A Happy New Year to all readers of Curry-Heute!
It’s January 6th, and Hector has been eating other cuisine since Hogmanay including bland North African, and Italian, way overpriced for what one receives. The festive season and Marg’s birthday have passed, we are not in Paris as was booked, but in Yorkshire; if it’s Thursday, it must be Harrogate.
Lunch was had at the world famous Bettys Tearoom, an extended birthday treat. The Fat Rascals may be their signature bun, however, they do not match a proper Scottish Fruit Scone with butter, jam and dare I say – cream.
It’s twenty five years since I set foot in Harrogate, then I was searching for a Rooster’s Taproom, no such thing back then. There is now, but Bier has moved on. There had to be Curry-Heute, for this Harrogate was a blank canvas. We’re not far from Bradford, the Curry Capital, but uncomfortably close to Leeds where Hector had his first, shockingly poor, Yorkshire Curry. The Man from Bradford would never forgive me if I had another Curry in L666s.
Harrogate, a very pukka town, has no Curry Cafes, only restaurants. Other sources suggest that Spice Culture may the most popular Curry House in Harrogate. Their menu is decidedly – Mainstream. More study revealed Shalimar (7-11 Cheltenham Parade, Harrogate HG1 1DD England) possibly the best chance of finding a proper – Desi Curry. 
On reaching the – Karahi – section of their menu, I was delighted to read the ingredients and note what was – not – included. Shalimar and Hector appeared to be talking the same language.
Then I saw the photo and description for their Special Karahi – Afghani (£11.90) with Lamb served on-the-bone. I also liked the box underneath, too few restaurants are willing to cook to order. If it doesn’t come out The Big Pot, then…
We arrived at Shalimar just on 19.00, the room to the left was remarkably busy, we were shown to the back wall of the room to the right. Business was doing well, diners were sufficiently spaced apart. Note the anomaly: no masks for customers in pubs or restaurants in England. The staff was comprised of four young chaps doing the lifting, and a more mature chap acting as Mein Host.
The menus were brought, a large bottle of Harrogate’s own Sparkling Water (£3.50) kicked things off.
Another young chap came to take the food order. Poppadoms were declined, if they wanted us to have them, Poppadoms and Dips would have already arrived, complimentary, of course. I established that – Peppers – were definitely not part of their Karahi. Onion Naan (£3.25) was something new, it had to be.
Marg decided on Kofte (£10.50) for a change, no Keema. Chappaties (£0.90) would accompany. One Chapatti would suffice, we’re definitely not in Bradford. In the final seconds, as the Order was being taken, I spotted Shab Daig (£11.90).
With Lamb, Kofte and Potato, this could prove to be a wonderful combination. Shab Daig? I looked this up during the wait, slow cooked Lamb, traditionally overnight, ironically in a big pot.
Marg commented upon the fact that our Curry had not just arrived, the wait was appropriate for authentic cuisine.
The Onion Naan was suitably large, oval, so one deduced not from a Tandoor? A bit peely wally, it would do the job. The Red (?) Onions had been sprinkled on top at the point of serving. A Coriander & Chilli Naan this was not. The Chapatti looked to be traditional at first sight, however an air pocket was revealed. Made from Wholemeal Flour, this was the classic scenario of when does a Chapatti start becoming a Roti? Marg confirms that it did go – crispy. A thin Roti?
Afghani Karahi
I knew in an instant that my research had paid off. This Karahi was the bees knees. Ginger Strips and Coriander on top made me feel at home. No way would Hector’s first Curry of 2022 be Meat and Soup, the Minimal Masala was perfect. Counting the Meat in the karahi was not possible, better to count the bones at the end. For the price being charged, this looked good value. Given the temperature of the Karahi, the Meat would have to wait.
Bradford Curry! – was my first utterance. In time this sense would subside, however, that certain flavour which makes a Bradford Curry so distinctive, was certainly present. I always put this down to Herbs, Methi in particular, but this was not mentioned in the description. The Spice was – sharp – enough to take note, not to the detriment of the overall flavour. The Seasoning was up to the required level, well pitched, no issues here. This was a Karahi to savour.
Closer examination of the Masala revealed an abundance of Tomato, and correspondingly more – red – than I would have expected from an Afghan Karahi. Salt/Namkeen/White Karahi, this was not, to be fair, it wasn’t described thus. The sliced Green Chillies were in keeping with the style.
No – Sucky Bones – the Lamb was firm and Tender, as one would associate with Lamb Chops. This was quality Meat. Only four bones appear in the final photo, again reflecting that the portion was certainly enough.
As is my method, I alternated between Naan & Masala and Naan & Lamb, Lamb alone when faced with Meat on-the-bone. This could have been a Karahi as served in one of my favourite Glasgow Curry Cafes. What higher accolade is there?
Shab Daig
With Ginger and Coriander Toppings also, I was keen to see how this differed from the above. The Texture of the Masala was decidedly thinner than the Karahi, no obvious Tomato either. Under the restaurant lights, it also looked to be more brown, but the photos did not capture this.
Meat, Kofta, Potato, I do not believe I have seen this combination anywhere else.
Quite a kick – was Marg’s not unexpected first remark. She had not asked for – mild – tonight, honour restored. One Meatball and plenty of Meat – was Marg’s stock take.
A piece of Potato, infused with Spices, crossed the table. Marg was keen for me to establish the difference. Indeed, this Curry was not just a dressed up variation as I had critically observed in Aberdoom at the end of last year.
I thoroughly enjoyed that – Marg revealed at the conclusion – a good kick on the first mouthful. Plenty of tender meat, and a meatball, added texture and flavour with the absorbent potato.
Indeed, a combination that had to work: Aloo Gosht Kofta. Hopefully we shall see this again.
Two young chaps checked on our progress, polite, never intrusive. The mature chap hadn’t showed at our table. Later, perhaps.
Marg was finished long before me, even allowing for her attempts at sending some of her Meat across the table. Having finished her Chapatti, she helped with the Naan. Somewhere less than a half of the Naan would remain.
The Bill
£31.45 No Extras – was printed beneath the Afghani Karahi, this puzzled. I had failed to notice that Spinach, Mushrooms, Okra or Cauliflower could have been added to the Karahi for an extra £1.00.
The Aftermath
I gave the Calling Card to the young chap who dealt with the payment.
Please give this to your boss.
We sat for a few minutes, nothing. I expected the mature chap, who was clearly front of house, to be over in a flash. Nope.
In time, – the boss – appeared, Umar, phone in hand, with a well known and reliable Curry Blog visible on the screen. He had taken the few minutes to look at Curry-Heute.com. This is what one always hopes for, it happens occasionally. Staff are often too busy or don’t appreciate the moment. Cue the opperchancity to talk – Curry. This is when Hector is in his element.
The efficacy of the Afghani Karahi was established. Umar listed the ingredients, no Red Chilli Powder, and no Peppers, he emphasised the simplicity of this Karahi. I mentioned that too many venues have no idea what this Dish is actually about: either stir fry, Meat & Capsicum, or at worst, both. He agreed that Peppers have no business being in a Karahi.
That each Dish is prepared when ordered was boasted, there is no Base Masala at Shalimar. Fresh ingredients, the best of ingredients, Umar was proud of the quality of his Lamb, no Mutton here. For Marg’s Shab Daig, he mentioned the slow cooking, a feature of this Curry which I had been researching earlier.
That I had presented my Calling Card at the end was appreciated. Hector is a long way from walking into a new venue and declaring his presence.
Ecce, Hector! – I doubt that is ever going to happen.
Talking Curry after a splendid meal, a perfect start to the new year. If I suggest we return to Harrogate, I doubt if Marg will protest. As for the Fat Rascals, we’ve done that.
Menu extracts
