At the end of 2019, Dr. Stan and Hector visited Kebabish Grill (323–325 Victoria Road, Glasgow, G42 7SA). Impressed by the Methi Gosht and Namkeen Gosht, this Blog reports that we both felt that Kebabish Grill was worthy of further visits, as the local Asian community have been assuring the Hector for years. Then there was Lockdown.
Last month, Curryspondent Archie added a comment to Curry-Heute stating that he had particularly enjoyed the Namkeen Gosht at Kebabish Grill. Hector was long overdue a return, today’s visit would only be the fourth review in Curry-Heute.
Arriving just on 14.10, the restaurant was empty, apart from Vijay who greeted and led me to a window table. Both the three course Lunch Menu (£11.95) and the Main Menu were provided. The Lunch Menu was perused, an extra £1.95 for – Lamb – then.
The Hector already knew why he was here – Namkeen Gosht (£14.95). A Plain Nan (£2.50) was a possible accompaniment, I asked for a Coriander Nan, not a problem. A 500ml bottle of Sparkling Water (£2.50) completed the Order.
The juxtaposition of pukka glass and plastic bottle amused. Still, I was having my preferred beverage, not always available in the local Curry Cafes.
Curry Cafes, Kebabish Grill is very much a restaurant. With the retirement of Danny Singh at New Gandhi, a rival purveyor of Punjabi Cuisine, this leaves Anarkali, a Mainstream Curry outlet, as their only proper – restaurant – competition in this part of Govanhill /Queens Park.
The food arrived in a little over ten minutes. I had been prepared for a much longer wait, maybe the alarm bells were already ringing. How did Chef turn out a Namkeen in such a short time?
The Coriander Nan (£3.50) was actually a Plain Nan with Coriander sprinkled on top. One assumed that Chef would have rolled in this wonderful Herb and cooked it thus in the Tandoor, or on the Tawa, not so. At least the Naan, served whole, was light, fluffy and ticked Hector’s other boxes. Anyway, that was the case for a while. Two visits back at Kebabish Grill, I had to send my Naan back having been served – cold – on the underside, leading to rapid cooling throughout.
Namkeen Gosht
In terms of appearance, this was a classic Afghan Karahi, suitably pale, i.e. nothing – red – here. A whole Bullet Chilli and whole cloves of Garlic were mixed in the Thick Masala. Tomato-based, one believes, this looked the job. Having been given a warmish dinner plate, I decided to decant from the long dish. Had the Namkeen been presented in a karahi, there it would have remained.
The Meat count was into double figures, large pieces too, so the price once again felt justified. One long bone sat alone on the plate. When Archie was here last month, he reported the waiter drawing his attention to the fact that this Curry is served on-the-bone. Where were my bones? Again, on my last visit the debris pile is evident. I challenge that this was actually Lamb on-the-bone.
Alarm! The first mouthful of Masala and Naan took me aback. This was not right, and not pleasant. The menu at Kebabish Grill quotes – black pepper and green chilli – as the key ingredients. In fact, there should be a crucial third – Salt
Namkeen translates as – Salt – and/or – Salty Butter. Where was the Seasoning?
The Spice Level was never going to be a challenge. A solitary, well cooked Chilli, none added towards the end of cooking. From where was the – kick – meant to come?
Peppery – is what truly defines the overall Flavour of a Namkeen Curry. To put it in very simple terms: today, Pepper was marked – absent.
How had Chef produced this Namkeen in such a short time? The Meat may give a clue. The Boneless Lamb was suitably Tender, well cooked but was giving nothing back in terms of Salt or Pepper. How long had this Meat and Masala been in each others company before serving? Not very long is an obvious answer, however, Hector has another theory.
My last home-cooked attempt at Namkeen was truly wonderful at the conclusion of cooking, claims the Hector. Four hours later, a twenty kilometre drive, a reheat, and it had turned to, well, I was not a Happy Hector. Is it possible that today I had been served fresh Lamb with yesterday’s Masala?
That I was not enjoying today’s Namkeen should now be established. Things then took a turn for the worst. Tomato aside, there was an overall Flavour I was not happy with. Soapy – came to mind, and excessively – buttery. No, this Curry did not not taste of actual – soap – but why, since that moment to the time of writing, am I left with – soapy – as the best adjective I can find to describe the moment?
As I ate on, there was the sense of the Seasoning growing, there was also a warmth of Spice. Something in there was right. However, the food was cold, unappetising, by definition. I had had enough, why prolong the displeasure?
A second waiter had appeared, Shafiq.
Finished? – he asked, on seeing the abandoned Namkeen and half eaten Naan.
Yes, I don’t want it.
The table was cleared, the necessary asked for.
As is the Curry-Heute practice, a Calling Card is only issued on Visit #1 as was the case at Kebabish Grill back in 2012. I could not leave without introducing myself, and give forewarning of what is written above.
The Bill
£20.95
The Aftermath
Having placed a Calling Card on top of the printout, Shafiq was quick to spot it.
I spelled out the detail, the ways in which this Curry was lacking. I even mentioned – soapy. Cold food – I had to highlight also. Shafiq was clearly apologetic. On showing the photo of my last Namkeen Gosht here in 2019, he spotted the difference in colour, and I believe was checking that that – pinkish – Curry had in fact been a Namkeen. (It may have been the lighting in 2019.)
That one I enjoyed.
You will put in your blog?
Yes.
Menu extracts
Chapatti John observed a few weeks back that we were well overdue a return visit to 
A table was booked for this evening at 17.00, just in case. As we entered, people were already sat at window tables. I confirmed the opening time with the waiter, now 16.30 apparently. If 
Four Lamb Chops, possibly still the best value in this city. I didn’t ask for them to be cremated, I took my chances. Only one of the Chops had a big bone and was therefore recognisable. I know not what precise cut the remaining three were. 
What a platter, John loves this. Chicken Liver is what he identified as sat before him. Thoroughly enjoyed, full of Vitamin A, but for Hector, hideous. 
Poor Dr. Stan, this looked sadly lacking in comparison to the above. Two tiny Kebap, but this is what he likes. At least this should not have ruined his appetite. 
This Curry never disappoints. If one knows the Methi-rich killer Bradford Curry taste, then this is the one to order. With the Meat cut so small, in the Bradford tradition, it means that one can have Bread, Meat and Masala, simultaneously. This is also a filling way to eat. In time, the Bread has to be abandoned, mustn’t leave any Curry. 
The first mouthful gave the Bradford Blast, superb. The Chilli on the Naan no doubt upped the overall Spice Level, the Seasoning was sound. The Masala showed a hint of creaminess, presumably the late addition of Yoghurt. What a range of Flavours from the gorgeous, Herb-rich Masala, why am I not having this every week? 
I must try this Curry. With even more Herbs than the Roshan Lal, it must be a delight. Today’s version had visibly less Oil than the Roshan Lal, however, the base Masala looked the same. A classic Bradford – Dry – Curry. 
The Bill
On Saturday, Hector arrived at 
I placed the Order, today a Naan (£1.50) instead of the customary Chapatti (£1.00), was this a moment of intuition? On taking my favourite spot in the empty dining area, I was asked – Spicy?
A Modest Salad and Raita soon arrived, the jug of Tap Water soon after. The Water had no taste, yay, the Raita did. The Salad was a momentary distraction until the main event.
The – killer aroma – defined the moment. With sliced Green Chillies, Ginger Strips and Coriander atop the thickest of Masalas seen here in a while, all was set. The copious Meat was on-the-bone as all Lamb is served at 
The Naan and Masala combination was a step above my usual Chapatti accompaniment. What a Masala, and only a trace of Oil collecting at the base of the karahi. Given what follows below, this may be a crucial marking of the expected standard of Karahi Gosht served at
The quantity of Karahi was manageable, only three quarters of the Naan was consumed. The bone count = one, unusual.
Meet the new boss, Ali, I have seen him here previously. Ali recognised me both on Saturday and today, he has acknowledged seeing me and my dining companions, but only here? Ali must be associated with other venues.
Hector now has a dilemma. Is this still
Adnan recognised me as I approached the counter to order, no sign of Kaka today. I had already decided, well actually months ago, that my next Curry at 
Helping oneself to a drink from the fridge is expected, I took something that was clearly – gassy – but turned out to be a sweet Turkish Lemonade, not Sparkling Water. 
On seeing the huge pieces of Meat with pointy bones protruding, the heart sank – Chicken? Thankfully, these were not Chicken Thighs but simply huge pieces of Lamb on-the-bone. The bones I didn’t recognise, possibly from the cheaper cuts which more Pukka venues wouldn’t use? There was loads of Meat and not so many bones as it turned out, this was easily the – half kilo. 
Wow! – instant gratification. Nowhere else in 
Wow! – yes, this deserved a second exclamation. The Flavour was astonishing, whilst the Spice Level would never reach overwhelming, it did grow steadily as I ate. Sliced Green Chillies had been cooked in. The Seasoning, well this Curry could not have attained this level of satisfaction without this being well pitched. The blended Masala simply oozed pleasure, for once I accepted that more would have been even better. Soupy Curry – is not what the Hector seeks, however, today, to manage the Rice, more Masala required. Bread next time, unless there is someone to share a more complex Rice a la 
Spicy Desi Korma, a Curry which has nothing in common with that served in Mainstream Curry Houses, no Coconut here, not for beginners. This Lamm Korma was just sublime, and totally justified the horrible price of tomorrow’s flight home. 
Day #5 of this trip and Curry #3, anything to avoid Deutsche Essen. The Hector will admit to having had Wiener Schnitzel, but surely that’s Austrian? 
The Fisch Madras impressed on 
Fisch Madras (€13.90) comes with inclusive Rice and a Naan. The Euro norm is the choice of either, serving both may be regarded as a bonus, however, given what is served at Ganesha, I wonder which mortals can manage both?
A Complimentary Poppadom and three Dips were presented. The Poppadom was well toasted and contained Cumin Seeds which always ups the impact of the experience. Of the three Dips, the Oily one was seriously – Scharf, achtung!
The Rice portion was almost obscene, this was enough Basmati for three. Quality Rice, but quite simply a waste of food. I took what I thought I might manage, well if it was 15.00, it wasn’t.
The presentation could not be faulted. Abundant Curry sat atop the tea light stand. I decanted seven large pieces of Fish, each would be cut into three or more pieces. Fresh Mushrooms were once again present, a welcome bonus. An Interesting Vegetable always adds Diversity. The blended, Creamy Masala was as experienced previously. With a decent viscosity, the Masala was far from being – Soupy. There was enough Masala to match the quantity of Fish, perhaps, this was only element of the meal which was not to excess. 
The Fish was particularly soft, spongy even. On risking being wide of the mark, possibly Monkfish (tails). I will admit to preferring a more firm Fish. The Flavour from the Fish took a while to emerge, however, the Spice Level struck immediately. This Fish was giving back a serious – kick. 
The Manager, Naveen, came to make the customary check. 
A Hauptbahnhof at noon rendezvous for Curry-Heute, Lord Clive and Lady Maggie had coffee in hand, and bags of food. Strange. Curry at 12.30, even stranger, in fact the reality is worse. Five days ago the body clock was set at – GMT. Yesterday, Hector had to begin adjusting to – GMT+2. Hector was in effect, having Curry for Frühstuck. 
Indian Mango
Whilst we waited, Maggie observed that the cutlery clock has gone from the wall. Back in 
A Coriander Garnish, the pot was brimming with Meat in the Thickest of Masalas. That there was a visible Masala was the telltale sign that the almost – stir fry – era of Chettinad at 
The Lamb was well saturated in Spice, this was certainly not Mainstream Curry. 
I would end up leaving a couple of mouthfuls of Rice, the contents of my plate had swollen, some of Maggie’s Fish found its way in my direction. 
The same oblong plate 
Later, much later, I was walking along what is left of Schillerstrasse. As well as Cafe Schiller, the famous Sports’ Bar, 
Lord Clive and Lady Maggie (
Whilst waiting, I studied the menu, no inflation in 
The oblong plate was different, as were the contents. The quantity impressed, I have previously commented upon the paucity of the portion. I decanted five large pieces of Fish, as in seriously large. I was left with a Thick Masala, interesting.
In the years – Before Curry-Heute – the Fisch Chettinadu – was approaching – Soupy – as it is served across the planet. Having discussed this with Mr. Jolly, in time the classic, almost – stir-fry – version evolved. New Chef, was the immediate conclusion. However, as I ate, one of the two long standing Chefs passed by and smiled in recognition. Is this the new version or, did he not know who he was cooking for? Tomorrow’s Lamm Chettinad may reveal all. 
The blast of Flavour from the Fish headed off any sign of disappointment. Thick Fish, integrity maintained, white, perhaps if I look back through a well known and reliable Curry Blog, I’d be able to offer a name for the species? 
The Masala was a revelation. That there was one came as surprise. Was this possibly the Fish Curry (€13.00)? The Texture revealed the pedigree, one does not stumble across this. Having flaked the Fish, the relative ratios of – Fish-Masala-Rice – worked well. Again, if only the Dish had been hotter on arrival. 
The Bill
Monday lunch, it was too soon to return to 
On the bus across the Clyde, I watched Sky News on the trusty Oppo. Scotland’s new First Minister was being announced, what a time they took to do so, prolonging the moment. Without further ado… an oft quoted line, why have any – ado?
I arrived at 
Friend – talked me through the Dishes on display. Aloo Gosh (£7.50) with Rice (£2.50) was duly ordered. Again, I quote the Takeaway prices, though Rice is included with the Curry in that format. The wait was not long, a quick reheat. 
I was pleased that Pilao had been provided, with Coriander mixed through. The portion was huge, enough to share. Salad and Raita were again presented, one pays for these, not Complimentary, as is the usually the case in the Glasgow Curry Cafes. The Salad was chilled, fresh, and the Raita added even more pleasure. Tasty Raita, keep it coming. 
Simply adding Potato to Curry does not make Aloo Gosht. The authentic version, as featured here, has Shorva. It was at 
I decanted the Lamb, served – on-the-bone – to the plate of Pilau. Three pieces of Potato, the Meat count was into double figures, a substantial portion, more than that served at the western end of Allison Street. I kept half of the Shorva back for the end game, otherwise the Rice may have absorbed all the liquid too soon. 
The Meat varied from Tender to a bit chewy, a big Lamb Flavour burst onto the palate. There was Spice, there was Seasoning, there was Flavour. On addressing the Shorva-soaked Rice, – Mmmmm – lovely. Both the Meat and the Potatoes had absorbed the Flavours from the Shorva, hence they both had a lot to give back. One simply does not experience this in the – Curry – served in the Mainstream Restaurants. 
In December, after
Hector was here for the Fish Karahi (£7.95) which Marg enjoyed in December. Then Hector had but a Soupçon, the attraction on 
I advised Graeme that the Naan (£2.50) had not impressed last time, Rice could be the better option. So that he could taste his Curry without distraction, Graeme chose Plain Rice (£2.50). The alternative was Spicy pulao (£2.95), my choice. Ideally, a Vegetable Rice would have been chosen, however, the list of Accompaniments is limited. 
The Chapatti was served whole, made from Wholemeal Flour and did the job. The Rice portions were substantial, Graeme would manage most and chose to use his dinner plate. Hector looked at the Spicy Rice, let’s add the Curry on top. 
I knew what to expect and was not disappointed. Nowhere else in Scotland, i.e. reviewed in Curry-Heute, is serving Fish Karahi of this quality and at this price. 
The Fish was flaked, some pieces were still quite large. A Dry Fish Curry, why is this so difficult to source? There was enough Masala, just enough to consider this to be a Curry, however, it was Karahi, a different species and this was as fine an example as one can find. The Spice Level was not OTT, sliced Green Chillies had been stirred in. The Seasoning was noted as – fine – but after Saturday’s experience at 
Again, a Dry Curry, Keema does not need but a sense of Masala. There was a threat of Coriander, and no trace of peripheral Oil. No Soupçon for Hector whose palate had been taken in a different direction, however this appeared to be an excellent Keema. Marg:
If further proof that Rehmat’s serve authentic, and not – Soupy Curry – was required, then surely this photo says it all. The minimal Masala again appeared to be Tomato-based, suitably Thick, a joy to behold. The large pieces of Lamb protruding proved to be ample. I was keen to establish if the Okra was rubbery, get it wrong and this otherwise Interesting Vegetable can be destroyed. Graeme reported all was well – This is very good – was an early comment, then finally:
The Bill
Hector was here for – The Works – a half kilo of Lamb Karahi (£16.00) from the – Desi Asian Style – section of the menu. As these pages record, when done properly, this is the King of Curry. Although not listed on the menu, a Coriander Naan would accompany, plus a Mango Rubicon (£1.00). (The prices quoted are from the Takeaway Menu.) I note the – Desi – section of the menu is not on the electronic display boards. Unlike
Before settling down to watch the end of The Famous beating Motherwell on the trusty Oppo, I asked permission to take photos of the premises. 
Just after 14.20, the feast began to assemble on the table. Twenty odd minutes to transform pre-cooked Lamb into a Karahi. The Naan was wonderful. Large, with thick edges, sporadic holes towards thinner centre, plenty of burnt blisters, and served – whole! Why ruin a Naan by cutting it up? Behold the splendour.
A Modest Salad and Raita were provided, these would provide a minor distraction during the main event. Zahir eventually would bring more cutlery, I would have managed with the spoon provided for the Karahi. 
Fortunately, pictures can paint a thousand words which is better for both Hector and the reader. This was exactly what was hoped for, expected even. The sheer quantity was indulgence, defeat staring me in the face from the outset. It had to be, a portion (£9.00) would not have made the same impact. The customary Ginger Strips and fresh Coriander were complemented by sliced Bullet Chillies. The latter would boost the moderate Spice Level as and when required.
Seasoning! It was there, and at the level I refer to as – brave. It has to be thus else the true Flavours never appear. This Karahi was nothing short of spectacular. One cannot help but make comparisons, the warmth of Flavour that 
There had to be a photo of Zahir in his new place of work. I enquired about Rashid’s (
