Glasgow – Madras Cafe – More Molillee

A Saturday afternoon in the erstwhile Curry Capital, Hector had Kofta Anda at Sheerin Palace in mind. When Marg announced she was free, the opperchancity to keep a promise was realised. Sea Bass Molillee as served at Madras Cafe (82 Howard St., Glasgow G1 4EE) impressed earlier this month, very much a Marg Curry. There was also a desire to establish any flexibility in the comparatively minimalist menu.

We arrived at 14.15 and were given a window table. A large bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.75) was quickly arranged, served cold on this hot summer’s day. The same waiter would serve us throughout our visit. Lamb Punjabi (£10.95) is potentially the most interesting Curry in the Scotland’s Favourites section of the Menu, but – cooked with chunky mixed peppers – is an absolute turn off.

Lamb Rogan Josh (£11.95) is a customary fallback when dining at a Mainstream Restaurant. I asked that – no Peppers – be added, as in – I don’t want to see any. This was accepted, not an issue. So why, when I gave my spiel last time, was I led straight to the Fish? Had that not occurred, then I would not have been here today to let Marg experience the impressive Sea Bass Molillee (£15.00).

Marg accepted that she would need Rice, she opted for Coconut Rice (£3.50), Fried Rice with Jeera (£3.20) once again for Hector. Another reason for the speedy return was to sample the elusive – White Paratha – or Malabar Paratha (£2.95) – as is written.

Moments after the Order was placed, Spiced Onions and two Poppadoms were brought to the table. Excellent, and totally in keeping with another section of The Curry-Heute Campaign, just bring them to the table, no fuss, no charge. Spicy, tasty Onions, much appreciated.

Once again, the Cumin, if any, had been added sparingly to the Jeera Rice. Possibly the same Rice had Coconut sprinkled over it to satisfy the moniker. That we had ordered a Rice portion each was justified, certainly not enough to share.

The Malabar Paratha looked glorious, and was easily the largest of this type encountered to date. The magical swirl was present, the Flavour from the white flour was so much better than the standard Wholemeal Paratha. This was nearly ticking all of Hector’s boxes, however, there was a firmness that puzzled. Soft and spongy is how I have enjoyed these before, today’s was not like that. Close to the Hector idyll, not quite there, but still way better than a Wholemeal Paratha.

Lamb Rogan Josh

Topped with a sprinkling of Coriander, this looked like a Classic Curry. The Masala had a suitable viscosity and was not excessive. I counted the Meat on the plate, ten large pieces, each could be halved, a decent portion justifying the price.

When Curry is served in a soup plate what does one do with the Rice? Arranging the Meat and Masala on top of the Rice is the custom, this looks a bit weird. It means stirring Rice into the Curry as one eats, but it does leave the exposed parts for dipping the Bread.

The Lamb was super-soft, quality Meat. The Menu describes – intense heat – really? The Spice Level was far from testing, the seasoning was decidedly – low. The Tomato in the base sauce came across momentarily. Where was the Cumin blast from the Rice? That never happened, no seeds? This was Mainstream Curry, nothing distinctive, nothing dramatic. Did I enjoy it? Well, of course, but this does go a long way to confirming that Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses are in a different league.

Sea Bass Molillee

If anything this was an even larger portion than I was served last time. Two whole Fish sat smothered in the yellow, creamy, Masala, Marg’s Curry idyll. I watched Marg set aside two large, whole Green Chillies, these crossed the table. One therefore had the choice of eating this Curry with the full Chilli blast as I had recently done, else one could take it easy.

On accepting that the portion would defeat her, Marg left one Fish untouched, this would go home.

Lovely, flaky fish, surrounded in a sea of creamy, garlic, ginger sauce. I enjoyed the spicy kick which accompanied the dish, but avoided the many chillies. The Coconut Rice was a good addition. I ate a good half, looking forward to eating the rest at home.

(She’ll be lucky.)

The Bill

£40.65 No discount today, there is a scheme advertised on each table whereby one can save £5.00 on future visits. I didn’t examine this further.  Did I actually receive Jeera Rice?

The Aftermath

Chef Shabu did make an appearance during our visit to bid farewell to a couple, our waiter did chat with us briefly. Apparently a special Indian flour is used to make the Malabar Paratha. There is a video on a well known social medium showing Chef Shabu in action, it gives away no secrets.

Chicken Chettinad (£10.95) is on the Menu. I asked if Fish Chettinad could be served. Apparently it can be provided. I have missed Banana Leaf who serve a Creamy interpretation of Fish Chettinad. If anyone knows where in Partick they are moving to, please advise.

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