – free Naan. I would rather eat – Chicken – than – Trotters, that should tell all.

Sajid asked what I would like:

Lamb Karahi with a Chilli and Coriander Naan.

Spicy – was also agreed.

A glass dish full of Curry was taken to the kitchen from the array on display. Was the Chef who has been called – Habib – in these pages (perhaps wrongly) present?

Sajid brought a sheet of paper to act as a tablecloth, no frills here. No drink was offered, none was asked for. A couple of Takeaway Customers bought Kebaps, one suspects this may well be what sells most here. Perhaps the clue is in the name of the business?

Twelve minutes after placing the Order, Chef brought the Karahi Gosht and Naan, it was nobody I knew. He spotted I had no cutlery, a plastic fork was provided.

The Naan was in the Rogni style, the perforations preventing the Bread rising. Rogni Naan has clearly arrived in Glasgow (from Manchester). The filling of Coriander Leaves and slices of large Green Chillies was abundant. I would eat all but the final scrap. A decent Naan, though I still prefer the traditional – Tandoori.

Lamb Karahi

The aroma was identical to that of the Balti Gosht I had at India Palace (Gent) a couple of weeks ago. In that Curry I questioned the apparent lack of ingredients, in a few moments I would discover the addition of something unnecessary and decidedly unwelcome.

The Topping of Coriander Leaves and Stems meant I would not go short of – foliage. The Masala was of a suitably – Thick – consistency. I then  spotted the Capsicum. Tiny pieces of Green Peppers were mixed through the Masala. I could never have spotted these in the dish on display. Already I knew the Overall Flavour of this Curry would be distorted, was this the source of the aroma which was quite a stand out?

The Meat was beautifully soft, and having sat in the dish with the Masala had taken in the Flavours. In double figures, there was plenty of it. The Spice Level was more than acceptable, the Chillies in the Naan were adding to this. The Seasoning was well below the Hector level of expectation.

I picked out the pieces of Capsicum as I encountered them, who knows how many bits were consumed? The finely chopped Onions mixed through the Masala also made the task difficult.

Appearance-wise, today’s Lamb Karahi was identical to the Lamb Bhuna served here last year. In terms of Flavour today’s well well short. The Lamb Bhuna had been prepared by the hands of a master, not today’s.

The Bill

£10.00      Did Sajid say – Free Naan?

The Aftermath

I had to find out if my favoured Chef was still part of Halal Kebab House and so showed Sajid the photo of them both taken last November. I was told why he was not here, but was assured that – Chef Shah still comes in occasionally.

I hope our paths will cross again, without his expertise, Halal Kebab House offers little for Hector. 

Sajid asked if I had enjoyed the Curry. I had to point to the pile of Capsicum.  Sajid told me they had not been part of the Curry on display, Chef had only just added them!  It was suggested that I ask for the Capsicum to be withheld next time.

There’s a thought.

For hours afterwards, the taste of Capsicum lingered on the palate, I hate this.

Hector’s Log – Supplemental

Last night I cooked the semi-Curry that is Curried Eggs with Pork Cutlets.

Wasn’t this the first thing you ever cooked for me? – asked Marg.

Indeed, Hector’s – Standard Fayre, and something very–  safe.

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Glasgow – Yadgar Kebab House – Anything Can Happen In The Next Half Hour

Hector was flying solo this Saturday afternoon in Glasgow. An impromptu visit to Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP) was decided upon. Normally the Order is placed in advance, however, there are times when curiosity wins, what were today’s – Specials?

Naveed as ever, was manning the counter. He talked me through the various Dishes as I defined my limits:

No Chicken.

Liver?

No Liver.

This left Aloo Gosht and a Vegetable Melange which Naveed was careful not to call – Vegetable Curry.

Potatoes, Carrots, Peas – he listed.

To be a classic Vegetable Curry, Green Beans would have to be present, and perhaps Cauliflower also. A Chapatti (£0.60) completed the Order.

I took my seat at the rear of the premises, six chaps at the window were just finishing. Naveed brought the customary Mango Rubicon and asked if I desired Starters. This time, not.

The wait for the reheat was not long. One observation, Chef Arshad was once again nowhere to be seen, a lengthy vacation?

Naveed brought the food, what a contrast in styles.

Aloo Gosht

Six pieces of Lamb on-the-bone sat in a Shorva with one large piece of Potato. This was a modest portion compared to the usual sharing of a kilo. Here lies the great Shorva dilemma, accept this for being – Soup – or order Rice and soak it up. Today, the spoon was put to good use.

The Spice Level was no more than moderate. The Sucky Bones were fun, as always. There was only a hint of the famous Yadgar Flavour which makes me return here so often. Had I desired the full on Yadgar Experience then I would have pre-ordered, but I was confident that today’s Vegetable offering would supply that.

Potatoes, Carrots, Peas

How different was this? This mix of Vegetables never ceases to astonish. Just how does Chef capture the Yadgar Flavours in this creation? I have always put it down to the Carrots which also add a slight Sweetness, but those who know deny that this is so. Here was a beautifully Dry and Thick – Curry. The Chapatti was put to good use here, scooping the mass of Vegetables in the Minimal Masala.

This was truly magnificent. Naveed came to ask if I required anything else. Here was my opperchancity to express my feelings:

I could come here and eat this, or your Aloo Gobi, everyday.

This was why Hector came to Yadgar today.

The Bill

£10.00 A nice round figure.

The Aftermath

On Pollokshaws Road, I spotted that Shahed’s has re-opened on schedule. The place was stowed, every seating space at the shelves along the windows occupied. The Afghan Masala (£9.00) looks like the Curry which will attract Hector. If only they opened before 16.00.

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