Içmeler – Taj Mahal – The Return

Our last day in what has been a truly relaxing week, not all spent by our magnificent pool at Mitos Apartments. Apart from the European Cup Final (sic), that’s the football season over. Glasgow Rangers at least did feature in the other, who would have thought? And they won a wee trophy yesterday, so life could be worse. Why did Aston Villa collapse losing three goals so quickly? I bet Stevie-who? was not a happy chap.

Happy Chap? Hector, as promised, returned to Taj Mahal (Içmeler, Kenan Evren Biv. No:27, 48720 Marmaris/Mugla, Türkiye) with a mission: Karahi without Capsicum – as Mein Host promised it could be served. Arriving at 20.30, we were instantly recognised as returning customers, and so graduated to a table inside, not balcony fodder this evening.

Two of the standard 0.2l bottles of Soda (17.50TL) were ordered. Elsewhere (7-8TL), these bottles offer good value, Taj Mahal have to boost their profits somehow.

There are two main waiters at Taj Mahal, both became involved in the – without Peppers – request. A photo on a well known and reliable website explained fully what a Bell Pepper is. I was told that they generally are not used in Turkey, too expensive. The Head Waiter brought out a plate of Chillies, Banana Chillies may be an Americanism, – Village Peppers – is used locally. These have been present in almost every meal we have had on this trip. They don’t give the unwelcome after-burps, nor do they add heat. I mentioned our small Green Chillies and was assured the British can’t handle them. Really?

Why should the limits of the Chicken Tikka Masala brigade prevail?

Hector had another card to play this evening. Using the translator on the trusty Oppo, I showed the waiter – çemen yaparagi.

Does your Chef have this Herb? You cannot make a Bradford-style Curry without it.

Not this evening.

No Methi, QED.

Karahi Lamb (197.50TL) – Asian style, Desi/Apna, was duly ordered. Marg would have her favourite Keema (Beef) Masala (182.50TL). A Garlic Naan (24.50TL) a Rothi (22.50TL) plus a Vegetable Pakora (67.50TL) would complete the Order.

Do you want your Starter at the same time?

Maybe they don’t understand what a Starter is. No.

Once again, Poppadoms were declined, so I still don’t know their status.

Vegetable Pakora

Three huge masses of stringy Vegetables in batter took us back to Karachi Darbar (Istanbul) which feels a long time ago. The Pakora was way too hot for Hector’s fingers, for once a fork would would have to be employed here. The same three Dips as before accompanied: Mango, Onion Chutney and Raita. Temperature, Spice and Seasoning, they might have looked alien, however, this weird Pakora tasted as good as anything serving in a West of Scotland Curry House. Fresher even. 

Onion and Potato were joined by the ubiquitous Big Chillies, a bizarre presentation, it works.

Having had two thirds of the Starter, the edge was taken off the appetite, risky.

The Mains arrived after a suitable period of recuperation.

I had gone against my norm by ordering the Garlic Naan. I had spotted the other night that it would not arrive dripping in Garlic, a Buttery Sheen was adequate. Less pale, than Thursday, and perhaps even puffier, this was again a worthy Naan and significantly better than those served in the Istanbul Curry Houses.

The Rothi, served whole, was of the Wholemeal variety. Bread for the Brits.

With all assembled, the waiter brought two more Complimentary Dishes: Chilli Panir (69.50TL) and Raita. No mention had been made of the review of Visit #1, so perhaps this is how all returning customers are treated? We now had more food than a Hector and Marg could manage.

Karahi Lamb

The concept of – foliage – has not reached these parts. Let’s acknowledge that there was some Coriander on top. The Oil was separating from the Masala, Hector would take care of that. As with Marg’s Balti on the previous visit, the Karahi looked, minimal, ordinary on arrival. After decanting, it looked closer to what I was expecting. However, the Chillies had been liberally added, less offensive than Bell Peppers, but here we had the other reason why the latter are eschewed – Ballast. Too many Chillies, far from being an – Interesting Vegetable. I should have stuck to my guns.

Chilli Panir

Yes, more Chillies with somewhat large cubes of Cheese. Too – Red – not natural. Highlight – The Curry-Heute Campaign – once again.

Raita

A substantial quantity, most would be wasted. This did not really fit in with the other contents of my plate. Marg marked it as having finely chopped Vegetables, and being – crunchy and fresh.

Time to eat.

The first dip of Naan into the Masala set the alarm bells ringing – Euro Curry!

As established on Visit #1, despite their claim at Taj Mahal, the Curry here does not taste like a Bradford Curry. The Masala has a definite quality which marks it way above the Mainstream, but without – çemen yaparagi – that is never going to be attained. Surely even boxes of Dried Methi Leaves are available?

Strangely, that first blast of Flavour dissipated, never to return. I put this down to the Paneer. The Cheese added a different dimension to the contents of my plate. Diversity – I constantly seek, Meat and Masala is rarely enough. The Paneer upped the Seasoning, so this critical parameter was addressed. There was a definite Sweetness from the Chilli Panir, and more Chillies than a Hector was going to eat. Between us, we ate the Cheese Cubes, much of the Chillies and Red Masala were set aside.

What looks like Feta has been served oft on our trip to Türkiye. The texture is different from that served in Hellas/Greece, soft, not granular. The Paneer at Taj Mahal was the opposite. One expects a more rubbery texture, this was decidedly – granular – on eating, a lot of chewing required, for Cheese. Still, thanks to Chef for providing this, the Karahi might not have impressed so much without this contrast.

The Meat in the Karahi Lamb was divine. Far from the Mainstream, the Lamb was no stranger to the Masala. The Texture, the Flavours, Hector was back where he wanted to be. The Masala may have had a hint of Yoghurt, this was a different Curry from Thursday’s Lahori Tawa. There was a definite sense of – British Curry – here. In the five minutes since I had started, the experience was transformed. In 1942, the Japanese lost three aircraft carriers in five minutes (guess what I’ve been reading by the pool?), and so here, the original alarm had given way to comfort eating.

The Karahi Lamb had Spice, Seasoning, the Tenderest of Meat and an authentic Masala. The Lahori Tawa Lamb was actually even better.

Keema (Beef) Masala

Topped with Coriander, this looked to be quite a plateful, a mass of Curry.

The suffix – Masala – made me wonder as to what would arrive. Keema should be served moist, not with a full Masala. I would describe this Keema as – wet and red, but not excessively so. There were no obvious Chillies here!

It was very finely ground mince with a mixture of red and green Chillies. (no escape) A good flavour and the use of the Wholemeal Roti enhanced the enjoyment, though the Roti was a bit heavy. A lot of meat, and I enjoyed stealing the Garlic Naan. The Mince was spicy, I cooled my mouth with the Raita.

Marg surprised herself by finishing the Keema, Hector left a mass of Chillies. I do go on and on about this, but there’s no need for this level of – Ballast.

Marg fancied a Coffee. The board listing the range was just within the limits of my visual acuity. Cappuccino for Marg, and for the first time in Curry-Heute, one of Hector’s all-time favourite drinks makes an appearance.

Turkish Coffee, or Cafe Botz, as it was called when I acquired a taste for this strong, muddy drink back in 1980 at Kibbutz Ashdot Ya’akov (Me’uhad) is an occasional treat. A lack of sleep usually follows.

No Sugar! – always raises an eyebrow.

Marg assures me her Cappuccino also impressed.

If the price of the Coffees were on the menu, I didn’t record it.

The Bill

524.50TL (£26.41, I get a better rate with Revolut) The Coffee was on-the-house also.

Didn’t we do well?

The Aftermath

Our appreciation was expressed. We were thanked for returning, and once again escorted downstairs. The Scotia Bar is part of the same complex. Who would go there?

After two visits and four different Dishes, I can report with confidence that the Curry served at Taj Mahal is way better then one could expect to find at a seaside resort, Turkish or otherwise. The British influence in Içmeler is at the root of this, but it did take a Chef from Bradford to realise the potential.

Bradford Curry? No, not without – Methi/Fenugreek.

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