Glasgow – Yadgar Kebab House – As The Shutters Rise

Not since early July last year has the Hector faced up to tackling the wonder that is Goshat Karahi as served at Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP). Since Lockdown ended, most visits to Yadgar have focused on the Daily Specials, the Vegetable ones in particular: Aloo Gobi, Aloo Gajar Mutter, with a Chapli Kebab or two accompanying. It’s about time we were back here to – do the kilo.

Today, Hector was the Lone Diner for much of the visit, though five more did arrive towards the end. Meanwhile a steady stream of Takeaway customers piled in, the phone rang every few minutes, more Orders.

The second busiest Kebab shop in … said the leader of the three chaps who eventually joined me. I did not hear the catchment area to which he was referring.

Hector managed to arrive at Yadgar bang on 14.00 just as Shafiq was opening the doors. The shutters went up, punctuality, reliability, this is what customers rely on. I have expressed my frustrations with another venue which no longer satisfies these criteria. Time to move on. Nearby Shahi Mahal is also worthy of further visits, Hector’s Curry Pound will have to travel the extra kilometre south of the river more often.

Knowing how long it would take to prepare, I placed my Order with Shafiq as we both moved away from the front door:

One portion of Goshat Karahi (£9.00), just a portion.

I know Shafiq’s – portions.

On-the-bone – was confirmed. He assured me he would get on with it. Forty minutes is typical for the preparation of Yadgar’s signature dish.

I took my seat, the staff drifted in, the first Takeaway customer arrived at 14.05. The waiter brought a menu at 14.13 and asked if I had ordered.

If there’s any Fish Pakora going, I’ll have some please whilst I wait.

A sound strategy, a Mango Rubicon was added. Only once in thirteen years have I secured Sparkling Water at Yadgar.

Naveed arrived just as the Fish Pakora was presented, it was 14.18.

Fish Pakora

Eight pieces, a whole Fish, by any other description. When Yadgar’s Fish Pakora is freshly made, it is something else.   In the past Naveed has brought me some knowing the pleasure that can be derived. Today’s was a reheat, not spectacular therefore, but still streets ahead of the rest.

The Spicy Batter shrouded the Scottish Haddock, a good sense of – fishiness – came across. The red Chilli Sauce had not been heated which tends to happen more in winter, the Spice Level was upped a bit more. Tasty, satisfying, a plateful, Hector, what have you done?

At 14.18 the plate was cleared, Naveed asked what I required with my Goshat Karahi. A single Chapatti (£0.70) would suffice. Another half hour should let the Fish digest, then I wouldn’t let myself down.

The waiter asked if I was ready for my main course at 14.31. I asked him to check that my Chapatti was underway, this earned another four minutes. He returned with a plateful of an elaborate Salad. Oh no! This I had to decline. Had I tackled any of this there would have been no chance of finishing whatever quantity of Curry arrived thereafter.

14.38, my precious. Shafiq had done well, especially given the stream of customers front of shop.

Who would need a second Chapatti? Behold, a huge, Wholemeal Flour based Chapatti, featuring one large risen blister. Light, thin, filling, around a half of this would do.

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Goshat Karahi

A classic Shafiq portion, he who once served me a Karahi with fifteen Lamb Chops. There’s no denying that Lockdown affected Hector’s eating patterns, today was a test, has recovery been fully attained?

Just the twenty pieces of Lamb, some on-the-bone. I’ve had smaller half kilos at other venues, let’s not go there. OK, the Hector is always spoiled at Yadgar.

The Ginger Strips and Coriander Toppings were modest in comparison to what lay beneath. Oil collected on the periphery of the Thick, Yadgar Masala. Tomato Seeds were clearly visible. Speculation: do they prepare the Karahi as Hector has learned to do of late? The secrets of Yadgar shall for ever remain so.

The Spice hit hard, yet I saw but one piece of sliced Green Chilli. The Masala was therefore the source. The Seasoning was well below the Hector idyll. Today, no tweaks, I was determined to secure a Goshat Karahi as soon as possible thus maintaining punctuality for the remains of the day.

The Meat was super-soft, Sucky Bones stared at me, go on!

It was fully three minutes before the recognisable and distinctive – Yadgar Taste – emerged. It was there, the lack of Seasoning was holding it back a bit. Since July I have been experiencing this root combination of Spices via the Vegetable Dishes and am ever impressed as to how they achieve it.

At the halfway point, a quick Meat count. What remained I’ve been served as a – portion. Fear not, I knew I would empty the plate.

The Meat, a giver of Spice and consequently Flavour. Few venues manage this, but Yadgar is a true source of – Desi Cuisine. With no telltale Whole Spices, just what is in this Masala?

Time to pay Naveed.

The Bill

£12.50        I looked at the machine, Naveed nodded – That’s enough.

The Aftermath

I informed Naveed that today’s was my first Goshat Karahi in a year.

I had to convince myself that I would eat it. With the Salad, I wouldn’t have.

It was 15.15 when I headed out into the sunlight. Passing Karahi Palace in the bus at 15.30, the shutters were up. Hector needs consistency.

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