The number of Deutsche Curry Houses reviewed in Curry-Heute exceeds one hundred. With a handful of exceptions, Hector admits to wearing kid gloves, when reviewing Curry in Deutschland, such is the level of mediocrity of the Fayre typically served across this nation. Euro-Curry, what restaurateurs believe the people want, not what they themselves would eat at home. If they do, heaven forbid. Today, no – kid gloves – were required.
Researching venues in/near Düsseldorf, Rice & Spice – Taste of Pakistan (Badeniastraße 13, 41564 Kaarst, Deutschland) stood out from the Mainstream. There was enough online information to suggest proper – Desi Curry – could be on offer.
It was therefore with great anticipation when Marg and Hector headed west on S-Bahn 28 from Düsseldorf, via Neuss, to reach Kaarst, IKEA Karst, to be precise. A minibus did meet the train to wheech peeps off to the furniture store. The railway line clearly continued, what dragons beyond had the train terminate here, may be established in time.
We managed to dodge the imminent thunderstorm, payback for blue skies and 31ºC yesterday, as we completed the short walk through firstly retail, then a residential area. If Kaarst has an historic centre, this was not the day to go exploring. One piece of information which must be shared, Kaarst is the birthplace of Berti Vogts, World Cup winner and erstwhile manager of Scotland.
Arriving at Rice & Spice at 12.40, a young chap greeted in what we soon realised was quite an extensive venue. He led us towards the dining area in the garden at the rear.
Draußen? No thanks, not today. Subsequent diners were happy to sit outside.
You have Desi Curry? – I asked en route. There was acknowledgment, however, we soon established that the young chap could have been new to Rice & Spice. He was not totally au fait with the items on the menu. A lady came out to greet, we would establish later this was – Any – Chef, and wife of Mein Host, Ahmed. I explained that we had come far to sample their hopefully Punjabi Desi Fayre.
Drinks were sorted before we waded through the extensive menu. A bottle of Fanta (€3.00) and a 0.75l bottle of Sparkling Water (€6.00) were secured.
The extensive menu was recorded, having seen part of it online already, I knew that the Lamm Karahi is why I was here. The description of the ingredients: Ginger, Garlic, Tomato – is true to a Desi Masala. Not the Onion & Capsicum stir-fry abominations which the Mainstream restaurants across the land get away with. Fisch Karahi Masala (€26.99) may be one for the future. Fish Karahi, mmmm.
The banner on each page of the Mains assured us that our Dish would be accompanied by Salad, a Dessert and Chai. The choice of Tandoori Bread or Rice was a given. The universal price for all Lamb Curry ( €24.99) felt justified.
As the menu was sprinkled with Deutsch, some of the traditional Dishes were not recognised by Marg. She considered Lamm mit Paprika until I translated, no Capsicum! Aloo Gosht or Gobi Gosht? Marg chose the latter: Lamm mit Blumkohl.
Paye and Haleem were tucked away at the end. No price quoted, I wonder what the demand is for these Punjabi delicacies in Kaarst? Of greater attraction to Hector, Kofta (various), Shami and Seekk Kebab were also available, served with the same accompaniments as our choices. The good people of Kaarst may have won a watch.
An Interesting Salad was brought to the table. Beneath the dressing lay Grapes, Sweetcorn, Tomato, Apple, Kidney Beans, shredded Carrot & Cabbage, plus some green stuff. Rather than tear in, we both maintained the integrity of the Salad, what else might come?
It was during the efficacious thirty minute wait for the food to be prepared, that Mein Host arrived. Ahmed appreciated that we had not just happened to be in Kaarst. I decided not to reveal – Curry-Heute – at this time.
He told us that in Pakistan, Scottish music is oft a feature at weddings. My fellow countrymen going back to their roots, but taking the adopted culture with them?
Ahmed verified our Order. That we had asked for Bread and no Rice was confirmed, however, Ahmed insisted that we should try his Rice. He promised Chai afterwards which I immediately refused. The Hector was then assured that Tea without milk could be provided.
I went out ot the garden to get the photos. There I spotted the sign (below) promoting the Kebabs, the Streetfood.
Three sets of tea-lights were lit.
In time, Ahmed brought all the food to the table.
The Rice proved to be a portion of Pilau Matar. Hector having Rice with Karahi, the chaps back home would not serve me this. The Peas were of course, welcomed as another Interesting Vegetable. A tray of Dips was brought also, all home-made we were proudly told, the full array. Ahmed admitted that these were accompaniments for the Starters but was clearly keen to show them off. The menacing Green Chilli pulp sat in the centre: Achtung!
Two Roti, quartered, were presented. Wholemeal, not my preferred Flour, though this suited Marg. The Bread would turn crispy, I was now glad we had Rice. Between us, we would take care of six of the eight quarters.
Before I addressed the main event, I arranged Rice and Salad on the plate, no eating directly from the karahi today.
Lamm Karahi
The large Lamb Chop came as a surprise. On-the-bone, the Meat had not been discussed, this was a veritable bonus. Decanting the Boneless pieces to the plate confirmed there was plenty of eating here.
The Masala was classic Punjabi Karahi. Thick, Tomato-based, a Desi Masala. However, there were no Whole Spices, what was in here remained a secret.
The Spice hit the palate first, I had to wait a few moments for the Flavours to reveal themselves. There was nothing pronounced e.g. Clove, Cumin. This Masala was well balanced, truly enjoyable. One thing was immediately apparent, this was not Deutsche Curry.
Big Seasoning, Big Flavours, eating this creation was going to be a joyful experience.
The Meat was super-tender, especially the Lamb Chop. Umami, the meatiness was to the fore, but not necessarily more. The Lamb was not giving back the Spice. However, there was lots more to get to grips with.
Diversity, I was enjoying the Peas Pilau, the unusually Fruity Salad surprised me. Perhaps the South Africans know what they are doing having Fruit with Curry?
The final pieces of Meat were taken from the karahi and smothered with the retained Masala. My last mouthfuls were Curry & Rice, most unusual having ordered – Karahi. I just about managed to clear my plate.
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*
Lamm mit Blumenkohl
With the Masala at an absolute minimum, this Curry was far from anything served in the Mainstream Deutsche Curry Houses. This was a Desi Curry, surely Chefs across the land cannot be afraid of letting the public see this?
As Marg arranged her Curry on her plate, it became apparent that not only was there Lamb and Cauliflower present, Potato was in there too: Aloo Gobi Gosht!
Marg kept offering me a Soupçon. I declined these offers oft, concentrating on maintaining the Flavours on my own palate. In time I relented, a piece of Cauliflower crossed the table.
The moistness impressed, the texture was that of well cooked Cauliflower, this was not al dente. Not having had the Lamb here, I wonder if Chef had simply added Meat to the prepared Aloo Gobi?
Marg offered a few words:
A large portion of Salad arrived at the table and we wiated until the main course arrived before devouring it.
My main dish was full of cooked and spiced cauliflower and potato with small pieces of lamb. The flavour was refreshingly spicy and I used Bread to pick up the food. The taste made my lips tingle and I thoroughly enjoyed the overall flavours of the vegetables and the tender meat.
There were some strips of ginger to add to the taste. When I added Salad, the dish became even more enjoyable. What a treat. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience.
The young chap cleared the table then brought the promised – Beilagen. Two micro-Desserts. One was Sweet Rice with an Almond, the other Rice Noodles in what Marg interpreted as condensed milk. .
With one dry Dessert and one wet, we had half each, then switched. Both tasty, and Hector having Dessert, most unusual.
Ahmed brought two cups of Chai, I declined mine, milky. He remembered, and so brought an honourable, and much larger cup of proper Tea.
Whenever I eat Desi Karahi Gosht, it is generally in less salubrious surroundings. A meal for the eating, a quick in and out. Today was an event, we had – dined.
Marg – overall the meal was a great pleasure.
The Bill
€59.98 (£50.40) Ahmed informed me that here was a technical issue with their card reader. I was given IBAN details. With my card pre-loaded with Euros, I managed to make the payment without incurring charges.
The Aftermath
Time for Curry-Heute to be revealed. Time for the rest of the World to be made aware that a half hour west of Düsseldorf lies – Rice & Spice – a truly authentic Curry House, not just one that claims it is. There’s way too many of them. After Indian Mango, and its successor Dessi Tadka (München) plus Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin), Rice & Spice is only the third in all of Deutschland that the Hector feels is worthy of celebration.
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2025 Menu
It was bang on 15.00 when I arrived at 
After what felt like an appropriate wait, Rajiv brought out the food, the aroma already had me won. The presentation was commensurate with dining at any Curry Restaurant, that I was sitting in such a small area did not matter at all.
This accompaniment deserves its own banner, a first in 
Three Ginger Strips topped the Chettinad served in a handi. The seven pieces of Meat were arranged over the Rice, six of these would be halved, so absolutely no issue with the portion size. The viscous Masala was pleasingly not – Shorva – as is too often the case when ordering Chettinad. As ever, some Masala was kept back for the end game.
The aroma had already confirmed the efficacy of this South Indian Curry. The Coconut smokiness complemented the contrasting blend of Spices from the Rice. This was the perfect marriage of Curry and Rice. The Spice Level and Seasoning seemed incidental. With this intensity of Flavour on the palate, each mouthful was a joy.
Those of us who have enjoyed these magic moments when everything comes together, the synergy, should appreciate what is being described here: that which makes – Curry – a unique food. It’s way more than meat in a Spicy Sauce. 
Unlike 
Indieflavours (Odranska 18/19 50-113 Wroclaw, Polska) is found to the north-west of the Old Town, metres from an imposing university building which will have to be investigated at another date. 
A few steps down from street level, Indieflavours has a contemporary décor. The brick walls are a long way from the flock wallpaper we grew up with. Indieflavours seats around twenty.
The menu proved to be difficult to capture on camera, the varied results are as ever, posted at the foot of this post. With only three Lamb Dishes to choose from and one of them Korma (Zl47), Hector options were then two. Whilst Fish appears in the Starters section, there was no Fish Curry. 
To accompany, a Butter Naan (Zl11) for Hector, a Garlic & Coriander Naan (Zl13) for James. I was pleased to see a 0.75 bottle of Sparkling Water (Zl15) on offer, rehydration is always a feature of these trips. James ordered a Lemonade (Zl9). 
James’ Starter duly arrived.
Given the price, I had warned James that this could be close to the volume of a main course. There was no surprise when a dozen-plus pieces of Chicken were presented incorporating the Big Onion Blobs and 
I was invited to sample a piece of Chicken, it was as expected. Shrouded in the universally available red Chilli Sauce, the Flavour outcome belonged to that populous land to the east of the Indian Subcontinent. Maybe out of place in a venue which calls itself Indieflavours? 
After the Breads and Mains were brought, so two bowls of Basmati appeared. I had previously studied the menu for any refreeze of inclusive Rice, the European way. If it was there, it was lost in non-translation. My Rice bowl remained untouched. James managed both Rice and Bread. Oh to be thirty again. Question: if I eat half as much, why am I twice as large? 
Behold an orange, Soupy Masala featuring a swirl of Cream, then topped with flaked Almonds. With Cashews mentioned in the description, not a Curry for anyone with a Nut allergy. The given description also mentioned – Fenugreek. 
James, who one day might graduate towards a more demanding Curry, ate the lot then offered these words:
Having seen photos online of the Lamb Shank encrusted with Spice, I had high hopes. My photo shows but a Lamb Shank smothered in the accompanying Masala. This was what it was, Nihari it wasn’t. 
The Masala was the standard Euro Masala encountered throughout the Continent. Creamy, viscous, a step up from the above Dish perhaps. 
The Bill
As before, the menu was an A3 laminated sheet. 
We left. 
T
Arriving at 15.30, Aniq, as ever, was manning the counter. Curry was on display, I still wonder how they transform this into what is served. It was only on the last 
I took a table at the rear of the premises. A sewing lady was beavering away at the window. 
The heart sank. What was this? The karahi was full of Shorva, where was the Meat? Three pieces of Meat? OK, they were large and each piece was subsequently cut into three, but in terms of presentation, this bore no resemblance to the wonderful Curry that has made me make a beeline to Osloer Strasse every time I come to 
I sampled the Shorva, a decent Spice Level, and the Seasoning was fine. The expected blast of Citrus was not happening. I ate on. Tender Lamb, but not giving anything back other than its own Meatiness. This Curry was a pale imitation of what has come before.
The Bill
… 
It was Chef Suriya who served me. I was directed to the – Sit In – menu housed in a dookit on the wall at the entrance. The Lunch Deal (£10.95) did not entice, no Lamb Curry. I studied the Takeaway/Delivery menu, more options. Suriya brought his copy from the counter, mine only had print on one side. Also! 
Lamb Curry With Ginger, first on the list, and two prices quoted: £9.50 to sit in, £12.95 to Takeaway. Unusual, however, the sitting in portion is presumably smaller. I watched £9.50 being noted. The Takeaway menu had Mushroom Rice (£3.95), way more interesting than the straightforward Pilau Rice (£3.40 / £3.70). 
Curry Cafe? – no, there is no ready-cooked Curry on display as per the oft visited venues on the Southside. As with 
This handi felt slightly smaller than the Rice. This made the Toppings of Ginger Strips and Coriander stand out. I counted six pieces of Meat as I arranged the Curry over the Rice. Two were decidedly larger, so the – minimum eight – was attained. A viscous, blended Masala, appearance-wise, this is what I had I mind for today. After Wednesday’s share of a kilo of 
A good Spice Level, far from being challenging, well Seasoned, the Hector was onside. Anticipating a blast of Ginger, I was surprised when this Curry took me towards the south of 
Clearing the plate, a sign that the quantities served were well judged. I didn’t need more, but was already planing a return visit. Saag, Bhoona, Chettinad, and even Karahi – 
It was Rajiv, front of house and taking phone Orders, who took payment. I showed him 
Mera Lahore (26/27 Haddington Place, Edinburgh EH7 4AF), one of the ribbon of Curry Houses on the stretch down towards Leith, has been on Hector’s radar for some time. A Punjabi restaurant in Edinburgh, and one of only four known in this city which serves Karahi Gosht by the kilo, i.e. in the authentic manner. 
We arrived at Mera Lahore at 19.40. Two tables were occupied in a venue which I shall describe as a – Pukkah Cafe. Two chaps, then a mother with two weans, were in situ. The toddler felt it necessary to climb all over the furniture, the baby was a screamer. The screaming was relentless, the worst ever experienced, and the Hector has made many a comment on this subject. What are parents thinking when they take these entities out to dine in public? A simple – there-there – or however this translates into Urdu, clearly does not work. Get the wean out, deal with it.
We couldn’t hear ourselves speak – the chaps at the adjacent table were keen to tell me when I went to take my photos of the surroundings. 
Having – persuaded – Dr. John in advance that we should share the kilo of Lahori Butt Lamb Karahi (£34.95), and that a Starter would be out of the question, he searched for this on the menu, whilst I photographed all. Aqib showed us the page. 
£4.00 more for – Boneless, interesting. Having prepared the appetite for late eating, I knew we should manage the kilo, Boneless, no, but then that’s not the true authentic Dish. 
Supposedly double-fried, the Pakora was well done. A decent portion. Dr. Henry:
another would be required.
The Meat covered the full extent of the flat karahi, no doubting the portion size. An array of Bones were visible, different cuts of Lamb, I could see thick Chops and a Sucky Bone!
I let my fellow diner did in, he took but a few morsels initially and purloined some of his Henry’s Rice. There must have been enough. 
The Masala lacks Seasoning – was my first note. That would turn out to be my only negative. 
This is what Dr. Henry orders, this is what he likes. If the Pakora was found to be – a little Spicy – then the base level has been established. This Chicken Korma was as Henry, and many other diners, are accustomed to. Dr. Henry:
I enjoyed my curry this evening. My Chicken Korma was sweet and tasty and the boiled rice a tiny bit on the dry side. Overall a satisfying meal.
My issue here is: apart from the Chicken, just what was in the karahi? Presumably no more than spoonful of Sauce from The Big Pot, a mass of Cream and a dose of Coconut. Chef could take the day off. Just what is one paying for here? Especially with the uniform pricing. 
The Aftermath
On leaving home this afternoon, Hector’s mind had traditional Curry & Rice foremost in mind, nothing exotic, something simple. En route to Partick it was realised that being a Monday, the intended venue opened later, i.e. too late. 
Arriving at Banta Wala at 13.45 the dining area was empty other than the waiter and waitress. 
The menu was an A3 paper sheet set as a table mat, but removed after ordering. The waitress took the Order for a 330ml bottle of Sparkling Water (£2.60) as I perused the menu. Lamb Rogan Josh (£14.95) was in keeping with the original plan for today, however, a memory of outstanding Paratha led me towards a Curry which should command Bread. It was in 
The food was brought by the waiter at 13.59.
The Paratha, served whole, was clearly overdone. Had this been a Naan I would no doubt have been celebrating the burnt extremities. 
Served on a plate, not a handi, there was no sign of the – earthenware – in which this creation had been reportedly cooked. Topped with Ginger Strips, the Dark, Thick, Herb-strewn Masala impressed. This is how the Hector likes his – Curry. 
As I was not decanting, it took a while to confirm that the Meat count was into double figures. Later, Steve would tell me that the last time he was here, he sent back his plate featuring a mere three pieces of Meat. Today, there was certainly no issue with quantity.
As outlined back in January when Marg cooked 
The point of this day is for me to sit down and eat, no planning, no involvement, as Marg does otherwise, seven days a week. Marg even had to go shopping to find the key ingredients. The full recipe remains unknown, some ingredients were not Hector’s – go-to. I have never cooked Caramelised Red Onions, I could do without them, same for Chickpeas and Mint. With Peas, these formed the Interesting Vegetables in what would become the Spicy Rice. 
With the Fish baked in the oven and the pre-cooked Rice added to the Vegetables on the gas hob, simples. 
Marg announced that the Raita was meant to be poured over the Fish. Other than squeezing the Lemon, no way was I adding something cold to hot Fish. I used the tasty Raita as a complement as and when. 
15.15, a Thursday afternoon, and Hector finds himself in the Southside. With time to snack, where’s better then 
Aloo Gobi (Potato and Cauliflower), Aloo Gajar Matar (Potatoes, Carrots, Peas) were on display along with other delights. What might have been Aloo Gosht disappeared. Two more trays were due out shortly: Beef Biryani and Chicken Jalfrezi. The latter was definitely not for Hector. I took the opperchancity to tell Shkoor, a boy in the 1970s, that my first encounters of Biryani back in the day, always included a side of Masala. 
I took my seat mid room. All tables towards the window wee occupied. Mid afternoon dining, excellent. The remainder of the room was empty, however, spot the Melon. Melon Curry? 
This was where the Salad was sneaked in, sliced pickled Green Chillies in there too, what a plateful! The Fish count reached double figures, and these were not tiddlers. This was a meal in itself. 
Two large, in effect, Chicken Burgers, but nothing like any so-called Chicken Burgers served in the Burger joints. Chicken, Onion, Chilli, Spices, all ground and formed into the patty. 
A snack, had there been Bread or Rice, no way would I have managed all that had been set before me. I left a bit of greenery, because that’s what you do.