Hector comes to praise Curry Houses, not to bury them.
Hector (and Marg) first visited The Dhabba (44 Candleriggs, Glasgow, G1 1LE) about a decade ago. The Dhabba had acquired a reputation for – Something Different. We dined on perhaps a quiet Tuesday with only a handful of Diners and a Single Waiter. We amused ourselves by speculating that given the time spent in the Kitchen, The Waiter was preparing the Curry also. The Food was nothing special.
Some years after, and still before the birth of Curry-Heute, we tried again at a weekend. Again, nothing special. Today technically was my Fourth Visit, having been turned away on a Friday afternoon late June this year, I had just missed the Lunchtime session.
As part of the Pairing with Dakhin, specialising in South Indian Cooking, the Venue across the street, was visited the following day. This was an Enjoyable Visit despite my preference for Punjabi Cuisine. On previous visits to The Dhabba, the Palate was not quite honed to the difference between Goa/Kerala and Punjab. That was then.
“If we’re lucky, this could become the model for 21st century UK curry houses.”
Entering just after 17.00, I was pleased to see a Couple in front of me being greeted so warmly, there were embraces. Hector misses Hassan from Café Salma. A Waiter who was now behind me invited me to sit at any table for two along the window. I chose the far end which appeared not to please the Waiter I shall henceforth refer to as – Sullen. Who is Hector to use this nomenclature? I do smile once the Curry is Tasted, not before.
The Menu arrived in an instant. Dum Pukht took me back to the days of the now closed Khyber, sadly the descriptions did nothing to entice The Hector. The Lamb List was not unnecessarily excessive, Achari Gosht was in keeping with I had in mind. No Karahi, no mention of….
A Smiling Young Waiter took my Drinks order, a Glass of Sparkling Water, (£1.95). The alternative was the Litre.
The Other Waiter took the Food Order and appeared miffed that my Drink was ordered already.
Achari Gosht: A fiery lamb dish cooked in a hot sauce flavoured with pickle masalas.
I was delighted to note that being present at this time meant Half Price Mains from the a la Carte Menu.
Lacchedar Paratha (£3.50) sounded very close to Wednesday’s Lachha Pratha. Flaky and Layers were once again hoped for. The Aloo Paratha (£3.95) was dismissed. I wonder why.
The Smiling Waiter brought some Broken Poppadoms and Three Dips. Complimentary, as they should be. I sampled little of the Lime Pickle so as not to contaminate the Palate for the imminent Achari.
Whilst I waited I heard the Chomp on Crispy Poppadoms from Two Adjacent Tables. More Tables were filling. What had to be the Raan-E-Changeji: Tender whole baby leg of lamb slow cooked in its own juices with herbs, spices and dark rum. Served on sizzler with the sauce on the side. – passed me, wafting. This looked Wonderful and sounded and smelled just as Good. The Sizzling reference had made me wonder if this was – Echte Curry. The Leg of Lamb looked Substantial, there was a Minimal Masala Covering, maybe a – Hector Curry – after all. Next time, and come early. Paying Half of the regular £17.50 is more attractive.
The Young Smiling Waiter brought the Achari Gosht and the Lacchedar Paratha. He realised I had no plate, The Sullen Waiter stepped in.
What is this that stands before me?
The Paratha was Halved, better than Quartered, but still – why? It was not as Flaky as is the Hector Standard. Too Doughy. Worth the price? No, Disappointing.
The Curry Pot was most confusing. Here lay a Yellow-ish, Creamy Masala.
Creamy Achari?
“Staff at The Dhabba in Candleriggs boast that their North Indian Cuisine will be like nothing you have ever tasted”
So the Website says.
They are right.
A different experience is what Hector hoped for. This would be One.
A Dark Red Chilli which Hector associates with South Indian Cooking covered the Dish. This was removed, why was it there? The Lamb was Plentiful, at least a Dozen Pieces of Lamb which required Chewing, not so Soft they were Pulp. Quality Lamb was the conclusion.
The Masala was Something Else
Shorba no, Korma-esque, yes. There was no Taste of Pickle. Speculation, if there was Pickle, what was it? Red Speckles in the Masala suggested Something had been added, but what? There was a Decent Kick. The Seasoning was Ridiculous. Now Regular Readers know that Hector appreciates Well-seasoned Curry. The Erlangen Scale has been applied as necessary. Some mouthfuls were – Unpleasant. The Fresh Ginger Strips added occasional diversity to this Creamy Onslaught. I came to realise that I was not enjoying this Curry. A rarity.
Time Out
In the Years of Curry-Heute, and over Six Hundred Curry Reviews, Hector has only described Four other Curry Venues which have served Food below – The Acceptable. Hector celebrates Curry, even when some do tend towards – School Dinners. Two Venues in Deutschland: Bamberg and Duisburg, one in Orkney, and the other a few hundred metres from Dabbha.
Hector stopped Eating
Unpleasant? Nausea was setting in. This was becoming a concern. Three small pieces of Lamb were left. Was this really Pickle and Cream? Do these ingredients complement each other? Not even in the Cuisine of The Further East where Vinegar is all.
The Bill
£12.20. Exactly what I paid in Dakhin. Value, if the meal had been enjoyed.
The Aftermath
Paying at the Counter, I offered the Calling Card to the Chap at ‘Till. I had to state that the Curry was nothing like what I had expected. I was aware of no Pickle. Why was there a Creamy Masala? He looked towards Mein Host. Mein Host had taken a Break and was enjoying the Fayre. Thankfully he was not disturbed. A New Chap was called in. There was concern.
It was agreed that Achari should not have been Creamy. The Bill was checked, I had asked for Achari. The Photo shows a Creamy Curry.
What was meant to be there? Lime Pickle or Karela?
I was informed that at The Dhabba they make their own Pickle. Pickle/Achari was not apparent.
We walked to the door together, apologies accepted. He would tell The Chef that Acahri should not be Creamy.
If invited back, I would love to sample the Raan-E-Changeji.
Else, Farewell and Good Luck for the Twenty First Century.
Later On
On hearing The Saga, a Learned Colleague adapted one of Hector’s Favourite Quotes:
The Food here is terrible.
Yes, and the Portions are so Large….
The Pakora arrived First, Eight Pieces for £3.85, Twice the value witnessed of late in Angus/Aberdeenshire. The Pakora was remarkably Fresh, Hector restricted his intake to Two Pieces as this was Marg’s selection. We were halfway through the Pakora when the remainder of the Dishes were brought out.
The Mince Palak Methi lacked Seasoning and would have benefited from more Methi. Keema Mutter is part of Hector’s staple diet, this disappointed. 
The Associate brought an Oblong Crockery Plate and a Basket. The latter had two Chapattis which I can only describe as being from the Oatmeal Flour version. Large, Chunky, Body, Hot, Superb.
The Chapattis performed well. The First Scoop of Masala was impressive. Seasoning, a Sense of Kick. This Curry would not be demanding, but it became very pleasing. This is not Hector being wishy-washy, simply enjoying The Pleasure of what is called – Curry. Of course the Lamb was Tender. Twelve Pieces, only Three with Bones. For the record, Two were – Sucky Bones. Marrow – Mmmm. This was a Satisfying Portion. I missed an Interesting Vegetable, but was more than happy to accept what had been given. The Plate was wiped clean. I would certainly eat this again. With some of the Egg Curry as a Side.
Mein Host accepted the Calling Card.
I shall come back and try the Keema, it looks Good.
June 7 
On the last visit, we were embarrassed by the effort that had been applied. Today, another Platter of what can only be referred to as – 
The lack of – Red – in the Masala was most apparent. The First Taste gave away the Salt and Pepper Base to the Dish. The Lamb was Magnificent. Stewart wondered how I was able to – suck the bones – and he wasn’t. Choose the right ones! The Masala was how Hector considers it should be served, Enough, with the Oil collecting at the Karahi Base, Thick, Well- Seasoned, The Kick, Perfect. So Meaty and Savoury – Umami – it was. The Joy of Eating Curry at its Finest.
What we had here was halfway between the Afghan/Punjabi White Karahi and the Traditional Punjabi Karahi. I regard this Dish today as a Major Revelation, The Chaps will no doubt be making enquiries as to when Hector plans to return, Mob handed probably.
The Young Waiter knew when to appear and how not to be in our faces. There was an offer of Coffee or Tea which was declined. However he did present us with Fresh Jalabee as a Complimentary Dessert. I have seen this before but have never been tempted. Hector prefers Savoury to Sweet. However, it would be rude not to…
Actually they have been here for a while, on and off. Meanwhile 
Menus were brought, Poppadoms and enough Spiced Onion for Seven were provided without a word.
Starters were mooted. Beverley announced a Mixed Pakora early, to share with Ryan. Australian Curry Houses sell Bhaji, not Pakora. (I must get the Pakora Recipe posted…). Graeme was determined to choose something different from his Aberdeen Sources: Mazadar Machli Tikki, Fish Cakes to anyone else. With the – something different – in mind, Hector decided it was Quail Day. Bataira was described as having Herbs and Crushed Black Pepper. Mmmm.
Rice Variants, Chapattis and Garlic Naans would be the Accompaniments.
A Half Kilo of Lamb Desi Kourma next visit.
A Text Conversation between Hector and Shkoor @
With hindsight, I wonder why all Fellow Diners had yet to receive their Curry given the Special Offer by turning up earlier. We would have to wait until Everyone Else had been served. The Chops took Twenty Five Minutes to arrive. A Portion of Three for £5.95. The Chops were Excellent, Four would have been Perfect, to share. Tender, the Softest Lamb Chops I have encountered, yet cooked-through, with sufficient Burny-Bits. Cumin Seeds too, Very Tasty.
The Summer Roaming concludes with the monthly Trip to The Staggs, Musselburgh. Only Glasgow Curry will do. Steve and Mags didn’t take much persuasion to join Hector at The 
The tables were set up formally with tablecloths and rose petals, all would be occupied within the next half hour. This is a venue to which people come – To Dine. With some Catching-up to do, we would hopefully be here for the duration.
For Hector – Khazana Lamb – a spicy, hot dish for the connoisseur of fine indian cuisine cooked with fresh ginger and a thick sauce, presented to you madras strength.
For Marg – Lamb Karahi – The very rich flavour is obtained by using fresh ginger, garlic and 
The Lamb Malay aside which was served in a Bowl due to the Soupy nature of this Korma variant, the Presentation of the Curry Dishes was second to none. But!
The Lamb Karahi had no 
Marg, as stated, did have some of the Aloo Gobi. I shall have to work on her some more. Meat and Sauce is not what Hector looks for in Curry. I still advocate the need for – The Interesting Vegetable.
