Glasgow – The Village “Curry House” – A Day of Recognition

Last week in Buttenheim, Dr. Stan ordered – Gemüse – as his accompaniment to that which is called food in Deutschland. What was served was not an array of Vegetables as the translation might suggest, but a pot of pureed Spinach. Not appealing, but enough to plant Spinach in Hector’s brain. Once it’s there, it remains until the notion is sated.

The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA) possibly serves the finest Kofta Palak (£11.95) in the city. For the ritual Saturday afternoon Curry-fix, it had to be.

It was already nearing twilight at 14.45 and it was wet, relentlessly so, a lake was forming outside the West St. entrance.

A young waitress showed me to a table, a chap sitting at the window acknowledged me. Modest fame but moments later he cried:

Hi, Mr. Councillor – to a departing group. Way more famous.

The Order was recorded on paper, an opperchancity to bypass the electronica and have my Nan (£2.95) served whole. Duly recorded, as was the 0.75l bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.95) which remains realistically priced.

Medium-hot – was the agreed Spice Level. Hector is home, for a bit.

The silly season is nigh. I counted over thirty adults present during my hour or so here, and numerous weans. There’s always one to shatter the peace. Rather than have the wean scream until it gets what it wants, why not train it, at home, that all is withdrawn until tantrums cease? Then a wean can be considered fit enough to go out and eat in public.

Both Adam and Omar were on duty today, scurrying about serving the unusually busy afternoon shift. Adam managed to come over for a chat. I repeated the Athena Curry saga as told to Mr. Baig, Mein Host, last time. The conclusion was that we are paying too much for Meat in the UK. Why could that be?

It was Omar who brought the Order. I instantly pointed to the superb, shiny, whole Naan.

See, that’s so much better! (…than the pieces served in a basket)

Omar suggested that people want it easier to manage.

The joy of tearing a strip off a whole Bread, simple, satisfying.

Risen, puffy, and with blisters, this was the best Naan I have had in ages. I managed more than half and was almost tempted to take the remnant home. It’s never the same reheated.

Kofta Palak

Five, moderately-sized, Meatballs sat in the thickest of Masala mashes. Serve me this as a Curry with a full portion of Lamb pieces, and I may struggle. In terms of the Meat content, five Kofta is way less than say a plate of Keema. I had considered giving up one Meatball in favour of an Egg. Kofta Anda Palak, the ultimate Meatball Curry experience? I’ve had it here.

Everything was hotter than everything else adding further to the joy of the moment. Strong, Earthy Flavours came from the mass of Herbs, presumably more than just Spinach here. The Coriander topping confirms so. Oil collected to one side of the karahi. Hot Oil, yay, where have you been? The heat in the Oil seemed to supercharge the temperature of the Kofta, I was well pleased at having hot food until the end. Medium-hot, I’m glad I hadn’t ordered above this. The Spice hit hard, one suspects finely chopped Chillies had been rolled into the Kofta, these were giving so much, yet, were a counterpoint in Flavour to the Masala Mash. Moderate Seasoning was noted, no complaints there.

Adam was back, my enjoyment was relayed. I believe The Village to be the only place which guarantees having this available every day, (at this quality, implied). Adam’s response was that other places use tins of Spinach.

Whatever it is that Spinach does, it was doing it, and no needless Cream as would have been the case in mainland Europe.

Having ordered the large bottle of Sparkling Water, there was time to savour the moment.

The Bill

£18.85

The Aftermath

Adam asked where else in Glasgow serves food at the same quality as The Village. A few metres along the street, Karahi Palace is being transformed into Handi by Darbar. It remains to be seen if the upstairs will finally realise its potential.

Other favourite Southside Curry Cafes were of course rhymed off, however, Adam sought a venue with a grandeur comparable to The Village. In terms of Lahori/Punjabi cuisine plus ambience, it has to be Akbar’s.

A few hours later, the table in our evening watering hole was joined by Dr. Jamie who, much to Dr. Stan’s chagrin, started quoting segments from Curry-Heute. This may well have been only our second meeting. Capsicum/Ballast apparently amuses Jamie. Why is this funny?

Dr. Jamie reported that he followed one of Hector’s Curry RecipesLamb Desi Korma – which was based on the classic as served at The Village. Given my recent attempts to recreate this wonder, perhaps I had better go back and review my own interpretation.

Having cooked the Desi Korma, he took it to an event whereby he was challenged: was this actually home-cooked, by him? Dr. Jamie was accused of having purchased his creation at this very venue. So it goes.

If the cranium was not already swelling, an erstwhile colleague of (absent) Howard’s approached the table and addressed me as – Hector Curry-Heute. A day of recognition. Dr. Stan went home for a lie down shortly thereafter.

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Glasgow – Yadgar Kebab House – Late Night Munchies

A Friday night on the Southside, most unusual. As Marg was also nearby, the Hector contrived to arrange a lift home. Just one more thing, a stop-off at Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP).

Although 12.30 is the advertised closing time, the shutters were mostly down at 23.00 suggesting Takeaway only. The ever-present Naveed was in his spot. Two portions of Vegetable Pakora (£3.50/£5.00) were duly ordered. This could well have been the last transaction of the day.

The Bill

£4.50

I was also here to plant seed. It is a long time since The Company were fed – at Yadgar. A grand outing is in the diary for next week. Naveed suggested that 14.00 was a better time to arrive than the planned 13.00 opening time. Shkoor, Mein Host, will be contacted tomorrow. We shall fill the Yadgar coffers.

Fresh – said Naveed as he packed the Pakora. Only one pot of sauce felt necessary.

Twenty pieces of light coloured Vegetable Pakora, they still appeared to have been twice fried. Crispy, a full on delight, the Potato content was on the edge of perfection, another minute would have removed the need to bite in. Anyway, after the horrible Falafel had in Bamberg last weekend, there was no soggy mash here. The Pakora hit the spot, then there was the realisation that the Seasoning was the underlying determinant. Marg offered a few words:

I’m not used to late night snacks. Hot in temperature but spicy in flavour, a real treat.

Of course it was, I paid.

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München – Indian Mango – A Seven Bell Curry

Hector’s fifth Curry in seven days, the Curry-Hound has to eat. The reality is that apart from further exploration and of course maintaining the coverage of my two favourite venues in Deutschland, there is the desire to avoid German cooking. Back in the noughties I started to find it monotonous, better avoided. Curry, albeit occasionally terrible, went down more easily.

There was time for a seven bell lunch before heading to the airport. It was about time the Home Made Mutton Curry with Bone (€14.90) served at Indian Mango (Zweibrückenstraße 15, 80331, München, Deutschland) was appraised.

Despite arriving bang on the 11.30 opening time, Hector was not the first customer, two Indian diners were already in situ. I took the same table as yesterday at the rear of the restaurant, so that my luggage would not form an obstruction. Rakesh, the current owner, greeted. I introduced myself once more, just in case.

 On placing my Order, Rakesh went to check in the kitchen, alas, no – Lamb on-the-bone – was available today. The Fish (€14.00) equivalent was the fallback. I had to raise the matter of yesterday’s Lamm Chettinad being markedly different, i.e. closer to a Bhuna, than served here previously. Rakesh was genuinely surprised. Maybe the days of the wondrous Chettinad at Indian Mango have not gone.

On asking for Wasser mit Gaz, today I was given the 0.5l bottle (€3.90).

Fish on-the-bone, eight years have passed since Mr. Jolly, the founder of Indian Mango, philosopher, musician and more, served me – Spezial Fisch, as a change from Chettinad. That was in April 2015, today also marks the eighth anniversary of Mr. Jolly presenting his book. Will our paths ever cross again?

Rakesh brought the food and started to serve the Rice. I had to interrupt else the ritual photos would not have been possible. The Euro quantity of Basmati reached a new level of absurdity, here was enough for three. Being so early, the appetite was already limited, mass wastage ensued.

Home-Made Fish Curry with bone

The heart sank momentarily, not another Creamy Masala? I convinced myself that the creaminess had been reined in somewhat. Six BIG pieces of Fish sat therein, how I wished it was three hours later. Coriander leaves and stems topped the lot.

A split Green Cardamom was the first thing I bit onto, not the best of starts, but Whole Spice is always a positive. The Spice Level was significant. Finely chopped Green Chillies were encountered in the mix, these and the Coriander stems added to the traditional – grittiness – of the Masala. The Seasoning varied. The, as ever unidentified, white Fish gave off the hoped for powerful Flavour of Fishiness, but no sense of ever having been in the sea. Fresh-water Fish? The Masala carried the load here, sufficient to declare this as a worthy Fish Curry. There were no bones.

Sir, how is your food? – asked Rakesh between serving the arriving customers.

Too much – would have been the obvious answer, but let’s not spoil it for those dining at a more sensible time.

There was no apparent – smokiness – emanating from the Masala, yet the distinctive, and always satisfying, South Indian Flavours were there. The Texture of the Fish was spot on, no rubbery nonsense here. Integrity was maintained, until each of the six pieces was broken up into four or more pieces. Fish, being much easier to chew and digest than red Meat proved to be the ideal solid in this Curry today. Consequently, I might have surprised myself by doing the Curry justice.

Defeat was accepted. What was the Hector doing having a la carte this early? There was a ‘plane to catch, and the lively Icelandic volcano has yet to erupt.

The Bill

17.90 (£15.64)

The Aftermath

With the place filling up rapidly, Rakesh was far too busy to engage further.

Until next year, hopefully.

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München – Indian Mango – Different, but – the New-co is holding its own.

Entering Indian Mango (Zweibrückenstraße 15, 80331, München, Deutschland) and not being recognised will take getting used to. Arriving at 12.40, Mein Host for today took me through to the rear. Sensible, it gave me space for luggage. The 10.17 ICE from Bamberg was too good a price to refuse, so the Hector had an early rise and consequently time to kill before a 14.00 check-in.

The original plan on this trip was to accompany Dr. Stan to Köln and have a night there before flying back to Manchester. Some months ago, Mr. O’Leary had other ideas, a substitute easyJet flight from München became the optimum route home. That’s if ‘planes are flying, another Icelandic volcano is due to erupt at any moment. Curry-Heute was in its infancy when Eyjafjallajökull did its thing. Indian Mango had already established itself as a must visit Curry House pre Curry-Heute. We were at this very venue the day the realisation dawned that we were potentially stuck, in continental Europe. The founder, Mr. Jolly Kunjappu witnessed our dilemma. Mr. Jolly retired at some point during the Covid era, hence Indian Mango (New-co).

The menu has remained the same despite the change of ownership. I didn’t recognise any of the Chefs, nor they me. Fisch Chettinad, the Curry I have promoted here for some thirteen years long disappeared from the menu, but remained available on demand. Today, I decided to keep things simple and have Lamb Chettinad Spezialität (scharf) (€15.90) which, being in Europe, comes with inclusive Basmati.  Mein Host for the day appeared not to be familiar with this Curry on the menu. A 0.4l glass of Sparkling Water (€3.00) completed the Order.

Indian Mango was busy, but then it always is. The Mittagskarte – Lunch Card starting under €6.00 remains great value. Hector always has a la carte.

The quantity of Rice matched that of the Curry. Some years back, I did challenge the quantity of Curry, maybe it’s time to shut up. Anyway, as always, there would be leftover Rice.

Lamb Chettinad Spezialität (scharf)

Fifteen decent-sized, pieces of Lamb were removed from the dark, rich Masala and arranged on top of the Basmati. The Toppings were a threat of Coriander leaves and stems, these were mixed through the Masala before it too was spooned on. It was earlier than the Hector prefers to eat, here goes anyway.

The – kick – from the Masala registered immediately and  kept growing. This was a Spicy Curry. The Seasoning was fine, perhaps a tad below the Hector idyll. Whilst the Flavours were powerful, there was nothing South Indian coming across. No smoked Chilli sensation today. The once super-gritty Texture has long gone.

The first pieces of Meat felt as if they were crumbling in the mouth. Others did require chewing. For the first time in a week, here was Lamb giving off its own Flavour and the Spice. The Meat was therefore bursting with Flavour, this is how Curry should be.

Chettinad? Had the server cocked up the Order, or has the recipe been lost? For me this was a quality Lamb Bhuna, the characteristics were spot on: Dry, Thick Masala, richly Flavoured. If I had been served this Curry at Samrat & Spices (Bamberg) last Saturday, I would have been raving about it. Today’s Curry was still in a different league to anything found in Deutschland, Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin) excepted.

Visits here have, in the majority, been about Chettinad, therefore too good to miss when Geography limits the number of opperchancities. Later in the menu is Home Made Mutton Curry with Bone (€14.90) and a Fish equivalent for (€14.00). Once again, Fish is cheaper then Meat in Europe. A Desi-style Curry in München, maybe tomorrow?

The Bill

€19.00 (£16.60)

The Aftermath

Having squeezed past the throng at the doorway to pay, there was no chance of further discourse. Delivery chaps and Takeaway customers were aplenty. The New-co is holding its own.

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Bamberg – Samrat & Spices – Modern Indian Kitchen & Bar – Gaslighting?

Located a block to the north-west of Schlenkerla, Bamberg’s finest source of Bier, I became aware of Samrat & Spices – Modern Indian Kitchen & Bar (Obere Sandstrasse 32, 96049 Bamberg Deutschland) last year. It seemed too good to be true, a pukka restaurant serving Indian Food and earning great reviews, in Bamberg! In 2022 it was given the swerve, today, well why not?

Sources, various:

This is my absolute favorite Indian restaurant in Germany and had a great experience.

The ambience and the food was great. The staffs were friendly. !

The menu, the decor, the ambiance will definitely remind you of India if you have alreday (sic) been there or stayed there.

Having been to India and also dined in a few hundred Curry Houses across the planet, the Hector is mystified as to how this venue could achieve such positive ratings.

My Curry was rank.

Arriving just after 14.00 I was greeted and sent to a small table between two larger ones. My then vantage was in full view of an elaborate bar. The menu confirmed my original impression, Samrat is as much about selling booze as food. I had to wade past the cocktails to reach the Curry.

To my left was the inner room with some stunning wall decoration. A large group of Asian diners had this, the rest of us were sat in the entrance room. With Indian staff and Indian customers, all was set up to be … well, we’ll see.

Drinks were sorted first, a 0.75l bottle of Aqua Morelli Frizzante (€6.50).

If Samrat operates as a bar-restaurant, then I could envisage customers having drinks with Starters as nibbles and spend a while here. However, I have read of a chap finishing his food and being asked to give up his table. Being early afternoon, everyone around me was here primarily for food. I was about to witness some very strange creations.

The given descriptions for Lamm Vindaloo (€17.90) and Lamm Bhuna (€17.90) listed standard ingredients, no creamy nonsense. Whether or not – Bhuna – was taken seriously is always a good meter for a first visit to any Curry House. All main courses are served with Salad and Rice.  All Bread to be paid for.

The young chap who appeared to be the head waiter brought his pad and took the Order. I enquired as to Spice Level:

Normal – was the somewhat abrupt reply.

So, no alternatives then?

Having taken my photo of the pretty blue bottle, I settled down for the wait. Wait? There was none. My Curry felt as if it had arrived in a puff of smoke. Another young chap had brought the food, oh, that’s how we’re serving it then?

The Salad, more German in style, was deceptive. Beneath the adornments lay a mass of Lettuce, hardly inspiring. With the Rice to one side of the plate, it felt logical to rearrange it. As ever in Europe, there was more Rice than a Hector would manage.

Lamm Bhuna

A Creamy Masala, why? At least it had a decent level of viscosity, but this was hardly – Bhuna Dry. Ginger Strips and Coriander formed part of the elaborate Toppings, these would be mixed through on decanting. The Meat count reached double figures, there was certainly enough.

The Seasoning registered first then immediately dissipated. In its place was an alien Flavour, not from any Spice listed on the menu, nothing known to the Hector. There was a slight Tang, but no sign of Pickle. The Taste was somewhere between Sour and Bitter, potentially horrible. What on Earth had Chef added to this creation? Vinegar seemed to be a possibility. Allowing myself the benefit of moving forward an hour, the – afterglow – suggested Cabbage. Vinegar and Cabbage, who would ever combine these?

I tried some of the remaining Masala on its own, the unpleasantness was less apparent, but eating this Curry was certainly going to be a chore.

As unfortunately has to be accepted in the world of Mainstream Curry, the Tender Meat gave back no Spice. Today this might have been a blessing. The – normal – Spice Level was maybe below – medium. The challenge in this Curry was not the heat but overcoming the fear of up-chuck.

The Seasoning returned, other Flavours did not emerge. Garlic, Coriander and Cumin were listed in the given description, plus Garam Masala which of course could be Chef’s creation. What Indian Chef passed this Curry for muster? I was determined to make enquiries.

Meanwhile, on my right, a young lady had ordered Lamm Seekh Kebab (€17.90). The solitary Seekh Kebab was large,  served in pieces and sat beside the most complex array of Ballast ever seen. How else could they justify this price? To my left, another customer had a plate with flat patties and again Ballast, hideous.

I stuck my head into the large room to see the décor, impressive, but taking a photo would have been intrusive. The waiter who had taken my Order presented the Bill at the bar.

The Bill

€24.40 (£21.37)

The Aftermath

I handed over the Calling Card and introduced Curry-Heute.

Your Curry was totally different from anything I’ve ever eaten.

This was the lead line to the hoped for discussion.

Sorry, no English.

Abruptness understood. 

2023 Menu extracts

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Bamberg – Himalayan Indian Food – The Other Side of The Tracks

Bamberg is for Bier yet the number of Bamberg Curry Houses continues to rise. Bamberg may not match the plethora of Curry Houses found in nearby Erlangen  but is catching up.

Once upon a time there was only Swarg, in the heart of the city, the newcomers tend to have spread themselves out across various neighbourhoods. Himalayan Indian Food (Pödeldorfer Str. 39, 96052 Bamberg Deutschland) is one of three across the railway where tourists tend not to cluster.

Having enjoyed an outrageously wonderful Lamm Desi Korma in Berlin earlier in the week, it was time for Hector to put on his other Curry reviewer hat. Himalayan Indian Food is back in the land of Euro-Curry, the phenomenon of serving Curry the Chef thinks the locals can manage, no Desi/Apna here.

Arriving at 13.45 around ten people were making their way out. Presumably they had enjoyed the Mittags Buffet (€10.90) which is great value. Alas, the Curry here was Chicken/Vegetable, not what the Hector sought. The Pakora did look impressive, not the flat stuff which prevails in these Lands.

The charming Hostess directed me to a table in a recess sitting opposite another solo diner who was nearly finished. Having established I was not having Buffet, the extensive menu was provided. A half litre glass of Sprudel (€2.70) was ordered. Sparkling Water is cheaper than Bier, not something to assume in this part of the World.

Duck is often a feature of German Curry Houses, almost tempting. Had I spotted that Fish Vindaloo (€14.90) was served in a South Indian Masala I would have gone for this, too late. The usual Hector Mainstream fallback – Mutton Vindaloo (€14.50) would be a reality test, served with Basmati-Reis oder Naan/Roti. For Hector, it had to be Rice.

Shall I translate something for you? – asked the Hostess.

I assured her there was no need, the language of Curry is universal.

With the Order placed I took in my surroundings. A few other diners remained in the main seating area. With the 14.30 end of shift looming, I was the last a la carte customer. The Buffet accommodated the rest.

Inclusive Rice, in a Euro-Curry House, the karahi was brimming with Basmati. I took a plateful, the rest was discarded, wasted.

Mutton Vindaloo

Behold the Soupy Curry. Strips of Onion and Syboes floated on top of the thin, yellow Masala. One piece of Lamb broke through the surface. The absurdity of the moment was duly noted, this was the style of Curry which the Hector avoids at all costs. Add to this the prior acceptance that this interpretation of – Vindaloo – would feature Coconut. No Potato in a Vindaloo?

The Meat count reached double figures as I decanted, two tiddlers. Now for the Sauce. Having smothered the Mutton I was still left with a bowl of – Soup. The leftover Rice would not be touched, if I didn’t have more Sauce then it would look as if I had hardly touched my meal.

Creamy with a kick – was the first tasting note. The Coconut had not overwhelmed. Thankfully, this Curry was not sweet. The lack of complexity was apparent, not the usual array of Spices. However, as I ate on so a level of respect would develop.

The Mutton was soft but still required a degree of chewing. As anticipated, the Meat was not giving back Spice, how long had it and the Masala been in each other’s company?

Peppery, a wee kick, far from being – Vindaloo – strength if one accepts this as a level of measure. The Hector was missing his Aloo. Biting into a Green Cardamom, there was a micro explosion on the palate. A new Flavour therefore, a more complex Curry than first thought. A piece of Root Ginger was encountered, another sensation, the Hector was becoming impressed. Then there was the Seasoning, this was pronounced, the big box ticked.

I was offered more Rice!

As the Masala separated slightly on the plate, so there was a watery residue. I was missing my Oil slick. I spooned more Masala on to the plate, must use it up.  I was actually enjoying this, a significant change from my preferred style.  This was a well Seasoned Curry, and with the Flavours duly released, crucial to enjoyment.

Creamy, not too Spicy, Marg would have loved this Curry. How she would have managed the Masala with her customary Chapatti is another issue. This Curry required Rice, mountains of Rice.

Was that OK? – I was asked at the conclusion.

Removing the Euro-Curry filter, then, yes, it was – OK.

The Bill

€18.00 (£15.77)

The Aftermath

Being a few minutes after 14.30, the Hostess was free to chat. I mentioned my perception that Seasoning is as important as Spice. She totally agreed, and why not. Her husband is from India and that is his current locus. I mentioned the increasing number of Curry Houses in Bamberg, and the catching up with Erlangen. In acknowledging this she said that some are serving Indian and Italian cuisine. Bella Tandoori has been previously reviewed. Her husband visits Curry House in Erlangen, which has been reviewed oft. There is served Desi Curry which often is the Saltiest Curry served anywhere.

Back to Curry at Himalayan, it was pointed out to me that the locals like to dip their Bread in the Soupy Sauce. This is something I had never considered. I have been given many a shake of the head at home when considering Rice with a Dry Curry. Dry, north Indian/Punjabi Curry requires Bread, Soupy demands Rice.

Curry for the locals, if this is what they want, then so be it.

2023 Menu

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Berlin – Punjabi Zaiqa – Blutige Hölle – Achtung, Scharf!

As satisfaction was not being achieved on Saturday at Rickshaw & Co (Glasgow), there was comfort in the knowledge that today the Hector would be back in a happy hunting ground. Punjabi Zaiqa (Tromsöer Strasse 6, 13359 Berlin Deutschland) was first visited 51 weeks ago, today was Visit #6! Here they serve the real deal – Originale Pakistanische Küche – is their tagline. This is not Curry for the masses, but then is Curry-Heute not about encouraging people to try different places and authentic Curry?

Those who keep up with these pages, and I thank all who do, even Dr. Stan who sneaks a look especially when he knows he gets a mention, will know that Curry in Berlin has been a somewhat frustrating experience over the years. All change. Transformation, and better awareness on my part, means that as the Bier scene has significantly improved, so has the Curry. Is there more to life? Ah yes, the travel too. Today, Moiz who is currently turning Karahi Palace into Handi By Darbar (Glasgow) admired my Curry and reckons that he too should start a Curry Blog and replicate Hector’s hobby.

13.00 was the originally declared time for anyone who wanted to join the Hector, Steve considered this to be too early. When he suggested 15.00, Dr. Stan reckoned his vast Frühstuck would be digested by then. We would be three, Steve’s first visit. After last night’s excesses at Bräugier, I doubt if I would have done a Curry justice at 13.00.

My fellow diners arrived at 14.50 and placed their Orders. Knowing the system, Dr. Stan ordered what he knew the Hector would be having: Lamm (Desi) Korma (€12.90), with included Rice. Steve played it safe: Lamm Karahi – Ohne Knochen (€16.90). An honourable sum, but no Bones? At Punjabi Zaiqa, on-the-bone is €2.00 less. To this, he added a Garlic Naan (€3.00).

Again leading the way, Dr. Stan had helped himself to a bottle of Mango Lassi, Steve, a can of Fanta. They were sitting at the far end of the spacious room when the Hector arrived at 15.01. Adnan greeted, on Visit #1, the Hector made sure that Curry-Heute would be recognised. Spicy – was agreed, Dr. Stan reportedly had asked for – Medium.

A modestly priced litre bottle of Fanta was too good an opperchancity to turn down. Dehydration needed addressing. Taking my seat at the far wall, the table felt a bit distant. The tables could be moved, we didn’t try, a recipe for stained trousers.

When he brought the necessaries, the young waiter brought a Salad. Topped with Rocket, not for Hector. My fellow diners nibbled the minutes away.

As expected, my Curry arrived moments after the others’. The Naan was a realistic size, risen, puffy, Poppy Seeds featured to one side. With Karahi it has to be Bread, Rice remains the preference for Desi Korma. As is the European way, a mountain of Rice was presented. It’s amazing how they can serve so much when it’s inclusive, yet at home we pay over the odds, for what? The Hector took a good portion, Dr. Stan proved he could eat even more, Steve didn’t touch his allocation.

By the end we had made a good hole in the pile.

Scharf – said the young waiter as he placed the karahi on the table before me.

Maybe that should have been – Achtung, Scharf!

Lamm (Desi) Korma

Strips of a notional green something or other sat atop the Curry, the karahi was filled to the brim. I stopped counting the Meat at double figures, no frustrating – Tapas – here. At Punjabi Zaiqa, the portions are huge! So were the lumps of Meat, many on-the-bone, some without. The Desi Korma does come with the – Ohne Knochen – option. Dr. Stan said he was offered – Boneless with Cheese. He knew better.

The Masala was sufficient for the quantity of Meat, and maybe Rice. It’s all about ratios. As ever, I retained some Masala for the end to ensure all had not been absorbed by the Rice. I could not tell if this Masala had been blended, it looked wonderful.

Bloody Hell! – entschuldigung.

My pleasure had to be announced, instantly. Wow? – this was – Wow-plus! I refuse to give number ratings to Curry, it’s all comparative. Black and white maybe, a Curry either has it, or it doesn’t.

The Flavour in the Masala quite simply astonished. The richness, the intensity, the Seasoning. QED. Only after the palate was flooded with the complex array of Spices did the heat hit, and it hit hard. Achtung! Many could not have handled this. Then there’s the recognition that venues which do serve a Curry with this level of Spice-heat, tend to lose the Flavour. As any idiot can throw Meat on a grill, any Curry Chef can chuck in Chilli Powder. Today at Punjabi Zaiqa, this was not the case, perfection.

I studied the Masala some more. Flecks of something white, Garlic presumably, were complemented by fresh Curry Leaves and and more flecks of green, an unknown Herb. The distinctive – Desi Korma – Flavour was here, I always get a hint of Citrus. Having experimented with replicating this – King of Curryat home, I still know not from where this comes. The secret of Mace/Nutmeg?

I hadn’t even started on the Meat.

These were cuts I couldn’t recognise, no Sucky Bones, no Ribs. One bone stood out, Chapatti John may know. Soft, Tender Lamb, full of – Lamby – Flavour, some bits giving more, a couple surprisingly – Dry. Most pieces could be tackled with a fork, I had to resort to using a knife for the final three, then fingers. There’s nothing to beat getting tore in. The Spiciest Korma ever encountered, the Hector was truly stuffed at the end. Bloody Hell – yes I had to say it aloud once more. There were two runny noses, yet there was no duress. This was how to both Spice and Season a Curry.

From across the table was heard a series of – mmmmmsThe Good Doctor was sharing the experience. This was only his second visit to Punjabi Zaiqa, he knew what to order. Stan was finding his – Medium – to be Spicy also. No prisoners.

Very rich and spicy – began Dr. Stan – full of different spices, tender meat.

Well that says it all.

Lamm Karahi (Ohne Knocken)

Having seen his fair share of – kilos – I think Steve was taken aback by the sheer quantity of Meat on the flat karahi. The same green Herb was accompanied by Coriander and a swirl of – Yoghurt? The Dry, Thick and absolutely Minimal Masala shrouded the Lamb. One would need a microscope to find the Oily residue. Despite the lack of bones, this looked magnificent. I shall have to keep this photo to hand and wave it in front of waiters and ask it their Karahi Gosht looks like this, or the plate of Capsicum and Soup, or worse, Stir-Fry, that the Mainstream dish out. This was authentic Lahori/Punjabi Karahi Gosht.

Steve certainly enjoyed the finest Curry he has ever had in Berlin:

It was a beautifully spiced Curry. Hot, lots of different spice experiences all over the plate. The meat was slightly dry. Very good, I would come back.

Well most certainly, now that he knows where Punjabi Zaiqa is.

Three views on Punjabi Zaiqa. I still have not managed to get my Berlin friends to come here.

The Bill

€16.40 (£14.31) For mine, we paid separately.

The Aftermath

As I was paying, I spotted the expired Lunchtime Menu. Maybe sharing a Karahi and an Aloo Gobi (€8.90) could be one for the future. That means a 13.00 start.

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Glasgow – Rickshaw & Co – Euro-Curry, served in Partick

A Tapas venue in the West End, here we go again. After the visit to The Lansdowne last week, Dr. Stan reminded me that I had yet to review Rickshaw & Co (9 Partick Bridge St, Partick, Glasgow G11 6PN) which has been open about a year. A Curry-Tapas venue on consecutive Saturdays, not exactly what the Hector seeks, but as has been written – for the sake of completeness. At the start of this week, Marg and Hector were indulged at the wonderful DumPukht Lahori, the Southside, where authentic – Desi Curry – is served.

Located behind the Three Judges, which itself was formerly The Tower Bar / Bennett’s, the Rickshaw premises appear to be a new build. The Springwell Tavern may well have occupied this site back in the day, others can fill in the last fifty years.

With the tiny Curry Pot around the corner, and – the must get back to Little Curry House at the bottom of Byres Rd., Partick does not do too badly for Curry. Usha’s Indian Vegetarian on Partick X has, not unsurprisingly, gone.

Arriving at 13.15, the Hector was the first customer of the day, by 14.00 we were nine. The staff outlined the Vegetarian Tiffin (£11.50) and Non-Vegetarian Tiffin (£13.50) to these customers. With – Chicken – as the Meat, Hector had no interest there.

The charming waitress offered – water for the table. Instead, the order for 330ml of Sparkling Water (£1,95) was placed. A pukka glass, we are in the West End.

Finger food – was mentioned on the menu, Hector prefers to have his dinner.

Listed under – Chef’s choice – was Lamb Lahawab (£8.50), a Curry yet to feature in these pages, maybe one day.

Lamb Handi (£6.95) could be more representative of the Masala served at Rickshaw, a free rein for Chef. To accompany there had to be an Interesting Vegetable.

Desi Bombay Aloo (£5.95) ticked the box, the humble Potato is often an excellent inclusion in any Curry.

Classic Naan (£2.50) was nearly the choice of Bread. On spotting Methi Paratha (£2.95), it had to be.

Dismissed was Aachari Lamb Chops, possibly the most expensive Lamb Chops in Glasgow? Hopefully, affordable and abundant Lamb Chops Achari will feature in these pages at the end of this month, unless Dr. Bernard vetoes.

I take it I won’t see masses of Capsicum in the Handi? – I asked the waitress.

She confirmed no Ballast, then asked:

Do you have an allergy?

No, I just cannot stand Capsicum in Curry!

Nobody ever asks me why, regular readers know.

The food arrived after an appropriate wait. As with last week, a small dinner plate.

The Methi Paratha was served in a Tiffin tray, in five pieces. Wholemeal, slightly toasted, there were but flecks of the glorious Herb mixed into the dough.

The parameters which define a quality Paratha have been written oft: thickness, layering, flakiness, the spiral, buttery, none of these were present. This was not a Paratha as is recognised in Curry-Heute.

Desi Bombay Aloo

Potato wedges, this was different, sat in the seemingly not Soupy Masala. Finely chopped Onions had been added to the presumably blended Masala. Flecks of Coriander had been stirred in. On transferring to the dinner plate, the Masala did run, so Soupy then. The quantity of Potato justified the price, a decent portion for – Tapas. Finger food, not.

Lamb Handi

The Masala appeared to have a better consistency, again finely chopped onions were mixed in. I counted seven, respectably sized, pieces of Meat as I squeezed this Curry on to the empty part of the plate. Avoiding cross contamination was the name of the game. The Handi Masala initially appeared to be darker, on the plate, hard to spot any difference.

The all important first dip of Paratha into the Bombay Masala revealed no blast of Flavour. Mildly Spiced, was sensed. The receptors awaited, something, anything. The level of Seasoning was approaching the non-existent, ergo what chance the Curry? The Potato had not absorbed Flavour, well what was there to absorb? How long had they been in each others company? The whole point of Potato in Curry appears to have been missed.

The Handi Masala fared no better. Again, the lack of Seasoning was the culprit.

The waitress came over to ask the customary question.

The lack of Seasoning was duly reported.

I’ll let the Chef know – was the response.

A Black Cardamom was unearthed in the Handi Masala, a whole Spice, there had to be something happening here. I started to question if the taste-buds were actually working. The Lamb itself I could taste, one hopes for more, but had the Masala permeated, it had so little to offer.

There was something upsetting, whatever was registering on the palate was not what the Hector seeks, yet was becoming familiar. Deutschland, came to mind, Euro-Curry, I have had this too often, Curry as in what Chefs think people like.

The mass of food on the plate remained considerable. Time to abandon the Bread. Then the penny dropped.

The Wholemeal flour in the Paratha was overwhelming everything else. By abandoning this shockingly poor Paratha, which was already turning crispy, the taste-buds were invigorated. I could taste Lamb Curry! An improvement, but the lack of Seasoning meant there was no way back.

Having called it a day, I returned to the Sparkling Water. The palate rinsed, so an array of Spices emerged. The Paratha had masked these, still no Methi blast. The experience was nothing like as intense as last week’s – Afterglow – at The Lansdowne.

I have to accept that the Mainstream Curry Houses serve food pitched for the masses, thankfully not everyone knows of Glasgow’s Southside Curry Cafes, oops. I found it hard to believe that what was served today was from a Glasgow Curry House. In Europe, one tends to review from the perspective of the Curry being second division. I do not expect to make this adjustment in my home city.

The Bill

£17.80

The Aftermath

It was the same waitress who had dealt with me throughout the visit. She once again apologised for the lack of Seasoning. Having introduced myself and Curry-Heute, I then went on to define what makes a Paratha.  Sorry.

Not a good day for the Hector. I feel a Desi Korma calling, where can I source one?

2023 Menu

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Glasgow – DumPukht Lahori – A Bright Light on Paisley Road West

A timeous return to a favourite Curry Cafe was required. Marg and Hector arrived at DumPukht Lahori (39-41 Paisley Rd. West, Glasgow G51 1LG) at 17.25, Aqeel, Mein Host greeted with:

Hi, Hector!

Six chaps were feasting at our usual spot, the far corner became ours. Aqeel started to recite our Order as he approached the table, however, I was keen to confirm the menu had not changed in the last six months. It hadn’t.

A kilo of Lamb Lahori Karahi (£34.99) it would be. A Roti (£1.50) for Marg, a Till Nan (£2.99) for Hector. For reasons not fully explained, Til Naan was not available, Aqueel promised – something.

Salad was mentioned and declined before Marg had her say. Aqeel was on his own, why waste his time with the frivolous? The six chaps were still receiving top-ups, I can state with confidence that they had not shared three kilos.

Hot plates were provided, just as well there was no Salad. It took Aqeel thirty minutes to work his magic.

The Roti was pale, standard for Glasgow’s Southside. Hector’s Bread was half Naan half Roti. Hot and glistening, this proved to be a soft, worthy Bread. More than the norm would be consumed.

Lamb Lahori Karahi

Glorious! The mass of Lamb on-the-bone was shrouded in a pulp-like pale Masala, no – Red – here. Coriander Leaves, Green Chillies cut lengthwise, and Ginger Strips were abundant on top. Actual liquid was at an absolute minimum, once settled there proved to be no Oil slick.

Let’s get tore in!

Peppery! This was as close to Namkeen Karahi as one could find without ordering it as such. The Seasoning was astonishing, right up there – brave. Salt and Pepper the fundamental ingredients of this simple Karahi. Simple? I’ve tried, this takes a special skill.  Some Green Chillies were consumed, many were abandoned, there was no need to change the nature of what lay before us.

No Sucky Bones, no ribs, from where this Meat came I know not. There was something with the appearance of a Lamb Chop in there.  It was evident earlier this year that the actual quality of the cuts has improved since the early days of DumPukht. Nothing – offal – here. Beautiful Lamb, giving back so much, the antithesis of Mainstream Curry.  

The Masala was so pale a brown it was grey, pulped Tomato, I assume.  The ratio of Masala to Meat was spot on. This Karahi was giving as much pleasure as could be hoped for, yet there was still no – wow – moment. Maybe this Karahi was very much as expected. Aqeel can cook.

When Marg’s Roti was finished, she stopped eating Curry. Whereas, Hector stopped eating Bread to ensure the completion of the Curry.

It became apparent that we would manage the kilo without Takeaway. As I savoured the final mouthfuls, so Marg was considering Dessert, no ice-cream on the menu.

Marg declared that after Keema, this style of Curry is her favourite. So much for my varied – Home-cooked – efforts. Looks like I’ll have to have another go.

Having gone up to enquire about Dessert, Marg returned to the table with the promise of Chai which Aqeel was preparing for – the six.

Milk with Tea and Sugar (sic), not for Hector.

Aqeel’s lady helper arrived around 18.00. On seeing Marg’s empty plate and Bread basket she was keen to clear up. Hector had to stop her in her tracks, ritual photos required.

I could make out enough of her subsequent Farsi(?) conversation with Aqeel to confirm that she was reporting back.

You like your food – was her observation when the table was finally cleared.

The Bill

£38.50   Complimentary Chai.

The Aftermath

Hector is famous – Aqeel informed his assistant – not a new customer.

Well, maybe here. Hector was here in March 2020 a few weeks after DumPukht opened. We all know what happened thereafter.

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Glasgow – The Lansdowne – Deep in The Afterglow

Amit Sharma @ The Lansdowne (7A Lansdowne Crescent, Glasgow G20 6NQ), is one of three Curry Houses north of the river which Hector has yet to visit/review. Tapas appears to be the major theme, not how the Hector prefers to dine. The Lansdowne is another outlet in the Mother India chain. Chains, to what extent do individual shops differ? In terms of Mother India, there is only one venue which features in Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses.

As one who unashamedly favours Glasgow’s Southside Curry Cafes, this was a case of having to visit, for the sake of completeness. OK, go on, impress me.

With irregular opening times, today’s 13.00 did suit Hector’s Saturday schedule. Arriving at 13.35, I thought I was the first customer of the day, but no, The Glassroom, a conservatory at the rear, was slowly filling. A party for weans, just what the Hector did not order. As it happens, this was the best managed babies/toddlers event ever experienced in a Curry House. Sucking on Poppadoms may be the secret. The Hector has suffered through the years, the parents usually to blame.

As I was led to the rear of the premises adjacent to the kitchen, I was surprised to see every table set up for dining. I had assumed that this was a reimagining of The Lansdowne Bar which I visited in the 1980s, but maybe that was on the west side of the crescent?

Various menus were provided, wine dismissed, as was the Saturday & Sunday lunch (£16.00) offer. Street Food / Tapas – featured prominently in the main menu, not why I was here. Two sections featured Curry of interest: Fish & Seafood, Some Old Glasgow Favourites. Boatman Fish Curry (£16.00) is one for another day. South Indian Ginger Lamb (£14.00) should guarantee the avoidance of both Chicken and Capsicum. Old Glasgow Favourites? Some of us are – old, Chicken aside, how many of these featured on any Curry menu back in the 1970s?

To accompany, Rice, to be discussed. Wonderful as they might be, the Hector was not paying £4.25 for a Malabar Parantha. Such is the price of Bier, I wonder how many people come here for nibbles and stay on for the evening? Maybe I just don’t understand the setup.

For Hector, a large bottle of Sparkling Water (£4.25).  The Order was relayed, I enquired about the Rice. Basmati, Fried and Lemon & Cashew a la Mother India’s Cafe were the options. Had Marg been here, it would have been the latter, I stuck with Plain Rice.

How to get some photos? The chap behind the bar acknowledged as I took the broad shot. The Rogues’ Gallery did not feature any recognisable faces. Hector knows no rogues?

Just how many does The Lansdowne seat? This place is spacious, enormous.

A hot plate, the size more suited to Tapas, was brought by another of the many staff on duty. Pile it on then.

The sensibly sized portion of Basmati was served in a tiffin tray. Every grain was decanted to the hot plate. The plate may have been small, however, given what followed it was much appreciated.

South Indian Ginger Lamb

The sliced Red Chillies were different, the distinctive aroma of South Indian Curry was already wafting towards the Hector receptors.   It all looks a bit – lonely. The plate resembled a flat karahi. The area was such that the Masala spread thinly across the base. Had this Curry been served in a more standard karahi/handi then it most certainly would have appeared to be – Soupy. Without the dinner plate, adding the Rice here would have been a major negative. Adding Rice to Curry is a – no-no.

I counted to nine as I arranged the decent sized pieces of Lamb on the Rice. As is the custom, some of the Masala was retained for the end game. Before me sat a potentially worthy meal. Meat and Masala, maybe I was already wishing there was an Interesting Vegetable in there.

The South Indian smokiness was present, but subtly so. A slight tanginess made me think – pickle – momentarily, no, Tamarind/Mustard perhaps. The Seasoning was particularly – low – and unlike recent reports, the lips did not register more as I ate. The Spice Level from the Masala was not challenging, when the Chillies were taken, this certainly altered the perspective.

The Tender Lamb was quality Meat. As is typical of the majority of Mainstream Restaurants, the Meat and Masala may not have been in each other’s company for long.

Mein Host, the manager I established later, came over to ask the customary question.

I described my appreciation of South Indian Curry and its distinctive Flavour.  For once, Chettinad was not quoted.

He reaffirmed my choice of Plain Rice, the added Flavours in the alternatives would have contradicted the Flavours in my Curry.

I ate on, the spare Masala being used to revitalise the remaining Rice. More Masala, the irony of the Hector posting this, would have been appreciated at this point.

The plate was cleared, every grain of Rice managed, a Curry to be enjoyed, however, it would be remiss not to state that the Flavours here were not as intense as those found in other venues serving South Indian Curry, north of the River Clyde e.g. Bombaywalla’s Sukka/Chukka – this was not.

The Bill

£20.75  West End prices.

The Aftermath

It was yet another staff member who dealt with the payment and who therefore received the Calling Card and thus heard the introductory spiel. The burning question had to be asked: is all the food cooked on the premises? A valid question when dealing with a Mother India variant. I was assured it is, and as he spoke so Chef momentarily appeared from the kitchen. Chef, but not Amit Sharma.

The Manager was identified as he headed back to The Glassroom where the many were being ably catered for. A pity, so many more questions. One day, perhaps.

Waiting for the #6 Bus on Great Western Rd. into the city centre, I could not believe there is presently only one bus route between Anniesland and Cowcaddens. There is the Subway and the train I suppose. Anyway, there was the realisation that I was still enjoying my Curry. When South Indian Curry repeats, it confirms why this style is a winner. The afterglow, indeed.

2023 Menu

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