Until yesterday, my research had not revealed Nosh-E-Jaan (Kamer Hatun, Kamer Hatun Cd. No: 5-A, 34435 Beyoglu/Istanbul, Türkiye). They advertise themselves as serving – Authentic Desi Cuisine – an expression used often in Curry-Heute, in fact that which Hector seeks above all.
Marg and Hector set off up the hill from Galata to Pera, in the direction of Taksim Square. Once again, another Curry House was found near our destination, this is how Istanbul works, it’s all functional linkages. If one wishes to purchase electrical fittings of any type, then the streets around our accommodation are where one comes. Glasgow, however, appears to have more Turkish Barbers than Istanbul, but then I’m hardly looking for them.
Arriving at Nosh-E-Jaan at 13.30, a group were sat near the doorway in the otherwise empty restaurant. Spartan – may describe the decor. I would come to regret choosing a seat adjacent to the TV, the soundbar in particular. Far too loud.
The menus were brought, all that I had found online held true, there was a choice of Mutton Karahi (65TL) or Beef Karahi (55TL). I would take advice. Marg was up for a Chicken Tikka Salad (30TL).
When the waiter came to take the Order, I told him I had only just established the existence of Nosh-E-Jaan. Once I had finished my spiel, he admitted his English was limited. He probably hadn’t understood a word. Let’s order.
The Salad was not available, Vegetable Samosa (25TL) became the fallback. It has been a while since Marg ordered Samosae. Using hand gestures, I asked which was recommended, the Mutton or the Beef. I was steered towards the Beef Karahi. A Butter Naan (15TL) and a – Water Big – (10TL) completed the Order.
People came and went, no more actual customers. The TV blared, a Turkish singer, nowhere near as good as the Erdem Ozkan Band we saw last night at Nardi’s Jazz Club (Galata).
*
*
*
The Samosae arrived first.
Vegetable Samosa
Four small Samosae accompanied by Ketchup, and thankfully, Raita. What’s with the Ketchup in Istanbul Curry Houses? Potato and Coriander were the fillings.
Very cute – was Marg’s first observation.
Indeed, they had a fine, golden hue and were gone in no time.
Very hot, a good spice level – Marg reported – an enjoyable dish. The Raita cools the mouth.
When Hector’s food arrived, there was a moment of both glee and disappointment. The Butter Naan was halved, not the end of the World. In what way was this a Naan? OK, it had risen ever so slightly, a few burnt blisters. It was far too thin, limp, I’ve had thicker Chapattis. Despite the negatives, Marg thought I might have to order another, it was that small. My 75p Naan was a disappointment, still, all was eaten.
A simple Salad of Cucumber and Onion was also brought to the table, Marg had most of this. I would take some Onion, just to add a bit of crunch to my Curry.
Beef Karahi
I immediately admired the pot, the garnish, the contents looked so appealing.
The pedigree of the Masala was self evident, it appeared to be Tomato-based. This was indeed Desi Cuisine. After yesterday’s strange experience at Karachi Darbar when I was unsure about what I was eating, this time, I decanted to the plate. I counted eight medium sized pieces of Meat. The pieces of – red – Vegetable mixed through the Masala had me concerned for a moment. Ah, Tomato, fine.
Big Spice, small seasoning, no chance of the – wow – today. The Meat was delightfully Soft, the Texture I admired greatly. It takes great skill to get Beef to this level of Tenderness and not let it turn to pulp. The Meat was excellent, I could have done with more. At these prices, let’s not complain. In terms of quantity, it was way more than The India Club (London) where I recommend sharing three portions between two. A Vegetable Side would have had me stuffed. I had considered ordering Aloo Matar (35TL) but was afraid of wasting food.
The limp Bread did not enhance the Curry. The depth of Flavour one looks for was not being revealed. Salt was on the table, not always the case. For those who permit themselves to add Salt, and thereby alter that which is presented, I would strongly suggest – add more Salt!
My mouth was on fire by the time I wiped the Masala residue from my plate. This Curry was good, but, one always hopes when visiting a new venue that something truly wonderful is going to be experienced. Not today. This does not mean that I did not enjoy what I ate, I just know it could have really hit the spot.
The Seasoning, or lack of, let the whole Curry down. Beef Stew – was almost going to be used as a description, too cruel. The Karahi, visually, had all the hallmarks of quality. This indeed was Desi Cuisine, remote from the blandness of the Mainstream.
The Bill
105.00TL (£5.55) Yes, this is accurate.
The Aftermath
Our waiter had issues with the card reader. Another chap, with more English and a second machine, evidently – Mein Host – sorted things. He asked the customary question.
The Calling Card was given, the Curry-Heute Website shown on the twin SIM Oppo. On seeing the length of the list of venues visited, he was well pleased at being added.
My enjoyment was relayed, however, I made it clear that – more Salt – was definitely required. Could I remember the word which means – the Salt brings out all the other Flavours? I would consult a well known and reliable Curry Blog later.
I did ask about the Masala. Tomato was confirmed, along with Onion and Garlic. No Ginger?
Of the two Istanbul Curry Houses visited, I would suggest that Nosh-E-Jaan has the greater potential to serve something that would make Hector go – Wow! Maybe I should have had the Mutton Karahi?
Later, standing in the abnormally lengthy queue to use the facilities at Ziba Bar, I was in conversation with a local. On the wall was a poster advertising a book. In the top right corner, there was another word which features oft in these pages – Umami!
I asked what it meant. He assured me it was not a Turkish word but had something to do with – taste. Indeed it has. Meaty – was the interpretation when this term was first encountered, however, it has evolved. The taboo associated with Monosodium Glutamate, appears to have been dropped, this – Salt – is back.
If that was coincidence, then what were the chances that the four digit pin for my Turkish SIM is the reverse of the numbers required to enter our apartment?
Kara! – it’s all about getting the correct Salt balance.
2022 Menu extracts
A young chap brought the menu. Marg was not ready for a large meal having had breakfast. The Mix Vegetable Pakora (50TL) would suffice. The Mutton and Beef section of the menu became Hector’s focal point. 
We took in the décor. The marble tiled floor was wiped twice during or stay. The stone walls were faux, polystyrene. I only managed one shot of the interior, the place was too full thereafter, no need to risk offending folk. 
I could see what I took to be strips of Potato in a freshly cooked, crispy batter. Marg declared strips of Onion. In time she identified both Vegetables. How was this Mix Vegetable? These are the standard two Vegetables in Pakora. The strips bemused, why had the Vegetables not been finely chopped? OK, Pakora as we expect it, is a British thing, probably even Scottish. The English have their – Bhaji. 
I took a Soupçon: Spicy and well Seasoned. Marg certainly enjoyed it:
The Butter Naan was a sensible size. Thinner than anticipated, the 
Large pieces of Mutton and the Coriander Topping stood out from the Thick Masala. I could see that Yoghurt had been added to the blended Masala. I was reasonably pleased with what I had been given, traces of Oil could be seen mixed through, only marginally on the periphery of the karahi as I have come to expect. I counted the Meat, eight, decent sized pieces. This was value for money.
On dipping the Naan, there was certainly a blast of pleasure, but no – wow. Perhaps a bit heavy on the – Creaminess. The Spice was there, Seasoning was not an issue. I was starting to feel a bit underwhelmed when I reevaluated the scene. This was certainly more than a Mainstream Karahi Gosht, what was I missing?
Now we’re talking, behold the classic grey-brown hue. The Masala looks stunning. 
This afternoon, a return to 
Seabass Malabar (£11.95) was expected to be as – Soupy – as the 
Like Pilau, but more intense flavours. 
A yellow Curry with Coconut, quite a departure from the Hector norm. At least there were no Big Blobs of Onion. The Fish was from Kerala, I was informed. There was just enough to cover the central area of Rice. The Fish was soft, far from rubbery. Maybe a tad more in the portion would be a suggestion. How big was the Seabass?
I had hot food before me, the Spice built steadily. Mein Host told me that in Kerala, this Curry would be served seriously Spicy, here it was toned down. Still, the nose was wiped, more than once. The Curry Leaves were picked out and set aside as they were encountered. Hector’s digestive system does not process these. 
Every grain of Rice on the plate was eaten. The Curry had been certainly enjoyed. I would have this again.
An hour or so later, the full taste of South Indian Curry was lingering on the palate. No Red Chillies, I conclude the Tamarind and Coconut must therefore play a significant role. Thankfully, Coconut in Curry does not always mean – 
The presentation was a major departure from what was expected. Three large Lamb Chops sat under a smothering of a Spinach Mash. Was this in fact a Curry? Did it matter? Nobody was going to be disappointed with this. 
Marg’s verdict:
This was the only choice of the three which actually resembled a traditional – Curry. It was therefore a justification for having the Rice. Potato and Peas were expected, the cooked Tomato wedges offered even more. The Masala resembled a blended Vegetable pulp as is the norm in such a creation. The fluffy Potatoes had absorbed some of the Flavours from the Masala. From somewhere, possibly the Peas, a slight sweetness was evident. 
Presented in a karahi, this could easily have been served sizzling on an iron platter. Dry – was promised, Dry was delivered. When the Head Waiter came to check on our progress I informed him:
Some of the Onions were cooked to black, how good did they taste? The Lamb puzzled, I studied it closely. There were no signs of skewer holes, so not Tandoori Lamb. My deduction, the Lamb had indeed been dry fried on the Tawa. This Meat did have cremated extremities. Every mouthful was going to be sheer joy, Meat that was giving Flavour, it had to, given the lack of an obvious Masala. The karahi was not just Lamb and Onions. Tomatoes were listed, again I deduce that these had been cooked down to create the fine coating over the Meat. This Dish was – Dry – but suitably – moist. It’s Soupy Masala we try to avoid, this creation was on another level. 
On scraping the last pieces of Onion from the base of the karahi, an extra blast of burnt offerings, wonderful. Usually I use my Naan/Chapatti to mop up the Masala, today I enjoyed the Meat in Bread. Did I mention how wonderful the Naan was? 
How I have missed the Ramadan Buffet at 
We were advised to arrive in good time before the 21.00 Buffet launch. The window table nearest the action was allocated. Cola (£2.50), and a sensibly priced bottle of Sparkling Water (£2.95), would complement the jugs of tap water consumed. Does all of Glasgow’s tap water taste of bleach, or is it just Nelson Street properties? 
We were in the queue when the 21.03 official start was rung out. Salads and Sauces were the first in order, as if … well Marg couldn’t resist the Fruit Salad, she also asked what the first Meaty Starter was – Chicken Nuggets – tee-hee. There were a few kids present this evening, one already in his pyjamas. 
The latter certainly intrigued. I shall have to search through my collection of Indian Cookbooks to find the recipe for these. Mashed Potato, and more. This is the joy of having access to such an array of Starters, one should always find something new and interesting. Chicken Chat/Tikka, I have always enjoyed these Indian versions of Nando’s. Why pour sauce over them to create – Curry? 
Lamb Bhuna, just look at that Masala. This was the classic 
Finally, Lamb on-the-bone, that this was last in line was probably a calculated decision. What could possibly follow 
So, up we went. There are no prizes for guessing what the ladies selected. Is Curry-Heute becoming sexist? Was it ever not? As predicted, Marg did not pass by the Keema Karela or Butter Chicken, Kath had the Chicken Tikka Masala. I pointed out the – must tries – to Graeme. He was game, and took Soupçons of the Haleem and Paye in addition to the other Men’s Curry. OK, I’ll stop this, until next time. 
Except, I found myself, camera in hand, at the Desserts. Gulab Jamun, Kath was nearly tempted, Gajar Halwa and Sweet Rice were the premium Desserts. Cheese Cake, two styles, proved irresistible to Hector. Graeme loves Jelly. Not content with all that sat before her, Marg ordered four scoops of Ice Cream (£3.95), to share, allegedly. 
Village
Having studied the fayre over the last couple of years, I wondered if there would be anything suitable for me at all. Karahi Gosht, to the best of my knowledge, has never featured at Swadish. Dare I report my empirical observation that the Meat element of the Menu is more suited to the fairer sex? Lots of classic Chicken Curry, not enough Lamb. I shall back up this statement with references to evenings I have dined with a dozen plus ladies: 
The A4 Menu was on the table, I was pleased to see two Lamb Mains, Marg got her selection in first: Braised Hydrabi Lamb Korma (£15.00) – Tender Scottish Lamb beautifully braised for hours, Cloves, Cinnamon, Brown Onion Sauce. The Korma as it should be. 
In Europe, abundant Rice would be inclusive, especially at these prices. This is the Merchant City. Our usual dining model is to share a Rice and Bread. Marg’s preferred Chapatti was not on the Menu. The descriptions of the meals, and online photos confirmed the Curry here would be – Soupy. We needed Rice, but how much? We asked Sanjeev, our waiter, to describe the size of a Rice portion.
The ornate Toppings were commensurate with the locale. I would rather have forgone these and paid a fiver less. 
Bone Marrow was the only clue given as to the base of the Shorva. Behold the Soupiness which Hector typically eschews, however, this was Curry. But which Curry?
Cloves and Cinnamon, I knew what was coming, I was not disappointed. The intensity of Flavour from the Shorva was taking the palate to the south of 
Here I can use – Masala – with confidence. Far less – Soupy – the sauce had a much thicker consistency, closer to our preference. Beneath the artistic Toppings and Masala, sat large pieces of Lamb, there was clearly a sufficient portion here also. The Soupçon of Masala which crossed the table wasn’t a huge departure from my own Curry. 
Later, there was a cake. 
More Curry, just what Hector needed after Saturday’s excess at 
Aloo Gobi, perfect. The Aloo Keema Mutter would suit Marg. The Chapli Kebabs were covered, what a pile, someone has been busy. We took our seats. The latest waiter took the Order. Two Chapli for me (aye right), a Naan was added also, plus two cans of Mango Rubicon. It was revealed that the Keema was – Chicken Mince. Marg was happy with this. 
A generous half went east, the remainder was quite sufficient. Hector would say that, this was not a Lamb Chop scenario. 
The round Naan was served whole. Thin, the way Marg prefers it, there were some blisters. No panhandle, still, a worthy Naan, all but a scrap would be eaten. Marg acknowledged that sharing this was a positive change from our usual Chapatti. 
Steaming hot, a good start. The peripheral Oil stood out as did the Coriander Topping. Sliced Green Chillies would soon be encountered, no issue with the Spice Level here, or the Seasoning. This is 
Hector, beware of the Black Cardamom – too late!
There’s dry and there’s – Dry. No peripheral Oil, I could not see much in the way of Masala. How many venues mistakenly serve this as approaching – Soup? The Potato pieces were substantial, plenty of Peas in there too. Marg could eat this every day. 
A very rich and flavoursome dish full of different textures, and a step above my favourite – Mince& Tatties. A wonderful meal.
Four days ago, a certain social medium flagged up that it is three years since 
Arriving at 14.45, the premises were seemingly empty, nobody front of house. Mein Host came out from the back kitchen, my Order was relayed. 
I took the opperchancity to photograph the far dining room in which I have yet to sit. As I studied the Takeaway Menu, I established that there was no price difference for dining in. My Naan was officially – Fresh Plain Nan. The Bread prices at Khyber Pass have always been realistic. 
A Salad and Raita were brought to the table. I asked for a jug of water, having seen no Sparkling Water in the fridges. The Salad was certainly better than – modest, the thin Raita had a Peppery kick. At this point I established that the – New Management – have been in place for four months. My question – what happened to the other guys? – fell on deaf ears. 
These premises have changed hands at least twice since I first visited – 
Lamb Karahi
At 
The Naan, served whole, was also huge. Despite the perforations, it had risen, probably due to the sheer amount of dough. I suspect some wholemeal flour had gotten into the dough mix. The Bread had risen to create a sufficient level of fluffiness.
I had hardly made a dent in the contents of the karahi. The Oil ran across the plate. This was not going to waste, especially at a time when cooking Oil is rapidly disappearing from our supermarket shelves. 
The first wipe of Oil immediately confirmed the efficacy of this Curry. The anticipated – Pepperiness – was there, and of course, the – Seasoning. The Masala shrouded the Meat, there wasn’t much room in the karahi for an excess. Tomato-based, this was the real deal, the only – red – that would have been added to the pot when cooking. Tomatoes, Green Chillies, Salt and Pepper cooked for hours, hopefully with Lamb on-the-bone in situ. Namkeen Karahi has such a distinctive, full on Flavour, the simplicity of its magnificence still baffles after all these years.
It would have been criminal to question the quantity at the point of serving. I took the remaining portion of, still hot, Namkeen Karahi up to the counter:
Update – August 2025
A train journey without wearing a mask, for Hector, today’s trip through from Glasgow was the first time in over two years there has been the choice. Today’s chosen venue for Curry was the tried, tested and always reliable 
Master Khan brought the latest edition of the 
The Naan, served whole, was enormous. It had the correct pan-handle shape to have come from a Tandoor. Lightly fired around the edges, it had risen significantly in the main body of the Bread. Only a minimal spread of Butter had been scored across the middle, a bit more would have been welcomed. Thankfully, no Garlic had been added. This was one mighty Naan, excellent, and no way would I manage more than half. 
The Meat was piled high in the karahi. Such was the volume, counting was unnecessary, if this wasn’t the half-kilo, it wasn’t far off. Given the restrictions of the karahi itself, the Masala was certainly the definition of Minimal. This is exactly how Hector seeks his Karahi. Pieces of Tomato pulp were mixed through the presumably Tomato-based Masala. From here was the core of the Flavour. The Masala on the Naan was truly delightful. Very little Oil was collecting on the base of the karahi, a few calories less.
The Tender Meat gave back the Spice, I took another photo at the halfway stage. Later with six decent sized pieces of Lamb still to go, I knew this would be a challenge. The Naan was abandoned, finish the Karahi. 
If hot food is what one is after, then one Glasgow Curry House guarantees it: 
When the food arrived, the Naan looked strange. Cut into five pieces, at least the pan-handle remained intact. With only the edges risen, this looked a fairly peely-wally Naan. There was a buttery sheen, not Garlic, and the Coriander topping was minimal. However, the Herb had been rolled inside. There was plenty of Coriander, and somehow, I would eat every piece of this Naan. 
Not burning the roof of one’s mouth was objective #1. One has to let the sizzling Oil calm down before the first, all important dip of the Bread. 
Ayaz observed my progress, Shery enquired if I needed anything more. What more could I require? The perfect Karahi Gosht in one of