Trieste – Surya Yoga Indiano Ristorante – Unique Fish Curry

This is Day #4 of five in Trieste, Curry-Heute was overdue. Meanwhile Marg has banned me from ordering Pizza in Italia ever again, Bir&Fud (Roma) possibly excepted. This Pizza served at Pizza Restaurant Mascalzone Latino was disgusting. With Pizza, it is very much a case of I know what I like, and it ain’t – Thin and Soggy. In 1976, I bought the cheapest of Pizza in Napoli, it was a Takeaway, cold, horrible. The Pizza slices sold under Karlsplatz/Stachus (München) over the years with a large piece of Salami atop, always impressed. My first ever genuine Pizza was in Tiberias (Israel) in 1988, I encountered – Anchovies – for the first time: horrible back then, cannot get enough of them now. For Hector, a Pizza must be – Deep Pan – and have Black Olives. I like the Toppings to be cooked, not floating, and no raw Vegetables a la Artichoke. The edges of this Pizza did not look edible, too Dry ironically, no attempt at making the Toppings go to the edge. Even the way the Olives are clustered shows the callous way they were chucked on. The Cheese is in three splodges, I thought it was Egg at first, cooking on the Bread as I have been served elsewhere.

Are you enjoying your Pizza? – the Waiter asked.

Do you have an hour – was my reply.

In the end they took this mass of pulp away and put it out its misery.

I like American Pizza – was my parting shot.

For Lunch today I had a choice of venues, both with virtually the same name and two parallel streets apart. There was a challenge for Hector Holmes to get to the bottom of this. Yoga (Via Filippo Corridoni, 2, 34131 Trieste TS Italia) showed up on all searches, Surya Yoga Ristorante Indiano (Via della Madonnina, 4/d, 34131 Trieste TS Italia) took more effort.

We arrived at Yoga just before 13.00, Chaps pulled up outside, there was a bit of a kerfuffle at the doorway. Marg thought we were going in, I wanted to see as much of the Menu before committing. Lamb Achar (€7.00) was a possibility. Did the Fish Curry have to be Fish Tikka Masala (€8.00). The latter made me more determined to check out Surya Yoga. En route I realised how close we were to both the holidaying Masala and the excellent Krishna.

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The stone arched interior of Surya Yoga impressed as we entered. Two Chaps sat at a table mid-room, we were shown to a table in the corner by the window. Their presence made it difficult to photograph the interior however, a third member joined their party and they were moved to the far side. I was then able to secure the required photos.

A Young Waiter brought the Menus, I had to ask him the difference between Fish Curry Masala (€8.00) and Jalfrezi Fish (€8.00). He admitted the latter would be – Wet – and so Fish Curry Masala it would be. I had a certain page from a well known and reliable Curry Website to hand to show – No Capsicum!

Capsicum is the Darth Vader to Curry – I said to the no doubt bemused Waiter. I think I made my point. Jerra Matter Palau (€4.00) would accompany.

Marg stuck to her ritual – Keema Samosas – (€4.00), then announced a Mango Lassi (€2.50). A 750ml Bottle of Sparkling Water (€2.00) was good value, we ordered two eventually.

The Order was given to the Waiter, Cumin laden Poppadoms and Dips arrived shortly afterwards. Today we had no Tamarind, the presence of Mango pleased Marg.

The Cumin Seeds make them so much better – remarked Marg. These Poppadoms are a different species from those served in the UK. They are Seasoned, have much more Flavour, could this be the root cause of me not bothering about Poppadoms at home any longer?

That was the last we saw of the Waiter, thereafter it was Mein Host who would deal with us. He brought the Samosas after a few minutes, so the request to have all food served simultaneously had been lost – again.

The Samosas were a good size, but were served on a bed of tired Cabbage. This did not bode well for Marg’s Salad.

Quite filling – was an almost immediate comment.

It’s lovely, enough for a meal – Marg concluded, but where was the Salad?

The Mango Lassi was value for money compared to many servings I have seen over the years. Marg found seeds, more Cumin? The Lassi was thoroughly enjoyed.

A full half hour after we had taken our seats, the Salad was presented. I encouraged Marg to start, before it got cold…

Slices of Onion, Cucumber, Tomato and Carrot were topped with Lemon and some more of the tired Cabbage. Hector already had his eye on the Onion slices. Not the best of Salads, but then how many have been to the now missed Lasani Grill (Glasgow) for one of Waris’ Specials?

Fish Curry Masala

Ginger Strips and Sliced Tomatoes were the Garnish. The Masala was clearly Thick and Creamy, approaching my very own Machi Masala Recipe.

Salmone con salsa – the Menu said. I would never have recognised the Fish otherwise. The Fish was cut small, the Pinkness was evident. Marg took a Soupçon:

My kind of Curry – said Marg who kept coming back for more.

There was a Spice presence, not excessive, the Seasoning was not an issue. Initially I was not getting the anticipated strong Fish Flavour, in time this developed.

The spare Onion slices were stirred in, with the Ginger this varied the Texture. I mustn’t overlook the Rice.

Jerra Matter Palau

The portion was sensible, the Cumin Seeds kept hitting the palate, the Peas added further Diversity. This turned out to be a perfect complement.

As I ate on, so the level of appreciation increased. A solitary piece of Yellow Capsicum emerged, I’ll forgive Chef. 

The realisation dawned, this was a unique interpretation of Fish Curry, I was glad to have encountered it.

By the time Mein Host came over to the table I was well impressed by what I was eating. My respects were paid.

The Bill

29.50 (£26.11) With two large Bottles of Sparkling Water and a Lassi, no complaints here.

The Aftermath

By this time I had ascertained that Mein Host had both Surya Yoga and Yoga, I had to solve the mystery of two supposedly rival premises so close to each other.

Yoga has been in operation for some nine years, the premises are rented. Mein Host purchased Surya Yoga four months ago, in time the two Restaurants will merge to these premises. Hector picked the correct venue to visit.

As is often the case,  Mein Host was keen to know where we came from. The UK sets the Curry Standard in Europe, though from my encounters in Hellas-Greece and Italia, Curry is becoming more contemporary.

Mein Host comes to London a few times a year, he should take the train to Glasgow via Manchester and Bradford.

As we were about to depart, a Soupçon of Dessert was placed on the counter. Hot and squidgy, Marg always likes to end on a sweet note.

Surya Yoga – Menu extracts

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