On Saturday night, Hector was taken along St. Andrew’s Road in Glasgow’s Southside by a taxi driver. This is a thoroughfare around Pollokshields, not a route one travels every day. Once again The Hector had a moment of Serendipity. Passing the much missed premises which three years ago housed The Khyber, Scotland’s First Afghan Restaurant, the lights were on, behold – the Khyber Pass Restaurant (221 St. Andrews Road, Glasgow, G41 1PD).
Star Trek – Beyond in 3D at the IMAX was the prelude to a visit this evening, Hector was in a convivial mood, hopefully a Lamb Karahi would maintain this.
At 20.30, Marg parked opposite. The premises were well illuminated, more people were present than we had ever seen during the previous incarnation. What had been a seating area on the right hand side is now an Open Kitchen and Takeaway Counter, the original Kitchen through the back also appears to still be in use, presumably as a preparation area.
We had a choice of two large tables, Marg chose the window. Sixteen Fellow Diners were present, three more arrived, add to this a continuous stream of Takeaway Customers, and one hopes the Formula for selling Authentic Afghan Cuisine in Glasgow has finally been cracked. Two years ago the Afghan Village on Pollokshaws Road did not survive despite serving a Worthy Karahi. Elsewhere, the new Afghan Restaurant in Crawley – Fat Boy’s Joint – is way overpriced, and then there is the Apology for Afghan Cuisine encountered in München at – Nigin. Hector has missed the Sheer Simplicity that is Afghan Cuisine done well.
The Laminated Menu was simple, mostly Kebap and Grill accompanied by Nihari, Haleem and Paya, the Dishes Hector is in no hurry to try again. But there was the required Dish – Lamb Karahi, £22.00 by the Kilo, £12.00 by the Half Kilo. Why do the good people of Fat Boy’s, Crawley, think they can sell this for £40.00 a Kilo, get real.
No way was Marg going to risk having Lamb Karahi here, she spotted Lamb Chops as part of the Mixed Grill (£15.00), how flexible would they be? The Greek Salad was an unexpected feature, this had Marg onside.
One of the two Young Chaps came over to serve. Lamb Chops were available as a stand alone Dish, there was no Greek Salad, he suggested Marg have just a Salad. For The Hector, the Half Kilo of Lamb Karahi with a Keema Nan (£2.50), no Chapattis or Paratha were on offer. I was interested to establish if the Keema Nan would be served with Pink Meat or Brown. The Waiter assured me the Lamb was on-the-bone, no other requirements need be stated, let’s see how it comes.
Marg was facing into the room and so could see the activity. The photo opperchancities were reduced, no sneaky shots. The Takeaway Counter was always busy, it will take another visit to acquire photos of the new layout.
A Karahi was filled high and taken to the most recent arrivals, Marg wondered why they were served before us. Perhaps they had arranged their order in advance, like we do at Yadgar! Suffice to say, what I saw was encouraging.
A Salad was placed on our table, Marg studied this, slightly in despair. This is what is referred to as a Modest Salad in Curry-Heute. A Raita and a Spicy Dip accompanied. The Mango Lassi in a 350ml Glass was more appealing. For Hector, there was no Sparkling Water or Mango Rubicon, Tangoed! (70p)
Thirty minutes after ordering, which is well within acceptable parameters, a Plate of well fired Lamb Chops with a Little Salad on the side was presented to Marg. Four Chops! Marg took the Best of the Modest Salad, to supplement her own, covered this with the Mint Raita, and tore in.
The Waiter brought the Lamb Karahi and the Keema Nan, this was The Biz!
*
Afghan Nan
Covered in Melted Butter, this style of Naan Bread is markedly different than that served in an Indo-Pak Restaurant. Less risen (Kulcha?), more compacted, perforated, the Mince could be seen protruding. The hoped for Brown Meat was visible as were Coriander Seeds. The Fresh Coriander on top glistened, this was a very different experience. Marg noted that the Nan had a Kick of its own, time to dip.
Afghan Karahi
The Lamb was a mixture of Lamb Chops, Sucky Bones and Boneless Lamb, the full array. The Lamb was wonderfully cooked, enough for a Feast, the Bones meant not to excess. The Masala was Minimal, Tomato Seeds were visible suggesting this was a Tomato Based Masala, no Onion, as I believe is also the Yadgar way. The Oil was collecting at the base of the Karahi, this interpretation looked close to the New Karahi Palace also.
Seasoning is all, this Lamb Karahi was Perfect. The Spice Level was not for the faint of heart, a Serious Kick. Marg was permitted a sample, too much for her as anticipated, Marg was thoroughly enjoying her Chops.
The Keema Nan was even better dipped in the Oil, the Coriander Seeds were a Great Inclusion. In some ways Hector was having Two Meals simultaneously. Joy.
Towards the end, some Masala was left at the base of the Karahi, this was recorded, as Tasty as Masala can be, in no way Excessive. This was indeed a Lamb Karahi, an addition to the few Glasgow Venues capable of serving such a Dish.
A brilliant meal. – said Marg.
The Bill
£22.20. Subtracting the known, the Lamb Chops were £5.00.
The Aftermath
I had asked The Waiter earlier how long the Khyber Pass had been in operation:
Four to five weeks – was the reply. It was he I gave the Calling Card to, he sat down, this was Abdul, Mein Host.
I congratulated him on the Quality of the Fayre, a photograph was agreed. I also managed one of the cooking area, his colleagues will hopefully become used to this in future visits.
What I have not established is the Opening Time. The previous operation opened too late in the day, hence the limited number of visits. Although the impressive Cafe Reeshah is around the corner, if the Khyber Pass Restaurant opens early in the day, The Hector will be back regularly, if and when the Subway re-opens.
The Menu at Khyber Pass Restaurant
Hector is back from Vacation in España, time to have Real Curry. Steve was first to sign up for Goshat Karahi at 
Omar was on top form today. Diffident, reticent, would describe the early days of Omar at 
Omar had suggested that Marg have Salad with her Samosas, what came surprised us all. The Salad and Raita were poured over the Samosas, different.
A Portion had been ordered, what came was a Mountain. Mags prefers Boneless, so the Meat and Potato content of her Curry was significant. The Doggy-Bag was inevitable.
This was The Main Event, a Kilo of the Magnificent Lamb Karahi, no worry here about unnecessary inclusions, Lamb on-the-bone served in the Most Minimal of Masala, but such a Rich Masala. This Karahi has a Unique Flavour, if ever there was a line-up of The Best of Glasgow Karahi, one could pick this out with ease. Smooth, Gently Spiced, Steve and Hector took a Portion, there was still plenty to return to. Having not overdosed on Starters, the task of demolishing the Kilo was completed with relative ease.
Chef Arshad usually takes his bow, perhaps the Curry today was prepared by other hands?
Chapattis were the Accompaniment, one each, Omar brought a fourth later just to make sure. The Debris was cleared, I thought we had finished, Marg had other ideas.
A Pink Milky Tea with Cardamom, Marg loves it. And so we waited for the preparation, Marg assures us it was worth it. Who puts Milk in Tea?
Entering at 14.10, the Lady at the Bar/Reception asked if we had a Reservation, we didn’t. We were escorted to the far corner at the rear of the premises, passing some thirty Diners en route. A distant table perhaps, but from here we could see everything. Tandoori Station is definitely a Pukka Establishment, office workers were interspersed with the casual visitors such as ourselves.
Once again, – Prawns – appeared on this Menu as – Langostinos, not that I’m going on about this, – Gambas – indeed. The Lamb Section of the Menu had a realistic Eight Dishes from which to choose. Karhai Gosht (€14.90) – Aromático y exótico curry de Cordero con Tomate, Jengibre, Ajo y Cilantro, medianamente picante. In the past week we have learned that Lamb is – Cordero. Cilantro – is known to be an alternative to – Coriander -, but – Jengibre? It could not be a greeting in Polish. The How-soon-can-I-replace-this-Useless Samsung, took ten attempts to translate – Jengibre – to – Ginger. This confirmed that the Lamb Karahi had the potential to be Authentic. No mention was therefore made of the Dreaded Ballast – Capsicum, so I decided to take a chance. I did ask for – as thick a Masala as can be managed. Mein Host then enquired about the Spice Level. I gave my usual retort: Spicy is Good. We had raised the stakes above – medianamente picante.
The Keema Samosas arrived as a Pair with the Most Modest of Salad Accompaniment, Lettuce. The Dips had been left, just as well. The Samosas were a good size, Marg was happy with them – Stuffed with mince – was her positive observation, however, Marg’s attention appeared to waver, the Karhai Gosht was attracting her interest, and why shouldn’t it have?
A Large Metal Pot housed the Lamb Karahi, topped with Ginger Strips and Fresh Coriander this looked just the job. As I have come to accept in España, the Masala is going to be of the Standard Indian Preparation, at least this was far from Shorva, the Salsa had Substance. Peaking out from the Mass of Lamb and Masala was the Dreaded Ballast, Small Pieces of both Green and Red Capsicum. At least this was not the feared Stir Fry of Onion and Capsicum which so many Mainstream Venues pass off as – Karahi. I have written that last sentence often, such is the prevalence of Substandard Karahi served to The Hector over the years.
The Spice Level was Serious, Marg took a Dip – Yours is definitely strong, Woof! (Archie Macpherson impersonation understood.) The Masala had a Great Kick, the Seasoning too was right on The Limit, this Curry had the potential to be Wonderful.
It was difficult to count the Lamb Pieces, but the Portion was into Double Figures, the pieces decidedly – Large. The Lamb was so-Tender, the Best Lamb encountered in Spain on this trip. Initially there was a sense of Flavour coming from the Lamb to complement the overall experience, the latter pieces did seem Drier and less Flavoursome. 
The Fresh Coriander and the Ginger Strips became mixed through the Masala as I ate. There was a concerted effort to ensure Zero Intake of Capsicum. The Remnants were left in a pile at the base of the Pot. A final photo was taken to show the Largeness of the Lamb, and the fact that although unwelcome, the Capsicum had not become a too distracting feature of the Curry.
It is always appreciated when a Restaurateur is willing to pose with The Hector, especially in premises as busy as Tandoori Station.
The Raja Mahal (Calle del Ave Maria, 15, 28012 Madrid, España) was spotted yesterday after a quite impressive visit to the 
The Waiter appeared and brought the Menus. I told him I was here because of the advertised Punjabi Curry, that we came from Glasgow, and this is the Cuisine we are used to. His English was slow to begin, but his ear soon adjusted. Google Translate was primed with – Una salsa espesa minima y seca, picante y sin capsicum. Whilst he was happy to take this order, he thought he had better check with Chef. The Replacement Samsung was taken to the Kitchen – What is capsicum? – was the question he returned with. Yay!
Hector’s ongoing Spanish lessons were complicated by the Menu today which had – Prawns – mentioned in the English translation, but had – Langostinos – in the Spanish. Gambas?
The Meat appeared to be very Bright, there was a momentary fear that Chicken had been brought, there had been no error. The Lamb was covered in an Abundance of Ginger Strips and some Fresh Coriander, the first we have encountered in Spain. At first I could only see the Masala around the edge of the Karahi, it looked pretty much like what we have encountered in the past week, but closer examination revealed a reasonable Masala Mash was dominant. Slices of Fresh Green Chillies were mixed through the Masala, this had the makings of a Curry that should please The Hector.
The Paratha was piping hot, Thicker than yesterdays at 
There was Kick, the Seasoning was Perfect. It was difficult to count the Lamb Pieces, but we were into double figures. The Lamb was Tender and varied in size, there was a suggestion that the Lamb had not just been introduced to the Masala, this was a Quality Curry. The Plethora of Ginger meant that this was initially the Dominant Flavour. Halfway down, I stopped to take another photo, I was seriously enjoying this, full of Flavour. A few Large pieces of Onion were encountered, just a few, this was much closer to a Lamb Karahi than the one I had specifically ordered yesterday at 
The Waiter was back as we finished our Meals. He was here to chat, he hopes to visit the UK in the near future. The Calling Card was given, then he summoned Mein Host.
There had to be photos.
Many Sources assured me that there would be ample Curry to be had in Madrid. Hotel Liabeny is located seconds from Puerto del Sol and therefore just north of the Curry House Cluster leading down to Lavapies. Soon after we had checked in we were off in search of Proper Food.
The Chicken Butter looked exactly as one would expect, the Metal Bowls did not look Large but would prove to be deceptive. The Mushroom Rice looked Wonderful, but we agreed the Mushrooms came from a Tin.
The Rice was shared, more than enough for two. Spring Onions were present too, this was a Decent Accompaniment.
Without Capsicum – said Mein Host as he placed it on the table. The Masala was the Standard Indian Masala, it looked as if a Thickener had been applied to make it more Viscous. Decanting the Lamb on top of the Rice, I counted thirteen pieces of Lamb, it most certainly was Lamb. The Full Flavour of the Tender Meat emerged, the irregular cut also confirmed the veracity of the Meat as my mind drifted back to the 
The Aloo Gobi was everything it should be, Dry with a Thick-Minimal Masala. Again I watched the Oil collect at the sides. The Flavour from the Cauliflower was Immense, cooked to perfection. Under-seasoned was my first reaction until I tackled the plentiful Potatoes, here was the Source of the Salt, tremendous!
By now Hector had his Dream Spanish Meal before him, plentiful Rice, Vegetables, Paratha and Tasty Lamb, the Masala was spooned on top as and when. The Combination of all the Components created a Synergy. Hector was eating Curry, in Spain. I was a Very Happy Old Hector.
We discussed the Curry, I congratulated him on the Paratha and the Aloo Gobi. Marg at this point went upstairs to use the adequate Servicios. Mein Host was intrigued by my Curry Eating. He said he had worked in the World of Spanish Food and considered it to be all – Grills, we were talking the same language – Curry. He has plans to open another Venue, I informed him that Salamanca has no Curry Houses, he had never heard of Salamanca. I have planted the seed.
Hail Mary indeed, look what I found…
I also spotted a venue claiming to serve Punjabi Curry, when does it open?
Spain, not a country Hector has visited often. 
There was time to take in the surroundings. The rather obscure entrance gives way to a Bar Area, then one reaches the Dining Area, some of which has been partitioned. The room is Spacious, the tables well spread out, one would not be sitting on top of fellow diners, were there any. Eventually a couple did enter and sat the other side of the Partition.
The Sparkling Water took a time to arrive, the Waiter had to go out and get more, just as well it was quiet. The Drinks were served, Ice and Lemon, Marg’s Water was poured for her.
The order was assembled at the hatch and brought over. Two Negatives hit home immediately. The Lamb Balti was – Soup, the Lamb Karahi had pieces of Capsicum protruding from the Masala. I could have asked for a Dish with a Thick Masala, the Bhuna possibly. Subconsciously perhaps I just wanted to sample what is served as – Curry – at the Taj Mahal.
Capsicum aside, Marg’s Lamb Karahi looked Pretty Good, the Masala Mash was a Authentic as one would receive in any Punjabi Restaurant. The Capsicum was Minimal, the Pieces cut Small. This was not the Onion and Capsicum Stir-fry that too many venues pass off as Karahi.
It looks Sweet, don’t ask me how I can tell – was my enquiry. A slight Sweetness was confirmed.
I ate on, the combination of Masala and Rice proved to be Most Satisfying, it was – Curry. This may not be the Curry I would have hoped for, no doubt the majority of Curry Houses would present this as their norm. It is what I found in 
The Calling Card was given and the Website described. I asked the Waiter what the preferred name was for the venue. Taj Mahal was his very clear response. He informed us that they have been here for fifteen years. A Very Pleasant Chap, there had to be a photo.
Not only Green Capsicum, but Red too. Not just the Offending Ballast, but Loads of it.
Still the Pile of Capsicum grew. The waiter came over to check my progress.
Other matters had to be attended to before the Hector was allowed to have Curry-Heute. A train journey to Bardon Mill was selected as the starting point for our day walk along Hadrian’s Wall. The Tourist Brochure/Map has no scale, no north point, and the map symbols do not match those on the key. 
Mein Host had greeted us at the door and escorted us through to the Tardis-like interior. We were shown to a corner alcove, – much sought after – we were assured. The Menu was incidental. I had already described the (Lamb) Karahi (£9.25) to Marg, I would have the Lamb Methi (£8.95).
Mein Host had to be told that I had chosen this venue because Methi was prominent on the Menu. He took the time to tell us that he is a trained Chef. Prince Harry and Nick Faldo have dined at Saathi, now they can add – Hector – to their list. A Chapati (£1.25) and a Methi Naan (£2.50) completed the Order. No Starters, I suppose we could share, but we both know that the Curry suffers thereafter.
Marg’s Lamb Karahi arrived first – Wow! How many venues present Stir Fry and passed it off as Karahi? This Lamb Karahi looked the real deal. 
It’s the best Lamb Karahi I’ve had for a while – Marg does not order Lamb Karahi that often, I suspect she did so as I had planted the seed, she knew I could then review two of my Favourite dishes at one sitting. One Large Green Chilli is all that was left, the Tender Lamb and all of the Minimal Masala had gone. Marg was hungry, amazing what a four hour walk can do for the appetite. 
The Lamb Methi was presented atop an elaborate candle-lit heater, this too looked menacingly wonderful. The Masala was seriously Thick. The boundary between Masala with copious Methi and Saag/Palak had not been crossed. I had to decant, no way was I touching the red hot irons.
Is it too early to ask? – Mein Host was back.
The First Couple were presented with a Substantial Starter which they must have devoured in great haste, before I knew it, their Mains had arrived. I was kept amused by the lights in the photo on the opposite wall periodically changing. My view of the Bright, Spacious premises was through the mirror which ran the full length of the wall. No Starters? Enquired the other Waiter as he removed the surplus cutlery.
The Bhuna Masala Hansh was worryingly – Red – not more Food Colouring? The Masala was suitably Thick, the Quantity made Rice the correct accompaniment. As the pieces of Duck were decanted, I counted Six, not many I thought. As I addressed the Duck I realised that two pieces at least would require halving. There was enough meat, just. Perhaps the statement above about not requiring a Starter was inappropriate, anyway, not approaching London Portions.
The Spice Level was not a challenge, I had not asked for – Spicy. The Seasoning seemed – under – to begin with, as I progressed so more and more Flavour emerged from the Melange, the level of Seasoning was commendable. The Spring Onion Topping gave the Masala a welcomed – Crunch. I appear to have been writing this with increasing regularity of late. Are Spring Onions replacing Ginger Strips? Cybies may be in season, cheaper… far easier to prepare.
My eyes were still feasting across the table. I had tried some of Marg’s Masala earlier, the same Gritty, earthy Texture that my Duck Dish possessed, though Marg’s was definitely – Sweeter. It was time for me to try the remaining Lamb Chop. One bite… No! Sorry, this does not work after what I have just eaten, too much of a Conflict of Flavour.
Walking from the the Travelodge along Gilesegate and then Claypath, we passed The Capital and the Rajpooth Tandoori, Hector’s objective was the – intimate and family run – Shaheens just outside the Castle. It is closed on a Sunday I discovered, Tuesday Lunchtime may be my only opperchancity now.
We were shown to a table for two at the far end where the seating area narrows. Marg had all the view, counted fourteen fellow diners and estimated the place to be a third full.
The Menu had the Mainstream Array of Curry one expects with a section on Balti also, the latter were a Pound or so dearer for no apparent reason. We both reached the Fish Curry list, at £10.95 for each of our choices, better value. Again, I never understand why Fish Curry can be more expensive than Meat.
On spotting the Karai Ayre (£10.95) – Fillet of Ayre cooked in the karai with green chilli, fresh ginger, garlic, tomatoes, onion and capsicum – it had to be. How many Curry Houses attempt to serve a Fish Karahi? However, the Mainstream was anticipated, no Desi here.
The Karai Ayre was delightfully Pale, reminiscent of the Excellent Machi Masala served at Glasgow’s 
The Macher Molee was Red, very Red. Food Colouring to the fore, and violating one of the key elements of 
Ayre, or Ayer, is Catfish I have now established. There was a slight Sweetness from the Fish as Sources suggest one can expect. It is good to find – Fish – identified, and not just classified as – Masala Fish. The Kick from the Masala was Modest, when the Fresh Green Chillies were bitten into, Gosh! The Curry was lacking in Seasoning, which should not happen with Fish, Freshwater Catfish, is there any other kind? The Quantity of Ayre was Sufficient, again I have been to too many establishments which overcharge for Fish then skimp on the Portion. Despite the Onion Overdose, I had no regrets ordering this, until…
