With Steve joining Hector and Dr. Stan, we moved on to Brno and then Bratislava from Praha. Despite a few sources reporting there was Curry to be had in Brno, no Curry Houses were encountered by chance. Temptation was avoided. Arriving in Bratislava, we were hungry, there was only one place to go. Lahore Pakistani & Indian Restaurant (Svätoplukova 49, 821 08 Bratislava Slovakia) impressed Marg and Hector earlier this year, whereas – another place – we visited most certainly did not.
Walking in at 15.30, Mein Host the Chef looked around. I sensed a double take, maybe not. The couple, who had alighted from the same bus and inadvertently led the way to the off-street locus, were greeted first. Mein Host then came over with an outstretched hand, he had remembered me. It was seven months to the day since Hector and Marg were here, Lahore Pakistani & Indian Restaurant has therefore been open for nine.
Our collective complemented another couple already in situ. Yet another couple came in soon afterwards. We were nine, Mein Host realised he had his work cut out as he was on his own today. I told him we would be happy to wait. Who wants a Curry that simply comes out of – The Big Curry Pot – and is served in minutes? Curry of the Quality anticipated, takes time.
We had each studied the Menu and were ready to order. Having advised my fellow diners that they should consider the portions to be near Tapas in nature, Steve reacted with:
I wondered why the prices were so low.
We would each order two dishes with Rice. For Hector it had to be a revisit to the Curry which so impressed back in April – Beef Karahi (€5.40). Fish Curry (€4.50) would accompany. Dr. Stan and Steve both followed the Veg and non-Veg model respectively: Lamb Saag (€5.40) plus a Mushroom Mutter (€3.50), Lamb Rogan Josh (€5.40) plus Paneer Masala (€3.90). A Sparkling Water (€1.30) and two glasses of Mango Lassi (€1.00) completed the Order.
On my first visits to Yadgar (Glasgow) I remarked to Howard and Dr. Stan, that the forty-five minutes wait for the Goshat Karahi was the longest we had ever sat together without a Bier in front of us. The impressive, I was told Lassi, was soon finished, I eked out the Sparkling Water. The wait would become one hour, the aromas from the kitchen filled the room. That Fish was being prepared became very apparent, this matched that which preceded the arrival of the Fisch Chettinad at Indian Mango (München). A young assistant had been drafted in, he brought the plates and finally the food.
Four bowls were arranged on the table, one Meat Curry with a decidedly dark Masala, plus another much lighter. I could see the Fish protruding from the Masala in the third, what was the fourth? The young chap told us Mein Host would come and tell us about the Dishes. Moments later, Chef arrived with the two remaining Dishes, one was Chicken with abundant Capsicum, who had ordered this? The other was a mysterious combination of Vegetables. At any other time, in any other place, the Chicken Curry would have been returned. This – Beef Karahi – could become the biggest wind up played on Hector by any restaurant. Time to fall on the sword.
Three portions of Rice were also brought, well judged portions for what we had ordered, too much for a single Curry.
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Chicken Curry with Capsicum – Chaos
Having tolerated the Chicken Curry served in the Buffet two days ago at Taj Mahal Express (Praha), I did not want to eat this. Beneath the garnish of Coriander and Ginger lay an abundance of Peppers of all colours, a complete anathema. Had Curry-Heute been cursed. The Oily Masala looked as if it could have come from a jar, but not of Curry. I know it didn’t. However, the thought of a jar of Sweet & Sour Sauce with strands of Capsicum embedded, came to mind. How did I rescue myself from this?
I spooned the Chicken and minimal sauce such as I could extract from the bowl, then arranged it on one side of the Rice leaving the other side for the Fish Curry.
I have cooked Chicken Curry, I have taught people how to make Chicken Curry, I have eaten Chicken Curry this week already. I simply know that there is better. IMHO, all other Curry is better.
The quality of the Chicken here was as good as any I have encountered, and way better than the dry, solid mass served to me two days ago in Praha. The flavour of Peppers had permeated the Masala. Hector was not having a good time, so far, there would be lots of unpleasant – burping – later.
By the time I had sieved out the Capsicum that had got on to my plate, there was a pile left on top of the Rice, and much more in the bowl. Let’s move on.
Fish Curry – Cosmos
As mentioned, the aroma was powerful. The Masala looked mysterious, appealing, suitably Thick and far from excessive. The White Fish sat proudly in the Masala, there was enough here to rescue the day.
Wow! This was a Fish Curry! How difficult is to find outstanding Fish Curry, this had everything. The Masala had a different appearance from the standard Blended Masala, the Oil was also separating. The Texture was such that it did not sit on the plate as an unwelcome Soupy Blended Masala would. How had this impressive Masala been achieved? The Fish was firm, yet flaked simply on touch. Then there was the joy of the Flavours…
The Seasoning I look for was perfectly judged. The Fish tasted like – Fish. So often I report that it does not, the case of fresh water Fish versus that which was caught in the sea, perhaps. The Spice Level was no more than medium, this Curry was all about the Flavours, and had so much to give.
I decided I was coming back here tomorrow to have this again, and hopefully the Beef Karahi I had actually ordered.
Dr. Stan and Steve were not saying much initially, perhaps they were being sympathetic. Mein Host approached, both congratulated him on the quality of the Meat. He told us that he had been to Wien to buy the Meat. There he has access to quality, Fresh Meat, whereas in Bratislava it would be frozen.
On seeing the accumulating Capsicum, I reminded him that back in April, there was no Capsicum in the Beef Karahi.
That was a Pakistani Karahi, this is Indian – he informed me.
That’s a line I can use when ordering all future Karahi, and hopefully avoid a repeat of today’s – horror story.
Paneer Masala
This had all the appearance of a Chicken Tikka Masala, and so I suspect we were puzzled when it was placed on the table. Having eliminated the other possibilities it had to be the Cheese in Masala. In the nearly thirty years of Currying with Steve, I cannot recall him ever ordering a Cheese Curry/Starter. Why today? Steve’s words:
Mildly spiced, creamy sauce. Reasonably tasty, spoiled by the blandness of the diced cheese.
Well that’ll be Paneer then, OK if a topping on top of a Meat/Veg Curry to add a bit of – je ne sais quoi.
Lamb Rogan Josh
The lighter of the two Meat Dishes, again the Masala puzzled. I could see the Oil separating already leaving – pulped Onions – in the mash. This was a decidedly different Masala from the Fish Curry. Still no Big Curry Pot then. Steve:
Very tender lamb, and a nicely spiced dish, larger portion would be better.
Lamb Saag
Dark and Rich, I was hoping this was the Beef Karahi when it arrived. This was a perfect example of a Lamb and Spinach Curry where the Saag/Palak had been added to the Masala, not the mass of Green Herbs which too many venues resort to. I was convinced that I spotted slices of Carrot in the mix, Dr. Stan insisted otherwise. What then are the orange pieces top of the picture?
Dr. Stan was evidently enjoying this:
Very tender meat, the spice built up, subtle.
Mushroom Mutter
Mushroom and Peas in an Oily, but minimal Masala, topped with Cream. None of us had seen anything like this before.
Mushroom and Peas in a creamy ghee – was Dr. Stan’s description – it was good.
Having enjoyed a Curry that I would describe as – outstanding – on each of my two visits, my desire to sample more continues. Hector shall have his Beef Karahi – Pakistani style!
The Bill
€23.90 (£20.60) Mein Host suggested that there should be a discount given the error. I suspect the sum charged approached a random number.
The Aftermath
I verified the opening time tomorrow, 12.30. I declared my intention to return at 13.30. Mutton – was mentioned. Dr. Stan and Steve could not believe that when I paid, that that was for the three of us.