Today, Chicken Tikka Masala (£17.00) at Shish Mahal (60-68 Park Rd, Glasgow G4 9JF). Check the date: August 1st, not April 1st. Next, the Hector will be buying tickets for a musical, or even the ongoing Netball at the Commonwealth Games.
Sixty-plus years of Curry eating in Glasgow’s Indian Restaurants, dating back to Green Gates at the top of Gibson Street, close to where Shish Mahal was formerly located, and never a Chicken Tikka Masala. If Curry-Heute is going to maintain a comprehensive coverage of Glasgow Curry, then this famous creation, first presented in a moment of pique, so the story goes, has to be included.
Chicken, a treat back in the 1960s. Curry made from leftover Chicken felt like an abomination, even back then.
Any Chicken Curry is out of character for Hector, see Monday’s visit to The Village for the technicalities. However, last week, after the battle with the bones on the far side of Woodlands Road, at Tharas Takeaway, the Hector looked west and thought, why not? As the self-imposed restriction of the intake of Lamb continues, I felt it was time to return to Shish Mahal, Glasgow’s oldest, surviving Indian Restaurant. First reviewed in 2010 (Lamb Khadey Masala Ka Salan), then again in 2018 (Bhoona Gosht), eight year gaps appears to be the pattern. 2032 next?
It was 15.20 when I reached Shish Mahal. The seating area to the left was empty, all diners had been ushered to the right, four tables occupied. In 2010, the four of us were – shoehorned – in. Since 2018, clearly more space has been allocated mid-room.
Lunch menu or a la carte? – asked the young waitress.
The Lunch menu at this time on a Saturday, not bad at all. Mother and I enjoyed this back in 2018. Today, a la carte.
On any other day, Khas Desi would have been considered. Pan-fried Lamb – what’s that about. No Lamb on-the-bone, Shish Mahal remains very much in the Mainstream.
The waiter took the Order. Nan Bread Plain (£4.50) would accompany.
No Rice?
I’m sure the majority would have Rice with Chicken Tikka Masala, the Hector was trying to retain some sort of composure. Let’s have a – Dipping Fest.
A glass of Tap Water was provided. No bleach-taste north of the river. Nobody wants to tell me what’s going on in the Southside.
A guilty secret, I had time to consider my history with Chicken Tikka Masala. Decades ago, Marks & Spencer produced a portion for two, in effect, a worthy portion for one. Light in colour, Creamy, moderately Spiced, a decent late night snack after a night in t’pub. Then, M&S changed it to a portion for one, with accompanying Basmati. Tried once, never again, the end of an era.
The food did not arrive too soon.
Look at this Naan!
The Naan ticked every box in Curry-Heute: served Whole, tear shaped with the panhandle, risen, blistered, fluffy, with a lean towards a doughy sufficiency – a proper Tandoori Naan. With the buttery sheen and the Sesame Seed toppings, even better. A new standard has been set.
Why can so many venues not produce this? A Tawa-cooked Naan does not compare.
Enough to share, I would impress myself by managing more than half.
Chicken Tikka Masala
The handi-like bowl was brimming. Normally, with no Rice, I would eat directly from a karahi. And so that was how I had my first dip into the Masala.
Not the Tomato-pink I was expecting, but certainly – Creamy, and there was a – kick. Calm, just a – wee kick!
Not overtly Sweet, Seasoning pitched at a low level, possibly to accommodate the Cream, not bad at all. Marg would love this, but she too has learned that a Lamb Curry is in a different league.
Just how much Meat was in the bowl? The only way to establish this was to tilt the contents on to the plate. Plenty!
Then I spotted it, the Offending Ballast! The Capsicum, clearly added late, had not had time to contaminate the Masala. Why was it there at all? Partition required.
I began the process of isolating the Capsicum at the top of the plate. In doing so I counted up to sixteen pieces of Chicken. So much for venues which serve the standard eight.
There were as many pieces of Green Pepper, unnecessary Ballast.
Chicken Tikka is usually tasty in its own right. Initially the classic Tikka Flavour seemed to be subdued, smothered by the Creamy Masala. Who would pour a Sauce over Chicken Tikka anyway?
The hovering waiter asked the customary question.
I would never add Capsicum to a Curry. That aside, no problem.
With my back to the serving area, I know not what happened in the intervening minutes. The waitress re-appeared, the customary question repeated.
Ballast, there’s no need for this.
She offered to change it.
I have plenty of Meat, no need.
I shall never know what the plan was to rectify. All a matter of taste, Button Mushrooms would have made a fine alternative to the – Dreaded Green Mush.
On spotting that the fingers were being wiped on the pukka cloth napkin, the Head Waiter brought some paper ones. The customary question, for the third time. An even more comprehensive answer from Hector.
He outlined that Capsicum is part of the recipe. I bet it wasn’t the first time Chicken Tikka Masala was served at Shish Mahal, unless Chef really had it in for that infamous customer. It’s presence is not listed on the menu.
Nobody had asked if I had any allergies. Not that I do, and Capsicum is eaten oft in Hector’s House, never in Curry.
Again, he offered to fix matters. I assured him that I was thoroughly impressed by the quality of the Naan, and had plenty of Meat. I had more food on the table than I would manage.
I ate on, the appetite certainly being sated, Chicken Tikka Masala, at source.
No Whole Spice, this was as remote from Hector’s preferred Desi Curry as one could find. One has to accept this creation for what it was. Loved by the many, tasty but not demanding, suited to those who fear true Spice and Seasoning. If at least one reader subsequently tries Yadgar or The Village on the Southside, where efficacious Desi Curry is to be found, then Curry-Heute has fulfilled its purpose.
Rather than pay at the table, I headed to the bar area. Whilst this may have been visit #3, the Calling Card was about to be presented.
The Bill
£21.50
The Aftermath
The chap who I have described as – head waiter – could well have been a whole lot more. Having got the Capsicum hiatus out of the way, this led to a lengthy chat. The Calling Card was passed on to Maestro Nasim, brother of the founder, Mr. Ali, who is no longer with us.
Having admitted that Chicken Curry, and fine dining in restaurants, are not my thing, my preference for a Goshat Karahi in the Southside Curry Cafes was exemplified. Punjabi venues of course, Yadgar, and The Village were highlighted as I showed my list of Glasgow’s Top Rated.
My appreciation of Fish Karahi, and why Bradford Curry Houses do it best, was mentioned as a matter of balance.
Rehmat’s in Aberdeen is the only place I have found in Scotland which comes close to serving Fish Karahi as I desire it.
Nasim revealed that Zahar, Mein Host at Rehmat’s, is a relative.
Back to Korma, and it was not the Hector who raised the fact that a Korma in North India / Pakistan, bears little resemblance to what is served across the UK. Desi Qorma, probably Hector’s favourite Curry, is best found in Berlin at Punjabi Zaiqa, The Village is where I first encountered it. I feel one calling.
Talking matters Curry, in such distinguished company, made Hector’s day. Little did I know what would follow.
A few hours later, at Hector’s local, a chap approached.
Are you the esteemed Hector of Curry-Heute?
Esteemed? Dr. Stan almost had apoplexy. Not again, this first time this happened in his presence was as we disembarked from a train in Berlin. Once upon a time, everywhere we went, it was Dr. Stan who was recognised, the baton appears to have been passed.
Meet Curryspondent Stewart, who expressed his appreciation of these humble pages. Humble? This does a lot for Hector’s ego. The rest of The Company were also gobsmacked, the first time they have witnessed this en masse.
You’ll never believe what Curry I had today!
The Hector was indulged for the second time today.
My regards to Marg – was Stewart’s parting comment. Respect.
Lastly, to Curryspondent Doug, I hope you recover, fully, and soon.