Içmeler – Taj Mahal – Bradford Curry in Türkiye?

• Given the size of Içmeler, we couldn’t help but pass Taj Mahal (Içmeler, Kenan Evren Biv. No:27, 48720 Marmaris/Mugla, Türkiye) on our first night. The chap out front was insistent that the big, bold claim on their menu was accurate. If I wasn’t convinced, I wouldn’t have to pay. He had just thrown down the goblet (sic). We promised to return, Masala would be checked out first.

There was the thought about visiting the Taj Mahal mother shop in Marmaris yesterday before a certain football match, alas, we were caught up in the atmosphere. For the record, my first Donner Kebap of the trip was last night.

We arrived at Taj Mahal after 18.00 and were recognised at once. In Içmeler the staff at every shop, bar, restaurant, gets to know the visitors quickly, such is the size of this tranquil annexe to Marmaris. We were led upstairs and given a table on the balcony, as were the next diners to arrive. Window dressing.

I started my spiel but then realised the Drinks waiter was not clued in. Being on holiday: a Tuborg (50TL) for Hector and a Soda (17.50TL) for Marg was permitted.

The actual waiter then got all barrels. I was making it clear that I know Bradford Curry, therefore their claims would be scrutinised. Three Dishes come under the Bradford banner: Lahori Tawa, Karahi and Kashmiri Balti, each 197.50TL in Lamb. The Karahi included the dreaded Capsicum in its description, best to avoid this. So, Lahori Tawa for Hector, and Kashmiri Balti for Marg. I made the point of asking for mine in the Asian Style, Desi, Apna, the lot. Marg held back.

To accompany, Pilav Rice (52.50TL) and a Fresh Nan Bread (24.50TL). Poppadoms were declined, however, we did order Sheek Kebab (80.00TL) to share as a Starter. How – Seekh – has become – Sheek – who knows, I’ll let others worry about the spelling of  – Kebap.

The Seekh Kebap was accompanied by three Dips. Finally, the real ones, no more Ketchup. Raita, Mango Chutney and Onion Chutney, the classics.

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Sheek Kebab

I wonder if there is an internationally agreed length for a Seekh Kebap? These were just like home. Chicken of course, the Seasoning hit the palate, then the Spice kicked in. This was the most Seasoned Meat I had been served in any Turkish Curry House to date. However, the Curry-Heute adage came into play: if the Starters are this good, the Mains tend not to be. The Seekh and Salad were devoured, excellent.

The place was filling up, a Thursday night. The tables inside could well have been reserved. All the customers I could hear were British. Every Masala that I spotted was brown, only the Tandoori Dishes had the unnatural – red. Hopes were certainly raised.

The food was assembled on the table. The Naan was hung, wonderful, it also saves space. A bit pale perhaps, that would be the only criticism. The blisters were in the process of forming when it had been removed from the flame. Not too doughy for Marg, a sufficient girth for Hector. A few Seeds were embedded. The best Bread had to date in a Turkish Curry House.

The Rice portion was decidedly small. Marg wouldn’t be having much, if my Tawa was up to scratch, it could be surplus to requirements anyway. There was a Clove or two in there, with some Tarka on top. Decent Rice.

Lahori Tawa – Lamb

Feast your eyes!

Imagine how the Hector felt when this was set on the table. The flat Tawa allowed the full glory of the Tomato-rich Masala to be appreciated. The Coriander Topping also had the mysterious Dry Herb look, was some of this Methi? Calm, Hector.

The Lamb was easily into double figures, the large pieces of cooked Tomato were therefore certainly more than – Ballast. Tiny pieces of Red and Green were strewn through the Masala. Capsicum possibly, however, the large Banana Peppers we have been eating in Turkey are the long, chunky ones, not Bell Peppers.

The photographic ritual took an unexpected turn, a chap came over and took ours … for use in another medium.

The all so important first dip of Naan into the Masala revealed a huge Spice hit, not in the sense of heat, but intensity of Flavour. Whilst the Istanbul Curry Houses impressed, this was full on, no prisoners being taken. The Seasoning was not noticeable per se, it must have been there, these Flavours could not have been achieved otherwise.

The Oil separated from the Masala, I stirred it back in, I was not going to miss anything here. The Meat was majestic, beautifully soft, and giving Flavour to the Curry, no parasitical late add-ons here.

The chap whom I took to be the Head Waiter was over to check:

We have taste – I assured him.

This was an authentic Punjabi-style Curry, that which Hector holds in the highest esteem. The Meat and Masala worked in harmony. The Tomatoes added Diversity. The Flavours were certainly distinctive, aggressive even, a treat in this far off land. However, Bradford? Not. For that one needs much more Methi/Fenugreek.

Kashmiri Balti – Lamb

Again, the same Coriander Topping, the Oil was already collecting around the edges of the karahi. The Balti was not as – red – as the flash photography suggests. The Masala oozed quality. One has come to recognise when a Masala is better than the Mainstream.

There appeared to be a smaller quantity of Curry compared to the Tawa, but these karahi are deceptive. Marg verified her Meat count into double figures as she decanted to accommodate some Rice.

A Soupçon of the Masala crossed the table. This had a much more mellow Flavour compared to the Tawa, it had to. I would happily have had this Curry.

Marg’s verdict:

A wonderful Curry, eaten at the right time of the day. Full of Flavour, with tender lamb, and a rich sauce mixed well with the Pilau Rice. I enjoyed the hanging Naan, and used it to scrape out the dish.

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Needless to say, we ate the lot apart from the top of the substantial Naan. Another – tick – for the Naan.

The Bill

619.50TL (£31.06)   Maybe a bit more than Bradford Curry prices.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was issued to the chap who dealt with the payment. We followed him downstairs to where Mein Host stood at his dais. Our enjoyment was expressed. He told of the owner, a Bradford Chef, who came over some twenty years ago.

Now to ask the big question:

Can you do me a Lamb Karahi without Peppers?

The answer was in the affirmative.

We’ll be back on Sunday.

(The day after another football match.)

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