Bamberg – Samrat & Spices – Modern Indian Kitchen & Bar – Gaslighting?

Located a block to the north-west of Schlenkerla, Bamberg’s finest source of Bier, I became aware of Samrat & Spices – Modern Indian Kitchen & Bar (Obere Sandstrasse 32, 96049 Bamberg Deutschland) last year. It seemed too good to be true, a pukka restaurant serving Indian Food and earning great reviews, in Bamberg! In 2022 it was given the swerve, today, well why not?

Sources, various:

This is my absolute favorite Indian restaurant in Germany and had a great experience.

The ambience and the food was great. The staffs were friendly. !

The menu, the decor, the ambiance will definitely remind you of India if you have alreday (sic) been there or stayed there.

Having been to India and also dined in a few hundred Curry Houses across the planet, the Hector is mystified as to how this venue could achieve such positive ratings.

My Curry was rank.

Arriving just after 14.00 I was greeted and sent to a small table between two larger ones. My then vantage was in full view of an elaborate bar. The menu confirmed my original impression, Samrat is as much about selling booze as food. I had to wade past the cocktails to reach the Curry.

To my left was the inner room with some stunning wall decoration. A large group of Asian diners had this, the rest of us were sat in the entrance room. With Indian staff and Indian customers, all was set up to be … well, we’ll see.

Drinks were sorted first, a 0.75l bottle of Aqua Morelli Frizzante (€6.50).

If Samrat operates as a bar-restaurant, then I could envisage customers having drinks with Starters as nibbles and spend a while here. However, I have read of a chap finishing his food and being asked to give up his table. Being early afternoon, everyone around me was here primarily for food. I was about to witness some very strange creations.

The given descriptions for Lamm Vindaloo (€17.90) and Lamm Bhuna (€17.90) listed standard ingredients, no creamy nonsense. Whether or not – Bhuna – was taken seriously is always a good meter for a first visit to any Curry House. All main courses are served with Salad and Rice.  All Bread to be paid for.

The young chap who appeared to be the head waiter brought his pad and took the Order. I enquired as to Spice Level:

Normal – was the somewhat abrupt reply.

So, no alternatives then?

Having taken my photo of the pretty blue bottle, I settled down for the wait. Wait? There was none. My Curry felt as if it had arrived in a puff of smoke. Another young chap had brought the food, oh, that’s how we’re serving it then?

The Salad, more German in style, was deceptive. Beneath the adornments lay a mass of Lettuce, hardly inspiring. With the Rice to one side of the plate, it felt logical to rearrange it. As ever in Europe, there was more Rice than a Hector would manage.

Lamm Bhuna

A Creamy Masala, why? At least it had a decent level of viscosity, but this was hardly – Bhuna Dry. Ginger Strips and Coriander formed part of the elaborate Toppings, these would be mixed through on decanting. The Meat count reached double figures, there was certainly enough.

The Seasoning registered first then immediately dissipated. In its place was an alien Flavour, not from any Spice listed on the menu, nothing known to the Hector. There was a slight Tang, but no sign of Pickle. The Taste was somewhere between Sour and Bitter, potentially horrible. What on Earth had Chef added to this creation? Vinegar seemed to be a possibility. Allowing myself the benefit of moving forward an hour, the – afterglow – suggested Cabbage. Vinegar and Cabbage, who would ever combine these?

I tried some of the remaining Masala on its own, the unpleasantness was less apparent, but eating this Curry was certainly going to be a chore.

As unfortunately has to be accepted in the world of Mainstream Curry, the Tender Meat gave back no Spice. Today this might have been a blessing. The – normal – Spice Level was maybe below – medium. The challenge in this Curry was not the heat but overcoming the fear of up-chuck.

The Seasoning returned, other Flavours did not emerge. Garlic, Coriander and Cumin were listed in the given description, plus Garam Masala which of course could be Chef’s creation. What Indian Chef passed this Curry for muster? I was determined to make enquiries.

Meanwhile, on my right, a young lady had ordered Lamm Seekh Kebab (€17.90). The solitary Seekh Kebab was large,  served in pieces and sat beside the most complex array of Ballast ever seen. How else could they justify this price? To my left, another customer had a plate with flat patties and again Ballast, hideous.

I stuck my head into the large room to see the décor, impressive, but taking a photo would have been intrusive. The waiter who had taken my Order presented the Bill at the bar.

The Bill

€24.40 (£21.37)

The Aftermath

I handed over the Calling Card and introduced Curry-Heute.

Your Curry was totally different from anything I’ve ever eaten.

This was the lead line to the hoped for discussion.

Sorry, no English.

Abruptness understood. 

2023 Menu extracts

Posted in Samrat & Spices | Comments Off on Bamberg – Samrat & Spices – Modern Indian Kitchen & Bar – Gaslighting?

Bamberg – Himalayan Indian Food – The Other Side of The Tracks

Bamberg is for Bier yet the number of Bamberg Curry Houses continues to rise. Bamberg may not match the plethora of Curry Houses found in nearby Erlangen  but is catching up.

Once upon a time there was only Swarg, in the heart of the city, the newcomers tend to have spread themselves out across various neighbourhoods. Himalayan Indian Food (Pödeldorfer Str. 39, 96052 Bamberg Deutschland) is one of three across the railway where tourists tend not to cluster.

Having enjoyed an outrageously wonderful Lamm Desi Korma in Berlin earlier in the week, it was time for Hector to put on his other Curry reviewer hat. Himalayan Indian Food is back in the land of Euro-Curry, the phenomenon of serving Curry the Chef thinks the locals can manage, no Desi/Apna here.

Arriving at 13.45 around ten people were making their way out. Presumably they had enjoyed the Mittags Buffet (€10.90) which is great value. Alas, the Curry here was Chicken/Vegetable, not what the Hector sought. The Pakora did look impressive, not the flat stuff which prevails in these Lands.

The charming Hostess directed me to a table in a recess sitting opposite another solo diner who was nearly finished. Having established I was not having Buffet, the extensive menu was provided. A half litre glass of Sprudel (€2.70) was ordered. Sparkling Water is cheaper than Bier, not something to assume in this part of the World.

Duck is often a feature of German Curry Houses, almost tempting. Had I spotted that Fish Vindaloo (€14.90) was served in a South Indian Masala I would have gone for this, too late. The usual Hector Mainstream fallback – Mutton Vindaloo (€14.50) would be a reality test, served with Basmati-Reis oder Naan/Roti. For Hector, it had to be Rice.

Shall I translate something for you? – asked the Hostess.

I assured her there was no need, the language of Curry is universal.

With the Order placed I took in my surroundings. A few other diners remained in the main seating area. With the 14.30 end of shift looming, I was the last a la carte customer. The Buffet accommodated the rest.

Inclusive Rice, in a Euro-Curry House, the karahi was brimming with Basmati. I took a plateful, the rest was discarded, wasted.

Mutton Vindaloo

Behold the Soupy Curry. Strips of Onion and Syboes floated on top of the thin, yellow Masala. One piece of Lamb broke through the surface. The absurdity of the moment was duly noted, this was the style of Curry which the Hector avoids at all costs. Add to this the prior acceptance that this interpretation of – Vindaloo – would feature Coconut. No Potato in a Vindaloo?

The Meat count reached double figures as I decanted, two tiddlers. Now for the Sauce. Having smothered the Mutton I was still left with a bowl of – Soup. The leftover Rice would not be touched, if I didn’t have more Sauce then it would look as if I had hardly touched my meal.

Creamy with a kick – was the first tasting note. The Coconut had not overwhelmed. Thankfully, this Curry was not sweet. The lack of complexity was apparent, not the usual array of Spices. However, as I ate on so a level of respect would develop.

The Mutton was soft but still required a degree of chewing. As anticipated, the Meat was not giving back Spice, how long had it and the Masala been in each other’s company?

Peppery, a wee kick, far from being – Vindaloo – strength if one accepts this as a level of measure. The Hector was missing his Aloo. Biting into a Green Cardamom, there was a micro explosion on the palate. A new Flavour therefore, a more complex Curry than first thought. A piece of Root Ginger was encountered, another sensation, the Hector was becoming impressed. Then there was the Seasoning, this was pronounced, the big box ticked.

I was offered more Rice!

As the Masala separated slightly on the plate, so there was a watery residue. I was missing my Oil slick. I spooned more Masala on to the plate, must use it up.  I was actually enjoying this, a significant change from my preferred style.  This was a well Seasoned Curry, and with the Flavours duly released, crucial to enjoyment.

Creamy, not too Spicy, Marg would have loved this Curry. How she would have managed the Masala with her customary Chapatti is another issue. This Curry required Rice, mountains of Rice.

Was that OK? – I was asked at the conclusion.

Removing the Euro-Curry filter, then, yes, it was – OK.

The Bill

€18.00 (£15.77)

The Aftermath

Being a few minutes after 14.30, the Hostess was free to chat. I mentioned my perception that Seasoning is as important as Spice. She totally agreed, and why not. Her husband is from India and that is his current locus. I mentioned the increasing number of Curry Houses in Bamberg, and the catching up with Erlangen. In acknowledging this she said that some are serving Indian and Italian cuisine. Bella Tandoori has been previously reviewed. Her husband visits Curry House in Erlangen, which has been reviewed oft. There is served Desi Curry which often is the Saltiest Curry served anywhere.

Back to Curry at Himalayan, it was pointed out to me that the locals like to dip their Bread in the Soupy Sauce. This is something I had never considered. I have been given many a shake of the head at home when considering Rice with a Dry Curry. Dry, north Indian/Punjabi Curry requires Bread, Soupy demands Rice.

Curry for the locals, if this is what they want, then so be it.

2023 Menu

Posted in Himalayan Indian Food | Comments Off on Bamberg – Himalayan Indian Food – The Other Side of The Tracks

Berlin – Punjabi Zaiqa – Blutige Hölle – Achtung, Scharf!

As satisfaction was not being achieved on Saturday at Rickshaw & Co (Glasgow), there was comfort in the knowledge that today the Hector would be back in a happy hunting ground. Punjabi Zaiqa (Tromsöer Strasse 6, 13359 Berlin Deutschland) was first visited 51 weeks ago, today was Visit #6! Here they serve the real deal – Originale Pakistanische Küche – is their tagline. This is not Curry for the masses, but then is Curry-Heute not about encouraging people to try different places and authentic Curry?

Those who keep up with these pages, and I thank all who do, even Dr. Stan who sneaks a look especially when he knows he gets a mention, will know that Curry in Berlin has been a somewhat frustrating experience over the years. All change. Transformation, and better awareness on my part, means that as the Bier scene has significantly improved, so has the Curry. Is there more to life? Ah yes, the travel too. Today, Moiz who is currently turning Karahi Palace into Handi By Darbar (Glasgow) admired my Curry and reckons that he too should start a Curry Blog and replicate Hector’s hobby.

13.00 was the originally declared time for anyone who wanted to join the Hector, Steve considered this to be too early. When he suggested 15.00, Dr. Stan reckoned his vast Frühstuck would be digested by then. We would be three, Steve’s first visit. After last night’s excesses at Bräugier, I doubt if I would have done a Curry justice at 13.00.

My fellow diners arrived at 14.50 and placed their Orders. Knowing the system, Dr. Stan ordered what he knew the Hector would be having: Lamm (Desi) Korma (€12.90), with included Rice. Steve played it safe: Lamm Karahi – Ohne Knochen (€16.90). An honourable sum, but no Bones? At Punjabi Zaiqa, on-the-bone is €2.00 less. To this, he added a Garlic Naan (€3.00).

Again leading the way, Dr. Stan had helped himself to a bottle of Mango Lassi, Steve, a can of Fanta. They were sitting at the far end of the spacious room when the Hector arrived at 15.01. Adnan greeted, on Visit #1, the Hector made sure that Curry-Heute would be recognised. Spicy – was agreed, Dr. Stan reportedly had asked for – Medium.

A modestly priced litre bottle of Fanta was too good an opperchancity to turn down. Dehydration needed addressing. Taking my seat at the far wall, the table felt a bit distant. The tables could be moved, we didn’t try, a recipe for stained trousers.

When he brought the necessaries, the young waiter brought a Salad. Topped with Rocket, not for Hector. My fellow diners nibbled the minutes away.

As expected, my Curry arrived moments after the others’. The Naan was a realistic size, risen, puffy, Poppy Seeds featured to one side. With Karahi it has to be Bread, Rice remains the preference for Desi Korma. As is the European way, a mountain of Rice was presented. It’s amazing how they can serve so much when it’s inclusive, yet at home we pay over the odds, for what? The Hector took a good portion, Dr. Stan proved he could eat even more, Steve didn’t touch his allocation.

By the end we had made a good hole in the pile.

Scharf – said the young waiter as he placed the karahi on the table before me.

Maybe that should have been – Achtung, Scharf!

Lamm (Desi) Korma

Strips of a notional green something or other sat atop the Curry, the karahi was filled to the brim. I stopped counting the Meat at double figures, no frustrating – Tapas – here. At Punjabi Zaiqa, the portions are huge! So were the lumps of Meat, many on-the-bone, some without. The Desi Korma does come with the – Ohne Knochen – option. Dr. Stan said he was offered – Boneless with Cheese. He knew better.

The Masala was sufficient for the quantity of Meat, and maybe Rice. It’s all about ratios. As ever, I retained some Masala for the end to ensure all had not been absorbed by the Rice. I could not tell if this Masala had been blended, it looked wonderful.

Bloody Hell! – entschuldigung.

My pleasure had to be announced, instantly. Wow? – this was – Wow-plus! I refuse to give number ratings to Curry, it’s all comparative. Black and white maybe, a Curry either has it, or it doesn’t.

The Flavour in the Masala quite simply astonished. The richness, the intensity, the Seasoning. QED. Only after the palate was flooded with the complex array of Spices did the heat hit, and it hit hard. Achtung! Many could not have handled this. Then there’s the recognition that venues which do serve a Curry with this level of Spice-heat, tend to lose the Flavour. As any idiot can throw Meat on a grill, any Curry Chef can chuck in Chilli Powder. Today at Punjabi Zaiqa, this was not the case, perfection.

I studied the Masala some more. Flecks of something white, Garlic presumably, were complemented by fresh Curry Leaves and and more flecks of green, an unknown Herb. The distinctive – Desi Korma – Flavour was here, I always get a hint of Citrus. Having experimented with replicating this – King of Curryat home, I still know not from where this comes. The secret of Mace/Nutmeg?

I hadn’t even started on the Meat.

These were cuts I couldn’t recognise, no Sucky Bones, no Ribs. One bone stood out, Chapatti John may know. Soft, Tender Lamb, full of – Lamby – Flavour, some bits giving more, a couple surprisingly – Dry. Most pieces could be tackled with a fork, I had to resort to using a knife for the final three, then fingers. There’s nothing to beat getting tore in. The Spiciest Korma ever encountered, the Hector was truly stuffed at the end. Bloody Hell – yes I had to say it aloud once more. There were two runny noses, yet there was no duress. This was how to both Spice and Season a Curry.

From across the table was heard a series of – mmmmmsThe Good Doctor was sharing the experience. This was only his second visit to Punjabi Zaiqa, he knew what to order. Stan was finding his – Medium – to be Spicy also. No prisoners.

Very rich and spicy – began Dr. Stan – full of different spices, tender meat.

Well that says it all.

Lamm Karahi (Ohne Knocken)

Having seen his fair share of – kilos – I think Steve was taken aback by the sheer quantity of Meat on the flat karahi. The same green Herb was accompanied by Coriander and a swirl of – Yoghurt? The Dry, Thick and absolutely Minimal Masala shrouded the Lamb. One would need a microscope to find the Oily residue. Despite the lack of bones, this looked magnificent. I shall have to keep this photo to hand and wave it in front of waiters and ask it their Karahi Gosht looks like this, or the plate of Capsicum and Soup, or worse, Stir-Fry, that the Mainstream dish out. This was authentic Lahori/Punjabi Karahi Gosht.

Steve certainly enjoyed the finest Curry he has ever had in Berlin:

It was a beautifully spiced Curry. Hot, lots of different spice experiences all over the plate. The meat was slightly dry. Very good, I would come back.

Well most certainly, now that he knows where Punjabi Zaiqa is.

Three views on Punjabi Zaiqa. I still have not managed to get my Berlin friends to come here.

The Bill

€16.40 (£14.31) For mine, we paid separately.

The Aftermath

As I was paying, I spotted the expired Lunchtime Menu. Maybe sharing a Karahi and an Aloo Gobi (€8.90) could be one for the future. That means a 13.00 start.

Posted in Punjabi Zaiqa | Comments Off on Berlin – Punjabi Zaiqa – Blutige Hölle – Achtung, Scharf!

Glasgow – Rickshaw & Co – Euro-Curry, served in Partick

A Tapas venue in the West End, here we go again. After the visit to The Lansdowne last week, Dr. Stan reminded me that I had yet to review Rickshaw & Co (9 Partick Bridge St, Partick, Glasgow G11 6PN) which has been open about a year. A Curry-Tapas venue on consecutive Saturdays, not exactly what the Hector seeks, but as has been written – for the sake of completeness. At the start of this week, Marg and Hector were indulged at the wonderful DumPukht Lahori, the Southside, where authentic – Desi Curry – is served.

Located behind the Three Judges, which itself was formerly The Tower Bar / Bennett’s, the Rickshaw premises appear to be a new build. The Springwell Tavern may well have occupied this site back in the day, others can fill in the last fifty years.

With the tiny Curry Pot around the corner, and – the must get back to Little Curry House at the bottom of Byres Rd., Partick does not do too badly for Curry. Usha’s Indian Vegetarian on Partick X has, not unsurprisingly, gone.

Arriving at 13.15, the Hector was the first customer of the day, by 14.00 we were nine. The staff outlined the Vegetarian Tiffin (£11.50) and Non-Vegetarian Tiffin (£13.50) to these customers. With – Chicken – as the Meat, Hector had no interest there.

The charming waitress offered – water for the table. Instead, the order for 330ml of Sparkling Water (£1,95) was placed. A pukka glass, we are in the West End.

Finger food – was mentioned on the menu, Hector prefers to have his dinner.

Listed under – Chef’s choice – was Lamb Lahawab (£8.50), a Curry yet to feature in these pages, maybe one day.

Lamb Handi (£6.95) could be more representative of the Masala served at Rickshaw, a free rein for Chef. To accompany there had to be an Interesting Vegetable.

Desi Bombay Aloo (£5.95) ticked the box, the humble Potato is often an excellent inclusion in any Curry.

Classic Naan (£2.50) was nearly the choice of Bread. On spotting Methi Paratha (£2.95), it had to be.

Dismissed was Aachari Lamb Chops, possibly the most expensive Lamb Chops in Glasgow? Hopefully, affordable and abundant Lamb Chops Achari will feature in these pages at the end of this month, unless Dr. Bernard vetoes.

I take it I won’t see masses of Capsicum in the Handi? – I asked the waitress.

She confirmed no Ballast, then asked:

Do you have an allergy?

No, I just cannot stand Capsicum in Curry!

Nobody ever asks me why, regular readers know.

The food arrived after an appropriate wait. As with last week, a small dinner plate.

The Methi Paratha was served in a Tiffin tray, in five pieces. Wholemeal, slightly toasted, there were but flecks of the glorious Herb mixed into the dough.

The parameters which define a quality Paratha have been written oft: thickness, layering, flakiness, the spiral, buttery, none of these were present. This was not a Paratha as is recognised in Curry-Heute.

Desi Bombay Aloo

Potato wedges, this was different, sat in the seemingly not Soupy Masala. Finely chopped Onions had been added to the presumably blended Masala. Flecks of Coriander had been stirred in. On transferring to the dinner plate, the Masala did run, so Soupy then. The quantity of Potato justified the price, a decent portion for – Tapas. Finger food, not.

Lamb Handi

The Masala appeared to have a better consistency, again finely chopped onions were mixed in. I counted seven, respectably sized, pieces of Meat as I squeezed this Curry on to the empty part of the plate. Avoiding cross contamination was the name of the game. The Handi Masala initially appeared to be darker, on the plate, hard to spot any difference.

The all important first dip of Paratha into the Bombay Masala revealed no blast of Flavour. Mildly Spiced, was sensed. The receptors awaited, something, anything. The level of Seasoning was approaching the non-existent, ergo what chance the Curry? The Potato had not absorbed Flavour, well what was there to absorb? How long had they been in each others company? The whole point of Potato in Curry appears to have been missed.

The Handi Masala fared no better. Again, the lack of Seasoning was the culprit.

The waitress came over to ask the customary question.

The lack of Seasoning was duly reported.

I’ll let the Chef know – was the response.

A Black Cardamom was unearthed in the Handi Masala, a whole Spice, there had to be something happening here. I started to question if the taste-buds were actually working. The Lamb itself I could taste, one hopes for more, but had the Masala permeated, it had so little to offer.

There was something upsetting, whatever was registering on the palate was not what the Hector seeks, yet was becoming familiar. Deutschland, came to mind, Euro-Curry, I have had this too often, Curry as in what Chefs think people like.

The mass of food on the plate remained considerable. Time to abandon the Bread. Then the penny dropped.

The Wholemeal flour in the Paratha was overwhelming everything else. By abandoning this shockingly poor Paratha, which was already turning crispy, the taste-buds were invigorated. I could taste Lamb Curry! An improvement, but the lack of Seasoning meant there was no way back.

Having called it a day, I returned to the Sparkling Water. The palate rinsed, so an array of Spices emerged. The Paratha had masked these, still no Methi blast. The experience was nothing like as intense as last week’s – Afterglow – at The Lansdowne.

I have to accept that the Mainstream Curry Houses serve food pitched for the masses, thankfully not everyone knows of Glasgow’s Southside Curry Cafes, oops. I found it hard to believe that what was served today was from a Glasgow Curry House. In Europe, one tends to review from the perspective of the Curry being second division. I do not expect to make this adjustment in my home city.

The Bill

£17.80

The Aftermath

It was the same waitress who had dealt with me throughout the visit. She once again apologised for the lack of Seasoning. Having introduced myself and Curry-Heute, I then went on to define what makes a Paratha.  Sorry.

Not a good day for the Hector. I feel a Desi Korma calling, where can I source one?

2023 Menu

Posted in Rickshaw & Co | Comments Off on Glasgow – Rickshaw & Co – Euro-Curry, served in Partick

Glasgow – DumPukht Lahori – A Bright Light on Paisley Road West

A timeous return to a favourite Curry Cafe was required. Marg and Hector arrived at DumPukht Lahori (39-41 Paisley Rd. West, Glasgow G51 1LG) at 17.25, Aqeel, Mein Host greeted with:

Hi, Hector!

Six chaps were feasting at our usual spot, the far corner became ours. Aqeel started to recite our Order as he approached the table, however, I was keen to confirm the menu had not changed in the last six months. It hadn’t.

A kilo of Lamb Lahori Karahi (£34.99) it would be. A Roti (£1.50) for Marg, a Till Nan (£2.99) for Hector. For reasons not fully explained, Til Naan was not available, Aqueel promised – something.

Salad was mentioned and declined before Marg had her say. Aqeel was on his own, why waste his time with the frivolous? The six chaps were still receiving top-ups, I can state with confidence that they had not shared three kilos.

Hot plates were provided, just as well there was no Salad. It took Aqeel thirty minutes to work his magic.

The Roti was pale, standard for Glasgow’s Southside. Hector’s Bread was half Naan half Roti. Hot and glistening, this proved to be a soft, worthy Bread. More than the norm would be consumed.

Lamb Lahori Karahi

Glorious! The mass of Lamb on-the-bone was shrouded in a pulp-like pale Masala, no – Red – here. Coriander Leaves, Green Chillies cut lengthwise, and Ginger Strips were abundant on top. Actual liquid was at an absolute minimum, once settled there proved to be no Oil slick.

Let’s get tore in!

Peppery! This was as close to Namkeen Karahi as one could find without ordering it as such. The Seasoning was astonishing, right up there – brave. Salt and Pepper the fundamental ingredients of this simple Karahi. Simple? I’ve tried, this takes a special skill.  Some Green Chillies were consumed, many were abandoned, there was no need to change the nature of what lay before us.

No Sucky Bones, no ribs, from where this Meat came I know not. There was something with the appearance of a Lamb Chop in there.  It was evident earlier this year that the actual quality of the cuts has improved since the early days of DumPukht. Nothing – offal – here. Beautiful Lamb, giving back so much, the antithesis of Mainstream Curry.  

The Masala was so pale a brown it was grey, pulped Tomato, I assume.  The ratio of Masala to Meat was spot on. This Karahi was giving as much pleasure as could be hoped for, yet there was still no – wow – moment. Maybe this Karahi was very much as expected. Aqeel can cook.

When Marg’s Roti was finished, she stopped eating Curry. Whereas, Hector stopped eating Bread to ensure the completion of the Curry.

It became apparent that we would manage the kilo without Takeaway. As I savoured the final mouthfuls, so Marg was considering Dessert, no ice-cream on the menu.

Marg declared that after Keema, this style of Curry is her favourite. So much for my varied – Home-cooked – efforts. Looks like I’ll have to have another go.

Having gone up to enquire about Dessert, Marg returned to the table with the promise of Chai which Aqeel was preparing for – the six.

Milk with Tea and Sugar (sic), not for Hector.

Aqeel’s lady helper arrived around 18.00. On seeing Marg’s empty plate and Bread basket she was keen to clear up. Hector had to stop her in her tracks, ritual photos required.

I could make out enough of her subsequent Farsi(?) conversation with Aqeel to confirm that she was reporting back.

You like your food – was her observation when the table was finally cleared.

The Bill

£38.50   Complimentary Chai.

The Aftermath

Hector is famous – Aqeel informed his assistant – not a new customer.

Well, maybe here. Hector was here in March 2020 a few weeks after DumPukht opened. We all know what happened thereafter.

Posted in DumPukht Lahori | Comments Off on Glasgow – DumPukht Lahori – A Bright Light on Paisley Road West

Glasgow – The Lansdowne – Deep in The Afterglow

Amit Sharma @ The Lansdowne (7A Lansdowne Crescent, Glasgow G20 6NQ), is one of three Curry Houses north of the river which Hector has yet to visit/review. Tapas appears to be the major theme, not how the Hector prefers to dine. The Lansdowne is another outlet in the Mother India chain. Chains, to what extent do individual shops differ? In terms of Mother India, there is only one venue which features in Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses.

As one who unashamedly favours Glasgow’s Southside Curry Cafes, this was a case of having to visit, for the sake of completeness. OK, go on, impress me.

With irregular opening times, today’s 13.00 did suit Hector’s Saturday schedule. Arriving at 13.35, I thought I was the first customer of the day, but no, The Glassroom, a conservatory at the rear, was slowly filling. A party for weans, just what the Hector did not order. As it happens, this was the best managed babies/toddlers event ever experienced in a Curry House. Sucking on Poppadoms may be the secret. The Hector has suffered through the years, the parents usually to blame.

As I was led to the rear of the premises adjacent to the kitchen, I was surprised to see every table set up for dining. I had assumed that this was a reimagining of The Lansdowne Bar which I visited in the 1980s, but maybe that was on the west side of the crescent?

Various menus were provided, wine dismissed, as was the Saturday & Sunday lunch (£16.00) offer. Street Food / Tapas – featured prominently in the main menu, not why I was here. Two sections featured Curry of interest: Fish & Seafood, Some Old Glasgow Favourites. Boatman Fish Curry (£16.00) is one for another day. South Indian Ginger Lamb (£14.00) should guarantee the avoidance of both Chicken and Capsicum. Old Glasgow Favourites? Some of us are – old, Chicken aside, how many of these featured on any Curry menu back in the 1970s?

To accompany, Rice, to be discussed. Wonderful as they might be, the Hector was not paying £4.25 for a Malabar Parantha. Such is the price of Bier, I wonder how many people come here for nibbles and stay on for the evening? Maybe I just don’t understand the setup.

For Hector, a large bottle of Sparkling Water (£4.25).  The Order was relayed, I enquired about the Rice. Basmati, Fried and Lemon & Cashew a la Mother India’s Cafe were the options. Had Marg been here, it would have been the latter, I stuck with Plain Rice.

How to get some photos? The chap behind the bar acknowledged as I took the broad shot. The Rogues’ Gallery did not feature any recognisable faces. Hector knows no rogues?

Just how many does The Lansdowne seat? This place is spacious, enormous.

A hot plate, the size more suited to Tapas, was brought by another of the many staff on duty. Pile it on then.

The sensibly sized portion of Basmati was served in a tiffin tray. Every grain was decanted to the hot plate. The plate may have been small, however, given what followed it was much appreciated.

South Indian Ginger Lamb

The sliced Red Chillies were different, the distinctive aroma of South Indian Curry was already wafting towards the Hector receptors.   It all looks a bit – lonely. The plate resembled a flat karahi. The area was such that the Masala spread thinly across the base. Had this Curry been served in a more standard karahi/handi then it most certainly would have appeared to be – Soupy. Without the dinner plate, adding the Rice here would have been a major negative. Adding Rice to Curry is a – no-no.

I counted to nine as I arranged the decent sized pieces of Lamb on the Rice. As is the custom, some of the Masala was retained for the end game. Before me sat a potentially worthy meal. Meat and Masala, maybe I was already wishing there was an Interesting Vegetable in there.

The South Indian smokiness was present, but subtly so. A slight tanginess made me think – pickle – momentarily, no, Tamarind/Mustard perhaps. The Seasoning was particularly – low – and unlike recent reports, the lips did not register more as I ate. The Spice Level from the Masala was not challenging, when the Chillies were taken, this certainly altered the perspective.

The Tender Lamb was quality Meat. As is typical of the majority of Mainstream Restaurants, the Meat and Masala may not have been in each other’s company for long.

Mein Host, the manager I established later, came over to ask the customary question.

I described my appreciation of South Indian Curry and its distinctive Flavour.  For once, Chettinad was not quoted.

He reaffirmed my choice of Plain Rice, the added Flavours in the alternatives would have contradicted the Flavours in my Curry.

I ate on, the spare Masala being used to revitalise the remaining Rice. More Masala, the irony of the Hector posting this, would have been appreciated at this point.

The plate was cleared, every grain of Rice managed, a Curry to be enjoyed, however, it would be remiss not to state that the Flavours here were not as intense as those found in other venues serving South Indian Curry, north of the River Clyde e.g. Bombaywalla’s Sukka/Chukka – this was not.

The Bill

£20.75  West End prices.

The Aftermath

It was yet another staff member who dealt with the payment and who therefore received the Calling Card and thus heard the introductory spiel. The burning question had to be asked: is all the food cooked on the premises? A valid question when dealing with a Mother India variant. I was assured it is, and as he spoke so Chef momentarily appeared from the kitchen. Chef, but not Amit Sharma.

The Manager was identified as he headed back to The Glassroom where the many were being ably catered for. A pity, so many more questions. One day, perhaps.

Waiting for the #6 Bus on Great Western Rd. into the city centre, I could not believe there is presently only one bus route between Anniesland and Cowcaddens. There is the Subway and the train I suppose. Anyway, there was the realisation that I was still enjoying my Curry. When South Indian Curry repeats, it confirms why this style is a winner. The afterglow, indeed.

2023 Menu

Posted in The Lansdowne | Comments Off on Glasgow – The Lansdowne – Deep in The Afterglow

Hector Cooks – Beef Karahi

Dinner for one – what’s in the freezer? An unusually large portion of leftover, cubed Roast Beef, and Tomatoes which were frozen before the trip to Hellas/Italia. Curry-Heute – and why not? This also gave the opperchancity to try using the Nutmeg and Mace that were purchased a bit since. These new additions were ground together. Bay Leaves, Cloves, Coriander Seeds, Cumin Seeds and Black Cardamom would remain – whole, no Cinnamon. Kashmiri Chilli and Turmeric were the powdered Spices, oh, and some Garam Masala for later.

Finely cut Ginger and Garlic Paste were added to the hot Oil, followed by the Whole Spices.

The halved Tomatoes were then placed in the flat pan and left to cook for some ten minutes. I have previously found the the skins from frozen Tomatoes comes off more easily. Today, a Tomato-based Masala, no Onions, no Chillies.

Thereafter, the Tomatoes were mashed and the powdered Spices stirred in.

The cooked Beef would never have the time to absorb the full Flavours of the Spices/Masala. Hector cooks restaurant style Curry?

Methi, we need Methi!

And some Yoghurt.

Timings: everything so far was as required to create the Masala and see the Oil separate. The lid was put in place, the mix left on a low heat to given the Beef a chance, another ten minutes.

Frozen Coriander was stirred in, a further ten minutes of cooking.

The result was a red-rich Masala with the texture of pulp, does this define – Karahi?

Finally, the first tasting – Salt, a la Hector.

Basmati was the accompaniment. No Interesting Vegetable, had there not been so much Meat, I would have considered Potato.

The thick Tomato-based Masala Mash was something to be proud of. The Hector is getting better at achieving this. The Seasoning was well pitched, of course. The Spice Level was not overly demanding, this Curry was not about – heat – but trying to create something that differed from the Hector norm.

Nutmeg never mind Mace, are unknowns. I couldn’t tell what the individual Flavour of each is. What I had achieved today was significantly different in Flavour. Instinct had told me to leave out Cinnamon, consequently the first Spice I could identify was Clove. Clove, which identifies many a Manchester Curry.  The Herbs further added to – the familiar.  Behind this was the new.

Yes, I could get used to this. Whatever I cook typically tastes like a Hector Curry. Every local Takeaway tastes like a Clydebank Curry. Something different, and enjoyable, at last.

The negatives

Once I started eating the Beef I remembered this was from a joint that was particularly tough. Today, a mammoth amount of chewing. Mammoth might have been more tender. No Interesting Vegetable, how lazy.

Posted in Hector's Cooking | Comments Off on Hector Cooks – Beef Karahi

Glasgow – Village “Curry House” – Thirty Days Later

One month to the day since my last Achari Gosht (£12.95) at The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA) the Hector was back for more. Expectations were high, last time the intensity of Flavour hit the – Wow! – level. No pressure then.

After investing a ridiculous £4.00 to park on Centre Street, we entered The Village at 13.15. There would be eleven fellow diners in the course of our Monday lunchtime visit. The muzak was louder and different today, it sounded as if we were being called to prayer. There was no sign of Omar, a young waitress would do the honours. Only the great value  Lunch Menu was on the table.

Marg, wary of doing further damage to her top lip, would have Mince Curry as part of the Lahore Lunch (£7.95) deal. This comes with an option for two Chapattis and Vegetable Pakora. Mushroom Rice (£3.50) always works well with a Village Curry. A 750ml bottle of Sparkling Water would complete the Order.

I asked for – on-the-bone and Desi style.

That will be very spicy – was the advice in response – will you manage that?

I’m a man.

This always winds up Marg, if nobody else.

Seriously, I had just ordered a Dish from the Main Menu without seeing it. Did this not imply that I had full awareness of the situation?

Vegetable Pakora

The Pakora arrived almost in an instant, three pieces, two large. Hector’s share was much appreciated. Warm-hot, with a decent Spice Level, fresh and tasty, how I have missed this.

This was enough to amuse before the main event.

The Order was assembled on the table. Cold plates were the last to arrive.

The Chapattis were in the style of the preferred: traditional – Tawa cooked. Marg only required one of the two. The Mushroom Rice bowl was so hot it was dropped on the cold pate as I distributed the contents. The Rice itself was tasty, the Mushrooms a bit – iffy. I’ve had better fresh Mushrooms. The quantity always looks to be meagre when compared with the absurdity of a European serving of Basmati. The reality, every grain would be eaten, an elegant sufficiency therefore.

Achari Gosht

I counted the Meat well into double figures, no skimping here. An isolated Sucky Bone stood out, four more would be revealed, one rib. Quality Lamb – evidently.

The Thick Masala was far from excessive, enough, it matched the Rice portion. Has somebody actually sat down and worked this out?

Warm-hot once again, piping hot food at The Village is comparatively rare. This would take the edge off the experience. The Pickle came across, but not as intensely as last month. Maybe back then, Omar had a special word with the Chef?

The Hector is also in a period of recovery from the sublimely intense Desi Lamb Methi enjoyed at Annaya’s (Helensburgh) on Saturday. I knew that would be a hard act to follow, I chose today’s Curry in the hope that it might compete.

The Seasoning was a la Hector, the Spice Level far from demanding. Beautiful Meat, beware of the Mushrooms, enjoy the Pickle. Ah, this time, the base Village Curry Flavour was not apparent as it was last month.

No – wow – today, but I set the standards high. Hotter food and more Pickle may have achieved this, a Village Curry is not to be criticised severely.

Still way better than the Mainstream.

Mince Curry

The smaller karahi for the lunchtime menu, you get what you pay for. The dark Lamb Keema with Coriander stirred in, had minimal Oil collecting on the periphery. A spoonful crossed the table. The Seasoning was instantly apparent. That my Achari had even more Flavour was also realised. Marg likes her Keema, though today no Aloo or Mutter.

Tasty, salty, plenty coriander, a good hit.

The Bill

£28.35

The Aftermath

Mr. Baig, Mein Host, had come out from his office to take payment.

Surviving – was how he put it. The overheads are have been issue since the cost of everything inflated.

We’re just back from Greece, I shouldn’t tell you, but I’m going to: in the Athena Desi Curry Houses, a half kilo of Mutton Karahi is €6.00 including Naan.

He doesn’t know how this is possible either. I did admit it’s not the best of Mutton.

I suspect the sheep are not slaughtered, they die of old age.

The breeders – was his conclusion.

(For the record, it is known that sheep have to be slaughtered around the age of five, their teeth fall out, they can no longer eat.)

Posted in The Village "Curry House" | Comments Off on Glasgow – Village “Curry House” – Thirty Days Later

Helensburgh – Annaya’s – A Methi Blast!

As storm Babet draws to a close in the East of Scotland, the West remains remarkably calm. A dry day in Helensburgh, always worthy of celebration.

Five years have passed since Hector and Marg dined with Alan and Tracy in Helensburgh. Annaya’s (80-82 West Princes St., Helensburgh, G84 8XD) remains the – go-to – venue. Have they dropped – Grill House – from their moniker? There have been sporadic visits with former colleagues and Howard in the interim, but still it’s two years since my last Helensburgh Curry.  

The booking was for 19.00, three of us were punctual, alas Marg was delayed due to a hospital visit. The first hockey related injury of 2023, just the four stitches, on the upper lip…

Rocky, Mein Host welcomed his regular customers, he did the double take on seeing the Hector. Yes, two years since the last visit.

Drinks were sorted, a Saturday night, Bier (£4.25). Sparkling Water (£2.95) could take a back seat, though on her arrival Marg did order a bottle. I had ordered Marg a Mango Lassi, much appreciated.

Dips, and a mountain of Poppadoms were brought by another waiter who clearly has an ongoing rapport with my fellow diners. The accompanying Chilli Dip was brought to our attention. Not that demanding, and totally lacking in Seasoning, bring on the Mango Chutney. No Tamarind. Alan mentioned his preference for the European Poppadoms, with embedded Cumin Seeds.

Only half of the Poppadoms were eaten. We did retain the pile, Marg advised that she could – suck on one.

I know what you’re going to have – Alan informed me.

Desi Lamb (£14.95) was on the – Special Menu – board. Alan was quite specific:

Desi Lamb with Methi, on-the-bone, extra Seasoning.

Guess who reads Curry-Heute! Evidently, Alan has honed this menu variation over the years. 

Rocky recorded the Order, he added – Spicy – twice.

Tracy was having Chicken Tikka Malaidar (£14.95), Marg had Maliadar (sic) Sagg when we last dined here together. The erstwhile typo has gone, Malaidar it is. Chicken being charged at the same price as Lamb? Cheeky.

Starters were announced. Not for Hector, a Mince Paratha (£4.95) had caught the eye. Not managing a whole one was predicted, so no point killing the appetite. Alan and Tracy would share Fish Pakora (£7.95).

Two Chapattis – declared Alan.

Which one? – I had to ask to maintain the accuracy of the report: Tandoori (£2.50), Buttered (£2.95). Alan didn’t know which one he usually has. I suggested he order one of each for comparison purposes. Done.

Fish Pakora

Six large pieces of Fish in a Spicy Batter, served – hot-hot – and definitely for sharing. The Hector declined a piece but did secure a Soupçon. Hot and freshly made, when Fish Pakora is served thus, it is magnificent.

This Fish Pakora was magnificent.

*

*

Rocky had explained that the Buttered Chapatti was cooked on a Tawa, the other, in the Tandoor. The latter is what I am used to being served on Glasgow’s Southside, the thinner Chapatti is my favoured version. And so it was with Alan and Tracy.

The Paratha was not huge, just as well. It was packed with Keema, brown Mince, cooked properly. None of the pink donner-like nonsense here. About three-quarters would be eaten. A change from my norm.

Chicken Tikka Malaidar

Marg reckons that in the flurry of group photos being taken on Alan’s phone, the Hector was distracted. There is no photo of this Curry, and no review. It was a Chicken Curry anyway.

Desi Lamb with Methi

Hot plates, hot food, always a good start. Topped with Ginger Strips and sliced Bullet Chillies, this was – the business. I counted eight pieces of Meat at the start, three on-the-bone. A standard portion at Annaya’s. Around the halfway point I counted again, six left. This was  a large portion therefore, and with the extra Keema, the Hector had quite a meal.

The Masala was dark and thick, the Herbs content was exactly what I seek: a Masala with Methi, not a mash of greenery.

The – Methi Blast – was instantaneous. Methi, where have you have been? This was glorious. The Spice Level was enough, not demanding, but noticeable. I marked the Seasoning as – low – at the start, but had to revise this as I made progress.

Hector is back in the land of quality Meat, tender, soft, Lamb giving of Flavour. The depth of Flavour was beyond anything I’ve had of late. A rich Curry, the restaurant price felt fully justified. Alan assured me that with regards to this Dish – I’ve had it better. Just how good can it get?

This Curry is going to be a hard act to follow.

The Bill

£104.80  Maybe  all should have had Sparkling Water?

The Aftermath

The leftovers across the table became Takeaway.

and so the Saturday night continued…

Note – anyone thinking of heading to Karahi Palace (Glasgow), it is closed for renovation and transformation into Handi by Darbar.

Watch this space.

Posted in Annaya's Indian (Grill House) | Comments Off on Helensburgh – Annaya’s – A Methi Blast!

Hector Cooks – Shan Korma

The mission continues, to cook a Desi Korma at home as good as say Karahi Palace used to serve, and Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin) currently do. It was on my last trip to Berlin where I picked up packets of Korma Spice Mix. Curryspondents had previously made me aware of the Shan – Korma mix, a good place to start.

The ingredients were assembled, no Tomatoes, and 300g seemed a lot of Yoghurt. The cooking instructions, written in many languages both inside and outside the box, as ever had a glaring omission. Much was made of cooking the 300g of Onions and removing them, but only 60g would ever be returned. With the ingredients of the mix not in English, and no mention of Seasoning, discretion would be required. Determined not to make a – bland Korma – Green Chillies would be added.

The finely chopped onions took an age to turn – golden. The detailed instructions, for this part anyway, took me through the removal from the Oil, setting aside, then crushing, not blending. The results were not – crispy Onions – but an approximation of what I have in abundance – Dry Fried Crispy Onions.

Next time, I’ll save the tears and start with the Dry Fried Crispy Onions, which are used regularity in other cooking, great for thickening.

A kilo of Chicken, well I wasn’t risking the waste of Lamb. The quantity of Yoghurt added lots of liquid, the half cup of Water was included regardless.

The Chicken was given a good half hour on the low heat, one can never be too careful. Still, the Masala was too wet, no more water was added as instructed. Instead, the Dry Fried Crispy Onions I had looked out for comparison purposes went in, much better.

A decent Masala Mash was created. Whole Spices were revealed, Green Cardamom and Peppercorn. Given the self imposed rule, the Seasoning had to be tested before serving. Not bad at all, no more Salt required.

Boiled Rice is my favoured accompaniment for a Desi Korma.

Three of the six Chicken Thighs looked like a portion. This was possibly my first Chicken in a month. We know what’s coming next.

The Chillies had certainly upped the Spice Level, as now expected the Seasoning was fine. Clove and Cinnamon came across strongly. This, and the Whole Spices gave an air of efficacy, however, the Desi Korma Flavour that I seek was not there. No Citrus.

Chicken skin absorbs, the Meat does not. Yet again I ask, is there such a thing as a Chicken Curry?

For the next branded box of Korma Spice Mix, Vegetables.  The humble Potato, always a better solid.

Posted in Hector's Cooking | 3 Comments