Manchester – Kabana (Cheetham Hill) – Bateera – It’s Wednesday!

It’s Wednesday in Manchester, the opperchancity to have Bateera (Quail) at Kabana (Cheetham Hill) (133 Cheetham Hill Rd., Manchester, England M8 8LY). Strangely, none of the rest of The Company were attracted by the thought of – fiddly Quail, some went to Kabana original instead.

Before committing to the twenty minute walk from Ancoats, the Hector thought it best to confirm that Bateera was on today having been disappointed once previously. Rizwan confirmed it was so last night, a phone-call to Cheetham Hill at noon arranged a portion to be retained. Belt and braces.

As we passed Lahori Badsha where we had an excellent Lahori Karahi yesterday, a new addition to this Northern Curry Mile was spotted Lahori Butt Karahi. That’s a venue for a future trip.  I can now confirm that Dera, the place with the tractor outside further up the road, has gone.  Our last visit was in October 2019.  Since the passing of Covid I have been unable to make contact.  Today, I established the rebranding – Royal Manchester Restaurant – it’s all happening on Cheetham Hill Road.

Arriving at Kabana CH at 13.50, Paul was busy arranging a massive Takeaway, his assistant recalled my name when I asked for Bateera.

A foil container was produced, evidently Takeaway had been assumed. A reheat was arranged and the order given for a Chapatti (£1.00) and two Samosas (£1.50) for Marg, one Meat, one Vegetable.

I was pleased to see abundant – foliage – on the counter, on Monday the main Kabana had run out of Coriander, not that I shall keep mentioning this.

The Samosas were plated and taken over to Marg.

Samosa

An average size, and looking a bit naked without any Salad or Raita, just a snack. I had declined – Sauce – at the counter, the thought of smothering the Samosas did not feel right. Ahead of the game, Marg thoughtfully took the photos of the interior of each Samosa.

The Meat one was dry with a good flavour of Keema. The Vegetable one was very moist and spicy with potato, peas, plenty vegetables.

Having completed the foliage ritual at the counter, I took my booty to the table. The large Chapatti was layered. The Wholemeal flour proved to be potent, a powerfully flavoured Chapatti. Also filling, I would manage about half.

Bateera (Quail)

The Thick, Blended Masala had quite a – kick – the added Green Chillies would take this up another level. There was a definite Sweetness to the Masala, it is not known if this was a by-product of having encountered the Quail. With the Masala scooped into pieces of the Chapatti this was satisfying in its own right.

How do people sit down to five Chapattis? Marg told me a chap sitting at the window had ordered Seekh Kebab, multiple Chapattis and a main course. Maybe the latter was finished, the Starter and the majority of the Chapattis were abandoned.

Meanwhile, two chaps sat in my view with mains, Chips, Biryani, and Naan. Again, mass wastage. I felt no guilt when I had to leave half a Chapatti.

Quails are fiddly, one is not enough, two are surprisingly satisfying. Or, is it the thought that tackling a third would drive one to distraction? The Texture is different from Chicken, at least the Hector is convincing himself that this is a much more Gamey experience, much tastier Meat.

Salty lips – the second time in a week I have noted this, however, this was whilst I ate. That the Seasoning was at a decent level can therefore be confirmed.

What appeared to be so little certainly filled the gut. The sorry sight of the skeletons piled on the adjacent plate turned to amusement when one tiny – wishbone – was set aside. And no, we didn’t.

The Bill

£11.00

The Aftermath

The serving chap called me by name once again, always a nice touch. The seating area was nearing empty as we departed, Takeaways were still flying out the door. Why don’t we have places like this in Glasgow?

This was Visit #5, Kabana CH deserves its own page and its place in Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses.

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Manchester – Lahori Badsha – The Magnificent Seven

The invitation was extended, those wishing to join Marg and Hector at Lahori Badsha (140 Cheetham Hill Rd, Manchester, England M8 8PZ) should meet in the lobby for 13.00. To share a kilo of Fresh Lamb Karahi (£25.00) requires multiples of two or three. We were seven: two kilos – not enough – three kilos – too much. Marg would make the formula simpler by opting for Lamb Chops (£8.50), an opperchancity to have five to herself.

Dr. Stan and Marg set off on foot whilst Hector sorted an Uber for five. The advance party arrived at Lahori Badsha at 13.10. Mein Host and Chef: Nasar Ullah Khan Raja – to give him his Sunday name, recognised the Hector.

Only one large table was free, we spread out and waited a considerably long time for the table to be wiped. If there is a fundamental criticism to be made at Lahori Badsha, it’s about the slow service out front, cutlery for example, was very much an afterthought. When Marg and Dr. Stan arrived they were given menus, the rest of us had to twiddle our thumbs.

*

In time, the Hector got to work.

Two kilos, four Naan (£1.00) and Lamb Chops. Some dared to question the Bread order. Knowing what comes, this should be enough. With no Keema Naan on offer, Clive accepted the flow. Water was also ordered, the first of two – two litre bottles – (£3.00) was presented, sneaky. A jug or two would have sufficed.

We were seven, however, eight plates and glasses were brought to the table. Salad (£2.50) and Raita (£2.00) followed, but not the means of dispensing. The Lamb Chops then arrived leaving Marg to go in search of cutlery. By the time the Salad reached my end of the table the Karahi was ready to be served.

Fresh Lamb Karahi in Lahori Style

The first kilo was placed between Hector, Steve and Maggie. There was that brief moment when we looked at it and wondered, is this actually two kilos? This was a lot of Meat. The second kilo and the Naans, some halved, were placed at the far end of the table. Dr. Stan would be sharing with Clive and Howard. Chef monitored the proceedings. I wonder how often he has had to prepare two kilos simultaneously.

Ladies first, and so Maggie was first to be in raptures, but only after she went through the ritual of fearing all might be too Spicy. As if. This was Maggie’s first ever Manchester Curry, what a place to start.

With Naan, Salad and Karahi arranged on the plate, it was time for Hector to get stuck in.

Wow!

This was only the third time I have mustered enough people to justify the kilo at Lahori Badsha . After today, I believe there should be no problem with numbers. Lahori Karahi, the – King of Curry, today’s was truly spectacular.

The Meat was astonishing, apart from my final rogue piece, it was melt in the mouth. The Flavours from the pale, Peppery Masala flooded the palate. What a texture. Tomato-based one assumes, it was difficult to tell. The occasional Tomato skin was visible, but the telltale seeds were not prominent. As always, the Hector was mesmerised, how do they make this? The texture can be replicated, but this depth of Flavour?

Having taken a decent portion, it was back for more. Steve and Hector ensured the karahi was wiped clean. Not much attention was being paid to the action at the other end of the table, too far to tell if Dr. Stan was uttering his usual – Mmmm.

In our trio Steve stopped eating first. Maggie was right there at the end for the final spoonful. Three sharing was ideal, two would have been excessive.

Maggie had avoided the sliced Bullet Chillies, she therefore had no issue with the Spice Level. The Seasoning was spot on, not intrusive at all. I apologised for bringing my friends here and putting them through this ordeal. I was forgiven.

Steve concurred, this was the best Lahori Karahi we have experienced at Lahori Badsha .

In the course of the day, quotes were secured:

Steve – succulent meat, wonderfully spiced, no complaints.

Maggie – amazing meat, too many green things, I gave them to you. Half a Naan was plenty, the Salad was adequate, plenty of flavour.

Clive – lovely, tender meat. Spot on spicing. Lovely consistency of the juice, could not be called soupy by any means. Could be a bit more imaginative with the Naans.

Yes, Clive could have eaten a whole Keema Naan today.

Dr. Stan – a really good Curry, good selection of spices, very rich, and the meat was tender. Yes, I liked it.

Howard was as eloquent, as ever:

It was evident from the very first taste that this was an excellent Curry. The sauce had flavour and a perfect spice level. The lamb, for the most part, was soft and elicited its own superb flavour.

This was not the end of Howard’s decree, the Hector had been duped.

Lamb Chops

Reasonably well-fired – was Marg’s verdict. A lot of Meat on the Chops, tasty.

With the Salad and Raita, Marg had quite a plateful. The fifth Chop was on offer, but the Hector had no room. I encouraged Marg to have the fifth, the only chance she might ever have. Little did the Hector know, but sleight of hand was at work.

Howard had the fifth Lamb Chop!

The bone was even returned to Marg’s plate to maintain the illusion.

The Lamb Chop had its own separate, but distinct flavour and was an excellent addition to the main act – remarked, my friend…

The Bill

£68.50 There was no charge for the Salad and Raita which made the £6.00 for water bearable. We agreed £12.00 a head for those who had Karahi, and paid individually in a combination of cash and card.

The Aftermath

Whilst the payment was being sorted, Chef produced his phone. Hector’s profile on a certain social medium was displayed. We are friends.

As we departed, Marg drew my attention to the gas stove where the pressure cookers were performing.

We had  devoured their afternoon quota of Lamb, time to cook more.

How long is a – Whistle?

 

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Manchester – Kabana – A Symphony of Flavours

The Company – are  mob-handed in Manchester this week. Whilst many will head to Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England) over the next few days, Marg and Hector made Kabana the first calling point after check-in at Ancoats.

Arriving at 15.20, Rizwan, Mein Host was out back, Lalaa, his able assistant was ready to serve us, but the Man himself magically appeared.

The usual? – asked Rizwan. This was confirmed, plus Keema Peas (£6.50) and a Chapatti (£1.00) for Marg. Marg’s – usual. Both the Karahi Lamb (£6.50) and the Rice (£2.00) have gone up by 50p since my visit last month.

On taking a table mid-room it became apparent that English was not being spoken at the adjacent occupied tables. A range of European languages were heard, people are discovering Kabana. Two kids were tucking into Chips, not the awful boxed, frozen impersonators that many venues serve. These Chips were huge, flat, and even made from Potato.

Rizwan brought the Order as the components were ready. Kabana is fast food, only the Chapatti had to be fired. The Chapatti had risen, and was delightfully light and fluffy. The two bowls of – foliage – were brought from the counter, no Coriander, Kabana had run out. Disgraceful, what greedy customer(s) had excessively smothered their Curry with this fine Herb?

Do you need the Chillies on top? – asked Marg.

It makes it a challenge – was Hector’s reply.

Karahi Lamb on-the-bone  / Rice

The naked Curry had to be dressed.

When Rice is ordered at Kabana, it’s a matter of how much food can one get on the plate? Double figures – is only a rough estimate when counting the Meat. The Meat to Masala ratio is such that one has to manage the latter when having Rice. Kabana is the only place I have Rice with Karahi.

The quality of the Lamb never fails to impress, one day I’ll establish the breed of animal. Cooked to perfection, as always, the – right – amount of chewing was required. Despite the quantity, Hector would not be exhausted on completion of this Curry.

The mouth feel the Masala creates is one of comfort, so smooth. And if Clove is the underlying feature of a Manchester Curry, then this is but an overture to the symphony of Flavours thereafter. Black Peppercorns were unearthed as I ate, the only sign of Whole Spice.

Marg was amused when I took the Sucky Bone and – sucked – out the Marrow. It’s good to have an audience.

Seasoning and Spice Level is a given at Kabana. The – foliage – adds that bit extra. It’s always with sadness when one reaches the end. Not a grain of Rice was left.

Keema Peas

This was a classic Keema Mutter, no sign of peripheral Oil, and no Masala per se.

Marg did not feel the need to decorate her Curry. With abundant Peas, maybe there was enough distraction from the moist Mince.

A full bowl of well seasoned Keema Mutter. Full of flavour, and one of the best, soft and largest Chapattis, complemented the Curry.

On another visit to our table, Rizwan mentioned a recent article in the Manchester Evening News. The author knew of and had evidently visited all the Northern Quarter Curry Cafes except Kabana. Keeping the best to last? The Lamb Chops (£6.50) were enjoyed here, one Dish the Hector has yet to experience.

The Bill

£16.00 For two, amazing! And that’s after the modest price increase.

The Aftermath

Lalaa is always happy to pose for a photo. I can now reveal that he is in fact – le Chef! Meanwhile, Marg spotted a chap with a proper camera and assumed he was another Blogger. Apparently not, but the Calling Card was handed over anyway.

Why were Marg and Hector so smug as, one by one, the rest of The Company realised that it was late, and they hadn’t eaten?

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Glasgow – Shinwari – Afghan Cuisine : Shinwari, A Name Resurrected

Another Summertime Saturday in Glasgow, The Glorious Twelfth as it happens. Fear not, the Hector is not off to grab a brace of Grouse, however, if someone knows anywhere in this city serving Baterai/Quail without advance notice, do let me know. Maybe Wednesday, next week in Manchester?

The rains have not subsided, the city centre streets remain blocked off, most bus routes are affected. I can only imagine the shock when passengers find themselves speeding up/down the M8 under Charing X to accommodate the cyclists above. So it goes.

At 13.50, across the river, Hector found himself once again in Allison Street. As spotted at the start of the week, what was: Lasani Grill, Al-Anwar, Basharat G’z, Spice Haven, Nan Factory, is now Shinwari. (223-225 Allison Street, Glasgow, G42 8RU).

The dining area appeared to be untouched since I last ate here. Two tables now occupy the entrance area along with a fruit juice bar, yet to be set up. If I was going to engage, out front seemed like a good place to sit.

Ready Curry was on display, one stood out (below right). I took this to be their Chicken Curry (£5.00) as advertised on the board. With a presumably Yogurt-rich Masala, this almost looked tempting, OK a fallback, last resort even,  if my intended Dish was not yet available.

Yes, this was something different.

I found a menu on the counter, the glorious Namkeen Karahi (£30.00) was only available by the kilo. Marg had nearly joined me today, but knowing what awaits next week, decided otherwise. I shall let her down gently. A half kilo of Lamb Charsi Karahi (£15.00) was what was in mind upon arrival. There was no premium for ordering the ordering the half kilo, customer friendly.

A mature chap took the Order. Above medium Spice, not crazy – raised a smile. This seems to work. No Chapattis, a Plain Nan (£1.00) would do. Realistic Bread prices. I noticed that – Nan Factory – is still prominent behind the counter. That incarnation was an offshoot of – Original Khyber – in Shawlands.

My choice of seat was to hopefully engage the chaps working and establish how this Shinwari has come about after the demise of the once nearby Shinwari Restaurant. In all, I counted six chaps working this afternoon, quite an investment at a venue which either keeps failing, or proves to be too much to handle.

Ten minutes after placing my Order, a young chap brought out the Karahi and Naan, then quickly presented an extra plate for the bones, plus a bottle of chilled water with accompanying glass and napkins. How he got all this on the table in seemingly an instant, did impress. A disturbingly quick Karahi, but if the kitchen is set up to produce this regularly, so be it. It doesn’t take that long to create a Tomato-based Masala. Still, the chaps from Guinness Book of Records could be called here.

Sliced in two, the Naan was huge given the price. The Tandoor was within sight of where I sat, but with perforations, the Bread had not been allowed to rise.

I thought I might manage half.

*

Lamb Charsi Karahi

The portion looked to be substantial, but still very much – a portion. How the half kilo is measured has never been defined. The Ginger Strips on top were plentiful, a sprinkling of Coriander sat beneath. The watery residue I have come to associate with – Charsi – was collecting around the edges. The Masala was the distinctive, Tomato based, yet there was not the abundance associated with – Charsi. Not a trace of – pink.

The lack of Seasoning was immediately noted. The Spice Level was never going to be ferocious, but built steadily. Segments of cooked-in Green Chillies were unearthed as I made progress. A Tomato, then Peppery blast hit the palate. The depth of Flavour in a Charsi Karahi tends not to match that of a Lahori Karahi. Tends not to, however, two weeks ago at Afghan Darbar (Antwerpen) a new standard was set for Afghan Cuisine. There was an Afghan Karahi with an outstanding depth of Flavour. Today’s was on a par with what is served in Glasgow.

The Meat was chewy, the majority of the pieces were on-the-bone, two small Sucky Bones and many others. Care had to be taken, tiny bones, dangerous if not addressed properly. The Flavour of the Lamb itself was pronounced.

I was taking my time, the two chaps I had engaged with each asked the customary question. I had to declare my enjoyment, and took the opperchancity to glean some information. Shinwari has been open – one and a half months. After they consulted, I was assured that this Shinwari was separate from its predecessor.

Around the half way mark, judging by the array of bones on the adjacent plate, I had to re-evaluate my strategy. This – portion – was certainly the half kilo. The Bread was abandoned, I had managed but a third of the Naan.

A chap, dressed for the office, entered and dealt with the mail. Meet the new Boss?

Hello, sir! – the Hector had been hailed, but was there recognition? He disappeared before I could engage him further.

In time, I was staring at defeat. I had to eat all the Meat, and got there eventually. The low level of Seasoning maintained, the intensity of Flavour overall was as anticipated. The Oily residue on the base of the karahi plus some Masala Mash would normally have been wiped off, there lies pleasure in the extreme. This would require more Bread, today, not possible. The Hector appetite had been sated. Forty four minutes of eating, exhausted, why do I do this to myself? Salty lips, how had this come about?

The Bill

£16.00   No sneaky Salad, therefore no additions.

The Aftermath

It was a different young chap who dealt with the payment and therefore received the Calling Card. Hector Holmes was in full flow.

The Chef here is the same as at the original Shinwari Restaurant. The owner has many shops, Shawlands was mentioned, – Original Khyber – I assume, Namak Mandi was mentioned oft.  I have a photo of the Chef from my visit to Original Khyber, and I saw him here today. As for Namak Mandi, the chap I know as The Boss from there is not the guy whom I met today. Another case for Hector Holmes who notes that Namak Mandi did not move to their larger premises at the end of last year as announced. One thing for certain, the half kilo at Shinwari is appreciably more substantial than has been served at Namak Mandi.

Menu extracts

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Glasgow – Sheerin Palace – Everything Spicier than Everything Else

With Hector free from kitchen duties this Sunday afternoon, ah well, why not? Sheerin Palace (300 Allison St, Govanhill/Crosshill, Glasgow, G42 8HQ) hadn’t been visited for a while. Having highlighted the opening of their former Chef, Zahir’s – Shahi Mahal– earlier this year to the level of recommendation,  it was back to the roots.

At 13.35, some ladies were queuing for Takeaway, four chaps were sitting in the dining area, awaiting their Order. I stood at the entrance to the dining area waiting to be served. Around six trays of ready-Curry were lined up in the display counter. Aloo Gobi was already in mind, but the words Lamb on-the-bone proved to be seductive. The Chicken Rice would accompany, in effect, two main courses. As ever prices cannot be quoted, is there a board which I keep missing, a menu even?

Cutlery, napkins and Raita were brought in a flash. My fellow diners appeared to be having Kebap based food.

The reheat didn’t take long, eating the mass of food which arrived did. Bread was offered and gracefully declined. Maybe I should try and ask for a half portion of Rice?

Chicken Rice

The Chicken Rice, a Biryani in effect, came with a Salad garnish. Raita was duly applied, the remainder would be useful if I ended up with Dry Rice. There was a powerful aromatic sense of Spice emanating from the Rice. The two pieces of Chicken, also on-the-bone, would be little more than a distraction.

Aloo Gosht

The two comparatively huge lumps of Potato gave it away, this was way more than Lamb on-the-bone. I counted the Meat into double figures as I arranged the pieces over the Rice. I retained some of the Shorva for later, Coriander stems were visible here.

Starting with the Rice, there was a big Clove presence. Aromatic indeed, this was Spicy Rice. The Lamb was suitably soft, and having sat in the Spicy Shorva had absorbed its Flavour. This was Desi Cuisine, and why the Hector favours these modest venues over Mainstream Restaurants. Curry Cafes are also more affordable for the frequent diner.

Lamb on-the-bone, delightful, pieces were picked up and gnawed as required. I dipped some of the Lamb back in the Shorva as I ate, why do I always eat the Meat separately? This was quite a portion of Curry. When I sensed the Spice from the Potato also, I realised that this meal was a collective challenge: everything was Spicier than everything else.

Both serving chaps checked on my progress, Hector is recognised, but still banter has yet to evolve. Whilst I ate, I heard a Takeaway customer order ten Naan. Who needs ten Naan?

Both Green and Black Cardamom were unearthed, it was no longer possible to tell from where. A small piece of Cinnamon Bark then the sleeve of a cooked in Green Chilli were encountered. Whole Spice, classic Curry.

As expected, the Chicken was no more than incidental, filling if nothing else. With bones set aside, then the remaining Shorva poured over the Rice and last bits of Lamb, it was just a matter of choosing when to stop.

I had been eating for some thirty minutes. Time for a lie down.

The Bill

£11.00    Amazing value.

The Aftermath

Alright? – asked the chap who has been here longest.

Excellent, tasty.

And so I headed back along along Allison Street. On passing the venue which has changed names more than any other in this city, there seemed to be more elaborate stickers on the window. What in the past has been a happy hunting ground for Curry:

Lasani Grill, Al-Anwar, Basharat G’z, Spice Haven, Nan Factory, is now Shinwari.

The short lived Shinwari used to be nearby on Langside Road, Hector Holmes is on the case.

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace (New-co #2) – We’re on our way to perfection

Imran Khan is in gaol, Donald Trump is not. Meanwhile in Glasgow, the city centre streets are blocked to traffic due to an ongoing international cycling event. With angry skies, Hector’s personal rain cloud looked as menacing as ever. Still no sign of summer, but the un-seasonal, cool temperatures suit the cyclists.

External forces dictate that Saturday afternoon Curry in Glasgow appears to be retreating towards lunchtime. Arriving at Karahi Palace (New-co #2) (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) the door was open but the shutters still down. Here we go again? Moiz, Mein Host, was in situ, assisted today by the young lady. There was no sign of a Chef.

Are we open? – I asked Moiz who was still wearing his outdoor jacket. Maybe he was just cold. Karahi Palace was in the process of being set up for the day.

Have you a Chef? – I had to ask, an equally important question.

I’m the Chef.

A month has passed since my last visit to New-co #2, then there was The Big Test, to produce Karahi Lamb (£12.00) worthy of a Hector. Then – Dry – was taken to the extreme, the Hector tweaks not yet applied. Today would be another landmark.

The Order was given: Karahi Lamb, a bit extra Salt, some Methi, plus a Tawa Chapatti (£1.00).

You don’t like it – Dry -, do you? – asked Moiz.

Dry Curry is what the Hector seeks, however, a scale of – Dryness – has yet to be established.

Not totally – Dry – not Soup.

The shutters were raised. Moiz got to work, standing in the spot where Ayaz and Chef Rashid have worked their wonders in years gone by. I sat in my usual seat, the lady brought a bottle of tap water and a Modest Salad. I nibbled on the Tomatoes. Decent Tomatoes, these had taste.

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*

It took Moiz twenty five minutes to produce the Karahi and Chapatti. The Wholemeal Chapatti was a welcomed sight, having seen some strange interpretations on my recent travels. A sensible size and with appropriate girth, this would do the job.

*

*

Karahi Lamb

No Ginger Strips or sliced Chillies on top today, just a sprinkling of Coriander. The ratio of Masala to Meat was such that here was – Dry – as I am happy to define it. The peripheral Oil was minimal.

Wow! Moiz can cook!

The Seasoning was spot on, the Flavours from the Spices were a joy, a serious depth of Flavour had been achieved. Clearly this could not be identical to that served here over the years, but this was a new balance of Spice and Herbs, a glorious Lahori Karahi. Moiz may have assembled the Karahi, the preparation before contains the secrets.

In double figures today, the Meat was comparatively on the chewy side, this merely prolonged the pleasure, more Flavour hitting the palate. Two bones, one large – Sucky. Bone Marrow, such a key ingredient.

To provide variation, I arranged the Salad remnants on the side of the karahi, Diversity of Texture, I was loving this. If this standard can be maintained, then New-co #2 will soon earn its place in Glasgow’s Top Rated.

Another Chapatti was brought to the table, this would remain untouched. The Hector might manage 1.5 Chapattis, not today. Moiz admitted to managing 2.5.

Moiz was keen to hear the verdict.

Wonderful! – I assured him – if you get the Salt right, the rest comes.

He concurred. I had to ask how the Lamb had been cooked given that Karahi is an adjustment to pre-cooked Meat. Lamb boiled in Black Pepper – I believe was the reply. Moiz told me he has abandoned – Plum Tomatoes – in favour of fresh. By this I assume he meant – tinned. The technique of removing the skins was not known to him, a well known and reliable Curry Website would reveal all momentarily.

What is becoming the ritual presentation of Green Tea was hailed, and the news given that Moiz had Sparkling Water in his car. Then – The Big News. Chef Rashid is going to teach Moiz some of the secrets. That, I would pay to witness.

The Bill

£11.00 Special Price – declined. Let his father at Darbar Grill round downwards. Karahi Palace New-co #2 has to become established.

The Aftermath

Cooking techniques were further discussed. I showed my – Kitchen Sink Curry – cooked last night, and had to admit, I still cannot attain the Flavour I seek.

Chef Rashid, where are you?

And so to a bizarre bus route, is anything going through the city centre? It makes a change from another Hollywood blockbuster closing our streets. An elaborate system of flags and whistles enabled the public to cross the road.

Never mind summer, can we have our city back?

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Hector Cooks – A Kitchen Sink Curry

Tonight’s Beef Stroganoff was cancelled when Marg announced that she would be fed elsewhere. Having hardly cooked in recent weeks, the Hector felt the need to get back into the kitchen. There would be Curry-Heute!

A third recipe for a Desi Korma has been secured, it features – Mace – a Spice hitherto unknown in terms of usage, and its cousin – Nutmeg. However, the recipe produces a grand meal and tonight Hector was cooking for one.

A modest slice of Frying Steak was meant to complement a larger slice of Rump, however the latter stayed in the freezer. Leftover Roast Potato, and Hector’s favourite – Ballast – Mushrooms, should provide enough bulk. The basic Curry Recipe was as ever the basis for the Masala, thereafter, it was a case of anything/everything goes. The intended outcome was – Curry a la Hector: a Thick, Herb-rich Masala, and if that means an excess of Oil, so be it.

Whole Spice, always satisfying to unearth whilst eating a Curry. Into the hot Oil and slowly mashing Onions went a huge piece of Cinnamon Bark, diced Ginger, Cloves, both colours of Cardamom, Bay Leaves, Dry Red Chillies, Cumin Seeds, and Onion Seeds. I forgot – Star Anise and decided against Methi Seeds and Peppercorns. Teaspoons of the powdered Spices: Turmeric, Kashmiri Chilli, Garam Masala, and decidedly more Salt followed.

I have a bag of frozen whole Tomatoes which may feature in a future – skins-off Masala. Today, back to tinned Tomatoes and Puree plus the rinse of a near empty jar of Ginger and Garlic Paste.

Time for the Mace. Grated Mace, is this the missing link, the secret to creating that Special Flavour that restaurateurs can attain and the Hector cannot? How does one grate Mace? Next time I’ll grind it.

*

*

*

Boiling Steak, why not? In a Stroganoff that is in effect what happens. Twenty minutes should suffice before adding the other Solids.

A dollop of Yoghurt, Fresh Coriander and a restrained dessert spoon of Dry Methi went in towards the end of cooking, everything but the kitchen sink. Actually I have many more unlabelled jars, I even know what’s in some of them. Maybe it’s that time to once again throw everything out and start afresh?

Time to serve, there was enough for two portions.

The Oil quickly separated in the karahi, not so attractive if having Bread, today was Rice. The Rice absorbed the Oil, end of.

Marg bought me a new Rice cooker, the results – stodgy Rice. I’ll need to give this more thought, its predecessor never did this.

 

With the Meat cut small into double figures, there was enough in theory, but the remaining portion should surely have half, so maybe not. The Steak had cooked perfectly, the thirty minutes plus in the Masala had done enough. I like Mushrooms in Curry, so leaving them in lumps always pleases. The Potatoes were simply Ballast, not enough time to absorb. A late night Portion #2 over the coming weekend may be a different story.

The Masala was classic – a la Hector. The Seasoning, tested before serving, was spot on. Consequently, everything else had a chance. How long since I’ve had a full dose of Methi? The Whole Spice set aside as encountered, satisfying. The Spice Level was far from being OTT, in terms of heat, but certainly intense otherwise.

Mace? I do not know what Mace tastes of, but what was apparent, despite being fundamentally a Hector Curry, something had been tempered. Is that what Mace does?

Apart from the Whole Spice, the plate was cleared. Another lesson learned this evening: the clearing of the plate was only managed because I sat at the dining table. When eating from a tray, the appetite quickly wanes.

Having originally been in the mood for Stroganoff, this wasn’t too shabby a Curry.

Methi, man!

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Crawley – Dosa Plazza – A Sri Lankan / South Indian Curry Experience

In the pages of Curry-Heute, Crawley is to England as Erlangen is to Deutschland. Provincial towns with perhaps a disproportionate number of Curry Houses and both covered exhaustively here, as one might expect. It is the final night of this trip and Curry was mooted, Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of this parish know the rule. A new Crawley Curry House was suggested, but being a Monday, it was closed. Two nights ago Clive had marched me to witness another new venue – Dosa Club – whose grand opening is imminent. But surely this is an offshoot of the already reviewed Curry House in nearby Langley Green (Crawley)?

In full Hector mode, Dosa Plazza (8 The Boulevard, Crawley RH10 1XX West Sussex, England) was duly suggested.

Where?

My Hosts were unaware of this Sri Lankan / South Indian addition to their quota of local Curry Houses. Being two minutes from our then locus added to the attraction.

Marg features in this post. She has been enjoying the European heatwave whilst managing to secure a Gold Medal in her European Hockey tournament a first for any Scottish team. Four nights ago, Marg was sporting her Gold Medal (made of wood) at a local Italian restaurant.

We entered Dosa Plazza at 20.00, not quite a restaurant per se, but more pukka than a Curry Cafe. It has been many years since Crawley hosted a true Curry Cafe: Desi Grill & Karahi House. Again, Clive and Maggie had not spotted their opening, but it didn’t last long.

Clive was quick to ask the charming Lady Host how long Dosa Plazza had ben here.

Two months.

This appeased Clive, but not the Hector, why did he not know?

Chettinadu Mutton Curry (£9.00) was on the menu. I had to ask if this was – Soupy – or served with a Thick Masala. A Curry Sauce – was the reply. At least now I knew what to expect. Is there only one Curry House on the planet which serves a Mutton/Fish Chettinad a la Hector?

I then enquired about – Sukka – which I could not see on the menu. After various pronunciations – Chukka – was recognised. Mutton Chukka (£10.99) was listed in the Starters section. This was confirmed to be appropriately – Dry – as it wasn’t last week at Spoonful of India (Brussel). Being a Starter, I declared this to be for sharing, how magnanimous. In reality, the Hector would not risk having this as a Main Course, or being full before the latter arrived. So far so good, things became even better. Plain Parrotta (£2.00) – had caught the eye.

Is this a Malabar Parotta? – was asked in hope, then confirmed!

With Hector’s three components in a South Indian meal sorted, levels of expectation were on the rise, the juices flowing. Less of that.

Maggie continued her Curry House ritual and chose Mutton Biryani (£9.50). Marg firstly announced Butter Chicken Masala (£8.50) then switched to Sri Lankan Mutton (£8.50) which she may have had at source. Why did we not record every meal in Sri Lanka back in 2003, as we did in India in 2016?

Having heard the menu, Clive thought he was missing out on an option. Chicken Kadai (£9.00), complete with the unnecessary Capsicum, became his choice, but only after the Host convinced him that Kadai and Karahi are interchangeable, and also pronounced the same way.

Ah had telt him that already.

I asked that all be brought together.

Given that – Soupy Curry – was established, I suggested that two portions of Pilao Rice (£3.95) might be enough for three. Marg stuck to her Chappati (2PCS) (£3.99) regardless. Normally one Chapatti suits Marg, but hey-ho, they come in pairs. Two quid for a Chapatti, not Curry Cafe prices then? Maggie clearly didn’t need Rice but called for another 2PCS of Chappati. Bread with Rice? Eight quid for four Chapattis? Just as well Keema Naan and Poppadoms were not a feature of this menu.

Sat at a table along the right hand wall, at 20.38, we were invited to move to a larger table opposite given the quantity of food we had ordered. A different perspective, and let’s note the trivia: the jugs of tap water are the same as used at Kabana (Manchester). We needed to know this.

The Mutton Chukka came first, it had reverted to being a Starter.

*

Mutton Chukka

Initially I counted eight pieces of Meat, but this was revised upwards as the four forks returned for more. This was Dry Mutton encrusted with Spice and Herbs, reminiscent of the Lamb Mishkaki enjoyed in the early days of Curry-Heute at the relatively nearby Ram Sports & Social Club. Clive was beside himself back in the day when he discovered this.

Suddenly, the level of Spice was not an issue. The Seasoning and South Indian – Smokiness – was as powerful as hoped for, the Spice unforgiving. This was full on, no prisoners. Right up there with the Sukka which Hector has been enjoying, when the mood takes, at Bombaywalla (Glasgow), and previously at Banana Leaf (Glasgow) before their rebranding.

Success. Did someone eat the Salad Garnish?

The wait for the Mains was not long, we had been in situ for an appropriate length of time.

Two pots of Pilao Rice was more than required, especially with the Bread. One might have been enough, there would be no wastage.

Was Chappati spelled such to differentiate from – Chapatti? These were small, and bore little resemblance to anything encountered in sixty years of Curry eating. The density was remarked upon, far from the light, fluffy, floury, genre served anywhere else. And we had four of them. Hector has cooked better, and Hector cannot cook a Chapatti worth presenting. Three were eaten.

Then there was the Plain Parrotta, sat in all its grace.

At £2.00, the cheapest Malabar Parotta encountered, but they are a rarity. As is the custom they come in this uniform size.

White, light, soft, stretchy rather than flaky, and with the – spiral – visible, I insisted all try this wonderful Bread. This is the king of Bread accompaniments, and of course is the perfect companion to a Sukka/Chukka!

Mutton Biryani

Topped with a whole, hard-boiled Egg, the Rice was almost overflowing from the bowl. I managed to secure a photo of the decanted Biryani, enough Meat?

I did not spot the arrival of two pots, Yoghurt in one which was used today, then the Curry Sauce which went untouched. Meat Biryani is not my thing, and Biryani with an accompanying bowl of Masala may be a British thing. Vegetable Biryani is ordered wherever it is feasible as an affordable alternative to Vegetable Rice.

Maggie managed most of her Biryani, the surplus became the bottom layer in the Takeaway Rice.

Having a Biryani was better because the smoked spices are – whooo! It does calm down. I’d come back for the Chukka.

Chicken Kadai

I have seen many an attempt at Karahi, and sadly, this is another. In what way on this planet was this a – Karahi? Here is the link to one I had but five days ago. That was a Karahi. Why even pretend?

What do we have here? OK, Soupy Curry was promised, and was delivered. A thin Masala with the dreaded, and totally alien, assorted Capsicum protruding is enough to wind up the Hector. Peppers are not part of an authentic Karahi! Do I see BIG Blobs of Onion too? Hold me back. Then there’s the Chicken. However, I believe I saw some Brown Meat in there, maybe all was not lost. Is there such a thing as a – Chicken Curry? In these pages, the answer is typically – no!

Presumably, the Masala had potent Flavour. One can surely order better Curry at Dosa Plazza. Clive was positive, and comparing with the other new South Indian Curry House in Crawley, he was in raptures. Clive and Maggie had a horrible time there. And that’s where they wanted to take us earlier.

That was pretty good. Compared to the high street opposition, nothing can compete – remarked Clive.

This may have been an anathema in terms of – Karahi – but was reportedly packed with Flavour, the get out of gaol card.

The Happy Ending

Enough has been written already to put Dosa Plazza firmly on the Crawley Curry map, the following will have Hector seeking return visits here as and when.

Chettinadu Mutton

Yes we have – Soup – in the way that Indian Mango (München) does not. Dosa Plazza delivered what they declared. Continuing from the Chukka, here was the – Smokiness, Spice and Seasoning! Hector quite simply loves this combination, which is why such outlets are frequented.

Karahi Gosht every day would be dull. Dosa Plazza serve Aloo Gobi (£7.50) too, and the description of the Fish Curry (£8.50) includes both Tamarind and Methi. Hector’s next Order here was being formulated already.

Onion Seeds and Curry Leaves were in the mix, although not visible, I’m sure I was getting Cloves in there too. The Meat was super-soft, well cooked Mutton, which had absorbed the Spices and was therefore giving back the Flavours.

This was a Curry for eating with Rice, dipping the Parotta was risky business. Ah well, home tomorrow, a white t-shirt wash awaits.

There’s more. As Marg was managing her Chapattis and minimal Rice, she decided she had too much Masala, this was coming Hector’s way. I drew a line across my plate of Meat and Rice, Marg’s Masala would form part three of my meal.

Sri Lankan Mutton

Yet another Soupy Curry, but a darker brown, – onion masala – was the given description. Marg pulled out a Dried Red Chilli, aha, the missing link! These I associate most with South Indian Curry, from here comes the telltale – Smokiness. It was a home-ground Garam Masala rich in Dried Red Chillies that got me through Lockdown.

And so I cleared my plate featuring the Sri Lankan Masala. This was decidedly more potent than the Chettinad, just how much pleasure can a Hector have?

Marg’s verdict is in two parts, re the Chukka:

I thought that was stunning! The meat was very tender, and the dry sauce, full of flavour, that was lovely.

re the Sri Lankan Mutton:

Plenty meat, although a thin sauce. It mixed well with the Pilau Rice and added a nice (?) flavour with the Chapatti. I was disappointed with the texture of the Chapatti, not fluffy.

Overall, I was surprised I could handle the heat and found it a worthwhile dish.

Why was Marg surprised? She has been served Curry at home way more powerful than that served at Dosa Plazza. Not that she has particularly enjoyed it. I believe I have written this before, yesterday even.

It is not often I get to wipe two karahi clean, the final scraps of Parotta were put to good use. Not a grain of Rice was left on the plate, just the pile of Curry Leaves.

Aluminium containers were provided for the leftover Rice and Biryani, all went into one.  The – Chappati – was abandoned.

The Bill

£64.37 For four, Curry Cafe prices. How did Clive and Maggie not know of this place?

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was presented, the Sri Lankan entry on Curry-Heute shown. That Marg and I had been to both India and Sri Lanka had to be mentioned. Clive said he has been to India three times, and Maggie, once.

For reasons which may be revealed later in the year, there could be a long overdue return to the Ram Sports & Social Club, which has not featured in these pages since the early days of Curry-Heute. This means that The Downsman may become regarded as – remote. A return to Dosa Plazza is a given, Curry with powerful Flavours, this is what we seek.

Menu

 

 

 

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Ealing – Southall – Gifto’s Lahore Karahi – #1 Southall Curry

After the outstanding Lams Karahi at Afghan Darbar (Antwerpen), Hector was not ready to return to the Mainstream. Curryspondent Bill had long planted the seed to sample Curry in Southall, to the east of Heathrow Airport, in the Burgh of Ealing.  It may be a long way to Tipperary, however, it felt even longer travelling from Crawley to Southall. That the journey was completed in the seemingly endless rain, was not an enhancement. For the last ten days, the Hector appears to have had his own personal rain cloud, faithfully following, and precipitating its menace without mercy. Can we have summer please? It is July, in the northern hemisphere.

Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley were obligingly in tow, neither had ever been to Southall. Bus 427 took us the three stops from Southall Underground station to within spitting distance of Gifto’s Lahori Karahi (162-164 The Broadway, Southall UB1 1NN England). The rain was relentless, the venue suggested by Curryspondent Bill.

We were greeted at the entrance to the vast eatery, seats upstairs too. With lines of long tables, this was very much in the style of communal eating. Covid screens remained in parts, the only segregation. We were all in it together, families, weans, and the intrepid Curry hounds.

The business end of the menu offered a choice of Peshwari Lamb (£33.50) or Charsi Lamb (£33.50). On the assumption that nothing Afghani would match my recent Lams Karahi, it had to be Peshwari. Maggie’s momentary disappearance did hold up the Order. If she was willing to share the kilo of Peshwari Lamb then the Hector was going to add Karahi Kofta (£12.90). On her return, Maggie was persuaded to let Clive and Hector have the – feast – given her assumption that it would be – too Spicy. Maggie (& Marg) persist with this ritual, both can manage whatever comes, they may not particularly enjoy  it, but they can manage. The waiter led Maggie to Karahi Gosht (£12.90) – boneless. Just in case, Maggie mentioned – Yoghurt – to the waiter.

Spice Level was discussed after I mentioned – Asian-style, Desi and Apna.

You want it spicy! – remarked the waiter, duly noted.

With Keema Naan (£4.90) on the menu, this was a given, it’s the first thing Clive asks about when a menu is read to him. I reckoned Maggie and I could share a Butter Naan (£2.30). A jug of tap water completed the Order.

Plates etc. were brought to the table. Two ice-cold sauce bottles, Raita and something fiercer, accompanied. Both remained untouched, as did the large plate of Yoghurt (£2.50) which magically appeared.

From my vantage point I could see the main Chef work his magic at a huge karahi/wok. Whatever – Curry – he was working on was always topped up with a Masala from another karahi – The Big Pot. Given the size of the operation this must have been a necessity. This was Karahi Gosht on an industrial scale, remote from my usual Curry Cafes.

The abundant staff managed to assemble the Order more or less simultaneously. The round Butter Naan was served whole. It had big puffy blisters, this would be enjoyed, an excellent accompaniment, and no Maggie and Hector would not manage it all.

Topped with Sesame Seeds, the thick Keema Naan had been scored in four. The efficacy was bursting through the cuts – brown Mince, none of the pink paste nonsense. Clive would manage all but a scrap. That he can physically eat a Keema Naan alongside, then usually on the completion of his Curry, is a sight to behold. Such was the Keema Naan, I could see Clive sneaking back to Gifto’s for this alone.

Peshwari Lamb

I wasn’t expecting this.

The definite kilo of Karahi was topped with the customary Ginger Strips, sliced Bullet Chillies and a sprinkling of Coriander. The Masala was blended and so resembled nothing I associate with the Masala Mash that usually accompanies a Karahi. I shall stop short of – Shorva – but this was a – Soupy Karahi. Farewell to the pristine, white t-shirt.

Clive was ahead of me in declaring the Meat to be Tender. The Lamb fell off the bone with minimal effort, importantly, this Meat was a – giver – of Spice/Flavour. And, for two, there was lots of it, three helpings.

The Masala had a wonderfully rich Flavour, familiar, a blend of Spices I can never achieve, but – Mace – is now known. Will this dramatically alter Hector’s cooking? All Karahi recipes known to Hector include some Yoghurt added towards the end of cooking, today’s Masala was decidedly more – Creamy. Such was the lack of viscosity, I was tempted to note – Mainstream – but didn’t. Now it is written.

The Spice Level built slowly, the Bullet Chillies adding their charm. The Seasoning was commendable, but nobody was shouting – Seasoning – as was the case four days ago in Antwerpen. Yet, the Flavours were pronounced, a fine blend of Spices, both Clive and I were thoroughly enjoying the quantity and quality of what lay before us. Maggie had a Soupçon, brave. The karahi was scraped clean with the spoons, no more Bread could be faced to complete the job.

The denouement: Peshwari Lamb? Had this been served as a Lamb Desi Korma, I could have been in raptures.

Karahi Gosht boneless

With a Thick Masala, fibre rich in Meat pulp, this was more recognisable as – Karahi.

The darker brown suggested less Yoghurt. Quite a portion, I was impressed that Maggie took care of this with comparable ease (no Starter, she’s learning). The Butter Naan did beat us both. A forkful of Masala came my way. If anything this was more powerfully Flavoured, more Seasoned, more Karahi-like.

No Bones.

The verdicts of my fellow diners, Maggie:

I thought mine was going to be less spicy, same as yours. Yours melted in your mouth, mine I had to chew a bit.

No Bones.

Clive:

The Naan was simply the best Keema Naan ever. It slightly overshadowed the meal which was excellent. They must have been cooking the meat for a week.

Nice (?) place, service was good without being intrusive.

The Bill

£56.10    It took some time to find someone wishing to relieve me of the funds.

The Aftermath

Managers were visible sporadically throughout our visit. I had to give the Calling Card to a lesser chap, it was not passed up the chain before our departure, a pity, questions to be asked.

Menu

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Antwerpen – Afghan Darbar – A Day To Remember, and hopefully be repeated

September 2022, when Hector last had a day in Antwerpen, after a satisfying Lamb Desi Korma at Iman Hallal, an Afghan Restaurant came into view. With a full stomach, all the Hector could do was investigate, and what a revelation. Afghan Darbar (Sint-Gummarusstraat 35, 2060 Antwerpen Belgium) had photos on their menu board for Lamb Karahi, an authentic version, not the nonsense that is served up in Mainstream Curry Houses across the continent. A few photos were taken and the resolve was made: Hector shall return at the first opperchancity. There is no denial that today’s visit to Afghan Darbar was the focal point in all planning of this trip. Continue reading

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