Glasgow – Mother India’s Cafe – Saturday Brunch

Noon on a Saturday, how many of Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses are open north of the river? When Marg realised that we were heading to Mother India’s Cafe (1355 Argyle St, Glasgow, G3 8AD) she was on board, no way would she miss the opperchancity to have her favourite Butter Chicken (£6.00). Maggie was making her inaugural visit, for Clive, his third. Hector knows these things, a well known and reliable Curry Blog records all.

Maggie considered Butter Chicken, but when two Dishes were suggested, she jumped at Fish Pakora (£5.20) and Methi Keema Mutter (£5.95). Both Maggie and Marg would have Basmati Rice (£2.20), the Lemon Rice with Nuts has evidently been dropped from the Menu, else the Specials have yet to be restored.

Clive would have the Methi Keema Mutter also, along with Lamb Karahi (£6.20) and a Garlic Nan (£2.15). Hector’s choice was as predictable as ever: Machi Masala (£5.80) and Lamb Saag (£6.20) with a Paratha (£2.15). Litre bottles of both Still and Sparkling Water (£4.15) completed the Order. Having to pay for water without bubbles always riles, especially in Scotland.

At Mother India’s Cafe, the Tapas Portions tend to arrive when each individual Dish is ready. It was therefore a welcomed surprise when the Fish Pakora arrived first, as a Starter should.

Fish Pakora

The five large pieces of Pakora still managed to look incidental on the plate which also had two dips and a Modest Salad.

Plenty of fish in there – Clive assured us. With only five pieces, none was crossing the table, one day Hector must sample this, will that mean foregoing the Fish Curry?

The Nan was a good size, and appeared to be light and fluffy. Marg challenged that the Paratha was so, closer to a Chapatti she thought. I had to point out the – spiral – and the layering. However, this Wholemeal Paratha was unusually – Dry. The Butter filling had been fully absorbed, and it may well have been cooked without adding more. I’ve had better Parathas.

Machi Masala

This Dish has evolved over the years, the Masala has certainly become more – orange but remains delightfully Thick and Minimal, enough to cover the Fish. The standard Topping of Ginger Strips was accompanied by a raw Tomato cut in half. Had it been cooked in, the Tomato might have offered more.

The taste of well-Seasoned Fish and a decent level of Spice, the comparatively dry Paratha provided a counterpoint. I could eat this every day, yet as I reached the end I realised that I wouldn’t wish any more than had been served. This Curry is remarkably rich.

Butter Chicken

This was different! The abundant Creamy Masala was there, however, the Walnuts and blobs of Cream topping each of the three largish pieces of Chicken was a work of art. Marg only used half of her Rice so the Masala proved to be far from excessive.

Marg explained to Maggie that what makes the Butter Chicken here so special is the – kick. Creamy Chicken Curry – yes – bland – no.

Methi Keema Mutter

Suitably Dry, there was no sign of surplus Oil collecting on the periphery, a healthy Curry.

Clive had his with Bread, Maggie with Rice, the Naan may well have been the better option. Clive cooks this at home regularly, Maggie described how she came to appreciate the presence of Hector’s favourite Herb. She always enjoyed Clive’s Keema Mutter, but when when the Methi was incorporated, the experience moved up a level. Both enjoyed their choice today.

Lamb Karahi

Sat in the metal pot, this Curry looked inviting. Clive sought confirmation that I had had this previously. I explained why I stay clear of it. Over the years, waitresses have insisted the Capsicum is already in, Chefs have been unable to remove the offending Ballast.

Clive tipped the contents of the pot onto his plate, the Capsicum count was almost acceptable, again Tomato had been added as a garnish. The five large pieces of Meat that I could count sat well in the attractive Masala. Another winner.

Lamb Saag

It looked a bit wet on top, it’s all about what lay below. Six large pieces of Meat, I had to halve each, this was substantially more than Tapas. The Masala was exactly how I like my Saag/Palak, Masala with Herbs, not a mass of Herb-mush.

Having eaten about half of the Paratha, I lost interest, that was enough. Marg’s leftover Rice became attractive. I too tipped the contents of the pot, but on top of the Rice. In doing so I revealed large strands of Fresh Spinach, imaginative, an excellent touch.

The Spice Level surprised, appreciably more than on recent visits. The powerful Flavours from the Herbs overcame the lingering – Fishiness – on the palate. Sultry, Earthy Flavours from the Herbs complemented the distinctive Meaty Lamb-taste, Umami!

Not to have this would mean missing out. One day I’ll have to sample the Lamb Chops (£8.00) and revisit the South Indian Ginger Lamb (£6.50).

Marg, whose time was limited, sneaked in a Coffee before the rest of us had finished.

Four happy diners. Next time, the screens will have gone and tables restored to their former position. It’s two more days until Scotland drops the majority of the Covid restrictions, but not all.

The Bill

£59.50    We had eaten well.

The Aftermath

Every member of the front of house staff thanked us as we departed. Always appreciated.

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Glasgow – Ambala – Prawn Curry, don’t start me…

… you’re reading this, so I have. Prawn Curry, a waste of Prawns, a waste of money, has been Hector’s opinion for decades. Marg disagrees, (insert name)‘s favourite is Prawn Curry, so be it. A significant percentage of people also order Chicken Curry, Curry-Heute has many posts where the limitations of – Chicken in a Masala – has been reported. Anyway, back to today and the celebrated arrival of Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley in Glasgow for the first time since New Year 2020. What took so long? They arrived in Glasgow by boat, another first.

We were seven for Curry-Heute, Ambala (11 Forth St., Glasgow, Scotland, G41 2SP) was chosen as being a venue where I knew there would be enough Chefs on duty mid-afternoon to accommodate the predicted diversity of Dishes being ordered, and have them arrive together- hot! Normally, Hector would be calculating how many kilos of the excellent Lahori Chaska Lamb Karahi (£24.99) would be required, not today.

We arrived within seconds of each other at the appointed 14.00. On entering, only one table was occupied, moments later, another large family group arrived. Curry in the afternoon, is it catching on?

No Starters, at least sense was prevailing initially. After the truly amazing Lamb Chops enjoyed here last week, Hector was in the mood for more, but this time as a Curry – Lamb Chops Masala Karahi (£12.99). I know this is a cheat, Tandoori Chops, smothered in Masala works so well at International (Bradford). Yadgar and Karahi Palace, however, present their Lamb Chops Karahi with the Chops cooked as a – Curry, proper.

Mags was wondering why I was not having the aforementioned Karahi, she chose the Desi Karahi Gosht (£14.99) which may or may not be the Lahori Chaska with a different moniker. I must remember to ask Zaheer, Mein Host, for clarification. Marg returned to form and would have Keema Karahi (with Peas) (£9.99). Having informed Clive that – Dhansak – was not on the Menu, he took the opperchancity to explore the Fish Karahi (£11.99). An honourable choice, and a Dish not had here for some years. Hector has this seed planted.

I heard King Prawn Karahi (£17.99) being mentioned. Marg did comment on the seemingly inflated price. Nevertheless, Maggie, Craig and Yvonne all opted for the Prawn Curry.

On announcing my choice to the waiter who had looked after me last week, there was a virtual shake of the head. I suspect he knows the standards, his advice was to go for the Desi Curry. The kilo was ordered, Mags, sitting diagonally across from Hector, would save money by sharing.

Rice with Karahi, a no go area at Karahi Palace, but once upon a time, an acceptable ritual at Yadgar when the stomach capacity was greater. Hector was in the mood for Rice, Pilau with Peas (£2.99) was ordered for three (Maggie & Craig). NB: Prawn Curry with Rice – £19.98.

Marg and Yvonne each ordered a solitary Chapatti (£1.30. Then there was Clive, a Mince Paratha (£3.99), because he could. Keema with Fish? Only Clive does this. Mags would have the more sensible Aloo Paratha (£3.80), she needed to source her obligatory Potato from somewhere.

Bottles of ice-cold tap water were provided, no nonsense here.

The wait was lengthy. Yvonne realised that the Desi Lamb Karahi is prepared to order. We had catching up to do anyway, so not an issue. It was around 15.00 when the food appeared.

Mince Karahi with Peas

The Coriander and Ginger Strips sat prominently with the Peas protruding from the top of the mass of Mince. A Green Chilli sat on the periphery where normally the excess Oil would accumulate. No surplus Oil here, this was an excellent example of the genre, a moist Curry, not the lake as served at Lahore Kebab House (Whitechapel) a few weeks back.

With the exception of the abundant whole Green Chillies, cooked in, Marg ate the lot, an unusual occurrence. Hector’s plate would acquire a mound of Chillies. The Chapatti was modest in size so Marg had not over-filled on Bread:

A good helping with a high level of spice, and most enjoyable.

Mags’s Aloo Paratha was served on a huge wooden board, this was one mighty Paratha! Pieces would be offered, there was way more than the average person could manage.

Clive was taken aback by the temperature of his Mince Paratha, he couldn’t touch it initially.

Once his asbestos fingers came into action I spotted the telltale layer of Meat which Curry-Heute classes as – Donner-like. Individual grains of Mince are regarded as superior in these pages, however, Clive devours all types with vigour.

Fish Karahi

This certainly looked like a worthy Fish Karahi. Again, Coriander and Ginger Strips topped the Karahi, but here was a viscous Masala featuring seeds which I could not identify. With only a modicum of peripheral Oil, this looked most appealing.

Fish Karahi has been – hit & miss – over the years of visiting Ambala. A sense of – Fish – not always present. With the new Chef, this is definitely back on Hector’s radar.

Excellent, good level of spice – declared Clive, who may have been copying Marg’s homework – a sharp spiciness, very good, and plenty of it.

*

*

Desi Karahi Gosht

I am sticking to this moniker because the Masala was appreciably different from that previously experienced in the Lahori Chaska, this was – Shorva-esque. In addition to the Coriander and Ginger Strips, sliced, large Green Chillies featured.

Rice with Karahi, today, this proved to be the ideal accompaniment. The surprisingly thin Masala, soaked into the Basmati, creating truly Flavoursome Rice. This was way better than I had anticipated, however, the underlying Flavours were not. This took me way back to the earliest memory of Green Gates tasting Curry, and so bore little resemblance to the Lahori Chaska. Not as rich, but still something to enjoy.

The Lamb was on-the-bone. Hector, ever the gentleman, let Mags go first. Only at the end was it realised that she had carefully selected the majority of the boneless pieces. This was where Karahi with Rice became difficult, with Bread as the accompaniment, never a problem. The Lamb was suitably Tender, tasty, and gave no sense of being a stranger to the Masala. There was no need to count the Meat, two generous helpings each reduced the mound and led us to the end game. After you, Mags. Two well sated diners, Mag’s verdict:

I thought it was marvellous, the sauce and the spice, bravo to the chef. I could have eaten another half kilo.

That, I would like to have seen.

King Prawn Karahi

Here we go…

More Coriander and Ginger Strips, the orange Masala looked similar to that in the Fish Karahi. The Big Pot? I asked Yvonne to count the Prawns. Eight. So, eight Prawns in Sauce.

Maggie ate her Prawns but left the majority of the Masala. Three weeks ago, she succumbed to the bug that has spread across the planet during the last two years. Her taste buds have registered little of late. That her nose was running (Yvonne’s wouldn’t do that) was possibly the only effect which let Maggie know she was having Curry. Surely today could have been Vindaloo Day?

It made my nose run – admitted Maggie – (it) must have been spicy. Prawns not as succulent as I would have liked, a bit – Kalamari.

(Kalamari, rubbery Squid, the Ballast in an otherwise worthy Seafood Pasta.)

Craig, who usually orders a – Baby’s Curry – managed what was presented, but this was right on the cusp of his Spice Tolerance. He assured me that he enjoyed it, however the – hefty price – was his pointed remark.

Very good, but not worth the money – was Yvonne’s verdict, and now for Hector’s.

Prawn Curry, the easiest Curry to make, by far. Take a prepared Masala, throw in some Prawns, pre-cooked or otherwise, stir for a few minutes, serve. Farmfoods sell a bag of frozen Prawns for @£6.00 containing twenty plus King Prawns. What then is the wholesale price?

The kilo of Lamb Karahi at £24.99 was priced at approximately double what one pays the butcher for a kilo. Three portions of Prawn Curry were served from the equivalent of a little over one bag of Prawns. £53.97 therefore for just a bit more than a £6.00 bag of Prawns, a 900% markup. There’s more, below.

Everyone was enjoying their Curry, the anticipation of this being the reason why I nominated Ambala. Zaheer came over towards the end of our meal to acknowledge our presence. Positive noises were duly uttered, as they had to be.

Craig and Yvonne left to catch a train into the city centre.

Clive and Hector watched the three ladies order ice-cream. Why not let the pleasure of the Curry linger on the palate as long as possible?  Sweet over Savoury?  Again, I cannot compute.

The Bill

£129.01      £64.07 was for Ice Cream and Prawns.

The Aftermath

A license to print money – is how Craig described Prawn Curry when we assembled later.

Can someone explain why there is always an excess charge for Prawns on every menu? Just how can ordering a Prawn Curry gives others so much pleasure? The Masala becomes sweeter, some may enjoy this, Methi would cure that. Prawns and Masala, minimalist, hardly – Interesting. One should try Hector’s – Prawn Cocktail, that is a complex melange and has a – kick!

Fish Karahi, potentially so much more Flavour, yet these pages are full of examples where this was not achieved. And many venues are overcharging for – Fish – also. All this could drive you to ordering – Chicken Curry. Does this account for the many who do?

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Glasgow – Yadgar – The Gladiators Gourmandizing

It’s two months shy of two years since Dr. Stan last dined at Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP), that day we were five and demolished a mountain of food. It was Chapatti John, also present back in September 2019, who instigated our visit this afternoon, Hector made the arrangements. The customary text was sent – Please feed three. I also advised Shkoor, Mein Host, that we may not manage a comparable volume, this was duly noted.

We assembled either side of the arranged 15.00. There was time to take in the new decor from a different perspective. The redesign has been managed slowly, over the latter months of Lockdown. I put it to Shkoor that the recently arrived new tables should offer greater flexibility. As he related the policy of a slow, steady evolution, Shkoor placed a half-litre bottle of ice-cold Sparkling Water on the table. It is only eleven years since I first asked for this. John also joined the fizzy water party thus confirming the demand. Dr. Stan stuck with the Mango Rubicon, produced in the same plant as Irn Bru.

John asked what we were having. I had planted seeds but not made a specific order other than the Goshat Karahi. I had mentioned the ever popular Chapli Kebab and also – Fish. As reiterated earlier in the week when I – snacked – at Ambala, nothing comes close to Yadgar’s Fish Pakora, and as for the Spiced Haddock baked in foil, well … that’s a treat when available.

Naveed has yet to return after his travels, I must establish the names of the young chaps who have appeared during the time when Hector’s access to the Southside was restricted. Poppadoms, Dips then Spiced Onions were brought to the table. Don’t overdose on Poppadoms. Shkoor himself brought the first Starter, the thought of us as the three gladiators flashed through my mind:

Those who are about to dine, salute you!

Baked Sea Bass

At the point of presentation, all we knew for certain – this was not Haddock.

Four smaller Masala Fish, the Spices baked hard on to the surface. John thought he could see stripes suggesting Mackerel. My first intake generated an immediate – Wow! – followed by – Herring. The Spice, the Flavours, astonished. The intensity of Flavour, the – fishiness – was exactly what one looks for, we had to ask. Sea Bass – took us by surprise, never have we had Sea Bass in this league.

That’s my favourite dish out of an Indian to date – declared John. Dr. Stan had uttered his customary – Mmmm.

Three Fish, the fourth was divvied up, more pleasure.

Chicken Chapli Kebab

Two halved Chapli, one cannot visit Yadgar and not sample the Chapli. Even Spicier! – I noted. A completely different set of Flavours. The Chicken was incidental, it’s all about what was in the mix. A half each, plus a bit more, Shkoor was, as ever, doing us proud, and appeared to have taken my plea on board.

Strangely today, there was no Salad on the table, Pickled Chillies aside, this was not being missed.

There was a break, a much needed break. If the Mains come too soon there’s no chance of finishing. Initially, we had the place to ourselves. A family took the far away table, another family sat mid-room. I watched plates of Vegetable Biryani go to one table, Chicken Nuggets and Chips to the other. We used to have Vegetable Rice in our early days of dining at Yadgar, outstanding. A decade ago I could manage Karahi and Rice, no longer. I must come back and order Vegetable Biryani along with a portion of whatever the Curry on display happens to be.

A chap in a suit sat at the table adjacent to us. On seeing our pile of plates, he acknowledged us, and remarked about the quality of the Fayre served at Yadgar. He was having a Dessert whilst he waited for his Takeaway Order. Hopefully, this would be the only sight of Dessert today.

It was after 16.00 when the young chap brought a new set of plates and cutlery, followed by the Main Event.

Goshat Karahi

This is it, the Yadgarsignature Curry – so good that one does not visit the well too often. There’s – rich – and – richer – this is the – richest – of Karahi, I know I’ve had a few in my time. A hint of Creaminess reflects the Yoghurt added at the moment known only to Chef. Arshad was not seen today, his deputy, a quiet chap who always acknowledges, but never takes a bow, must have been responsible for what lay before us. Black Flecks of Pepper was the only other clue as to the contents of the Masala.

Ginger Strips and Coriander topped the Minimal Masala which clung to the Meat. The Lamb: medallions, leg of Lamb, Sucky Bones, and Lamb Chops! I encouraged John to get stuck in and wait for nobody. We were going to eat this, all of it. I served the Good Doctor, easier than moving the karahi.

The accompanying metal platter of Chapattis had arrived without discussion. What else would Chapatti John eat? Four, extra-large, super-thin Chapattis, a new style for Yadgar? Eating Curry without Rice or Bread seems just, wrong. For Hector, it is a medium to support the Masala, for John it’s the base of a Curry sandwich. John was unusually restrained, between us, Dr. Stan and I could only have eaten just over one Chapatti. John had failed to spot that there were four in the pile. A total misjudgement, Chapatti John left a Chapatti untouched. What a waste of food!

We were still dishing out the Lamb and Masala when our waiter brought a plate of Potato-Carrots-Peas – Alloo Gajar!

Alloo Gajar

Carrots were to the fore, followed by Peas. I made sure I secured a piece of Potato. When a Vegetable Curry is presented at Yadgar, it is always the icing on the cake. Usually it is Hector who leads the speculation as to how so much Flavour can be extracted from Vegetables, today it was John. Who knows what the base was for the Masala, well Chef does. We wondered if this Vegetable Curry was suitable for Vegetarians. (but not for long, see Update – below) Superb.

Meanwhile back on the Meat, John got his grumble in regarding Bones. His eating style makes Karahi on-the-bone more footery. Stan and I prefer it this way. As John extracted the Marrow with a utensil, I reminded him why we call them – Sucky Bones. Tender Meat, still requiring chewing, the joy of Lamb Chops cooked in the Masala, a totally different experience from Tandoori Chops.

Spice and Seasoning, the critical parameters, are never an issue here. There was a modest kick, nothing demanding, it’s therefore all about the Flavour, and this is where this venue’s Goshat Karahi wins. The Yadgar Taste – more prominent some days than others, today, the Karahi had it, as did the Alloo Gajar. Yum.

After our second round, we were down to the end game, the last Lamb Chop, a scraping of Viscous Masala, and next to no Oil. We would manage this.

And so we wiped the karahi and plate of the Vegetable side clean. Our waiter had asked if there was anything else we desired, Salad had been offered and declined. Our conclusion for today:

Salad must be the appetite killer.

There had to be an alliterative – G – that goes with – Gladiator – but, not guzzling I put to Shkoor, and certainly not gluttonous. Hector introduces:

The Gladiators Gourmandizing

I congratulated Shkoor on arranging the right amount of food.

The Bill

Our flat rate has not increased in the past two years, it should have. Paying the staff directly has been our means of walking out with heads held high. It all works out in the end.

The Aftermath

I managed to secure a few words from Dr. Stan:

Pretty wonderful, I’ve missed this. The fish was a wonderful starter, hard to believe it was Sea Bass. I enjoyed the Chapli, and the Curry had the right amount of spice.

Later, John concurred. The Goshat Karahi was up to the expected standard, the Sea Bass blew us away. Wonderful, indeed.

Update – Two days later

It is always pleasing when Restaurateurs contact Hector to keep one straight, it also confirms that some read these humble pages.

Shkoor texted Hector:

I can categorically assure you that we do not use any meat stock in our veggie dishes.

Now we know for sure, but are still left to speculate as to how the intensity of Flavour is achieved. As with the proprietors of AG Barr and the secret ingredients of Irn Bru, only the inner circle at Yadgar knows what goes into a Yadgar Curry.

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Glasgow – Ambala – No Curry-Heute!

Two weeks ago, due to chaotic opening times at The Downsman (Crawley), Hector was denied a portion of what, in these pages, has long been regarded as the best Lamb Chops in the nation. The notion could only be thwarted for so long.

Lamb Chops have only been had at Ambala (11 Forth St., Glasgow, Scotland, G41 2SP) once, back in 2018, on a particularity festive evening. Given the amount of work Zaheer, Mein Host does to also promote non-Curry Dishes on a certain social medium, the thought of coming here must have been subliminally planted.

I arrived at 14.30 to find one family group just finishing, two more sizeable groups would arrive during my stay. Is mid-afternoon dining becoming fashionable? The young waiter brought the latest Menu.

Whole Steam Roasted Lamb (£260.00) would have to wait for another day. Knowing what is planned for later in the week, I had already decided that I was not having Curry-Heute, two Starters was the plan. Lamb Chops – 4pcs – (£8.50) and Fish Pakora – 6-7 pcs – (£6.99) would be accompanied by a Mango Rubicon (£2.10) and a bottle of ice-cold tap water.

I watched the place fill, the waiter was being run ragged, help appeared, sorted. Hector had his water and fizzy drink, all was set.

Would both Starters arrive simultaneously, hopefully not. The Chops came first, accompanied by two Dips, yay.

Lamb Chops

I was expecting four, this looked like six, I counted four. These were seriously huge Lamb Chops. For Hector, and Marg, the perfect Tandoori Lamb Chop is cremated on the exterior, particularly around the bone shaft, but the Meat has to remain succulent. These four Chops were spot on, the seemingly extra piece of Meat dangling was an added pleasure. Burnt, succulent, Meaty, Umami! Akbar’s serve excellent Lamb Chops, these were possibly better, not possibly, definitely. These were the Lamb Chops I had dreamt about through Lockdown. Magnificent. There’s more.

The Salad on the platter added moments of Diversity/Distraction, the Chilli Dip too. The solitary Black Olive amused, the long, green Pickled Chilli was another treat. Hector was having fun. Thoughts of these Lamb Chops served as a Karahi – Lamb Chops Masala Karahi – (£12.99) came to mind. I’ve had this here once upon a time, again soon, please.

I was still enjoying my second Chop when the Fish Pakora arrived. As one knows from Yadgar, who serve the finest Fish Pakora on the planet, this is best enjoyed – piping hot – straight from the kitchen. Nothing was going to interfere with Hector and his enjoyment of his Lamb Chops.

Fish Pakora

I counted seven pieces, each a decent size, as I decanted the Fish Pakora to the metal platter which still had Salad remnants. The batter was a reddish-orange.

I feared the Pakora had cooled, it was still hot at the start. OK, it had lost its edge, but what a perfect partner to the Lamb Chops this would be. The Spicy batter was  (importantly) well Seasoned, the soft, white Fish beautifully fresh tasting. Haddock, what else could it have been? None of that rubbery nonsense here. The Dips added even more Flavour, but as they were cool, they became detrimental. Abandon Dips!

The waiter stopped to ask the customary question:

Everything good?

Yes, great Chops.

There was a knowing smile in response.

Hector was full. In the past, how have I eaten this quantity of food then gone on to eat a half kilo of Karahi? Out of practice, or have those days gone? I may find out in three days’ time.

The Bill

£17.59      I know where one can have Curry for less than that, here.

The Aftermath

Zaheer acknowledged me from the kitchen as I went past to wash my paws. The plan is to be back here mob handed next week. I wonder what I’ll have?

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Glasgow – Madras Cafe – More Molillee

A Saturday afternoon in the erstwhile Curry Capital, Hector had Kofta Anda at Sheerin Palace in mind. When Marg announced she was free, the opperchancity to keep a promise was realised. Sea Bass Molillee as served at Madras Cafe (82 Howard St., Glasgow G1 4EE) impressed earlier this month, very much a Marg Curry. There was also a desire to establish any flexibility in the comparatively minimalist menu.

We arrived at 14.15 and were given a window table. A large bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.75) was quickly arranged, served cold on this hot summer’s day. The same waiter would serve us throughout our visit. Lamb Punjabi (£10.95) is potentially the most interesting Curry in the Scotland’s Favourites section of the Menu, but – cooked with chunky mixed peppers – is an absolute turn off.

Lamb Rogan Josh (£11.95) is a customary fallback when dining at a Mainstream Restaurant. I asked that – no Peppers – be added, as in – I don’t want to see any. This was accepted, not an issue. So why, when I gave my spiel last time, was I led straight to the Fish? Had that not occurred, then I would not have been here today to let Marg experience the impressive Sea Bass Molillee (£15.00).

Marg accepted that she would need Rice, she opted for Coconut Rice (£3.50), Fried Rice with Jeera (£3.20) once again for Hector. Another reason for the speedy return was to sample the elusive – White Paratha – or Malabar Paratha (£2.95) – as is written.

Moments after the Order was placed, Spiced Onions and two Poppadoms were brought to the table. Excellent, and totally in keeping with another section of The Curry-Heute Campaign, just bring them to the table, no fuss, no charge. Spicy, tasty Onions, much appreciated.

Once again, the Cumin, if any, had been added sparingly to the Jeera Rice. Possibly the same Rice had Coconut sprinkled over it to satisfy the moniker. That we had ordered a Rice portion each was justified, certainly not enough to share.

The Malabar Paratha looked glorious, and was easily the largest of this type encountered to date. The magical swirl was present, the Flavour from the white flour was so much better than the standard Wholemeal Paratha. This was nearly ticking all of Hector’s boxes, however, there was a firmness that puzzled. Soft and spongy is how I have enjoyed these before, today’s was not like that. Close to the Hector idyll, not quite there, but still way better than a Wholemeal Paratha.

Lamb Rogan Josh

Topped with a sprinkling of Coriander, this looked like a Classic Curry. The Masala had a suitable viscosity and was not excessive. I counted the Meat on the plate, ten large pieces, each could be halved, a decent portion justifying the price.

When Curry is served in a soup plate what does one do with the Rice? Arranging the Meat and Masala on top of the Rice is the custom, this looks a bit weird. It means stirring Rice into the Curry as one eats, but it does leave the exposed parts for dipping the Bread.

The Lamb was super-soft, quality Meat. The Menu describes – intense heat – really? The Spice Level was far from testing, the seasoning was decidedly – low. The Tomato in the base sauce came across momentarily. Where was the Cumin blast from the Rice? That never happened, no seeds? This was Mainstream Curry, nothing distinctive, nothing dramatic. Did I enjoy it? Well, of course, but this does go a long way to confirming that Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses are in a different league.

Sea Bass Molillee

If anything this was an even larger portion than I was served last time. Two whole Fish sat smothered in the yellow, creamy, Masala, Marg’s Curry idyll. I watched Marg set aside two large, whole Green Chillies, these crossed the table. One therefore had the choice of eating this Curry with the full Chilli blast as I had recently done, else one could take it easy.

On accepting that the portion would defeat her, Marg left one Fish untouched, this would go home.

Lovely, flaky fish, surrounded in a sea of creamy, garlic, ginger sauce. I enjoyed the spicy kick which accompanied the dish, but avoided the many chillies. The Coconut Rice was a good addition. I ate a good half, looking forward to eating the rest at home.

(She’ll be lucky.)

The Bill

£40.65 No discount today, there is a scheme advertised on each table whereby one can save £5.00 on future visits. I didn’t examine this further.  Did I actually receive Jeera Rice?

The Aftermath

Chef Shabu did make an appearance during our visit to bid farewell to a couple, our waiter did chat with us briefly. Apparently a special Indian flour is used to make the Malabar Paratha. There is a video on a well known social medium showing Chef Shabu in action, it gives away no secrets.

Chicken Chettinad (£10.95) is on the Menu. I asked if Fish Chettinad could be served. Apparently it can be provided. I have missed Banana Leaf who serve a Creamy interpretation of Fish Chettinad. If anyone knows where in Partick they are moving to, please advise.

Update 2025

Madras Cafe is now Zaika Taal.

Madras Cafe may have moved to nearby Stockwell Street.

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Renfrew – Green Gates – On the way to the Peak of Excellence

On collecting Hector at Glasgow Airport, Marg announced she had made a booking for 20.30 at Green Gates (65 Ferry Rd, Renfrew PA4 8SH). One day, this will be on the route back to Clydebank, alas, the new river crossing is not due to be completed until 2024. By now, I thought I would be considering Green Gates as a – local – Curry House.

Once again, we were allocated the small table at the window. One day we’ll get to see the interior seating area, to be fair, it was busy. Within the hour, Green Gates would be empty then closed before the throng in the nearby pub could be tempted in by late night munchies. Gone are the days of Curry Houses being opened later than t’pub.

Green Gates’ Menu is not vast. To date I’ve had the Lamb Shank, Aloo Gobi, Mixed Vegetable and Lamb Rogan Josh, whilst Marg has had Butter Chicken, twice. None of the Fish Dishes appealed, too tame, whilst the description of the Karahi suggests I shouldn’t go there. Bhoona, Dhansak and Balti stood out in the – Old Favourites. Chickpeas I can tolerate, enjoy even, when part of a melange, so Lamb Balti (£10.95) for Hector and Chicken Chasni (£9.95) for Marg. Marg would have her usual Chapatti (£1.30), Mushroom Rice (£3.25) for Hector. It was good to see sensibly priced Rice after London.

The waitress asked if we were having Starters. £6.95 for Seekh Kebab? Either this is a meal or they’re having a laugh. No Starters. The request for – no Peppers – was duly recorded. Only a small bottle of Sparkling Water (£1.95) was available, Marg had this, Hector took the plunge and ordered a pint of lager (£3.95). Saturday night, let’s go wild.

On our first visit, we were presented with a Soupçon of Spicy Tomato Soup, tonight it was a Spinach Soup. Creamy, tasty, but sadly – tepid. It did warm up the taste-buds.

The limitations of the tiny table were foiled as the waiter tried to assemble the Order. I took what I considered to be enough Mushroom Rice and passed the remainder to Marg.

The Chapatti was not as large as served in our usual haunts on Glasgow’s Southside, Marg welcomed the Rice.

Lamb Balti

The Chickpeas were prominent in the karahi. As I decanted the Lamb and Chickpeas so the abundant Onions also became apparent. Finely chopped Onions are fine, here were the Big Blobs of half-cooked Onions for which Marg is usually the magnet. I could cope, and congratulated myself for ensuring the – no Peppers – that could have been disastrous.

The Meat count just reached double figures, the ratio of solids to Masala was favourable, this was Curry, not Soup. Tiny bits of orange (Carrots?) marked the presence of the promised – ground pickle. The fresh Mushrooms in the Rice added further Diversity, this meal had great potential.

The Spice Level was OK, not demanding, one Green Chilli sat proudly. The Seasoning appeared to vary, but when the Pickle kicked in, all the Flavours one could want were released. This was one very tasty Curry, as much Achari as Balti.

Biting into the biggest of Black Cardamoms was a bit of a shock. A stray piece of something – green – was set aside. If the – Pickle – was indeed – ground – then it wasn’t Lime rind, that left you know what. I wasn’t taking any chances.

The excessive Onion was the only negative in this Curry, however, I would certainly have it again, with two caveats next time.

Chicken Chasni

Oh no! Orange Soup! Well that’s the reaction this writer has to – Curry – of this nature. However, as much as Marg appreciates the wonder that is a Dry Karahi, she is just as happy to order a Creamy Curry, with – Chicken – too. Balance from Marg:

The sauce had a lovely sweet and sour flavour with a wee kick to distinguish it from a standard Creamy Curry. Rice would have been the better option.

Indeed, the surplus Masala was abandoned.

Mein Host approached the table as we were approaching the endgame to ask the customary question. As has become my custom of late, I gestured to the near empty plates. He understood.

Two satisfied customers.

Marg ordered an extra hot White Coffee (£2.50). The coffee and the accompanying mint were thoroughly enjoyed.

Excellent – said Marg.

The Bill

£33.85   Bier and Coffee, a Big Saturday night out.

The Aftermath

Lots of farewells as we left the near empty premises. It was difficult to tell if we had been recognised, three visits only. There shall be more, a pity the Renfrew Ferry doesn’t run later.

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Whitechapel – Needoo Grill – Worthy of further investigation

It is some five years since Curryspondent Neil made Hector aware of Needoo Grill (95 New Street, Whitechapel, London E1 1HH England). That was on the day of my first Whitechapel Curry at Lahore Kebab House. Tayyabs, around the corner from Needoo, subsequently impressed whereas Lahore One London did not. After my fourth visit to Lahore Kebab House earlier in the week, it was definitely time to try somewhere else.

Another source has many disparaging comments about Needoo Grill, some suggesting people only come here when Tayyabs is queued out, others commenting on the excessive use of Oil in the Curry. The mention of – Dry Lamb – was enough to make me take note.

Today, I had Steve for company. Our group actually peaked at thirteen yesterday, only one chose to join Hector for Curry-Heute.

A somewhat circuitous route took us to Whitechapel, the aftermath of Monday’s downpour which was nothing compared to Rheinland-Pfalz where there was devastation. Needoo Grill is only a short walk from the the tube station.  We arrived at 13.30.

Two doors and two flights of stairs, Hector went left but was led to the right. The room to the left sounded busier, it was difficult to tell how many were there, magic mirrors.

Needoo Grill is a significant step up from a Curry Cafe, the young chaps serving were buzzing about, keeping themselves busy. The Menu came in an instant, three Dips followed shortly. No – Dry Lamb. We both resorted to type: Karahi Gosht (£9.95) for Hector, Lamb Madras (£9.95) for Steve.

We both chose a Lahore Tandoori Paratha (£3.20) as the accompaniment. Sparkling Water was not available, I asked for a jug of tap water, request declined. Instead, a large bottle of Still Water was ordered. Ice aplenty followed.

I declined the offer of Poppadoms (£0.99) as is my norm. Steve decided he wanted two. In the end, he ate one. Despite one Dip looking particularly fierce, I resisted all temptation, true to myself.

When the waiter brought the Curry, he couldn’t tell them apart, hopefully, I have them the right way round. The Parathas were served in quarters, for once this did not annoy, they retained the appearance of being whole. Perhaps it is bits in a basket that really disturbs the Hector. Wholemeal, flaky, layered, soft, and signs of – the swirl – excellent Paratha.

Karahi Gosht

Coriander topped a distinctly authentic, blended Masala. The Oily sheen was forming, but not in any negative way. Karahi has Oil, this was in no way excessive. The Meat count was easily into double figures, large pieces too. This was the – Small – portion, for £16.95 one could have gone – Large. That would be a challenge.

The Spice Level was well pitched, no discussion about strength had been mentioned, this more than satisfied. Another caveat which features in the majority of Curry-Heute Blogs was never raised, I trusted this venue to get to right, no – nasty green mush – was present. A single Bay Leaf was the only solid encountered apart from the Lamb. The Seasoning was below the Hector idyll, however, this Karahi was still full of Flavour. This took me back in time, the old fashioned, Earthy tastes of years gone by, traditional, in other words. The Lamb was beautifully soft, the distinctive taste of the Lamb came across. There was the sense that this Karahi had been brewing for days. Very good, but lacking the – wow – was my observation.

A new waiter must have come on duty. He acknowledged our presence, appreciating chaps out for their – fix.

All was going well then Hector hit the wall. Eating this quantity of food so early in the day is not Hector’s style. The Lamb was far from chewy yet mastication was approaching the n’th term for every piece of Meat. It became clear that I had reached my limit, the man who can devour the half kilo was beaten. The new chap observed my struggle, another waiter asked if I wished it packed for Takeaway.

I should have had the Karahi Fish Masala! Even then, I suspect the quantity would have beaten me. Fish Karahi? Next time. Fish in this Masala could be outstanding. Then there’s the Methi Lamb (£9.95). I’ll definitely be back, Needoo should become my next Whitechapel project.

Meanwhile, across the table…

Lamb Madras

A slightly lighter shade of brown, and perhaps less Oil were the distinguishing features. Had I not been in my unusual predicament I would have asked for a dip of the Masala to verify a difference. Steve assured me early on that he found the Seasoning to be – OK – but then his tolerance is well below mine. Steve’s conclusion:

Meat was very tender, spicy enough. Tomato flavour, very good, but – he agreed it lacked the – wow!

The Bill

£31.53        The £3.25 for the bottle of water was ridiculous.

The Aftermath

The army of staff bade us farewell. The service, in terms of attention, was a standout feature of the visit.

 

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Whitechapel – Lahore Kebab House – Once upon a time

Four of us dining at Lahore Kebab House (2-10 Umberston St., Whitechapel, London, E1 1PY, England), a first. Jonathan and Lady Maggie joined Lord Clive and Hector on the trek to Whitechapel, not made easy by disrupted Underground services. Bus 15, never again.

We arrived at 13.30, the waiter acknowledged us in a manner suggesting recognition, Clive and I were here a few weeks ago. Then the Fish Curry (£9.75) was not available, hopefully today.

There had to be Seekh Kebab (£1.50). In northern parts, one might expect two for this price, in that London, this is the unit price. We were all having Seekh Kebab, Clive and Jonathan declared two each. To this, Maggie added a Chicken Samosa (£1.75), when will she learn? I did announce to all assembled that there is a well known and reliable Curry Blog which describes every time Maggie has failed to finish her Main Course due to overindulging in Starters. She suggested that the Samosas might become Takeaway.

Lahore Kebab House was decidedly more quiet than it was on our last (Sunday) visit. Our waiter was patient and actually suggested that the Masala Fish (£9.00) Starter, served in foil, might be a better option. Hector was having Fish Curry with Plain Rice (£4.25) to accompany. Maggie would have the same. Is this the most expensive Rice in a Curry Cafe in the UK?

As Maggie was about to recite the list of options to Clive, I suggested we cut to the chase – there must be a Dhansak. Actually, it’s not on the Menu, however, our waiter offered this without a blink of the eye. Lamb Dhansak (£9.75) was noted, along with a Keema Naan (£4.00). It came as no surprise when Jonathan ordered Keema Curry (£9.75) and a Tandoori Roti (£2.50). How can a Roti cost more than a Naan?

A Salad and Raita were presented. If there had only been two of use would we have received the same quantity? I believe so. Anyway, we were not here for Salad.

The Seekh Kebab were brought on a single platter, guess who now wished he had ordered two?

Seekh Kebab

That these have become – must have – is down to them being so well cooked. Moist and tasty, with a Spicy Blast, excellent.

Chicken Samosa

Evidently, I saw this fine pastry, whatever happened to it, I know not.

No sooner had we finished our Starters when the Mains began arriving, all the more reason to limit the quantity of Starters.

The Rice was piled high on the plate, Maggie thought this was to share until a second plate arrived. Lesson learned, a portion each is probably not required. The Roti was large, puffy even, one would certainly do the job.

The Keema Naan looked like a meal in itself. Large, very well stuffed, almost a winner but not in the World of Curry-Heute. The filling was a slab of Pink Meat, the sadly familiar – Donner-like – which Hector eschews. Clive was not put off, he devoured it in his customary way, after he had finished his Curry.

Fish Curry

When Clive ordered this back in May 2019, I described the Fish Curry as – The Best Fish Curry I have ever seen. I do differentiate between Curry and Karahi, expectations are different. Today’s offering was clearly not in the same class, too much Shorva, the hint of – Yoghurt – not there. It gets worse.

As seen on my visits to date, no other Curry has copious strips of Onions, so why this one? Additionally, there were two pieces of the offending – green mush – present. By the time I had decanted, I was not left with the Curry I had hoped for. At least I had Rice, Bread would have been a disaster.

The Spice Level was decent, the Seasoning seemed low which always puzzles in a Fish Curry. Of course it could have been a freshwater Fish. A big blast of Aniseed took me by surprise. Fortunately, as I ate so the Spice, Seasoning, and Fish Flavour steadily built, first impressions were wrong, taste wise. This was a good Fish Curry, but not that – something special – I had hoped for.

Maggie praised the Rice for not being sticky between wipes of her nose. She was having a different experience:

Fish had lots of sauce, bit of a kick, made my nose run. Lots of Fish, I’m sure there was coriander, cinnamon, in there, couldn’t taste them, too hot … gheeie.

Maggie’s leftover Shorva came my way, to mop up the remaining Rice. Yes, share a Rice portion.

Keema Curry

This was nothing like the Keema Curry which Clive enjoyed here six weeks ago. As with the Fish Curry, there was way to much Masala, an Oily Shorva at that. OK, if one is being consistent, then a Curry will be wetter than a Karahi, in the better establishments. However, a wet Keema always gets marked down.

A bit more sauce and oil than I would have expected – began Jonathan – with a rich flavour and a good, hot after-taste.

Lamb Dhansak

What an incredible amount of Meat! Once again, the Masala was in the same style as the Curry above, where were the Lentils? A Dhansak must surely have a thicker Masala? As Clive started eating so he suggested that the Lamb tasted as if the preparation had started days ago. Twenty plus – was his Meat count, surely a record for a standard portion? It sounded as though he had the most impressive Curry served to our table.

Overall, excellent – remarked Clive – but not many lentils were harmed in the making of this Dhansak. Lots of Lamb, Keema Naan was excellent, full of Keema.

The Bill

£63.25   We were asked for cash, the restaurant was running short. Between us, we managed it, just.

Only £1.00 was charged for the Tandoori Roti which Jonathan remarked he had seen three prices for on the various menus. The Dhansak was also listed as a Karahi. What did Clive receive?

The Aftermath

Our departure was low key. Another long bus journey took us to Hackney Wick. En route, I decided to give Curryspondent Neil’s other Whitechapel suggestion when I return to the city on Thursday. Watch out for a review of – Needoo Grill.

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Brighton – Curry Leaf Cafe – Brighton Lanes

When Hector arrived in Crawley this morning, he found Lord Clive studying possible places at which to pass the time on Wednesday when we’ll be mob handed, and before the outrageously wonderful UnBarred Brewery opens at 16.00. Curry Leaf Cafe – Brighton Lanes (60 Ship St., Brighton BN1 1AE England) popped up on his search, Craft Bier and Curry at the same venue? This had to be explored.

With Jonathan also in Crawley this week, the three of us headed down to the coast. Curry Leaf Cafe was due to close for a two hour break at 15.00, we entered at 14.30, hopefully at least a Starter might be offered. Three pints of Burning Sky’s Session IPA, Arise, at a modest 4.4%, were ordered whilst we studied the Lunch Menu. Does this mean there’s a Main Menu?

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Goan Pork Ribs (£6.95) appeared to fit the bill. We were after a snack, not a main meal. The waitress, who struggled with two Scottish dialects, advised that the portion was small. This puzzled, Pork is the cheapest of Meat. We were invited to consider the Thali Platters.

Thali is something I tend to dismiss, usually I am after my – dinner. This afternoon, a glorified – snack – would suit us perfectly. Keeping things light, I chose the Aloo Gobi Masala (£11.95) whilst Clive and Jonathan both went for Lamb Rogan Josh (£13.95).

I had time to take in the surroundings, one wonders as to the make up of the clientele. How many come for drinks, how many for food? That only two of the four named Craft Beers on the menu were available today may have frustrated some.

When the waitress brought the first of the metal Thali trays, she announced that Chef had made an error, she was temporarily a Lamb short. There was a portion of  Chicken Makhani however, and so she placed this on the table for us to share. Nice touch.

Thali – Aloo Gobi Masala

Where do you start?

Some bits were hot, others not, so having identified what was what, eat the warm stuff first.

There were three pieces of Vegetable Pakora and plenty of Dips to choose from. The Pakora seemed twice fried but was very tasty. I then dipped a piece of Poppadom into the Dip which was not listed on the Menu – a puréed Lime Pickle. This was astonishing. I looked over to Jonathan to establish if he had got there yet, oh yes. If the Aloo Gobi was bland, this would certainly liven it up. Having now reached the Naan, I tried some of the Panchratna Dal. I was glad to find it warm with an Earthy Flavour. This was another plus.

Eating directly from the tray still felt a bit strange yet I’ll happily eat from a karahi. The so-called Biriyani Rice was there, a decent portion for what I was still approaching as a – snack. The Aloo Jeera also had Peas and given the main part of my Thali was the Potato-Cauliflower, I decided that combining these might be the way forward. Decisions.

The Aloo Gobi was topped with what I took to be fresh Curry Leaves. Green Beans were also a listed ingredient, so quite a Vegetable Curry. With plenty of solids packed into what was a Tapas metal bowl, the blended Masala would not be excessive.

The Spice was at a decent level, the Seasoning was – low – however, being my first Curry since the – assalt – (sic) at Karahi Palace two days ago, nothing was going to register. The Texture of the three vegetables was spot on, the Cauliflower in particular, retained a bit of crunch, it’s too easy to serve pulp here. The encounter with a Clove was another positive, even more Flavour. With the extra Potato and some of the Daal, the reality was dawning, my meal was far from being a snack.

Jonathan had started on the Chicken Makhani, again positive sounds from across the table. I took a piece of the Chicken and minimal Creamy Masala, Sweeter, as expected. The Texture of the Chicken was excellent, Marg, who loves Creamy Curry, would have appreciated this.

Thali – Lamb Rogan Josh

At least six pieces of Meat are visible in the photo, in the end, Jonathan counted nine, so this was far from being – Tapas. The blended Masala again looked to be a worthy accompaniment. Both chaps thoroughly enjoyed their selection. It looks as though I’ll have to try the Rogan Josh next time.

The diversity, of Textures and Flavours, plus the – shock – of the Lime Pickle, this was simply an outstanding array of Dishes, Dips and Bread. Well done, Clive, for discovering this place.

The Bill

£58.25    A disgraceful £19.50 spent on Bier, and we came for a – snack.

The Aftermath

Needless to say, it was well after the 15.00 closing time when we departed. That we were not rushed was appreciated. The Calling Card was given, was its purpose understood?

I note there is another branch in Brighton at Kemptown, note, is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – It’s Coming On

Spending a July Saturday afternoon in Glasgow still feels strange. Crossing the Clyde felt even stranger, the new banking complex is certainly – coming on. How many more quiet visits will there be to Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) before the hordes discover this humble venue?

Arriving at 14.00, a hungry Hector felt a Chilli and Coriander Naan was due for a change. Karahi Lamb (£9.00) remains the constant, a return to Punjabi Fayre after the less than impressive experiences earlier in the week on the Ayrshire Coast.

A couple of neds were in Hector’s preferred spot, waiting for Takeaway, this meant the table at the door for Hector. For once the open door permitted fresh air and not the midwinter draught.

The new chap took the Order. Salad and Sauce were offered, declined, a jug of Water secured. Chef Rashid set about working his magic.

Neds? Well that’s how I shall describe yoofs (sic) who spill the contents of their Kebap on the floor, then scoop them up and walk on as if this was the norm.

Ayaz, Mein Host invited me to take my usual table, Hector was settled. Two couples entered, sat at the window table and consulted the Menu. Moments later they departed. I had to ask the waiter why they had just walked out of one of Glasgow’s finest Curry Houses. Vegetarians, they were at the wrong movie.

The Wrong Naan

I could have sent it back, but why erode the margins of profit for a business at this difficult time? The Naan was dripping in Butter, there was no sign of the Chillies. Hector had been give the more common Garlic & Coriander Naan. With perforations, it had been prevented from rising in the centre. Knowing that I would manage about half, the puffy, well fired rim, would become my area of enjoyment.

Karahi Lamb

Ah, the Toppings! It’s easy to take these for granted, but when there’s no – foliage – one is missing out on that which gives a Karahi that extra something. Ginger Strips, Coriander, and Green Chillies sliced lengthwise, Mmmmm.

The Meat was piled high, there’s no need to count, the portion is always substantial. I dug through the Thick Masala Mash to find the Oil which had collected on the base of the karahi. The first dip of Naan was a fine example of the self-fulfilling prophecy. Garlic, the Garlic from the Naan dominated, it distorted the anticipated Flavours, so it goes. This is why I believe that Garlic Naan is best avoided, unless, this is the Flavour one seeks. At Karahi Palace there is so much more, by carefully selecting my Bread, I got back on course. Rashid knows I like – extra Seasoning – today was a test, this Karahi was high on the Erlangen Scale. For those who need a prompt to understand this reference, click on this link.

Sucky Bones, and so, so Tender Meat, joy of joys, once more. How I have enjoyed this on so many visits, for further confirmation read here, here, and here.

The Bill

£12.00   It looks as though there has been a price increase.

The Aftermath

You’re on your own today – observed the waiter.

He’s new, he’ll become used to it.

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