A Wednesday afternoon, the Glasgow Underground is operational once more, cue a visit to the Khyber Pass Restaurant (221 St. Andrews Road, Glasgow, G41 1PD), a five minute walk from Shields Rd. Subway Station. Today is the day that Hector puts his system to the test after a couple of weeks of being below par. Curry cures all.
I had phoned earlier to ensure that the venue was indeed open all afternoon. Hector’s preferred daily eating slot is 15.00, amazing how many places are closed at this time. As I entered, Abdul – Mein Host – was in heated discussion with a group of Chaps, all in formal attire. They were making their departure, it appeared. As I took my seat I hoped the Lamb Karahi would be as hot as the conversation. One of the group stayed to eat, two other Diners sat behind me, nobody was served until all was calm.
Abdul came from behind the counter, hands were shaken, this was only our third encounter. Curryspondent John put it to me after my first visit here that Abdul was once of the short lived Afghan Village on Pollokshaws Road. Little did I realise that I had the photographic evidence to establish this all along.
A Half Kilo of Lamb Karahi (£12.00) on-the-bone, it only comes that way, would be accompanied by a Naan (£0.50). Last time I had an Excellent Keema Naan to see if they passed The Test, they did. This time it had to be a Plain Naan, if only to report that the cost is indeed 50p.
Photographs of the interior were not possible last visit as the Khyber Pass was stowed. Today I managed some of varying quality.
A Modest Salad and Raita were placed before me after a few minutes, plus a Bottle of Still Water, I had expected the Jug of Tap Water. No Sparkling Water was available. No sooner had the moment been recorded when the Karahi and Bread were placed on the table.
This was smart Service, too quick. One cannot prepare a Proper Karahi in this time, but if this is their Main Dish on offer then they must have some … in The Pot?
Hector likes to watch the Oil collect on the sides of the Karahi as the Meat and Masala settle, today’s offering had too much Oil from the outset. At the New Karahi Palace the Bread and Karahi are usually too hot to touch on arrival, neither were particularly Hot here.
The Naan was a Good Size, different from that served in Indian/Pakistani Restaurants. I do not know if it was the perforations which made the difference, however, this Bread was more in the style of Bread served in the Middle East; not far from from a wonderful Israeli Pitta. Dipping the Bread in the Oil, as is my custom, did not give the anticipated – Wow. In fact, this was quite Unpleasant. The Oil did not have the Richness of Flavour of a Punjabi Karahi. This brought firmly to mind the difference between Afghan Cuisine and Punjabi. Only Salt and Pepper had been used, no Red Spices. Tomato Seeds were visible in the Masala, presumably no Onions had been used either. The Masala-Mash, if indeed this term was appropriate was more Pulped Meat than a Sauce. I was not convinced I had been given the best they could offer.
The Lamb counted sixteen pieces, mostly on-the-bone. So Tender, no complaints here, one could taste – The Lamb. The tip of my tongue was the assurance that the Dish was indeed Spicy. As I approached the bottom of the Karahi, so I had more Oil than anyone would wish, off-putting. Everything was now Cool, less pleasant.
Today was not a Good Day at the Khyber Pass. A very Simple Dish, very difficult to create, I have tried.
The Bill
£12.50. One cannot have any issues with the price.
The Aftermath
Abdul was finishing what looked like a Rice Pudding as I approached the counter. He offered me Dessert.
I am Savoury, not Sweet.
Abdul asked how I had enjoyed my Food. I had to tell him. Had it been served – Steaming Hot – it would have been so much better. The Oil?
I had Abdul confirm that no Onions had been used. He was proud to tell me – Salt and Pepper, no Spice.
Namkeen – I said.
He then offered to make me a Namkeen – Shoulder of Lamb.
Abdul served his best Namkeen Karahi during Eid. Whilst his Customers enjoyed it, they were not happy at having to pay more for the better Quality of Lamb.
Abdul had read the review of my first visit to Khyber Pass, he thanked me. He will hopefully take on board what is written here. Next time I will have two photos and point to the Magnificent Karahi I was served last time. Very Hot, and no Oil.
Abdul confirmed that the Khyber Pass Restaurant is basically open from Noon until 22.00 seven days a week. One should not go before 14.30 on a Friday as the Staff will be at prayers.
I shall be back of course, but presently do not feel in any rush. Saturday is Staggs Day, the Curryspondents know what follows.
And so we walked along to Naaz which advertised a 30% Discount on Sunday and Monday, ah well. The place was busy, Hector was half expecting the – Do you have a reservation? We were taken through to the rear and down some stairs. A secluded table for five was allocated to us, a very good locus.
The stairs were adjacent to our table. We were amused by the fact the Waiters pushed all the Meals on a trolley to the top of the stairs and then had to lift the entire caboodle. I suppose Curry is not heavy.
Rajastani Gosht – 
The Chicken Malaya was Yellow, Korma-esque, not for The Hector. This was totally adequate for someone who finds themselves in a Curry House because one Curry in a three night excursion in this Company is expected.
Marg grimaced, Onion Ballast was to the fore. Well, what did she expect? Years ago, Marg used to order Dopiaza then wonder why she ended up with an Onion surplus. In effect, Mainstream Curry Houses are serving Dopiza in a Karahi and passing it of as such. We both know what Karahi is, this was not. Why Tikka Lamb?
Hector decanted the Vegetable Pilau, the Portion was Large but not Excessive. Potato, Green Beans, Peas and Cabbage were the Interesting Vegetables. Mission accomplished, when the Rogan Josh was poured over, I would have the perfect Combination of Masala and Solids, Varied.
The Masala was the Standard Indian Purée, there was a Slight Sweetness, but not such that enjoyment was impaired. I would not regard it as particularly – Thick. As Graeme had noted, the Lamb was indeed Tender. Hector’s Meat Tally was into double figures, no Ballast here, the Tomato was not to Excess. The Masala was Well-seasoned, the Kick was Modest, then… as I ate on, so the Spice Level increased. What cannot be forgiven was the Lack of Fenugreek or Fresh Coriander. One cannot advertise a Herb-rich Curry and serve this. Ulverston’s Naaz Rogan Josh was as Mainstream as Mainstream Curry could be. It was Curry, and as I have written many times, I like Curry. This Curry should have been better.
A Medium used by the Band confirmed the current line-up as: Christian Vander (drums/vocals), Stella Vander (vocals), Isabelle Feuillebois (vocals), Hervé Aknin (vocals), Staiïss Ësslëhnt (guitar), Jérome Martineau-Ricotti (keyboard), Benoît Alziary (vibraphone), Philippe Bussonet (bass).
The Musik of Magma is demanding. I referred to the style above, tonight was relentless, endless. The first – Piece – lasted forty minutes, an ever changing set of musical motifs and time signatures. It is always a pleasure to hear Drums – played. The Bass player was unforgiving, as good as any I have ever seen/heard and Hector did see Jaco Pastorius five times. The vocals, the lyrics, as percussive as the Musik. That nothing was intelligible was irrelevant to this listener, I do not listen to words, they are a distraction. Only rarely were there guitar breaks. The Vibraphone player did have extended spots, as visually entertaining as they were pleasant to listen to. At other times his playing was lost in the mix. The keyboard player could have saved energy for one ten minute sequence by employing Digital Delay as the vocalists did on occasion. This was Minimalism.
Capsicum inevitably would have spoiled the Lamb Karahi for The Hector. Tomatoes had also been cooked in, that I do like. The Lamb Karahi did look Splendid. Why did I not order this? A piece of Lamb came my way, – Oh yes!
s – Wow – now it’s getting hotter for me.
Thick with Herb, there was no collection of Oil on the side of the plate. The Methi Blast was there. The Seasoning and Spice Level were commensurate with Total Enjoyment. It was a Pleasure to taste Scottish Lamb after my recent sojourn. I did not establish the ratio of Meat to Potato, I had more than enough Solids to fill. The appetite is not fully restored. 
Mein Host sat down to eat, I had to inspect – The Staff Curry. Keema Rice topped with Yoghurt. 
Severinstrasse, 
On display was a tray of Lamb marinating in Spice, a perfect welcome.
Most of the Veg is Chickpea, with Spinach, of course – remarked Dr. Stan.
The Potatoes are a bit on the large side – said Steve. This was his only criticism. Fancy having to cut a Potato?
Steve’s Garlik Naan looked Dry to me which is also what photos from my previous visits show. He had eschewed the advice for Paratha. I had ordered two knowing I could hardly eat a whole. They were for sharing. Dr. Stan was impressed by the Softness and Flakiness. Charged at €2.00, these were very well prepared and good value. Paratha should be on the Menu.
The top of Hector’s Lamm Vindaloo had Fresh Coriander and Dry Methi, exactly how I like to see my Curry presented. The Redness was a disappointment, there is no need for this. The Masala was also Thinner and more Plentiful than hoped for. There was a Big Kick, the Seasoning seemed Appropriate. Light Masses protruded through the Puréed Masala, Chicken? For the briefest of moments I wondered. It was the Potato, Large Pieces as Steve had noted. The number of Solids on my plate was well into double figures, I did not note the ratio of Meat to Potato, I was too busy enjoying the Flavours.
The Kick is Excellent – I declared to my Fellow Diners.
This was when Farhad introduced formally himself. You have a Blog? – he asked rhetorically. He too has plans for a Blog, presumably not about Curry since he has much to learn. He is from Bangladesh, Farhad means – Happiness. Don’t they have Curry in Bangladesh?
Hector, Jonathan, Mags, and Dr. Stan alighted from the Boat at Bernkastel just after 13.00. After a quick look at the sights it was time for Lunch at Taj Mahal (Hebegasse 1, 54470 Bernkastel-Kues, Deutschland). There was a problem, Hector’s appetite was Zero, a combination of a bug not fully shaken off and the overindulgence of the last few days. For months Jonathan and Hector have looked forward to the Tandoori Mix (€16.50) which impressed so much last year. In effect, The Hector never planned to have Curry-Heute, Fish Pakora Amritsari (€4.50) was not what I had in mind. I should be able to force down a Starter.
Four flat pieces of Fish stared up from the plate accompanied by a Garnish which would remain untouched. This was an Appropriate Portion, though one cannot help compare this Portion with that given on my 
One always worries, this Dish can be horrendous in Europe, and in many UK venues for that matter. This was the first Dish I had in these premises 
Mags started slowly but warmed to what lay before her. The Naan proved to be too much for Mags who had taken her share of the sensible portion of accompanying Rice.
I had put it to Dr. Stan that his Masala did not appear to be too different to that in the Karahi, he agreed. Neither of use were sure why this was a – Bhuna.
This is one of the most joyous spectacles ever encountered. Piled high, no Higher, on a Sizzling Metal Platter came Chicken, Lamb and Prawns topped with Lemon and Onion and even more Onion and Tomato beneath the Meat. Not Curry, but Stunning Indian Cuisine.
With an enforced change of train between Düsseldorf and 
The Pakora was a Hoot. Strips of who knows what in Batter. Something Green – was my first observation. Broccoli was suggested, Onion too, perhaps Potato. The Raita was Thicker than the Norm, Tasty. This was but a Soupçon, hardly Echtes Pakora.
Strips of Beef and Onion lay in the Thinnest of Masalas – Shorva. The Masala disappeared into the Rice changing its colour. That was all the Masala was capable of.
The 0.2l Bottle of Sparkling Water was a bit of a disappointment, in this heat one needed to take on Bunkers. I had no clue as to the cost of this tiny bottle, better safe than sorry.
The Seasoning hit home first, the Salt level was definitely in one’s face. The Spice Level was at the Mild end of the Spectrum, I hadn’t specified – Scharf, so I cannot complain. The Lamb was Tender and tasted of Lamb. A not so Spicy Lamb Stew – flashed through Hector’s mind as the note-taking continued. However, is this not the definition of – Curry?
There was a very distinctive and powerful Flavour whose source I could not fathom. Assuming an Onion and Tomato base to the Masala, this was a blend which was a standout. 
Given there was enough Rice for two, I concluded that there was probably enough Bhuna Gosht for two. Supposing one came to Tandoori and ordered a Starter? 
Hector knew one thing for certain today as he headed to Musselburgh to celebrate Neil’s Birthday/Retiral do – there would be no Curry-Heute. Whatever the source of the stomach bug, Hector has been out of commission since the small hours of Tuesday.
Qaiser was at the dark doorway as I arrived – what has happened to the lights?
On entering, John noticed that the Price Boards had been stripped. 
Extra salt, extra methi – said Qaiser as he placed the Karahis on the table.
Hector spotted the Masala was even Thicker and Darker than the normal – Thick, the Masala was also more plentiful. It was John who spotted that the Chops had been cooked in the Tandoor, the skewer hole was the giveaway.
The engravings on the windows of 
The Mixed Vegetable Karahi (£6.95) has been enjoyed before, the usual exclusion had to be made.
The Waiter brought the Complimentary Poppadom and Dips, Spicy Onions, Mmmm, my first in a while.
Potatoes, Cauliflower, Tomatoes, Green Beans, Fresh Coriander, Ginger Strips and Okra! Who needs Lamb? Half of the Rice was spooned on to the Plate, there was enough for two to share. Again half of the Karahi contents were spread across the Rice, a Huge Meal in prospect. The Individual Vegetables were perfectly cooked. As ever, the Masala was at the absolute Minimum, the Spice was there, the Seasoning a Tad under, still, with the Variety of Textures, a Great Curry.
At the conclusion there was not a drop of oil on the base of the Karahi, just a shiny Residue, The Healthy Option.
We found a parking place some fifty metres beyond the venue, Marg remembered to check the parking meters. Free after 20.00, only in Aberdoom. On entering, a large group occupied the left seating area. All the tables down the right of the room were occupied bar one which was being cleared; this was the busiest we have seen 
Another Chap brought the Curry, the Keema impressed immediately, no sign of unnecessary Masala. The Methi Gosht had a suitably Thick Masala, I had to count the Meat – 6 pieces. I did raise this by one later, The Standard Portion. Marg had no such issues, her metal bowl had a Very Decent Portion.
The Methi Gosht was Well-seasoned, extra Green Chillies had been added so this was far from Bland. The Herb content was visible throughout the Masala. I was not getting a huge Methi Blast until…
I had to help Marg, the Potatoes came my way. Hector now had his Interesting Vegetable, the Methi Gosht was greatly improved. Although the Aloo had no taste other than Potato, I did start to sense the Herbs more clearly. This made a Good Methi Gosht – Very Good. But still no – Wow.
The Chef and his Assistant (Mein Host’s Brother) took a table in the centre of the room. The Chef’s Curry was on the table, I had to ask. Chicken Karahi. Again I had to ask, they never add Capsicum. The Masala was more copious than I would prefer, but far from the