Edinburgh – Desi Pakwan – Kharra?

Posted on January 8, 2020 by Hector

In the past month, Hector’s Curry intake has been quite diverse: Soupy Curry and Creamy Curry have appeared and have been enjoyed, even – Chicken Curry! – though I am still trying to get over the shocking Fisch Jalferezi served in Oranienburg (Deutschland).

2019 was planned to be the year in which the Curry-Heute coverage of Edinburgh Curry was expanded. In February, Hector took himself to the limits of Leith to visit the impressive Desi Pakwan (61 Leith Walk, Edinburgh EH6 8LS). In April, Mr. Snax put Rustom House on the radar. The Company almost moved in there over the following weeks, then that was it, Edinburgh Curry  no more, until today.

Hector had unfinished business at Desi Pakwan. The Desi Lamb Karahi (£12.50) sold by the half kilo, and taking a reported forty five minutes to prepare, was today’s objective. Arriving at a safe 14.15, the premises were empty apart from Chef who cooked for me last time when I had the standard Lamb Karahi (£9.95). He invited to me to take a Menu and choose my table. For once, Hector chose to be – window dressing.

The Achari Naan (£2.95) worked well last time, Achari Naan! This time, Achari Paratha (£3.25) would accompany. A Paratha costs more than a Naan? More labour intensive, if prepared properly.

I went up to the counter separating the dining area from the open kitchen to give the Order. Chef warned me it would take half an hour, I was prepared for this. I once again checked that no Capsicum would find its way into the Karahi, this provoked the right reaction. Chef assured me:

No, no, I don’t put Capsicum, different system.

So, how does one amuse oneself for thirty minutes in an empty Curry House? By studying the Menu in detail and planning what to have in future visits, assuming today’s Desi Lamb Karahi wouldn’t do a – Rustom Restaurant – and hook the Hector.

North Indian Bhuna (£9.75) features – Bullet Chillies and Methi – Mmmm. Tawa Chanp (£10.95) features Lamb Chops and Julienne Peppers, lose the Peppers. Kofta Kebabi Handi (£8.95) should be Meatballs in a Masala of Chef’s choosing, similarly the Lamb Handi (£9.95). Grilled Lamb Chop Balti (£11.95), so not Desi Lamb Chop Karahi as served so magnificently at Yadgar (Glasgow) but presumably worth a try. I noted with interest that six Lamb Chops are available – Sizzling Lamb Chops (£11.95) – at a very competitive price. Salivating yet?

All of these could have me back soon, however, one more Dish stood out – Kharra Masala Stew (£9.95). Hopefully – Kharra – is being used as it has appeared periodically in Curry-Heute with reference to – Seasoning – and does not refer to the village in Maharashta (India).

So many quality choices, the people of Leith are fortunate to have this on their doorstep. Actually, it’s only ten minutes on the bus from Waverley. How many project venues can Hector run simultaneously?

I returned from checking the Facilities, hand dryer out of order, to find my meal waiting. A glass of tap water accompanied, thank you, I had no liquid accompaniment last time. Where is the fridge for drinks? How have I missed this? It was 14.35, the Desi Lamb Karahi had taken only ten minutes longer to prepare than my Lamb Karahi.

The Paratha was a good size, most certainly thicker than the norm. The layering was present, it was soft, which is why I had not ordered the Lachi Paratha (£2.50) which was described as – crispy. The – swirl – was evident, I liked the Herb topping also. It was a pity the flour was – wholemeal. Tanjore – South Indian Restaurant – serve my favouritist (sic) Paratha in Edinburgh.

Desi Lamb Karahi

Visually, there was no difference between this and the standard Lamb Karahi enjoyed here last February, though the quantity was appreciable larger. A half kilo, the perfect amount when served – on-the-bone. The absence of Oil on the periphery of the mass of Masala impressed, as did the thickness of the Masala. The colour looked natural, again the horror story that was Oranienburg may have scarred Hector.

Why did I order the Achari Paratha? I knew at once that this was not appropriate, the Flavours from the Desi Karahi were going to be drowned by – Pickle. I had to work hard to avoid this. Setting the Paratha aside, I concentrated on tasting the Masala. The Seasoning was below what I hope for, so not – Kharra! The sliced large Green Chillies provided a worthy – Kick. The Meat was delightfully – Tender – and far from pulp, I congratulate Chef for getting the Lamb spot on. The Masala looked – Authentic Desi. The Masala was Tomato-rich but not necessarily sans Onion – is what I wrote last time re the Lamb Karahi, this was pretty much the same. Indeed, I was trying to establish how this differed from the – Standard Karahi. I tackled some of the Meat on-the-bone, here was the difference. I left the – sucky bone – to the end, the bone marrow adds so much. Mmmm.

Back to the Paratha, I ate nearly all of it. The – Achari – element did obscure some of the Desi Flavour, then nature intervened. The Oil finally separated from the Masala, time to dip some Bread … the intensity of Flavour in the Oil complemented the Achari, success.

A chap came in and chatted with Chef in the open kitchen, clearly Mein Host. He looked over and asked the customary question with a fine example of minimalism:

Good?

I nodded as I ate on. This Desi Lamb Karahi was indeed – Good. I would have it again, and without Achari Bread. Today the – wow! – was not present. More Seasoning and who knows – Kharra?

The Bill

£15.75 A very competitive price for the half kilo.

The Aftermath

I engaged with Mein Host, Afan, and introduced Curry-Heute – which will have been ten years in operation three months from today. We chatted about Curry, my favourite part of hosting Curry-Heute. Afan confirmed the Masala had a – Fresh Tomato – base with some Onions and tested my appreciation that this was way better than the standard blended Masala of the Mainstream Curry House.

Desi Pakwan has been in operation for some five years. Afan claimed that he was the first in Scotland to served Karahi on-the-bone and by the kilo. Perhaps in the east, however, Yadgar (Glasgow) have been serving this from a time pre Curry-Heute. PCH, a new calendar?

Opening times have been an issue since my first attempt at Currying here. If memory serves correctly, he said Desi Pakwan is open from noon Monday to Thursday, and from 14.00 at weekends. Having noted the Desi Breakfast (£4.00) served on Saturdays and Sundays from 09.30, there had to be exceptions to the stated opening times. The Desi Breakfast is an occasional feature, running for a few weeks at a time. Hector cannot see himself in Edinburgh that early, unless…

Lazeez Tandoori and Kebab Mahal are the two other Punjabi Curry Houses in Edinburgh that I have found to date. In terms of ambiance, Desi Pakwan wins hand down. So many dishes here yet to sample, if Chef were to have the Seasoning tuned to the Hector palate, the – Wow! – would surely come.

Menu extracts

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Glasgow – Charcoals Indian Restaurant – #1 Curry of 2020

Posted on January 4, 2020 by Hector

With public transport reinstated, Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley were no longer captives at Hector’s House. Before the first assembly of – The Company – in full this year, a mid-afternoon Curry was necessary. Hector let Clive choose the venue. With staying in the city centre in mind, Charcoals (26A Renfield St, Glasgow, G2 1LU) would become the locus of – the first Curry of 2020.

Arriving at 14.30, all the tables front of house were occupied. At 14.00 the Pre-Theatre Menu (£9.95) replaces the Executive Lunch Menu (£6.95), as is the Hector norm, we would dine a la carte. Mr. Ali greeted us as we entered and showed us to a table in the rear of the premises. As we studied the menu he offered – Poppadoms for the table. There was a collective hesitancy, no choices had been made, he gave us more time.

On Clive’s first visit here he ordered the Chicken Charcoals Goldie (£10.95). Very pleasant, Maggie could eat this – was his verdict. Alas today, Maggie was in the same mindset as Hector, something light was required after the excess of food in previous days. We would both have Fish Masala (£14.95), the most expensive Curry on the Menu, and £3.00 more than charged last time I had it, just over two years ago. In Europe, the price of Fish Curry is typically less than Meat, not so in the UK. Let’s see what happens this time next year after Brexit is due to be completed, we are told.

I read a selection of Dishes to Clive, Keema Aloo (£10.95) – with a kick – suited his requirements today. To accompany, a Keema Paratha was sought, though only Keema Naan (£3.50) is on the Menu, we would ask. Mushroom Rice (£3.25) was a worthy accompaniment for the Fish Masala last time, I suggested this to Maggie, she declined both Rice and Bread.

Ali took the Order, the Keema Paratha was not a problem.  I asked him to ensure that no Capsicum, either green, red, yellow or tartan would appear in my Curry.

I’ll have his – exclaimed Maggie.

One bottle of Sparkling Water (£1.75) and two Still (£1.75) would complete the Order.

Moments later, two Peppery Poppadoms, Spiced Onions and three Dips were placed on the table. This would have kept us amused, however, as is the way at Charcoals, Ali brought complimentary Starters to the table.

Without capsicum – he said – placing a plateful of Chicken Pakora in front of me. Maggie received a plate of Paneer garnished with multicoloured Capsicum plus Onion, a Chat.

The right amount of kick – was Clive’s verdict on the Chat.

It blew Maggie away. I noted that the Cheese and Onion were eaten, the Peppers were not. I rest my case. The thankfully subtle taste of Coconut hit the Hector palate, it must have been in the batter on the Chicken, interesting.

Clive asked if the complimentary Starters had come because Ali knew I would be writing a review, or if this was the norm. The – extras – have only ever been presented when Ali was on duty. I offered a third possibility. It is possible the – extras – arrive because we have chosen from the a la carte Menu and so by default are spending possibly twice as much as the customers who choose from the aforementioned – Menu deals.

The Keema Paratha was a sensible size, i.e. manageable by one person. The Mince had been spread finely and crucially displayed – brown grains – not the dreaded – pink blob. Having taken a plateful of Mushroom Rice, I offered the leftover to Maggie, she accepted. Whole Green Chillies had been cooked into the Rice also, here we go.

Fish Masala

The Aloo Karahi Gosht I cooked for Carnoustie last week set the standard for – The Hector Curry. The Chicken Korma I cooked for Hogmanay was the antithesis. Today’s Soupy Curry was very much a continuation of the latter in terms of Texture, a Creamy Masala. However, with the given description of – South Indian Masala – this Fish Masala  was possibly closer in Flavour to the former.

I arranged the Haddock over the Rice, it was a case of fishing out the solids. It took a few minutes to find it all, the pot was left half full with the Creamy, Peppery Masala. I spooned what I thought was a suitable amount of Masala over the Fish and Rice, in the end it would all be taken. This Curry needed Rice.

Coconut Milk – was also in the given description, fortunately, the taste of Coconut was once again not overwhelming, sweetness avoided. The Spice Level impressed, as the Chillies were encountered, so this built. The White Fish worked well with this Masala. The Peppery, possibly Nutty, Flavours came through, eventually I could taste that which attracted me to this Curry first time around, namely – the Smokey South Indian Flavours.

This would have been enough, Ali had other ideas. A full pot of Vegetable Curry and some – Special Bread – were added to the feast. The Bread appeared to be a stuffed Paratha, as with the Keema Paratha, Potato may have been spread thinly inside, an Aloo Paratha. This was enough to give Maggie a further option, I took one of the quarters to mop up some Masala. The best of both Worlds, but further confirmation that the Fish Masala needed Rice on a practical level.

Maggie offered a few words:

This Masala was not a Korma as you know it. Not as good as your Chicken Korma where the spice built. This was either hot or not hot. Very tasty, didn’t know that coconut went with fish, but it does.

Vegetable Curry

This looked like the whole shebang, Carrots, Peas, Potatoes, Green beans and Sweetcorn were present. I placed a share on the side of my plate. This could have been the – extra – which turned the meal into something truly memorable. If it did, it was for the wrong reasons. The Flavour was reminiscent of the – Fisch Jahlferezi – I struggled to eat last month at MIRA (Oranienburg). The tangy taste of Chilli Sauce does not sit well on Hector’s palate, today’s – sauce – tasted like Chilli with hint of Pickle. I simply could not eat it. Maggie had a Soupçon, Clive ate nearly all of it, he had no problems.

Keema Aloo

Topped with Ginger Strips, a slice of Tomato and a sprinkling of Coriander, this was as – Dry – a Keema as I have encountered. Dry – is good. Had I ordered this, I would have eaten straight from the pot. In doing so, I would have missed the sheer quantity that was present here. On decanting, more slices of Tomato were revealed along with copious sliced Green Chillies. Charcoals’ Keema Aloo has not appeared in Curry-Heute before, I know what Hector will be having next time, and next time will have to be soon. This looked like a – damn fine Keema Aloo. Clive:

Ach – he began – as requested, that was Keema with a kick, definitely some fire in there.

Ali had been over to check on our progress, all was well. It was after 16.00, time to make our exit.

The Bill

£52.85     I can confirm the Keema Paratha cost £3.50.

The Aftermath

Fifteen of us would eventually assemble at the State Bar, – The Company.

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Peanut Masala Chat – goes down well

Posted on January 1, 2020 by Hector

Happy New Year!  There is no Curry-Heute, however, this simple snack could be one for your next gathering. 

Having been impressed by the Peanut Masala Chat served in Carnoustie last week, Hector thought he would have a go.  The assembled six devoured the entire bowl in no time at all. Very simple to prepare, Peanut Masala Chat is so much better than just putting out a bowl of nuts. The recipe is here.

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Home-cooked Curry for Hogmanay in Helensburgh

Posted on December 31, 2019 by Hector

New Year in Helensburgh, who would have thought? This was turning the clock back. Steve and Louise would be the hosts for the evening, Steve would cook a Curry, Hector was invited to provide also. With Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley in Scotland for the festive period, Hector decided to cook something markedly different from the norm. Competing with Steve’s presumed Lamb Curry would be bad form. Chicken Korma came to mind, especially with the knowledge that Clive and Maggie share the view that this notoriously bland Curry does not have to be served that way.

The Chicken Korma recipe as featured in Curry-Heute dates back to the Curry course undertaken by Hector some twenty years ago. This recipe evolved into – Kashmiri – with the addition of Raisins/Sultanas and flaked Almonds. On my birthday visit to Punajbi (Ibrox), Jazzy mentioned the rise in price of Cashew nuts.

Having purchased a 2kg bag of cooking quality Cashews recently, at what I thought was a good price, it was a matter when would I use them. I decided to thicken the Masala with @100g of ground Cashews. A kilo and a half of Halal Chicken Thighs (boneless) was purchased from the Scotstoun Asian Grocer.

Large Green Chillies which proved to be – slow burners – in last week’s Carnoustie Curry were added.

Plantain, the Creamy Masala should surely go well with this underused Vegetable.

The Plantain was sliced and fried, the only way I have ever cooked it.

Finally, Garlic Mushrooms were added in the final minutes along with the Creamed and Dessicated Coconut. A fiery Chicken Korma with Interesting Vegetables, possibly a challenge for some.

Steve had prepared a standard Mutton Curry.

Steve’s Curry skills have a common origin to my own being the first to adopt then adapt the Recipes from the Curry Course I attended. He had also prepared a Spicy Rice.  Like Marg, Louise likes to stir the pot and claim creative rights.

Poppadoms and Spicy Onions kicked off the ritual eating of the Curry.

After Dr. Alasdair’s impressive Spiced Onions I was surprised to find Steve’s of the same quality. Is there an online recipe which is enabling this? I had brought extra Green Chillies, Steve had the Fresh Coriander, the – foliage – was set out.

We were nine diners, familiar faces, though Carolyn makes her debut on Curry-Heute. As always, there was more Curry than we could eat, people should not go hungry.

Mutton Curry

The Meat had been well cooked, soft and Tender. The ratio of Meat to Masala was favourable. The Masala did not appear to have been blended, when not necessary, why would you? Steve had pitched the Spice Level appropriately for the mixed company.

Chicken Korma

The ground Cashews had thickened the blended Masala as was the plan. The Coconut was not excessive, therefore the Curry was not too Sweet. Nobody appeared to notice the presence of Plantain. Marg did raise it, I had to fish out a piece for Tracey who had previously experienced it in Caribbean Cuisine. As always, Tracey would not eat the Mushrooms. Apparently, those born in the USA are brought up on tinned mushrooms which are disgusting.

Maggie and Clive were first to sample the Masala, they had identical reactions. The expectations associated with Chicken Korma were met, then…bang! These Chillies are not so easy to find, they could have set a new standard. I thought the Spice grew but did not become overwhelming. Marg did say she preferred Steve’s less demanding Mutton Curry.  So it goes.

Hector enjoying a Korma, a Chicken Korma. Perhaps a return to – The Village – for their Lamb Desi Korma is overdue. I believe everyone returned for seconds, as with Carnoustie, Hector was last to finish.

Happy New Year!

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Hector Cooks for Carnoustie 2019 – Aloo Karahi Gosht

Posted on December 28, 2019 by Hector

It’s December 28th, once again Hector and Marg have been invited to stay over on our trip south to feed The Carnoustie Two and invited guests.

Having presented Aloo Gosht Methi Achari back in 2016, disappointment was expressed regarding the boneless Lamb. It was very much a case of what might suit the majority.  Since then there has been a clear demand for – Lamb on-the-bone. The excellent New Spice of Asia (54 John St, Aberdeen AB25 1LL) has everything Hector-le-Chef could possibly need. Two and half kilos of Shoulder Lamb on-the-bone (@£22.00) was purchased two days ago, the car boot provided suitable refrigeration until the preparation could get underway.

Having watched many clips on YouTube on how to create Karahi Gosht, I have reached the conclusion that there is no definitive method. Some start with browning the Lamb in fried Spices then adding the Onions later. Sealing the Meat is too European an approach. At home I would have used the pressure cooker with ground Garam Masala mixed into Oily Water. This time I fried the whole ingredients for a Garam Masala in Oil then added water before the Meat. As I had lots of Fresh Coriander, it went in also. I gave the Lamb a full hour plus to ensure it would be cooked – Tender. Restaurateurs have convinced me not to try and cook the Lamb in the Masala, it burns the sauce. The Meat was removed from the liquid. The liquid could have been used as a Spicy Stock for Soup had I been at home.  Sadly, it was dumped, there was no demand for Hector’s Soup this year.

The Masala was therefore cooked separately. Having only managed to source sliced frozen Onions (two bags), I gave them an hour in a half litre of Oil to hopefully start the Masala Mash. Thereafter three tins of Tomatoes, two finely chopped fresh Garlic bulbs, diced Ginger and the usual Spices were added.

It took one hundred minutes to create the Masala Mash, the Lamb was added for some twenty minutes more. During this time, nine Potatoes were cut to bite-size and cooked al dente.

With the near Curry off the gas, the Potatoes were added and the mix left to cool. The Oil which separated was minimal. Given what I have written about Basharat G’z (Glasgow) in recent weeks, this – Curry – was already a success. The Curry was removed from the pot for transportation and left overnight.

Two Tablespoons of the Chettinad-style Garam Masala I made a couple of months back, plus an entire bunch of Fresh Coriander was all that I anticipated being added some ten minutes before serving. Somehow today’s reheat would take over an hour.

On arriving in Carnoustie, Dr. Alasdair had a mass of dough prepared for Naan. He was putting the finishing touches to something new – Peanut Masala Chat. He needed Coriander, I had brought plenty.  This was followed by his Spiced Onions which featured ketchup and Tabasco as the colourant and Spice. A bag of Chapatti Flour sat on the counter, surely the dough had to be prepared much earlier?

Dr. Alasdair has made better Chapattis. Hector remains to be convinced that induction hobs are not just a gimmick, only cooking on gas gives full control. The Chapattis became burnt and crispy far too quickly.

The Naan dough proved to be too moist to roll out. Paul came to the rescue and demonstrated his Bread making skills. With Chapatti Flour added, he managed to roll out out about half a dozen Naans. Had Paul not stepped in,  we could have been waiting all night for sufficient Naans to be ready. Margie, our co-host, asked for a three minute warning before serving the Rice, this was her night off from cooking after the previous hectic days. Margie also had some leftover Daal to add further diversity to the meal. Hector declined to make Paratha.

*

Meanwhile, the Curry took over half an hour to approach anything like – hot. Mags had some Tomatoes which needed using – put them in the Curry! With the Coriander, more Chillies and the Garam Masala added, it was a matter of not letting the Meat and Potatoes turn to pulp. A further detail, whilst the Oil separated, there was still a minimal quantity.

Knowing how many Chillies I had added to the Curry, it was never going to be – bland. Just in case one of the co-diners needed more, I prepared – The Foliage.

It’s a Manchester thing – I announced.

With the shop bought Poppadoms, Onion Chutney and the very impressive Peanut Masala Chat taken care of, it was finally time to call a halt to the Bread making and hopefully enjoy the Aloo Karahi Gosht.

Aloo Karahi Gosht

In recent months, the Hector objective has been to merge two styles Curry from opposite ends of  the Indian compass: the Punjabi Karahi with the Smokey Flavours of South India. The Texture looked absolutely perfect, Thick, and as far from Soup as Curry can be. Having not blended the Masala, the Mash looked truly authentic.

It tastes like my Curry – was my remark to Marg when I started eating.

Marg saw this as a positive, I always hope that somehow I’ll create a radically new outcome. The Spice Level was such that it built up throughout the eating, it was not a case of the first mouthful being off-putting. Marg managed, so it was not ridiculous. The Seasoning had been adjusted in the final minutes before serving, again not in the face, well pitched, not brave.

I now understood why this Lamb was cheaper than expected, there was an abundance of bones, nobody complained. This is what I had been asked to cook. There was a plenty of Curry, so the piles of bones that accumulated were never an issue.

The Meat was easily the best I have ever prepared. The Texture was spot on, so Tender. The stock I had created had permeated the Lamb, this Meat was – giving Flavour. Marg and our hosts both commented on how pleasing the Lamb was. The Potatoes had also absorbed the Flavours from the Masala, they had remained coherent, phew!

Of the eight diners, two took a modest portion each then stopped. (It was explained to me later why this was so, and not necessarily a reflection on the fayre). Everyone else had seconds, some had thirds. Hector was last to stop eating. This Aloo Karahi Gosht was as good a – Hector Curry – as ever presented.

I always ensure that there is more food than the diners can eat, no small portions, no running out of Curry. When it was time to clear up I had to photograph the remnants, look at how little Oil had accumulated.

To bring Hector back down to Earth, one fellow diner did admit that she had preferred the Machi Masala from a couple of years back. I have been commissioned for another Curry next year, Kofta Anda would be quite a departure, I have a year to learn how to make – Shorva. Will it taste the same as tonight’s Masala? All being well, we shall see.

Two days later…

I gave Howard a portion that was brought back from Carnoustie. I asked for his opinion without prompting him as to why.  Howard’s verdict:

Spot on Mr T. Bought a Paratha to go with it. Decanted half and was stunning. Tasted like something from Yadgar or KP. If it had been poor I would have been kind and said it was ok. Didn’t need to. Depth of flavour and spice at the high end which I liked. Methinks you are getting to professional level. Thank you.

He didn’t pick up on the quality of the Meat, ah well, the flavours impressed.

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Aberdeen – Shri Bheema’s (Bridge of Don) – Ho-Ho-Ho Curry-Heute!

Posted on December 25, 2019 by Hector

For reasons various, this was the first December 25th since 1998 with Bier but without the traditional turkey dinner. Marg promised Hector there would be Curry-Heute. She knows the rule, once agreed, no going back.

I phoned Shri Bheema’s (Balgownie Road, Nevis Business Park, Bridge of Don, Aberdeen AB22 8NT) late afternoon to verify that they were open, and that the a la carte Menu would be available. All was well. We eventually arrived at 18.40 to find a group of ten just finishing, the rest of the restaurant was empty.

Tony, Mein Host, greeted us both with hugs. He was surprised to see us – on this of all days – as he put it. Our visits to this Aberdeen Curry House, now chain, have been sporadic. It is one day short of two years since our last visit, yet we have always been recognised, something perhaps to do with the positive write-ups over the years. Yet, on their day, nothing in the city matches the Punjabi Cuisine at Lahore Karahi, they were closed today. I had reconciled myself to – the Flavours of South India.

A young chap took the drinks order. We have had large bottles of Sparkling Water here in the past, tonight we had to accept two small bottles. I was nearly tempted by Shri Bheema’s own branded IPA. I should have asked by whom, and where, it was brewed.

Last time Marg had the Kanchi Lamb Curry (£18.99). Such was the portion size, quite a bit of it came my way. I was determined to have this tonight. Marg considered the same again, but thought something else would be more appropriate for the purposes of Curry-Heute. Tony admitted that the few portions of Marg’s next choice –  Dum Ki Nalli (£19.99) had gone. He suggested that the Murgh Hara Dhania (£18.99) could be done in Lamb instead of Chicken, so – Hara Dhania Gosht – then. Check the prices.

The Dum Ki Nalli would have featured an inclusive Tandoori Roti (£3.49). I believe both of our actual choices included Rice, however, I was determined to have Vegetables and so asked for Vegetable Fried Rice (£5.99). Marg was offered Plain Rice but stuck to her preferred Roti option. As always, I asked that no Capsicum appear in any part of our Order.

Marg’s Roti scuppered my plan to share a Paratha (£3.99). The Parathas are always perfect at Shri Bheema’s. I cannot let this review go any further without highlighting the price of a solitary Chapatti – £2.99! This gives the good people of Bradford apoplexy, they are used to three or four being inclusive with every Curry. When I’m in Bradford I always refer to – the price of Bread in Aberdoom, when I’m in Aberdoom I still cannot believe what restaurants charge. Only the aforementioned Lahore Karahi has the price of Bread at something approaching the realistic for – flour and water.

The young chap brought hot plates. Tony took them away, our Curry was not coming in an instant. The plates were never returned, Chef had other ideas.

When Tony placed our respective Main Dishes before us, he admitted that both were identical. The description of the Hara Dhania has a – one Chilli – rating and mentions – fresh coriander. The Kanchi Lamb Curry has a – two Chilli – rating yet is described as – mild – and also mentions – spring onion. The photos below raise the question – did we have each other’s Curry?

The portion of Vegetable Fried Rice was enough for two diners. Perhaps the Menu should make this clear? Curry-Heute does, this is Hector’s role. Featuring Peas, Green Beans, Broad Beans, Cauliflower, Onion, Carrots, Cabbage Sweetcorn and Potatoes, this was a veritable cornucopia, exactly what I seek from a Vegetable Rice – Diversity. The Tandoori Roti was large and served in two pieces. Why not just fold it and let the diner tear off strips as required? The Roti alone would not suit the nature of the Curry served, I encouraged Marg to take some Rice also.

Salty – said Marg as soon as she sampled the Rice.

For Hector, this was a good start.

Kanchi Lamb Curry

Note the topping of – Fresh Coriander!

OK, it’s a classic Soupy Curry, the type of Curry Hector typically writes off, unless…

Served in a soup plate, how appropriate, there was no option but to pile the Rice on top of the Masala then stir it in. This always feels strange, one is used to adding Curry to Rice and watch the Masala soak in. The Meat count did not initially appear to justify the price, however, every piece was decidedly – large. There would be no shortage of food.

The Spice and the Seasoning were well pitched, this Curry would be all about what happened next. Slowly the hoped for – Smokey Flavours – associated with – Chettinadu-style Curry – were registered on the palate. Success.

As I ate on so the Spice Level seemed to register further up the scale. I piled on more Rice, the array of – Interesting Vegetables – was a distraction from the Soupy Masala. The photo of this same Curry two years ago shows a much thicker Masala and Tomatoes on top. Hector always prefers a – Thick and Minimal Masala. To have ordered only Bread with this Curry would be a near catastrophic error, it needed the abundant Rice.

*

Hara Dhania – Gosht

Note the topping of Syboes – Spring Onion!

Identical indeed to the Kanchi, I had to sample this Curry. I could not tell any difference yet the preparations were decidedly different according to the Menu. Marg fished out a Clove and what might have been a Cardamom shell, otherwise we saw no difference.

The Roti disappeared in no time, a second would have been ideal, but who orders two Rotis in Aberdeen? Marg did her best to help me finish the Rice, we admitted defeat eventually.

I was wondering if the Spice Level was too much for Marg, no problems were reported. Eventually, Marg waved the white flag, a couple of pieces of Meat and quite a bit of the Masala were piled on top of my remnants. Hector had his fill and still could not tell the Dishes apart. Marg was impressed by what she had eaten.

In the middle of our meal Tony came over, I expected the customary question, his approach was quite radical:

It is difficult to ask people who know Curry inside out.

We were both thoroughly enjoying our Curry, the reply was simple:

I came for South Indian Flavours, I have them.

The Bill

£41.96 I didn’t see the itemised – Bill – but have to conclude that the Bread and Rice were included in the price of the Mains, which does make Shri Bheema’s appear competitive, i.e. in terms of Aberdeen pricing.

The Aftermath

The staff were clearing up, ready to go home after a busy day. We bade farewell.

This was the first time Marg has had Curry on xmas day, traditions have to start somewhere, sometime. Curry on this day in the 1980s was a Hector tradition in the small hours at the much missed Akash (Helensburgh).

I note that Blue Moon is now a Middle Eastern Restaurant (Kebab Shop).  This is the fifth Curry House in Aberdeen to close  in the nearly ten years of Curry-Heute. Ten Years?  I wonder where the anniversary Curry will be?

Posted in [Shri Bheema's (Bridge of Don)] | 1 Comment

Glasgow – Yadgar Kebab House – The Nights are fair drawin’ oot…

Posted on December 22, 2019 by Hector

Having assembled – Lasagne for ten – so that Marg could take it to a dinner party elsewhere, Hector was left to his own devices this Sunday afternoon. With Spag-Bol for a home alone dinner an inevitability, Hector needed a light lunch. Where better than Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP)?

Light lunch? Yadgar? Here was the perfect opperchancity to have something with Vegetables. Usually, Shkoor – Mein Host – is contacted in advance in order to have kilos of Meat Karahi underway. Occasionally, I like to turn up and see what – Daily Specials – are on offer. I was gambling that Aloo Gobi or Potatoes/Carrots/Peas would be available.

John decided he was up for this, a 14.00 rendezvous was agreed. I arrived early, no Naveed, he must have a day off sometime. It was the new chap who was behind the counter. He must be well established if he was left to run the show. I took photos of the Dishes on display, there at the back was Aloo Gobi! The Chapli Kebabs were piled up, this, hopefully, these, I had to have also.

It is always difficult to take exterior shots of the Yadgar frontage due to parked cars and a busy road. I had another go today, the new illuminated signage stood out well in the dim light of the winter afternoon. Kebab House – has been dropped, I shall have to consult over this. Meanwhile inside, both window tables were occupied, six chaps, Doner and Chips being the Order of the day. I ask you.

When John arrived he asked for the Menu, that was a first. I realise at the time of writing that the Menu has been updated since the 2017 version presently posted. The Tandoori Mix Platter (£13.50) caught John’s eye:

Will I get a sauce with that?

Ask.

Can I get a Karahi sauce?

Ask.

I doubted the latter, Karahi is prepared to order, Chef was unlikely to have some spare Masala just sitting around, but one never knows.

John was not going to miss out on the Chapli Kebabs. One Chapatti for Hector, two for Chapatti John.

I’ve cut back on my Chapattis – he informed me. We’ll see.

More Mango Rubicon completed the Order. The new chap noted everything carefully.

Names, I’m bad at getting names. The chap who has worked at Yadgar in all my years of feasting here, whom I consider to be the Sous Chef, came in. His face was masked, it wasn’t that cold outside. He acknowledged me then patted me on the back as he entered the kitchen. Chef Arshad arrived moments later. Hector’s Curry House.

The Chapli Kebabs were accompanied by the Yadgar – Hot – Chilli Sauce, as in temperature, and a Raita. This Chilli Sauce bears no resemblance to that which caused such offence in Berlin recently. A Salad arrived too, this featured some Spiced Onions.

With everything assembled, it was time to cut in to the Kebab. Spicy, well Seasoned, so tasty. I was so glad there were two, double the fun.

John was well taken with the Salad, he wondered what Herb had been added. I was not aware of any being so involved in the mixture of delights on my plate. John finished the Salad, no wastage.

There was a suitable gap before The Mains.

Tandoori Mix Platter

One assumes this was conceived to share. Over the years we have had enjoyed many of the components in this – Platter. Today was the first time it has appeared in its own right in Curry-Heute. Lamb Chops, Skewered Lamb (Shish Kebap), Tandoori Chicken, Chicken Chat (Wings) and Lamb Seekh Kebab covered the unusually large plate, a – Platter – indeed.

A Curry Sauce accompanied, from – The Big Pot – if Yadgar have such a thing. With Chapattis in hand, John tucked into his Feast. I noted his comments as he ate:

That’s the best Mixed Tandoori I’ve ever had.

The presentation was fantastic as well as the taste.

Not just the size, second to none.

John usually goes as far as – as good as I’ve had – when appraising his food. If he says this was the best, it was. I should have dipped the Sauce to see what it was. I suspect this may well have had something to do with the level of pleasure.

John left half a Chapatti. Wtf?

Aloo Gobi

I could eat this every day. I write that every time.  With pulped Cauliflower in the Masala, then finer large pieces, cooked to perfection. The Potatoes as one would expect, had absorbed so much of the Flavour from the Masala.

There was Oil collecting at the base of the plate. There’s Oil and there’s Oil. The amount was modest, tasty, no problem. Yadgar’s nearest neighbour could do well to analyse this.

The Spice Level took me aback at one point, I must have sipped some Rubicon, silly Hector. How Chef gets this amount of Flavours into a Vegetable Curry astounds every time I have this.

I will admit to struggling towards the end, amazing how Vegetables can fill to this extent. OK, the Chaplis did their bit.

Can I get you anything else? – we were asked.

We had enough, two happy chaps.

I asked for – The Bill – expecting it to be itemised for once.

The Bill

£20.00 OK, Hector gets – special rates. This was visit and Blog entry #110 for those who have lost count.

The Aftermath

There was a few moments with Chef Arshad who is always happy to see us.

Now to find Howard…the Bad Boys’ Club.

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Glasgow – Little Curry House – A Solstice Curry

Posted on December 21, 2019 by Hector

Hector was in two minds today, where in the Southside would I have my Saturday afternoon Curry? In the end, I alighted at Partick. Had the bus timings been more favourable I would have ended up at Banana Leaf, however, I walked towards Byres Rd and found myself at the Little Curry House (41 Byres Road, Glasgow, G11 5RG). Curryspondent Doug replied to my question regarding Masala Twist which has been closed for some six months. This leaves Little Curry House as the only venue actually on Byres Rd, Chaakoo Bombay Cafe have recently opened a new branch in a lane off, then there’s Ashton Lane.

I announced myself as being – one – and was shown upstairs. A couple were waiting for their Order. It was quiet mid afternoon, Hector’s preferred eating time.

The a la carte Menu was on the table with Tapas on the back. Various Deals were available until 16.00. I decided not to mess about, on seeing the Lamb Massalam with Methi Aloo (£11.00), my choice was made. I have had mixed experiences with Paratha (£2.75) on my previous two visits to this venue under this branding. The first time impressed, last time did not. It was time for The Paratha Police to investigate once more.

The Waitress took the Order, no mention of Spice Level. A Sparkling Water (£2.00) completed the Order. In the two and a half years since my last visit here, the prices have only gone up a tad.

The food was brought up to the mezzanine on a tray. The staff here must be kept fit.

The Paratha was of the – Wholemeal – variety and served quartered in a basket. Last time I specifically asked for the Paratha to be served whole and it was. I suppose it is up to the diner to insist on Bread being served whole.

The layering was there, the – swirl – visible. The Paratha flaked on further breaking. I ate more of this Paratha than I would normally manage, I found this to be a suitable accompaniment.

Lamb Massalam with Methi Aloo

Aloo Gosht with Methi in other words. The Masala was Minimal, it had not been blended, this looked like a worthy Karahi Gosht. On appearance, this was the closest to Desi Cuisine I have been served at Little Curry House. Expectation levels were being raised, however, the portion size did not overwhelm, especially when I decided there was as much Potato as Lamb.

The Meat was so – soft – a delight. The Spice Level was not challenging, extra Chillies would have given a bigger – kick. The Seasoning was – low – but after my midweek experience at Basharat G’z, any Curry would seem so. I alternated between Meat then Paratha with the Masala Mash. I gave the thumbs up when the Waitress came up to ask the customary question. Fenugreek Potatoes – was this the source of the Methi?  This Curry had not just been thrown together from – The Big Pot.

The pieces of Meat were large, had I ordered Rice, then each would have been halved. What did not feel like a large portion initially, was proving to be substantial. I had to remind myself that this was not the half kilo. A half kilo? I could have devoured that today. The Flavours kept coming, the Masala Mash at the base of the karahi was carefully scooped up. I was really enjoying this.

I was surprised to find a bone, this definitely took this Curry well away from the – Mainstream. This truly was a Desi Curry, it just became better and better the more I ate. This was easily the best Curry I have eaten on these premises since the days of Mrs. Majhu’s.

I think I’ll have to come back soon, another project.

The Bill

£15.75 Well within acceptable parameters.

The Aftermath

I squeezed past more diners as I took my leave. I had not recognised any of the staff front of house or in the open kitchen. I assume Little Curry House is still operated by the Singh family, some of whom I met back in 2015?

Menu extracts

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Glasgow – Basharat G’z – Under control…

Posted on December 18, 2019 by Hector

Mark is up from Wales for a few days, he required Curry. Howard and John would join us at Basharat G’z (223-225 Allison Street, Glasgow, G42 8RU) for the 16.00 rendezvous. This would be Howard’s first visit, however, he did have the honour of being the first to visit this venue in the summer when it was briefly Al Anwar.

It is a few days to the solstice, darkness had already fallen, the dining room was comfortably warm. Abbas was there to greet, Basharat himself entered having been summoned to cook.

We were all having the half kilo of Lamb Karahi (£12.00). Only John would have – boneless – the rest of us would have the more authentic – on-the-bone – Karahi. Howard and Mark followed my lead to order a Chilli and Coriander Naan (£3.00). Chapatti John would order four: two Tawa Chapattis (£0.70) and two Garlic Chapattis (£1.00). He did say he would not eat them all here, he had plans for the surplus later. Surplus? That’ll be a first.

A young chap brought a jug of water, glasses and a full plate of Salad. After the Salads presented in Berlin last week, it was good to get back to the traditional, not that I had any.

They did their best to bring everything at once on a tray. Three Chapattis arrived later.

John was more than happy with his Bread order.

… and the breads were fantastic – he would add to his few words about the Karahi. Normally, Hector has a Chapatti with a Lamb Karahi, but not here, the bespoke Naan has been perfected.

The Naans today were the best yet. Served whole, which for me is so important, the sliced Green Chillies had been rolled in, the Coriander leaves sat atop. Once again, the centre of the Naan had been perforated to stop it rising – Rogni-style. Today the edges were seriously puffy and well fired. This was the best of both Worlds. None of us would finish our Naans such were the size.

Lamb Karahi

The Masala was possibly even Darker than seen previously. Oil has been an issue on most visits, a Karahi without Oil will not work. Too much is unhealthy. The Oil separating is the sign in cooking that a Masala is – ready. Today, the Oil in the three on-the-bone Karahis was less than before, however, John’s – boneless – did have a bit of a slick when he stopped eating.

Dipping Bread in the Oil is the customary way for Hector to start, here lies so much Flavour, today excellent, intriguing. The Seasoning registered immediately, some would have found this excessive, or – challenging – in workplace parlance. I love a well seasoned Curry, today I most certainly had one. The Spice Level was enhanced by the extra Chillies in the Naan, what a wonderful combination this is, who thought it up?

Basharat was soon out of the kitchen to check that all was well. He was given the thumbs up, then asked about the Oil.

Under control – was my measured response.

Ribs and larger bones were present. As is the case with a Karahi served this – hot – one had to be patient before the Meat could be tackled. Tender, lovely, with Flavours from the Lamb offering so much more than anything I found last week in Berlin where, in the classic – Mainstream Curry House Scenario – I felt the Meat and Masala were strangers. Not today, this Karahi was a master-class.

John noted the various – sounds of pleasure – around the table. Abbas came out to take our photo. We were all trying to work out what the background Flavour was. Cinnamon – was my offering. Howard suggested – Lime Pickle – which was interesting, because around the corner at New Gandhi, they blend in Lime Pickle so the Flavour is present without the rind. John offered – Black Cardamom – having encountered them here on a previous visit. Maybe some of the Palak on display found its way in?

Whatever, this Lamb Karahi was a joy to eat, though later Mark would refer to the Torrey Canyon when describing his Curry today. In the Restaurant he was more circumspect:

I see what you mean about the oil – said Mark.

And that’s it under control – added Howard.

Mark continued:

Good after burn in the back of the throat, pretty good.

As always, Howard added more than a few words:

Expectations were high following reviews on a well known Curry website (what happened to – reliable?). Suffice to say, I wasn’t disappointed. A distinct darkness and earthiness to the Curry, accentuated by the Naan. The spice level and seasoning were perfect for me. Another excellent Southside Curry.

John was miffed:

Howard stole my deep, rich and dark flavours.

Four boys came and sat at the next table. They were at the age where they are responsible but choose not to be. Abbas checked them for their over-loud and unnecessary vocabulary. They departed, then returned, becoming six, then eight. I am told they shared two bags of Chips. John had them in hand, nobody messes with John.

It is a feature of this area that groups of children, youths and adults do hang around street corners. Let’s hope it never kicks off, businesses would suffer.

The Bill

£60.40 We had been fed.

The Aftermath

Once again, I took photos of the prepared Curry on display. Saag/Palak sat beside a Dessert Rice then trays of Chicken also Lamb Curry. Beneath lay the excellent Aloo Gobi. Abbas asked for my verdict. I told him that I describe Chefs who serve a Curry this well Seasoned as – Brave.

Today’s was – Brave-plus!

Earlier, I noted that Masala Twist (Byres Rd.) has gone. Does anyone have information on this?

Posted in [Basharat G'z] | 1 Comment

Oranienburg – MIRA Indisches Restaurant – This was NOT Curry

Posted on December 11, 2019 by Hector

With Jonathan and Steve back in Blighty, Hector Naypals had a day of reflection. There was a late afternoon trip to Oranienburg, a city in the north of Berlin’s hinterland and the site of Sachsenhausen Gedenkstätte, one of the first concentration camps. Such was the traffic congestion thereafter, it would have been quicker walking back to MIRA Indisches Restaurant (Bötzower Platz 15, Oranienburg, Brandenburg, Deutschland), Oranienburg’s only Curry House.

Arriving at 16.45, there was a group of ladies dining in the main room. I was invited to sit in the side room where a couple had just ordered. As a result, there is no proper photo coverage of what was a well laid out and interesting venue.

This meal would be breakfast, lunch and dinner. Having had Lamb in the past two days, it was time to try a Fish Curry. Fisch Jahlferezi (€10.50) was listed as – sehr scharf – quite a claim for a Mainland Europe Curry House. Rotbarschfilet was translated as Coal Fish which in turn I find translated as  Saithe in Scots. Tomatensoße was somehow lost, wot, no Tomatoes in English? As always, I would ask for the Paprika to be withheld.

The waitress pointed out that the Curry would be – Scharf. Rice would be inclusive as would Salad, no Capsicum would appear. Hector had high hopes. I asked for a large bottle of Sparkling Water, a 0.4l glass (€3.20) arrived.

Two Poppadoms were presented, one well fired the other not. The standard three Euro Dips accompanied. The Mint was checked then left, the Tamarind and Raita would suffice. Having had nothing to eat prior to this, I had considered ordering a Starter. When the Salad came I was glad I hadn’t.

As has been a feature of this week in Berlin, the Salad was very – German. The red strips were pickled Capsicum, quite tasty actually. I thought it better to leave them to avoid any unwelcome after-taste. Cabbage in a dressing, Sweetcorn, Carrot, Tomato and Cucumber were also present, quite a spectacular array.

The Curry arrived before I had finished the nibbles, one Poppadom was abandoned. The Rice was twice as much as a Hector could eat, two full platefuls. I couldn’t help but think of those who had starved to death in this city some eighty years back. A waste of Rice.

The karahi was placed on a heater, what a mountain of Curry, or was it? The aroma was powerful, oh no. I wasn’t going to enjoy this. On Monday at Dezi Indishes Restaurant Berlin, the Red Chilli Sauce which smothered Jonathan’s Namaste Mixed Tikka was not well received. Having purchased bottles of differing brands over the years, they have all ended up in the bin.  One word describes this style of sauce – horrible!   So what was this Sauce doing here? I cannot use the term – Masala – because I do not believe that this Red Sauce qualifies.  IMHO, this Jalfrezi wasn’t – Curry.

Was this how it came out of the jar, or was the nasty Red Food Dye added? The sauce had no depth of Flavour, maybe just Chilli and Red Food Dye. It was as Spicy as promised, not a problem, however, eating this would be monotonous. White specks were mixed through the Sauce, Garlic probably, no Flavour from this was registered.

The solids were aplenty. The Cauliflower retained the firmness I like. Any Flavour from the Ginger Strips was masked by the Sickly Chilli Sauce. When I tackled the Fish I was surprised at the strength of Flavour emanating from it. In a proper Masala, this Fish would have greatly enhanced the Overall Flavour, but not today. The palate was simply swamped by the Red Chilli Sauce. To make matters worse, the Fish was rubbery.

I had to do something. I mixed the remaining Tamarind into the Sauce, a slight improvement. Then I added the Raita, thinking even a Creamy Curry would have been more acceptable. Finally, the last resort, I mixed some of the Cabbage through the Sauce in the hope that the Dressing would create the – Achari effect. It didn’t.

I was glad when I had eaten enough to stop.

I got up to find someone to pay and was offered Mango Liqueur.

The Bill

€13.70 (£11.54) A lot of food for one’s money.

The Aftermath

I gave the Calling Card to the waitress. All the staff I had seen were European, were there any Asians in the house? I was hoping to talk to the person who had created this – Curry. Not to be.

On the train back to Berlin I noted that the after-taste was grim, worse than the – Capsicum effect. My final note was made – This ‘Curry’ was awful.

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