Manchester – Kabana – Quail Meat again

Half past one, a good time to visit Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England), before this, one might have to queue to get in. It’s Wednesday, Quail Day at Kabana (Cheetham Hill), but yesterday, Rizwan invited us to share the – Staff Curry – a first time experience here in the Northern Quarter. Three of the seven dining at Kabana today had signed up for Batair / Bateera (£7.00).

Howard, briefly known as Mr. Kabana (see below) and Josh were today’s fellow Quailers. Both were sitting with Clive and Maggie when Hector arrived at 13.31. The adjacent table was partly occupied, that wouldn’t suffice. The table at the door became free, Steve arrived, we grabbed it and assembled the Quailers. Then the larger table mid room became free, Lalaa summoned us, we complied. Legroom. Mags would subsequently join Clive and Maggie.

Howard was having a Chapatti (£1.00), I suggested that Josh and I share a Nan (£1.00).

*

It’s not often I have Bread at Kabana, the Naan here is something else. Round, soft, light, fluffy, it feels more like a Flat Bread than a traditional Naan. Wonderful Bread.

Batair / Bateera

The three pots of – foliage – were brought to the table. The ritual smothering got underway.

Two wee birds in a Thick Masala. Footery – has been the apposite adjective each time Quail has appeared in these pages. Gamey – way better than Chicken, it would have to be else the Hector would be showing no interest whatsoever. Maintaining some dignity, Howard tackled his Curry with a knife and fork, Josh and Hector got down and dirty.

The Spice Level impressed, it was comforting to note that this was how the staff would have it. Not crazy, sensible. Having eaten one, the second bird felt like a matter of course. Does anyone ever have – three? Two Quails, definitely a lot less Meat than having a Karahi Gosht. Sucky Bones, every mouthful seemed to involve a bit of sucking. The wishbones were remarked upon, why?

A passing member of staff asked if we required anything else. I gave him the – bigger stomach – response.

To what extent the Hot Spice was coming from the Masala or was already embedded in the Quail could not be established. The Masala itself was excellent, different from that served with the Karahi, seemingly more full of Flavour from that served at Brother Mani’s at Kabana (Cheetham Hill), but just as – runny. This, I had to tell Rizwan as he came to verify our enjoyment. What a sook. My fellow Quailers were suitably verbose, Josh:

Certainly moreish. Exciting because that’s the first time I’ve had Quail. I agree with your assessment, if I had a bigger stomach …

Howard likes to play the game:

My first ever Quail, a very elegant, refined and delicate dish which can’t be eaten with any degree of refinement, elegance or subtlety. The Quail and sauce took flight and proved yet another wonderful eating experience at Kabana. It seems impossible, but Kabana gets better and better.

Howard has yet to have Hector’s – Fish Creation.

The Bill

£23.00 For the three Quail and two Breads.

The Aftermath

Second in command after Hector – was how Rizwan described Howard as he paid. Howard’s reign as – Mr. Kabana – is over.

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Manchester – Kabana – Rendezvous

The Company are in Manchester, even Craig and Yvonne are having Brunch Curry these days – Chicken Masala – (£6.50) at Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England). They claim they were first in today.

And for those who actually understand Curry:

Hector – Lamb Karahi – (£6.50) with Fried Rice (£2.00), Steve with Chapatti (£1.00) both – on-the-bone, and Marg – Keema Peas (£6.50) with Chapatti. We three had just arrived from from Preston, at 14.05 we found four in situ.

Maggie, on her first ever Kabana visit, and Mags had the same as Steve, Clive, the same as Marg. Dr. Stan, who is renowned for moving in mysterious ways, maximised Diversity with the classic Manchester – Rice and Three (£8.50). It looks like having left Crawley, Clive and Maggie have lost their peerage.

I’ll get you the Sucky Bones – said Rizwan, Mein Host, as he scooped the Karahi Gosht from a basin. Basin Curry, a first.

Lamb Karahi on-the-bone / naked

Dressed

Having established who was here and who had been already, Howard’s name was mentioned, more than once. There was no Curry-Heute for Howard aka Mr. Kabana, however, here is his review:

First time in Kabana for a while. The dish was so so light it was as if I hadn’t eaten at all.

The Bill

£16.00   For Hector and Marg.

The Aftermath

Last Friday, Rizwan had offered to cook whatever the Hector desired. Getting beyond the Lamb Karahi on-the-bone to Hector’s – Fish Creation – has taken years, what else is there to have?

Quail!

Rizwan is cooking Batair for the – Staff Curry – tomorrow. Staff Curry, we never knew about this. Three have signed up for – Quail.

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Bradford – The Kashmir Restaurant – Storm Isha no more, please

Before leaving Bradford, there had to be another Bradford Curry. The Kashmir Restaurant (27 Morley St, Bradford BD7 1AG England) reliably opens first. With luggage in hand, we descended the stairs at 11.45. There was no Jan today, instead his able colleague greeted us:

Are you going on holiday?

We’re in the middle of one.

Having got soaked yesterday in Hebden Bridge and Halifax, the rainy part of Storm Isha appears to have blown over, yet it’s still windy.

The rest of The Company are coming south today, updates on their progress were arriving.

Normally, the Hector would have Fish Karahi (£11.90) when Currying this early. As Saturday’s Curry at – JDC Grill & Chill – proved to be quite a departure from the standard Bradford Curry, I was still in the mood for the full – Methi Blast!

Meat Karahi (£11.90) was Hector’s order today, with accompanying Chapattis (three). Marg was having Samosa (£1.00), two Meat. A cheap date. She also considered a Mango Lassi (£2.25) but changed her mind. We should have time for coffee before the train.

A jug of tap water and complimentary Salad and Raita were presented. No Jan, no Poppadoms today.

We were the first diners of the day at Kashmir. The next arrival ordered Curry & Chips, I still don’t get this. The Samosas arrived promptly.

Meat Samosa

Two large, well stuffed Samosas were accompanied by another portion of Salad.

Lovely and fresh – was Marg’s opening remark.

We had a lot of Onions, Marg concentrated on the redder Onion slices. The interior of the Samosas looked grey as in a Pie or Bridie.

Full of Potato, Meat and Peas, these Samosas went well with the mint Raita and carefully chosen Red Onion, Tomato and Cucumber Salad. A lovely lunch.

And such great value.

The three inclusive Chapattis remain standard in many a Bradford Curry House. The traditional, thin ones, these I prefer. One and a half proved to be the limit.

*

*

*

*

Meat Karahi

The karahi may appear modest in size, it was deep, and contained a mass of Curry. The Meat was cut larger than one normally finds in Bradford. The menu described this Curry as – dry – indeed it was. This was a perfect example of Minimal Masala.

The first blast was a Meaty one, not Herbs. The Spice Level would have been in the comfort zone for the majority, the Seasoning apparent, but far from intrusive.

The first minutes were spent wondering why I was not tasting what I expected in a Bradford Curry. The super-soft pieces of Meat were alternating with those requiring a bit of chewing. Hector’s masticating was being tested. Why didn’t I order Fish or Kofta? Like Saturday’s Curry at JDC, this proved to be a Curry of two halves.

Some of the Onion surplus found its way into the Karahi.

The thick Masala featured quite a bit of Pulped Meat, the bottom of the pot? Here was the mother-lode of Flavour, the Methi, the Seasoning here was remarkably more intense also. A Bradford Curry.

This Karahi was taking the Hector an age to digest. Marg pointed out how patient she was being. Not much appreciation then for her two quid lunch?

Eventually, finally, it was time to declare – the end. Hector now had a palate saturated in Methi and Cumin, success.

The Bill

£13.90 That’s all.

The Aftermath

Our chap had disappeared, no farewells.

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Bradford (Frizinghall) – JDC Grill & Chill – Husband Wife In UK

Bradford, still the UK Curry Capital, though I believe Glasgow’s Curry can be as good and offers more diversity in styles.  I like to be here when I can. In such a brief visit, the temptation to revisit favourite venues is strong, though the Hector is always on the lookout for new places.

Having become used to heading out to Frizinghall, such a new/different venue stood out. On our arrival at the desired locus, the business had changed hands. Desi Chaska was no more, instead JDC Grill & Chill (308 Keighley Rd., Frizinghall, Bradford BD9 4EY, England) was in situ. Appearing to be yet another Grill House, it was Marg who spotted the photos of Curry posted on the window. The Hector was already considering yet another visit to nearby Sultans Restaurant (204-206 Keighley Rd., Frizinghall, Bradford BD9 4JZ England) which originally brought us out to Frizinghall.

With only two tables inside, accommodating around ten in total, the staff were occupying one, a meeting? The smaller window table became ours. A young girl brought the large laminated menu. Bradford Curry Houses are dominated by males, this in itself was quite unusual.

It was the desire to have Lamb on-the-bone which brought the Hector to this location,. Fortunately, Lamb Curry On The Bone was available in medium (£10.50) and large (£16.99) portions. With Marg eschewing Curry-Heute, – medium – would do.

Marg had Lamb Karahi yesterday at Kabana (Manchester), Hector had the Fish.

At this point I’ll mention the Drinks on offer: cans (£1.00) and 1.5l bottles (£2.50). So when Marg declared a Fish Wrap – solo (£3.50) – or meal (£4.99) – the latter included a drink. Assuming Salad/Chips with the – meal, good value. We would ask.

Our waitress came to take the Order. Firstly, Chapatti (£0.70) was not inclusive as is often the Bradford way. I ordered two with the knowledge that I never manage three.

Marg made it clear that she didn’t want Chips but Salad instead. She already had her eyes on the Green Salad (£2.99).

Spice Level was then raised. Marg asked for – medium – Hector’s – medium-plus – drew a blank. Spicy, not crazy – appeared to be better understood.

We settled down for the wait. A chap did sit at the adjacent table and had Burger and Chips. Takeaway customers also passed through. We secured paper cups for our drinks. What on earth was Hector doing with Cola?

In time, I spotted in the open kitchen that it was a lady cooking the Curry whilst a chap prepared the Fish Wrap. A Lady Chef in Bradford? The Rickmeister, aka – The Man From Bradford – introduced us to Sarina’s Curry Kitchen out in Queensbury back in 2015, the first female run Bradford Curry House. This became a must visit venue, alas Covid took its toll on that operation. We miss Sarina/Dawn.

*

It took a good thirty minutes for the food to appear, a positive sign. This would not be Curry from The Big Pot.  As the Chapattis were cooked so I saw the outcome. These were not the classic thin Bradford Chapattis, but the huge Wholemeal style which the Hector is less happy with. Already it was accepted, one would have been enough. Should I add – ban Wholemeal Flour – to The Curry-Heute Campaign?

A splendid, nay glorious, mulit-layered Salad, far from just being – Green – was presented. Nibbles.

With Marg’s Wrap on the table, two Handis were then presented.

Why do we have two portions of Curry? – had to be asked.

The chap assured us it was – one Curry, one mild and one spicy.

Too much Curry, never a bad thing, Marg might help out, however, with her substantial Wrap and the Salad, the Hector was left with a challenge.

Fish Wrap

Pieces of a white Fish were mixed through Salad and Mayonnaise. Marg made a point of telling me that she didn’t have to add any Mayonnaise to the plate of Salad, such was the quantity in the Wrap.

Full of Fried Fish, with Salad and sauces, I added most of the Side Salad and enjoyed a full meal with Salad, Fish and Pitta wrap.

A delightful change, it was the Salad that made it.

Lamb Curry On The Bone

Two Handis, both had a threat of Coriander and Ginger Strips atop, one had sliced Bullet Chillies. Differentiation.

What to do, eat one then the other, or decant? Decant.

All of the – mild – was decanted, plus half of the – Spicy.

With more than a plateful of Curry, I studied the Masala from the – mild. With Tomato Seeds to the fore, and a Texture the Hector could only dream about in his own home-cooking, this was clearly a Masala to appreciate.

The Meat was in large pieces, six came from the first Handi, Lamb Chops and other cuts. Quality Lamb.

*

One knows a Bradford Curry when the blast of Methi attacks the palate, it wasn’t happening here. Instead, a mellow sense of home-cooking, Earthy. Expectations had to be adjusted, this was what it was.

The Tender Lamb was gnawed from the bones, fun. The Masala scooped in the Chapatti was so rewarding. This was something different, but what was it?

On the far side of the plate was the – other Curry. The difference was remarkable, approaching a – Wow! – moment. Extra heat of course but so much more Flavour. After Manchester’s Cloves, here was a sense of Cinnamon. An aromatic Curry, closer to Sarina’s Curry Kitchen than the Bradford norm. Was it any good? Damn right it was! Marg was dipping pieces of Bread in the Masala, she too savoured the moment.

Serendipity, a word that crops up in these pages. What were the chances of discovering this new source of authentic Desi Cuisine in Bradford in a passing visit?

Our Chef, Hostess, approached the table as the Hector was nearing the endgame. The customary question was asked. And so the Calling Card was presented and introductions made. Khola, from Lahore, confirmed the presence of Lamb Chops and other cuts in the mix. Cinnamon? Mixed Spice – was her concession in the reply.

The conversation developed, JDC is her first business. JDC? Khola mentioned – caste – I had to admit I had little experience of this.

At the time of writing, research reveals that JDC is an NGO whose model is to ensure that all the people in Karachi are fed. Honourable, and takes us back to our own experience in India.

That this Blog would be posted triggered a mention of YouTube. Curry-Heute has limited contributions in that medium, JDC – does. Under the moniker – Husband Wife In UK – Hector and Marg found themselves being interviewed on camera, live, unscripted, unrehearsed. A first.

The Bill

£24.50   One suspects rounding down.

The Aftermath

Having met – Wife – I had to meet – Husband. And so there were photos of Iffy, Khola and Hector. We should all recognise each other next time.

Next time? Further examination of the menu revealed – JDC Lamb Curry Black Paper (£18.00 / £11.00) – surely a version of the wonderful – Namkeen – which has been celebrated in these pages. Next time.

Khola had not heard of – Sarina’s – hopefully this post shall rectify that. Bradford again has a source of genuine Desi Cuisine, hopefully The Rickmeister and Sarina/Dawn will be here soon to introduce themselves.

There’s more. A nearby tea-shop, across from Sultan’s, had been spotted en route. This was investigated, my lady was impressed. Next time in Bradford, I can guarantee Marg will be asking:

When are we going to Frizinghall?

2024 Menu

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Manchester – Kabana – IQ (@ The Met – Bury) 2024

The first gig of every year is traditionally IQ at The Met, Bury, 2024 is no exception. Hector, with Marg in tow, was here once again for the Friday night – seated – show. Let the kids in their fifties stand down the front we, the retired, struggle to stand for three hours.

A Prog Rock gig in Bury means a night in Manchester. A night in Manchester gives the opperchancity to visit Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England). Not only that, it’s Putty Day! January 19, 2024, note the day.

At the end of November, Rizwan, Mein Host at Kabana, could not deliver Fish for Hector, so no – special creation.

Is there Fish? – was my greeting to Rizwan. The last Fried Fish (£5.50) in the shop was secured. For Marg, Lamb Karahi (off the bone) (£6.50) and a Chapatti (£1.00). She passed on the Keema (£6.50) despite Rizwan taking the lid off the kettle to show his wares.

We took a table at the rear, Kabana was remarkably busy at 16.00, but empty as we departed. Rizwan brought the food to the table, the foliage – too!  Marg would limit herself to Coriander.

Lamb Karahi (off the bone)

In all the years of Currying at Kabana, the Hector has never had this. On-the-bone – remains the Hector standard, with Rice also. Karahi in a bowl – highlights the relative – soapiness – of the Masala at Kabana. Karahi? I give Rizwan the benefit of any doubt. The Karahi here is spectacular, well the on-the-bone version has been verified oft.

I watched Marg cut her Meat with the side of her fork, a la Hector. A whole Clove was produced and set aside. Clove, the Spice which stands out in a Manchester Curry. Marg managed all but a scrap of her Chapatti, she blamed the Egg sandwich at Carlisle for taking the edge off her appetite.

Large pieces of Lamb, which when broken up, provided me with many tasty mouthfuls of Meat and Chapatti. The rich sauce gave the dish plenty of flavour.

I shall insist that the on-the-bone version would have had even more flavour. The difference in consistency is proven below.

Fish-Masala-Rice

What a plateful! Rizwan was almost apologising for not having a larger plate. He would no doubt have filled that too. Look at the size of the Fish (Coley), and compare this with a standard Fish Curry. It’s all in the marinade, and the skin had been left on to absorb the Spices, before baking/frying.

The foliage was applied, extra Flavour, extra bite.

If the Fish was huge, so was the Rice portion, then there was the Salad atop. Beneath the Fish lay a film of Masala from the Karahi. What more could a Hector need?

When Rizwan brought Marg’s Chapatti I took the opperchancity to order the finishing touch – a bowl of Masala from the Karahi. This arrived momentarily, complete with Sucky Bones. Here was proof, if required, that the Masala was markedly different from that across the table. The Coley was smothered, half of the Masala retained for later.

The Spice from the Fish was spot on, the Seasoning too. The girth of the Fish was magnificent, it cut easily but was otherwise intent on retaining its integrity. Why is this not in our supermarkets? A Fish Curry, of sorts, with both Fishiness and Seasoning. Apparently some Fish live in the sea, a feature that is not always apparent when having a Fish Curry.

The Rice and Masala provided the full Flavours of the Lamb Karahi, Hector coming here today, the first in a series of visits in the coming days, and ordering Fish first. Almost like going to the Hofbräuhaus (München) and ordering Dunkles instead of Helles.

Sucky Bones, this was the best of both Worlds, the Meatiness was complementing all described above. Surf & Turf, with a difference, it works! Rizwan suggested he could add Fish Curry to his menu, could it surpass this – creation?

The Salad wasn’t ignored, a variety of Textures is always appreciated. Fish, Masala, Salad, Rice, extra Masala, it was all happening here.

Next week I shall no doubt return to my normal Order here. It will be interesting to see if any of The Company order – Hector’s Creation in Fish (£9.00).

*

The Bill

£16.50   For two dinners.

The Aftermath

Any special requests – asked Rizwan as we were taking our leave. I pointed to – Lamb Karahi – on the board.

It’s always on.

But this is special, and why so many of us cannot get past it.

There was a short walk to Cafe Beermoth for Verdant’s Putty. The Hector had just under two hours to enjoy this rare treat.

IQ at The Met (Bury) 2024

And so to Bury, by tram. The same seats as last year awaited, great comfort, but too far away to secure quality photos. With seating available in 2022, 2023 and this evening, Marg was happy to accompany once again. The band took the stage @20.10.

I haven’t posted coverage of IQ since 2020, back in the days of solo sojourns.

Resistance (2019), featuring a – virus – on its cover, remains IQ‘s latest album. Little did we know at the time of the 2020 gig what was to follow. Free from the shackles of promoting a new album, tonight’s set proved to be a trip down memory lane, but strangely, nothing from the first four albums. Pete Nichols (vocals) on stage and nothing from The Wake (1988), possibly a first.

IQ began with an ending, the final twenty minutes of the 110 minute epic Subterranea (1997) – The Narrow Margin. A grand conclusion, goodnight.

Such a complex piece of music, a finale, in the same way that side four of – The Lamb Lies Down on Broadway – (Genesis, 1974) was not. Twenty three years later, IQ surpassed themselves. After a two album, nay eight year hiatus, Pete Nicholls rejoined IQ to create what I still think is their finest album – Ever (1993). The near fifteen minute – Further Away – as I recall, proved so demanding to perform live, it never made the live album to accompany the reunion tour – Forever Live. Somehow, in 1994, I managed to see both Pendragon and IQ at The Marquee Club within weeks of each other. In 2020, Further Away concluded the main set, so no chance tonight?

The three screen projections have been the IQ model for decades. When Bela Lugosi appears, it is time for – From The Outside In (Road of Bones, 2013), one of the outstanding albums of this century. I do not hold all IQ albums in such high regard.

Fading Senses (Ever), more uptempo, a break from the dirge that a first listener could find the entire show … how I pity anyone going to see IQ without prior knowledge of their music. No wee tunes, rumpty-tumpty here.

It was around this point that I realised that all songs were going to be introduced, finally, an opperchancity to make my own set-list, as it happened. Back to Subterranea and Failsafe, an oft performed part of – cd one – a bonus.

Stay Down (Resistance) came next, and no reference to what happened after this album was released. Maybe we all know. Having enjoyed some thirty minutes of Subterranea already, the eponymous title track followed on.

Time for something new. Plinth, the working title featured Tim Esau (Bass) and Mike Holmes (Guitar) find themselves embracing mounted twelve string guitars to play the first minutes of this – work in progress. Marg declared afterwards that she particularly enjoyed this. I was trying to find – the theme. (Not – the wee tune!)

Back to – Ever – and Leap of Faith came next. If we were not to hear – Further Away – this evening, then this was most satisfactory. Ever, not a note wasted, what an album.

Closer (Frequency, 2009) had me fooled initially. I recognised the album. This was the album where Mark Westworth (Grey Lady Down) proved his worth having replaced founding member Martin Orford, aka – Widge. This was also John Jowitt’s last album on Bass. I developed a theory this evening that when Tim Esau changed to fretless, this was for the tracks which Mr. Jowitt (Ever, Subterranea, …) had first recorded. No disrespect to Tim, his bass pedal playing vibrated the floorboards. I believe it was he who responsible for the heavenly chorus which permeated many a song. Also, our high viewpoint permitted a clear view of Neil Durrant’s, the current incumbent, keyboard playing. Look no hands, conclusion, it must have been Mike Holmes, via – midi – who was playing some of the synth breaks on the guitar.

Back to Tim, I study Bass players. Rarely flamboyant, always reliable, when Cookie’s drumming plays seemingly impossible rhythms, he is there, solid as a rock.

Back in the years of standing at The Met, I used to find Paul Cook’s drumming too high in the mix, a distraction. That this was our second IQ gig sitting immediately in front of the mixing desk, all was well. And we were seated!

The title track from Road of Bones next. One of the most sinister intros ever, another impossible percussion time to count, then one of the most recognisable keyboard motifs IQ have ever recorded.  One may like to think that this was Neil Durrant’s contribution to his first IQ album.

The Seventh House (2000), again the title track, and an album I never got into. Too technical, flashy, time changes for the sake of it? All that I could describe as wrong with some Prog bands, a la Dream Theatre, Thieves Kitchen, I find here. It has its moments, for reasons unknown, Pete appeared to be singing in a key above his comfort zone. There was a fluff, too early, too high? Humour.

I have written before that Pete Nicholls is not Peter Gabriel. Even he said this evening that he should get off stage so that the band can play. If somebody has to sing, let it be him. Look how – poppy – IQ were for the two albums without.

Introduce the band members, exit stage right, return, encore.

The first time I heard Ten Million Demons (Road of Bones) played live, I recognised it, but not as an IQ song. A groove, simples, a piss take? Actually, I believe I have heard that which was the influence, dismissed from memory.

Finally, the final title track Frequency (Frequency), so no Ryker Skies which for the Hector remains the standout song on this album. No complaints, tonight we were treated to such a broad cross-section, from – Ever – onwards.

From the stage this evening, there was many a reference to anniversaries. Tomorrow, all of Dark Matter (2004), standing room only. I’m sure when I saw Subterranea unleashed on consecutive nights back in 1997, the audience was some thirty years younger.

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Glasgow – Halal Kebab House – Bring Something Simple

Halal Kebab House (164 Albert Drive, Glasgow, G41 2N6), today was Hector’s fifth visit.  This is usually when a Curry House is added to Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses, and locally to – Glasgow’s Top Rated. Does it deserve to be?

On Saturday, en route to Ambala, I spotted the new facade at Halal Kebab House. The possibility of a change of ownership and/or internal redecoration was worthy of investigation. Only once has this venue truly impressed and that was when Chef Habib presented out of the blue. That was back in 2018.

Entering at 14.00, Chef & Mein Host, Sajid was hovering in the area between kitchen and front of house. A young chap was serving. The minimalist seating remain, however, the left wall has been jazzed up, quite imposing.

Curry does not appear on the menu boards at Halal Kebab House, and still there is no printed menu. The young chap told me this was due, but I have been told that on most visits.

I was talked through the Curry on display. Having dismissed the Daal and Chicken Dishes, that left the customary Lamb Curry (Bhuna?). I was offered Small (£9.50) or Large (£11.00). More Curry is surely always better than less?

Spicy? – was mentioned.

Above Medium – as ever, was the compromise.

Today, Rice would accompany.

A paper table setting was presented along with a decent Salad and Raita. The black plastic fork reminded me that this is the land of the Curry Cafe, yet there is only one on Albert Drive itself.

Curry? Hector was the only person having Curry in this hour. Chips & Cheese was flying out the door accompanied by Donner. The spit was on, earlier than one would expect.

The Rice presumably had been – dinged. Served in a Takeaway container it didn’t look much, how deceiving. I put enough to cover the bottom of the bowl and around half of the Curry. Later maybe a few more grains were taken. So much waste.

*

Lamb Curry

The blended Masala was the key feature, no Whole Spices were unearthed as had been the case here. The Meat count was easily into double figures, a decent portion.

Hot food, always worth a mention. In the Mainstream, one’s Order can sit for who knows how long before it is brought to the table. The dominant Flavour was recognised and named instantly – Garlic! After the recent Garlic overdose at Sara – Donner Kebab – there was no mistaking this today. Fortunately, today’s dose was well within acceptable parameters.

The Spice Level was well pitched, far from – silly. There was no issue with the Seasoning, and with no stray Capsicum this time, all was set: let’s enjoy a simple, straightforward Curry.

The Super-soft Tender Meat was beautifully cooked, minimal chewing. The taste of the Lamb itself still managed to protrude through the array of Spices. Having sat for some time in the Masala, this was the Desi Curry the Hector sought.

Having abandoned the Salad when the Curry arrived I was determined not to let it all go to waste. The Onion and Tomato were stirred in with the remaining Meat and Masala. A different Texture was therefore created, much more rewarding.

I looked at the Rice in the container, and the quantity still in the bowl, no more required. Otherwise, all was devoured. A Curry, nothing to excite in particular, but satisfaction attained.

The Bill

£14.50

The Aftermath

Sajid was on the phone as I finished, I’ve written that before. Determined to have a chat, I showed the young chap the photo of Sajid and Habib from 2018. Sajid may have remembered me at this point. I asked after Aquib who appeared to have a share in the business, he has gone. That Sajid has been here since the start of Halal Kebab House in 1985 was confirmed, it is his place.

In time I asked my primary question. Habib has retired and is unlikely to come out even part time, Sajid has tried. In recent times we have now lost two great Chefs in the Southside.

As for upgrading the classification of Halal Kebab House in Curry-Heute, maybe not. Chips & Cheese, how much Curry is actually sold here?

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Glasgow – Ambala Pakistani Cuisine – A Different Tactic

Whenever one has outstanding Desi Curry, the question – where next? – arises. Sometimes the Hector resorts to the Mainstream knowing that after a peak, the only way is down. Today, a different tactic.

Zaheer at Ambala Pakistani Cuisine (11 Forth St., Glasgow, Scotland, G41 2SP) advertises oft on a certain social medium. Sometimes the staff are even aware of what is being promoted. It was he who planted the notion for Chappali Kebab (£5.99), and if it was a large as claimed, this could be in effect, a main course.

Arriving in the Southside at 14.00, the sun was low and blindingly bright. The Curry Cafes around Albert Drive are overdue return visits. One chap at Ambala acknowledged me as I entered, the only surviving member, second from left, in the 2016 staff photo?

A young chap brought the menu and a couple of Dips. The menu remains A4 folded, not the A3 sheet of former years. The prices have not changed since my last visit. When was this – the young chap asked. Had he been sent to find out, or had he too recognised me?

Ten months – was the answer.

My Order appeared to cause consternation. Chappali Kebab accompanied by Aloo Gobi (£6.99).

Gosht?

No meat.

To be fair, the Gobi Gosht (£11.99) is outstanding here.

No Naan? There may be a larger version of the Chappali which includes Bread. Having taken the Order, he was back to inform me that they had Pilau Rice worthy of consideration.  Not today.

My mental picture of my Order was such that if the Chapli was as big as claimed, only a Side of Vegetables would be managed thereafter.

When my bottle of tap water was provided, so the size of the Dips was upgraded. The menu shows a 70p charge for sauces.

Twenty minutes – I was advised. Not a problem.

From the second window booth, I took in my surroundings. Nothing has changed. No dignitaries today. The Chapli arrived first.

Chappali Kebab

The Chapli was huge, well fired, a deep red, also the thickest Chapli ever encountered. I had to assume – Lamb – as this was nothing like the more common Chicken Chapli one encounters. The Garnish caught the eye also. The threat of Coriander on top was complemented by the array of Pickles and otherwise minimal shrubbery. The Big Black Olive was a joy, the Cherry Tomato was kept to the very end. Sliced Green Chillies, Pickled Onions, mini Gherkins, and a threatening whole Red Chilli, were great distractions.

There was an instant big Meaty and Spicy hit. Additionally, one could sense the array of Spices that had been mixed in. There was a great depth of Flavour here, the Seasoning pronounced.

The Dips quickly came into play adding extra moisture, not that this Kebap really required it. The Pickles provided distraction, eating all this Spicy Mince alone could have become monotonous otherwise.

Another chap came to check on my progress. He confirmed this was a Lamb Chapli.

The Aloo Gobi arrived after a few more minutes.

See, Meat and Veg – I assured the young waiter. I’m not sure he was convinced about the efficacy of this combination.

Aloo Gobi

Topped with Ginger Strips and sliced Green Chillies, this was a full portion of Vegetable Curry. Already I realised I would struggle. The Masala was pale suggesting something Creamy may have been added. I struggled to find the Potato such was the imbalance. There was possibly three times as much Cauliflower as Potato.

Piping hot food, always appreciated. The taste of the Cauliflower itself came across strongly before anything from the Masala. The Seasoning here was way down, the Chapli would compensate. The Cauliflower was soft, further cooking would have been too much. The Potato had not been given time to absorb the Spices. One concludes that this Aloo Gobi had been freshly cooked, not necessarily always a good thing for this creation.

I was eating from both plates until enough of the Chapli had been taken care of. The Aloo Gobi was then decanted. So much would be left.

There was a familiar Flavour emerging on the palate. The suspected Creaminess gave way to Cheesy. Cauliflower Cheese is in effect what was registering on the palate. I became less convinced that my combination was working.

The second chap was back again.

Is there Cheese in this? – I had to ask.

No, ghee.

It may be possible that this is what was confusing the Hector taste-buds. Each subsequent mouthful became more of a struggle.

Eat yer Meat! – was very much in mind. The final four pieces brought Tapas to mind. This colossal Chapli was the antithesis of Tapas. Chapli, more Pickle and finally, the Cherry Tomato, time to stop.

Too much food left, the Hector had misjudged on two levels today.

The Bill

£12.98    No charge for the Big Dips.

The Aftermath

It was the original chap who dealt with payment. Having enquired about my level of enjoyment, I did relay that the Aloo Gobi was not to my taste. I was experimenting.

That was the biggest Burger I’ve ever eaten – was well received.

Cheese with a Burger, that’ll never catch on, simply not – Kosher!

Maybe today the Hector was – cheesed off, what Cheese?

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Glasgow – Yadgar – Five Have A Wonderful Time

Towards the end of 2023, Jim suggested that the Hector organise another feast at Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP) for himself and a couple of his Paisley buddies. To this Hector added Howard, Dr. Stan and a dilemma. At the point of ordering it was obvious two kilos of Goshat Karahi (£30.00) between six would not suffice, three would be excessive. This was left in the hands of Shkoor, Mein Host.

Arriving a few minutes late for the 14.30 rendezvous, the cry of – you’re late – came from the table, and even from behind the counter. A rarity. Hector’s train departed on time from Glasgow Central then promptly stopped for some minutes at the end of the platform. Did it therefore depart on time?

One of the Paisley three was a last minute call off, I advised Shkoor that two kilos would be enough, there would be Starters to deal with also.

Behold the Sparkling Water! A rarity in the Southside Curry Cafes, and hopefully here to stay, at Yadgar anyway. No needless sugar intake for Hector today, just a mountain of food.

Spiced Onions, and they were, came first followed by a Salad featuring pickled Chillies and Green Olives. Poppadoms too, all tore in save the author who was waiting for the real Starters.

       Shami Kebab  &  Chapli Kebab

For Hector, the soft, mushy Shami do not match the quality or impact of the Chapli. Strangely, the Shami have a red Meat base whilst the Chapli are Chicken, not my usual preference.

The tactic worked, a veritable plateful of Diversity topped with the hot Chilli Sauce was assembled. When heated, this hot sauce is the icing on the cake. That metaphor appears to have become muddled.

The palate was invigorated, Spice and a variety of Flavours.

Time for a break. An opperchancity to see what we could have won:

Shkoor asked if we were ready for the main event.

Five minutes – as if that would make a difference. We can pretend it does.

Last week’s visit to Sara – Donner Kebab – the new Portuguese Curry House round the corner was mentioned. Did the Portuguese invent Curry? – I had to ask.

(They certainly took Chillies to India and brought back Peppercorns.)

I announced the relevance,  my trip to Lisboa next month.

It was time. Another batch of warm plates and fresh cutlery heralded the arrival of the Karahi and two Vegetable Dishes.

Aloo Gajar Mutter and Aloo Baingan were the two Vegetable distractions today.

That’ll do us, this is the real stuff, we don’t need any of that Meat nonsense – I proffered as Shkoor placed the two plates on the table. That’ll be the day.

Goshat Karahi

Whatever the magic afore, the food was presented in two woks. Lamb Chops stood out proudly, projecting above the other Lamb pieces, some of which had bone, some without. The customary Coriander and Ginger Strips topped both Karahi.

Five Have A Wonderful Time!

Wok #1 sat before Howard and Hector, wok #2 went to the far end of the table, Jim and Davy could focus on that. With Dr. Stan sitting opposite, mid table, I waited to see if he went right or left. He chose to his right, helping the – buddies – leaving Howard and Hector with an impossible task.

After we had all taken a decent portion, both karahi looked decidedly – full. This was not Goshat Karahi by the kilo, but Goshat Karahi by the tonne.

Starting with the Aloo Gajar Mutter, Potato/Carrots/Peas, I knew exactly what to expect: an astonishing level of Flavour and Spice in a Vegetable Curry, which at Yadgar, is only surpassed by their Aloo Gobi. Or so I thought. The Carrots add a Sweetness to the otherwise Earthy Flavours, The Yadgar Taste is my only reference point, and as is written on every visit: how does Chef get so much Flavour with such Minimal Masala, and no Meat?

Aubergine, everyone’s favourite Vegetable, with a tendency to turn to mush, not a favoured Texture. I’ve had Aloo Baingan/Batau’n here before so a well known and reliable Curry Blog assures me. Here was an even greater intensity of Flavour. How?

On its own, Aloo Baingan wouldn’t work, as part of our feast, stunning!

The Chapattis had arrived, a few to be getting on with. More than enough as it happened. Huge, light and only a hint of Wholemeal Chapatti Flour, far from intrusive. I had to relate last week’s horror story of the Wholemeal Paratha served across the river.

The Meat. The Masala. The Bones. The Lamb was as Tender as Lamb can be, nowhere near pulp, but only minimal chewing required. From here, Flavour, Meat that gives, that which differentiates – Desi – from – Mainstream – in these pages.

The Masala was the defining parameter, even more Spice, more than normal? The Yadgar Taste – once more to the fore. Meat shrouded, no more, by the tastiest of Masala, and minimal Bones. Well, until it was time to tackle the Lamb Chops.

With Davy being the debutant, I encouraged him not to hold back. Why did we still have so much Karahi? Shkoor came to ask the customary question. The usual noises emanated from around the table.

This is ridiculous – said the Hector pointing to the Aloo Baingan. Almost worth the entry money alone.

Check your scales – was then suggested by this bold commentator.

Having seen – the kilo – at some venues, I have wondered if they were including the weight of the pot. Shkoor’s response was along the lines of not having served us by weight, but by how much he has seen us eat. That was pre-Covid, who can still eat the same quantity?

In time, Dr. Stan did turn left, still we had enough food for the missing diner. I assured Shkoor that we had a good home for it to go to. For the record, it wasn’t Paisley.

It was time to secure a few words of appreciation. At the outset, Jim had declared:

The sauce is awesome.

Davy had offered a – Yip!

The Hector needed more. A sarcastic – Adequate – and – Excellent – were added respectively.

Dr. Stan – Brilliant as ever.

Howard, aka Mr. Kabana, can always be relied upon:

A noticeable increase in spice level since my last visit here. It’s remarkable how they maintain this level of flavour and intensity.

Dr. Stan interrupted: I concur.

The vegetable side dishes were more than complementary, a brilliant accompaniment to an already excellent meal. Although it’s only early January, this is already one of the major eating experiences of the year.

Would there be room for Dessert? The compartmentalisation of appetite had already been discussed, there’s always room for Dessert. Jim was keen to sample the Kheer once again.

Mmmmm – Rice Pudding, his favourite.

The Bill

What number do you have in mind? – was my prepared question to Shkoor. We cannot underpay.

Five times – was all that had to be said. Three digits in cash was presented and accepted.

The Aftermath

There were thanks and farewells as we departed. I assured Shkoor I would next be at Yadgar after Portugalwhere they have real Curry.

Rua do Benformoso!

Later, a text from Jim with a few more words:

Thanks for a wonderful lunch, food was up to its usual high standard. David enjoyed his first visit and proclaimed it would not be his last.

That’s more like it. Such outings are always fun, but as I have to remind peeps, don’t thank me, I didn’t cook the food.

Posted in Yadgar Kebab House | 2 Comments

Glasgow – Sara – Donner Kebab – Portuguese Desi Curry on The Southside!

At the end of November, the Hector checked out Sara – Donner Kebab (193 Allison Street, Govanhill Glasgow G42 8RX). More of a Takeaway than a Curry Cafe, the potential was spotted. With Kofta Anda at Sheerin Palace the fallback, I popped my head into Sara and enquired about sitting in. At 14.10, this was earlier than the advertised 15.00 opening.

I could see a tray with remnants of something with Potato behind the counter.

Curry, Lamb, what do you have?

Lamb Curry – was the instant response – with Rice, Naan?

Rice felt like the safer option in this new setting for Curry.

Your Curry is Desi? – felt like a somewhat limp follow up. How else could Mein Host reply? As reported previously, – Desi – is clearly stated on the menu.

Above medium – was proffered.

All was confirmed.

I sat on a cushion on the window ledge, not invading the space of the little boy who was being minded this afternoon. I briefly studied the menu. Lamb Curry should be priced at £10.45 with included Rice/Naan. Whether this would maintain for sitting in, time would tell.

With the Order relayed to the back kitchen, Mein Host did chat a bit. He had spotted me taking the exterior photo, and so I explained I was a Curry enthusiast and was therefore keen to try this latest addition to the Glasgow Curry scene. Well, maybe not in these actual words. An elder chap made the occasional appearance out front, the Chef?

Papa – was how the little boy addressed Mein Host. Clue #1.

Mein Host brought the food, – steaming hot food – an immediate plus.

Despite a Modest Salad occupying the edge of the plate, the mound of Basmati was huge. Clue #2. Cumin Seeds were mixed through the Rice – Jeera Rice. How much do Mainstream Restaurants charge for this?

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Lamb Curry

Minimal toppings, just a simple bowl of Oily, Blended Masala with Lamb. The Coriander was then mixed through the Masala, the Oil was partly absorbed. The Salad components would offer a welcomed diversity of Texture. I counted eight pieces of Meat, each one large and requiring to be halved. As ever, I retained a fair percentage of the Masala for the end game.

There was an immediate blast of Spice, the Seasoning hit hard too, then something else. This was different, unlike anything else served on Allison Street. Clue #3. I ate on.

The Masala had distinct white flecks in the mix. Initially I considered Yoghurt, in time I would recognise this white ingredient.

The Meat was Tender-firm, I had to use a knife to cut it, a rarity for Hector. The Lamb gave off a potent sense of Seasoning and in time the underlying Flavour which was still puzzling.

A Euro Curry taste – came the mind. Clue #4. Eventually I recognised the source of the strong, dominant Flavour – Garlic. On sampling the Masala alone once more, I was satisfied that indeed – Garlic – was the source of the intense Flavour. For those who enjoy a South Indian Garlic Chilli Chicken/Lamb, this Curry would surely be a dream come true. Personally, I would have toned it down a bit.

As I ate, so Mein Host came over to make the customary check. He showed me his phone – Sara Kebab Churrasqueira RamadaLisboa, Portugal!

Mein Host is Portuguese! Everything now made sense.

The Curry of Portugal has been celebrated in Curry-Heute since the first trip to – Madeira. Thereafter, three trips to Lisboa, and to a lesser extent Porto-Gaia, have put Portugal in the calendar for an annual visit. Next month, the first foreign trip of 2024. Having located the premises shown in Ramada, a northern suburb of Lisboa, it appears to now be an Italian restaurant. I had to mention – Rua do Benformoso – the axis which I refer to as – Lisboa’s Curry Mile.  There was a meeting of minds, this is a special street.

On showing the list of Curry Houses visited in Lisboa, Mein Host must have been wondering who he was dealing with.

Are you from the council? – he would ask me later.

Meanwhile, back at the Curry, my final note – the Seasoning is right up there.

Having been given the Euro-portion of Rice, no way was this going to be finished. Once the remaining Masala was poured over, it was time to call it a day.

Did I mention the infusion of Garlic?

The Bill

£8.95. The Calling Card effect.

The Aftermath

I enquired about the tray of Curry I had seen earlier – Chicken, Lamb and Potato – or – Murgh Aloo Gosht

More trays were produced: Khadu, Daal and Aloo Palak.

I verified that all Dishes listed are available in Lamb. The Karahi will have to be tried, but only if the offending Vegetable can be withheld. Sara – could well be the only Govanhill venue where this is an issue.

Sara – Donnner Kebab – Desi Curry with a Portuguese tint.

Who invented Curry anyway?

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Glasgow – Mother India’s Cafe – Happy New Year – 2024!

January 2nd, an opperchancity to wish everyone a Happy New Year, and have the first Curry of 2024. This year Hector plans to report from places even further afield than managed previously, a trip that was shelved due to Covid is finally taking shape.

I’m still waiting for Moiz at Handi by Darbar to declare the former Karahi Palace – open. Any day now…

Having enjoyed the South Indian fayre at Madhras Dosa in recent weeks, there was the realisation that their nearest neighbour – Mother India’s Cafe (1355 Argyle St, Glasgow, G3 8AD) had not been visited for over two years. Time to rectify.

There was a group of eight or so blocking the entrance when I arrived at 13.30, they waved me through. A table for one was available immediately. The group had to wait, such is the no booking policy at Mother India’s Cafe. I was shown to the same small table in the far room that I have occupied in nearly every visit over the years.

The menu was brought, prices have increased in line with inflation since my last visit in August 2021. However, they are having a laugh with the price of a Chapatti. The former £0.95 charge has increased to £1.75. Anything over a Pound for a Chapatti is considered an outrage in these pages, Aberdoom prices. In a couple of weeks, the Hector will be enjoying three inclusive Chapattis in Bradford. So it goes.

Mein Host took the drinks order immediately. Sparkling Water: £3.50 for a small bottle, £4.95 for the large, a no brainer.

Today’s extra menu had Smoked Keema & Karela (£7.95). Smokiness and Bitterness, that’s some creation. I passed.

For Hector, at Mother India’s Cafe it has to be Machi Masala (£7.95), they set the standard for Fish Curry in this city many moons ago. The avoidance of Capsicum took me to South Indian Ginger Lamb (£8.50) as the second – Tapas – portion. A Paratha (£3.50) completed the Order.

Nothing appears to have changed at Mother India’s Cafe. The tables and decor are as they always have been. Mein Host aside, the staff were all young, and new. It was a chap who brought the Order.

The Paratha was served whole as is preferred. With some bunt blisters and a suggestion of layering, it was ticking boxes. Alas, it had been made from Wholemeal Flour, why?

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Machi Masala

There was certainly more Fish in the portion than there was in the early years at Mother India’s Cafe. With Ginger Strips atop the Thick Masala, all looked well. Hot food and a big Spicy blast, I was off to a good start.

Traces of both Red then Green Capsicum skins would be encountered, needless. The soft, white Fish did retain its integrity. The Masala had a – tang – which was different from the anticipated – citrus. The Seasoning was not prominent, and there was little sense of Fishiness. This Machi Masala was nowhere near as impressive as had here oft.

With abundant Sparkling Water to hand, there was a big rinse of the palate before round #2.

South Indian Ginger Lamb

Wot, no Ginger Strips? It took a while to identify the translucent topping. It had to be Syboes, no Ginger Blast then. The Thick Masala was worryingly similar to the Machi Masala, surely not? On tasting, it did seem a bit Sweeter.

The Meat count increased as I ate, a sixth tiddler was unearthed in time. Two pieces, and a couple of Quid more, then – Tapas – could be abandoned, but clearly that is not the model at this venue.

The soft Lamb was evidently from – The Big Pot. It was not giving anything beyond the taste of the Lamb itself.

With less Spice and still unremarkable Seasoning, there wasn’t much to celebrate here. The dry Red Chilli which has featured in this Curry previously was not present. Nor was any sign of the distinctive South Indian burnt Spice/Coconut, i.e. Smokiness.

Other things were occupying Hector’s mind. Reclassifying Mother India’s Cafe as – Mainstream – was being considered. Neither Masala was particularly impressive. How was I going to finish this second Tapas portion?

Abandoning the Bread is the customary tactic. Today, I was particularity keen to do so. The Paratha had become annoying. Why are Chefs using Wholemeal Flour in Chapattis never mind Paratha? Is it cheaper?

There was the acceptance that I was not tasting my Curry because of the overwhelming Flavour of Wholemeal Flour in the Paratha. No more Paratha, next time a Naan (£3.50).

Another rinse. Hector rarely drinks during the eating of a Curry.

All was not lost. Things did improve, but the Big South Indian Flavours never did materialise. However, the Curry had become much more pleasant, finally a sense of – richness – from the Masala. The bowl was scraped clean as far as the spoon permitted.

Here’s the dilemma. Two Curry Houses in the Kelvin Hall area, both offering South Indian Curry. The Masala at Madhras Dosa is annoyingly – Soupy – but has the required intensity of Flavour, plus there’s their glorious Malabar Parotta. Here the Texture of the Masala is as Hector desires, but if Capsicum keeps sneaking in the choice of which venue to favour becomes simpler. Mother India’s Cafe has ambience.  Marg likes ambience. She also has the highest regard for their Butter Chicken (£7.95). It may well be Marg who calls for our next visit to Mother India’s Cafe.

The Bill

£24.90 It’s time Hector crossed the river.

The Aftermath

Mein Host wiped my table as I finished the copious Sparking Water. No recognition, but then visits here are sporadic.

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