Hector is in Glasgow for but a few hours between the UK part of what we shall call Marg’s Summer Vacation and the Continental Leg. Two weeks after a visit to the Trongate Branch of Charcoals, the Cafe, it was deemed to be time to revisit the Mother-ship: Charcoals Indian Restaurant (26A Renfield St, Glasgow, G2 1LU).
The Pre-Theatre Menu (£9.95) impressed at the Cafe, the Jhatpat – cooked with green herbs, black pepper & cheese – this is something special! – caught the eye too late. Today it was time to order the Lamb Jhatpat, £1.00 extra for the privilege of ordering Lamb.
Entering at 15.15, the Afternoon Manager consulted his booking sheet, I was shown to one of the two window tables, each seating four. Moments later a Couple entered, the ritual was repeated, this time the Customers were advised that their table would need to be vacated by a quoted time. Charcoals does good business late afternoon and early evening, booking is worth a consideration. Again I ask why so few venues stay open all afternoon especially on a Saturday.
A different Waiter took the Drinks Order, the Sparkling Water as ever, the Preferred Choice.
The Afternoon Manager returned to take the Food Order:
Lahore Fish Pakora, then Lamb Jhatpat with Rice.
Medium, Spicy? Spicy.
Boiled or Fried? Fried.
Since the birth of Curry-Heute, few Set Menus have been ordered, however, I know from many years of Curry Eating that one cannot always expect Tweaks to be offered. You take what you get, not at Charcoals.
The Lahore Fish Pakora came in three Long Pieces. I had received much more at Charcoals Cafe, indeed the Pakora was the standout part of that visit. There was visibly less Fresh Coriander in the Batter today, the Seasoning was – Under -, not so impressive. The Accompanying Salad at Trongate was also significant, here was indeed a Modest Salad.
Lahore Fish Pakora
Charcoals Indian Restaurant Charcoals Cafe
Keep Calm and Curry On…
The Rice looked Delightful, a Brown Hue, Cardamoms revealing themselves on decanting, more than just – Rice. The Lamb Jhatpat initially looked Stunning, the much sought after Minimal and Thick Masala with the Solids protruding. But….
There was more than Meat, Noooooooo……
Not only Green Capsicum, but Red too. Not just the Offending Ballast, but Loads of it.
I have glanced through my previous reviews of Curry at Charcoals, Peppers have never been an issue. The Jaipuri is the only Dish I can see on their Menu which even mentions Peppers. What had happened here? There was nothing for it, a Pile had to be made on the side of the plate. There was so much of it I could not find every piece before it had sneaked its way into Hector’s Mouth. I know I go on about this, this Ballast is not an Asian Vegetable, I was appalled to find Chefs in India using it on occasion, thankfully this was rare. I have had discussions with all who wish to talk – Curry, Capsicum should not be included. The Curry-Heute Campaign shall continue, ad nauseum.
Hector likes Capsicum, finely cut in Stir Fries, fine. Apart from being Ballast, in Curry it repeats long afterwards. Not the pleasure of – what a fine Curry, the nastiness of Pepper Burps, yeuch.
Worse still, the Ballast means less Meat. There was a sufficiency of Fibrous – Beef-like – Tender Lamb. Despite the fact that the Lamb appeared to have come from – The Pot – directly, giving nothing to the Dish, the Dish had potential. The Cheese had been added at the point of serving I deduced. It had melted, therefore adding a Gloopy Consistency first found in a Makhani in the original Akash (Helensburgh).
Still the Pile of Capsicum grew. The waiter came over to check my progress.
The Menu didn’t say Capsicum would be in the Dish.
You don’t like Capsicum?
Capsicum should never be in Curry.
As I finished my meal, the Waiter approached with an apologetic smile – Next time no Capsicum.
Dear Restaurateurs across The Planet, there should be no – next time.
Something special? Not today.
The Bill
£12.45 – £1.00 cheaper than Charcoals Cafe, a more sensible price for the Sparkling Water?
The Aftermath
Departure time was 15.15, a quick turnaround.
On a Favourite Social Medium people who saw, were appalled at the Pile of Capsicum.
I finally have a photo of what I do NOT want.
Other matters had to be attended to before the Hector was allowed to have Curry-Heute. A train journey to Bardon Mill was selected as the starting point for our day walk along Hadrian’s Wall. The Tourist Brochure/Map has no scale, no north point, and the map symbols do not match those on the key. 
Mein Host had greeted us at the door and escorted us through to the Tardis-like interior. We were shown to a corner alcove, – much sought after – we were assured. The Menu was incidental. I had already described the (Lamb) Karahi (£9.25) to Marg, I would have the Lamb Methi (£8.95).
Mein Host had to be told that I had chosen this venue because Methi was prominent on the Menu. He took the time to tell us that he is a trained Chef. Prince Harry and Nick Faldo have dined at Saathi, now they can add – Hector – to their list. A Chapati (£1.25) and a Methi Naan (£2.50) completed the Order. No Starters, I suppose we could share, but we both know that the Curry suffers thereafter.
Marg’s Lamb Karahi arrived first – Wow! How many venues present Stir Fry and passed it off as Karahi? This Lamb Karahi looked the real deal. 
It’s the best Lamb Karahi I’ve had for a while – Marg does not order Lamb Karahi that often, I suspect she did so as I had planted the seed, she knew I could then review two of my Favourite dishes at one sitting. One Large Green Chilli is all that was left, the Tender Lamb and all of the Minimal Masala had gone. Marg was hungry, amazing what a four hour walk can do for the appetite. 
The Lamb Methi was presented atop an elaborate candle-lit heater, this too looked menacingly wonderful. The Masala was seriously Thick. The boundary between Masala with copious Methi and Saag/Palak had not been crossed. I had to decant, no way was I touching the red hot irons.
Is it too early to ask? – Mein Host was back.
The First Couple were presented with a Substantial Starter which they must have devoured in great haste, before I knew it, their Mains had arrived. I was kept amused by the lights in the photo on the opposite wall periodically changing. My view of the Bright, Spacious premises was through the mirror which ran the full length of the wall. No Starters? Enquired the other Waiter as he removed the surplus cutlery.
The Bhuna Masala Hansh was worryingly – Red – not more Food Colouring? The Masala was suitably Thick, the Quantity made Rice the correct accompaniment. As the pieces of Duck were decanted, I counted Six, not many I thought. As I addressed the Duck I realised that two pieces at least would require halving. There was enough meat, just. Perhaps the statement above about not requiring a Starter was inappropriate, anyway, not approaching London Portions.
The Spice Level was not a challenge, I had not asked for – Spicy. The Seasoning seemed – under – to begin with, as I progressed so more and more Flavour emerged from the Melange, the level of Seasoning was commendable. The Spring Onion Topping gave the Masala a welcomed – Crunch. I appear to have been writing this with increasing regularity of late. Are Spring Onions replacing Ginger Strips? Cybies may be in season, cheaper… far easier to prepare.
My eyes were still feasting across the table. I had tried some of Marg’s Masala earlier, the same Gritty, earthy Texture that my Duck Dish possessed, though Marg’s was definitely – Sweeter. It was time for me to try the remaining Lamb Chop. One bite… No! Sorry, this does not work after what I have just eaten, too much of a Conflict of Flavour.
Walking from the the Travelodge along Gilesegate and then Claypath, we passed The Capital and the Rajpooth Tandoori, Hector’s objective was the – intimate and family run – Shaheens just outside the Castle. It is closed on a Sunday I discovered, Tuesday Lunchtime may be my only opperchancity now.
We were shown to a table for two at the far end where the seating area narrows. Marg had all the view, counted fourteen fellow diners and estimated the place to be a third full.
The Menu had the Mainstream Array of Curry one expects with a section on Balti also, the latter were a Pound or so dearer for no apparent reason. We both reached the Fish Curry list, at £10.95 for each of our choices, better value. Again, I never understand why Fish Curry can be more expensive than Meat.
On spotting the Karai Ayre (£10.95) – Fillet of Ayre cooked in the karai with green chilli, fresh ginger, garlic, tomatoes, onion and capsicum – it had to be. How many Curry Houses attempt to serve a Fish Karahi? However, the Mainstream was anticipated, no Desi here.
The Karai Ayre was delightfully Pale, reminiscent of the Excellent Machi Masala served at Glasgow’s 
The Macher Molee was Red, very Red. Food Colouring to the fore, and violating one of the key elements of 
Ayre, or Ayer, is Catfish I have now established. There was a slight Sweetness from the Fish as Sources suggest one can expect. It is good to find – Fish – identified, and not just classified as – Masala Fish. The Kick from the Masala was Modest, when the Fresh Green Chillies were bitten into, Gosh! The Curry was lacking in Seasoning, which should not happen with Fish, Freshwater Catfish, is there any other kind? The Quantity of Ayre was Sufficient, again I have been to too many establishments which overcharge for Fish then skimp on the Portion. Despite the Onion Overdose, I had no regrets ordering this, until…
Kenny is on holiday, his long Summer Holiday, and so is free in the daytime pro tem. He proposed a Curry Rendezvous, I proposed a new venue.
I phoned on my way into town and discussed our options. The Handi Gosht is sold in two quantities: £10.99 for a Regular Portion, £16.99 for Large. This is a system I endorse whenever it is encountered.
Whoever was on the other end of the phone convinced me that a Large Portion would be enough for two to share. We are used to sharing a Kilo of Lamb on-the-bone, just how large – Large – would be… no weight was mentioned. The phone-call was otherwise very precise, the portion size, Lamb, on-the-bone, Spicier than Medium, 16.00.
I suggested we have Mixed Vegetable Curry (£6.50) to accompany. This should lead to – The Excess – we are used to. I particularly enjoyed the Mixed Vegetables I had on my 
The Portion of Spiced Onions was quite Modest.
The Large Handi Gosht had more than enough Tender Lamb to share. The Masala was the Thick Mash that only the Very Best of venues can serve. The Vegetable Oil was collecting around the edges of the Karahi, can’t wait to dip.
The Mixed Vegetable Curry was served on a Plate, not a Karahi as before, a clearly Different Masala. The two Chapattis were served in a basket, Normal Chapattis, – Floury – is how Marg now describes them.
The Mixed Vegetable Curry simply did not Compete or really Complement. Potatoes, Carrots, Aubergine, Courgette and possibly Turnip all featured. The Aubergine was a Mush which gave the entire Dish the sense of being Overcooked. Aniseed was a Flavour encountered momentarily. The Spice Level was equal to the Handi, the Seasoning decidedly less. The lack of Seasoning and the too Soft Vegetables tempered the impact. The Mixed Vegetable Curry was Excellent when 
Marg was reminded that she enjoyed the Bhuna Gosht (£11.95) 
The Bhuna Gosht is what impressed so much on 
At Ambal’s the Masala is Seriously Thick and Minimal, as Dry a Curry as The Hector would hope for. Both Marg and Sandy considered their Bhuna Gosht to be – Too Dry. Unbelievable, we all have our preferences, for me – this is as good as it gets.
The Chicken Tikka Masala did not resemble the Tomato Soup Monstrosity that is served in the majority of establishments. This had a Proper Masala. Criss-crossed with what looked like Cream, this was a Worthy Curry. Tracey was impressed by – the Meaty Sauce. Less mass produced – was her second contribution. One wonders if people are disappointed when they are not presented with Cream of Tomato Soup? Other Restaurants should take note, Ambal’s have set a new Standard in Chicken Tikka Masala.
The others were given a Dinner Plate before their Mains, Hector was given a spoon! Surely I was not about to receive – Soup? The Karaikudi Yera Thokku was presented in a Large Soup Plate, fortunately the Masala was suitably Thick. Three Prawns for £15.95? I dug out a fourth, much better. Aye right. This was not what I had seen on my 
The Peas Pilao was spooned on top of my Masala, time to eat. Hang on, something was missing. After a few minutes it was apparent that the Hara Payaz Aloo was not coming. A Waiter was informed, he returned and admitted they had – messed up. It would come.
The Hara Payaz Aloo was finally presented. This was shared with Sandy who by now needed something to complement his Dry Curry. My reason for ordering, this Vegetable Curry is also served in a Thick and Minimal Masala. The Seasoning was a bit below the hoped for level, the embedded Spring Onion plus the Onion Topping provided – The Crunch. Adding Diversity to the Dining Experience, this is a very good Accompaniment.
Mein Host informed us that Dessert would be provided. Gulab Jamun arrived in an instant. Was this as an apology for the late arrival of the Hara Payaz Aloo, or because they had finally recognised that the visit would be reviewed on the 
The Menu was in three parts, a Lunch Menu, the Main, and a Pre-Theatre (£9.95). Lunch ended at 14.00, it was now Pre-Theatre time. Normally I do not consider these – Offers – in fear that the Portion Size suffers. Achari Balti only appeared in the Pre-Theatre Menu. In the past two days I have had Karahi Gosht and Keema Mutter Aloo, both at the 
The Lahore Fish Pakora had me won instantly. Four Large Pieces, twice what one would receive in the West End. Encased in a Fresh Coriander-rich Spicy Batter, this was as Light as only Fish Pakora could be. The Seasoning was Perfect. The Spicy Dip was accompanied by a Soupçon of Salad containing Cucumber, Radish, Carrot, Tomato, Lemon, Capsicum, Onion and Lettuce. This was a very well presented Starter, thoroughly enjoyable.
The Masala was suitably Thick, more than I would normally desire, hence the Rice to soak it up. The Pickle Flavour was not in-the-face, but was there. The Spice and Seasoning were were within acceptable parameters, here comes the – But. It was obvious that the Lamb and Masala were strangers until a few minutes previously, there was no sense of Spice or Flavour having been infused into the Meat. This was Lamb with a Sauce rather than the hoped for experience. This is what I call a Mainstream Curry.
It is Day two of the
In the time it took to make the Chapatti, the Meal was ready and brought over. It was strange to be eating from a Bowl instead of my normal Karahi. The Large pieces of Potato and the Liberal Fresh Coriander stood out, here we go. Mince, Potatoes and Peas, it’ll never catch on. There was the most Minimal Oil present, and no Masala, as Dry as Curry can be, however, there was still an underlying Moistness, Perfect.
The Bill
The 
Hector’s Lamb Karahi was presented soon afterwards. The Heat was evident, the Hot Oil sizzled. As I have written many times, I am bewildered as to why the mouth can tolerate temperatures that the fingers cannot. Hot Food is where it’s at: Hot Food cools to levels of tolerance, Cool Food tends rapidly towards the inedible.
Today’s Lamb Karahi appeared to have more Masala, and a Thinner one too. The Lamb on-the-bone was piled high, piece by piece was savoured. As the top layer was removed, so the Masala resembled the Norm, Thicker, Herb-rich. The complexity of the Oil-Masala-Herb Mash is what sets this interpretation of Lamb Karahi apart from the rest. The Fresh Green Chilli Topping added extra bite. This is Pleasure.
The single Chapatti was not quite finished proving that one substantial Chapatti is enough. The karahi was wiped clean, should I come back here for my break tomorrow?
Marg declared it was time we took Mother out for Curry, again. My suggestions were vetoed, Marg wished – Ambience – so Curry Cafes were dismissed, it had to be a Mainstream Restaurant. The Alishan ticks all the boxes, the fish tanks at the entrance are what makes this a memorable venue for Marg, for Hector it is the Pholan Devi.
That was lovely – was the verdict. The Tenderness of the Lamb was remarked upon, the temperature of the plate was not. Many a Curry outing has got off to a poor start when cold plates were presented. Mother was wondering who she could bring here, looks as though she’ll be back.
The Lamb Karahi was Boneless, I have not found on-the-bone to be an option at The Alishan. For once I was not able to sample this, Marg ate the lot which is quite unusual for her. The Naan did not appear to be as ridiculously large as memory serves. 
Since the Pholan Devi was first encountered, there is no denying that Hector takes much more to impress. I have never not enjoyed a Curry served at The Alishan, however, to achieve – The Wow – takes something special. Marg’s reheated leftover Lamb Balti did manage this the morning after our 
Ali placed a platter of Saag/Palak beside the Pholan Devi. This is not what I had asked for, I had not made it clear. I now know I have to ask for uncooked Dry Methi. Essentially I had a Curry with a Side of Herbs. The Toppings of Spring Onion and Fresh Coriander on the Pholan Devi were quite Modest therefore in comparison.
The Palak was offered to my Co-diners. Mother could not take to it, her first encounter. Marg had a Soupçon. By adding the Palak on to my own plate, bit by bit, I was in effect giving myself even more Masala without Meat. Cue the Naan. Without the Garlic and Coriander Naan my meal would have suffered, this provided a suitable base on which to mop up the Masala and Palak. In terms of Flavour, the Palak was not particularly potent. Is eating Dry Methi straight from the box a healthy option? It works very well as a Topping.
Both Ladies had Ice Cream. Alishan also offer the bought in Toy Desserts, for lack of a better description,