If there’s a better Fish Curry than that served at Indian Mango (Zweibrückenstraße 15, 80331, München, Deutschland), then it must be on a beach in Goa (India). I speak of course of the Fisch Chettinad (€13.90) which defines the perfect Fish Curry, yet this dish itself, as served here, has evolved in the more than a decade that Hector has visited Indian Mango. In the pre-Curry-Heute days, the Fisch Chettinad had much more Masala, then became drier and grittier. At some point it was dropped from the Menu, Lamm Chettinad (€14.95) remains, yet Hector has continued to have Fisch Chettinad every time there has been a visit to München. How many venues charge less for Fish than Lamb?
It’s eight days since Hector was in Deutschland. Marg is giving up a week of her school holiday to accompany weans to the south west of England. Jim, who might make an appearance in these pages on Tuesday, suggested a return to Annafest. If ever a week presented the perfect opperchancity, then this was it.
Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley arrived in München late last night. They were waiting at the main Augustiner House to accompany Hector to Indian Mango. Mr. O’Leary’s flight from Edinburgh to Memmingen was a fraction of Mr. Stelios’ flight to München Flughafen, it just meant a wasted ninety minutes at Memmingen waiting for a bus. So it goes. It was 19.00 when we arrived at Indian Mango, Herr Battra, the Manager, was outside serving, there was a suitably warm welcome when he saw the three of us. Many tables inside were occupied, we managed to get one adjacent to the cooking area. It was only then I spotted the proprietor – Mr. Jolly Kunjappu – who was deep in conversation with a family. His reaction on spotting us was captured for all time. Next up it was the Waiter, Sebastian, who has been here for years.
We were all having Fisch Chettinad:
Zweimal Spicy, Einmal Unter – was the directive. Two 500ml bottles of Still Water (€3.50) and a 400ml glass of Sparkling Water (€3.00) completed the Order. Rice is inclusive with the Mains, as is the European way.
Herrr Battra told us that it was so hot here yesterday that nobody could sit inside. The heat from the grills etc. was overpowering. He offered us a table outside when one became free.
No thanks, from here I can smell the Fish!
The aroma of Spicy Fish wafted through the premises, powerful, I may have hinted at how spectacular this Fish Curry is. Three warm plates were brought moments before the arrival of the food. Sebastian did the honours.
Once upon a time the Rice portion was insanely huge, this has been tempered.
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Fisch Chettinad
I have noted the portion size shrink in the last couple of years, tonight it was restored to its former glory. Masses of white Fish sat in the Thickest of Masalas. The wetness, such as it was, sat at the base of the dish.
Through careful decanting, I was able to have the driest Fish Chettinad known to Hector followed by something a bit more resembling a Curry. The Garnish of Ginger and Tomato Strips and the slightest sprinkling of Fresh Coriander would add different Flavours and Textures. Gone it seems are the Coriander Stems. I had asked for – Spicy, this Chettinad was – Spicy – but well within tolerance levels. Maggie’s was more moderate, she was making comments of approval from the off.
The Fish was remarkably – Firm, none of that rubbery Monkfish served here. There was a blast of Mango at one point followed by a blast of Mint. Underlying this was the most superb blend of Spices and Herbs and the distinctive – Smokiness. Occasionally I have managed to cook a Fish Curry that looked like this, sometimes I produce something that tastes in the same ball park. Chef at Indian Mango produces something that is in a different league, and all based on Mr. Jolly’s mother’s recipes.
Clive lost a bit of his Curry, Maggie mopped it up. What a mistake to make – Gee – was her immediate remark having had her palate attacked by Spice way beyond that which she had enjoyed:
Don’t steal Clive’s ‘cos it’s hotter, karma will avenge thee.
Fishy – was her final comment describing her Curry.
Clive always enjoys his Curry, his remarks typically range from – excellent – to – very excellent. Tonight he was more profound:
It reminds me of why we always come here, excellent why would you bother going anywhere else? It’s not just dinner, it’s an eating experience.
Indeed why would you? This explains why the range of Curry Houses covered by Curry-Heute in München will never match that of say Köln or Erlangen. A Curry not had at Indian Mango is an opperchancity wasted. The Fisch Chettinad as served here is the definitive proof that this Curry does not have to feature Shorva.
Herr Battra offered us – Mango – as he calls it. Small complimentary bowls of Mango Lassi were presented. These did cool the palate quite quickly.
The Bill
€51.70. (£46.16) Sterling has regained a Cent against the Euro since Boris came to power a few days ago. We have a long way to go to return to the halcyon days of £1.00 = €1.70.
The Aftermath
Chef was more than happy to pose for a photo as we made our way to the exit. Mr. Jolly was outside chatting with the same chap who was standing in the doorway as we arrived, and is featured in the above photo. His presence remains a mystery, we were introduced:
He does so much advertising for us – he mentioned to the chap.
Indian Mango opens at noon tomorrow. The train to Bamberg was chosen to permit another visit. There has to be time for a Lamm Chettinad.