Manchester – Kabana (Cheetham Hill) – Bhindi, oot the windae

Wednesday is – Quail Day – at Kabana (Cheetham Hill) (133 Cheetham Hill Rd., Manchester, England M8 8LY). I confirmed yesterday with Rizwan, Mein Host at the mother shop in the Northern Quarter that I would be heading up towards Cheetham Hill this lunchtime. Rizwan assured me that I would finally get to meet his brother – Mani – who I have missed on previous visits.

Hector and Marg, who already had eaten, entered Kabana (CH) at 14.15, Paul the co-host remembered me from last month, the other chap had to be…

Introductions were made, the brothers may sound the same, Mani is more handsome, by far. That’s one boat burnt.

Mani had – good news and bad news – for me. Someone/something had disrupted the usual Wednesday pattern, no Quail had been prepared. Instead, another – SpecialLamb and Bhindi was on offer. Paul in particular raved about this, I thought I’d better take the opperchancity. I related how I had recently been enlightened as to the correct way to cook Okra in order to stop it turning to mush. I ordered the Lamb and Bhindi plus Rice.

As with last time, the Rice portion was enough to feed half of Asia, for a month. I shall again refrain at this point from using the ubiquitous – literally – and settle for hyperbole. Mani confirmed that I wanted the Curry on top of the Rice and not in a separate bowl.

Marg introduced cans of Mango Rubicon, much deserved after the hot walk over from the Northern Quarter.

The conversation with Paul, Mani and Hector continued. Haggis Curry was mentioned. Why would you? Haggis is already a Spicy Delicacy. Haggis Pakora? Chip shops in Scotland have been serving Haggis in batter for decades at a fraction of the cost that restaurants charge for similar balls of Haggis (Pakora).

With an appropriate quantity of – foliage – added, I took my seat. Marg had chosen a table at the front window. The staff member who had looked after Steve and I so well last month was having his lunch in the main dining area. There was simultaneous acknowledgement.

Lamb with Bhindi

The Curry looked paler than the Karahi I am used to having at Kabana NQ. There were small slices of Okra visible, plus longer pieces which had been cooked into the Masala.

My first mouthful was off the top of the mound, somehow I had managed to scoop up a spoonful of sliced Chillies. This shocked the palate and may well have wiped out the taste-buds. Not the best of starts.

I could see the huge quantity of Lamb under the jungle, the majority of pieces were on-the-bone. Having nowhere on the plate to set these aside, I ate on, concentrating on the Masala soaked Rice. Seasoning was an issue, Rizwan’s Karahi is always well Seasoned, Mani’s Masala was way below the Hector idyll.

Paler Meat, suitably Tender, one assumes it was sourced from the same magical butcher which Rizwan uses? Time to address the Bhindi: it was soft, slimy, not as Hector desires. Where was the firmness which even this commentator can now manage?

I had a mountain to get through, Marg observed the struggle.

How is it?

Nothing special – was the ever honest reply.

As I tidied up my plate and estimated what might be a respectful quantity of Rice to abandon, Marg described the ongoing – Festival of Food – at the table behind me. A chap had ordered Lamb Karahi, so Marg observed, with Chips and a Chapatti, Salad and Lamb Chops. Marg was looking on enviously at the well charred Lamb Chops, one for the future. Chops & Bateera? Anyway, he arranged the Meat over the Chips leaving the Masala for dipping with his Chapatti. Curry & Chips? His strategy was to abandon the surplus Chips and leave the delight that was the Lamb Chops to the end. Oh to be able to eat that amount of food this early in the day.

The Bill

£9.40    Including the two cans of pop.

The Aftermath

At the risk of upsetting Mein Host, I had to tell Mani that his Brother’s Curry has more Seasoning. For Hector, Seasoning is all.

As for the Okra, I suppose that having sat in the kettle, the outcome was inevitable.

Well stuffed, it was back down the hill towards Victoria. How many times have I walked up/down Cheetham Hill Road? Strangeways, so close, close enough.

Later, I described my visit to Kabana (CH) to Curryspondent Neil, he who painstakingly proofreads these pages, in time.

Bhindi, oot the windae – was his suggestion.

It wisnae Quail.

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Manchester – Kabana – Meanwhile, back in Manchester…

Two days in Manchester, first stop as always – Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1LQ England). A fragrant Marg, accompanied by a hot and sweaty Hector, arrived in The Northern Quarter at 15.45, Rizwan, Mein Host, was outside taking a phone-call, I announced that we would wait inside to be served by the man himself. The other two front of house chaps acknowledged me, hopefully I did not upset them by declining service. One did come and tuck Hector in at the table.

I wonder what I’ll have – I said to Rizwan minutes later, as if there was any doubt. Karahi Lamb on-the-bone (£6.00) with Rice (£1.50) for Hector, Keema Peas (£5.30) and a Chapatti (£0.80) for Marg. Marg ordering – Mince – no change there either.

Rizwan brought the Keema Peas followed by the three tubs of – foliage. Ah, the foliage, help yourself, a significant feature of Curry in Manchester.

Karahi Lamb

The naked Curry is tasty enough, the smothering of Coriander Leaves adds a a new dimension to the overall Flavour, then there’s the added bite from the finely chopped Ginger and sliced Green Chillies.

Line up Curry from a hundred restaurants, and Hector will pick out the Kabana Karahi every time. Cloves and Peppercorns were unearthed, the Flavours in the blended Masala, magical. The quality of the Lamb always astonishes, beautifully Tender and full of Flavour, the joy of Meat that has actually been in contact with the Masala for longer than the Mainstream Restaurants.

I positioned a large Clove beside the pile of bones. The chap who clears up was amused, I told him that the Cloves are fundamental to what makes this Curry. The Meat being served on-the-bone, for those who wish it that way, adds even more. Spectacular Curry, yet Marg ordered Mince.

Keema Peas

Behold as Dry a Keema as one can encounter, and no sign of peripheral Oil. Rice would not work with this Curry.

The accompanying Chapatti was huge. Risen and puffy, quite a departure from the standard fayre.

Marg made short work of her late lunch:

Keema is my favourite option for Curry at the moment (?) and this Keema with Peas did not disappoint, plenty flavour with a kick, complemented by a very hot and fresh Chapatti.

As always, Rizwan took time to chat, perhaps surprised to see Hector back in Manchester so soon. I had warned him of a Scottish invasion this week. Others in – The Company – will no doubt visit.  For Hector, tomorrow is Wednesday, that means Quail at – the other – Kabana.

The Bill

£13.60  Amazing value.

The Aftermath

And so, back out into the heat. It was reported earlier that nowhere in the UK reached the present temperature throughout August.

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Manchester – Delhi2go – Meet The New Boss

After a late lunch at Kabana, there was no way Hector could face a late night Curry, a far cry from a decade ago when the Curry Hound was still a pup. This did not not stop me popping in to delhi2go (119 Oldham St., Manchester M4 1LN England) around midnight to continue the rapport that has been ongoing in recent years. Only one front of house chap currently recognises Hector, he was outside getting some air on this sweltering night.

On entering I asked for Chef Shahid. He was out of the kitchen in a flash. I apologised for not ordering one of his wondrous creations, Knowing that tomorrow, Wednesday, is his day off, my regret was relayed that I would miss out on this trip. The next few minutes were truly bizarre. Shahid asked what time I might come tomorrow, he would come in on his day off to cook for Hector. This was an offer I had to decline. Shahid then declared that I needed a delhi2go t-shirt. He produced not one, but four xl polo shirts. Unbelievable.

A mature chap whom I was told last month was Mohammed’s uncle, the owner, entered. A younger chap behind the counter was clearly in charge, this was Saqib, I was then introduced to Shamsmian. There had to be a photo, hopefully I have the names the right way round.

Saqib, Chef Shahid, Hector, Shamsmian

So, Mohammed is no more, a shift in the ownership within the family, and Mian has found employment elsewhere. Mian, if you ever read this, get in touch, my friend.

The Aftermath

I might get away with wearing this, but it will be a tight fit.

Who wants a polo shirt?

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Edinburgh – Kebab Mahal – Back for More

Edinburgh Curry, again?

Kebab Mahal (7 Nicolson Square, Edinburgh EH8 9BH), again? Something is afoot. Even Marg decided to join the party.

As we approached Nicolson Street, Marg spotted an interestingly named shop on the opposite side of the street. Emek Hayarden – I spontaneously translated – Jordan Valley – into the Hebrew. I even cooked a Curry there for the masses in the first months of Curry-Heute.

Last week’s visit to Kebab Mahal saw this venue being added to Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses and the creation of their own page on Curry-Heute. Today I decided to turn the clock back to my first visit and have the Curry which the Curryspondents assured me was the reason for coming – Methi Ghoust (£7.95) – even though I knew it was not presented here in Hector’s favoured style. It was a matter of needing something completely different. What could possibly follow the truly outstanding Karahi Lamb served last Saturday at Karahi Palace (Glasgow)? To accompany, I decided to forego the always pleasing Mushroom Rice (£2.95) and go for the Vegetable Pilau (£2.95). Diversity.

Marg thought about Starters for a moment and then played it safe – Lamb Keema Curry (£7.85) and a Chapati (£1.15). Master Khan took the Order. Today I ensured that a jug of tap water was provided. I also took the opperchancity to verify that for the Karahi Ghoust (£11.50) is still available on-the-bone. It is, the current Menu does not make this clear.

It was 14.00 when we arrived, all tables were occupied by the time we departed. Perhaps it is time to restore the full quota of tables?

Mr. Khan brought the food himself. His greeting was one of definite recognition. It was my fourth visit since the end of April.

The Chapatti was suitably thin, but appreciably larger than average. The Vegetable Pilau was in effect a Vegetable Biryani. Present in the moist Rice were: Peas, Sweetcorn, Green Beans, Onion and Potato. What a plateful! More on the Potato to follow.

Lamb Keema Curry

A plate of Mince with Oil collecting around the periphery was presented. It did look a bit plain. I asked Marg why she hadn’t ordered the version with – Peas – which she had last time, her preferred Curry is Keema Mutter. She hadn’t spotted – Keema Matar Curry (£7.85).

Some pieces of the dreaded green mush, i.e. Capsicum, had sneaked in. This has never been an issue previously at Kebab Mahal. Perhaps another reason to have the Keema Matar. The Spice Level was pitched at a level which was within Marg’s level of tolerance. For reasons that will become apparent, Marg was finished long before Hector, her plates cleared. She gave the following verdict:

Quite a kick, enjoyed the flavour with additional onions and small pieces of green pepper. A good quantity and combined well with my Chapatti. It was good.

Methi Ghoust

OK, so I like Masala with Methi, not a mass of Herbs, but I was in the mood for this today. The pinkish, columnar Lamb was into double figures, large pieces too. I piled the Methi Ghoust high on top of the Rice, a Curry Tower?

This was a first, and proved just how Dry-Thick this Curry was. Was this actually Curry? The Methi Mash had no features of being a Masala proper. I started with the Rice.

The Rice itself was bursting with Flavour, the various Vegetables added the required variety of Flavours and Textures, then I reach the Potato – Wow! My first – wow – at Kebab Mahal. The Spices which had been used to flavour the Rice had been totally absorbed by the pieces of Potato. I can see the Vegetable Pilau being a – must have – on all future visits.

Unlike last week, today, I had not asked for extra Salt, so there was no surprise when I found the Level of Seasoning to be low. The Flavours from the Rice compensated, then there was the Methi blast. Pleasant, but still I missed some traditional Masala. I wonder how the Sag Ghoust (£7.95) compares?

With Bread instead of Rice, the enjoyment level today would have been reduced. I worked my way through this mountain of – Curry – taking my time as is the new normal. Excellent, but the Vegetable Pilau was the deciding contributor.

The Bill

£19.30 A few pence less than anticipated.

The Aftermath

I showed Mr. Khan the Kebab Mahal page on Curry-Heute. He was both impressed and appreciative.

There’s one thing missing, I need your photograph.

Next time – was the response.

Maybe no masks by then? We shall see.

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – It’s Black & White !

Black & White? The population of our fair city belongs in one of two groups: those who know how wonderful the Curry is at Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) and visit regularly, and those who don’t. Hector makes a point of being here monthly, however, as has been written oft in these pages, this is self restraint in the extreme.

Mags enquired on Thursday about my Curry plans for this afternoon. Mags, Marg and Chapatti John have each asked me in the past week why I dine alone so frequently, especially on Saturdays. People know if I’m in Glasgow on a Saturday afternoon, I’ll be in a Curry House, they only have to ask.

Today’s was not my first visit to Karahi Palace this week. On Monday afternoon, I came intent on having my Karahi Lamb (£9.00) fix, to find three of the four street level tables occupied by families with weans, and the fourth table waiting to be cleared of dirty plates etc. How many weans? Literally hundreds – to use the annoying vernacular which currently prevails. But that is not why I took my leave. Having taken a place at the free table before anyone else got there, I was advised by the new chap that there was – no Chef and therefore no Karahi. This was not good, but then the assembled mass were eating Burgers, Pizza and Kebabs, perhaps one of the four capable Chefs had taken a break?

With more time at my disposal, I should have turned left and gone to The Village. Alas, being 14.40 the thought of the Buffet at Namak Mandi (which ends at 15.00) came to mind. Such is the pricing of their Lunchtime Buffet, even the dregs might be good value. There was no Buffet. There was no Curry-Heute, had there been it would have been posted. This was not the end of Hector’s frustration. I walked out of a third establishment, one I had seen queued out previously. Having taken my seat and studied the menu, I have to challenge the owners of that particular chain as to why they think they are serving – Deutsche – Donner? For a start, they don’t have the correct Bread which is a major feature of the genre.

I arrived at Karahi Palace early. I had allowed extra time to purchase my train ticket, the subject of a rant on a certain social medium last Saturday. Why are all train tickets not available on the apps, especially Scotrail’s who offer the concession fare? Mags arrived moments after the arranged 14.00.

Have you ordered? –  asked Mags, there being no secret as to what she was having. I had elected to wait before ordering the inevitable: Karahi Kamb and Aloo Gosht (£8.00). The latter is now firmly part of the Menu at Karahi Palace, Mags has played her part in this – the best Aloo Gosht in the World! I think I’ve had it here once, so just how good is the Karahi Gosht?

I photographed the new menu posters on the wall. I am amused that the – Chefs Specials – do not appear to be available in Lamb. All Lamb at Karahi Palace, Kofta aside, is served – on-the-bone – and long may this be so.

The waiter who had disappointed me on Monday took the Order.

Roti? – yes – I replied. Mags asked for a Chapatti (£0.80). Is there a difference as to what is served here? This is my one hundred and twenty second-th review of Karahi Palace, perhaps I should have established this some time back?

Salad was declined, however we both had a can of Mango Rubicon (£1.00) and shared a jug of tap water.

The Bread was presented whole, as it should be, the Roti underneath. They were different. The Chapatti was lighter, thinner, White Chapatti flour? The Roti was thicker, Wholemeal Chapatti flour? The only other sit in customer praised the thinness of the Chapatti as he left, quite unusual. Also unusual, my Roti stayed soft, the first one I’ve ever had which did not turn to crisp. I ate every bit, Mags only needed half a Chapatti.

Karahi Lamb

I should make a video – I said to the waiter when he placed the karahi before me. In the past, I have. Hot – does not begin to describe the temperature. The Oil and Masala sizzled for more than a minute.

Hot-hot-hot! – was my inevitable remark as I attempted to eat a bit of Roti dipped in the Oil. For reasons unknown, with care, one’s mouth can tolerate temperatures fingers cannot. The Meat would have to wait.

Sliced Green Chillies, cooked in, complemented the Toppings – Ginger Strips and Coriander. When I dared to try the Lamb, there was an eruption of Flavour on the palate. Here is what separates the best Curry Cafes from the Mainstream Restaurants, the Meat is not a last minute add-on, it is an integral part of the Curry. Tender would not begin to describe this Meat, seriously soft, yet maintaining shape and texture, no sign of pulp in this Karahi Gosht. There’s more, but at this point I have to bring in Mags.

Aloo Gosht

Mags marvelled at the size of the portion. When visiting Karahi Palace after days out in Musselburgh, Mags tended to eat half and take the rest home. Now she manages this size of portion with little effort. Not that she doesn’t have Takeaways, she proudly showed me the Karahi Palace app on her phone.

As I ate, so I became aware of the fatty bits still attached to the Meat, I was having no problems with this whatsoever, however it was Mags who stated that this was adding even more to the overall Flavour. I had to agree.

Still the best Aloo Gosht served anywhere, and I’ve had a few – Mags declared, and not for the first time – and today’s is the best ever, I don’t know how Rashid does it.

My sentiments indeed, Chef Rashid is the Maestro.

On Wednesday at Kebab Mahal (Edinburgh), I was aware of the Tomatoes cooking in the hot Oil and giving a Flavour which was approaching that served here. Hector’s brain cells started to vibrate, trying to identify that which turns the ordinary into the spectacular. I once again considered the Tomatoes. Tomato Seeds were visible in the Masala Mash, which today was truly spectacular. Dare I say that Rashid had – over-Seasoned – my Karahi six weeks ago?

Today’s was more spot-on than spot-on, as in Kevin Kostner’s – Robin Hood – firing an arrow. As a consequence, all the Spices therein were working in harmony but I was particularly aware of the Tomato. Seared Tomato – has become my new thesis. The Oil was so hot, it gives a new dimension to the Flavour?

The Bill

£20.60 And this includes the £2.00 for drinks.

The Aftermath

I applauded Chef Rashid as we took our leave.

It’s good to thank him face to face – observed Mags.

Ah, the curse of the app, Chef doesn’t know who he is cooking for.

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Renfrew – Times of Punjab – Established 2020

Curryspondent David contacted me last week to recommend Times of Punjab (63 Hairst St., Renfrew PA4 8QU). A fellow Bankie, he too had taken to crossing the water in search of a worthy Curry.

A midweek visit was considered, I phoned on Monday to confirm the noon and subsequent all day opening (Monday to Saturday, 15.00 on a Sunday), but instead, decided to make a night of it. A Friday night out, and with Marg, a rarity. This evening I booked a table for two at 19.30.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Friday night in Renfrew, the streets were all but deserted, finding a parking spot on Hairst St. was not a problem. Getting home later proved to be so, Paisley Rd. was closed, if only there was a bridge connecting Renfrew with Yoker!

Times of Punjab is an upstairs venue, I stopped on the stairs to take photos of the Muriels (sic) which proved to be a feature of the décor throughout. We stood adjacent to the bar and waited to be shown to our seats. Low tables and comfy chairs occupied the central area opposite the bar, diners are actively encouraged to sit here for drinks before and after their meal. Or, simply just come for a drink. Bar-Restaurant is a feature of some European Curry Houses, I have not seen much evidence for this taking off in the UK.

With the far left dining area clearly busy, we were shown to the quieter right. A waitress brought the Menu, the drinks order was taken, a large bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.50) sufficed. Times of Punjab may be a bar, I saw nothing to tempt me, but then the Bier-Traveller does have quite discerning tastes.

Our selections would come from the House Specials, many Dishes contained – Peppers. Marg and I both focussed on the same Curry – Desi Punjabi Masalacooked with fresh ginger, garlic, peppers, spring onions, fresh chillies, tomatoes and coriander. Desi Punjabi cuisine is Hector’s preferred Curry style, if the dreaded ballast could be withheld, a possible winner. If not then – Nentaraa choice of meat simmered and added to a tarka base with fried onions and coriander. Marg’s alternative to the above was Rogan Josh served in the contemporary creamy style, not the original classic with abundant Tomatoes.

How many encounters has Hector had with useless girlies who do not know one Dish on the menu from another? This was most certainly not the case at Times of Punjab. The waitress proved to be knowledgeable, she did not have to consult about withholding the Capsicum. When Marg enquired as to the consistency of the Masala in the Nentara, she used the term – bulk – to describe what – Peppers – would do. This young lady was very much aware.

Rather than reproduce a list of endless variants, the Menu shows a £8.95 for Chicken Tikka Breast, Pan Fried Machi and Prawns, or £9.95 for Tender Lamb. Fish the same price as Chicken? Wonderful, I have questioned for years why venues consider – Fish – being worthy of a supplement. That – Tender Lamb – was the standard for the House Specials also encouraged. Again, many venues resort to Lamb Tikka, surely best enjoyed without a Masala?

Having studied the Takeaway Menu also, I note the availability of Karahi and Punjabi Korma, not on the Restaurant Menu. If these are served in the truly authentic style, I would love to sample these. Karahi Gosht may well be Hector’s #1 Curry, then there’s a Desi Korma, a stalwart Curry of The Village (Glasgow).

Our Order was placed: Pan Fried Machi Desi Punjabi Masala (£8.95), Lamb Nentara (£9.95), Special Rice (£3.50 and a Chapatti (£1.50).

Sitting beside a partition and with two couples behind Marg, photographing our surroundings was difficult. The adjacent table therefore features, plus one of the kegs suspended from the ceiling. Times of Punjab is also a bar, just in case this is not obvious.

The Chapatti and Special Rice arrived first. The Chapatti was of standard size, not the monsters served in Glasgow’s Curry Cafes, Marg would require some Rice. The Special Rice was decided moist, oily, even. With pieces of Onion to the fore, these were a distraction from the toppings of Coriander and Syboes. Peas and Mushrooms also featured, plus what I took to be Bay Leaves. Tasty Rice, and enough for us to share with Hector having the majority.

Pan Fried Machi Desi Punjabi Masala

Plenty of Fish was the first observation as I decanted the solids. White and in oblong cuts, possibly Monkfish tails. But then, apart from being Masala Fish, what does Hector know? The brown, blended Masala contained signs of Herbs, in time I would unearth Green Cardamom and Cloves, though the latter may have been in the Rice. A Fish Curry, expectations are always high, Karahi Gosht may be my go to order, only because it is so difficult to find outstanding Fish Curry.

I had asked for – above medium spice – this had been noted and was duly delivered. The Seasoning I registered as – low – initially, but as the Flavour of the Fish came across, not a problem. The Fish felt unusually soft, I highly recommend this Curry to anyone who has difficulty in chewing. The Masala intrigued, something different, something new. I relayed to Marg that I was particularly enjoying this Curry. Had this Curry been in Lamb, it would have been a completely different experience. The aforementioned Cardamom and Cloves, in conjunction with the solids in the Special Rice, added to the Diversity of Flavours, and in terms of the edible bits, Texture.

The large cut Onions were my only negative. Far from being the dreaded blobs which Marg always seems to attract, their highly visible presence put them on the limits of tolerance. Finely chopped Onions please.

I most certainly enjoyed this Curry, and being a Fish Curry, that is quite an accolade.

Lamb Nentara

The inclusion of – tarka – had made Marg hope for Crispy Onions. Instead, more of the large cut Onions protruded from the Reddish, Thick Masala. Marg is an Onion magnet. Having taken some of the Rice, Marg had to decant, the result looked quite familiar. I took a sample of the Masala, familiar indeed.

Renfrew is metres across the Clyde from Clydebank, somehow, The Clydebank Curry Taste has crossed the river. A – Reddish Sweetness – is how I can describe it. All down to the Onions, I conclude, bring on a Tomato-based Masala!

Having had Curry from Clydebank on very few occasions, Marg was not aware of the similarity. Like Hector, she enjoyed her Curry and ate almost every morsel.

Large pieces of tender lamb in a rich, red sauce with plenty of onion – began Marg – and a perfect spice level for me. Worked well with the Special Rice and the Chapatti, an enjoyable meal.

In the final moments of our eating, the chap who had brought the food returned to check on our progress. I pointed to the empty Rice plate and empty Curry pots.

No Peppers – was his observation. Indeed, neither of us had piles of Ballast.

Marg announced that Coffee was required. As a new waitress came to clear the table so Dessert was mooted. Apparently new Desserts had arrived this afternoon, being uncertain as to exactly what, she went off to fetch a sample. Cue a Salted Caramel Ice Cream (£4.25) and an extra hot Latte (£2.45).

We were here – to dine. Hector had to settle for the remains of the Sparkling Water. The Coffee was suitably – hot – the accompanying mint, the final indulgence.

The Bill

£34.55   Even waitress #2 remarked on the paucity of the total. Great value indeed.

The Aftermath

I had given the Calling Card to the waitress. As we made our way towards the exit so a staff member stood, Card in hand. This was the daughter of the entrepreneur who had established Times of Punjab. He has had outlets in Renfrew and Barrhead previously, the Shimla chain was mentioned. I welcome their decision to abandon – Buffet – and stick with a la carte.

We shall be back. The young lady with whom we chatted even mentioned – the bridge. How this river crossing will transform the connectivity of Clydebank to Renfrew Curry Houses and the airport, and Renfrew to a train station.

Update 2023

Priya and Kinder sold Times of Punjab at the end of 2022.  They now have Glassy Central (285 Sauchiehall Street, Glasgow G2 3HQ).

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Edinburgh – Kebab Mahal – Bespoke Karahi

Edinburgh in August, The Festival, not a good time of year to be in The Capital, unless one has tickets for an event or two. On Monday, someone mentioned Bier in the much praised Salt Horse, that was enough to bring Hector through to the east, even though there’s a trip scheduled to the far east tomorrow, Staggs (Musselburgh).

Hector had a cunning plan, another visit to the always impressive Kebab Mahal (7 Nicolson Square, Edinburgh EH8 9BH) would be the fifth, time for this humble establishment to graduate, and be recognised on Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses.

*

I arrived at 12.50, Mr. Khan, Mein Host, was in his spot, he gave his customary warm welcome. A couple were sitting at the table which appears to be the focal point of the room, next time I’ll be earlier. I sat on the far side at the wall, the laminated Menu was already in situ, I hadn’t noticed the price increases earlier in the year.

Karahi Ghoust (£11.50) was to be my choice, this time I would ask for – Chef to add a little extra Salt. Mr. Khan took this in his stride. In my excitement I forgot that I have had Karahi Ghoust here previously and served – on-the-bone – as is preferred. The new Menu does not convey if this is still available.

A Tandoori Nan (£2.15) would accompany. Yes, Hector was going to risk having Bread. No Rice? – I was asked. Rice with Karahi Gosht? I might be thrown out of one of my favourite Glasgow establishments if I did that.

There was no mention of liquids.

Ten to fifteen minutes passed, then the Order appeared. I glanced at the Curry, but couldn’t take my eyes off the Naan. Wtf? This was huge! Defeated already! I undid the fold and celebrated it’s wholeness. Mostly – Pale – with some burnt blisters at the centre. This was not cooked on a Tawa, the pan-handle/teardrop shape confirmed this. Later in the day would the Tandoor have been hotter?

Soft, light, fluffy, Hector had chosen a good day to abandon Rice. The Tandoori Naan was indeed – plain – no nasty Garlic contamination here. Overdosing on Bread, then having to eat neat Curry, is why I have avoided it recently. This Naan initially was too good not to eat, but it did go surprisingly crispy. At that point it was – Curry – by the spoonful.

Karahi Ghoust

Topped with but a threat of Coriander, the Curry too looked pale. The karahi itself appeared to be – small – how deceptive was this? There was no attempt at counting the Meat, with just enough Onion-rich Masala, there was enough Lamb here to justify this being the most expensive Curry on the menu. With the Oily residue already collecting around the periphery, it was time to dip. I tore off the point, my favourite part of a Naan. Can one buy six tips? (I shall consult my Rabbi.)

Oh, yes! We have Seasoning!

As much as I have enjoyed every Curry had to date at Kebab Mahal, the Seasoning has always been a bit below that which suits the Hector palate. Mr. Khan brought a Salt cellar to the table. I declared that I would not be using it – I like my Salt cooked in – and it had been.

The Spice Level was in no way demanding, some extra Chillies would not have gone amiss here. Ah, the Manchester foliage, this system should come north of the border. Nevertheless, this Karahi was all about the Flavour, and it kept coming.

Tomatoes had been added in the final moments before serving, these pieces kept on cooking in the Masala. Style and Flavour-wise,  Karahi Palace (Glasgow) came to mind, but without the bite, a touch of classic Rogan Josh followed, the Tomatoes. The soft Lamb tasted, well, of Lamb, quite a pronounced taste, always enjoyed.

Around the halfway point I could tell that the Meat count was still in double figures. I ordered a drink (£1.95), I wasn’t going to make it through the Curry otherwise. It was soon after this I had to abandon the Bread, a game changing moment. The Seasoning was to the fore, even more intense Flavours were revealed. Chef came out from the kitchen, on his return he asked:

Alright, young man?

I raised my thumbs, it’s rude to speak with one’s mouth full.

The joy of a quiet venue, Chef knew exactly who was eating his creation.

This Karahi Ghoust certainly passed muster. Next time, more Chillies, Methi, and on-the-bone?

I’m a great big, demanding old Hector.

Two chaps entered, young Master Khan recited their order to them before they spoke. Regulars. Aloo Ghobi (£4.75), I must try it!

The Bill

£15.60

The Aftermath

Thanks to a fire, a bridge crossing was closed. Stockbridge? Time for a tour of the city, well I am a tourist.

And so, Kebab Mahal is added to Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses, only the third venue in this city.

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Glasgow – Sheerin Palace – Kofta Anda + A look at Nan Factory

Yet another horrible, wet, Saturday in Glasgow; if August continues to be so, then, a priori, September can only be drier. Plodding through the puddles along Allison Street towards Sheerin Palace (300 Allison St, Govanhill/Crosshill, Glasgow, G42 8HQ), I noticed there was sign of activity at Nan Factory (223-225 Allison street, Glasgow, G42 8RU), this I would check out later.

Kofta Anda? – I said in both hope and expectation. I spotted the tray containing the telltale Oily Shorva, with Eggs protruding.

With? – asked the chap serving. Occasionally I recognise the staff here, this was certainly a new chap, so Hector’s ritual note-taking and photographing all, would be unknown to him.

Bread is the logical accompaniment for Kofta Anda, Hector is still not ready to abandon Rice. I asked for Rice and was offered the Chicken Biryani which sat beside the Meatballs. How many times have I had this at Sheerin Palace? I suppose the reheat was easier, and quicker, than preparing Plain Rice from scratch.

I have been looking forward to having Kofta Anda on these premises for many months. Back in June, Marg and Hector were here on a Wednesday, none left. At the end of April when freedom to travel was returning, I had to settle for a Takeaway as they were not having sit-in customers until after Ramadan. This means it was June 2019 when I last managed to secure one of my favourite Desi creations, and enjoy it at source.

A Salad and Raita were brought to the table. I asked for the customary jug of tap-water, they have stopped providing this, the curse of Covid? A Mango Rubicon was ordered, no Sparkling Water here.

I had a fellow diner for a few minutes. He too was enjoying the Biryani and a Seekh Kebab. I’ve never had a Seekh Kebab here, there’s no Menu, so who knows exactly what is available, and when?

Chicken Biryani

I had seen the chap decant a huge plateful of Biryani and was prepared for what came. Even so, I knew this would be beyond my capacity.

The Spiced Rice would probably be even more – interesting – with Vegetables. With this in mind, I added some of the Salad to the side of the plate, Raita too. I had been given the usual two pieces of Chicken on-the-bone. This was a feast.

Kofta Anda

Four Meatballs, one Egg, and a plateful of Shorva, the standard portion, however, the sliced Green Chillies and Coriander Leaves added a nice touch. I poured most of the Soupy Masala over the Rice and quite sensibly, retained some for later. Last week in Manchester, the difference in taste between the same Curry with Rice instead of Bread was highlighted. I halved my first Meatball, pinkish inside, Spicy, but not a huge amount of Flavour. I dipped the second half in the retained Shorva, now we’re talking. The Seasoning was in the Shorva and so the Flavours flooded out, excellent.

One Egg, two bits of Chicken, which comes first?

Having had quite a few spoonfuls of the tasty Rice, I then concentrated on the Egg. The Egg, Rice and Shorva made for a great combination. I still had Meatballs and Chicken. The coloured exterior of the Chicken suggested some sense of absorption, the inside was white, I rest my case. This was nothing like as flavoursome as the Quail/Baterai enjoyed at Kabana (Manchester) last week.

I was going to end up with dry Rice, or by adding more Raita, cold wet Rice. The serving chap came through to clear the other table and asked if I required anything else.

Can I have more Shorva, please?

He took my almost empty bowl away, minutes later I had a top-up. This transformed the meal, the injection of heat and moisture was exactly what was required, the lake on the plate was collateral damage. I admitted that I knew that I should have been having Bread with my Shorva, he told me he likes to soak his Chapatti in the Shorva. That I’m not ready for, but it would prolong the life of a Roti.

I had been given so much food, it was a matter of eating until I reached a point where I could leave a respectful amount. With a car, I would of course have taken all away. On a Saturday afternoon, other things are planned.

The origins of the Earthy Flavours which emanated from the Biryani were revealed: Green and Black Cardamom, Peppercorns and Cloves. Rice and Shorva, I wish I could have eaten more. My mission was interrupted, the chap came through with a Soupçon of Masa Daal.

Red Lentils – he informed me. It was cold, who eats cold Daal? Dry tasting, it might have been a worthy accompaniment if served – hot.

The thought was appreciated, it also confirmed that we were establishing a rapport, unusual at Sheerin Palace.

The Bill

£10.00    a round sum.

The Aftermath

Sheerin Palace is where I first encountered Baterai/Quail, or – Bird – as it was written way back. I asked if this was still served, alas, not. I mentioned the long passage of time without Kofta Anda and my last visit when they had run out. He advised that I should phone in and they would keep me some.

Who is this chap? Excellent service.

And so to Nan Factory, the latest moniker to adorn these premises. Spice Haven is no more yet I still see this name being advertised on a certain social medium. The dining room was empty making me even more surprised to see two tables in the main shop, both fully occupied. I recognised one of the two chaps behind the counter, but from where? He disappeared into the kitchen at the rear and so I engaged the remaining guy. On asking for a menu he held up a laminated sheet, the only one? On reading though the menu, it was clear that Curry was no longer a major feature. Grills and Pizza dominated, two Karahi at £3.99 puzzled. That was the only suggestion of – Curry. Having left the exterior signage to show – Lahori Karahi – I asked if they were still serving this. Order day before – was the reply. As I turned to depart so he told me I should visit their other shop.

Where is it?

Original Khyber on Kilmarnock Road.

That’s where I had seen the other chap, and possibly both of them!

With Curry not a priority at Nan Factory, I see no need to return, Original Khyber is certainly worth another visit.  We’ll see how long Nan Factory lasts at this locus.

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Glasgow – New Kismet Tandoori – A Post Lockdown Takeaway

Eleven Takeaways in the eleven years of Curry-Heute from New Kismet Tandoori (311 Drumry Rd, Drumchapel, Glasgow, G15 8PA) and the first since February last year. Despite being Hector’s local Takeaway, New Kismet was strictly speaking – out of bounds – for Bankies during much of Lockdown being a few metres over the West Dunbartonshire boundary.

With no need to cook this evening, and having recovered from the excesses of last week in Manchester, waiting another day for Curry seemed pointless, bring it on.

Desi Lamb (£6.80) with Special Rice (£3.00) was the Order, – without Peppers – the usual caveat. The serving chap stated that there would have been none anyway. I do not believe I have ever encountered the dreaded ballast added to a – Desi Curry.

The Bill

£10.00   a 20p charge for the poly bag?

It felt strange standing inside, hopefully the days of waiting outside for one’s Order have gone for good. 16.30 on a Friday, delivery time. New Kismet was being re-stocked with Oil, Mushrooms and fizzy drinks. I watched a hellish combination of Chips, Donner and Cheese being assembled, enough to feed a family. For whom, I knew not, it was either being collected or was going out for delivery. Hector was off, Takeaway in hand, no Mein Host so no complimentary Pakora for Hector this evening.

Don’t take a car to Drumry Roundabout between 16.30 and 17.00 if one is heading south. I would have been quicker walking home.

A reheat was considered, I decided to take a chance. The Special Rice featured Onions, Peas and Mushrooms, today I was 100% confident that the Mushrooms were fresh, as in not from a tin. These plastic containers are deceptive, the volume of Rice was easily enough for two, I had the same volume of Curry, but what was the ratio of Meat to Masala?

Desi Lamb

I counted sixteen pieces of Lamb, half of which would certainly need to be halved. Having arranged the Meat over the Rice, I noted the quantity of Masala left over, not that much, so once again, a great value Curry from New Kismet.

Strands of Coriander were embedded along with sliced green Chillies. The Viscous Masala was as good as one can expect in a – Curry. The structure had pedigree, but it’s all about the taste.

I have written oft about – The Clydebank Curry Taste – a feature of every establishment in this metropolitan area, as if one Chef had cooked the base for all Curry. This Desi Lamb certainly paid homage, but whatever makes me want to return to New Kismet, albeit sporadically, had something else: A New Kismet Taste?

The Spice was there, the Chillies enhanced this. The Seasoning was decidedly lower than the Hector idyll, however, a definite – Tang – ensured Flavour beyond that of simple Spice. The Meat was Tender but felt a bit dry at times, the extra Masala was therefore called into action.  As per the plan, the Vegetables in the Rice provided the required – Diversity. 

A New Kismet Taste, in the end I decided this Curry was certainly distinctive, but as in the last time I had the Desi Lamb, I have to ask, in what way is this – Desi? Still, to have this virtually on my doorstep is comforting, as was the eating. Bring it on!

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Manchester – Kabana – As You Like It

The train home tomorrow was chosen to permit one final lunchtime Manchester Curry. After this afternoon’s feast at Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1LQ England) even Hector has reached his limit.

Steve and Hector arrived at 13.40,  having let the lunchtime rush pass through. Seven diners, plus one thankfully quiet wean, were replaced by a group of students whilst we ate. Prices at Kabana must suit the student budget.

Rizwan, Mein Host, knew we would return, one visit per trip is never enough. Steve was going to have – something else – but even he could not resist the opperchancity to have a final Karahi Lamb (£5.30) on-the-bone – with Rice (£1.50) for Hector, a Chapatti (£0.80) for Steve.

Did you enjoy the Quails? – asked Rizwan. He had sent us to the sister shop – Kabana (Cheetham Hill) for their – Wednesday Special. This could well become a new ritual Curry.

My final Manchester Curry is usually with luggage. Instinctively, I went to the rear of the restaurant and squeezed on to the table. It was a squeeze. When Rizwan brought the Curry he moved the table, Steve’s turn to breathe in.

The – foliage – was brought to the table.

Karahi Lamb

What more can I say about this wondrous creation?

Enjoy the photos of the neat Curry, on Rice, and then each with the added foliage.

Karahi Lamb (on-the-bone plus – foliage)

Being hours earlier than our Monday visit, I knew the quantity would be a challenge. I took my time and savoured every mouthful. Steve was wiping his plate clean as I did a Meat count, still in double figures. OK, Rizwan spoils us.

I asked Steve for a few words:

The seat was uncomfortable.

It was, front of house in future.

A slightly different taste from the other day – he added – spicier, more intense.

Can the Karahi Lamb at Kabana actually get any better? What we have observed this week is that Steve’s Curry experiences with Chapattis have been different from mine with Rice. Rice definitely acts as a Flavour filter.

As I write this, I’m missing it already.  Steve, Dr. Stan, Howard, Neil, when is our next trip to Manchester-Bradford?

The Bill

£6.80 and £6.10 respectively.

The Aftermath

I had noted the football scarf adoring the photo on the far wall.

R.I.P. George Booth, a life too short.

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