Is it possible that Hector had acquired an Air of Indifference regarding this evening’s Buffet, the fourth of the India 2016 Trip? An Outstanding mid-afternoon Fish Curry at Niros Restaurant would be a hard act to follow, still there would be Musik and Dance.


Marg and Hector arrived at the Rooftop Restaurant in Shahpura House (D 257 Devi Marg, Bani Park, Jaipur, Rajahstan, 302016, India) to find The Party in full swing. This Hotel is quite a Labyrinth, when one’s room is on the far side, the correct stairs were not that obvious. Two Chaps sat in the customary position on the floor, Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan it was not, but still – Pleasant. Various Ladies would perform Traditional Dance throughout our meal.
A single glass of Red Wine was offered and accepted, the price of Wine in the Maidens Hotel, New Delhi had already raised concern. Stella Artois was spotted in the distant fridge, no Sparkling Water for The Hector tonight, there was the promise of more Bier afterwards. Party on.
The Waiters served the Starters. A Vegetable Something in Batter, a Fritter/Pattie, had a decent Kick. The starlight meant nobody could see inside, to be sure. A piece of Chicken was, well Chicken-like. Seekh Kebab! My first in India, things are looking up.

A Potential Problem
A mid-afternoon Lunch, Starters, now Buffet #4. Even The Hector has his limits. Join the queue, at the end, that way there’s nobody behind being held up as the Ritual Photos are taken.
*
Lal Maas, Lamb on-the-bone, looks Good!
Chicken Curry, the Masala looks Sound.
Mixed Vegetable – Minimal Masala.
Penne, Penne, Penne. Tarka Daal, with the above, no need.


Crispy Potato, I have learned not to dismiss this.
Jeera Rice, what is Rice without Cumin Seeds?


Chapattis, just in case. Salad, Achtung!


I limited my choice to three, A Soupcon of Lal Maas, Mixed Vegetable and Crispy Potato.
Lal Maas
Simon, sitting opposite, told me that this is the Signature Dish of the Region. The Pieces of Tender Lamb I had chosen were on Large Bones, enough Meat, what is happening? The Masala was Superb! The Thick, Rich Masala was far removed from the Shorva that have been served too often on this Trip. The tell-tale taste of Red Wine in the Masala gave it a Bite. This was easily the Standout Buffet Dish of The Trip. If this was served by the Half Kilo in a Glasgow Curry House, we would be in raptures. Is it possible that there is Quality Curry to be had in India? Who created the Negative Waves? Why an I here?
Mixed Vegetable
Another Winner! When the Masala is as Minimal as served here, something tells me you’re into something good. Sadly, such was the Intensity of Flavour from the Lal Maas, this Dish did not compete. In any of Buffets 1 – 3, this would have been hailed as – The Interesting Vegetable.
Crispy Potato
They look like Chips, they taste like Chips, they’re Chips. A pity. Back to Patan.
For Marg, this was Dinner, she ate much more than I did, she too was impressed. It must have been Marg who took the better photos of the Dancers, Hector had Bier, Curry and Conversation, who needs Dancers?


The Bill
The Bier had to be paid for. Rs 1000 (£11.00) for a little over a Pint of Stella! Extortion! At least we hadn’t ordered Wine. That’ll be £35.00 please. The Victims paid up, caught in a trap…
The Aftermath
Adrian led fourteen of us to the Shakuntalam Bar & Restaurant (D157, Kabir Marg, Bani Park, Jaipur, India) for Bier and Wine at Sensible Prices. The Menu had the Full Range of Indian Food, Curry. This Venue did not show upon any Search that I conducted, on foot or in t’Internet. As I did not eat here, the page belongs to Bier-Traveller.com.
India Trip 2016 – Day 5, Jaipur – Disclocated Day: Another Temple, Another Bier








Quite a few tables were seen to be occupied as the doorman showed us in. The hierarchy of waiters was revealed by their uniforms. A Drinks Waiter was keen to serve, the Food Waiter had to be stalled. Club Soda (Rs 90) in the meantime. Sparkling Water! Sprite (Rs 125) for Marg.
After days on Chicken, Mutton was very much in mind. I spotted the – Fish Curry (Rs 550) – Fillet of fish cooked in special gravy with fresh tomato and herbs. It had to be. The ubiquitous Jeera Rice (Rs 200) would accompany. The Waiter insisted that the Fish Curry would serve two. We agreed on – More than Medium – for the strength. So far, so good.
Two accompaniments were set before us. As they were served cold it was decreed to be Salad, and therefore untouchable. Another Club Soda was required, 39°C necessitates the intake of fluids. I spotted the Maitre d’, a Chap sitting at a dispatch box at the head of the room, a la Sydney Greenstreet. Photographing the restaurant was difficult, too many mirrors, too many people might have wondered…
It looked good, it smelled wonderful. The Masala was a Classic Curry Sauce, far from Shorva. The Masala was not excessive, the Onion and Tomato Base visible. The Rice was enough for one and a half. There was a slight crispy edge to the Fish. Marg received a one seventh share of the Fish. She too remarked on the – crispiness and the kick. What – The Fish – was, we shall never know, – Masala Fish!
Marg could appreciate the Quality, so when I announced – This is the Best Curry I have had in India. – she was not surprised. Outstanding Curry!





At this point Mein Host disappeared, Mother took over, she spoke English!

To a tablespoon of Hot Oil, Yellow Lentils, which had been soaked overnight, were added. They were described as – Green – before soaking. Garam Masala, Cloves, Cumin Seeds, Crushed Bay-leaves, Black Cardamom, and Cinnamon Stick were stirred in. A lot of straining is going to be required.
Garlic Paste, Chilli Powder, Turmeric, Salt, Cumin Powder then Water were subsequently added to the Mix. Apart from the Lentils, this is similar to how one makes any Masala, c.f.
Mother suggested that Chapattis and Roti are the same thing. So why do Rotis go Crisp?

Chicken – served in Shorba. This was Poor, Under-seasoned, minimal Spice.
Paneer – this featured Onions and Capsicum! The Offending Ballast was picked out. Again a Shorba. A waste of Ingredients – is what I noted at the time.
Aloo Jeera – served Dry, this was the best Dish on offer. The Cumin does it for me.
Tarka Daal – maybe I was just determined to avoid this to prove everyone wrong. Still, a Shorba by any other name.
Boiled Rice – just in case you have never seen it.
What appeared to be Lime Pickle made an appearance. Tina assured our end of the table it was Gunda, which is?




Having 




This is a Vegetarian Restaurant, it was written that The Hector would dine here. The Prices were a fifth of the Hotel Prices. People say that the cost of living in
No other Diners joined us. One speculates as to how Fresh the Ingredients may be, the cleanliness of the Kitchen, the Chef. Could this be the Meal that sets us off? I write often of my Preference for visiting the Curry Cafes in the UK/Europe. This venue is officially the Cheapest I have dined in. There had been an attempt at creating Ambience, – Rustic – would be generous. The posters on the wall gave us an insight as to what we would see over the next couple of days.

The Gobhi Mushallam was served Piping Hot, this was a relief, it should therefore be Safe. The Parantha was Modest in size, but then I can rarely eat all of what is served at home. 





It could still be considered early afternoon when we arrived at 





Jeera Rice
Aloo Taare Ko, shout it LOUD! This was Tremendous, Wonderful, add as many Superlatives as you choose. In effect I was eating Chips, I eat Chips rarely, they are Bland. This was a remarkably well presented Potato Dish. It is a Nepalese Dish, a punch on Hector’s Nose. The Hector Hound avoids Nepalese Restaurants unless one is in
Is it any surprise I went back for more? Two impressive Dishes in one Buffet, there is hope.
Marg recalls the Pancake-like Dessert as being – Chewy. Hector does not really care for Dessert. If I’m still hungry, please feed me more Curry.


Resident at the 
Poppadoms, and Dips were brought to the table, a bit of a clue. This Restaurant only sold Indian Food…. I did offer to call it a day despite being in for what was before us, however, Marg was OK with her second Curry-Heute. How many more days will Hector get away with this?
nly be one choice – Railway Mutton Curry – (Rs 895) – The famous curry invented on railway journey during the days of the Raj. There was a fear that Chicken and Daal would be all I would have to eat on this Trip, and here we are, two Lamb Dishes in one day. Plus ca Change.
Since I first encountered Railway Curry, the common feature has been the presence of Baby Potatoes, an Aloo Gosht variant then? Served in a Soupy Masala the Lamb was off-the-bone. Six Large Pieces required the use of a knife to half them. Some Lamb was very Tender, some more Chewy. The accompanying Balls had me puzzled. They looked like Baby Potatoes but the Texture was different. Had the Potato been mashed then bound with Lentils? Reminiscent of Dough-balls, they were the Lesser Part of the Dish.
The Masala had a distinctive South Indian Flavour. Curry Leaves and Green Cardamom were present in the Soupy Masala, there was a Slight Creaminess too. Under-seasoned and Under-spiced this Curry was not particularly demanding. It went Cold very quickly. I’ve had way better in
The Rahra Gosht had the expected appearance but surprisingly was on-the-bone. I have never seen this Dish served in this manner previously. This was Darker, Richer, Sweeter than the Masala served with the Railway Curry.



The Gulati Restaurant (6, Pandara Road, Pandara Market, 




The expected Chicken and Daal were present, plenty of time to be cornered by them. A Waiter brought Spiced Onion and other Salad Accoutrements for those of us who had ordered a la carte. Danger, Will Robinson! We had been warned not to touch any Food that could have been washed in tap water. That nobody touched these begs the question, do they dump them or re-present them? QED.
The metal serving pot was – Large, to say the least. Dry – was never going to be expected in this part of India, so any Masala would be regarded as – Excessive – by this commentator. That the Lamb was on-the-bone was one positive, that the Meat and a Sucky Bone protruded through the sea of Masala made the heart race. My First Indian Curry-proper in India. Patience, Dear Reader.
The Mirch Ka Parantha arrived Piping Hot, Perfect. Red with Chilli Powder, this was indeed a new Paratha Experience. Light and Layered, the Perfect Accompaniment.



Hector only does Curry Buffets on Special Occasions, this
A Dais with Salads was quickly walked past, we have been advised to avoid anything that could have been washed in tap water. Boiled Rice was first up, best not to take too much. A Fish Dish was the first of the Real Dishes. Fish with Sweet Chili Sauce was ignored, there was an assortment of Capsicum therein, no thank you. A very Yellow Daal was also walked by, I had spotted Keema Anda, let’s have some Lamb Mince with Hard Boiled Egg. Matar Paneer – Cheese with Peas – did not sound much, however it looked appealing, as did the Final Selection – Baingan Bharta – an Aubergine based Mash. Some Jeera Rice to mop up the extravagant Moisture Content was required.



Baingan Bharta
This was Pleasant rather than Outstanding, no Methi, but a sense of Spice and Seasoning. The Baingan Barta was impressive, a Vegetable Mash. With Tomato and Onion in the Masala-mash along with the Eggplant, this was as close to the Masala that Hector was taught to cook around the turn of the century. The Matar Paneer provided the Buffet Selection on my plate with the required Overall Seasoning, a sample was enough for me, perhaps on this Trip I may have to risk exceeding my Cheese Quota, but not tonight. The Jeera Rice offered little scope for description other than this is the Land where Cumin is Jeera. They coud have done with being more heavy handed on the Cumin Seeds.
Back for more Keema Anda and Baingan Barta, the latter Vegetable Dish I shall look out for in future, this was the something new I have learned today.

This was not Indian by any stretch of the imagination, but a Sweet and Sour which would be normally served up in the most populous nation of our planet. The Fish was Rubbery, Marg was right, it was like Chicken.
Dahi Bhalley aur Kadak Ki Chaat (Rs 575) is not something one reads on a Menu every day. Lentil dumplings in a sweet yoghurt with spinach fritters. We decided to share this as well as Paneer Pakoda (Rs 650) described as – Cottage cheese fritters served with fresh mint relish, and tamarind relish. Two Veggie Dishes then, yes Hector had just turned down Lamb Roganjosh.
The Dahi Bhalley has been given – to try – at Glasgow’s 
Paneer Pakoda was a First. Hector has to be careful with his intake of Cheese, excess can lead to loss of a meal, rapidly. The accompanying Mint Dip did little for me, the Yoghurt with the Dahi Bhalley was the focus, there was a lot of it. The Tamarind didn’t show. The Cheese Fritters were Pleasant. Between the Batter and the Cheese a Red Band was visible, Chilli, the Source of The Kick.

A somewhat curtailed afternoon Trip around Delhi featuring
The Day has dawned, Hector and Marg en route to India, where some say I shall not enjoy the Food, perhaps there is more to India than Curry? Any remote chance The Hector had of wining the Curry Lover of The Year was blown out the water this morning when Neil sent a link from a newspaper, a 103 Year Old Lady is also a listed finalist. So it goes.
Seventy Eight minutes into – The Intern – it was time for The Hector to be fed, somewhere over Slovakia. Marg too opted for the Indian Chicken, how long before she is dreaming of Pasta?
The Tray was Complex, the Main Course was footery: Plain Rice in the middle, Chicken in a Masala on the right, and a Daal on the left. A Small Side contained Pasta (!), another some Natural Yoghurt. A hot Bread wrapped in foil housed a Modest Paratha. Who can eat an whole Paratha? This time.
The Chicken Portion was Microscopic on The Hector Scale of Meat, a couple of Wee Bits. With the Minimal Masala merely shrouding the Chicken, as is preferred, the Experience had potential. Coconut with a hint of Cumin, I thought I was flying to Northern India. The Daal came to the rescue, here was the more typical Earthy Flavour the Hector seeks in a Curry. Again, but a Soupcon, this was eked out between Chicken, Rice, Paratha and Yoghurt. I was enjoying this more than any In-flight Meal I had ever encountered!