On Saturday, Yvonne a regular diner at Chaakoo – Bombay Cafe in the city centre, informed me of a 40% January discount. Today, Hector took the opperchancity to make a first visit to their second outlet – West End – Chaakoo (61 Ruthven Ln, Glasgow G12 9BG).
Having looked online, the menu at both venues appears to be identical, Hector had Fish Curry in mind, a Dish not previously had at Chaakoo. One always hopes that it could be the best yet.
The Subway was off, in both directions, there was little choice other than to walk to Byres Rd. from Partick. Taking respite from the prolonged precipitation, and the numerous puddles in Ruthven Lane, I reached Chaakoo at 14.10. For the uninitiated, Ruthven Lane lies to the west side of Byres Road. Ashton Lane, to the east, has two other famous Curry Houses, I was surprised to find that the restaurant is upstairs, in this former mews.
Two couples occupied booths to my left on entry, a group of youths in the far corner to the right. They were loud, Hector went left. A well mannered chap was wiping tables, I was able to choose my own spot.
The paper menu was in situ, doubling as a table mat. Other than the – Bombay Small Plates – there was nothing on the menu to say that all plates are Tapas. Kerala Monkfish (£9.95) would either be excellent value for a main course, or surely way overpriced for – Tapas.
Mother India’s Cafe is my base level for comparison. Today’s Fish Curry would be compared to Mother India’s Cafe, whose Machi Massala (£5.80) is still held as being the best Fish Curry served in this city.
There was no sign of a 40% discount, so maybe just the city centre branch? Strange. On previous Chaakoo visits, there has been a deal combining Starter, plus one Tapas with Rice. I asked the chap who had just brought me a large carafe of Tap Water. A lunch menu was brought, Grill & Curry (£11.95), better value but no Fish Curry, not much in the way of Lamb either.
On previous Chaakoo visits, the model has been the Grill & Curry deal with an extra Dish from the Main Menu. Today I was not up for investing £21.90 for lunch.
Back in 2019, four years since my last Chaakoo visit then, Mags ordered impressive looking Bombay Potatoes (£5.95). With a thicker Masala, this was a departure from the otherwise Soupy Curry choices served at Chaakoo.
And so Kerala Monkfish and Bombay Potatoes was the Order, no Rice/Fries. The words – Tapas, Small Plates – had not still not been mentioned, however, the next couple to arrive were advised thus.
The new cheapo camera appears to take better photos of close up writing than its predecessor, however, it’s difficult to tell if/when a photo has actually been taken. I fear missing out recording a main course in future. Care will have to be taken. Maybe a new phone is the compromise?
Don’t Fear The Reaper – was playing in the background. Was it on repeat? It seemed to go on forever. This was the first time I had knowingly heard Blue Oyster Cult, I nearly bought – Secret Treaties – on its release, being intrigued by the cover. You too can now be pestered with ads for Blue Oyster Cult on finding the reason why.
The ultra polite waiter brought the Order, Tapas confirmed, it didn’t look much. At least I had avoided the ubiquitous blended, Soupy Masalas served previously. The two white bowls were hot to touch, careful, Hector.
Bombay Potatoes
Three Baby Potatoes sat in a mass of chopped Onions, also featuring Curry Leaves and Mustard Seeds. It’s good when these Seeds are identified, else one is left wondering, Mustard, Poppy, Nigella etc. There was a definite oil slick collecting at the bottom of the bowl, best avoided. I decanted to the side-plate provided.
Kerala Fish
The base Masala appeared almost identical to the above, this time creamier, Coconut Milk probably being the extra, plus Ginger and Garlic. The Onion pieces were possibly larger. Four pieces of rolled Monkfish were decanted, that I reached four triggered another comparison. The four pieces of Fish presented recently at Travancore (Aberdeen) caused Hector great consternation, was that all I’m getting? Four pieces of Monkfish, hardly filling. I had my Potatoes.
Baby Potatoes, fitting for Tapas, I would have to eke these out. The ratio of Potato to – Masala – for me, was not well judged. Too much of the latter. Masala, was this truly a Masala, was this Curry? The menu claimed so. Looking back to 2019, I remain convinced that the efficacy of the Masala was not in doubt. Today, I felt as if I had mostly – chopped Onions – not cooked down to form a mash. This was clearly deliberate, Chef’s decision.
The Spice Level was near the low end of the scale, but in time did build, slightly. There was some sense of Seasoning, but no great blast of Flavour. Unlike my favoured Curry Cafes where the Aloo has sat in the Masala for many hours, there was little/no impregnation here. Time for the Fish.
The Coconut Creaminess made this Dish even more mellow than its accompaniment. The Ginger did come through but remained faint. The Fish was well cooked, rubberiness avoided. Once more, Hector has to report a Fish Curry that did not have a pronounced sense of – Fishiness. Should I start to conclude that this is too much to ask? No way, I’m a Hector, and I’ll find my Fishy – Fish Curry.
With the Curry Leaves on both sides of my plate, I concluded that some must have been with the Kerala Monkfish also. I hoped for the telltale – smokiness – I associate with Curry Leaves and Coconut, not today.
Small Plates, the bowls were once too hot to touch, their contents were never more than – warm/hot, the food cooled rapidly. How had my Order been heated? Ding? Hector’s rule #1 in reheating Curry – never use a microwave.
I saw three people working in the kitchen, had they prepared my Order from scratch, was it shipped in from St. Vincent Street? Chains, here lies the basic issue. One cannot tell if all comes from a central kitchen, unless one actually knows, and for one Glasgow Chain, I do.
I ate on, the Fish and Potatoes gone, I was left with the almost cold, chopped Onions and little sense of enjoyment. Wet and bland – were my final notes. I was never going to be filled by this, a Rice or Bread would have been an obvious addition to my Order. Too late.
The Bill
£16.72 The menu had warned of an – Optional & Discretionary 10% service charge. This was also stated on The Bill. I prefer to choose my own degree of tip, however, I was happy to pay this, the front of house staff had been excellent.
The Aftermath
Calling Cards are typically issued on Visit #1, was this so? Why spoil the day of the chaps who had so ably served me? My issue was with what they had served. I had spotted that if one leaves a review in a certain medium, they come back quickly.
I asked a simple question. QED.
As for the 40% discount, Yvonne later confirmed this on her phone … but only if one books in advance, Monday to Wednesday throughout January. This information is not on their website, that I can see.
West End – Chaakoo is not for Hector. Irani Cafés – I thought I had laid the ghost of Persia to rest. The favoured Southside Curry Cafes provide authentic fayre, and full portions at prices comparable to that paid here for – Small Plates. For Tapas, Mother India’s Cafe wins hands down, and their Machi Massala tastes of – Fish!
2023 Menu
