Tooting – Lahore Spices – Your Darn Tooting

Day two of – The  London Trip – and once again Lord Clive was happy to accompany Hector on the quest for quality Curry in SW17. A busy Lahore Spices (111-113 Upper Tooting Rd., Wandsworth, London S17 7TJ England), was passed yesterday on the trek between Tooting Broadway and Tooting Bec. Today, we alighted at Tooting Bec in the knowledge that Lahore Spices was nearer – the top end.

We entered at 12.35, the first customers of the day, so a different experience compared to Sunday lunch down the road at Lahore Karahi. The waiter led us towards a window table, I stopped short and chose one mid room.

We remained the only diners until around 13.00 when two chaps came in armed with bottles of wine. Wine with Curry, what a waste. Tap water for us.

Lahore Spices serves traditional Punjabi/Lahori Fayre, not that Hector is likely to ever order Paya (£8.95) or Haleem (£8.95). No Burgers or Pizza are served here, serious food only, well apart from that for – Young Guests.

Karahi Lamb Special ½kg (£17.95) almost tempted. That the standard Karahi Lamb was only £8.95 was also considered, cheap for London. I ran through the menu for Clive, he settled for Keema Mutter (£8.95) plus his usual Keema Naan (£4.25). Lamb Korma (Pakistani Style) (£9.25) caught Hector’s attention. A Desi Korma? I have only ever encountered this in Glasgow at The Village and Karahi Palace. This has long been Hector’s favourite Curry, i.e. when not having Karahi Gosht. A Chilli Naan (£2.25) would accompany.

On relaying the Order to the waiter, I firstly had to establish that the Lamb Korma was not of the the common – Coconut laden – variety. I then asked for Desi, Apna, the lot. Spicy was certainly noted.

A Modest Salad was brought to the table. This featured three slices of Tomato, Clive was not missing out. I found the Onions to be potent.

Lahore Spices is a good sized premises, spacious, well lit with contemporary décor. A display counter runs down one side of the room, the kitchen lies to the rear.

*

During the wait I went up to the counter to photograph the prepared Dishes. Hector was in his element, a worthy Curry Cafe and the prices amazed. If Lahore Spices can sell Chapatti and Naan at £1.00, why can’t everyone?

Both Breads were well fired and in time, would turn crispy. The Chilli Naan, served in two pieces, also featured Coriander, a bonus for Hector. There were sufficient burnt blisters and the puffiness ticked another box. I would eat all but a scrap.

The Keema Naan was quartered. There was no sign of – pink – Mince inside. A meal in itself, Clive would only manage three quarters.

Lamb Korma (Pakistani Style)

Large pieces of Meat protruded from the rich Masala. The Oil was already collecting on the surface of the Masala, a residue would maintain. Green Chillies, which had been no more than halved, were a feature, – Spicy – had been taken seriously. By eating directly from the karahi, there would be no Meat count, yet this was clearly a decent portion. Indistinguishable from my usual Karahi, this looked worthy of a Hector.

There was big Peppery blast which surprised given the redness of the Masala. The Seasoning was spot on, the crucial element which defines a Curry.

Most of the Meat was wonderfully Tender, more chewing was required for a couple of the larger pieces. The Meat was giving off so much Flavour, and with each mouthful, a Spicy blast. With Chillies in the karahi and in the Naan, this was not for the faint of heart. Tears, a runny nose and a sweaty scalp confirmed that if one accepts the – Vindaloo – scale of Spice, this was beyond that.

Importantly, there was Flavour, maybe not as intense as I have been enjoying at Karahi Palace (Glasgow) in recent months, but this was truly – in the style – a Curry to savour, a Curry to remember. I congratulate Chef.

Keema Mutter

One could not but help notice the abundant Peas. This was an authentic Dry Keema, there was no trace of Oil visible. The quantity impressed, around the halfway stage, it became even more apparent that this was a large portion.

In the last couple of years, Clive has been boasting about his home-cooked Keema Mutter. Then he tried the recipe posted in Curry-Heute and upped his further. His first statement today:

I wish I could make it like this.

Clive would repeat this at the end of his meal, then added:

Very good, very spicy, temperature very hot, I had to wait for it to cool down.

We were two satisfied customers in Tooting this Monday lunchtime.

The Bill

£24.70    I asked the waiter to split the Bill, he charged us half each – doh!

The Aftermath

I had spotted a chap who could have been Mein Host, alas he was not in sight as we departed. I gave the Calling Card to one of the waiters. Apart from acknowledging this, there was no further discourse.

Hours later the Citrus was breaking through. With fewer Chillies, this may have been manifested sooner.

2023 Menu

 

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Tooting – Lahore Karahi – A Warm Welcome in Wandsworth

Dr. Bernard stated on December 31st last year – Your blog is not complete without reference to SW17. Today, Lord Clive of Crawley accompanied Hector on a first ever visit to Tooting, a popular front for Curry in the Borough of Wandsworth. South of Tooting Broadway tube station lie five Curry outlets; heading northwards towards Tooting Bec, a mere twelve more. (see the foot of this post) Where to start?

The very beginning – allegedly, is – a very good place to start. Lahore Karahi (1Tooting High Street, Wandsworth, London SW17 0SN England) appeared to fit the bill. Actually having studied the online menus for quite a few venues, this would have been my first choice, regardless of Lahore Karahi being the first venue encountered.

Note, all venues appear to open at noon, daily, making Tooting a candidate for Curry Heaven. We could smell the wonderful aroma of – Spice – as soon as we exited Tooting Broadway. 12.30 may be early for Hector to be out for Curry, especially on a Sunday, however, having taken an early flight to Gatwick this morning, there was certainly an appetite.

Lahore Karahi, established 1995, was stowed. A cross section of society was represented here, perhaps with an Asian bias. Approaching the counter, where many Dishes were on display, the chap who greeted passed us on to another for seating. An empty table for six was adjusted creating a table for two. Strangely, a sole diner who followed had the table for four. We had limited space. This was the classic Curry Cafe which the Hector seeks, people here for the food, not elaborate décor.

The Menu was provided, I quickly read it through to Clive, his customary Mutton Dhansak (£11.95) would be passed up, he would follow my lead. Meat Karahi (£11.95) it had to be. There was no mention of – on-the-bone – that I could see on the menu. Perhaps the Lamb Charsi Karahi (£14.95/£21.95) would be served – authentically. Note, Hector was also eschewing Fish Masala Karahi (£11.95) in favour of – Lamb.

A return visit was already being formulated, and this was just Tooting Curry #1.

A Butter Naan (£1.50) and a Keema Naan (£4.95) completed the Order. No way was Clive not having his Keema Naan.

A jug of Tap Water was eventually secured, despite the local geology, no nasty tastes here.

I had to bide my time to get any photos of the room. Observing the Fayre being presented, all were having the food of the Indian Subcontinent. Unlike comparable establishments in Glasgow, Burgers and Pizza are not on the menu. How would my Glasgow Brothers cope?

I watched people eat methodically with their –  right hand. Hector is ambidextrous, forked food with the right, Bread etc. conveyed with the left. No formalities here, hopefully.

There’s a BYOB policy in operation, £2.00 per person, which certainly favours Bier, unlike their namesake in Aberdoom where there is a comparable charge per bottle. The seemingly large number of staff, on both sides of the counter, were kept busy. The wait was commensurate with the food being properly prepared, and the number of people dining.

The Butter Naan proved to be the perfect Naan. Risen, puffy, burnt blisters and served whole, I would eat the lot, just. The Keema Naan was an eye opener, were these – spirals – a la Paratha? Again served whole, this well-fired Bread was seemingly packed with Mince. I wasn’t for ripping Clive’s Bread apart to fully inspect the Keema, however, it did appear to be properly cooked, no sign of the pink – Donner-like – stuff here. Good Bread.

Meat Karahi

Ginger Strips, and sliced Bullet Chillies had been stirred in at the point of serving. A threat of Coriander topped the mass of Meat and Masala, no microscopic London portions here. Initially I noted the Meat as cut – small – but reviewed this as I made progress. The Texture would vary accordingly, the smallest pieces being super-Tender, the larger requiring more chewing. Well, one would hope so.

The Seasoning was noted as – low – at the outset, the Spice as – OK. As further sliced Chillies were encountered so – OK – was revised upwards, and some. Importantly, the meat was giving a big blast of Spice on every bite. So few venues achieve this. Slivers of Tomato were visible in so authentic Masala. I couldn’t tell if this was Tomato/Onion based, or both.

With no Clove or Cinnamon to the fore, the Hector was trying to pinpoint what made this Masala so recognisable, Cumin, perhaps. Umami! – had to be declared, there was a definite sense of – Savoury Meatiness – and more, from the Meat.

One always hopes for something – magnificent – something that really grabs the palate, this was not to be, no – Wow! – today. I have to make clear: this Karahi bore no resemblance to the continually disappointing nonsense served up in Mainstream Curry Houses across this land, and many more. Authentic Lahori/Punjabi Fayre is what the Hector craves, and here it was.

This Meat Karahi was enjoyable, lacking the full depth of Flavour I seek, perhaps down to the Seasoning, or lack thereof. Other mortals would have added – Salt – the Hector must not. Also, no bones, their presence makes a significant difference. Clive could hardly contain himself:

Absolutely smack full of flavour, not sure at the start, then ten seconds later, it hit you. Not the tenderest meat I’ve eve had, but still OK.

Is it possible that the Keema Naan had enhanced the overall Seasoning and correspondingly, Clive’s experience?

The Calling Card had to be presented, the waiters were too busy to engage. In the meantime, I had spotted the chap who had to be – Mein Host, I would approach him later.

On asking for – The Bill – it was Rizwan, Mein Host, who came over with the card machine.

I see you didn’t like the food – he remarked.

That’s my line when the plates are wiped clean.

Introductions were made and the Calling Card presented, yes, I had just flown down from Glasgow this morning to have Curry in Tooting.

A Curry Blog! – Good to have you.

The Bill

£30.25 – spontaneously reduced to £20.35.

Such gestures are always appreciated but not always accepted. Given the number of diners, I doubt that Rizwan will be struggling any time soon.

The Aftermath

Rizwan’s photo was captured, then I felt I could take the photos above  of the ready Dishes.

I would certainly return to Lahore Karahi, and expect to pay in full, the aforementioned two Dishes are up my street. With sixteen more Tooting Curry Houses to investigate, more trips to – that – London are required.

Power to the Hector!

2023 Menu

The trek to Tooting Bec…

Dawat, across from Lahore Karahi, opens at 08.00, whereas next door Saravana Bhava opens at 10.00, both remain open all day thereafter.

Hyderabadi Zaiqa and Al Mirage open at noon.

Watan opens at 12.00.

Lahore Spices opens daily at noon, Spice Village similarly, on Fridays at 14.00.

Kolam – South Indian Restaurant, opens at 18.00. Chatkara opens daily at 11.00 and is the only restaurant on this stretch staying open after midnight.

Both Namak Mandi and Royal Mahal open daily at 12.00, (14.00) on Fridays.

 

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Glasgow – Sheerin Palace – Kofta Anda Day

Hector let loose in Glasgow on a Wednesday? That can only mean one thing, Kofta Anda at Sheerin Palace (300 Allison St, Govanhill/Crosshill, Glasgow, G42 8HQ).

The notion – took me to The Village on Monday for Kofta Palak, there was the realisation that today it could be interesting to attempt some sort of comparison.

Arriving it 14.45, five big chaps in their twenties stood in a line on my side of the counter. The scene was like something out of a Tarantino movie, what was about to unfold? Mein Host was on the phone, was he calling for assistance? I parked my coat on a chair in the dining area such that I could observe all. Two Takeaway orders were assembled, they paid, cash only, at Sheerin Palace, all was well.

The tray with Kofta Anda was on display under the glass counter, for once I resisted the Aloo Gobi. Mein Host took the Order: Kofta Anda, one Chapatti, one Meat Samosa. I returned to my seat, at other tables the debris from two previous diners was in situ, and would remain so. There is no ceremony here, there’s no menu or prices on display either, WYSIWYG. Things are different in Govanhill, double parking along Garturk Street is also OK. MOT central.

A chap brought a Chapatti from the kitchen, he looked around, as there was no-one else, he placed it in front of me. Large, Wholemeal, well fired in parts, this would do the job, albeit, there would be the inevitable splashes. One cannot have Rice with Kofta Anda.

Mein Host came through and addressed me in Urdu. I would like to think that I am well known in these parts, this was a first. Meat – Samosa was reconfirmed at the second attempt, in English.

Kofta Anda

Four Meatballs, only four? The Village served five and they may have been larger. Ah, but … here was the hard boiled Egg, the Anda. The Shorva looked to be its usual inviting self. This is Visit #20, Curryspondent Reybans put me in my place in early visits, Shorva is what this dish is all about. One needs a spoon.

The first intake of Shorva caught the back of the throat,  Spice, Seasoning and Soupy, authentic Shorva. Desi Man! I cut the Meatballs up into smaller pieces, not necessary, but who wants this to stop in four bites? These Kofta had the required level of Seasoning, and seemed more – Meaty, one up to Sheerin Palace, Monday’s at The Village were somewhat lacking. The Meatballs here were better by far, however, The Village had the intensity of a Palak-rich Masala accompanying, so here the comparison has to end.

Why the Egg is such a crucial part puzzled for years. Maybe the hard yolk soaks up some of the Shorva? The Diversity of Texture? Whatever, it works. Kofta Anda at Sheerin Palace is always a treat. (available Wednesday & Saturday)

Samosa

At first I thought there were two, something to do with the fold in the pastry. Hot, greasy, the Samosa was packed presumably with Lamb Mince, plus surprisingly large pieces of Potato. Had it arrived first, I would have enjoyed my first ever Samosa at Sheerin Palace, but I had Shorva. Dipping the contents of the Samosa in the Shorva added even more Flavour, excellent.

Accompanying the Samosa was a Salad/Garnish. Two wee bits of Tomato, the last Tomato in Glasgow? Actually the grocers on Allison Street have loads, £3.00 a kilo, watch the prices in the supermarkets rise, and rise. For the record, there is no shortage of Tomatoes in the EU. Thank you, Boris, once again. Can’t wait for my next hour long queue at a European airport passport control.

I watched Mein Host decant the remaining contents of the tray of Kofta Anda into Takeaway containers.

The Bill

£8.00   Govanhill prices.

Mein Host had his coat on and was leaving as I approached the counter to pay. The amount was relayed to his replacement whom I recognised, and vice versa, but not from here.

The Aftermath

At 15.30 there were three portions of Kofta Anda left and lots of Tomatoes in Allison Street.

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Glasgow – The Village “Curry House” – A Late Lunch

Marg, already on the Southside, declared herself free for Curry-Heute. Such was the level of enthusiasm, Marg had secured a table at The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA) and was waiting for my arrival at 15.00. Only two other tables were occupied, soon we would have the place to ourselves. A new daytime manager was on duty this afternoon.

The lunch menu had been brought to the table despite the fact that it expired at 14.30. Marg was having the two course Lahore (£7.95) deal with an extra 50p for Lamb Curry. Vegetable Pakora would be the Starter. Instead of taking the Chapatti (two) option, I persuaded Marg to have the Naan. Hector was ordering from the main menu. Spinach was calling once again: Kofta Palak (£11.95), a Curry which guarantees an intensity of Flavour.

The waiter (manager) was taken aback when I ordered Kofta Palak without having consulted the main menu. He recognised that I must be a regular, and one who knows his Curry. I didn’t introduce myself.

There was no sign of Mr. Baig, Mein Host this afternoon, though Kasif’s big brother who works in the kitchen, did acknowledge me when he passed by.

Vegetable Pakora

Three large pieces, double fried, were accompanied by a Dip and a modest Salad. No Tomatoes, of course, we’ll see how high the price goes in the coming weeks. We had to make do with Cucumber, Onion, and the dreaded Green Pepper.

Hector was permitted one of three, and so can report with confidence: Spicy, Tasty, and the Dip upped the experience. One does not eat enough Vegetable Pakora, who can then justify a Main Course?

The Naan arrived cut into four pieces, well almost cut through. Folded, Marg wondered if there would be enough to share. Once opened, the Naan proved to be substantial. With a thin centre and risen, puffy, soft edges, we both had the our preferred parts.

*

Lamb Curry

I didn’t, but I could almost taste that blended Masala. Marg did a Meat count, important when having the Lunch Menu. Six was the total, though a couple of pieces were toty.

One assumes the distinctive Village Taste was present. Marg wasn’t saying much as she took care of her Lamb Curry other than:

This is a good portion for me.

However, I know that Marg eats all that is set before her.

Kofta Palak

The food was – Hot! A quiet Village is when it is at its best. Busy, or dining in large numbers, and one’s meal can be left to sit and cool. This was straight from the hob.

Five medium-sized Kofta sat in the dark, Herb-rich Masala. Each Meatball was halved in order to make the Meat to Masala ratio appear more favourable. The Masala was wonderfully rich in Flavour. One assumes there was more than just Spinach in there. Yadgar declare five Herbs in their Saag/Palak. The Seasoning was on the button in the Masala, but on biting into the first Kofta, distinctly lacking. Eating directly from the karahi with a spoon, the plan was to have the Masala with the Naan and eat the Meatballs separately. However, without the Masala, the Kofta were not giving all they should. This meant I ate less Bread.

Once sorted, the Curry was much to my liking. Spinach, Hector has his notions, one wonders what triggers this one?

A large group entered as we finished, we timed it well. 15.00, the optimum time to eat.

The Bill

£20.40  Still great value.

The Aftermath

Across the street lies a takeaway coffee shop – Mulkanwan. Marg has been keen to sample their Coffee. A pleasant chap, Mein Host confirmed that of the thousands meant to be working at Barclay’s Folly, the majority still work from home. Predictable.

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Hector Cooks – Namkeen Karahi – Fish Karahi – Have Curry Will Travel

Craig and Lesley’s invitation for dinner in Helensburgh, with Hector cooking of course, has effectively been in place, for years. We all know why it has taken so long to fix the date. Usually when one receives a dinner invitation, the host cooks. However, Hector feeding Carnoustie is well documented in these pages. At least tonight was dinner for four, not eight plus.

The venue was Burnbrae, where, in the early years of Curry-Heute, Hector taught the school leavers how to make Curry. It was Craig and Lesley who ran – Life After Lomond – and they took part. In the spirit of giving one more Curry lesson, it was agreed that I would – teach – the making of a Tomato-based Fish Karahi in situ and bring a prepared Lamb Curry.

I have been keen to make a Namkeen Karahi for some time. Having studied many recipes online, some contain neither Tomato or Onions. As I was faced with preparing a Tomato-based Masala later, I decided to go with Onions. House of Sher was visited on Wednesday, a kilo and a half of Lamb was purchased along with frozen Tilapia, and other fresh Herbs & Spices. Today was a long day of cooking.

Namkeen Karahi, basically, nothing – red – goes in. Salt and Pepper, various, are the key ingredients, Sources include Cumin Seeds and Poppy Seeds, I went with these. Both finger Chillies and Bullet Chillies would add a further – kick.

Being a special occasion, I opted for Ghee over Oil, the Lamb, on-the-bone, was browned in the melted Ghee then Ginger and Garlic Pastes were stirred through along with the Salt. Already, the Meat was releasing moisture.

The roughly cut huge Onion was added, and left to cook for a few minutes. Meanwhile, the Cumin Seeds and Black Peppercorns were ground simultaneously. This mix was then added along with White Pepper, Coarse Black Pepper and the Poppy Seeds. Nothing – red – hence the term – White Karahi.

Slow, patient, cooking is the key to success I have ascertained. What resembled a Lamb Stew at 14.00 had dramatically changed by 17.00. The quantity of moisture released took me by surprise, yet no liquid was added. Two hours on the lowest gas setting, stirring every twenty minutes or so, the lid on, and I was left with a wetter Curry than I hoped to present. The Chillies were stirred in, then some Yoghurt. Again, the inclusion of Yoghurt is debatable, being – white – this felt appropriate. Even with the lid off for the final hour, still on a low gas, the level of moisture was retained. However, all signs of the Onion had vanished other than the Masala having acquired a decent viscosity, This was not – Shorva.

Namkeen Karahi

After the full three hours of simmering it was time to taste.

Oh yes!

The Meat had already fallen off the bone whilst stirring. After three hours it was decidedly – melt in the mouth Tender. As for the Flavour, this was exactly what was desired at the outset. Peppery! – with a true depth of Flavour. The Spice Level was pitched well for the intended audience, Marg, at least, should love this.

The – Namkeen Karahi Recipe – is posted based on 1kg of Meat.  Proud as the Hector is of this creation, it comes with a caveat.

The Karahi was left to cool for an hour then decanted to a plastic tub for transportation. It was some three hours later when the Namkeen Karahi was placed on the hob for reheating. Had it been possible, I would be asking – who substituted this for my Curry?

Earlier I had made the decision not to force this into becoming a Dry Karahi, but the moisture had gone regardless. The lengthy reheating was doing no favours, the Karahi just became drier and drier such that it resembled a Saag/Palak.

Rather than add the Coriander as a garnish I decided to go for it, this was cooked in. Finally, I had to add Water, else all would have been burnt. What went on the plate bore no resemblance to what I had cooked this afternoon.  Perhaps this is another feature which differentiates – Karahi – from – Curry?


Whilst the Lamb was slowly cooking, the Spices were prepared for the Fish Karahi. Despite having made a Tomato-based Masala previously, the Spices not included stand out. Sources suggest Fish should not be left to marinade for too long, an hour being ideal. It was some three hours before cooking #2 was underway, the delay was due to the amount of time to have Naan delivered in Helensburgh.

Two work stations were set up, Marg was my assistant, Lesley would be on Craig’s team, a competition? Craig and Lesley had provided the Tomatoes, twenty four were asked for, only eighteen in total could be sourced in Helensburgh. Something is afoot, no Tomatoes in our supermarkets?

One assumes that when halving a Tomato, one cuts through the stem scar. For the purposes of removing the skin, it feels more logical to cut at right angles to the stem scar. Last time, the skins came off without having to turn over the Tomatoes, tonight not so. This took way longer than envisaged, meanwhile the reheating Namkeen Karahi was suffering.

The full – Fish Karahi Recipe – is posted, and so the few Spices went in once the Tomatoes had disintegrated to a pulp. In time, and with lots of stirring, the pulp became a rich Masala. The final touches: adding the Methi, Yoghurt, then cooking in the Coriander and Garam Masala. Thus the desired Masala was created. Laborious in terms of the removal of the Tomato skins and stirring, but with relatively few ingredients.

Marg was charged with cutting up the Tilapia. Her concept of – bite-size – was smaller than mine. The contents of Craig’s pot had a different hue, down to the shape of the pot and the lighting. It was agreed that we would test both, and so portions from each pot were arranged on the plate.

As it happens, both Fish Karahi tasted the same. Fish Karahi, Hector’s – Holy Grail – in terms of Curry. Around the table the noises were positive. The extent to which this was – politeness – can never be established. Lesley noted the Citrus, so the Marinade had worked.

Fish Karahi

A chunkier Fish would have made the experience even grander, Tilapia seemed a bit thin. All but a Soupçon of the Fish Karahi in both pots remained at the end of the meal. This was meant to be a – Side – to the main event, the Namkeen Karahi.

Foreground: Namkeen Karahi – Background: Fish Karahi

Marg declared the Namkeen Karahi to be – Peppery. Again, positive comments, however, the Hector was less than impressed. Adding Water should never have been required. Cooking in the Coriander had felt the way ahead.. This was simply not the wonderful Karahi I had cooked earlier. This was – decent – in no way outstanding. Cook and serve immediately – the lesson learned.

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – Friday Night Curry

Hector out on a Friday night, so pre-retirement. Alan suggested Curry night for the chaps only, and the venue: Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ). Who am I to disagree?

Approaching Karahi Palace at 20.00, the disco lights were flashing upstairs, a wedding reception, soon to reach its conclusion. I took my preferred place in the ground floor seating area. Ayaz, Mein Host, was in the cooking spot, a new chap was front of house serving, possibly brought in especially for the evening. We had timed it well, an hour earlier, who knows how long we could have waited. The down side, we never saw the Fayre that went upstairs.

Alan was having Hector’s usual Order – Karahi Lamb – (£12.00) in the preferred style: extra Salt, extra Methi, with a Chapatti (£1.00). Having had this six days ago, it was time for Hector to have the great alternative: Lamb Korma Spicy (£10.00) with Mushroom Rice (£5.00). Whilst the new guy wrote down the Order, I was communicating to Ayaz that we wanted – the full Bhuna.

Spicy – was therefore added to the mix.

Coffee, served in paper cups, was the only foodstuff I saw go upstairs. In time, the weans stopped running around, all was quiet on the Tradeston Front. A Modest Salad and Raita were brought to the table. The presence of Cucumber in both meant Alan was not having these. In the end, both remained untouched. When the jug of Tap Water arrived, Alan mentioned – bleach. Somebody reads Curry-Heute. As noted on Saturday, this appears to have subsided.

Karahi Lamb

Topped with the customary Ginger Strips and Coriander, the Karahi was ever so hot. Allan watched the sizzling, and realised he would have to wait for partial cooling, else he would have done himself damage. The Chapatti was served halved. We studied it then agreed it could have been made from a mixture of Wholemeal and White Flour.

Having described this Curry a hundred times, it’s good to have another person’s take on it. Alan will always count the bones, tonight he had fewer then me. His first ever Karahi here was described as – a bag of bones. Not so tonight, but Alan reckons the overall portion size has shrunk, well the Meat content. He took up Ayaz’ offer of a second Chapatti, however, only a fraction of this was required. The – half Chapatti – has to be invented.

That was very tasty – was the spontaneous comment as he wiped the karahi clean.

Lovely, very spicy, less meat in the portion.

This is compared to his last visit here which was pre-Lockdown. How has he denied himself the pleasure for so long? In this period, we had discussed sharing the kilo, alas, Hector is not yet ready for this challenge with only two diners.

Lamb Korma Spicy

Served in a bowl, without Toppings, because this is Curry, not Karahi. Alan noted the more – Soupy – nature of the Dish also, hence the need for Rice. The Masala was dark, menacingly so. I decanted the solids and some Masala, leaving the remainder for the end game.

Mushroom Rice

Twice the price of the standard Rice Dishes, the quantity is commensurate. I had already declared that half was going home. This is a effectively a Biryani, the Mushrooms offering Diversity. The Spices in the Rice complement the Curry, this has become a tried and tested combination.

Cloves! – registered immediately, and aggressively so. The Spice Level was distinctly high, the Seasoning spot on, for Hector. Apart from Clove, the depth of Flavour here was stunning. I awaited the possible – Citrus – not tonight. I asked Alan if he had been to Kabana (Manchester), not yet. This Spicy Korma was comparable to their so-called Karahi. The Texture of the Lamb took me back to Kabana, and this is a major compliment. Two – Sucky Bones – it was all happening on Hector’s plate.

Spicy? The Spice Level seemed to grow. On biting into a Peppercorn, I studied the Masala, none. On digging through the remaining Rice, – aha!

Ayaz had certainly pulled out all of the stops, most certainly the – Fiercest Curry – I have ever been served at Karahi Palace.

*

The Bill

£31.00    There is evidently an extra charge for – Bespoke Curry.

The Aftermath

Ayaz was beaming, then laughed aloud – Spicy!

I ate it – was the response.

Anyone can add Chillies and up the Spice Level, to do so and retain this depth of Flavour, takes special skill.

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Glasgow – Yadgar – Fresh & Simple

An alternative favourite meal at Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP) has evolved. This features two Starters and one Curry, the latter being Vegetables. In September, Hector went – a Chapli too far. Sold at £3.50 for a pair, today, one would suffice, on the assumption that Fish Pakora (£5.00) was available.

Arriving at 15.00, Naveed was behind the counter.

Fish Pakora? This was confirmed.

One Chapli, something Vegetable.

Potatoes, Carrots and Peas (£5.00), just made.

One Chapatti?

No Chapatti (£0.70).

Such is the diversity of this Order, Bread is not required, though it has taken time to establish that. I took a seat at the smallest table, other diners were in situ. Today, the heated window seats were initially unoccupied, it’s warm for February.

Shkoor, Mein Host, arrived, always welcoming, and surprised when I have not made contact in advance to order kilos(s) of Goshat Karahi (£30.00). It is some time since Hector had the full Yadgar experience. I assured Shkoor that the chaps from Paisley are keen to come for a feast (and fill the coffers). For the record, Chapatti John was here last week and had a kilo of boneless Karahi, sneaky.

A Complimentary Salad, featuring sliced, Pickled Chillies and copious Onions was presented along with the customary two Dips. Today, the Chilli Sauce was not heated, too warm outside? I accepted the can of Mango Rubicon (£1.00) which Naveed brought out. All was set.

*

Fish Pakora

A plateful of Fish in Spicy Batter, Haddock is the norm at Yadgar. Freshly made, always a treat. I asked Naveed if this is always available. For years it was brought on a Complimentary basis, but sporadically. Apparently it’s always available, but only after the Oil has been heated. So not immediately after opening time then.

Five large pieces of Fish, plus a tiddler, the largest portion of Fish served to Hector in some time. Why do restaurants not give this much in a Fish Curry? Best eaten straight from the kitchen, I have had this as a Takeaway, the impact is then lost. I decided to eat the Fish Pakora in two sessions. Firstly with the Chapli Kebab, then as the – meat – accompaniment for the Vegetable Curry. The overall quantity should have been manageable, especially without Bread, or so I thought.

Chapli Kebab

I’ve tried making these, but why bother when Yadgar do them so well? Chicken Mince is the base, yes, Hector does order Chicken at Yadgar. Spicy, tasty, I could eat them until the cows, or Chickens, come home. Limiting the Order to one showed self-restraint, I was determined to finish all I had ordered. Well, not the green bits in the Salad. Hector is a self-respecting – Weegie – after all.

There was a welcomed gap before the Aloo Gajar Mutter was brought, this meant the food on the table could be eaten whilst hot, apart from the Salad. It was delivery time. Having observed the – Pearl – Cooking Oil being brought into Karahi Palace on Saturday, today I can confirm that Yadgar use – KTC – as do Ambala. KTC is available in domestic quantities in supermarkets. I am not on commission.

Aloo Gajar Mutter

Potatoes, skins on, Carrots and Peas, topped with Ginger and Coriander, sat in a mushy Masala; this is a meal in itself, and a rewarding one. It never fails to amaze me that – The Yadgar Taste – associated with their Karahi, can be present here. As is written oft, I have speculated as to how this is achieved. Carrots – has been denied, well they would.

I took around half of the Vegetable Curry and set the remainder aside. I knew already that a – doggy bag – would be required.

The next time Naveed passed, the other half  was taken back to the kitchen.

The remaining Fish complemented the Potatoes, Peas and Carrots. The Potatoes had absorbed Flavour from the Minimal Masala, the slight Sweetness from the Carrots added another dimension. The Peas played their part, and not just as – Ballast. This is a favourite combination of Vegetables, but certainly not in European cooking. The Spice brings out so much more from these humble Vegetables.

Reminiscent of a scene from – Are You Being Served? – Mr. Anwar Sr. entered. He too stopped to greet. I had to ask how his kitchen maintains such consistency and high quality. Keeping things – fresh and simple – was the reply. I admitted that some of the (jars of) Spices in my cupboard are – old – in fact, I’ve forgotten what some of them are. He insisted that Dry Spices should not lose their Flavour. However, such is the turnover at Yadgar, they are hardly going to have – Old Spice!

I ate on, happy that I had sent half of the Aloo Gajar Mutter back for packing. I mopped up the Oily residue with the last morsels of Fish Pakora. I could have this meal every week, but as unfolds below, morally, I cannot. Anyway, as it’s the start of a new year, I’ll have to get back to the other delightful venues on Allison Street.

The Bill

Shkoor held up the card machine – £5.00.

I’m not paying that, add another three.

It should have been appreciably more, but Hector has long admitted to receiving special treatment, well I do promote Yadgar, often. That I only had – Vegetables – was again the justification. The card machine was presented once more:

£7.50

This is not how haggling is meant to work – I informed Shkoor.

(Though Marg thinks it does.)

The Aftermath

I told Shkoor where the – doggy bag – was bound and outlined – The Monday Club.

Retirement? I recommend it.

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – Turtles Have Got Short Legs

12.45, Marg dropped Hector at Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) en route to hockey. The shutters were down, the door unlocked. 13.00, I believe is the current opening time. There was no sign of Ayaz, the new, mature chap behind the counter greeted. He was clearly busy with preparation.

Are we open?

He is coming – was the reply.

I took my spot.

After a few minutes, the Order was taken: Karahi Lamb (£12.00) and one Chapatti (£1.00). Hector would forego the customary tweaks, no – more Methi, extra Salt. I settled down to watch football on the Oppo. VAR is doing my head in, no consistency.

The chap brought a plate and napkins, a jug of Tap Water was secured. Today, no bleach taste. A one man show, he was doing well to get both bits of my meal ready. 

The Wholemeal Chapatti arrived in quarters, not the end of the World, however, do that to a Naan and all is not well. I would eat all but a crumb.

Karahi Lamb

Unbelievably, this was my first visit to Karahi Palace this year. Consistency, the name of the game. Super-hot, the Karahi Lamb was topped with Ginger Strips and a threat of Coriander. It looked as if Chef Rashid/Ayaz had prepared this wonderful creation. The method in how pre-cooked Lamb is transformed into Karahi is slowly being divulged on YouTube, achieving these particular results remains a secret. This may have been partly revealed today.

The Seasoning was there, the Spice Level was not demanding, fewer sliced Green Chillies than the regular Chefs would have added.

McKellar Watts – for meatiness! The Meat was so Tender, full of the Flavour of Lamb and giving back Spice. The Tomato-based Masala was as astonishing as ever, immense Flavours. So few bones today, a lot of eating.

Ayaz entered around 13.20 carrying supplies, he was surprised to see me tucking in. I gave the thumbs up, his assistant had done me proud. The fifty litre drum of – Pearl – cooking oil was a revelation. I wonder how much this cost? I shall hopefully source this soonest, along with Coley and King Fish.

The shutters were finally raised, the sunlight flooded in. When does winter arrive?

I ate on. The karahi was wiped clean. Astonishing Karahi, why this place is not queued out from opening time remains a mystery. Ignore the modest surroundings, try the Curry!

The Bill

£13.00   No tweaks, so no tweak charge.

The Aftermath

Where are your friends? – asked Ayaz.

Too early – was the reply. Once again an early kick-off due to that sport which commands part-time interest.

It looks as though I’ll be back here on Friday. Will Alan have Karahi or the Spicy Korma (with Mushroom Rice)? Six more days and all shall be revealed.

Turtles Have Got Short Legs

 

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Glasgow – Taste of Chennai – Ten Years After Kama Sutra, to the day

As reported on Saturday, there were balloons outside Taste of Chennai (331 Sauchiehall Street, Glasgow, G2 3HW) to mark the rebranding, Kama Sutra is no more. When Marg announced she would join Hector for Curry-Heute, this seemed the perfect opperchancity to investigate the alterations. Today, February 6th, marks the tenth anniversary of my first, and only, visit to Kama Sutra.

Before entering, we went in search of Southern Spice. Somehow it became a Kebap shop without me realising, presumably during the era of Covid. Tuk-Tuk – Indian Street Food closed recently, Indian Gallery a while back, this part of Sauchiehall Street needs Curry Houses.

How I missed the opening of Glassy Central (285 Sauchiehall Street, Glasgow G2 3HQ), a few doors along from Taste of Chennai, puzzles. Glasgow’s first – Desi Bar – this sounds appealing. However I note the opening times have been revised, so no more Lunchtime opening. 16.00 does not suit the Hector eating pattern, it could be some time therefore before Glassy Central is reviewed. They do advertise Lamb on-the-bone (£8.50).


Marg and Hector entered Taste of Chennai at 15.00. We were offered the window table in the otherwise empty restaurant, declined. A booth along the left wall was chosen. The décor is bright, partitions and pillars made capturing the layout difficult. It is a marked change from what I recall as being a dark and mysterious venue previously.

Mein Host brought the menu, he confirmed that Taste of Chennai opened on Friday, the balloons didn’t last long. Kama Sutra was in situ for thirteen years, new owners and some new Chefs were declared, and a new menu. Having studied the menu online, Chettinadu Fish Curry (£11.99) was already in Hector’s mind. I had sold Marg on the Lamb Pepper Curry (£11.99).

The Rice section is extensive. Today, Marg was having Rice, not her customary Chapatti (£1.50). I suggested we share Veg Fried Rice (£6.99). With Plain Rice at £2.99, this should surely be enough to share. A 750ml bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.99) completed the Order.

Spice Level was then discussed. Marg opted for – medium.

I can handle Spicy – was boasted.

Chicken, Lamb and Fish are priced the same, unusual. I was at least happy not to be paying a premium for Fish Curry. Perhaps the – meat – quantity is adjusted accordingly.

From my seat, I tried to take photos of the layout. Better ones were secured at the end of the meal. At 15.00, the lady hostess brought hot plates, a bit quick, but at least we were not going to be taken prisoner as it felt at The Wee Curry Shop on Saturday.

Mix Veg Rice

What came, took me by surprise. The aroma was decidedly – not Indian.  Despite the menu stating – Cumin and Indian Spices, this Rice was a creation from further East. 

The quantity of Vegetables disappointed, the content/array also. It is some time, OK, three weeks,  since the Hector was exposed to the dreaded Ballast, here were strips of both Red and Green Capsicum. Slivers of Cabbage (?) and sliced Syboes were mixed through. Indian Restaurants, as experienced in India, across Europe and back to the UK, serve Mixed Vegetable Rice containing – Carrots, Peas, Green Beans Cauliflower/Broccoli. Not at Taste of Chennai.

No Onion Raita arrived as per menu description.

There was enough to share, though a Chapatti could well have been managed.

Chettinadu Fish Curry

The dark – Soupy – Masala was as expected. It doesn’t have to be this way, however, outwith Indian Mango (München), who set the standard by which all Chettinad is compared, this is how it is. Having decanted the first piece of Fish to the Rice, there was almost a cry of joy at finding an entire steak slice of King Fish below. Fish Curry on-the-bone, yay! Travancore (Aberdeen) this was not. As we all know: King Fish, aka Surmai/Wahoo/Spanish Mackerel, has dark flesh which cooks white.

Four whole cloves of Garlic were in the Masala; the irony that this became the largest Vegetable on the plate was not lost. Some Diversity at least.

The Spice Level built slowly. There was no big blast of South Indian Curry, no Red Chillies, no roasted Coconut. I was evaluating the Seasoning when finally, the Fish gave off its true Flavour. A Fish Curry that tastes of – Fish – too much to ask in too many venues. Something then triggered the release of the recognisable South Indian Flavour, never strong, at last it arrived. This was more like it.

The strong Texture of the Fish was a positive, I’m going to stand at the freezer section in an Asian grocer and hopefully establish what’s what. Coley (Pollock) and King Fish will have to be sourced. With the ratio of Fish to Masala weighted towards the latter, it became a matter of course that I would be left with Rice and Masala, nay Fish. This is where the Vegetables could have provided more, sadly not today.

An enjoyable Curry, not outstanding, however, the Hector did something in an attempt to rectify the situation.

Lamb Pepper Curry

Really, how – Soupy – can a Curry be presented? There was no sign of anything genuinely solid in the Masala. Maybe the floaters were the skins of the famed Dried Red Chillies, Marg wasn’t saying. Marg didn’t count the Meat, but she was finished long before me. I had bones to pick out and notes to take.

With regards to the Lamb:

Varying sizes and texture, not melt in the mouth – was announced.

As she ate, so Marg declared that she prefers – by far – Curry that is not – soupy. Well she has eaten at some of the finest Curry Houses across many nations.

I took a Soupçon of the Masala. Ah-ha! This was much more potent, enough to make Marg cough. The hoped for, and distinctive, South Indian Curry Taste was there. Peppery indeed.

Marg couldn’t bring herself to pour her remaining Masala over the Rice. Rather than see it wasted, the Peppery Masala crossed the table. And so Hector’s Chettinad was given a much needed boost. Marg’s verdict:

A good kick with black pepper dominating. The Veg Rice was a lovely contrast to the sauce.

Of the thirty five restaurants defined in Curry-Heute as Glasgow’s – City Centre, fourteen (40%) have closed in the time of this Blog. Impressive as some venues may be, not one has made it to – Glasgow’s Top Rated. They are not visited oft, kept for – special occasions – when ambience becomes a determining factor. Glasgow’s – City Centre – is not the Hector’s Curry playground.

The Bill

£34.96   Better than being in the Merchant City.

The Aftermath

On holding the new Oppo aloft to show the review of Kama Sutra, ten years ago, today, the hoped for impact was not realised. The Calling Card was given to the lady who passed it on to her male colleague for scrutiny. Do people reviewing Curry Houses not introduce themselves?

Hector needs to cross the river. 

Taste of Chennai Menu

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Glasgow – The Wee Curry Shop – Buccleuch Street – An Open And Shut Case

Having closed in 2020, The Wee Curry Shop (7 Buccleuch Street, Glasgow G3 6SJ) opened again towards the end of last year. As Hector understands it, the people who ran it, as part of the Mother India chain, have their own Curry Cottage around the corner on Cambridge Street. Competition.

Due to a lesser sporting event, Curry-Heute was early today. Dr. Stan, yes he who avoided all Curry in Manchester last week, arranged to meet Hector at Bombaywalla at 13.00. Surprisingly, Bombaywalla was closed, though later, Mags did find a note online stating this is temporary, until February 12. I led Dr. Stan towards Curry Cottage, but then sprinted ahead, sort of, to see if The Wee Curry Shop was open. It was. Clearly, opening times have changed since the relaunch, Hector’s preferred mid-afternoon Curry is now an option. Visit #3 to Curry Cottage will have to wait, it was time for Visit #3 to The Wee Curry Shop, some ten years after the last one.

Entering at 13.10, four tables were occupied already. A 13.00 opening time, impressive. The waiter showed us to a small table far left, adjacent to a corner table for four. All diners were crammed on to the tables for two, leaving space towards the centre of the room, and the windows. Today, Hector was not window dressing. For the record, the tables for two at the always excellent Mother India’s Cafe are appreciably larger.

Evidently, we were sat in what was formerly the legal premises next door, The Wee Curry Shop has doubled in size. When we departed, eighty seven minutes later, the same tables remained occupied, the chap clearing and wiping as more diners arrived. Why did he keep people standing when so many tables were free? Why so crammed?

The menu was brought, the Lunch Menu: £8.00 or £10.00 for one or two courses, respectively. Having dismissed the Vegetarian and Chicken options, this left – Simple Lamb Curry – and – Lamb Mince and New Potato, hardly riveting. I asked for the Main Menu (below), it was pretty much the same with the added option – Garlic Lamb and Mushrooms (£12.50). OK, one presumes larger portions, but with Rice, why pay more when a Starter was in the offing?

Vegetable Pakora, Simple Lamb Curry, Rice, was the obvious choice from the Lunch Menu. I suggested we share an Aloo Gobi with Peas (£8.50) from the Main Menu. Dr. Stan was on board with this, he added a Fresh Orange (£2.80).

No Drinks Menu was actually provided, so no Sparkling Water for Hector, tap would suffice. Other diners were tucking into Lager, one couple ordered what could have been Champagne. Why peak so early?

There was a slight taste of bleach from the tap water, but nothing like as strong as south of the river. Is nobody else noticing this? In West Dunbartonshire, our water is tasteless, and I drink loads of it, albeit with added bubbles.

Service is not something that Curry-Heute generally concentrates on, this Blog is about the food. However, today, everything seemed to take an eternity. Were they a man short? The waiter was rarely visible, hence people having to wait for tables to be cleared. There were two staff in the open kitchen, the Menu is limited, options few, so what was taking them so long to turn out the fayre?

Vegetable Pakora

I recall in the years before Curry-Heute, BC-H, yes there was such a time, being served an insulting potion of Pakora at The Wee Curry Shop (Ashton Lane). To receive six decent sized pieces today was therefore a relief. The Chilli Sauce seemed better than the usual. If the Pakora had been double fried, then this was not apparent, well cooked not overcooked. Dr. Stan remarked on the crispiness of the Vegetables, more than once. That the food was hot, and the Pakora Spicy, had the Hector won.

I haven’t had Pakora for a while – Dr. Stan informed me – I enjoyed that.

Six pieces, tasty and much appreciated.

From my corner, I could see much of the goings on. The smokers were out as often as they were in. Champagne at lunchtime, OK for some. The adjacent father and daughter were minutes ahead of us, two other tables ahead of them. Why so long? At 14.00 we still didn’t have our mains. Hector is prepared to wait, is used to doing so, for Karahi Gosht but Simple Lamb Curry? Surely, this is just out of The Big Pot. Of course this is a Mother India outlet, so where is the food actually cooked?

Our Curry and Rice arrived eventually, The waiter had an air of completion as he presented the Rice. I reminded him about the Aloo Gobi.

Simple Lamb Curry

We’re at a Mother India, the company that transformed Curry in Glasgow, educating the masses …including those of us who had yet to try the Curry Cafes across the river. Why – Simple?

Five decent sized pieces of Lamb sat in a Soupy Masala, not Shorva by the strict definition (cf. Sheerin Palace). That it was served in a soup plate was therefore appropriate. The Basmati was a sensible, manageable portion. Was one meant to ask for a dinner plate? There was no more room on the table. Tipping Rice on top of Curry just feels – wrong. It looks stupid. My neighbour had a Roti, I bet he regretted that.

Aloo Gobi with Peas

This looked the part, suitably Dry, with a Thick Masala, such as there was. Dunking this in the Soupy Masala would have been sacrilege. I arranged the Potatoes, Cauliflower and Peas around the edge of the soup plate. I can’t say I was aware of the Peas thereafter. I still had a significant amount of Rice to add.

More space, a dinner plate, why so crammed? Time to eat.

Simple Lamb Curry – there was no big blast of – anything. Had this been The Village, their unique telltale Flavours would have hit the palate, even in their Lunchtime Menu. Not here. In time I would unearth a Green Cardamom and one whole Peppercorn, but these could have been in the Aloo Gobi. The Lamb was delightfully Soft, but was not giving back any more Flavour other than of the Meat itself. Again, surely, this had been sat in The Big Pot and should have had time to absorb?

For a Mother India Curry, one has to question why this was on the menu.

The Aloo Gobi saved the day. Hector always tries to have Diversity, not just Meat and Masala. The Potatoes and Cauliflower did just that. The Texture of both was spot on, the Potatoes had visibly absorbed the Masala in which they had been sat.

There was a powerful Earthy Flavour from the Minimal Masala, even the Coriander Leaves hit the palate. The Potatoes did exactly what the Meat did not. We Had Seasoning, still moderate Spice, but this was simply streets ahead of the Lamb Curry.

Then there was the spare Rice, I dumped it on top.With the Meat almost gone, I was left with Masala soaked Rice, I put on my Biryani hat. A more potent Masala would have enhanced the experience, still, this wasn’t too shabby. Dr. Stan’s verdict:

A Simple Curry, quite liked the spice, a pleasant heat to it. It lived up to its name, good enough for all that.

Given the pedigree of the chain, Hector expected so much more. There used to be – Specials – to complement the menu, why such a limited range?

The Bill

£31.30  We had been well fed, eventually.

The Aftermath

A Calling Card had to be issued. Who knows where it well end up? The waiter did confirm that this was still – Mother India. I did go out of my way to praise Mother India’s Cafe, but as far as the mother shop is concerned, maybe it’s time to give them another chance, it has been thirteen years.

On Sauchiehall Street, there were balloons outside Taste of Chennai, the rebranded Kama Sutra. I feel a Fish Chettinad coming on. Dr. Stan said I missed another Curry House nearby, has Southern Spice gone? Hector Holmes is on the case. It’s good to see so many Curry Houses in the vicinity of Sauchiehall Street, who wants to pay Merchant City prices? Still, as those who follow these pages already know: the most authentic Curry is served south of the River Clyde.

The Wee Curry Shop Menu 2023

 

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