Curry is clearly not a big thing in Thessaloniki, there are only three venues to choose from in Greece’s second city. So little chance, actually no chance, of finding the Curry Cafes which are abundant in Athena. Mainstream it has to be.
The Hector chose India Gate (Kon/nou Melenikou 13, Thessaloniki 546 35). Having checked it out yesterday on our walk down from the Acropolis to the waterfront, I promised Mein Host that we would return this afternoon.
I liked the given description of the Tawa Gosht (€12.00). Beef would be a change from Mutton. Given that the unnecessary Capsicum was clearly mentioned across the menu but not here, hopefully this Curry would exclude it.
We arrived this afternoon just after 14.00 and took one of the two remaining tables. There are only four tables at India Gate, seating a maximum of sixteen. All al fresco, there is no seating inside. A young boy cleared the 
debris from the previous occupant, carefully wiped the surface and set up our places. He brought a large bottle of chilled Still Water (€2.00). We attempted to have it replaced by Sparkling but gave up when only 200ml bottles of Soda was established as the alternative.
Mein Host came out to take the Order. For Marg, Butter Chicken (€10.00), we would share Mushroom Rice (€7.00) and a Traditional Naan (€2.30).
Mild or Spicy? Marg opted for the latter, as if anyone ordering Butter Chicken was going to ask for it to be – Spicy.
I asked if he knew the words – Desi – or – Apna. Neither seemed to register.
Can you serve me the Curry your mother would have prepared?
Desi – was then mentioned having been just dismissed. I may have got the message across, I was looking for something beyond the Mainstream.
Having taken the Order, Mein Host returned – Mild or Spicy?
We sat and watched the World go by. It was a full thirty minutes wait for the food, so not a rushed job then. I couldn’t help but recall the last Curry I had with Marg outside – Straßenessen in Berlin. The setup was remarkably similar to India Gate, except then it was November, today is October 1st, it’s 24ºC here in Thessaloniki, the Hector is still in sandals. I wonder how this place operates in the Greek winter?
The Curry arrived first, not much we could do with it, except take photos. At least, sat in the direct sunlight, it would get some rays. The illumination in today’s photos is quite different from the norm.
We both remarked on the size of the pots, small. This feeling was enhanced when the Mushroom Rice was presented. Here was enough to share, and some. The abundant Rice had been spiced a la Biryani. Fresh Mushrooms played their part in making this a quite magnificent Vegetable Rice.
If I was able to return here, the Vegetable Biryani would certainly be worthy of investigation.
The Traditional Naan was tear-shaped, thin, risen and blistered. A proper Tandoori Naan. It had been cut lengthwise, this did not detract from the visual impact as cutting it into bits does. A bit crispy, but a thoroughly enjoyable Naan.
Tawa Gosht
Topped with Cherry Tomato and a threat of Coriander, the brown Masala looked splendid in the bright sunlight. The viscosity of the Masala was apparent as it, and the Meat were relocated to the plate. For once, I didn’t count the Meat, there was sufficient. Subconsciously, maybe I didn’t want a lot.
I had chosen Tawa Gosht because of its description, yet there were strips of Capsicum mixed through the Masala. All three colours, just to spoil my day. A discard pile was duly created. Inevitably pieces were eaten, and I would pay for it later. Burp, horrible.
The Spice Level built steadily as I ate, nothing in the extreme, a suitable – kick – as I hoped had been relayed. The Seasoning was fine, neither a standout or a hindrance. The small-ish pieces of Beef were Soft, there was the sense of Spice being given back here. It is so rare that I have a Beef Curry, 
here was a decent, honest attempt. No Whole Spices, nothing in particular that could be identified, but definitely the Flavour of Curry, albeit we’re in Europe and whatever happens over here in Mainstream Curry Houses, that – taste – was present.
The Rice was playing its part in the overall enjoyment of the meal, from here more Coriander. The Naan was used to wipe the Curry bowl, all that remained was the discarded pile of – Ballast.
Butter Chicken
Red, but otherwise, a similarly viscous Masala, but was that Cheese swirled across the top? I’ve been watching too many American cookery videos. Marg assured me it was Cream. The Hector Soupçon was sourced – Sweet. This Curry was for those who like that sort of thing. Marg’s verdict:
A fairly small dish with an abundance of sauce in ratio to the pieces of chicken. A very sweet and thick sauce went well with the Rice. I was ready for this meal and started before the Bread arrived. A crispy and tasty Naan.
The Mushroom Rice was full of spices and these extra textures added to the whole flavour. I loved the Coriander kick. Overall, a tasty dish with the Mushroom Rice the stand out.
The Bill
€33.30 (£27.71)
The Aftermath
The ritual of introducing Curry-Heute complete, I asked Mein Host about his lack of indoor tables. They have heaters for outside in winter, simples. One therefore must really want a Curry to come here but then there are so few choices.
Strangely, the food today was not discussed. I was advised that expansion was not possible due to the adjacent excavation.
What did the Romans ever do for us?
2024 Menu
There was just time for one more
To return to another favourite venue was dismissed in favour of further exploration in the Curry Mecca north of Psiri towards Amonia. I had a look at Indian Paradise Kuzina (Koumoundourou 3, Athina 104 35, Hellas) before 
We arrived at Indian Paradise Kuzina at 15.50. It became apparent that initially, the few people eating here were the staff, shots each. Two further customers made me aware, this place is cash only, not that one needs much when dining in this neck of the woods. 
We took the corner table, from there, all could be surveyed. The poster behind Marg with the tiger, proudly proclaimed Bangladesh. The Hector, unashamedly has a preference for the cuisine on the north-western side of the Indian subcontinent. Back in the UK, Bangladeshi Curry Houses are more associated with the – Mainstream. However, here was another Curry Cafe in 
A menu? – I proffered, realising that if I hadn’t seen it by now, there probably wasn’t one. This also meant there were no prices on display, though I had found a graphic online, but cannot verify the age, hence the accuracy. We were invited up to the counter to choose from the prepared meals on display. 
There was a hiatus outside, Marg saw everything, I missed it being actually outside getting more photos, the banners being the only semblance of a menu. The spare piece of ground opposite has been fenced off and is being used as a private car park. A driver came out and almost collided with a passing vehicle. More animated discussion, a pity there’s no movie.
Eight large pieces of Meat, three with large bones, were arranged on the Rice. I didn’t see any fatty bits but did see a mini attachment that might have been offal. This left minimal Masala in the bowl. A Dry Bangladeshi Curry, unusual. 
The single Fish was substantial. White Fish, thick, chunky, it retained its integrity. Visibly Oily, the Masala was a different entity from the above. This was a mash of Tomato and Onion, a different eating experience altogether. The customary Soupçon crossed the table. A Fishy Curry, not to be taken as read. Had I ordered this, I would no doubt have been satisfied, well in a portion with more Fish. However, I would then have missed the outstanding Mutton Curry. 
With the Fish, Masala, Clove-rich Rice, and Salad, Marg had a lot going on. 
I chose to have one piece of Fish (looked like a Lamb Chop in shape) covered with tasty vegetables of onion and tomatoes and spices. I then asked for Rice pointing at the Biryani. The Rice, which had the flavour of cloves complemented the rich oily sauce from the Fish. I added the green salad which was very finely chopped with thin strips of carrot. Overall, full of flavour which tingled my mouth. I removed the bones from the Fish as I ate it. It was a lovely change for me. 
It was Parvez, an even younger chap who cleared the table. My instincts were correct, he was understanding more English. I went up to pay.
What is this? – I asked, pointing to the mass of – foliage – on the counter.
Hector and Marg are in 
En route we passed more untried venues, who knows, I might get round them all, if I live long enough. The Hector does not have to apologise for returning to 
Arriving at 13.20, we took a table inside for a change, but still in the doorway. One day we’ll be recognised, and maybe walk boldly to the upstairs seating. Mein Host approached, not quite a greeting, and had the only other chap we recognised, bring the menu. The waiter seemed to be distracted, always in conversation with people at the counter. He did bring us a table covering, only one other table would be royally treated. 
Unbelievably, prices had not gone up since last year. How they can continue to provide the quantity at the prices charged, remains a mystery. Look at the price of Bread.
Clearly, they cannot be using top quality Meat, but if cooked properly, does that really matter?
Marg tore into the Salad, apart from Feta, all was here that she would have had in a Greek Salad. Everything was fresh, no limp Vegetables. 
When the two karahi were brought to the table, the near absurdity of the laden table made me wonder – who cannot afford to eat here? There was a momentary wait for the Bread – Pakistani Roti (€0.50), a pair, light, fluffy, glorious Bread. The Roti beneath would crisp on one side, this suited Marg. The Hector would have his fill of beautiful fresh Bread. Only a scrap would be left over. 
The brown Masala had a decent viscosity, this was not Shorva, and no sign of Oil, excess or otherwise. There was plenty Masala for dipping. The Meat count was bewildering, this much for so little. OK, the majority of pieces were on-the-bone, and not recognisable cuts of Meat. Some chewy bits, fatty also, no offal. We were not just here because it’s cheap, it’s the quality of the Curry.
The Masala was gorgeous. With the Seasoning to the fore, the Flavours were intense, Earthy, this was authentic Punjabi fayre. No Whole Spices, so no clues as to what was in there, I assume, the lot: Cinnamon, Clove etc. Why I would have so much Bread was all down to the Masala.
Having celebrated the contents of the karahi, it was time to introduce some of the Salad elements. The Tomatoes, dipped in the Masala, wonderful. The Cucumber remained, as Cucumber. Olives, the dry, bitterness, complemented the Masala, a new avenue of Flavour. The solitary Pickled Chilli was Hector’s, no dispute there. Salt, Vinegar, heat, more sensations on the palate. Diversity rules.
Well Keema Mutter actually. The Oil had separated, a wet Keema. Again, the quantity defied belief. The Hector had his Soupçon, the depth of Flavour here was nothing like that of the Karahi. 
A lovely Salad arrived with the usual Raita sauce. Enjoyed this mix.
The Bill
Nine days without Curry, nine days without red meat, the legacy of the 
Pratap pointed to the – Specials – board and suggested Lamb Pepper Fry (£15.00). I gave two reasons why today this would not suit: my excess of Meat in 
A 750 ml bottle of Sparkling Water (£4.50) was dully provided, better value than many an establishment. Suitably chilled, this justified the investment. 
Pratap brought the food and importantly, an extra plate. This included a complimentary Samosa Chat which is not featured on the menu. 
A handi! If these have been on the premises all this time, why serve the Curry on a soup plate? The handi was brimming with Potato, Cauliflower and Peas, fresh Coriander had been stirred in. Dry Curry is Hector’s preference, this Dish had no sign of a Masala, and if this was more of a – stir fry – there was no Oil residue either. 
The blast of Flavour from the Vegetables took me aback. At 
Five large pieces of Haddock, in a Spicy Batter, were accompanied by two Dips and a Salad/Garnish. This was quite a plateful. Each piece of Fish was then halved, further confirming the quantity. The specific mention of – Ginger – had me anticipating a blast of this root vegetable, it came, but later. It was the – Fishiness – which immediately stood out. The Chilli Dip was put to good use. There was another surprise on this plate.
Whoever, dreamt up this combination of Dishes should be congratulated, oh, that’s me!
A Vegetable Samosa, of course, had been cut into pieces and smothered with Yoghurt, I presume, Cumin Seeds and Coriander. Beneath lay the Chilli Sauce and I believe Tamarind may have found its way in here too. Inevitably, the Samosa becomes – soggy – not a favourite texture, but again today, adding to the array. I suspect Chaat Masala had been added here also. I stirred the sauce to combine all the elements, tasty. Much appreciated.
Score out of ten? – asked Pratap.
This was unexpected. Late last night, Mr. O’Leary’s airline informed the Hector that there is a strike at Charleroi Airport, today’s fight cancelled. Rebooked for tomorrow, the challenge was to find a reasonably priced hotel at short notice, anywhere in 
16.00 CET, 15.00 BST, is Hector’s preferred time to eat. If ever the half kilo could be managed, this should be it. I stood just beyond the counter waiting to be recognised as a sit-in customer. A chap invited me to choose any table in the otherwise empty restaurant. The lady, who was clearly today’s hostess, was dealing with departing customers.
The menu at Afghan Darbar bears an uncanny resemblance to the 
Drink?
Given my perspective, I must have been sitting in the 
A chap placed a chit on my table as he brought a Modest Salad, Raita and more Flatbread than I could eat in a week. The Bread was cold, given my increasingly expansive knowledge of Afghan outlets, that’s how it is. This Bread was tough around the edges but manageable in the middle. Had it been Naan, I would have been celebrating three pointy ends. Much Bread would go to waste. I put this down, in part, to the lack of communication. 
Everything was hotter than everything else, care had to be taken not to touch the actual karahi. The Tomato-based Masala was close to that 
The Spice Level took me by surprise, then I noticed the sliced Green Chillies which had not been cooked in, but stirred in towards serving. The Seasoning was well pitched, not as noticeable as last year when it was the immediate standout. 
Was this as 
Brugge, the final full day of this trip, and Dr. Stan has declared an interest in joining Hector for Curry. 
Indian Tandoori (Oude Gentweg 11, 8000 Brugge, Belgien) became my chosen venue for the day. Located in the south-east of the old town, away from the main Grote Markt, Indian Tandoori appears to have been bypassed by too many. It’s a small restaurant, seating thirty. Book in summer.
The Garlic Naan was served quartered, what is wrong with serving Bread – whole? Thin, risen in parts, some blisters, the Naan was suitably light. Instead of Garlic Butter dripping off, grains had been cooked in. This would prove to be acceptable to Hector’s palate and did not overwhelm the Curry. 
I had warned Dr. Stan that European Curry Houses are going to have way more Cream in their Saag/Palak than he is used to at home. Dr. Stan acknowledged the creaminess on its arrival. He worked his way methodically through the pot of Curry, alternating with Rice and Naan before taking most of the remaining Rice. I wasn’t hearing any – Mmmms – today, but this was not a Desi Curry House. 
It was tender meat in a creamy spinach sauce, with subtle spice and flavours.
The handi was piled high with a Thick Masala, this is what I had previously seen, and was my reason for choosing Indian Tandoori. The copious flecks of red made the heart sink. Just how much 
Five decent sized chunks of Fish were arranged over the Rice. There would be plenty of eating here. I separated some of the red flecks then realised, thankfully, that the majority were actually sliced (cherry?) Tomatoes, which had also been cooked in. 
A photo of Ram and Manish was taken, then Chef made an appearance. Well, why not? 
Update September, 2025
If it’s Monday, it must be 
Finally, on this trip, the Hector gets to see his Belgian Fanta in all its glory. No sooner had I got myself sorted when the food was brought to the table. We’re talking seconds here. If one is taking Karahi seriously, this should not be so. 
Included in the price, enough Bread to last me a week, a modest Salad and a Raita. A Flatbread, not a Naan, it was still light, puffy, impressive. The major drawback, it was cold, as in this is how it comes, cold. I don’t know if anyone has ever tried eating cold Bread with hot food, it might catch on. 
In what way was this – Karahi? 
Going back for more glorious 
Entering Chanab Tandoori at 13.30, one customer occupied a table to my left, whilst a chap was finishing off at the bench table along the right side wall. A quick glance, a larger room next door looked to be more inviting. Others thought so too.
As with many a Curry Cafe, the food was on display in kettles. Research had now raised the possibility of Hector having a Desi Korma on consecutive days. The photos in the online menu revealed Lamb Korma (€10.00) showing no sign of being the – creamy, mild – variety. I showed the photo of yesterdays 
Belgian Fanta, the paper cup may not prove the case, previous posts do, so much tastier with less colouring than the rest of Europe. How, why? 
The wait was not long, in fact not long enough. Just what current preparation had been done to produce what was brought? For once, the Rice portion looked almost sensible. Or did it? 
The appearance was completely wrong. A Desi Korma should have a Masala, rich in appearance with an oily sheen, and the merest threat of being creamy. This was Lamb Shorva. I would like to see their Mutton Curry (€10.00) for comparison purposes. 
Hot food, a good start. The Shorva packed a punch, so much Flavour coming through. There was no doubting this was down to the Seasoning which was totally a la Hector. The soft Meat was not giving back more than its own Meatiness, however, each intake of Shorva soaked Rice had Cloves to the fore. The intensity of Flavour had me won. A thought, this style of Curry was close to a traditional Aloo Gosht. Had Potato been present I would be nominating this for prizes. Who wins awards? 
I introduced Curry-Heute to the chap who had served me. Immediately another chap appeared, Mein Host – Umer Darz – whose photo it is on the menu. The serving chap did all the translating for both his boss and the first customer sitting in the room. The Calling Card was well received, the extent of my travels appreciated. Yes, the Hector does travel to the ends of the earth looking for Desi Punjabi fayre. 
One day I’ll find a DB-ICE that will actually run all the way between 
The double take describes my reaction on entering the premises. Gone is the long counter and the somewhat dingy décor, instead, well, a transformation has taken place in the last year. There was a shiny new 
Mutton karahi (€12.95) has been my go-to Curry at
On the return to my seat I took two cans of Orange from the fridge, no Belgian Fanta available for Hector yet. Two cans, I’d had nothing to drink all day. The first, despite the off-putting colour, disappeared in an instant. 
Topped with fresh Coriander, the Masala had the correct oily sheen. The slight creaminess was visible therein. I decanted the boneless Meat, ten large pieces. This meant that the remaining Masala had to be described as – minimal. Not enough Masala to engage all the Rice then. Should I ask for more? That might set Curry-Heute back a decade. Two whole Chillies were revealed. 
The much hoped for Citrus Blast, from the Yoghurt, Chefs assure me, was spot on. The Seasoning was well below the Hector idyll, a pity – the rules – did not permit the use of the Salt mill on the table. With so much Flavour from the Masala, this was not an issue today. 
Busy as I had just made him, Shahzad was keen to catch up, he knows Dr. Stan, Marg, Howard. How were they? Why was Dr. Stan not here today, yes why? 
Moments later, a Side of – Tori masala – was brought to the table. Some may find the Oily Masala off-putting, the slimy Texture also. A new experience, and an Interesting Vegetable is always appreciated. 
Arranged upon the remaining virgin Basmati, it became clear that in no way was Hector going to finish the Rice. The Flavour took me back sixty years. This Masala must have been simply made with Curry Powder. Whether it complemented the Desi Korma remains debatable, it did prolong the experience. 
In my search for the 86 bus stop, I passed Comte de Flandre Metro station. Lines 1 and 5, another way to get to 
A day in 
On the assumption that Lamm Cutlet (€14.00) could be even better, I asked for this. Nein. Lamm Filet Curry it would be. A half litre bottle of Sparkling Water (€2.00) completed the Order. The conversation, mostly one way, so maybe not strictly speaking a conversation, was in Deutsch. Anna manifestly has less English than Hector has Deutsch. 
On 
As is ever the case in Europe, the Basmati was the dominant feature on the tray. The Curry was decidedly Lamb Shorva, as thin and watery as a Masala could be. 
The piece of Poppadom was set aside, there were more interesting things to deal with. Top right was the same watery Daal as served in 
The accompanying small bowl had another version of the – Spicy Sod – plus pieces of Green Chilli just in case that wasn’t deadly enough, more Tarka, then Yoghurt, the means of diffusing the situation. Spice Level could be adjusted, with care, to one’s own desire. 
With the Lamb Curry spread across the left hand side of the Basmati, the Shorva mostly disappeared. That which remained, bottom left, would take patience to relocate. There was enough to confirm that the Seasoning here was definitely low. Having already established that this was not the major source of Flavour before me, I was left to wonder. In 2003, Marg and Hector toured 
Cold food, an inevitability, spoiled the end game. I prefer a plate to a metal tray. 
There was nothing here not to like, it simply could have, should have, been so much more. 
