Desi Curry in Lisboa, it was with an air of optimism that Hector led Marg down the slopes from Castelo de São Jorge towards Martim Moniz. It was only yesterday that Hector discovered the Curry Disneyland that is Rua do Benformoso, ten Curry Cafes along a two hundred metre backstreet. Food Garden Grill (Rua do Benformoso 115, 1100-083 Lisboa Portugal) was already the intended venue, Hector was having his favoured Lamb Karahi (€7.95).
As we entered Rua do Benformoso, there was a mass of people. On a lane leading up from Food Garden, a line of people in familiar attire. It had just gone 13.30, Friday prayers. For a moment I wondered if all the Curry Cafes would be closed for an hour, not so. We took a table in the near empty restaurant.
A young chap brought menus, they were laminated in a folder which just kept going. Eventually I found the page that would otherwise be the cover. There was much here I could order, but I would stick to my plan. The photo of the Paratha looked as if it could be spectacular, not available. I would take a chance on the Garlic and Coriander Naan (€1.95). As has become the norm in the past week – sem Pimentão – was the given instruction, the description of Lamb Karahi here did mention – Peppers.
Marg, still in snack mode, took the opperchancity of the presence of Vegetable Samosa (€2.50), more Salad! (€2.50) and Asian Tea (€1.20). A Fanta (€1.50), for me, completed the Order.
During our stay, the place filled up, some dining in, many just sitting waiting for Takeaway. There was a visible sense of community amongst our fellow customers, they knew each other. As the outsiders, our presence never felt less than comfortable. I have led Marg to many a backstreet location for Curry. Milano still lives strong in the memory, again, we were well looked after.
We amassed quite a spread, again, check the Salad.
Vegetable Samosa
The broad edges of the Samosae gave the appearance of the stuffing all being to one side. Marg held up a Samosa for inspection. The Potato-rich interior was prominent. Spice – wasn’t mentioned, so all must have been well here.
The Salad, superficially, resembled the – comedy – Salad served yesterday at Taste of Pakistan. However, beneath the crudely sliced Carrots, Cucumber and Tomatoes, lay grated versions of, well more of the same. Needless to say, the whole Green Chillies remained untouched.
The attraction of Asian Tea is beyond me. Milk with Tea, not for me. And it wasn’t anything like the Pink Delicacy served at Yadgar (Glasgow).
Anyway, Marg was having a fine time, with her – snack.
Garlic and Coriander Naan
How puffy is this? Risen, with burnt extremities, blisters, and a sprinkling of Herb, this Naan looked majestic. What’s more, it was not dripping in Garlic, Butter etc. The size was, well, – Hector size. I would manage every morsel. The Hector idyll? This could well be the Naan I have been describing, but not securing, in many posts over the last few months.
Lamb Karahi
The standard eight pieces of Meat, large and boneless, sat in a classic Shorva. This was Desi Curry, I could tell long before it hit the taste-buds. Time for an aside.
I have read a few reviews of Food Garden in the past twenty four hours, many mention – oily food. As I posted my photos live from Food Garden today, so the first two comments were – Oily. People simply don’t get it. The Oil can be stirred back in (when not totally in excess) and is a fundamental part of the Shorva-Masala. Remove too much Oil and the Masala loses its impact, I know, I have spoiled a couple of home-cooked creations by doing so. If one can’t handle this, order something else.
The first dip of the Naan revealed a killer Desi Shorva. We had Seasoning and a Peppery, Chilli blast. The back of the mouth instantly knew there was Curry coming its way. No Oil, no Flavour, here was the required intensity of Flavour. Mmmmm. Let’s dip more Bread in the wonderful Oily Shorva.
The Meat varied in quality from decidedly chewy, to almost Tender, not the best Lamb ever encountered. If chewing prolonged the eating then it prolonged the enjoyment of this Karahi. Furthermore, the Meat was decidedly a giver of Flavour, Cinnamon stood out in particular.
The Naan proved to be an excellent companion, the Garlic was understated and so did not distract. Was this the best Naan I’ve had this year, certainly a contender.
For this Karahi, it had to be Bread, though I am left to wonder how good the Vegetable Biryani (€5.50) would have been?
This Lamb Karahi and Naan lived up to expectation. No more Mainstream Curry Houses in Lisboa for Hector.
It’s worth mentioning the young chap who served us. Always, attentive, but he gave us space. He makes his first photo appearance bringing the Tea.
The Bill
€16.55 (£13.90) Card payment accepted.
The Aftermath
As I paid at the counter, so I presented the Calling Card, which hopefully will find its way to the boss. Permission to photograph the counter was granted as a matter of course.
Ten Curry Cafes on Rua do Benformoso, I would eat at Food Garden again, however, at least three venues have caught the eye and so will be visited before I ever come back here. Sadly, this is the final Curry of March 2022 in Lisboa. Even for Hector, Curry, seven times in eight days, is enough. It is also time Bier-Traveller.com was given some attention.
Menu extracts
