Jaipur – Shahpura House Hotel – Buffet #4, A New Hope

Is it possible that Hector had acquired an Air of Indifference regarding this evening’s Buffet, the fourth of the India 2016 Trip? An Outstanding mid-afternoon Fish Curry at Niros Restaurant would be a hard act to follow, still there would be Musik and Dance.

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Marg and Hector arrived at the Rooftop Restaurant in Shahpura House (D 257 Devi Marg, Bani Park, Jaipur, Rajahstan, 302016, India) to find The Party in full swing. This Hotel is quite a Labyrinth, when one’s room is on the far side, the correct stairs were not that obvious. Two Chaps sat in the customary position on the floor, Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan it was not, but still – Pleasant. Various Ladies would perform Traditional Dance throughout our meal.
A single glass of Red Wine was offered and accepted, the price of Wine in the Maidens Hotel, New Delhi had already raised concern. Stella Artois was spotted in the distant fridge, no Sparkling Water for The Hector tonight, there was the promise of more Bier afterwards. Party on.
Jaipur Shapura House Curry-Heute (1)The Waiters served the Starters. A Vegetable Something in Batter, a Fritter/Pattie, had a decent Kick. The starlight meant nobody could see inside, to be sure. A piece of Chicken was, well Chicken-like. Seekh Kebab! My first in India, things are looking up.

Jaipur Shapura House Curry-Heute (5)Jaipur Shapura House Curry-Heute (6)A Potential Problem
Jaipur Shapura House Curry-Heute (23)A mid-afternoon Lunch, Starters, now Buffet #4. Even The Hector has his limits. Join the queue, at the end, that way there’s nobody behind being held up as the Ritual Photos are taken.

*

Lal Maas, Lamb on-the-bone, looks Good!
Jaipur Shapura House Curry-Heute (8)Chicken Curry, the Masala looks Sound.
Jaipur Shapura House Curry-Heute (10)Mixed Vegetable – Minimal Masala.
Jaipur Shapura House Curry-Heute (16)                 Penne, Penne, Penne.                           Tarka Daal, with the above, no need.
Jaipur Shapura House Curry-Heute (15)Jaipur Shapura House Curry-Heute (18)

Crispy Potato, I have learned not to dismiss this.

Jeera Rice, what is Rice without Cumin Seeds?

Jaipur Shapura House Curry-Heute (14)Jaipur Shapura House Curry-Heute (20)

              Chapattis, just in case.                                              Salad, Achtung!

Jaipur Shapura House Curry-Heute (22)

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I limited my choice to three, A Soupcon of Lal Maas, Mixed Vegetable and Crispy Potato.

Lal Maas
Simon, sitting opposite, told me that this is the Signature Dish of the Region. The Pieces of Tender Lamb I had chosen were on Large Bones, enough Meat, what is happening? The Masala was Superb! The Thick, Rich Masala was far removed from the Shorva that have been served too often on this Trip. The tell-tale taste of Red Wine in the Masala gave it a Bite. This was easily the Standout Buffet Dish of The Trip. If this was served by the Half Kilo in a Glasgow Curry House, we would be in raptures. Is it possible that there is Quality Curry to be had in India? Who created the Negative Waves?  Why an I here?

Jaipur Shapura House Curry-Heute (25)Mixed Vegetable
Another Winner! When the Masala is as Minimal as served here,  something tells me you’re into something good. Sadly, such was the Intensity of Flavour from the Lal Maas, this  Dish did not compete. In any of Buffets 1 – 3, this would have been hailed as – The Interesting Vegetable.

Jaipur Shapura House Curry-Heute (24)Crispy Potato
They look like Chips, they taste like Chips, they’re Chips. A pity. Back to Patan.

For Marg, this was Dinner, she ate much more than I did, she too was impressed. It must have been Marg who took the better photos of the Dancers, Hector had Bier, Curry and Conversation, who needs Dancers?

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P1000730The Bill
The Bier had to be paid for. Rs 1000 (£11.00) for a little over a Pint of Stella! Extortion! At least we hadn’t ordered Wine. That’ll be £35.00 please. The Victims paid up, caught in a trap…

The Aftermath
Adrian led fourteen of us to the Shakuntalam Bar & Restaurant (D157, Kabir Marg, Bani Park, Jaipur, India) for Bier and Wine at Sensible Prices. The Menu had the Full Range of Indian Food, Curry. This Venue did not show upon any Search that I conducted, on foot or in t’Internet. As I did not eat here, the page belongs to Bier-Traveller.com.

India Trip 2016 – Day 5, Jaipur – Disclocated Day: Another Temple, Another Bier

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Jaipur, Rajahstan – Niros Restaurant – Yes!

Jaipir Niros Curry-Heute (1)Jaipur Jewellry Bier-Traveller (9)This is Day 5 of The India Trip 2016, our last full day in Jaipur. Nothing is likely to compete culturally with yesterday’s visit to Amber Fort. This morning, another temple – Birla Temple. Later another museum the – Albert Hall, that was different. Lunch was officially at a Precious Stone and Jewellery Shop, the Meat Samosa was more impressive than what was on sale. Black Rum, do they think we’re stupid? Needless to say we escaped without wasting our money.
Jaipur Birla Temple Bier-Traveller (2)Jaipr Albert Hall Bier-Traveller (3)

The fun part of the day, so far, was the Rickshaw Ride around Jaipur’s Old City. Now we have been set free, an afternoon to do as we please. Marg has her own agenda, it can wait an hour. Hector has an opperchancity to find a Jaipur Curry House.
Jaipir Niros Curry-Heute (21)Jaipir Niros Curry-Heute (20)

Our Rickshaw Ride ended at the New Gate, the intended restaurant was not to be found, start again. This is how The Hector came to appreciate that – Restaurants – are frequently  – Vegetarian, the way to guarantee Meat is to find a Restaurant selling Multinational CuisineNiros sells food from that most populous of nations east of India.
Jaipur Albert Hall Bier-Traveller (4)Jaipur Rickshaw Bier-Traveller (28)

Niros Restaurant (Shop N.80, Mirza Ismail Road, Jaipur, Rajasthan, India) a few minutes west of The Clock Tower, could fit the bill.

Jaipir Niros Curry-Heute (9)Quite a few tables were seen to be occupied as the doorman showed us in. The hierarchy of waiters was revealed by their uniforms. A Drinks Waiter was keen to serve, the Food Waiter had to be stalled. Club Soda (Rs 90) in the meantime. Sparkling Water! Sprite (Rs 125) for Marg.
Marg was not interested in a full blown meal, perhaps a snack, however her choice (Pakora? no notes) was not available mid afternoon. She would have Ice Cream later.

Jaipir Niros Curry-Heute (2)After days on Chicken, Mutton was very much in mind.  I spotted the – Fish Curry (Rs 550) – Fillet of fish cooked in special gravy with fresh tomato and herbs. It had to be. The ubiquitous Jeera Rice (Rs 200) would accompany. The Waiter insisted that the Fish Curry would serve two. We agreed on – More than Medium – for the strength. So far, so good.

Jaipir Niros Curry-Heute (7)Two accompaniments were set before us.  As they were served cold it was decreed to be Salad, and therefore untouchable. Another Club Soda was required, 39°C necessitates the intake of fluids. I spotted the Maitre d’, a Chap sitting at a dispatch box at the head of the room, a la Sydney Greenstreet. Photographing the restaurant was difficult, too many mirrors, too many people might have wondered…

The Jaipur Fish Curry
Jaipir Niros Curry-Heute (10)Jaipir Niros Curry-Heute (11)It looked good, it smelled wonderful. The Masala was a Classic Curry Sauce, far from Shorva. The Masala was not excessive, the Onion and Tomato Base visible. The Rice was enough for one and a half. There was a slight crispy edge to the Fish. Marg received a one seventh share of the Fish. She too remarked on the – crispiness and the kick. What – The Fish – was, we shall never know, – Masala Fish!
The Earthy Aroma was a prelude to the magnificent Flavours. The Spice was exactly as asked for, the Seasoning was perfect. For two? This was a decent Hector Portion.
Jaipir Niros Curry-Heute (15)Marg could appreciate the Quality, so when I announced – This is the Best Curry I have had in India. – she was not surprised. Outstanding Curry!

Jaipir Niros Curry-Heute (16)Jaipir Niros Curry-Heute (12)

Marg ordered Ice Cream, Vanilla and Mango. There was no surprise when a Portion (Rs 140) of each arrived. Our first Ice Cream in India.

Jaipir Niros Curry-Heute (19)Jaipir Niros Curry-Heute (18)

The Bill
Rs 1563.58 (£17.40). The meal cost the same as it would at home.

The Aftermath
Now to cater for Marg, Shopping………..

Buffet #4 tonight at Shahpura House.  Curry for Dinner, perchance?

India Trip 2016 – Day 5, Jaipur – Disclocated Day: Another Temple, Another Bier

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Jaipur – An Indian Cookery Demonstration + Buffet #3

Amber Fort Bier-Traveller (19)Jaipur Workshop Bier-Traveller (30)Today is Day 4 of our India Trip, the first full day in JaipurAmber Fort may well be the Unexpected Highlight of the entire Trip, we even bought a Carpet.  Tonight we have a Cookery Demonstration with Buffet #3 to follow.

One does take notes in order to maintain the accuracy of what is reported. It is frustrating that I can therefore only report that this evening’s Indian Cookery Demonstration took place in the home of The Lady who did the cooking, but I know the street: Sawai Jai Singh Highway, Bani Park, Jaipur.
No I do not have the name of The Lady, or her Son who did the introduction. Henceforth they shall be referred to as Mother and Son/Mein Host.
The House was but a block or so from the Shahpura House Hotel where we are resident. We could have walked, however it was written that we board our coach and tackle the traffic, so it goes.
The Son greeted us and showed us the way to a large room where we would later dine. Another smaller Group sat nearer the garden, ah there’s the Buffet.
The Son, in his Pukkah English Accent, did the introductions, Mother stood and smiled. There was the assumption that she did not speak English.
An alcove housed a portable gas cooker where a line of Herbs and Spices were on display. As part of the introduction, the use of the term – Onion Bhaji – was challenged, it is meaningless, we were informed. Bhaji has been on offer in Breakfast Buffets so far, but as yet not tackled. A simple Vegetable Curry may be a better description of the Bhaji I have seen to date.

Mein Host, held up each of the Spices in turn, then passed samples around the room. First up was Salt, indeed, the most important Ingredient in my book, c.f Namkeen Karahi. Turmeric, Chilli Powder, Coriander Powder, Cumin, Mustard Seeds, Fresh Coriander, Cloves (Masala Chai), Cinnamon Bark, Black Pepper, Green Cardamom, Black Cardamom (more – smokey – we were informed) followed on.

Jaipur Curry Demo Curry-Heute (2)At this point Mein Host disappeared, Mother took over, she spoke English!
Hector was wondering where his Favourite Ingredient was, no Methi. Mother showed us Fenugreek Seeds and Fenugreek Leaves. We are in India.
The creation and use of Garam Masala was then outlined. Grinding one’s own selection of Spices would appear to be the norm, though as Hector has done, leaving them whole and putting them in a muslin bag is an accepted alternative.

Masala
Here we disagreed. Mother insisted that Masala is Spice, no more. Hector’s experience of European and North African Curry is such that the term is also used to describe – The Sauce. This is what I was taught in my Curry Course by a Punjabi Lady many years ago. I also find myself using the term – Masala-mash – to describe the pulping of Onion/Tomato in a Karahi, but not so far as to create the classic Curry Sauce. There was no mention of Shorba, but this I am seeing on Indian Menus – Soup!
Karahi – lets’s not go there. There was a Karahi on the gas, it was filled with Soya Bean Oil, we were about to see the preparation of Vegetable Pakora. Mother told us that Soya Bean Oil has a neutral flavour. I can’t say I have seen this in our Asian Grocers, look what happened to the price of Nut Oil after Rick Stein’s TV programme.

Vegetable Pakora
Chickpea Flour was admitted to being Gram Flour, as is on sale in the UK. To this, undeclared quantities of: Salt, Turmeric, Chilli Powder and Coriander Powder were added. Fear not, an almost identical Recipe is available on this Website.
Chopped Onions, Potatoes and Cauliflower (!) were mixed in, then Cumin. Cold Water was added to make the Paste, then the hard bit, making roundish- Pakora.

Jaipur Curry Demo Curry-Heute (3)Jaipur Curry Demo Curry-Heute (7)

The Pakora was left to cook whilst Mother went on to prepare a Daal Tarka. After a few minutes, Hector knew the Pakora was being over-cooked, but still, she only had one set of hands. Mein Host does not cook.

Daal Tarka
This is the Dish people suggested I would be sick of by now.

Jaipur Curry Demo Curry-Heute (6)To a tablespoon of Hot Oil, Yellow Lentils, which had been soaked overnight, were added. They were described as – Green – before soaking. Garam Masala, Cloves, Cumin Seeds, Crushed Bay-leaves, Black Cardamom, and Cinnamon Stick were stirred in. A lot of straining is going to be required.
Chopped Onions were added, five minutes later Chopped Tomatoes. Fresh Ginger, Jaipur Curry Demo Curry-Heute (12)Garlic Paste, Chilli Powder, Turmeric, Salt, Cumin Powder then Water were subsequently added to the Mix. Apart from the Lentils, this is similar to how one makes any Masala, c.f. Beginner’s Curry.

The resulting Daal Tarka is not a Dish I will ever warm to, meanwhile the Pakora was surely way past its best.

Chapattis
Jaipur Curry Demo Curry-Heute (16)Mother suggested that Chapattis and Roti are the same thing. So why do Rotis go Crisp?
I have seen these prepared before, I still cannot accept how simple it is, I do not believe it would work if I tried it. Hector, The Pastry Chef?
Wholemeal Flour, that was unexpected, Water and Salt were mixed and rolled out. A Chapatti.

Buffet #3

Before we were invited to visit the Buffet, the Pakora was passed around. As expected, it was too Dry, past its best. Freshly cooked Vegetable Pakora is normally sheer joy. Dear Reader, please try it, follow my Recipe. The Yoghurt Sauce is also a Winner.

Jaipur Curry Demo Curry-Heute (13)Jaipur Curry Demo Curry-Heute (15)

Catering for The Masses means that Extreme Dishes cannot be presented. This was very much the mindset in what was set before us this evening.

Jaipur Curry Demo Curry-Heute (17)Chicken – served in Shorba. This was Poor, Under-seasoned, minimal Spice.

Jaipur Curry Demo Curry-Heute (18)Paneer – this featured Onions and Capsicum! The Offending Ballast was picked out. Again a Shorba.  A waste of Ingredients – is what I noted at the time.

Marg thinks this is harsh. Two Main Courses, neither of which I would tolerate in the UK.

Jaipur Curry Demo Curry-Heute (19)Aloo Jeera – served Dry, this was the best Dish on offer.  The Cumin does it for me.

Jaipur Curry Demo Curry-Heute (20)Tarka Daal – maybe I was just determined to avoid this to prove everyone wrong. Still, a Shorba by any other name.

Jaipur Curry Demo Curry-Heute (21)Boiled Rice – just in case you have never seen it.

Gunda

Jaipur Curry Demo Curry-Heute (26)What appeared to be Lime Pickle made an appearance. Tina assured our end of the table it was Gunda, which is?
Gunda – Bird Lime, or clammy berries. Tina described – Gunda – as being Olive-like Berries. They are soaked in Buttermilk.

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We live and learn.Jaipur Curry Demo Curry-Heute (10)

The Bill
I had to pay for the 500ml can of Kingfisher – Super Strong which five of us were served, half chilled.  Not quite Hotel Prices.

The Aftermath
The Calling Card had to be issued, and despite not being over-impressed by The Fayre, appreciation had to be shown. This was an Experience. Thank you.

 

Jaipur Curry Demo Curry-Heute (22)

Jaipur Curry Demo Curry-Heute (29)

India Trip 2016 – Day 4 – Jaipur, Rajahstan – A Wonderful Day: A Fort, A Carpet, a Bier

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Jaipur, Rajahstan – Chit Chat Restaurant – No Lamb Chops Here

Jaipur Chit Chat Curry-Heute (1)Having arrived in Jaipur this afternoon, we were checked in to the the Shapura House Hotel in Bani Park. With the next two evenings’ Dinners already arranged, tonight was the only Opperchancity to try somewhere Local, and outwith the Hotel Restaurant.
Walking along Devi Marg in the formerly secure Bani Park Compound, we crossed through the open gate on to Kabir Marg. This was our first step proper into Indian Nightlife. In the poorly lit street, the traffic remained ever-present, the continuous – Toot-toots.

The Aamarpali Bar & Restaurant was the objective, there was no sign of it, start again. Shrugging off the constant approaches by Tuk-Tuk Drivers to whisk us away, we stuck to this street. Other Hotels have restaurants, Hector was determined to avoid these, a Restaurant please.
Jaipur Chit Chat Curry-Heute (2)Jaipur Chit Chat Curry-Heute (7)

The Chit Chat Restaurant (D-160 Kabir Marg, Bani Park, Jaipur 302016, India) had also shown up on the Replacement Samsung, it looked a bit – How’s your Father? – still, following our guidelines of what we can eat and what we must avoid at all times, in we go.
A Chap was sitting at a table near the doorway, a Waiter. He showed us inside. We chose a table at the raised area to the rear of the Restaurant where there was a masonry ceiling as opposed to bamboo. The avoidance of insects. Marg chose the seat facing towards the door leaving Hector’s chair too close to the step. The overhead fan was whirling. Anticipating the imminent decapitation of The Hector, The Waiter turned off the fan. Still, close to the edge. However, this was Health and Safety in operation.

Jaipur Chit Chat Curry-Heute (4)Jaipur Chit Chat Curry-Heute (5)Jaipur Chit Chat Curry-Heute (8)

The Menu was brought, Drinks ordered. Marg ordered the most Watery Kingfisher we have ever encountered, 0% abv. Hector, remembering the Tasty Lime Soda at the Gulati Restaurant, ordered Lemon Water. It was only then I speculated as to how this might be prepared. Sip, sip, sip, seems OK, that’s enough. I helped Marg with her Still Water.
Jaipur Chit Chat Curry-Heute (3)This is a Vegetarian Restaurant, it was written that The Hector would dine here. The Prices were a fifth of the Hotel Prices. People say that the cost of living in India is a fraction of Europe, at last we had some evidence.
As a Regular, I would no doubt have ordered a Creation thus maximising the Content of my Meal. Tonight I would order directly from The Menu. Gobhi Mushallam (Rs 150) – Fresh cauliflower with tomatoes, garlic, ginger and onions – I was already imagining this with Aloo, but not Meat. What is happening to The Hector?
A Parantha (Rs 30) would accompany. Having seen enough Indian Menus, I wonder why we use – Paratha – in the UK?

Marg was here too
We had tried for Pasta yesterday without success. Marg’s best options were Vegetable Pizza (Rs 150) or Vegetable Cheese Macaroni (Rs 150), Macaroni it was.
Hector considers his home cooked Macaroni Cheese to be the Finest served anywhere, Marg agrees. She has to, else she does not get fed. Comparisons to be made.

Jaipur Chit Chat Curry-Heute (6)No other Diners joined us. One speculates as to how Fresh the Ingredients may be, the cleanliness of the Kitchen, the Chef. Could this be the Meal that sets us off? I write often of my Preference for visiting the Curry Cafes in the UK/Europe. This venue is officially the Cheapest I have dined in. There had been an attempt at creating Ambience, – Rustic – would be generous.  The posters on the wall gave us an insight as to what we would see over the next couple of days.

Jaipur Chit Chat Curry-Heute (10)Jaipur Chit Chat Curry-Heute (9)

Hector’s claim to serve The Most Outstanding Macaroni Cheese maintains. Marg was playing – Hunt the Cheese. This was Basic, bordering on Tasteless, it filled a gap.

Jaipur Chit Chat Curry-Heute (11)The Gobhi Mushallam was served Piping Hot, this was a relief, it should therefore be Safe. The Parantha was Modest in size, but then I can rarely eat all of what is served at home. Jaipur Chit Chat Curry-Heute (13)Jaipur Chit Chat Curry-Heute (12)

The Paratha was not Flaky as is hoped for, it would do the job.
Four Pieces of Cauliflower does not fill a Hector. Each pieces was halved, else the match would have been over in the first round. The Masala had a look of Genuine Quality. The Oil was suspended in the Spices aiding the Viscosity. Dipping the Paratha revealed a Masala, Rich in Flavour. There was a Tang to match the Achari served yesterday in New Delhi at the Gulati Restaurant. The Seasoning and Spice were exactly how Hector likes his Curry. The Cauliflower retained a slight firmness, not overcooked; the whole Dish was consumed – Slowly.  There was not very much of it, yet I knew I would not be leaving hungry. Dare I write it: if this had Chicken, it would be as good as any Chicken Tikka Masala served at home.
I have to say, Chit Chat is well worth a visit. I would recommend ordering three Curry Dishes between two.

The Bill
Rs 409. (£4.55) This is what we were led to expect.

The Aftermath
We took our leave and headed out into the night. There must be a Bier Source other than Hotel Shapura

India Trip 2016 – Day 4 – Jaipur, Rajahstan – A Wonderful Day: A Fort, A Carpet, a Bier

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Patan, Rajahstan – Patan Mahal

Patan Mahal Curry-Heute (22)Patan Mahal Curry-Heute (19)

It takes seven hours from New Dehli to Jaipur by road? This happens when one goes off track for an hour to reach Patan, Rajasthan. The view of the Hill Fort, or Garrison, heralded our arrival at this remote locus. We were here – To Dine – at the Patan Mahal (V.P.O , Tanwaravati Teh: Neem Ka Thana, Patan, Rajasthan 332718, India), a Luxury Hotel which defines – Remote.
Patan Mahal Curry-Heute (18)Patan Mahal Curry-Heute (20)

Patan Mahal Bier-Traveller (11)It could still be considered early afternoon when we arrived at Patan, as part of the – travel by all modes policy – we had to be driven on Camel-pulled Carts for the ascent through the Village to the Patan Mahal. The Staff anointed us as we crossed the threshold. We were shown the way to the Upper Room where we would have a – Buffet Lunch. A long table awaited. Hector took his seat at the far end, this would mean I went up last and therefore would not hold up the queue whilst the obligatory photos were captured. Day 3 of our India Trip and The Company are becoming used to The Hector’s Ritual.

Buffet #2
Patan Mahal Curry-Heute (15)Patan Mahal Curry-Heute (1)

Roast Chicken was in the first Tureen, walk on by. Jungli Murgh, that looks much more –Interesting.

                  Jungli Murgh                                                  Aloo Taare Ko

Patan Mahal Curry-Heute (2)Patan Mahal Curry-Heute (11)

Aloo Taare Ko (Dry Potato), now there’s a name to reckon with. Brinjal (Fried Aubergine), it does what it said on the tin. Dal Chhaunk Wali was the penultimate offering before the now Ubiquitous – Jeera Rice. Strange, I never serve this at home.

                               Brinjal                                                    Dal Chhaunk Wali

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Patan Mahal Curry-Heute (14)Jeera Rice

The Jungli Murgh had Shallots and Tomato to accompany the Chicken. The presence of was Meat was appreciated, that it was so Tasty came as a surprise. The Jungli Murgh was Well Seasoned and Spiced to a Decent Level. The Masala, a Shorba, did detract from the Whole. Still, for a Chicken Curry, this was as good as one might hope for.
The Eggplant was cooked to a Pulp, it did nothing for me. The Daal was duly mixed in with the Jeera Rice. One is aware that for many in India, this could be their All. For Hector it was Bulk.
Patan Mahal Curry-Heute (4)Patan Mahal Curry-Heute (5)Aloo Taare Ko, shout it LOUD! This was Tremendous, Wonderful, add as many Superlatives as you choose. In effect I was eating Chips, I eat Chips rarely, they are Bland. This was a remarkably well presented Potato Dish. It is a Nepalese Dish, a punch on Hector’s Nose. The Hector Hound avoids Nepalese Restaurants unless one is in Belgium and there is not much else. Cooked in Oil with Onion, Ginger and Garlic; Turmeric, Salt, Cumin, Lemon and Lime contribute to the Wonder that is this Aloo Dish. Hector will be attempting this soon, the Recipe is easy to find.

Patan Mahal Curry-Heute (16)Is it any surprise I went back for more? Two impressive Dishes in one Buffet, there is hope.

Patan Mahal Curry-Heute (17)Marg recalls the Pancake-like Dessert as being – Chewy.  Hector does not really care for Dessert.  If I’m still hungry, please feed me more Curry.

The Bill
We had to pay for the Drinks, as ever they were priced OTT.

The Aftermath
The views from the Patan Mahal are stunning, perhaps this is why we were here.
And so to Jaipur, where more Curry awaits.  This was worth the detour.

Patan Mahal Curry-Heute (21)

India Trip 2016  – Day 3 – The Road to Jaipur, via Patan

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New Delhi – Maidens Hotel – The Curzon Room

Hector and Marg are in India, this Day 2 of Eight Day Intensive Tour of India’s  Golden Triangle. There has been Curry-Heute already at the Excellent – Gulati Restaurant.

New Dehli Bangla Sahib Gurudwara Bier-TRaveller.comNew Dhli Agrasen Ki Baoili Stepwell Bier-TRaveller.com

The afternoon took us to the Bangla Sahib Gurudwara Sikh Temple where apart from prayer, we witnessed the feeding of the thousands. Thereafter the Agrasen Ki Baoili Stepwell took us by surprise, much more than a hole in the ground.
The plan this evening was to find something completely different for dinner, Pasta for example.
New Delhi Maidens Hotel Curzon Curry-Heute (14)Resident at the Maidens Hotel (7 Sham Nath Marg, New Delhi – 110054. India), we were advised that The Curzon Room had an Alternative Menu to The Garden Terrace where we had already eaten Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner. The advantage of an Organised Tour is being able to – do the sights – with the least effort, the payback is the choice of hotel is made by the Tour Company. We are too far away from the hub of New Delhi to simply nip out for Dinner, and the Bier hiatus is best described in another reliable Website.

The Curzon Room was quiet save a couple with two young, well behaved, children and another couple who were just finishing their Meal. The Menus were brought, the order for two Bottles of Sparkling Water given. They were unable to supply the advertised Large Bottle. Bier later, the prices were ridiculous.
New Delhi Maidens Hotel Curzon Curry-Heute (2)New Delhi Maidens Hotel Curzon Curry-Heute (3)Poppadoms, and Dips were brought to the table, a bit of a clue. This Restaurant only sold Indian Food…. I did offer to call it a day despite being in for what was before us, however, Marg was OK with her second Curry-Heute. How many more days will Hector get away with this?

Rahra Gosht (Rs 895) – Lamb braised with fresh ground spices – was Marg’s choice. In the UK this would be described as – Lamb with Lamb Mince (Keema), we shall see. For Hector, there could oNew Delhi Maidens Hotel Curzon Curry-Heute (8)nly be one choice – Railway Mutton Curry – (Rs 895) – The famous curry invented on railway journey during the days of the Raj. There was a fear that Chicken and Daal would be all I would have to eat on this Trip, and here we are, two Lamb Dishes in one day. Plus ca Change.
After the Lunchtime Lesson at Gulati, there had to be Rice. Jeera Mater Pulao (Rs 295), or Peas-Rice with Cumin Seeds for those of us who speak – the other – Curry language. The Waiter confirmed that one portion would be enough to share.

Railway Mutton Curry

New Delhi Maidens Hotel Curzon Curry-Heute (5)New Delhi Maidens Hotel Curzon Curry-Heute (13)Since I first encountered Railway Curry, the common feature has been the presence of Baby Potatoes, an Aloo Gosht variant then? Served in a Soupy Masala the Lamb was off-the-bone. Six Large Pieces required the use of a knife to half them. Some Lamb was very Tender, some more Chewy. The accompanying Balls had me puzzled. They looked like Baby Potatoes but the Texture was different. Had the Potato been mashed then bound with Lentils? Reminiscent of Dough-balls, they were the Lesser Part of the Dish.
New Delhi Maidens Hotel Curzon Curry-Heute (12)The Masala had a distinctive South Indian Flavour. Curry Leaves and Green Cardamom were present in the Soupy Masala, there was a Slight Creaminess too. Under-seasoned and Under-spiced this Curry was not particularly demanding. It went Cold very quickly. I’ve had way better in India, writes The Hector, at Lunchtime today!

Rahra Gosht

New Delhi Maidens Hotel Curzon Curry-Heute (6)The Rahra Gosht had the expected appearance but surprisingly was on-the-bone. I have never seen this Dish served in this manner previously. This was Darker, Richer, Sweeter than the Masala served with the Railway Curry.
I like it a lot, very… said Marg. This was fortunate, we cannot have Marg being Curried-out on Day #2. What happened to the photo of Marg?

Marg required Coffee, Hector’s thoughts were inclined towards the Cavalry Bar in the adjacent room.

The Bill
Rs 2466.56, (£27.40) of which Rs 460 was the added tax.

The Aftermath
A Large Group arrived as we finished our Meal. We walked the few steps to the Bar, a few tables in a room. The Cricket was on, India were playing, some were excited.

India Trip 2016 – Day 2 –Hector’s India Trip – A Day in New Delhi

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New Delhi – Gulati Restaurant – Hector’s Truly First Indian Curry

Early rises are going to be a constant feature of the India Trip 2016, this means Breakfast will be consumed. However, Hector learned in Sri Lanka in 2003 that Curry for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner is pushing it, somewhat.
New Delhi Qutab Minar Bier-TRaveller.comNew Delhi Humuyun's Tomb Bier-Traveller.com

The Excursion today began with a trip to the Qutab Minar, most impressive, then Humayun’s Tomb, a building which inspired the more famous Taj Mahal.

Our Guide announced that Lunch was imminent but gave no clue as to where and what would be on offer. Near the Government Quarters we turned off the Parade to find a cluster of Restaurants. The Buffet option had again been mentioned, but not for Hector. Hector would eat a la carte, Hector wanted full blown Curry.
Delhi Gulati Restaurant Curry-Heute (5)Delhi Gulati Restaurant Curry-Heute (7)

Delhi Gulati Restaurant Curry-Heute (6)The Gulati Restaurant (6, Pandara Road, Pandara Market, New Delhi, Delhi 110003, India) was dimly lit akin to Las Vegas, with Waiters running everywhere. Being one of the last in, we were detached from the main body of The Group. Marg and Hector were joined by Tina, Manisha and Michael (or was it Bernard?), a family of three. Two of five would dine a la carte.
Marg went up for her Buffet Selection. Butter Chicken had been advertised outside as an Award Wining Dish. Who wins Awards? There was no surprise when Marg returned with a selection that featured her Favourite Curry. I was pleased to see her with Daal Makhani, a Side she has been wary of in her early encounters, but a Treat when available.Delhi Gulati Restaurant Curry-Heute (21)
Delhi Gulati Restaurant Curry-Heute (20)Delhi Gulati Restaurant Curry-Heute (19)

The Menu
Bhuna Gosht (Rs 570) was the first Main Course to tempt, it was pleasing to see familiar Dishes on The Menu. Achari Gosht (Rs 560) proved to be irresistible, that the Waiter accepted my soft –asch– sound was all the more pleasing. Across the table, Tina revealed that she spoke Hindi, serious Curry ordering was underway there. Being new to each other it was considered best not to adopt the Full Hector Mode, let them observe that Hector would record everything on his own side of the table. To accompany, something new, Mirch Ka Parantha (Rs 110) was described as – Whole wheat unleavened flour bread stuffed with finely ground chilli. The Waiter warned me about the Spiciness of the Paratha, I assured him this would not be a problem.

Delhi Gulati Restaurant Curry-Heute (28)Delhi Gulati Restaurant Curry-Heute (24)

Fresh Lime Soda (Rs 145) was a Tasty Beverage, served either Sweet or Salt. Having downed the first, a second was summoned. The temperature in New Delhi was in the mid 30s°C. There was time to survey the Buffet whilst I waited for the Achari Gosht.
Delhi Gulati Restaurant Curry-Heute (29)The expected Chicken and Daal were present, plenty of time to be cornered by them. A Waiter brought Spiced Onion and other Salad Accoutrements for those of us who had ordered a la carte. Danger, Will Robinson! We had been warned not to touch any Food that could have been washed in tap water. That nobody touched these begs the question, do they dump them or re-present them? QED.

Achari Gosht
Fifty years ago, or so, Hector had his first Restaurant Indian Curry at the Green Gates in Glasgow’s West End. Thanks to The Mother of Hector and a Recipe brought from India, Curry was well known by this tender age. The Lunch and Buffet at the Maidens Hotel yesterday was but a warm up to this, The Main Event. Bring it on.
Delhi Gulati Restaurant Curry-Heute (30)The metal serving pot was – Large, to say the least. Dry – was never going to be expected in this part of India, so any Masala would be regarded as – Excessive – by this commentator. That the Lamb was on-the-bone was one positive, that the Meat and a Sucky Bone protruded through the sea of Masala made the heart race. My First Indian Curry-proper in India.     Patience, Dear Reader.
Delhi Gulati Restaurant Curry-Heute (32)The Mirch Ka Parantha arrived Piping Hot, Perfect. Red with Chilli Powder, this was indeed a new Paratha Experience. Light and Layered, the Perfect Accompaniment.

I had to stop The Waiter decanting the Achari Gosht to the plate, despite the Splash Risk, I would eat from the Pot, left handed too.
The Lamb was too Hot to pick up, dip the Paratha – Gosh! A Classic Onion-Tomato based Masala, far from Shorba. The Spice and Seasoning were how a Curry should be. Hotter than Medium – was the request, this was testing but never OTT. One of the Lamb Pieces was a Chop – Hector’s First Lamb Chop in India!

Delhi Gulati Restaurant Curry-Heute (33)Delhi Gulati Restaurant Curry-Heute (31)

To think some, one person in particular, suggested I would not like the Food in India, eh? Hopefully the level of Pleasure is being conveyed, Hector was in his element. A Peppercorn was bitten into, lovely. The Pickle Flavour was less intense than hoped for, a Subtle Curry? A visible Green Herb was mixed through the Masala, most likely Fresh Coriander, though for a brief moment – Methi – was considered. The Lamb was Seriously Tender, served in comparatively Large Pieces, difficult to compare to a Glasgow Portion, certainly enough, more than. Given the quantity of Masala, Rice would have been the better accompaniment, note to self. That would have meant missing the Chilli Paratha, difficult, I cannot do Bread and Rice justice.

This is a Curry Hector shall never forget.

The Bill
Rs 1157. (£12.85) This is some two hundred Rupees more than the Menu total. The Bill featured various Purchase Taxes charged at different rates for Food and Drink. Expect to pay 20% above the Menu Prices.

The Aftermath
The Calling Card did not feel appropriate, they were too busy. Time to resume The Tour. No more Curry today, surely…

Delhi Gulati Restaurant Curry-Heute (34)

Delhi Gulati Restaurant Curry-Heute (35)

*

India Trip 2016 – Day 2 –Hector’s India Trip – A Day in New Delhi

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New Delhi – Maidens Hotel – The Garden Terrace Buffet

Delhi Red Fort Bier-Traveller.comHector only does Curry Buffets on Special Occasions, this India Trip is hopefully – Special.  Dinner at the Garden Terrace at Maidens Hotel (7 Sham Nath Marg, Delhi – 110054. India) was part of our India Holiday Package, one had to.
Marg and Hector were asked to join another couple in or group who were still at the Soup stage. A Tomato Soup that was definitely not from a a tin was dispatched with haste. The four of us were ready to peruse – The Buffet.
Delhis Maidens Hotel Buffet Curry-Heute (16)A Dais with Salads was quickly walked past, we have been advised to avoid anything that could have been washed in tap water. Boiled Rice was first up, best not to take too much. A Fish Dish was the first of the Real Dishes. Fish with Sweet Chili Sauce was ignored, there was an assortment of Capsicum therein, no thank you. A very Yellow Daal was also walked by, I had spotted Keema Anda, let’s have some Lamb Mince with Hard Boiled Egg. Matar Paneer – Cheese with Peas – did not sound much, however it looked appealing, as did the Final Selection – Baingan Bharta – an Aubergine based Mash. Some Jeera Rice to mop up the extravagant Moisture Content was required.

            Fish with Sweet Chili Sauce                                   Keema Anda

Delhis Maidens Hotel Buffet Curry-Heute (1)Delhis Maidens Hotel Buffet Curry-Heute (2)

                               Daal                                                               Matar Paneer

Delhis Maidens Hotel Buffet Curry-Heute (3)Delhis Maidens Hotel Buffet Curry-Heute (4)

Delhis Maidens Hotel Buffet Curry-Heute (5)Baingan Bharta

The Keema Anda had to be the Star of The Show. This was the closest Dish to anything I would order a la carte. Kofta Anda as served at Glasgow’s Sheerin Palace is a continuing Favourite, and during Ramadan, The Village Buffet perhaps serves the Best I have encountered. Being used to Punjabi Cuisine, the New Delhi version of Keema was decidedly on the Wet side. Being a Buffet, the Hard Boiled Eggs were at a Premium, two halves as much as one could morally take, but then a Sheerin Palace Portion would probably have little more. Delhis Maidens Hotel Buffet Curry-Heute (10)This was Pleasant rather than Outstanding, no Methi, but a sense of Spice and Seasoning. The Baingan Barta was impressive, a Vegetable Mash. With Tomato and Onion in the Masala-mash along with the Eggplant, this was as close to the Masala that Hector was taught to cook around the turn of the century. The Matar Paneer provided the Buffet Selection on my plate with the required Overall Seasoning, a sample was enough for me, perhaps on this Trip I may have to risk exceeding my Cheese Quota, but not tonight. The Jeera Rice offered little scope for description other than this is the Land where Cumin is Jeera. They coud have done with being more heavy handed on the Cumin Seeds.

Delhis Maidens Hotel Buffet Curry-Heute (15)Back for more Keema Anda and Baingan Barta, the latter Vegetable Dish I shall look out for in future, this was the something new I have learned today.

Delhis Maidens Hotel Buffet Curry-Heute (11)Delhis Maidens Hotel Buffet Curry-Heute (12)

Marg had sampled the Fish with Sweet Chilli Sauce which she had described as – being like Chicken.  I could ignore the Opperchancity for – Fish Curry – no more.  With the required dexterity, pieces of Fish were secured without the unnecessary Ballast, ok, I took one piece of Yellow Capsicum, because it was not Green.  The word – Sauce – , well.
Delhis Maidens Hotel Buffet Curry-Heute (14)This was not Indian by any stretch of the imagination, but a Sweet and Sour which would be normally served up in the most populous nation of our planet.  The Fish was Rubbery, Marg was right, it was like Chicken.

The Bill
The Buffet was part of our Package, however our two small Bottles of Perrier were not. All Drinks at the Maidens Hotel are at least twice what they should be.

The Aftermath
We retired to The Bar to nurse a Bier or two. India were playing Australia in some form of game involving a bat, a ball, and standing around. The Number – 20 – was mentioned a few times. The Locals were ecstatic come the conclusion.

India Trip 2016 – Day 1Hector’s 2016 India Trip starts here

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New Delhi – Maidens Hotel – First Indian Food at Source!

Delhi Maidens Hotel Lunch Curry-Heute (6)The Maidens Hotel (7 Sham Nath Marg, New Delhi – 110054, India) is a long way to travel from Glasgow to sample one’s first ever Indian Food in India. Arriving early afternoon after an overnight flight, our Guide invited us to go for Lunch before we visited some of the local sites. Knowing the Buffet at the same locus was part of our Package, there was no point going for it immediately, a Snack was called for.
Dining al fresco at the Garden Terrace meant that Marg was as interested in the local wildlife as her Lunch, she would be off looking into the trees as soon as.
Delhi Maidens Hotel Lunch Curry-Heute (1)Dahi Bhalley aur Kadak Ki Chaat (Rs 575) is not something one reads on a Menu every day. Lentil dumplings in a sweet yoghurt with spinach fritters. We decided to share this as well as Paneer Pakoda (Rs 650) described as – Cottage cheese fritters served with fresh mint relish, and tamarind relish. Two Veggie Dishes then, yes Hector had just turned down Lamb Roganjosh. 
Marg was recalled from her Safari as the, what would be Starters anywhere else, arrived.
Delhi Maidens Hotel Lunch Curry-Heute (7)The Dahi Bhalley has been given – to try – at Glasgow’s Yadgar and then served as a Dish on the day I was invited to meet Curryspondent Ahmed. A Spicy-Cake Dish is how I first described it, this holds. At Yadgar the Dumplings were served as Small Balls, today they were Substantial, two pieces. The Yoghurt was Refreshing, occasional pieces of Pomegranate were encountered. I love Pomegranate, but only when somebody else has prepared it, today was that day. The Spinach Patties, sorry – Fritters – worked well with this combination. An Experience worth repeating.
Delhi Maidens Hotel Lunch Curry-Heute (8)Delhi Maidens Hotel Lunch Curry-Heute (12)Paneer Pakoda was a First. Hector has to be careful with his intake of Cheese, excess can lead to loss of a meal, rapidly. The accompanying Mint Dip did little for me, the Yoghurt with the Dahi Bhalley was the focus, there was a lot of it. The Tamarind didn’t show. The Cheese Fritters were Pleasant. Between the Batter and the Cheese a Red Band was visible, Chilli, the Source of The Kick.
Delhi Maidens Hotel Lunch Curry-Heute (10)Delhi Maidens Hotel Lunch Curry-Heute (11)

This was a Healthy and Substantial Lunch.

The Bill
Rs 2099.83. (£23.86) Rs 325 (£3.70) was the total of three taxes, cleverly added on to the prices quoted in The Menu. This is The Indian Way we have now learned.

The Aftermath
IMG_4199A somewhat curtailed afternoon Trip around Delhi featuring Jamia Masjid, India’s largest Mosque, then the Cremation site for Gandhi. These feature in more detail, along with the entire nine day tour in Bier-Traveller.com.  Marg has not shrunk.  This was Hector not falling for what followed.

Marg, same spelling, features on many road signs.  It is not – Street  –  but  Parade!

India Trip 2016 – Day 1Hector’s 2016 India Trip starts here

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Jet Airways – The 1000m High Curry Club

74511The Day has dawned, Hector and Marg en route to India, where some say I shall not enjoy the Food, perhaps there is more to India than Curry? Any remote chance The Hector had of wining the Curry Lover of The Year was blown out the water this morning when Neil sent a link from a newspaper, a 103 Year Old Lady is also a listed finalist. So it goes.
The Jet Airways flight from London Heathrow to Delhi’s Indira Gandhi Airport was an hour late in departing, just what one needs before an Eight Hour, plus flight. How many Movies could Hector get through overnight, and what would the In-flight Meal be like?
Jet Airways in-flight meal Curry-Heute (1)Jet Airways in-flight meal Curry-Heute (2)Seventy Eight minutes into – The Intern – it was time for The Hector to be fed, somewhere over Slovakia. Marg too opted for the Indian Chicken, how long before she is dreaming of Pasta?
Jet Airways in-flight meal Curry-Heute (3)The Tray was Complex, the Main Course was footery: Plain Rice in the middle, Chicken in a Masala on the right, and a Daal on the left. A Small Side contained Pasta (!), another some Natural Yoghurt. A hot Bread wrapped in foil housed a Modest Paratha. Who can eat an whole Paratha? This time.
The Paratha was dipped in the Yoghurt for the duration, this felt more logical than tempering the Curry. Jet Airways in-flight meal Curry-Heute (4)The Chicken Portion was Microscopic on The Hector Scale of Meat, a couple of Wee Bits. With the Minimal Masala merely shrouding the Chicken, as is preferred, the Experience had potential. Coconut with a hint of Cumin, I thought I was flying to Northern India. The Daal came to the rescue, here was the more typical Earthy Flavour the Hector seeks in a Curry. Again, but a Soupcon, this was eked out between Chicken, Rice, Paratha and Yoghurt. I was enjoying this more than any In-flight Meal I had ever encountered!
The Pasta Portion was Cold, and lacked any impact, there were better Tastes and Textures present. The Veggie Option may be considered on the return leg.

A Creamed Coconut Dessert heralded the conclusion of the Meal but not the Festivity. The request for Red Wine to accompany saw the issuing of two plastic cups. Now back to the Movie – The Intern – with Robert de Niro and Anne Hathaway. Six more hours and two more Movies to go.

India Trip 2016 – Day 1Hector’s 2016 India Trip starts here

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