Glasgow – Sheerin Palace – Everything Spicier than Everything Else

With Hector free from kitchen duties this Sunday afternoon, ah well, why not? Sheerin Palace (300 Allison St, Govanhill/Crosshill, Glasgow, G42 8HQ) hadn’t been visited for a while. Having highlighted the opening of their former Chef, Zahir’s – Shahi Mahal– earlier this year to the level of recommendation,  it was back to the roots.

At 13.35, some ladies were queuing for Takeaway, four chaps were sitting in the dining area, awaiting their Order. I stood at the entrance to the dining area waiting to be served. Around six trays of ready-Curry were lined up in the display counter. Aloo Gobi was already in mind, but the words Lamb on-the-bone proved to be seductive. The Chicken Rice would accompany, in effect, two main courses. As ever prices cannot be quoted, is there a board which I keep missing, a menu even?

Cutlery, napkins and Raita were brought in a flash. My fellow diners appeared to be having Kebap based food.

The reheat didn’t take long, eating the mass of food which arrived did. Bread was offered and gracefully declined. Maybe I should try and ask for a half portion of Rice?

Chicken Rice

The Chicken Rice, a Biryani in effect, came with a Salad garnish. Raita was duly applied, the remainder would be useful if I ended up with Dry Rice. There was a powerful aromatic sense of Spice emanating from the Rice. The two pieces of Chicken, also on-the-bone, would be little more than a distraction.

Aloo Gosht

The two comparatively huge lumps of Potato gave it away, this was way more than Lamb on-the-bone. I counted the Meat into double figures as I arranged the pieces over the Rice. I retained some of the Shorva for later, Coriander stems were visible here.

Starting with the Rice, there was a big Clove presence. Aromatic indeed, this was Spicy Rice. The Lamb was suitably soft, and having sat in the Spicy Shorva had absorbed its Flavour. This was Desi Cuisine, and why the Hector favours these modest venues over Mainstream Restaurants. Curry Cafes are also more affordable for the frequent diner.

Lamb on-the-bone, delightful, pieces were picked up and gnawed as required. I dipped some of the Lamb back in the Shorva as I ate, why do I always eat the Meat separately? This was quite a portion of Curry. When I sensed the Spice from the Potato also, I realised that this meal was a collective challenge: everything was Spicier than everything else.

Both serving chaps checked on my progress, Hector is recognised, but still banter has yet to evolve. Whilst I ate, I heard a Takeaway customer order ten Naan. Who needs ten Naan?

Both Green and Black Cardamom were unearthed, it was no longer possible to tell from where. A small piece of Cinnamon Bark then the sleeve of a cooked in Green Chilli were encountered. Whole Spice, classic Curry.

As expected, the Chicken was no more than incidental, filling if nothing else. With bones set aside, then the remaining Shorva poured over the Rice and last bits of Lamb, it was just a matter of choosing when to stop.

I had been eating for some thirty minutes. Time for a lie down.

The Bill

£11.00    Amazing value.

The Aftermath

Alright? – asked the chap who has been here longest.

Excellent, tasty.

And so I headed back along along Allison Street. On passing the venue which has changed names more than any other in this city, there seemed to be more elaborate stickers on the window. What in the past has been a happy hunting ground for Curry:

Lasani Grill, Al-Anwar, Basharat G’z, Spice Haven, Nan Factory, is now Shinwari.

The short lived Shinwari used to be nearby on Langside Road, Hector Holmes is on the case.

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace (New-co #2) – We’re on our way to perfection

Imran Khan is in gaol, Donald Trump is not. Meanwhile in Glasgow, the city centre streets are blocked to traffic due to an ongoing international cycling event. With angry skies, Hector’s personal rain cloud looked as menacing as ever. Still no sign of summer, but the un-seasonal, cool temperatures suit the cyclists.

External forces dictate that Saturday afternoon Curry in Glasgow appears to be retreating towards lunchtime. Arriving at Karahi Palace (New-co #2) (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) the door was open but the shutters still down. Here we go again? Moiz, Mein Host, was in situ, assisted today by the young lady. There was no sign of a Chef.

Are we open? – I asked Moiz who was still wearing his outdoor jacket. Maybe he was just cold. Karahi Palace was in the process of being set up for the day.

Have you a Chef? – I had to ask, an equally important question.

I’m the Chef.

A month has passed since my last visit to New-co #2, then there was The Big Test, to produce Karahi Lamb (£12.00) worthy of a Hector. Then – Dry – was taken to the extreme, the Hector tweaks not yet applied. Today would be another landmark.

The Order was given: Karahi Lamb, a bit extra Salt, some Methi, plus a Tawa Chapatti (£1.00).

You don’t like it – Dry -, do you? – asked Moiz.

Dry Curry is what the Hector seeks, however, a scale of – Dryness – has yet to be established.

Not totally – Dry – not Soup.

The shutters were raised. Moiz got to work, standing in the spot where Ayaz and Chef Rashid have worked their wonders in years gone by. I sat in my usual seat, the lady brought a bottle of tap water and a Modest Salad. I nibbled on the Tomatoes. Decent Tomatoes, these had taste.

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It took Moiz twenty five minutes to produce the Karahi and Chapatti. The Wholemeal Chapatti was a welcomed sight, having seen some strange interpretations on my recent travels. A sensible size and with appropriate girth, this would do the job.

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Karahi Lamb

No Ginger Strips or sliced Chillies on top today, just a sprinkling of Coriander. The ratio of Masala to Meat was such that here was – Dry – as I am happy to define it. The peripheral Oil was minimal.

Wow! Moiz can cook!

The Seasoning was spot on, the Flavours from the Spices were a joy, a serious depth of Flavour had been achieved. Clearly this could not be identical to that served here over the years, but this was a new balance of Spice and Herbs, a glorious Lahori Karahi. Moiz may have assembled the Karahi, the preparation before contains the secrets.

In double figures today, the Meat was comparatively on the chewy side, this merely prolonged the pleasure, more Flavour hitting the palate. Two bones, one large – Sucky. Bone Marrow, such a key ingredient.

To provide variation, I arranged the Salad remnants on the side of the karahi, Diversity of Texture, I was loving this. If this standard can be maintained, then New-co #2 will soon earn its place in Glasgow’s Top Rated.

Another Chapatti was brought to the table, this would remain untouched. The Hector might manage 1.5 Chapattis, not today. Moiz admitted to managing 2.5.

Moiz was keen to hear the verdict.

Wonderful! – I assured him – if you get the Salt right, the rest comes.

He concurred. I had to ask how the Lamb had been cooked given that Karahi is an adjustment to pre-cooked Meat. Lamb boiled in Black Pepper – I believe was the reply. Moiz told me he has abandoned – Plum Tomatoes – in favour of fresh. By this I assume he meant – tinned. The technique of removing the skins was not known to him, a well known and reliable Curry Website would reveal all momentarily.

What is becoming the ritual presentation of Green Tea was hailed, and the news given that Moiz had Sparkling Water in his car. Then – The Big News. Chef Rashid is going to teach Moiz some of the secrets. That, I would pay to witness.

The Bill

£11.00 Special Price – declined. Let his father at Darbar Grill round downwards. Karahi Palace New-co #2 has to become established.

The Aftermath

Cooking techniques were further discussed. I showed my – Kitchen Sink Curry – cooked last night, and had to admit, I still cannot attain the Flavour I seek.

Chef Rashid, where are you?

And so to a bizarre bus route, is anything going through the city centre? It makes a change from another Hollywood blockbuster closing our streets. An elaborate system of flags and whistles enabled the public to cross the road.

Never mind summer, can we have our city back?

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Hector Cooks – A Kitchen Sink Curry

Tonight’s Beef Stroganoff was cancelled when Marg announced that she would be fed elsewhere. Having hardly cooked in recent weeks, the Hector felt the need to get back into the kitchen. There would be Curry-Heute!

A third recipe for a Desi Korma has been secured, it features – Mace – a Spice hitherto unknown in terms of usage, and its cousin – Nutmeg. However, the recipe produces a grand meal and tonight Hector was cooking for one.

A modest slice of Frying Steak was meant to complement a larger slice of Rump, however the latter stayed in the freezer. Leftover Roast Potato, and Hector’s favourite – Ballast – Mushrooms, should provide enough bulk. The basic Curry Recipe was as ever the basis for the Masala, thereafter, it was a case of anything/everything goes. The intended outcome was – Curry a la Hector: a Thick, Herb-rich Masala, and if that means an excess of Oil, so be it.

Whole Spice, always satisfying to unearth whilst eating a Curry. Into the hot Oil and slowly mashing Onions went a huge piece of Cinnamon Bark, diced Ginger, Cloves, both colours of Cardamom, Bay Leaves, Dry Red Chillies, Cumin Seeds, and Onion Seeds. I forgot – Star Anise and decided against Methi Seeds and Peppercorns. Teaspoons of the powdered Spices: Turmeric, Kashmiri Chilli, Garam Masala, and decidedly more Salt followed.

I have a bag of frozen whole Tomatoes which may feature in a future – skins-off Masala. Today, back to tinned Tomatoes and Puree plus the rinse of a near empty jar of Ginger and Garlic Paste.

Time for the Mace. Grated Mace, is this the missing link, the secret to creating that Special Flavour that restaurateurs can attain and the Hector cannot? How does one grate Mace? Next time I’ll grind it.

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Boiling Steak, why not? In a Stroganoff that is in effect what happens. Twenty minutes should suffice before adding the other Solids.

A dollop of Yoghurt, Fresh Coriander and a restrained dessert spoon of Dry Methi went in towards the end of cooking, everything but the kitchen sink. Actually I have many more unlabelled jars, I even know what’s in some of them. Maybe it’s that time to once again throw everything out and start afresh?

Time to serve, there was enough for two portions.

The Oil quickly separated in the karahi, not so attractive if having Bread, today was Rice. The Rice absorbed the Oil, end of.

Marg bought me a new Rice cooker, the results – stodgy Rice. I’ll need to give this more thought, its predecessor never did this.

 

With the Meat cut small into double figures, there was enough in theory, but the remaining portion should surely have half, so maybe not. The Steak had cooked perfectly, the thirty minutes plus in the Masala had done enough. I like Mushrooms in Curry, so leaving them in lumps always pleases. The Potatoes were simply Ballast, not enough time to absorb. A late night Portion #2 over the coming weekend may be a different story.

The Masala was classic – a la Hector. The Seasoning, tested before serving, was spot on. Consequently, everything else had a chance. How long since I’ve had a full dose of Methi? The Whole Spice set aside as encountered, satisfying. The Spice Level was far from being OTT, in terms of heat, but certainly intense otherwise.

Mace? I do not know what Mace tastes of, but what was apparent, despite being fundamentally a Hector Curry, something had been tempered. Is that what Mace does?

Apart from the Whole Spice, the plate was cleared. Another lesson learned this evening: the clearing of the plate was only managed because I sat at the dining table. When eating from a tray, the appetite quickly wanes.

Having originally been in the mood for Stroganoff, this wasn’t too shabby a Curry.

Methi, man!

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Crawley – Dosa Plazza – A Sri Lankan / South Indian Curry Experience

In the pages of Curry-Heute, Crawley is to England as Erlangen is to Deutschland. Provincial towns with perhaps a disproportionate number of Curry Houses and both covered exhaustively here, as one might expect. It is the final night of this trip and Curry was mooted, Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of this parish know the rule. A new Crawley Curry House was suggested, but being a Monday, it was closed. Two nights ago Clive had marched me to witness another new venue – Dosa Club – whose grand opening is imminent. But surely this is an offshoot of the already reviewed Curry House in nearby Langley Green (Crawley)?

In full Hector mode, Dosa Plazza (8 The Boulevard, Crawley RH10 1XX West Sussex, England) was duly suggested.

Where?

My Hosts were unaware of this Sri Lankan / South Indian addition to their quota of local Curry Houses. Being two minutes from our then locus added to the attraction.

Marg features in this post. She has been enjoying the European heatwave whilst managing to secure a Gold Medal in her European Hockey tournament a first for any Scottish team. Four nights ago, Marg was sporting her Gold Medal (made of wood) at a local Italian restaurant.

We entered Dosa Plazza at 20.00, not quite a restaurant per se, but more pukka than a Curry Cafe. It has been many years since Crawley hosted a true Curry Cafe: Desi Grill & Karahi House. Again, Clive and Maggie had not spotted their opening, but it didn’t last long.

Clive was quick to ask the charming Lady Host how long Dosa Plazza had ben here.

Two months.

This appeased Clive, but not the Hector, why did he not know?

Chettinadu Mutton Curry (£9.00) was on the menu. I had to ask if this was – Soupy – or served with a Thick Masala. A Curry Sauce – was the reply. At least now I knew what to expect. Is there only one Curry House on the planet which serves a Mutton/Fish Chettinad a la Hector?

I then enquired about – Sukka – which I could not see on the menu. After various pronunciations – Chukka – was recognised. Mutton Chukka (£10.99) was listed in the Starters section. This was confirmed to be appropriately – Dry – as it wasn’t last week at Spoonful of India (Brussel). Being a Starter, I declared this to be for sharing, how magnanimous. In reality, the Hector would not risk having this as a Main Course, or being full before the latter arrived. So far so good, things became even better. Plain Parrotta (£2.00) – had caught the eye.

Is this a Malabar Parotta? – was asked in hope, then confirmed!

With Hector’s three components in a South Indian meal sorted, levels of expectation were on the rise, the juices flowing. Less of that.

Maggie continued her Curry House ritual and chose Mutton Biryani (£9.50). Marg firstly announced Butter Chicken Masala (£8.50) then switched to Sri Lankan Mutton (£8.50) which she may have had at source. Why did we not record every meal in Sri Lanka back in 2003, as we did in India in 2016?

Having heard the menu, Clive thought he was missing out on an option. Chicken Kadai (£9.00), complete with the unnecessary Capsicum, became his choice, but only after the Host convinced him that Kadai and Karahi are interchangeable, and also pronounced the same way.

Ah had telt him that already.

I asked that all be brought together.

Given that – Soupy Curry – was established, I suggested that two portions of Pilao Rice (£3.95) might be enough for three. Marg stuck to her Chappati (2PCS) (£3.99) regardless. Normally one Chapatti suits Marg, but hey-ho, they come in pairs. Two quid for a Chapatti, not Curry Cafe prices then? Maggie clearly didn’t need Rice but called for another 2PCS of Chappati. Bread with Rice? Eight quid for four Chapattis? Just as well Keema Naan and Poppadoms were not a feature of this menu.

Sat at a table along the right hand wall, at 20.38, we were invited to move to a larger table opposite given the quantity of food we had ordered. A different perspective, and let’s note the trivia: the jugs of tap water are the same as used at Kabana (Manchester). We needed to know this.

The Mutton Chukka came first, it had reverted to being a Starter.

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Mutton Chukka

Initially I counted eight pieces of Meat, but this was revised upwards as the four forks returned for more. This was Dry Mutton encrusted with Spice and Herbs, reminiscent of the Lamb Mishkaki enjoyed in the early days of Curry-Heute at the relatively nearby Ram Sports & Social Club. Clive was beside himself back in the day when he discovered this.

Suddenly, the level of Spice was not an issue. The Seasoning and South Indian – Smokiness – was as powerful as hoped for, the Spice unforgiving. This was full on, no prisoners. Right up there with the Sukka which Hector has been enjoying, when the mood takes, at Bombaywalla (Glasgow), and previously at Banana Leaf (Glasgow) before their rebranding.

Success. Did someone eat the Salad Garnish?

The wait for the Mains was not long, we had been in situ for an appropriate length of time.

Two pots of Pilao Rice was more than required, especially with the Bread. One might have been enough, there would be no wastage.

Was Chappati spelled such to differentiate from – Chapatti? These were small, and bore little resemblance to anything encountered in sixty years of Curry eating. The density was remarked upon, far from the light, fluffy, floury, genre served anywhere else. And we had four of them. Hector has cooked better, and Hector cannot cook a Chapatti worth presenting. Three were eaten.

Then there was the Plain Parrotta, sat in all its grace.

At £2.00, the cheapest Malabar Parotta encountered, but they are a rarity. As is the custom they come in this uniform size.

White, light, soft, stretchy rather than flaky, and with the – spiral – visible, I insisted all try this wonderful Bread. This is the king of Bread accompaniments, and of course is the perfect companion to a Sukka/Chukka!

Mutton Biryani

Topped with a whole, hard-boiled Egg, the Rice was almost overflowing from the bowl. I managed to secure a photo of the decanted Biryani, enough Meat?

I did not spot the arrival of two pots, Yoghurt in one which was used today, then the Curry Sauce which went untouched. Meat Biryani is not my thing, and Biryani with an accompanying bowl of Masala may be a British thing. Vegetable Biryani is ordered wherever it is feasible as an affordable alternative to Vegetable Rice.

Maggie managed most of her Biryani, the surplus became the bottom layer in the Takeaway Rice.

Having a Biryani was better because the smoked spices are – whooo! It does calm down. I’d come back for the Chukka.

Chicken Kadai

I have seen many an attempt at Karahi, and sadly, this is another. In what way on this planet was this a – Karahi? Here is the link to one I had but five days ago. That was a Karahi. Why even pretend?

What do we have here? OK, Soupy Curry was promised, and was delivered. A thin Masala with the dreaded, and totally alien, assorted Capsicum protruding is enough to wind up the Hector. Peppers are not part of an authentic Karahi! Do I see BIG Blobs of Onion too? Hold me back. Then there’s the Chicken. However, I believe I saw some Brown Meat in there, maybe all was not lost. Is there such a thing as a – Chicken Curry? In these pages, the answer is typically – no!

Presumably, the Masala had potent Flavour. One can surely order better Curry at Dosa Plazza. Clive was positive, and comparing with the other new South Indian Curry House in Crawley, he was in raptures. Clive and Maggie had a horrible time there. And that’s where they wanted to take us earlier.

That was pretty good. Compared to the high street opposition, nothing can compete – remarked Clive.

This may have been an anathema in terms of – Karahi – but was reportedly packed with Flavour, the get out of gaol card.

The Happy Ending

Enough has been written already to put Dosa Plazza firmly on the Crawley Curry map, the following will have Hector seeking return visits here as and when.

Chettinadu Mutton

Yes we have – Soup – in the way that Indian Mango (München) does not. Dosa Plazza delivered what they declared. Continuing from the Chukka, here was the – Smokiness, Spice and Seasoning! Hector quite simply loves this combination, which is why such outlets are frequented.

Karahi Gosht every day would be dull. Dosa Plazza serve Aloo Gobi (£7.50) too, and the description of the Fish Curry (£8.50) includes both Tamarind and Methi. Hector’s next Order here was being formulated already.

Onion Seeds and Curry Leaves were in the mix, although not visible, I’m sure I was getting Cloves in there too. The Meat was super-soft, well cooked Mutton, which had absorbed the Spices and was therefore giving back the Flavours.

This was a Curry for eating with Rice, dipping the Parotta was risky business. Ah well, home tomorrow, a white t-shirt wash awaits.

There’s more. As Marg was managing her Chapattis and minimal Rice, she decided she had too much Masala, this was coming Hector’s way. I drew a line across my plate of Meat and Rice, Marg’s Masala would form part three of my meal.

Sri Lankan Mutton

Yet another Soupy Curry, but a darker brown, – onion masala – was the given description. Marg pulled out a Dried Red Chilli, aha, the missing link! These I associate most with South Indian Curry, from here comes the telltale – Smokiness. It was a home-ground Garam Masala rich in Dried Red Chillies that got me through Lockdown.

And so I cleared my plate featuring the Sri Lankan Masala. This was decidedly more potent than the Chettinad, just how much pleasure can a Hector have?

Marg’s verdict is in two parts, re the Chukka:

I thought that was stunning! The meat was very tender, and the dry sauce, full of flavour, that was lovely.

re the Sri Lankan Mutton:

Plenty meat, although a thin sauce. It mixed well with the Pilau Rice and added a nice (?) flavour with the Chapatti. I was disappointed with the texture of the Chapatti, not fluffy.

Overall, I was surprised I could handle the heat and found it a worthwhile dish.

Why was Marg surprised? She has been served Curry at home way more powerful than that served at Dosa Plazza. Not that she has particularly enjoyed it. I believe I have written this before, yesterday even.

It is not often I get to wipe two karahi clean, the final scraps of Parotta were put to good use. Not a grain of Rice was left on the plate, just the pile of Curry Leaves.

Aluminium containers were provided for the leftover Rice and Biryani, all went into one.  The – Chappati – was abandoned.

The Bill

£64.37 For four, Curry Cafe prices. How did Clive and Maggie not know of this place?

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was presented, the Sri Lankan entry on Curry-Heute shown. That Marg and I had been to both India and Sri Lanka had to be mentioned. Clive said he has been to India three times, and Maggie, once.

For reasons which may be revealed later in the year, there could be a long overdue return to the Ram Sports & Social Club, which has not featured in these pages since the early days of Curry-Heute. This means that The Downsman may become regarded as – remote. A return to Dosa Plazza is a given, Curry with powerful Flavours, this is what we seek.

Menu

 

 

 

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Ealing – Southall – Gifto’s Lahore Karahi – #1 Southall Curry

After the outstanding Lams Karahi at Afghan Darbar (Antwerpen), Hector was not ready to return to the Mainstream. Curryspondent Bill had long planted the seed to sample Curry in Southall, to the east of Heathrow Airport, in the Burgh of Ealing.  It may be a long way to Tipperary, however, it felt even longer travelling from Crawley to Southall. That the journey was completed in the seemingly endless rain, was not an enhancement. For the last ten days, the Hector appears to have had his own personal rain cloud, faithfully following, and precipitating its menace without mercy. Can we have summer please? It is July, in the northern hemisphere.

Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley were obligingly in tow, neither had ever been to Southall. Bus 427 took us the three stops from Southall Underground station to within spitting distance of Gifto’s Lahori Karahi (162-164 The Broadway, Southall UB1 1NN England). The rain was relentless, the venue suggested by Curryspondent Bill.

We were greeted at the entrance to the vast eatery, seats upstairs too. With lines of long tables, this was very much in the style of communal eating. Covid screens remained in parts, the only segregation. We were all in it together, families, weans, and the intrepid Curry hounds.

The business end of the menu offered a choice of Peshwari Lamb (£33.50) or Charsi Lamb (£33.50). On the assumption that nothing Afghani would match my recent Lams Karahi, it had to be Peshwari. Maggie’s momentary disappearance did hold up the Order. If she was willing to share the kilo of Peshwari Lamb then the Hector was going to add Karahi Kofta (£12.90). On her return, Maggie was persuaded to let Clive and Hector have the – feast – given her assumption that it would be – too Spicy. Maggie (& Marg) persist with this ritual, both can manage whatever comes, they may not particularly enjoy  it, but they can manage. The waiter led Maggie to Karahi Gosht (£12.90) – boneless. Just in case, Maggie mentioned – Yoghurt – to the waiter.

Spice Level was discussed after I mentioned – Asian-style, Desi and Apna.

You want it spicy! – remarked the waiter, duly noted.

With Keema Naan (£4.90) on the menu, this was a given, it’s the first thing Clive asks about when a menu is read to him. I reckoned Maggie and I could share a Butter Naan (£2.30). A jug of tap water completed the Order.

Plates etc. were brought to the table. Two ice-cold sauce bottles, Raita and something fiercer, accompanied. Both remained untouched, as did the large plate of Yoghurt (£2.50) which magically appeared.

From my vantage point I could see the main Chef work his magic at a huge karahi/wok. Whatever – Curry – he was working on was always topped up with a Masala from another karahi – The Big Pot. Given the size of the operation this must have been a necessity. This was Karahi Gosht on an industrial scale, remote from my usual Curry Cafes.

The abundant staff managed to assemble the Order more or less simultaneously. The round Butter Naan was served whole. It had big puffy blisters, this would be enjoyed, an excellent accompaniment, and no Maggie and Hector would not manage it all.

Topped with Sesame Seeds, the thick Keema Naan had been scored in four. The efficacy was bursting through the cuts – brown Mince, none of the pink paste nonsense. Clive would manage all but a scrap. That he can physically eat a Keema Naan alongside, then usually on the completion of his Curry, is a sight to behold. Such was the Keema Naan, I could see Clive sneaking back to Gifto’s for this alone.

Peshwari Lamb

I wasn’t expecting this.

The definite kilo of Karahi was topped with the customary Ginger Strips, sliced Bullet Chillies and a sprinkling of Coriander. The Masala was blended and so resembled nothing I associate with the Masala Mash that usually accompanies a Karahi. I shall stop short of – Shorva – but this was a – Soupy Karahi. Farewell to the pristine, white t-shirt.

Clive was ahead of me in declaring the Meat to be Tender. The Lamb fell off the bone with minimal effort, importantly, this Meat was a – giver – of Spice/Flavour. And, for two, there was lots of it, three helpings.

The Masala had a wonderfully rich Flavour, familiar, a blend of Spices I can never achieve, but – Mace – is now known. Will this dramatically alter Hector’s cooking? All Karahi recipes known to Hector include some Yoghurt added towards the end of cooking, today’s Masala was decidedly more – Creamy. Such was the lack of viscosity, I was tempted to note – Mainstream – but didn’t. Now it is written.

The Spice Level built slowly, the Bullet Chillies adding their charm. The Seasoning was commendable, but nobody was shouting – Seasoning – as was the case four days ago in Antwerpen. Yet, the Flavours were pronounced, a fine blend of Spices, both Clive and I were thoroughly enjoying the quantity and quality of what lay before us. Maggie had a Soupçon, brave. The karahi was scraped clean with the spoons, no more Bread could be faced to complete the job.

The denouement: Peshwari Lamb? Had this been served as a Lamb Desi Korma, I could have been in raptures.

Karahi Gosht boneless

With a Thick Masala, fibre rich in Meat pulp, this was more recognisable as – Karahi.

The darker brown suggested less Yoghurt. Quite a portion, I was impressed that Maggie took care of this with comparable ease (no Starter, she’s learning). The Butter Naan did beat us both. A forkful of Masala came my way. If anything this was more powerfully Flavoured, more Seasoned, more Karahi-like.

No Bones.

The verdicts of my fellow diners, Maggie:

I thought mine was going to be less spicy, same as yours. Yours melted in your mouth, mine I had to chew a bit.

No Bones.

Clive:

The Naan was simply the best Keema Naan ever. It slightly overshadowed the meal which was excellent. They must have been cooking the meat for a week.

Nice (?) place, service was good without being intrusive.

The Bill

£56.10    It took some time to find someone wishing to relieve me of the funds.

The Aftermath

Managers were visible sporadically throughout our visit. I had to give the Calling Card to a lesser chap, it was not passed up the chain before our departure, a pity, questions to be asked.

Menu

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Antwerpen – Afghan Darbar – A Day To Remember, and hopefully be repeated

September 2022, when Hector last had a day in Antwerpen, after a satisfying Lamb Desi Korma at Iman Hallal, an Afghan Restaurant came into view. With a full stomach, all the Hector could do was investigate, and what a revelation. Afghan Darbar (Sint-Gummarusstraat 35, 2060 Antwerpen Belgium) had photos on their menu board for Lamb Karahi, an authentic version, not the nonsense that is served up in Mainstream Curry Houses across the continent. A few photos were taken and the resolve was made: Hector shall return at the first opperchancity. There is no denial that today’s visit to Afghan Darbar was the focal point in all planning of this trip. Continue reading

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Brussel – Spoonful of India – Curry for the Cognoscenti

So why was Hector dining at Spoonful of India (Rue Sainte-Catherine 22, 1000 Brussel Belgium), when the easy choice was to return once more to CHILLI Grill? The menu, simples.

Whilst there are many Curry Houses around the centre of Brussel, research, so far, finds them all to be Mainstream in the extreme. Spoonful of India does not serve the ubiquitous Chicken Tikka Masala and Rogan Josh, they do have one of Hector’s favourite alternatives to Lahori/Punjabi fayre: Lamb Sukkha (€20.00). Not only that, the Bread  favoured most in these pages, is also available: Malabar Parota (€3.50).

Arriving at 13.50, having dodged the continuing heavy showers, Spoonful of India was empty. People had therefore taken refuge in the abundant nearby cafes, not thought – let’s go for Curry. For the keen Meteorologists, Belgien finds itself at the boundary of the super-hot air mass which is currently over central and southern Europe, and the not so hot maritime air coming from the Atlantic. The result? Precipitation! The weathermen simply predicted a week of showers here, and when they come, they mean it.

The charming young waitress greeted and let me choose a small table some way into the long, and correspondingly narrow, premises. Hector was not going to be window dressing today. The Order was relayed having checked that Rice was not inclusive. Was that a Spice Level warning I was being given?

I’ll put medium – said the waitress as she entered the details on her pad.

Medium with a – kick – would have been ideal.

A half litre bottle of Sparkling Water (€3.50) completed the Order.

I was subsequently presented with a basket containing two quarters of a Poppadom, and some crispy nibbles. Rather than have the green ones stare at me, these were eaten first. There was a bit of Spice here and certainly Seasoning. Not bad at all.

I had time to take in my surroundings. The plain white walls are adorned with photos of the Homeland, simple décor, effective. The kitchen was some way behind me. I was amused when a Chef came out to study the menu. I hoped he wasn’t checking up on what exactly a Lamb Sukkha is.

At 14.05 there was a – Ding! – in the kitchen, not quite a World Record then. The Curry sat on the same plate as the Malabar Parota. I removed the Curry so as to see the Parota in all its glory. Served whole, as thankfully they always are, this was easily the largest Parota served to Hector yet. It was not the customary – white – but was close to the real deal. Soft and flaky, with lovely burnt bits, and the telltale spiral, this was a worthy Paratha. I would manage all, and not have to eke it out.

Lamb Sukkha

Dry – this was not, so by definition, one has to challenge the efficacy. The Masala was certainly thick, and the pulped Meat added to this. I could not count the pieces of Lamb at the start as I was not going to needlessly decant to the plate. Plenty of Meat, this was going to be a filling meal.

Hot food, both the Curry and Parota, a good start. The anticipated – smokiness – was not as strong as hoped for, but was certainly there. Where was the whole, dried Red Chilli which I have come to accept as the norm? Instead, Curry Leaves, who knows how long these had been associated with the Masala?

The distinctive Flavour of a South Indian Curry came across. If there was Coconut, it was not interfering. I have to compare this Curry to the Glasgow Curry Houses which serve this Curry: Bombaywalla – Indian Street Kitchen, and once upon a time Madhras Dosa when it was Banana Leaf. Bombaywalla once challenged the Hector with the level of Seasoning, but this brings out the full impact of the Spices. Had the level of Seasoning been more at Spoonful of India, then the Flavours could have been more intense.

Most of the Lamb was super-soft, one could have sucked as an alternative to chewing. The combination of Sukkha and Parota is tried and tested, they work brilliantly together. As an alternative to the oft reviewed Karahi Gosht  this is certainly worth a try. And when in Brussel, Spoonful of India is where to get it.

The Bill

€24.50 (£21.22) This was €2.50 less than anticipated. There is a special deal for having this combination (€21.50).

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was given to the young waitress. She immediately said she would call her boss. And so Hector was introduced to the owner, another charming lady who originates from Bangladesh. (correction: see comment from Team – Spoonful of India – below) Having been involved in catering for some years she established Spoonful of India. Her model was not to serve Mainstream Dishes, but those which are true to their region. I was then given an explanation as to the wall art, and the famous faces shown. And so we have the photos. Those who know, will know.

Menu

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Brussel – CHILLI Grill – Authentic Punjabi/Lahori Cuisine

Authentic Punjabi/Lahori cuisine in Brussel? It has to be Chilli Grill (Rue Antoine Dansaert 172, 1000 Brussel Belgium). Having arrived yesterday, usually a beeline would have been made to Chilli Grill, alas, closed on Sundays. Monday, it’s hard to find anything open, but this is a pan-European phenomenon. Hector will admit to contacting – The Brothers Alvi – last week to establish that 13.30 was the earliest time to arrive today.

A 13.45 rendezvous was suggested. Tram 81 still ain’t running, as we first discovered yesterday having to haul the bags up the hill to St. Gilles. 14.00 it was, Dr. Stan and Hector arrived at 14.05, Mags was still, well who knows where?

It was the brother of Shahzad who greeted. Mutton (Beef) Karahi (€10.95) for two with Rice (€4.00) was confirmed. As we took our seat, so Shahzad, Mein Host, appeared from the kitchen.

It’s good to be here again – was my greeting. All was well.

Dr. Stan arranged Fanta (€2.00), 330ml cans. This trip, Fanta has become cheaper each time we have ordered this Belgian version which, for unknown reasons, seems superior to that which is served outwith this nation. Belgien, –  cheap – sorry.

You like yours Spicy!(?) – asked the brother, addressing Dr. Stan.

The Hector had just been put in his place, Dr. Stan is the more frequent visitor to Chilli Grill as he passes through Brussel en route to/from Deutschland, whilst the rest of us fly.

It was then established that the Hector could handle – Spicy – also.

We could see/hear Shahzad working his magic at the hob just inside the kitchen. Our food was on the table when Mags arrived. The Order was tripled, well sort of.

The Rice was approaching another fine example of a Euro-portion. Six more grains and the Hector might have been beaten. Dr. Stan and Hector would clear their plates, Mags doesn’t do so well with Rice.

*

*

Mutton (Beef) Karahi

Yes, the karahi looks small. Contained therein, were ten large pieces of Meat, such that the Masala was minimal. A Dry Karahi. QED.

Ah the irony, by the time the Meat and Masala had been arranged over the Basmati, such was the rate of absorption, more Masala would have been welcomed. One day Hector will have the courage to ask:

Please, Sir? Can I have some more?

More Masala, is this actually being written?

A small plate of what came close to being classified as – foliage – added a bit of Diversity, the Chillies would certainly add more heat. Everything combined, there was no issue with the Spice Level, we had a – kick. The Seasoning was well below that which the Hector seeks. As a consequence, it took some time for the Flavours from the Masala to reveal themselves. That the Rice had soaked up the Masala didn’t help here. Subtle, but a sense of Cloves and Pepperiness was noted.

I halved each piece of Beef with my fork, Dr. Stan was in full – Yvonne mode – and was using both knife and fork throughout his meal. Firm but tender, easy chewing, the Beef was giving off a remarkable amount of Flavour. The columnar, internal structure, took me back to when I used to challenge that what lay before was in fact Lamb. Today, Beef, I couldn’t really tell the difference.

Dr. Stan and Hector cleared their plates, not a grain of Rice was left, an achievement in itself.

It’s always good – remarked Dr. Stan, who did not define – always – and the frequency of his visits here – tender meat, spicy, dry masala.

That is what we seek.

Mags, who only remembered she had previously been here after she had taken her seat:

Excellent, beef cooked perfectly, very tender. Sauce, what I asked for, medium hot. Definitely will be back, again.

We sat for a while after the meal, letting the food digest, finishing the Fanta, and chatting with Shahzad.  His brother dealt with the payment.

The Bill

€50.80 (£43.84) Prices at Chilli Grill have not increased this year. Our best value meal of this trip.

The Aftermath

Do you live in Brussel? – Shahzad asked Dr. Stan.

Talk about turning the screw? I suppose every time I go abroad with the Good Doctor, he gets to visit Brussel twice. Clearly, he has become a regular at Chilli Grill.

I asked Shahzad about the well-being of his business. I shall remind the Reader that pre-Covid, he had designs on setting up in Scotland. I was surprised to hear that it is not the increase in the price for ingredients that are the issue, but the increase in the cost of gas and electricity. With rent for apartments also going sky high, he doesn’t know how people can afford them. The bottom line, people are staying at home, not going out – to dine – or otherwise.

What am I making for Dr. Stan’s breakfast tomorrow? Some may find out.

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Brugge – Jaipur Indian Tandoori – Flexibilty, always a good sign

Another day in Brugge, another Curry. Actually, most of the day was spent in Gent where we discovered why accommodation there was at a premium – Gentse Feesten. This had attracted thousands who were being entertained at a main stage and many lesser ones scattered throughout the town centre. Beware.

Before all that, there was brunch once again with Dr. Stan and Mags. Jaipur Indian Tandoori (Blankenbergse Steenweg 29, 8000 Brugge) was the venue chosen by Hector today. Located outwith the city centre, in the north of Brugge, this necessitated a short bus ride (Bus 40). We arrived at 12.30, the door was wide open, no customers as yet. Two more couples arrived moments after ourselves, one Spanish, that would be all for this session.

A young lady greeted, offered a table and brought the menus. It was a more mature lady who would take the Order. This looked very much like a family business.

Mags’ choice today would be simple: Lamb Vindaloo (€17.95), close to her usual Aloo Gosht. This would be Hector’s fallback if the Lamb Karahi (€18.96) contained the dreaded – green mush. The three given descriptions for Karahi in Chicken, Lamb and Prawns, did not mention Peppers, there was room for optimism.

As the menu did not make it clear if Rice was included, various Naans were discussed. Some new names today: Look Naan (€3.95) was not for Hector, it’s Garlic. Fenegriek Naan (€3.95), now we’re talking – Methi, man. When it was established that Rice was inclusive, the Order became a single plain Naan (€2.95). Mags informed us she doesn’t like Methi.

The menu listed some fairly hefty prices for Rice, there is no need to order more.

I showed the photo of assorted Capsicum on the page – The Curry-Heute Campaign – to the lady and asked if I would see these in the Karahi. She answered in the affirmative, then suggested that they could be withheld. Dr. Stan chose likewise, was there a voice in his head telling him – no Capsicum?

When will Restaurateurs learn that this – Ballast – is not part of a Karahi?

Spice Levels had to be agreed. Medium-plus for Dr. Stan and myself was straightforward. Mags would have her Vindaloo toned down to – medium.

Fanta (€2.50), times three, today was almost a bargain compared to yesterday at In-Dish. A litre bottle of Sparkling Water (€7.50) completed the Order.

A young chap brought the Drinks. English was established as the Lingua Franca, however, he slipped into Spanish with ease to accommodate the adjacent couple who ordered Chicken Tikka Masala and Korma. Ah well, if this is what the masses want. They were duly given their Creamy, Soupy Curry, mild as … no doubt.

At 13.00, the waiter brought Complimentary Poppadoms and Dips, it has been a while. He told us that Poppadoms are made from Rice and fried, then talked us through the Dips: Tamarind, Mint, Raita. There was a warning that the Onions were – Spicy. When Mags nearly had a coughing fit, he came back to check all was well.

Your Onions are Spicy! – I reassured him.

During our wait for the Mains, the open door meant meant that the local fly population had decided to visit, annoying at times. Today’s background music featured the customary Bollywood screechy female vocals, no Indian-cowboy music. But hang on, that brass sounds familiar: Spaghetti Western Indian music.

At a respectable 13.15, hot plates were brought to the table. The waiter brought two pots of Basmati assuring us that a third was available if required. For once, the abundant Euro-portion of Rice was being well managed. We just about finished the second pot.

The Naan was too thin for Hector, It had risen, the piece I selected seemed to be the top half of a big blister. Oh for a risen, puffy, tear-shaped, Tandoori Naan, served whole, of course.

Lamb Karahi

The Masala looked suitably Thick and was not excessive. Halved Cherry Tomatoes had been added towards the end. Red slivers of skin, possibly Capsicum were noticed on decanting. If so, not an issue, I did convince myself that it was Tomato skin. The small cut Meat was into double figures. Finely cut Onions had been cooked into the blended Masala. No Big Blobs of Onion today, yay! No Whole Spices. Once arranged on the Rice, this did not appear to be a huge meal.

Dr. Stan was ahead of me in noting that the Spice was not registering. A slow burner. The Seasoning was well below the Hector idyll.

I suspect the Spiced Onions may have been responsible for the slow start. Once the palate adjusted to the Karahi, the Spice certainly came through. Right on the button – was noted. The Meat was Tender and was giving of Flavour, impressive in a Mainstream Restaurant. The Meat and Masala combined to give a familiar Earthy Flavour. On seeing the Soupy Curry at the adjacent table, there was an air of satisfaction in knowing that we had secured a suitably Dry Curry. Bread alone would have been the better accompaniment. Karahi with Rice does seem like an incongruity. Overall, well short of a Lahori Karahi, but in remembering which country I’m in, this was an impressive Curry.

Dr. Stan offered a few words after his customary series of – Mmmmms:

I was slow getting the hit, the spice came in the end. Plenty of meat, I enjoyed it; an OK Curry, I’d go back.

Indeed, he did appear to have significantly more Meat than was in my pot.

Lamb Vindaloo

The Masala looked so inviting, a true Curry, with the Oil gleaming on the periphery. I would happily have had this. On seeing the contents of the pot arranged on the Rice, I spotted two big wedges of Potato. These appeared to have absorbed the Masala. I was hoping to be invited to sample, not today. The lady had her – Aloo Gosht.

In time, Mags was defeated by the quantity of Rice on her plate.

Plenty lamb and potato, sauce made to preference, though next time I would have it hotter. Giving your choice (of Spice Level) makes it better.

The Bill

€72.80 (£63.30)    Note: €15.00 for Soft Drinks.

The Aftermath

The waiter brought a Garam Masala and Werther’s Originals, to calm the palate. Mags helped herself, Dr. Stan and Hector preferred to let the Flavour of the Karahi linger as long as possible.

The Calling Card was issued, now our waiter realised why all the photos were being taken. It was confirmed that Jaipur is a family affair, his sister who had greeted us earlier plus parents. Initially Mother was the cook, Father has taken responsibility. A pity there was not a further opperchancity to talk, the remaining customers had to be looked after also.

Jaipur Indian Tandoori, hardly a trek from the city centre, but well worth it. Our walk to the bus stop was interrupted, the canal bridge was raised, just the one flashy boat.  One day, Clydebank will have a bridge like this.

Menu

 

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Brugge – In-Dish – Times, are they a changing?

Curry in Brugge is certainly under-reported in these pages. In the first months of Curry-Heute, Hector watched Taj Mahal come into being, it is going strong as observed yesterday in passing. The Curry reviewed in 2011 was on a day Taj Mahal was actually closed, the Hector refusing to accept – no – for an answer.

Accommodation in Brugge is usually overpriced, this year it proved to be more competitive than Gent, so here we are. The number of Curry Houses in Brugge has multiplied in the time of Curry-Heute, but one venue in particular  has been on the – must visit – list for some years.

Any serious Bier drinker who has ever been to Brugge, has walked down Kemelstraat. Brugge’s, and possibly Belgium’s, most famous Bier House – ‘t Brugs Beertje – lies halfway down this side street. In-Dish (Kemelstraat 9, Brügge 8000 Belgien) is next door, therefore Hector has been aware of its existence for some time. With no breakfast on offer at the Ibis Budget, Dr. Stan and Mags saw Curry as being the logical start to the day.

We assembled at 13.00, Dr. Stan being already in situ and tucking in to a 200ml bottle of the distinctive Belgian Fanta (€3.00). Despite the outrageous lack of value, three more bottles were ordered plus a 500ml bottle of Sparkling Water (€5.00).

Dr. Stan failed to spot that Rice was included in the price of Curry and ordered a Garlic Naan (€4.00). We decided that this would be shared. The grid layout of the Curry section simplified matters. We would all have Lamb, of course. Dr. Stan has admitted that he hears a voice in his head when choosing from a Curry menu – don’t have Chicken. I wonder whose voice that could be?

Curry Home Style (€18.50) was hopefully – Desi-style. If so, then the Hector could be in raptures. Chilli Grill (Brussel) is the only Curry House in all of Belgium known to serve such cuisine. I dropped – Desi – into the Order, it did not appear to register with Mein Host. The Spice Level was then verified.

It is spicy – I was assured.

Dr. Stan opted for Lamb Saag whilst Mags took an even bigger risk – Lamb Karai. That we had each ordered a different Curry was good for this Blog. I had visions of a Creamy mass of Spinach being presented to Dr. Stan and a stir-fry of Capsicum and Big Blobs of Onion to Mags. Hopefully In-Dish was better than this, but this is Belgium.

Whilst we waited, we were entertained (?) by a stream of Bollywood hits. The music then took a strange turn, the introduction to one composition set the scene, the Great Plains: Indian cowboy music.

The three Curry pots arrived, accompanied by a big pot of Basmati for sharing. There was enough Rice for three sensible portions, and no wastage. The Garlic Naan was presented in bits, strike one. Thin, peely, wally, and hardly risen, I was almost writing it off. There were signs of puffiness and one piece had distinctly less Garlic, Hector’s bit, obviously.

*

Curry Home Style

I arranged the nine pieces of meat, mostly large, on top of the Rice. The sauce looked like an authentic pureed Masala. This was way better than Belgium Curry of thirteen years ago when some horror stories were served in Gent.

Bay Leaves, and both Black and Green and Cardamom were encountered. Whole Spice, always a good sign.

This was indeed a Spicy Curry, there was an impressive – kick – which was not letting go. The Seasoning was below the Hector idyll, but acceptable.

*

Most of the Lamb was found to be firm but not too chewy. There was a Tangy Flavour from the Masala, but not the depth of flavour from a Desi Curry, but this was definitely decent. The Whole Spices certainly added to the efficacy.

Every grain of Rice on my plate was devoured, a well judged quantity of Curry and Rice.

A decent Curry therefore, but after eat-Doori (Köln) three days ago, only something catastrophic would not have been an improvement

Lamb Saag

In Deutschland, as is written above, Saag/Palak is often served as a Creamy mass of Herbs pretending to be a Masala. This actually looked like a genuine Palak: a Masala with Herbs. When Dr. Stan picked out a five centimetre piece of Cinnamon Bark, here was the proof that we had the real deal. There was an early – Mmmmm – from the good doctor.

I enjoyed it, it was a good Curry, a spicy Curry. A bit short on the spinach, but plenty of meat. A good Methi flavour.

There was Methi? And not a Spinach overdose? This ticks the boxes.

Lamb Karai

OK, not a stir-fry, there was enough Masala to define this as a Curry. In what way was was this a Karahi? The Masala looked to be the same as served in the Home Style Curry.

Mags said she didn’t mind the presence of Capsicum, big bits too, and the anticipated Big Blobs of Onion. Neither of these should be present in a true Karahi, however, in Mainstream Curry Houses, this is what they get away with. The Curry-Heute Campaign shall continue – no Ballast!

As a Curry, Mags enjoyed her meal, but she knows what it could have been:

A lot of meat in the Curry. it could have been more tender. A well spiced masala to give a bit of heat. Went well with the boiled rice and Garlic Naan. I would go back.

Mein Host came to check on our progress, I gestured to my empty plate, he laughed.

Who needs words?

A lady came to clear the table, I asked if she was the Chef?

He’s the Chef.

Now we know.

The Curry today was better than most experienced in Belgium, not a difficult thing to achieve, but maybe it is such is the level.

There’s hope for the Belgian Mainstream? Times, are they a changing?

The Bill

€76.85 (£66.52) Nothing is cheap in Belgium.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was given to Mein Host, the Chef. I showed him the page for Chilli Grill, my favourite Belgian Curry House. I was trying to get across – Desi – once more. That we had all enjoyed our meals was relayed. Given the familiar locus of In-Dish, we may all return.

Mein Host is from Delhi, cue the opperchancity to show places visited. He did of course recognise Gulati Restaurant.

Menu

 

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