My first Curry in conterminous Portugal was at Taste of Pakistan (Rua Sao Pedro Martir 37-B, 1100-555 Lisboa, Portugal) back in 2020. I was blown away, particularly by the Vegetable Biryani, which was ordered as an accompaniment to my customary Lamb Karahi. This experience was definitely amongst my principal reasons for wishing to return to Lisboa.
That I have had Curry already in Gaia (Porto), Cascais and Lisboa, itself, on this trip was seen as a prelude to my return to Taste of Pakistan. High expectations.
Two years ago, the passageway that is Rua Sao Pedro Martir, was under renovation, as was clearly recorded. Today, scaffolding gone, more inviting, by day certainly. The signage at Taste of Pakistan was recognised as Marg and Hector walked up the slope at 14.00. The staff greeted, they appeared to be taken by surprise, two relatives of Caspar Milquetoast entering their premises. I chose the table that gave Marg some view, well of the TV at least, and myself the view of the room. Marg accepts her fate.
The laminated menu was on the table, to say it was minimal would indeed be brief. No prices, is this legal, in the EU? Rua Sao Pedro Martir is not Rodeo Drive, I reckoned we would be alright.
Sitting adjacent to the counter, I engaged the young chap who would serve us.
No Vegetable Biryani? This was confirmed. Can you imagine my level of disappointment? Perhaps, if Lockdown #2 hadn’t forced the cancellation of our return in 2021, the original menu may have still been in existence? Mix Vegetable, a Curry, was listed. Why no offer of making a Vegetable Biryani then?
Mutton Karahi was the only Curry I could conceivably order. What the hell, I’ll have Mutton Biryani to accompany. A waste of food would be inevitable, but maybe nobody will ever know the cost.
For reasons, unfathomable, Marg did not desire Curry three days on the trot. Starters, a snack. She enquired about Samosa, not on the menu, not available. Hang on, – available at weekends – we were told. And to think she declined Chicken Samosa back in 2020.
The menu photo of Chapli Kabab suggested a portion of four with a Salad garnish. Marg negotiated a portion of two Chapli and a separate Salad. As ever, I ensured that Capsicum would not make an appearance. Why should they in this menu, well it was a matter of belt and braces. Medium Spice was agreed.
Two 25cl bottles of Sparkling Water completed the Order.
From the kitchen I heard a relatively high pitched voice, a lady Chef? I asked the chap about the changes. A new owner, he confirmed, but the same Chef. Knowing I had a photo of Chef 2020, out came the Oppo. Not him, the other one. All would be revealed.
The Order was assembled, it became instantly apparent that the volume of Marg’s snack would mean that no assistance was coming my way.
Chapli Kabab
The volume of Mince that could have made four decent sized Chapli had been combined to make two! Marg managed to raise a smile for the photo. Remember, the three thick slices of Lime are in the foreground. This was the biggest plate of Mince ever set before the Lady. Then there was the Salad.
Chunky – does not even begin to describe this. (One ought to see Marg’s – coleslaw!)
Sliced, not diced Carrot. Sliced Onions and Cucumber, all effort spared. Marg summoned Olive Oil else this would have been cast aside. Salad? This was a Greengrocer’s display.
Despite their humongousness, the Chapli were cooked through, raw Mince would have unacceptable. I had to take a sample, I could have taken half, Marg would not have complained. Moistness had been maintained, a Spice Level which did not cause Marg to comment meant all was well here. An – earthy – Flavour emanated from the blend of Meat and Spices, and no doubt Herbs also. If one was going to face – death by Chapli – then today might as well be the day.
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Mutton Biryani
The same Topping of sliced Almonds, as featured two years ago, was a most welcomed sight, continuity. It was Marg who spotted that the Lamb was on-the-bone. A Sucky Bone was present here. There was no Meat count, two Dishes, a huge challenge.
The Pilao had a richness of Flavour but not the impact of its Vegetable counterpart. How could it? Vegetables add a – Diversity of Texture. Potato absorbs so much Flavour. Today I had Mutton and Rice, plain on paper, but damned enjoyable. And there was still what was meant to be the main event to consider.
Mutton Karahi
I would love to know what was sprinkled on top with the Coriander. The large cut Meat, again – on-the-bone – sat in the blended Masala. I decanted the contents of the karahi on top of about half of the Biryani. Hector, what were you up to? Marg’s little fingers stayed firmly across the table, absolutely no assistance was forthcoming.
The Masala should have been had with Bread, I let it soak into the Rice. The Spice Level was not testing, the Seasoning developed as I ate. There definitely was Flavour here, and something quite familiar. The distinctiveness of the blend of Spices was comforting on the palate. This was the Desi Cuisine I seek, wherever I dine.
The Meat, from both Karahi and Biryani, was generously giving of Flavour. This was beyond all Lamb had on this trip. Tender, with the right amount of chewing – was noted.
The combination that sat before me was so close to home, I had to be in a good place. This truly was the maximisation of the pleasure of eating, and I was never going to run out of food. This was beyond Hector’s ritual eating of Curry. For once, more Masala would have prolonged the seder. And maybe some Potato.
The Bill
€31.90 (£29.59) Card payment accepted.
Now, you’re all wondering what cost what…
€1.20 – Sparkling Water (x2)
€8.50 – Mutton Biryani
€7.00 – Mutton Karahi
€7.00 – Chapli Kabab
€7.00 – Salad
Note: Marg has made no comment about her Chapli, but she had plenty to say afterwards about the – Rodeo Drive – pricing of the Salad.
The Aftermath
He was more handsome back then – our chap said of Chef. All were assembled, the updated staff photo for Taste of Pakistan. A backstreet Restaurant certainly worthy of a visit, however, moments after we departed, something happened … and I’m not referring to another magnificent night of European football.