Halifax – Sheesh Mahal – By Invitation – Happy Yorkshire Day!

Since the  earliest days of Curry-Heute, Hector has been making regular visits to Bradford’s most excellent Curry House – Sheesh Mahal (6 St. Thomas’ Rd, Bradford, BD1 2RW). When the sister branch was opened in HalifaxSheesh Mahal (250 King Cross Rd, Halifax HX1 3JP ) – it was a matter of when, and not if, Hector would write the first Curry-Heute review. In the middle of May, Shrax, brother of Taj and Sadaqat who have looked after Hector and co. so well in Bradford, invited me to visit. With no imminent plans to visit Yorkshire, November looked like the first opperchancity. Can you not come sooner? – was the enthusiastic plea. By tagging a few days in Bradford on to the Annnafest Trip and staying with – The Rickmeister – a visit today became possible. Phew!

Sheesh Mahal (#2) is located on the western extremity of Halifax, at the very top of the hill which leads down to Sowerby Bridge. So not in the centre of town then, and with a late afternoon opening, continuing the tradition of no lunchtime Curry in Halifax. This town would have had  much greater coverage in Curry-Heute if lunchtime Curry was possible.  Even Sarina’s no longer opens until late afternoon.

Hector and Ricky arrived at 17.00 after a couple of hours spent at nearby Sowerby Bridge. A very familiar face greeted us on entry – Omar! – son of Taj. Hector had not seen Omar for quite some time, Amar, son of Shrax, has been managing the mother shop for the last year or so. This is beginning to read like an Icelandic Saga. Shrax, Mein Host, was introduced just as he was leaving. The man behind the scenes, Shrax does the – hard work.

As guests, we were invited to choose whatever we desired. I had already suggested to Ricky that we have the House Special Karahi – Lamb on the Bone (£23.95 for the kilo). Having seen many a photo of the – Flame Grill – featured on a Social Medium, there had to be a representative Starter. Ricky spotted the Mix Grill Platter (£10.95) for two. This featured – Fish – which pleased the Hector, Omar promised to add some more Fish such was the enthusiasm expressed here.
It was time to tour the premises. Ricky was already impressed by the layout and the décor. This far exceeds the mother shop which itself is unrecognisable, compared with the early years of the Sheesh Mahal.

The open area near the entrance, with individual tables, gives way to booths along the far left wall. All permutations of numbers can be catered for, in comfort.

The artwork on the walls features contemporary versions of palaces from the Indian subcontinent. How far we have come from the 1960s – flock wallpaper?

Omar brought Poppadoms and four Dips. Ricky poured some Raita from a bottle over the Salad, both of which had magically appeared.

 

This was a good way to kick things off. Ricky remarked that the Lime Pickle for once was not too overpowering. The number of times Hector has killed the palate by overdosing on Lime Pickle.

The kitchen had to be investigated, firstly to see how it was organised, and hopefully to pick up some cookery tips. The Grill Chef was already busy working on our Mix Grill Platter. It was the Bread Chef who showed me the – Big Pot – in which the Lamb was being cooked in Spice and its own juices. This would be the base of all the Lamb Curry for the next couple of days. Omar would later tell us that we had timed our visit well to see the Lamb at this stage.

Omar brought the Mix Grill Platter plus another platter with Tiger Prawns (£4.95), yay! It appears the World is determined to have Hector eat Prawns.

Mix Grill Platter
A mixture of our mouth-watering selection of seekh kebab, lamb chops, chicken wings, fish tikka & chicken boti – says the Menu.
Chicken Boti is grilled, marinaded, boneless Chicken as opposed to Tandoori Chicken. This was a Succulent start to the Feast. The Chicken Wings were less Spicy, the Meat here fell off the bone, finger lickin’ good. Next up was the Fish Tikka which turned out ironically to be the poorest part of this selection. The Fish was firm, and showed no sign of flaking. We both agreed that the Fish was too dry. I don’t know what happened here. Both Chicken Seekh Kebab and Lamb Seekh Kebab had been provided. Ricky remarked that he had not come across the Chicken version until the last few years. Cheaper – was my take, and nowhere near as satisfying as the Lamb Seekh Kebab which was truly outstanding – Spicy, very well Seasoned and – Moist. This effectively highlighted that the Chicken was – drier – than the Lamb. Lamb Seekh Kebab…Mmmm. The Onions on the base of the platter had been cremated in places, still white in others, a fine array to scrape off and enjoy. Then it was time to indulge in the highlight of this platter the – Lamb Chops. One each, I could have eaten these all day. The Lamb Chops were very flat, thin, and cooked through. This was a special moment.

Tiger Prawns
As discovered for the first time last month at il Nababbo (Sassari, Sardinia), when Prawns are properly marinaded, they take on a new dimension. Prawns added to a Masala and served as Prawn Curry still does not impress the Hector. Needless to say, today’s Tiger Prawns were worthy of presentation. Again served on a platter with Onions, the Prawns were a treat. So full of Flavour, Juicy, I kept one back to the end. Yes, this concluded the Starters for Hector and even followed the Lamb Chop. I always keep the best to the end.

We agreed at the start that we would need sufficient time to digest the Starters in order to do the Lamb Karahi justice. Omar suggested we go across the road to – The Feathers – for an hour and then come back for the main course. We decided to stay and sit it out, another carafe of Water was provided. The Rickmeister and Hector being abstemious? Not in terms of our food consumption, but we both knew that Ale on top of Curry, then Curry on top of Ale, could be stretching even our capacity to over-indulge. Anyway, Ricky was loving the experience of being here – to dine. We have been loyal to the Sheesh Mahal (Bradford) for so many years, let us show our appreciation and not abuse the hospitality. Our conversation with Omar was ongoing. We agreed that I would be summoned back to the kitchen at a suitable moment to see the Karahi Gosht being prepared, all part of Hector’s education and more importantly for today, another photo opperchancity. At some point in all of today’s proceedings, Ricky came out with quite a humble statement regarding – CG – as he calls Hector:
Nobody knows more about Curry than CG.
Quite untrue of course, but has any individual written more Curry reviews? Praise and recognition from – The Rickmeister? This will go no further. Ricky was having the time of his life, Curry-wise.
That were excellent, whatever comes next …. – it’s rare for The Rickmeister to be so exuberant, unless he is talking about lesser football teams.

It was another Chef who was in charge of preparing the Lamb Karahi. Two pans were bubbling away, on the left was a previous order. There were other people here already? Ours was on the right. I watched as Spices were added to the Lamb from the – Big Pot. I studied the array of Herbs and Spices, Methi was there, however, the – something ground and green – had to be identified.
Za’atar? – I asked Omar.
Ground Dried Chillies.
This I shall have to look for, I pointed to the Salt:
The most important ingredient in any Curry.
As the flames engulfed the pan, I added:
If I cooked like that at home, Marg would have something to say.

The aromas enhanced the anticipation, yet I still didn’t find out how Chef went from pre-cooked Lamb to Karahi Gosht. Exactly what was added, and how much, remains his secret.
As I left the kitchen, so Omar enquired about the Accompaniments.
We had better consult.
I had already decided upon a Plain Paratha (£1.50). Note, one Chapatti was £0.45, which is a departure from the Bradford norm of three Chapatti/Roti included with every Curry. Ricky had already established with Omar that he would never, ever, be charged for Bread at the Halifax branch. Haggle. Whilst Ricky announced – Naan (£1.50) – he could not help telling Omar about the price of Bread in Scottish Curry Houses, Aberdeen‘s in particular.
It’s Flour and Water – I said to Omar – how can they charge £2.50 for a single Chapatti, and even more ridiculous prices for Naan/Paratha, stuffed, or otherwise?
The moment came, the Bread, the Lamb Karahi, and a Daal. Omar reads Curry-Heute, he knows my preference for not eating just Meat and Masala, an Interesting Vegetable adds so much more to the eating experience.

Lamb Karahi
Topped with minimal Ginger Strips and Fresh Coriander, the Lamb Karahi was presented on a – flattish – metal dish which was somewhere between a tawa and a karahi. This was – Bradford Dry. There was no Oil collecting in the periphery as is accepted. This was Meat, shrouded in Masala. I had seen the Masala being reduced, courage mon brave.
Daal
Chana Daal (£5.95) I can find on the Menu with the aid of hindsight. I took this to be – Lentils, maybe not then. Delightfully – Thick – and a perfect accompaniment. Ricky was already tearing into the Meat, I took my time to arrange Lamb and Daal on the Hector plate.

The Breads

The Breads were massive, not as silly as at Omar’s (Bradford), a manageable size which could retain the appeal and texture of both Breads. The Naan was presumably covered in Garlic Butter, I didn’t sample it, I had my own selection to amuse me. Thin, with bubbly burnt bits, I would have been happy to have received this. Where it went remains a mystery, Ricky is not Chapatti John. How could Ricky eat so much Bread in such a short period of time? Ricky’s attention then became focused on the Paratha.
Paratha

Ricky made Omar aware that he has only recently become aware of Paratha, these are not generally a feature of Bradford Curry Houses. Hector served Ricky a Plain Paratha, home cooked, at Hector’s House a few weeks back. He were well impressed. Now Ricky is buying frozen ones for home consumption.
Having learned to cook my own Paratha, Hector is becoming the – Paratha Police. Too many venues pass off Roti as Paratha. Worse, they buy them in frozen and serve them as their own. The Hector Paratha Standard is: served – Whole,  – Light, as in cooked with White Chapatti Flour. Layered, Flaky and the – Swirl. That’s just the appearance. Internally there has to be proof that Butter/Ghee has been applied before folding. This Paratha ticked every box, it was light in colour and texture. The – flakiness – was evident, the – butteriness – a joy. This was a magnificent Paratha, such that Ricky probably managed to eat as much of it as I did. The enhanced size therefore suited us both.

A kilo of Lamb Karahi on-the-bone. Ricky often challenges the logic of paying for bones. Hector often asks the same question. Having had the Starters, two of us could never have finished a kilo of boneless Lamb Karahi. What lay before us was manageable, therefore ideal.

The Lamb was not – Bradford-small. We were not in Bradford. Tender, of course, some pieces required more chewing which forced the Flavours out. The Spice was never a challenge, it shouldn’t be. This was all about the Flavours, and thanks to setting the Seasoning at a decent level, all were revealed. Sucky Bones – the best cuts. Our first helpings cleared more than half, the top-up left enough to be magnanimous. I let Ricky have the last pieces, why? The Daal was – Stunning!

Chana (?) Daal and Lamb Karahi
The sultry – dryness – had me hooked. The Bradford Curry Taste – was more evident here than in the Lamb Karahi. I kept going back for more. Ricky took care of the Meat, I did my best, a Soupçon of Daal had to be abandoned.

Not taking advantage of the hospitality, and not wasting food were the primary objectives… there were three primary objectives…

A young waiter came to clear the table. Our progress had been monitored by all staff present.
Same again – I jested. I could hear Scots in his voice, still, over his head.

There’s more…

Omar brought two plates of Ras Malai (£2.95). Ricky was beside himself. It took a Glasgow Curry Blogger (John!) to allow – The Man from Bradford – to savour the day.

Ricky, I need more than a – that were a’right – for this write up.
Eeeh – followed by another – Eeeh.

Omar was present as Ricky gave his verdict:
I’m quite impressed by the Paratha which we don’t get at home.
The food was absolutely superb, but I’m used to that at the Sheesh (Bradford).
Ricky did question the location of the Halifax branch, not quite in Halifax, not walk-able from Sowerby Bridge.
The presentation was better than Bradford.
That has exceeded expectations, and my expectations were high.
The décor and ambience are top notch.

Hector’s verdict?:
That were a’right.

It was two hours since we had entered. We had dined, in style.
Shrax, Omar, – thank you – sounds insufficient. However, Hector is happy to visit any Curry House, by invitation. Be prepared for the truth.

The Bill
Having enjoyed the complimentary meal, The Rickmeister remarked:

We didn’t get the 10% CAMRA discount!

 The Aftermath
Having declined many of Omar’s offers, he was determined that the hospitality would continue. He took us across the street to – The Feathers – and introduced us to the Landlord.
On our tab.
Ricky supped Ale, for Hector there is only one drink which follows Curry presently…

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Manchester – Kabana – The Lone Diner

If there ever was such a thing as a – flying visit – then today was it. A night in Manchester and a train back to Scotland was the original plan.  However, as shall be written forthwith, there is about to be a slight detour. Apparently it had been raining heavily in the north of Englandshire today, particularly around the Manchester Airport area. No trains to Sheffield, Piccadilly would do.

Checking in to the Ancoats Travelodge @17.00 I was faced with choices. Wait for the rain to go off and eat later, or catch the remains of the day at Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1LQ England). The stomach solved the dilemma, Kabana it was.

I do not recall eating here at any time other than lunchtime or early afternoon at the latest. The place was deserted, the last three customers finishing. There was no sign of Rizwan, his #2 recognised me and took the Order. Karahi Lamb (£5.00) and Rice (£1.50). I didn’t specify on-the-bone, I was not convinced they would have any left this late in the shift.

Taking my seat, I heard footsteps coming down the stairs behind me.

Hector!

Rizwan! – I replied with my back to Mein Host.

You’re the last person I expected to see today.

Rizwan does follow me on a certain Social Medium, he knows all the places I get to. Pleasantries were exchanged, Rizwan went off to sort the Curry. Moments later he produced the veritable plateful covered in – Foliage.

Karahi Lamb

Compare this to the – Garnish – that has accompanied my Curry in the last month. Kabana have set a standard that nowhere else comes close to. A Forest of Coriander, sliced Green Chillies and micro cubes of Ginger. The Karahi Lamb was on-the-bone, there was a mass of Meat here. This made my Fish Curry at Bella Tandoori yesterday in Bamberg seem all the more pathetic. The Masala had already been absorbed into the copious Rice. Hungry as I was, this would still be a test.

When I started visiting Kabana, the Karahi Lamb was – Good, in recent years it has evolved into – Spectacular. The fullness of Flavour is down to the level of Seasoning which for me is spot on. The Spice Level is also well pitched, enough, no need to go crazy. The extra Chillies add – the necessary -, if indeed one considers a bigger – kick – to be so.

Customers arrived just after 17.30, Rizwan told them they stop serving at that time. The shutters were lowered, the remaining staff departed, this was – The Hector and Rizwan Show.

Other venues, as far as Aberdeen were discussed. I had to congratulate Rizwan on the Quality of his Lamb. For the last couple of years it has been outstanding, a change of butcher. Rizwan admitted that he is at the mercy of his suppliers, he cannot tell what he has been sold until he cooks it. Lamb, Mutton, a big difference. Rizwan assured me that – Shoulder Lamb – is the optimum cut. So why do we, the public, get encouraged to buy legs?

The Curry lived up to expectation, the Quantity of Rice beat me. In the end I had to leave a couple of spoonfuls. Waste, but not excessive.

The Bill

£6.50  Again, compare this with yesterday at Bella Tandoori, and I got to sit inside.

The Aftermath

There was time for – Farewells – this time it was very much a case of – Aufwiedersehen.

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Bamberg – Bella Tandoori – One of Two new Curry Houses

For years, the only source of Curry in Bamberg was Swarg (Frauenstraße 2, 96047 Bamberg, Deutschland). This venue I slated, avoided, then began visiting when somehow instinct took me back. A change of owners meant a radical improvement. Cafe Zafran (Brennerstraße 42, 96052 Bamberg, Deutschland) opened in 2015 but is literally on the wrong side of the tracks. I was therefore surprised to find two new venues since my last visit to Bamberg.

Bistro Ravi (Fischstraße 2, 96047 Bamberg Deutschland) is very close to Swarg. Google Maps have it classified as a Takeaway, however, their photos show plated meals. Yesterday morning I went to investigate.

Arriving before opening time, I was taking photos of the exterior and most importantly, the Menu. The lack of Lamb Curry was my first observation. Surely the choices cannot just be Vegetables or Chicken? A door opened, a chap appeared, I had to ask:

Do you not have Lamb?

Lamb Donner – was the reply as he opened the hatch from which they presumably serve Takeaways. I couldn’t see inside, but the tables out front do confirm that one can eat here. Perhaps one day I’ll drop by for an Aloo Gobi (€8.00). Bistro Ravi is closed on Sundays.

Bella Tandoori (Schützenstraße 14, 96047 Bamberg Deutschland) is very close to the Ibis but not in a street one would normally walk down. I would never have found this place by chance, but locate it I did, and yesterday being Monday, it was closed.

Today Hector was back for a lunchtime Curry at 12.30. Walking in to the restaurant the conversation with Mein Host went as follows:

Hello.

One.

Sorry.

Just one.

Outside.

Can I not sit inside?

Outside.

Why?

It’s too hot.

It was only 26ºC as measured in the shade, outside surely had to be warmer.

I walked through the long corridor to the garden at the rear where six diners sat at three tables. They would be replaced by another six, but not soon enough for my liking. One diner had one of those loud voices which he evidently thought was worthy of all the assembled being forced to hear. It’s just as well I understood little of what he was saying.

Irritable, moi?

Mein Host brought the Menu which I couldn’t photograph due to reflections. Fortunately I had recorded the main parts yesterday.

I had Fisch Curry (€12.50) in mind, then at the last minute changed it to Fisch Mix Curry (€14.50) without paying too much attention to the description of the latter. I was hoping for Sabji. Today I tried – Ohne Paprika. A 400ml glass of Sparkling Water (€2.80) would accompany.

I was sat next to a door which led to the living quarters. Mein Host went in at one point, the language spoken intrigued. Bella Tandoori clearly serves Italian and Indian Fayre, not that I looked at the former. Did I hear Russian, or similar?

A Poppadom and three Dips were brought.

Poppadom – said Mein Host as he placed them on the table. For a change I decided to eat the Poppadom, it had the embedded Cumin Seeds, always tasty in their own right.

The red Dip was not as Spicy as anticipated, but not too Sweet. The Mango sauce, it was too thin to be a Chutney, worked very well with the red Dip.

Why are we expected to pay for Poppadoms in the UK?

Mein Host brought the Mains. The Rice was a perfectly judged portion, there would be no wastage.

Fisch Mix Curry

Yes, Hector ordered this, it gets worse.

Here was a classic example of everything that is wrong with Curry, especially in Mainland Europe. Compare this with the wonder that was the Fisch Chettinad as eaten at Indian Mango (München) five days ago. I wouldn’t insult – Shorva – by using the term here, this was just – Soup. This was the thinnest of sauces, with three strips of Tomato and Ginger as a Garnish. I’ll let the reader count the Coriander leaves, there weren’t enough to make an impact.

Swimming in the Soup were Fish and Prawns. Yes, Hector had ordered a Curry with Prawns, Jeenga.  I had dismissed – Jeenga – which was not mentioned in this Curry description.  However – Garnelen – I did not know are – Shrimps.  Four small pieces of Fish and four Prawns, what was I paying for here? The size of this portion was insulting. Time to eat.

The first piece of Fish was a – Wow! – moment. The Flavour from the Salmon was intense. A plateful of this would have been more than acceptable, I had three more bits left. I have written before that I do not think Prawns belong in Curry. Their natural Sweetness is not what I seek. I did learn a lesson at il Nababbo (Sassari, Sardegna) where the Chef had managed to impregnate his Prawns with an incredible amount of Flavour. The Prawns at Bella Tandoori had just been chucked in, nothing special here then.

So what of the Sauce? Finely chopped Garlic was visible and the occasional bit of finely chopped Onion was also spotted. The sauce was simply too Thin, lacked body, many more Onions were required. The Spice built as I ate, when I returned to the remaining Fish, so the pleasure centres were rewarded. Poor as this Curry was, it was still better than the alternative – Deutsche Essen.

Mein Host asked the customary question in passing.

It’s OK.

Indeed, it was – OK – I simply needed more solids.

The Bill

17.30 (£15.87) Sterling continues to devalue…

The Aftermath

Having paid, I took time to finish my drink. Mein Host was not about as I departed.

Menu extracts

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Forchheim – MahaRaja – Montag Ruhetag

Hector is resident in Bamberg for three days, the Annafest in nearby Forchheim being the primary attraction, not that there isn’t already enough Bier being poured every day in Frankonia. Erlangen for Curry – was the plan for today, however, two new Curry venues have opened in Bamberg since my last visit in November, plus one in the centre of Forchheim. These had to be located, Bella Tandoori was closed, Ravi Bistro did not entice, tomorrow will be – Curry in Bamberg day.

Forchheim has had Haveli (Kirchenstraße 2, 91301 Forchheim Deutschland) for five years, but this venue is out of town and well away from the usual places visited. The appearance of MahaRaja (Paradepl. 18, 91301 Forchheim Deutschland) took me by surprise, and was worthy of investigation, since today I was Forchheim bound anyway.

Montag Ruhetag, the most common day for restaurants to be closed in Deutschland. Whilst I stood outside, taking the photos of the menu, the door opened. A chap studied me then spoke to someone inside. A charming lady came to the door and confirmed they were closed. Hector will have to wait another year at least for a Forchheim Curry. The original plan was resurrected, there is always Curry in Erlangen.

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Erlangen – Chai Roti – Aromatische Curry

Last November whilst dining at Sangam (Martinsbühler Str. 1, 91054 Erlangen Deutschland) I could not help notice the banner advertising the imminent opening of Chai Roti (Goethestraße 26, 91054 Erlangen Deutschland). The impression given was that it would sell – Street Food – or snacks. Having abandoned Forchheim, it was back on the train to Erlangen which now has eight Curry sources. I could have a snack at Chai Roti then cross the road for – the most Seasoned Curry on the planet – at the Curry House. That Chai Roti had a full menu was unexpected.

Laila-Manju (€14.90) was a new name, then I read on to find this was a Kebab served with a Naan. The Fish options were few, it was back to the old faithful – Lamm Bhuna – (€13.50) which would be served with Rice and a Salad. A 0.4l glass of Sparkling Water (€2.50) would accompany.

An exceptionally beautiful lady with child sat on my right, a Scarlett Johansson clone sat diagonally to my left, I studied the décor with more vigour. Chai Roti operates in a setting which clearly has been a restaurant for some time. I could see the kitchen in the distance, the dining area being divided into three. This was a remarkably busy restaurant for a Monday lunchtime. It could be a case that with so many venues closed on a Monday, options were few. In terms of Curry, even fewer.

Keine Paprika – was my request.

Ohne Paprika – was the reply.

Lamm Bhuna

The Curry sat on a plate which had a huge portion of Rice and the promised Salad, not the customary – Side Salad – then. It felt sensible to decant the Curry to the available space rather than cover the Rice.

The Masala was definitely – Thick, initially I could accept this as a Bhuna. The Creaminess, however, forced me to think otherwise. Almonds were visible, a Kashmiri? I  wondered how this came to be called a Bhuna. Their interpretation, this was very much a Marg Curry.

Cloves were the most apparent source of Flavour at the start, then I found a Green Cardamom, the hard way. The Spice built slowly from nothing registering at all, to me noting that this Curry did have – a wee kick.

The Meat count was well into double figures, the pieces were large, so I felt this was value for money. The Lamb was well cooked, suitably Tender.

There was the matter of  when to address the Salad, being right there on the plate, I decided to mix it with the Masala. Hey presto, a Diversity of Textures was created.  This worked better than I anticipated.

As far as Mainstream Curry goes, this was not bad at all. The Creaminess turned out to be a change from what I would normally order. There was a definite – Aromatic – set of Flavours present. I’ll admit to enjoying this Curry, but still have to ask – in what way was this a Bhuna? But then, I couldn’t see what was being served to the others.

The Bill

16.00 (£14.55)  Every day my Curry is becoming more expensive.

The Aftermath

As I did the usual introduction, I showed the main chap my review of Sangam. He asked how I found my Curry.

Aromatische!

And so back to Forchheim, there was a Bierfest to attend.

Menu extracts

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München – Indian Mango – The Last Lamm Chettinad?

Indian Mango (Zweibrückenstraße 15, 80331, München, Deutschland) opens at noon on a Sunday. Today’s train to Bamberg was chosen to allow a lunchtime Curry. After yesterday’s sublime Fisch Chettinad (€13.90), there had to be a Lamm Chettinad (€15.00).

Herr Battra, the Manager, was sitting outside having a coffee as I arrived a few minutes before noon. The Restaurant was wide open, to allow the air to circulate. He followed me in. Should I give Clive and Maggie more time? Unbeknown to me, they were sitting in the coffee shop at Isartor S-Bahnhof, I had passed them. My Order was placed before they walked in to Indian Mango at 12.02. The Order was increased, Lamm Chettinad for three, two Spicy, one not so. Two 500ml bottles of Still Water (€3.50) and a 400ml glass of Sparkling Water completed the Order.

Mein host, Mr. Jolly Kunjappu, said he would be here this lunchtime. True to his word, he arrived a few moments later.

Your train is at 14.00 – he remembered. Then he hit us with the shocking news. On September 3rd, the entire building will be up for auction. Mr. Jolly is confident that his business will continue, but nothing is guaranteed. Having seen the ongoing redevelopment in this city anything is possible. Andechs am Dom had to move across their square a year or so back. Worse, in 1996-7, The Mathäser Bierstadt, the World’s largest Bierhalle at that time, closed without warning. For twenty years, around a dozen visits, Hector had been happy to bounce between the Mathäser and the Hofbräuhaus. The closure of the Mathäser forced me to go exploring and find the many new venues that are covered in Bier-Traveller.com. Only yesterday I explained why there are relatively few München Curry Houses covered in Curry-Heute. Why would you go anywhere else when Indian Mango is so wonderful? Note, this argument only applies to a venue abroad where due to time restrictions, one has to operate within the limits imposed. Curry-Heute’s – prime objective – remains – exploration.

Mr. Jolly informed us that the building is estimated to be worth @€17.5 million.

Why don’t you buy it? – asked Maggie.

I have the €17 million – he replied – it’s the extra half million.

If the building is lost, then so too will Indian Mango. Mr. Jolly does not feel he can relocate and start again. His book on Philosophy is being published in Deutsch in four weeks, and in English thereafter. Mr. Jolly will be busy promoting this.

Everything happens for a reason – was his take on the immediate future.

There would be no reason to come to München – Maggie proposed. I knew this was half in jest, but I am inclined to agree. Indian Mango has become the main attraction in any visit.

*

*

*

Herr Battra brought the food, once again, the Rice portion was ample, sensible.

Lamm Chettinad

I do not recall eating a Curry with the thought foremost in my mind, that this could be for the last time. If ever a Curry was going to be savoured, it was this one.

The Richness of the Masala was evident through its darkness and the thickness. This was the very definition of a – Dry Curry. The Ginger and Tomato Strips were once again present, with a hint of Fresh Coriander. I would pull out a Bay Leaf, who knows what other Herbs were in there?

We asked for – Spicy, it came – Spicy. The Seasoning was down compared to yesterday’s Fisch Chettinad. One would expect a Fish Curry to naturally have more Seasoning, it never fails to astonish how often that is not the case.

The Spice kept building on the palate, the Smokiness was to the fore, the Flavour I recorded as – sharp – whatever that means. There was a sense of – grittiness – but nothing like the way it was say a decade ago. The Meat was – Meaty. Well, yesterday I let Maggie away with describing the Fisch Chettinad as – Fishy. I know this Curry is as much a – Stir Fry – as a bona fide Curry, yet everything tasted as if it belonged, it had been in the right place for some time. What else could be in the Masala? Tomato Seeds were very visible, the ratio of Tomato to Onion must be unique.

I ate every morsel, every grain of Rice. I asked Maggie to explain why she had left some Masala at the bottom of her bowl.

I’ve finished all the relevant bits – was her justification. Maggie continued:

The portion was so huge, I don’t have room.

Once again I have to comment favourably on the Quantity of Meat, a while back it was becoming less than satisfactory.

Clive:

Much better than cornflakes for breakfast.

This time it was Mr. Jolly who offered us the – Mango Cream. He returned a few moments later to say it would be freshly made. For a change, Nuts were the Topping. Something different. Hector can never get enough Nuts.

The Bill

55.00 (£49.11) What would I be willing to pay for this a year from now?

The Aftermath

There had to be photos, just in case this was – Farewell – and not – Aufwiedersehen. I even gave a Calling Card.

Life is short, nothing can be taken for granted. Don’t put anything off. I very much hope that this is not a case of:

So long and thanks for the Fish.

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München – Indian Mango – Fisch Chettinad

If there’s a better Fish Curry than that served at Indian Mango (Zweibrückenstraße 15, 80331, München, Deutschland), then it must be on a beach in Goa (India). I speak of course of the Fisch Chettinad (€13.90) which defines the perfect Fish Curry, yet this dish itself, as served here, has evolved in the more than a decade that Hector has visited Indian Mango. In the pre-Curry-Heute days, the Fisch Chettinad had much more Masala, then became drier and grittier. At some point it was dropped from the Menu, Lamm Chettinad (€14.95) remains, yet Hector has continued to have Fisch Chettinad every time there has been a visit to München.  How many venues charge less for Fish than Lamb?

It’s eight days since Hector was in Deutschland. Marg is giving up a week of her school holiday to accompany weans to the south west of England. Jim, who might make an appearance in these pages on Tuesday, suggested a return to Annafest. If ever a week presented the perfect opperchancity, then this was it.

Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley arrived in München late last night. They were waiting at the main Augustiner House to accompany Hector to Indian Mango. Mr. O’Leary’s flight from Edinburgh to Memmingen was a fraction of Mr. Stelios’ flight to München Flughafen, it just meant a wasted ninety minutes at Memmingen waiting for a bus. So it goes. It was 19.00 when we arrived at Indian Mango, Herr Battra, the Manager, was outside serving, there was a suitably warm welcome when he saw the three of us. Many tables inside were occupied, we managed to get one adjacent to the cooking area. It was only then I spotted the proprietor – Mr. Jolly Kunjappu – who was deep in conversation with a family. His reaction on spotting us was captured for all time. Next up it was the Waiter, Sebastian, who has been here for years.

We were all having Fisch Chettinad:

Zweimal Spicy, Einmal Unter – was the directive. Two 500ml bottles of Still Water (€3.50) and a 400ml glass of Sparkling Water (€3.00) completed the Order. Rice is inclusive with the Mains, as is the European way.

Herrr Battra told us that it was so hot here yesterday that nobody could sit inside. The heat from the grills etc. was overpowering. He offered us a table outside when one became free.

No thanks, from here I can smell the Fish!

The aroma of Spicy Fish wafted through the premises, powerful, I may have hinted at how spectacular this Fish Curry is. Three warm plates were brought moments before the arrival of the food. Sebastian did the honours.

Once upon a time the Rice portion was insanely huge, this has been tempered.

*

Fisch Chettinad

I have noted the portion size shrink in the last couple of years, tonight it was restored to its former glory. Masses of white Fish sat in the Thickest of Masalas. The wetness, such as it was, sat at the base of the dish.

Through careful decanting, I was able to have the driest Fish Chettinad known to Hector followed by something a bit more resembling a Curry. The Garnish of Ginger and Tomato Strips and the slightest sprinkling of Fresh Coriander would add different Flavours and Textures. Gone it seems are the Coriander Stems. I had asked for – Spicy, this Chettinad was – Spicy – but well within tolerance levels. Maggie’s was more moderate, she was making comments of approval from the off.

The Fish was remarkably – Firm, none of that rubbery Monkfish served here. There was a blast of Mango at one point followed by a blast of Mint. Underlying this was the most superb blend of Spices and Herbs and the distinctive – Smokiness. Occasionally I have managed to cook a Fish Curry that looked like this, sometimes I produce something that tastes in the same ball park. Chef at Indian Mango produces something that is in a different league, and all based on Mr. Jolly’s mother’s recipes.

Clive lost a bit of his Curry, Maggie mopped it up. What a mistake to make – Gee – was her immediate remark having had her palate attacked by Spice way beyond that which she had enjoyed:

Don’t steal Clive’s ‘cos it’s hotter, karma will avenge thee.

Fishy – was her final comment describing her Curry.

Clive always enjoys his Curry, his remarks typically range from – excellent – to – very excellent. Tonight he was more profound:

It reminds me of why we always come here, excellent why would you bother going anywhere else? It’s not just dinner, it’s an eating experience.

Indeed why would you? This explains why the range of Curry Houses covered by Curry-Heute in München will never match that of say Köln or Erlangen. A Curry not had at Indian Mango is an opperchancity wasted. The Fisch Chettinad as served here is the definitive proof that this Curry does not have to feature Shorva.

Herr Battra offered us – Mango – as he calls it. Small complimentary bowls of Mango Lassi were presented. These did cool the palate quite quickly.

The Bill

51.70. (£46.16) Sterling has regained a Cent against the Euro since Boris came to power a few days ago. We have a long way to go to return to the halcyon days of £1.00 = €1.70.

The Aftermath

Chef was more than happy to pose for a photo as we made our way to the exit. Mr. Jolly was outside chatting with the same chap who was standing in the doorway as we arrived, and is featured in the above photo. His presence remains a mystery, we were introduced:

He does so much advertising for us – he mentioned to the chap.

Indian Mango opens at noon tomorrow. The train to Bamberg was chosen to permit another visit. There has to be time for a  Lamm Chettinad.

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – Just what Hector needed

I couldn’t let July pass without a visit to Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ).

The usual ? – asked Ayaz, Mein Host, as I entered @16.30. I gave the thumbs up – One Chapatti (£0.90). There was no sign of Chef Rashid today. Either Chef Anwar, or Ayaz himself, would prepare Hector’s Karahi Gosht (£7.90).

Initially, one other customer was present, then a family came in and occupied the table mid-room. I may have seen them before at Karahi Palace. Four Chapattis went upstairs, strange, that was all.

 

Last Saturday, Ron MacKenna of – The Herald – wrote a very favourable review of Karahi Palace. Having consulted – Curry-Heute – he too ordered Karahi Gosht, though the published photo was of a leg of Chicken and a very wet Curry. Karahi Gosht is entirely different, well it is when served properly as it most certainly is – here.

Ayaz brought a jug of water then a Modest Salad. I declined the offer of – Mint Sauce.

The wait was not long, a simple spread.

*

*

Karahi Gosht

I have posted videos of the Karahi Gosht as served at Karahi Palace on previous occasions. Once again, the Karahi sizzled in the karahi. How much – tepid – food has Hector been served in the last month? This was remarkable.

Beneath the Toppings of Ginger Strips and Fresh Coriander, there was visibly more Tomato-based Masala this afternoon. Beneath, I could see the Big Bones with a mass of Lamb attached, but couldn’t touch them, far too hot. The Chapatti would later be used as an oven glove such was the temperature of this meal.

Having forgotten to take my – magic pill – I had to eat very, very, slowly. If anything, this made me savour the magnificent Masala even more. Sliced Green Chillies were encountered, which explained why this Karahi Gosht was decidedly Spicier than the norm. When I was able to take in the Lamb, so once again I was made to appreciate why I have been here over a hundred times. Soft, Tender, beautifully cooked and then the Flavour. The Masala, the Oil, the Meat, everything working in harmony.

As Ayaz approached the family so he nodded in my direction. This was enough, he could tell how much I was enjoying this Karahi Gosht.

The Bill

£8.70. Buttons – as was written in – The Herald.

The Aftermath

Ayaz was on the phone taking an order as I departed, so no chance to chat, but then he is a man of few words.

Aloo Gobi – I have never ordered it here.

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Aberdeen – Lahore Karahi – Da Capo al Fine

A few visits back to Lahore Karahi (145 King St, Aberdeen, AB24 5AE), Hector was served a Fish Curry (£9.50) with Methi, it was – Wonderful, truly – Outstanding. Chef had stirred some Methi in towards serving, it worked a treat. On my last visit I hoped to repeat the experience, sadly, Chef simply took some Fish and threw a handful of Herbs at it. There was no Masala to speak of, a disappointment. This evening Hector was determined to have his Fish Curry with Methi the way it was served first time.

The rendezvous with Euan and Graeme was for 18.30. Arriving first, a Menu was provided, shiny and new, but the prices remain the same. The Bread prices are possibly the most favourable in Aberdeen. In terms of Rice, anything above basic Boiled Rice (£2.00) is relatively hefty. Beware of the Chana Pilau (£5.25). When Euan arrived, more menus were provided. As soon as Graeme took his seat, the young waiter was over to take the Order. A bit previous.

When we were ready I beckoned to the waiter. Achari Chicken (£7.95) for Euan, Achari Gosht (£8.50) for Graeme. In their last visits here together, Euan and Graeme have shared Rice and a Peshwari Naan (£2.75). On both occasions they found it to be too – Sweet. I thought it was worth reminding them of this. Tonight, they would share a Tandoori Naan (£1.60) and Pilau Rice (£3.00). For Hector, a Tandoori Paratha (£2.75).

I relayed the saga of the Fish Curry with Methi to the young waiter, he hadn’t a clue what I was talking about. I summoned the chap who was the manager this evening. A Fish Curry with Methi and Masala was agreed upon, however, it was still the young waiter who recorded the Order.

Euan took advantage of the BYOB and brought a couple of bottles of Bier. Neither seemed an ideal accompaniment for Curry, Hector passed. Lahore Karahi still don’t sell Sparkling Water, I should remember to bring my own.

The Paratha was Layered and Flaky but turned Crispy very quickly. There was no sign of it ever having been buttered in the preparation. Not the best. The Plain Naan is very plain – remarked Euan. Looking at the photos, it is difficult to distinguish between the Naan and the Paratha.

The Rice was enough to share. A Complimentary Salad was brought after everything else had been assembled on the table, a bit late. We could have been nibbling on that whilst we waited for the Mains. In the end, Graeme was the only person to touch the Salad

Achari Gosht

The Garnish of Ginger Strips and Fresh Coriander was decidedly – Minimal. The Lamb was presented in large pieces in a blended Masala. This was nearly my choice this evening.

Graeme’s verdict:

It was tasty, but could have been spicier. The Lamb was very well cooked.

Achari Chicken

Those who order a Curry with Chicken still baffle me.

Euan’s verdict:

I really enjoyed it. I don’t get out much. It wasn’t spicy. This place is as good as any Indian restaurant I have been to in Aberdeen.

Hector actually believes Lahore Karahi to be one of the top two Curry venues in Aberdeen, though after tonight and following on from my last visit, perhaps this will have to be re-evaluated.

Fish Curry with Methi

Again topped with minimal Ginger Strips and Fresh Coriander, the heart sank as soon as this Curry was placed on the table. There was no Masala, this was identical to the disappointing Fish Curry that was brought last time. Again, Hector had a plate of Fish and Herbs. Serve me this in München at Indian Mango and I wax lyrically, their Fish Chettinad is in a league of its own.

The Fish Curry was well Spiced and very well Seasoned. I prefer Dry Curry, and this most certainly was. The Flavours were very good indeed, the Fish, the Herbs. I was caught in two minds: simply enjoy what lay before me, or recall just how Wonderful this Curry could have been.

When a customer makes a specific request, then surely it should be heeded?

Whilst we ate, neither the waiter or manager approached us to ask the customary question. By the time our Order was presented, we were the only Diners at Lahore Karahi. The serving staff were conspicuous therefore by their absence. This takes me right back to my first visits to Lahore Karahi when I sensed there was the potential to serve Excellent Curry but the staff were more of a hindrance than a help. We had to wait until the staff were ready to secure – The Bill.

The Bill

£33.30. There cannot be many venues in Aberdeen where three people can eat for this.

The Aftermath

The staff had to be told:

There was no Masala. You gave me the opposite of what I asked for, you didn’t listen, your colleague didn’t listen, Chef didn’t listen.

Sorry – was the reply.

Ambal’s Restaurant has closed, again. This a considerable loss to the Aberdeen Curry scene. I particularly liked their Fayre, the people were also very accommodating.

Two venues have popped up on the Curry-Heute radar. I visited Heat and Dust (13 Crown St, Aberdeen AB11 6HA) en route to Lahore Karahi this evening. They only serve Buffet which is quite restricting, however, I saw enough to tempt. They had Fish Curry.

The Blue Elephant (299-303 George St, Aberdeen AB25 1EP) originally opened as a Takeaway and then evolved into a Restaurant. Their Menu is extensive and hopefully accurate. The prices are the lowest I have ever encountered Aberdeen, so it will be interesting to see the portion size. Bread prices, Chapatti and Roti excepted, are also better than most Aberdeen venues.

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Aberdeen – Namaste Delhi – Have You Booked?

When Namaste Delhi (Ground floor: 64 Bridge St., Aberdeen AB11 6JN) was established last year directly underneath the long established – Nazma Tandoori – they must have known that there was no point serving the – Mainstream. To make their mark, – something different – would have to be offered. The – Tapas – route was adopted, the décor is also contemporary, Namaste Delhi is decidedly commensurate with the new breed of Curry Houses in Aberdeen.

There was time on the – Golden Coach – coming north from Glasgow this afternoon to study the online menu. One word stood out that particularly pleased Hector – Dry. Other sources had photos of the Fayre, some of which showed mainstream – Soupy Curry.  By the time I reached Aberdeen, I had made my choices. It was then a matter of having Marg complement these.

We entered Namaste Delhi @19.45. We stood and waited as a sign requested. We were greeted by the chap we would later establish as the Manager:

Have you booked?

It is a Tuesday night, the premises are huge.  With three sets of diners already in situ, there was no problem securing a table. We were invited to take a table accommodating  four at the wall. Marg observed the next diners to arrive had booked and were allocated a window table. Who wants to be – window dressing?

Two large cards were brought, the drinks menu was already on the table. The Waiter outlined that Namaste Delhi serves – Tapas – portions and that we should consider this when ordering. This was my first opperchancity to mention that I did not wish anything that had Capsicum. I asked about the size of the bottle of Belu Sparkling Water (£3.20). We were informed it was 750ml – very acceptable, given the prices we have been paying in Corsica and Sardinia in the last couple of weeks.

There had to be Lamb Chops (£6.95), it has been a while, though Marg did have some at Namaste (Cagliari, Sardegna) recently. These would be shared. The description of the Rajasthani Laal Maans (£6.95) was magnetic – smoked lamb. Irresistible. But then, this was a first visit, so who knows what would come? Hector’s favoured Side Dish – Aloo Gobi (£5.15) had to be sampled.

Marg considered the Keema Mutter (£6.45) surprisingly described as – Semi Dry. Surely this is the epitome of a Dry Curry? The Railway Lamb Curry (£6.45) was the next Dish I would have chosen, Marg must have read the subliminal signals. To complete the order: Jeera Rice (£2.50) and Lachcha Paratha with Methi (£2.50).

The Order was relayed.

You know your Indian food – was the remark made by the East European chap whom I can reveal to be Toms, the Manager. Again I repeated the requirement that no Capsicum should appear. He thought for a moment then declared that it should not be in anything cooked, but could appear in the garnish.

No Garnish!

It was confirmed that we have no allergy in terms of Capsicum. I simply expressed my dislike of Green Peppers in Indian Cuisine. There was also the issue of Capsicum as – Ballast. Just what one would not desire in a – Tapas – portion.

Poppadoms and three Dips were brought, the Waiter warned that there could be Capsicum in the Mixed Vegetable pot. Lime Pickle? – I suggested. He insisted it was otherwise.

Complimentary food in Aberdoom: having left the last Poppadoms that were set before us untouched, we tore in. Marg liked the Green Dip, I preferred the Spicier, Red. As for the – Mixed Vegetable – this was – Lime Pickle –  by any other name.

The Order arrived in good time. After the photographic ritual, each Dish was arranged as they would be devoured.

Lamb Chops

Two, for £6.95. I had jokingly said to Marg that we could have one Lamb Chop each as the plural had been used. Three days after – Curry-Heute – was mentioned in the The (Glasgow) Herald’s review of Karahi Palace (Glasgow), where the Quality and Quantity of Lamb Chops which cost – buttons – were praised, here was another classic – welcome to Aberdeen. One Chop each, so it goes.

Fortunately, the Chops had been cooked to perfection. They were charred in the extremities, succulent in the interior, full of flavour. Lamb Chops, but a Soupçon.

The plate set aside, it was time to approach the rest. Toms, Mein Host, was over to see all was well. I had to register my displeasure at being served two Lamb Chops only – I prefer four! (each) The Downsman (Crawley) which still sets the UK standard as far as the coverage in Curry-Heute goes, can make a profit by serving four large Lamb Chops for £9.40. Toms stated that he tries to keep the prices down, and has to watch his margins. Maybe after Brexit, the price of Lamb will plummet?

The Jeera Rice was an ample portion. Taking half, there was still more than Marg required. There was no issue with value for money here. No Aberdeen Curry Blogging would be complete without a rant about Bread.

The Paratha was quite well cooked, Flaky and Layered. It might have been Softer. The Methi was visible, cooked in. This Paratha had potential, but look at the size. £2.50? It’s Flour and Water (with a bit of Butter and Herb). I note the same price is charged for a Plain Paratha and those with fillings.

Aloo Gobi

Potato and Cauliflower, and not very much of either. One usually hopes for Minimal Masala, not an abundance, here was just a – threat. The Potatoes were fine, the Cauliflower could have been a bit more – al dente. My recent Aloo Gobi at Namaste (Cagliari, Sardegna) has set the standard of late.

Rajasthani Laal Maans

This was the make or break Dish. The sight of the whole Dried Red Chilli had me won immediately. The Menu mentioned – smoked – the presence of these wondrous Chillies is typically associated with – Smokiness. This was a Lamb Chettinad, or perhaps better than. The dark, blended Masala, was thicker than the Shorva which unfortunately prevails in so many venues.

Six pieces of Meat, two fewer than the standard – full portion. The Lamb was delightfully, Tender. The Spice was Moderate, the Seasoning pitched at a good level. Most importantly, this had the Smokiness that Hector desires.

That we were sharing meant only half of each portion was up for grabs. I would love to have gorged on this. On a return visit I would most certainly make ordering this a priority. Two portions? A half kilo I could dream of. This was very much a Hector Curry.

Railway Lamb Curry

A sprinkling of Fresh Coriander topped a Masala lighter in colour and a thinner Texture. Marg got there first, so the count of solids was not recorded. There may have been a comparable number of pieces of Potato and Meat, which if the case, means less Meat.

Marg declared her preference for this dish. Whilst Coconut (Milk?) was present, it was not dominant, a Milder Curry and thankfully not Sweet. The Flavour was true to the sense of – Indian Curry, very Traditional. This was definitely worthy of future consideration.

Every morsel was eaten. Hector never normally manages to finish a Paratha.

*

Toms, Mein Host, presented two glasses of Mango Lassi – for our appraisal. He is still working on the blend and therefore this is not on the Menu. We discussed the various approaches to making Lassi. I suggested that Farmfoods frozen Mango as suitable, reliable and cheap. The conversation would continue at length. Previously, even Marg had raised the matter of Bradford Curry Houses serving Rice / Naan – or up to three Chapattis accompanying each Curry.

Marg was intrigued by Toms’ accent, we asked. Latvia – was the answer. Cue the Curry-Heute Blog which features Riga. We talked – Curry – which for Hector is the best way to conclude any meal.

The Bill

£30.51 Retaining the receipt guarantees a 15% discount on the next visit, but not 30% on Lamb Chops.

The Aftermath

More photos, and more discussion, this time of other Aberdeen venues. That is between Toms and myself.

I shall certainly return to Namaste Delhi, though as this trip marks the final sleeps at Forbesfield, visits to this city will inevitably will be fewer.

Namaste Delhi – Menu

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