Manchester – Dera – One Night in the City

Hector and Marg are in Manchester for one night en route to, well wait and see. Plusbus – tickets were arranged at the time of purchasing our rail tickets to facilitate the journey up Cheetham Hill Road to Dera (433 Cheetham Hill Rd, Manchester, M8 OPF). Dera has consistently proved to be the source of the most outstanding Curry in Manchester. Dera are in a league of their own, well above the Fast-food Curry Cafes of the Northern Quarter, and the Mainstream Curry Houses which prevail across the city, including the so called – Curry Mile – in Rusholme.

There’s no need to take Hector’s word for it, Rizwan, Mein Host at Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1LQ England) confirmed that statement this very evening. After a late afternoon coffee, Marg and Hector were able to drop by Kabana at 17.30, just as Rizwan was closing up. This was the first time he appreciated who Marg is, as her visits are fewer, and she tends to only have Samosas at lunchtime when Hector is indulging himself. Rizwan confirmed that Dera serves something special in comparison to his own fayre. However I reminded him that the quality of Curry served at Kabana has been getting better and better on every visit in the last two years. Rizwan puts this down to sourcing- Lamb Shoulder. Rizwan took the opperchancity to tell Marg what he has been telling me in our post meal chats – that customers are flocking to Kabana having read the reviews on Curry-Heute. Rizwan would also like to do a tour of the Curry Houses around the country (and beyond?) which Hector recommends. Respect.

We discussed what appears to be a new – Curry Mile – developing in the north of Manchester stretching from Ancoats up Cheetham Hill Road. Rizwan agreed that the original – Curry Mile – has so few Curry Houses compared to years gone by. An imbalance in favour of – Grill Houses – serving Kebap and not Curry has evolved in Rusholme. In the new axis, there is a cluster of Curry Cafes, including a second Kabana on Cheetham Hill Rd beside the well established Bukhara. Adjacent to Kabana #2 is a Persian Restaurant – Darbar – which also has yet to be visited, plus the three more venues across the road which have been reviewed on Curry-Heute.

Arriving at Dera @19.30, it was Marg’s turn to ride the tractor. One isn’t meant to, but why else is it there? How was your journey, my friend? – was the greeting by the Manager at Dera. Visits here may only average a couple of times a year, but unless it is a young waiter who serves, Hector is always recognised.

It has been some time since we sat in the main dining room, recent visits have meant sitting in the small room to the left on entry. Only three other tables were occupied on this quiet Monday evening.

What sort of menu is this? – remarked Marg on seeing the layout with numbers following the name of each Dish.

The Menu had not fundamentally changed since my last visit, the half kilo portions of Karahi were still available at acceptable prices. Eventually I realised that the added numbers referred to – food allergies – as outlined in the key. Tonight Hector would have Zaitoon Lamb Karahi (£13.95), Olive Oil would be used in its preparation.

The – 6 – referred to – Dairy. This acknowledges the dessert spoon of Yoghurt which gets added just before serving. Having spotted Garlic Naan (£1.95) as the only alternative to Plain, I asked for – no Garlic, but Chilli and Coriander instead. This was acceptable though Mein Host did insist that Marg have some of this.

Having missed out on Lamb Chops in our recent outings, Marg opted for these. Grilled Chops (£6.95) would come as a portion of four. On the front of the new Menu under – While you wait – is – Poppadom (2pcs) with chutney tray – (£1.95). Marg ordered these also and asked that her Grilled Chops be served at the same time as my Karahi.

Mein Host brought a Salad and two Dips – Tamarind and Raita. Mein Host explained that Tamarind is a worthy accompaniment with Fish. I declared that I wished I could be here for two days and enjoy the Masala Fish Boneless (£8.95). Perhaps on my planned return in January I may remember to try this.

Four Poppadoms arrived, Marg sent two back knowing that I would not necessarily be interested. These were accompanied by Spiced Onions and Mango Chutney. I did sample the Spiced Onions with a piece of Poppadom. The Onions were very Fresh and indeed Spicy, the Poppadoms were Limp, Stale almost. The Bottle of Tap Water which had been brought was also tepid, dubious, I should have bought Sparkling Water.

Mein Host announced that the Grilled Chops would arrive before the Lamb Karahi. He may have given a reason, this was not understood. When eight Lamb Chops were presented I got the drift. Given the saga of Lamb Chops in our recent visits to Akbar’s (Glasgow), it was quite ironic that Hector would have no choice but to help Marg out. I would limit myself to two, Marg would have six Lamb Chops!

Grilled Chops

The long bones made the Meat element of the Lamb Chops appear to be – small. In fact these Lamb Chops were smaller and thinner than the standard. They were excellent, the Spice and Seasoning were all one could hope for. The Charcoal was full on, I ate one as served, then another with Raita as Marg was enthusing about this combination:

Well it’s lovely, and the mint sauce goes perfectly with a bit of mango.

Marg ate six Lamb Chops, what had Hector done? This was her main course, Marg presently accepts it’s either Chops or Curry.

Chilli and Coriander Naan

The – foliage – had been cooked in. Some perforations were visible, enough to stop the Bread rising, a step towards – Rogni Naan. It’s a Manchester thing. The Naan had been halved which is always a source of frustration, why cut up Bread? The overall size was sensible, one could eat just about all of this Naan, so very little wastage.

Zaitoon Lamb Karahi

Topped with Chilli and Coriander, I counted fifteen pieces of Meat and could see three big bones. The Masala looked so inviting, no surface Oil was visible. This truly was a Lamb Karahi – a cut above the rest.

Hector knew why he was here. The most Tender of Lamb complemented the most Flavoursome Masala, every mouthful would be a joy. I had wondered if Olives would be visible, but then concluded the – Zaitoon – element was simply the Oil, which still was not gathering. Marg had to assist:

There’s a tanginess to it.

That had not registered on my palate, we all react differently.

The Masala was delightfully – Thick – the Spice Level never became silly, even when the Chillies from both Curry and Naan kicked in. The Coriander did its job, every mouthful of this Lamb Karahi was a joy. The Lamb was Tender, but still required some chewing. As I studied the Masala so I could see the Tomato Seeds in the base and sensed the presence of Meat Pulp. This had everything. The three big bones were finally tackled. The taste of Lamb from each of these was outstanding. At the end I had to photograph the remnants, justice had been done to this meal.

The Bill

£30.75 The Naan had been billed as Rogni, and we were charged for both portions of Grilled Chops having only asked for one.

The Aftermath

Another family were at the counter as we departed, so farewells were brief. If one is in Manchester, one simply has to try – Dera.

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Glasgow – Kebabish Grill – Probably worth the price

I know that many people in Glasgow’s Asian community hold Kebabish Grill (323–325 Victoria Road, Glasgow, G42 7SA) in the highest regard. Whilst having enjoyed my previous visits, I felt their Curry lacked the – Wow! – factor to have me visit regularly. I was invited, twice, to their re-opening night earlier this year after the fire of 2017 closed the premises for over a year. I was abroad for the first scheduled evening which was postponed. The invitation for the second date was not found until too late, so it goes.

It was Dr. Stan who instigated today’s Curry to appease The Man from Bradford who is his house guest. In the end The Rickmeister didn’t show. The arranged time was 15.30, I arrived a few minutes before and had time to study the Menu in detail. The prices were the first thing I noted, ambitious, but Kebabish Grill is a restaurant unlike the Curry Cafes off Victoria Rd. I had glanced at the Takeaway Menu as I entered, the Takeaway prices were £2.00 less for main courses. In the Main Menu, prices have gone up by typically £3.00 for a main course since I was last here in 2016.

Previously I have described how customers at Kebabish Grill were sat in a cluster, today the pattern was linear. We were all sat along the edge of the raised seating area, though one window table was allocated not long before our departure. In terms of décor, the premises have been restored, I could see little difference from what was before other than booth seating along the window.

The Menu features – Old School / Traditional Dishes. Hector was more interested in the Chef’s Specials. Here were many favourites including Desi Karahi Gosht (on the bone) at a whopping £12.95. Above this was Namkeen Gosht (£12.95), I wondered if this had to be ordered in advance as is the case in the handful of Glasgow venues which offer this Afghani Curry. As soon as Dr. Stan picked up the Menu, his first utterance captured the moment:

Quite expensive.

Dr. Stan’s selection today was Methi Gosht (£11.95) accompanied by a Garlic Roti (£2.25). Had Ricky turned up, he would have had a lot to say about the price of Bread. For Hector, a Chilli Nan (£3.50), I was not going to risk being charged more for having Coriander added. The Waiter confirmed that the Namkeen Karahi was readily available, this is a first in Glasgow. Had it not been, Indian Mixed Vegetables (£8.95) may well have been my choice today. I was impressed at seeing Methi and Karela featuring prominently in certain Dishes.

Tap water was asked for, this was presented in a flashy bottle. We would drink from crystal glasses, very pukka. The Waiter brought an elaborate Salad and two Dips. He then asked if we wished Spiced Onions and Poppadoms. These were declined. At these prices they should surely have been provided. If they were complimentary, then he should have said so. Stan tackled the Salad, Hector is off Salad this week.

During our wait, I saw two Naans covered with a mass of I don’t know what, being taken back to the kitchen. The Hector wished that one could go and investigate what the problem was.

The Bread

The Garlic Roti was unlike anything I have encountered. Large, Wet and Puffy, one would most certainly be enough. This Roti would surely not turn to – crisp. The Chilli Nan was certainly more than I could ever eat. It too was puffy/fluffy. The interior was a mass of evenly spread Green Chillies. Red Chilli flakes had been sprinkled on top. I wasn’t going to miss my blast of Coriander, this was an excellent Naan.

Methi Gosht

The Waiter placed this in front of me, I had time to observe the Dark, Thick and very Rich looking Masala before sliding it across the table to Dr. Stan.

Quite a lot of meat – confirmed Dr. Stan. The price was starting to look justified.

I enjoyed it, good solid spiciness, plenty of Methi, tender meat, probably worth the price – were Dr. Stan’s eloquent words for today. I like when he humours me.

Namkeen Gosht

Coriander Leaves topped the palest of Curry. Namkeen is unlike any other Curry, nothing – Red – goes in, typically just Salt, Pepper and Chillies. Shorva-esque – was my first observation, the Masala did look to be quite – Thin – at the start, this I had to revise as I got into the Curry. The abundant Meat was served in large Chunks and was on-the-bone. This had the makings of – quite a Curry.

One has to adjust the palate when having Namkeen, it is Curry, but nothing like the traditional fayre of the Indian subcontinent. The Lamb had been slow cooked to perfection. This was beyond tender but far from pulp. Dipping the Naan into the Masala presented a series of joyful moments, the Chillies added more Spice to that which was already in the Curry. The Flavours were spot on, this was as good a Namkeen Karahi as I have experienced.

The pieces of Meat were too large to pick up, I had to break the flesh off with the spoon. There was a lot of it, this portion certainly justified the price. The bones and cartilage were set aside. As I got deeper into the Dish so the Masala became visibly Thicker, more Peppery even, with Tomato Seeds to the fore. Whole cloves of Garlic and Large Green Chillies were buried in there. I kept the – sucky bone – to the end. When I got up this morning I had no idea that I would be eating Namkeen, this was a very pleasant surprise. Chef should be proud of this creation.

The Bill

£30.65 Not too silly, but around the corner at Yadgar we could have had this and Starters for the same price, but no crystal glasses.

The Aftermath

This was only my third visit to Kebabish Grill in the time of Curry-Heute. I introduced myself to Mein Host, praised the food, then set about taking photos of the restaurant. As we were preparing to leave I became aware that the chap sitting at the window needed a napkin, Hector-the-provider was on the case. This gave the opperchancity to study his Peshwari Naan (£3.50) which was covered in a mass of Nuts. Marg would love this. She certainly appreciated the ambience when she was here three years ago. I think I have been sold on Kebabish Grill. When – The Carnoustie Two – next visit, this will have to be the venue. 

Menu extracts

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Glasgow – Basharat G’z – One Month Later

I promised not to return to Basharat G’z (223-225 Allison Street, Glasgow, G42 8RU) for at least two weeks having visited three times in the eight days after the launch of this new Southside Curry Cafe. At least Basharat G’z has survived the month since my last visit, which is more than the previous incarnation of Curry House managed in these premises.

Ricky, The Man from Bradford, is in Glasgow for a few days, there shall be at least one Curry. The first choice of venue had to be Basharat G’z. Ricky is as keen as Hector to try new places in the hope of finding that – something special. Having been thoroughly impressed by the half kilo of Lamb Karahi (£12.00) and previously taken four other friends to share the experience, Hector was confident that this would impress The Rickmeister.

We arrived just after 15.00, a young chap I didn’t recognise was behind the counter. When Abbas saw us in the dining area, the warmth of greeting was such that one felt like a regular. This was only Visit #4. Basharat, Mein Host and Chef, was summoned to prepare the Order. Introductions were made. Basharat appeared not to know that Bradford is still – The Curry Capital of the UK, he does now.

You’re under no pressure – I put to him.

It is about time Glasgow regained the title, we have a much greater diversity of Flavours. However, the Curry Houses chosen to represent us are not the ones Hector would select. Surely someone who has eaten in every Curry House in Glasgow, bar about five presently, should be consulted?

Ricky insisted on having his Karahi Gosht without bones, Hector would optimise the event by having the more authentic – on-the-bone. Abbas predicted – Chilli-Coriander Naan (£3.00) – for Hector knowing that this was perfected on my last visit. After Ricky figuratively picked himself off the floor at the prospect of actually having to pay for Bread, he ordered a Garlic Naan (£2.80). As shall be further exemplified at the end of this month, many Bradford Curry Houses regard Rice/Chapattis/Naan as a necessary, and therefore free, inclusion.

Those who were present on our arrival soon departed, what had they been up to? They were quickly replaced by a family with young children, one of whom decided that constantly kicking the bench seat was mandatory. Every kick reverberated into my back. No enforcement of discipline here, and much discomfort for Hector.

Abbas brought the food, he was already apologising for the size of the Naans, they should have been larger. What we saw, suited us both. Small Naan (£1.00) – says the Menu.

The Breads

The Chilli and Coriander Naan was halfway to becoming the Rogni style having perforations across the centre, and being – puffy – only around the periphery. There was ample filling, a delightful Naan. A scrap would be left over.

The Garlic Naan had suitably risen and was puffy throughout. For those who enjoy a Garlic overdose, this looked just the job.

A Salad was provided, this remained untouched. Had it been brought earlier, we would have nibbled.

Lamb Karahi

An excess of Oil was a feature of my first visits here, this has been taken on board. The amount of Oil in the Karahi was well judged, some is necessary else the full Flavours of the Curry are not going to be revealed. We therefore both had ideal Lamb Karahi, abundant Meat, Minimal and Thick Masala. It’s all therefore about what happens next.

Ricky was positive from the start. The first mouthful should be that special moment.

You’re back on form – was Ricky’s complimentary comment aimed in my direction. This Lamb Karahi was streets ahead of the last two new venues I had taken him to namely the commendable Namak Mandi, and the somewhat quirky Shinwari Restaurant nearby.

Excellent Curry – continued Ricky.

Basharat was out from the kitchen to check that all was well. Well of course it was, he understands what a Karahi Gosht is. The Spice and Seasoning were well pitched, therefore the distinctive Flavours were to the fore. One could identify this from a line of Karahi Gosht if such a contest was ever set up.

Every member of staff came to check on our progress and ask if there was anything else we required. Given that Basharat G’z is primarily a Takeaway, this was service.

Comparing today’s meal with the Takeaway that Ricky bought in Partick last night:

Halfway, I’ve now got twice as much meat left as I had (in total) yesterday.

Ah, the joy of the half kilo. Hector’s pile of bones grew. A Lamb Chop was encountered. On-the-bone is always more Flavoursome than Boneless, yet Ricky wanted to maximise the amount of Meat on his plate. I knew I could manage what lay before me, in the end, Ricky had to abandon three pieces of Lamb.

*

The Bill

£29.80 We were charged the full price for our – Small Naans.

The Aftermath

As I bade farewell, I took photos of the ready dishes. Chicken aside, enough here to tempt one to just drop in and take what is on offer.

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Glasgow – Mother India’s Cafe – Open as advertised, unlike…

Once again Hector finds himself at Mother India’s Cafe (1355 Argyle St, Glasgow, G3 8AD because Banana Leaf (76B, Old Dumbarton Rd, Glasgow, G3 8RE) around the corner failed to open at the time previously told verbally to Hector, and as advertised on Google Maps. We arrived at 13.30, one hour after the best known opening time.

Tardiness has been experienced with increasing frequency, and not just in Glasgow, such that – Opening Times – has been added to – The Curry-Heute Campaign. People plan their day around the published business hours, then  travel to find the premises closed. Does one then hang about in the faint hope that someone might open up soon? Lord Clive of Crawley was looking forward to some South Indian Cuisine once again in Glasgow, alas not to be.

It is over five years since Hector and Clive dined together at Mother India’s Cafe. Having reminded him that this is a Tapas Restaurant, we set about making our choices. For Hector, there always has to be Machi Masala (£5.80), Clive was happy to have this also. Having dismissed – Today’s Specials – the – Lamb Saag (£6.20) would be my partner Curry. It was only at the time of writing I realised that Clive chose the same accompaniment as five years agoMethi Keema Mutter (£5.95).

No, Clive, there’s no Keema Naan or Keema Paratha.

Clive settled for a Garlic Nan (£2.25). Being in a somewhat belligerent mood, The Paratha Police were called into play (£2.15). A large bottle of Sparkling Water (£4.15) completed the Order.

On serving the water, Kathryn, our delightful waitress, found a coffee bean in Clive’s glass. The glass was whisked away, a replacement provided along with a small bottle of Sparkling Water. The brands differed, Kathryn wondered for a moment if that could make a difference. It was all Scottish water, no problem.

The main dining room was nearly full, it was good to see so many people out having early afternoon Curry, as it Hector’s wont. Perhaps some may read this Blog and be tempted to cross the River Clyde where Curry Disneyland is to be found?

Warm plates were brought to the table. We waited. The manager noticed that we had been waiting for quite a few minutes more. The now cold plates were replaced with even hotter plates just before the serving of the food. I’ll admit, one does not usually get service like this in my preferred Southside Curry Cafes.

The Breads

Both Breads were served whole, this adds greatly to the pleasure thus permitting one to – break bread. This is more than a hangover from Chapatti John’s mentioning of – loaves and fishes – last evening at Akbar’s. Bread should be served hot and whole, we were both impressed so far.

The Paratha was layered and flaky and showed signs of the central – swirl. This was the – Perfect Paratha, however, Hector had planned an even better one today at Banana Leaf where, depending on the Chef, they are made with White Chapatti Flour, not Wholemeal as at Mother India’s Cafe. The Paratha Police made no arrests today.

Machi Masala

Today’s looked to be a bit more – orange – than that which has been my staple diet here since they opened. On looking back at the photos over the nearly ten years of Curry-Heute, this is borne out. The – Battered Fish – is thankfully a thing of the past.

Four decent sized pieces of Fish were coated in the Masala. Beyond that, the Masala was far from excessive. The Spice Level was fine, however, the Seasoning was below the expected level, a feature of Fish Curry that baffles when found to be so. There was a blast of Clove which took me by surprise.

Lost its potency – was noted. What I have frequently described as the – Best Fish Curry I have found in Glasgow – lacked the bite, the Citrus was missing. Where was the wedge of Lemon? Still, Mother India’s Cafe may well retain its accolade. It is difficult to find outstanding Fish Curry in Glasgow. If only Banana Leaf did a – Fish Chettinad.

Lamb Saag

Six pieces of Tender Meat sat in the Dark, Thick Masala. Three of the pieces were substantially larger than the norm. For Tapas, this matched many a Southside Curry Cafe portion. Strands of Spinach had been stirred through the Masala, no doubt some Saag/Palak had been cooked in also.

The Earthy Flavour was very pleasant but as Hector can somehow remember the tastes of yesteryear, this was not matching the memory of what was once served here. Still, I would certainly have this again.

Methi Keema MutterThe very definition of Dry Curry – is what I noted. Clive chose to decant both Dishes to his plate and so alternated between the Fish and the Mince, very strange. He ate every piece of the impressive Naan, that is if one likes Naan dripping with Garlic.

That was really good, both of them – was Clive’s concluding statement.

The Bill

£32.20       On the Southside, one can usually get much more Curry for one’s Buck.

The Aftermath

There was a delay of a few minutes after settling – The Bill. There was still a lot of Sparkling Water to consume.

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Glasgow – Akbar’s – Five go Dining

A second visit to Akbar’s (573-581 Sauchiehall Street G3 7PQ) in four weeks? Hector and Marg are becoming regulars. Lord Clive of Crawley is in Scotland. This is Clive’s third evening but only his first Curry, Hector Curry-Heute may be losing his touch.

Uber John ferried Clive and Hector to Akbar’s from the nearby Grunting Growler, meanwhile Dr. Stan walked. Marg was late for the 18.00 rendezvous. Imran, Mein Host, was at the door to greet. Naveed was once again allocated as our – Waiter for the evening. We were shown to a table in the middle of the main dining area. The policy appears to be: fill this up, then open the raised seating area.

This isn’t like the places you usually take me to – remarked Clive who realised that this venue was a cut above the Curry Cafes which Hector mostly supports.

Naveed was keen to take a Drinks order, Hector was keen to stall until Marg arrived. Clive would follow Hector’s lead, this being his first visit to the Bradford Curry Franchise in Glasgow. There would have to be Lamb Chops (£4.45) which may be the best value presently available, anywhere. I envisaged ordering three portions given Marg’s propensity to purloin one of mine. Marg arrived just in time to veto this. She would have a Poppadom (£0.75) with the accompanying Pickle Tray (£1.50) though Mango Chutney was all she required. Clive and John decided a Poppadom was also necessary. Hector bit his tongue, paying for Poppadoms and Dips, aaargh.

Dr. Stan chose his customary Seekh Kebab to start, John could not resist the Mixed Kebab (£5.25) to which he would add the first of his two glasses of Red Wine (£4.25).  If what was served was a – large glass – I’d hate to see a small one.

It has been a while since I had the Roshan Lal (£10.45), Clive would have the same. John and Dr. Stan opted for safe ground – Karahi Gosht and Spinach, they too have had this before. At £8.95 one has to wonder why this is appreciably less than the Roshan Lal. Marg, who was still playing catchup, repeated her choice from a few weeks agoKarahi Gosht (£8.45). Again, check the price, the Mains are excellent value.

Naveed remembered the – no Capsicum – instruction. Asian Style – was requested by all, even Marg who found her Karahi Gosht to be – too Spicy – last time. John would limit himself to four Chapattis (£0.75), Dr. Stan and Marg would have one each. Extra Bread was guaranteed as Hector once again went for the Coriander and Chilli Nan (£2.85). Clive went overboard by ordering his favourite – Keema Nan (£3.50). This would be a first appearance of Keema Nan on Curry-Heute.

John had his Wine, the rest of us settled for Tap Water, one way to keep – The Bill – rock bottom.

The Poppadoms and Dips arrived, everyone except Hector took part in the frenzy. I’m not playing this game. Anyway, Hector was keeping the palate clear for the Lamb Chops, four, and the Hector was having four. Marg had made her choice.

Lamb Chops

Hot & Sizzling, I followed the stereophonic effect as they were brought from my right to the left of the table. I’ll try not to dwell on the fact that the garnish always has Capsicum despite my clarity re the Mains. Four well fired Lamb Chops, last time they disappointed, not tonight. These were back on form, as Succulent as required. The tongue tingled, the Spice was right there, even the Seasoning was noted.

I watched Clive take care of his portion, I knew what would be said at the end:

Not quite The Downsman (Crawley).

But half the price – I retorted.

These were excellent Lamb Chops, one truly needs the four to appreciate the full effect. It is written.

Dr. Stan and John devoured their respective Starters. Whilst the Mixed Kebab looked seductive, I wouldn’t swop this for Lamb Chops if presented side by side. Who needs the Pakora?

In the early days at Akbar’s, the Waiters gave updates on how long it would be between courses. This practice has gone, as have the rose petals which used to adorn the tables. Marg always remarks on their absence. I doubt if we, The Chaps, care about the latter.

The usual Chef brought the Mains, he is always happy to have his photo taken, so why disappoint? With the various karahi arranged on the table we had to use every bit of space to accommodate the – Bread.

The Bread

The Chapattis were in the traditional style as served since I first encountered them in the 1970s. Some venues serve the Thicker, Wholemeal variety, not here. These are Chapattis.

The Coriander and Chilli Nan was hung on the vertical stand. The Garlic which makes them dripping wet was thankfully absent. This was the Naan that has become my standard where possible.

The Texture was everything I seek, Thick extremities, reasonable girth in the centre, and rich in the – foliage. I would manage around half, Marg took a chunk, as did John who left about half of what I gave him. Even Chapatti John has a limit.

The Keema Nan was served flat and very importunity – whole. This too had a substantial girth, puffy even. The interior was not pink from what I could see, making it a perfect Keema Nan.

Despite the enthusiastic Bread Order, we did not leave too much, though John kept referring to a story involving loaves and fishes.

Roshan Lal

The Coriander topping was present along with the crucial wedge of Lemon, Squeezing the juice over the Masala adds such a lovely Citrus blast. The Masala was more abundant than one expects in a Bradford Curry and especially one at – Akbar’s served Asian Style, fortunately it was still far from – Soup. The Masala was – Thin. It should not have been served this way.

The first dip of Naan revealed – The Bradford Curry Taste. Sometimes in Bradford it can take a few mouthfuls for this to kick in. The disappointing appearance was set aside, just enjoy.

The Spice and Seasoning had to be spot on to create the authentic Bradford Flavours. Pieces of Tomatoes and Green Chillies were mixed through the Masala. Capsicum ruins this Curry, I know, it was served to me that way, once. The Meat was cut small, not quite as small as one get in the great Bradford Curry Cafes, perhaps that’s – ein Schnitt zu weit?

Across the table, Clive was coming to terms with his never ending Naan, and his first Bradford Curry – in Glasgow.

An ideal level of spiciness – observed Clive – didn’t set my mouth on fire. Lively, without being dangerous.

Hector still regards the Roshan Lal as Akbar’sSignature Dish. Maybe one day I’ll try it in Yorkshire?

Karahi Gosht

Well, it does look identical to the Roshan Lal, so it demands the same criticism this evening regarding the Thinness of the Masala. I cannot remember Marg ever finishing a Curry here, usually a Soupçon comes in my direction. If I was offered any, it was declined, too busy taking care of my my own. Tonight Marg cleared her karahi, which simply proves that if she doesn’t indulge in Lamb Chops she can manage an entire Akbar’s Curry!

I did point out her comments from last visit when she simply couldn’t finish it due to the Spice Level. Tonight was a markedly different experience:

Plenty meat, in very edible cubes. I loved the coriander kick, and coped with my mouth on fire. I would have it again.

No doubt she will.

Having survived Hector’s Cooking for some twenty years, I know that Marg may comment on what she sees as an an excessive Spice Level, but it is rare that she is defeated.

Marg was also finished long before the rest of us. Had she missed lunch? Marg took the opperchancity to order a Milky Coffee (£2.50) which came in good time.

Karahi Gosht & Spinach

With the same garnish as above, this was visibly the driest of the three. The Spinach had been mixed through the Masala, this was not the mass of thick green herbs with meat chucked on top which Hector avoids. On receiving his Curry, John summoned Naveed and asked for chopped Ginger. Trips to Manchester have introduced John to the help yourself – Coriander, Chillies and Ginger in the Curry Cafes, the – foliage.

Dr. Stan emitted his usual – Mmmm – as he ate. Finally he gave some words:

Good spice, good balance. Maybe a bit too runny.

Runny? I wonder if we had been given our Order – Asian Style?

John loves Akbar’s, soon I shall take him for a Curry or five in Bradford:

Beyond excellent. Outstanding balance of flavour and spice with a lovely consistency, washed down by four four Chapattis.

The Bill

£91.00 Subtracting the Wine, five dined with Starters, for a very decent price.

The Aftermath

The cash sorted, we made our way to the exit. Even the staff who hadn’t served us, acknowledged our departure. This was Visit #20.

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Glasgow – Halal Kebab House – If you don’t ask…

When Hector last visited Halal Kebab House (164 Albert Drive, Glasgow, G41 2N6) in November last year, the Curry was truly outstanding. This was down to the Chef who had learned the secrets of Yadgar then went on to present food of the same quality at Lasani Grill (now Basharat G’z). I was told that a new menu was due to be printed and the display boards revamped. I suggested I wait a few months to let them achieve this goal.  I considered ten months should be enough time.

Arriving today at 14.55, Sajid, Mein Host, was standing in the doorway. The only sit-in customer was finishing his meal. This is Hector’s preferred time of day to eat also. I asked for a Menu, there was none. I studied the prepared Dishes on display, there was – something in Lamb. I then looked at the display boards, no Curry, though a paper sign hanging below offered Paya (£5.50) with a – free Naan. I would rather eat – Chicken – than – Trotters, that should tell all.

Sajid asked what I would like:

Lamb Karahi with a Chilli and Coriander Naan.

Spicy – was also agreed.

A glass dish full of Curry was taken to the kitchen from the array on display. Was the Chef who has been called – Habib – in these pages (perhaps wrongly) present?

Sajid brought a sheet of paper to act as a tablecloth, no frills here. No drink was offered, none was asked for. A couple of Takeaway Customers bought Kebaps, one suspects this may well be what sells most here. Perhaps the clue is in the name of the business?

Twelve minutes after placing the Order, Chef brought the Karahi Gosht and Naan, it was nobody I knew. He spotted I had no cutlery, a plastic fork was provided.

The Naan was in the Rogni style, the perforations preventing the Bread rising. Rogni Naan has clearly arrived in Glasgow (from Manchester). The filling of Coriander Leaves and slices of large Green Chillies was abundant. I would eat all but the final scrap. A decent Naan, though I still prefer the traditional – Tandoori.

Lamb Karahi

The aroma was identical to that of the Balti Gosht I had at India Palace (Gent) a couple of weeks ago. In that Curry I questioned the apparent lack of ingredients, in a few moments I would discover the addition of something unnecessary and decidedly unwelcome.

The Topping of Coriander Leaves and Stems meant I would not go short of – foliage. The Masala was of a suitably – Thick – consistency. I then  spotted the Capsicum. Tiny pieces of Green Peppers were mixed through the Masala. I could never have spotted these in the dish on display. Already I knew the Overall Flavour of this Curry would be distorted, was this the source of the aroma which was quite a stand out?

The Meat was beautifully soft, and having sat in the dish with the Masala had taken in the Flavours. In double figures, there was plenty of it. The Spice Level was more than acceptable, the Chillies in the Naan were adding to this. The Seasoning was well below the Hector level of expectation.

I picked out the pieces of Capsicum as I encountered them, who knows how many bits were consumed? The finely chopped Onions mixed through the Masala also made the task difficult.

Appearance-wise, today’s Lamb Karahi was identical to the Lamb Bhuna served here last year. In terms of Flavour today’s well well short. The Lamb Bhuna had been prepared by the hands of a master, not today’s.

The Bill

£10.00      Did Sajid say – Free Naan?

The Aftermath

I had to find out if my favoured Chef was still part of Halal Kebab House and so showed Sajid the photo of them both taken last November. I was told why he was not here, but was assured that – Chef Shah still comes in occasionally.

I hope our paths will cross again, without his expertise, Halal Kebab House offers little for Hector. 

Sajid asked if I had enjoyed the Curry. I had to point to the pile of Capsicum.  Sajid told me they had not been part of the Curry on display, Chef had only just added them!  It was suggested that I ask for the Capsicum to be withheld next time.

There’s a thought.

For hours afterwards, the taste of Capsicum lingered on the palate, I hate this.

Hector’s Log – Supplemental

Last night I cooked the semi-Curry that is Curried Eggs with Pork Cutlets.

Wasn’t this the first thing you ever cooked for me? – asked Marg.

Indeed, Hector’s – Standard Fayre, and something very–  safe.

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Glasgow – Yadgar Kebab House – Anything Can Happen In The Next Half Hour

Hector was flying solo this Saturday afternoon in Glasgow. An impromptu visit to Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP) was decided upon. Normally the Order is placed in advance, however, there are times when curiosity wins, what were today’s – Specials?

Naveed as ever, was manning the counter. He talked me through the various Dishes as I defined my limits:

No Chicken.

Liver?

No Liver.

This left Aloo Gosht and a Vegetable Melange which Naveed was careful not to call – Vegetable Curry.

Potatoes, Carrots, Peas – he listed.

To be a classic Vegetable Curry, Green Beans would have to be present, and perhaps Cauliflower also. A Chapatti (£0.60) completed the Order.

I took my seat at the rear of the premises, six chaps at the window were just finishing. Naveed brought the customary Mango Rubicon and asked if I desired Starters. This time, not.

The wait for the reheat was not long. One observation, Chef Arshad was once again nowhere to be seen, a lengthy vacation?

Naveed brought the food, what a contrast in styles.

Aloo Gosht

Six pieces of Lamb on-the-bone sat in a Shorva with one large piece of Potato. This was a modest portion compared to the usual sharing of a kilo. Here lies the great Shorva dilemma, accept this for being – Soup – or order Rice and soak it up. Today, the spoon was put to good use.

The Spice Level was no more than moderate. The Sucky Bones were fun, as always. There was only a hint of the famous Yadgar Flavour which makes me return here so often. Had I desired the full on Yadgar Experience then I would have pre-ordered, but I was confident that today’s Vegetable offering would supply that.

Potatoes, Carrots, Peas

How different was this? This mix of Vegetables never ceases to astonish. Just how does Chef capture the Yadgar Flavours in this creation? I have always put it down to the Carrots which also add a slight Sweetness, but those who know deny that this is so. Here was a beautifully Dry and Thick – Curry. The Chapatti was put to good use here, scooping the mass of Vegetables in the Minimal Masala.

This was truly magnificent. Naveed came to ask if I required anything else. Here was my opperchancity to express my feelings:

I could come here and eat this, or your Aloo Gobi, everyday.

This was why Hector came to Yadgar today.

The Bill

£10.00 A nice round figure.

The Aftermath

On Pollokshaws Road, I spotted that Shahed’s has re-opened on schedule. The place was stowed, every seating space at the shelves along the windows occupied. The Afghan Masala (£9.00) looks like the Curry which will attract Hector. If only they opened before 16.00.

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Glasgow – Koh-I-Noor – The End of an Era

It is with some sadness, but not surprise, Hector hears that the owners of the Koh-I-Noor (235 North Street, Glasgow, G3 7DL) announced its closure. Three generations have reportedly run the Koh-I-Noor, is this another example of the next generation not being interested? The premises were huge and no doubt hard to fill.  Hector has only visited once in the nearly ten years of Curry-Heute.

One of Glasgow’s oldest establishments the Koh-I-Noor concentrated on serving the tried and tested. For those dining north of the river, Buffet Curry may suit some. For those seeking the contemporary, then Akbar’s around the corner presently reigns supreme.

A single storey building, as was Cafe India before the fire, I wonder what will take its place?

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Glasgow – Charcoals Indian Restaurant – Generosity is a Byword

The number of venues open mid afternoon north of the river is limited. After the frustration last week in Belgium, of venues not open as published, Hector decided to return to an old faithful: Charcoals Indian Restaurant (26A Renfield St, Glasgow, G2 1LU). I knew I had not been here this year, when I checked and found my last visit was in November 2017, I was left wondering where the time has gone.

Ali, Mein Host, was near the doorway as I entered. He did the double take then shook hands – how have you been, buddy?

Ali was not present in my last couple of visits, so it is certainly years since our last encounter. He led me through to the back, knowing that I prefer to sit there and not be window dressing. As we walked I told him I was just back from Belgium where I have finally found decent Curry after years of eating what could only be described as substandard. Ali was of the opinion that such venues should employ proper Chefs and serve authentic Curry.

The Menu was brought. Main Courses have risen typically by £1.00, Fish Masala had risen by £3.00 to a whopping £14.95. One thing I have observed across Europe is that Fish Curry is rarely more expensive than Meat. With an abundance of Fresh Fish on our doorstep, why we are expected to pay a premium still puzzles.

Adraki Gosht (£10.95) was considered in one of my first visits here, but over the years other dishes have distracted. A medium hot curry of lamb with fresh adrak along with flavour of pyaz – says the menu. Adrak? Ginger. Pyaz? Onion. As always, I asked that no Peppers would appear in my Curry. A Chilli and Coriander Naan (£3.50) completed the food order. A warm glass of Tap Water would be my refreshment.

Ali went up to the kitchen hatch, I heard him relay the Order, I picked up the words – Capsicum – and – Desi-style. He returned after a few minutes with a Poppadom, Salad and what he called – Fish Pakora, all complimentary.

The Poppadom was decidedly different from those one usually encounters. This was well fired and had a dusting of Paprika, or similar. The pot contained a Chickpea Salad topped with a Chilli Sauce. With the Fish, this was quite a Starter.

Ali did say I would call the – Pakora – something else.

Indeed. The four strips of Fish encrusted with Sesame Seeds had clearly been baked. Without batter, this was not – Pakora – per se. Spicy Baked Fish, I love it. The back of Charcoals is dimly lit, so I had no chance in identifying the Fish, or the coating, Whatever, it was delicious, and the Salad added a welcomed Diversity.

It is not only Hector that Ali at Charcoals is famed for feeding. I had to mention that I have seen Ali in various publications, famous for feeding Glasgow’s homeless. He recognises that his business is doing well and he feels he must give something back.

You can’t take it with you – is his humble philosophy.

A waiter brought the Mains. No vegetables on top – added Ali who was nearby.

Chilli and Coriander Naan

This was a delightful Naan, puffy with the required burnt extremities. There was a forest of foliage, plenty of sliced Green Chillies and Coriander leaves. The Naan had been scored to create quarters but was still – whole. That I could forgive. The size was well judged, I would manage to eat every piece of this excellent Naan, no wastage. However, I could question the size vis-a-vis the price.

Adraki Gosht

Fresh Coriander topped a dark, thick, rich Masala. Tomato Seeds were visible in the melange, plus flecks of what I took to be Ginger, though again the dim light prevented me being sure. The Meat was in large pieces and easily into double figures, this was quite a potful.

The Spice was very evident from the start, as was the Seasoning. This Curry has Spice, Seasoning and a very distinctive Flavour. But, there was no – Wow! I have always enjoyed my Curry at Charcoals, but as yet have not experienced anything that would make come more regularly. Glasgow’s Southside is where it’s at.

The Chilli kicked in, the Spice Level went up another notch. The tip of my tongue was asking me questions, why the masochism?

Ali came to check on my progress. I had to praise the Spice and the Seasoning and got my dig in about Chefs who are diffident when it comes to adding the Seasoning. Ali was in agreement.

Then there was the Meat. The first couple of pieces had me marvelling at the Quality, I had nothing like this served to me in Belgium last week. Welcome back to Scottish Lamb. The next few pieces had me wondering, this was close to the chewy-gristly experience of Gent and Brussel. Then again the Meat was excellent. Finally, the last piece was bewildering – Horse! – was my note on the quality of the Meat. The last piece was so chewy it was beyond belief. Methinks the Lamb Pot had recently been topped up with Fresh Meat that was not as well cooked as what was already in, else this was a mixture of Lamb and Mutton. So it goes.

The Bill

£14.45  I think I had my money’s worth.

The Aftermath

It is years since I took a photo of Ali, Chef was summoned to take the photo. Inevitably there was photo of Chef and Ali. I promised not to wait another twenty two months to return.

As I walked towards Sauchiehall St., I marvelled at how the Flavours of the Adraki Gosht lingered on the palate. This appears to be a feature of late. Mmmm.

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Brussel – Chilli Grill – Hector on a Mission

The recurring thread this week in Belgium has been about turning up at venues to find they are not open at the advertised times. This has happened twice and on consecutive days, (…writes Hector,  trying to avoid a tautology) here at Chilli Grill (Rue Antoine Dansaert 172, 1000 Brussel, Belgium) and Gent’s – Punjab Tandoori. Hector’s mission this week was to maximise his Curry intake at both of these venues subject therefore to being able to add them both to – Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses. One year ago, this would never have been considered as a worthy aim, such is the poverty of Curry served across this land. However, these two venues have convinced this writer that Curry, as good as that served in the UK’s better venues, is also available here.

It was with confidence that I led Howard through the backstreets of Brussel from Anneessens to Rue Antoine Dansaert. On arrival, I offered Howard the choice of Curry then Bier, or Bier-Curry-Bier. He chose the latter, alas the adjacent  Brussels Beer Project does not open on a Sunday, why did we not know that? So no – BBC@BBP – for those who understand the reference.

Mein Host at Chilli Grill was front of house. We took our seats, he stood in what I now recognise as – his spot – to take the Order.

Mutton achari (€8.50)? – I called across the narrow space between tables and counter.

This was repeated by Mein Host in the direction of the kitchen. A colleague then appeared at the door of the kitchen clutching a leg of Lamb/Beef. The Meat had only recently arrived, there would be no Meat Curry served at Chilli Grill before early evening.

No Chicken – was my next request, that left Vegetables. The Vegetable Curry on display was in the classic style, I would have been content to have had this.

Vegetable Thali? (€10.95) – was Mein Host’s suggestion.

Thali is a Dish which gets mentioned more often in Curry-Heute than it is consumed. It may seen as the food of last resort, a mini-buffet with a predomination of Vegetables. This is never therefore, a first choice.

No Saag/Palak –  I did not fancy a mass of – Green – this afternoon.

Cauliflower?

Please, I love Aloo Gobi.

Okra, Potato and Aubergine were then offered. That should offer sufficient diversity.

Desi-style – I proferred, just in case this may enhance today’s experience.

Desi, Desi, Desi – said Mein Host as he went about assembling the Order.

I watched as the various components were taken away to be reheated, including a huge tub of Basmati. The bag of Rice which I had seen guarded yesterday at the end of the row of seats, was still in situ. A tennis racquet sat on the shelf at the doorway. Hit and Miss – may well describe one’s experience at Chilli Grill, I noted.

The aroma wafting from the kitchen had Hector back onside. Bring it on!

Thali Plate

Cauliflower featured twice in the assembled array, once as Pulp in the centre, then in larger pieces in one segment. The Okra stood out in terms of the Oil, similar to the Masala which accompanied my outstanding Mutton Karahi yesterday. Potato and Aubergine sat in a Masala rich in Tomato Seeds, something different again. This was accompanied by a Wholemeal Chapatti served in quarters and a portion of Rice topped with slices of Green Chilli cut lengthwise.

So, how does one eat a Thali?

The Hector method was to use the Bread to scoop up part of one segment, then scrape the rice across the metal plate to fill the gap so that Curry and Rice could be fabricated. Howard was using a knife and a fork. So it goes.

The Okra was decidedly – Sweet. The texture was – Soft – suggesting that this had been in existence for a while. I prefer my Okra to still have some firmness, though having cooked it oft, I know what happens when one has to reheat it. Okra is best served freshly cooked. The Cauliflower was soon realised to be the highlight of this assembly. The Spice was there, aided by the Green Chillies, an Earthy Flavour came across. Howard mentioned how he has come to increasingly appreciate Cauliflower in recent times. The Potato and Aubergine proved to be a worthy inclusion, the Tomato-based Masala being true to the essence of Punjabi Cuisine. All of the Chapatti was eaten, much of it being used as wipes. There was more Rice than either of us could manage. I deliberately arranged my surplus in the centre for artistic reasons.

Much as I had enjoyed what had been served, it was a pity that the aforementioned Vegetable Curry was not part of the Thali. Next time I shall try and have a Soupçon.

Howard had a few words:

A great mix of textures and flavours. An enjoyable vegetable melange, and the spice level was spot on.

But not what we came for – was the Hector riposte.

I had to challenge Mein Host about the first phone number given on his Menu, and as published on Google Maps. It does not work from my Huawei, whilst the second one does. He used one phone to contact another, the first number does work, but maybe only for those in Belgium with Belgian phones. Be safe, use the second.

For my next visit, Mein Host suggested I contact him in advance and he would prepare – Kunna – especially. Kunna – I had never heard of. He began to describe this Punjabi dish. It sounded like – Nihari. This he acknowledged, but insisted that the Shorva would be quite different.

I said I would send a postcard. Curry-Heute postcards?

Curryspondent Ahmed (Islamabad) – this is one for you to comment upon.

The Bill

21.00 (£18.75) I love the food, I love the prices, now just let’s get the opening times sorted.

The Aftermath

As outlined earlier this week, I had adopted various measures to establish opening times. This reply arrived as Howard and Hector sat in Poechenellekelder. It may be lost in translation.

My conclusion over the last three days in Brussel: if one wishes to guarantee the enjoyment of the Best Curry found to date in Belgium, do come to Chilli Grill but leave it to @17.00.

Until next year, hopefully.  Sadly, for this year, mission not accomplished.

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