Glasgow – Ambala – The Wrong Curry, or was it…

Curry with Marg on a Saturday afternoon in Glasgow? Unheard of. Knowing my habits, all of them, Marg knew that her best opperchancity for food today was to join Hector. It was time for a change from the currently lauded DumPukht Lahori. Marg has yet to visit Basharat G’z but they do not open at present until 16.00. Hector had other plans for 16.00. Yadgar are still operating on a Takeaway basis only. Ambala Deli Bar (11 Forth St., Glasgow, Scotland, G41 2SP) was overdue a return visit.

Marg’s hockey commitment ended at 14.00, we agreed to rendezvous at Ambala. The new frontage shows that the – Deli Bar – moniker has been dropped. The interior decoration has also been toned down a bit, the place remains shiny bright.

One window table was occupied when I entered, the waitress recognised me. I waited until she was free and confirmed I could choose my own table at the opposite end of the room. She wore a mask under her chin, as so many people do, a fashion accessory, totally useless. No sanitising hand-wash was spotted. There is a general level of inconsistency across the land about operating procedures at this time.

A welcomed bottle of ice cold tap water was provided. I told the waitress I would wait for Marg’s arrival before ordering. This gave me time to study the Menu in depth. Ojhri Curry (£8.99)? I had to look this up. Ah, Tripe. £2.10 for a can of Mango Rubicon? A bit steep.

The once magnificent – Handi – is still inscribed on the window but has not been on the Menu for years. Its replacement, the Lahori Chaska Lamb Karahi has not delivered the – Wow – and at £15.99 for the half kilo, ouch. I considered the Fish Karahi (£11.99) but decided to give the Desi Lamb Karahi (£10.99) another chance. A Plain Naan (£2.40) would accompany.

Three other tables were occupied by the time Marg arrived at 14.20. Marg chose her fallback Keema Karahi (£9.50) with a Chapatti (£1.30). We were ready. The waitress took Marg’s order then looked at me. She realised she needed her pad so went off to fetch it. Marg was told – no Chapatti – and was offered a Roti (£1.20) instead.

I asked for the Desi Lamb Karahi and was asked if I wanted the half kilo. I pointed to the Menu and clearly stated – the standard portion. Having encountered Hector before, I deduce she was used to me ordering off-menu, enquiring about the Handi etc. The Plain Naan was confirmed.

The two ladies sitting opposite shared a Mix Grill (£16.99), they were having fun. A Keema and a Naan were set at the table round the corner from my spot. Ambala was slowly filling this Saturday afternoon.

When the large, flat karahi was brought to the table, I knew that this was way more than the standard portion. Ahmed, Mein Host, has been more than generous to Hector in the past, but there was no sign of him today. Unless someone brings Hector a Chicken Curry, why make a fuss, better to eat what arrives.

The difference between a Chapatti and a Roti is marginal, the latter tend towards becoming – crispy – as they cool. Why were both not available? This Wholemeal Roti was standard fayre. The Naan arrived in four pieces, I should have remembered to ask for it to be served – whole. Light and fluffy, this was a decent Naan. In the end I would only manage half.

Lahori Chaska Lamb Karahi

Note the title, this is not what Hector ordered, and as it transpired, there would be no complaint. As I would tell the dippy waitress, – this is the best Curry I have had at Ambala in years. Hopefully this comment went back to the kitchen.

The sheer mass of Curry on the karahi took me aback. Count the Meat, why? At other venues one wonders how – the half kilo – is determined. There was no such concern here. Topped with a liberal sprinkling of Fresh Coriander and Ginger Strips, slices of large Green Chillies stood out in the Masala. The abundance of seeds suggested the Masala base was Tomato. Oil was separating across the karahi, for some this can be off-putting, for Hector, this was a heavenly sight.

The first dip of the Naan into the Masala blew me away. Wow! Wow! And thrice – Wow! A Buttery Flavour overlay the melange of Spice and Herbs, this Masala had everything. In recent months I have sung the praises of the Lahori Karahi served at DumPukht Lahori (Glasgow). In Scotland, only DumPukht and Rustom Restaurant (Edinburgh) serve a Karahi Gosht in this style. In Glasgow, Yadgar and Karahi Palace have their own superb interpretations. Today’s Curry, I class as being in the Manchester style.

Notionally – on-the-bone – there was only one large bone on the karahi, and it was a Sucky one! The Meat was simply beautiful, it sat there, waiting to be devoured. Calm, Hector, take your time. The Curry had arrived at a blisteringly hot temperature, there was no fear about eating cold food.

This was one of those very rare exceptional Curry experiences, a moment of synergy where everything was better than everything else. And I didn’t order it. I was left to speculate as to how this exceptional Karahi Gosht came to be. A new Chef? Is this actually the fabled – Handi – restored? Once this is posted, I shall email Mein Host, watch this space for an update.

Keema Karahi

Topped with Fresh Coriander and Ginger Strips, this Keema was definitely at the correct end of the scale of dryness. The Keema looked dark and Herb-rich. Only a slight residue of Oil collected on the margins of the mass of Mince. This looked quite a plateful.

This has a kick – was Marg’s opening remark. We missed out on that statement last Saturday at DumPukht. Again, with some slices of the large Green Chillies, the Spice Level may well have been beyond the – bland.

I expected Potatoes – was Marg’s next observation. Having paid no attention to the options at the time of ordering, I can now ask why Marg was not offered the choice of Peas or Potato, or both? Aloo Keema Mutter is Marg’s favourite Curry.

A lovely flavour, a real good kick. Very filling, the Roti was hot and crispy.

Having finished the Roti, I expected Marg to take a piece of Naan. Instead, she drew a figurative line across the plate, Marg was full. With two pieces of Naan remaining and around six pieces of Lamb, including the Sucky Bone, I too decided to call a halt. My coefficient of pleasure had been maximised, why risk coming off the plateau? We had the car, the Takeaway option was the sensible course of action.

The Bill

£29.09 £15.99 of this was the half kilo. The full kilo at £24.99 is a much more sensible option. I would still describe today’s half kilo as – generous.

The Aftermath

The staff were busy dealing with the impressive number of customers as we departed. Saturday afternoon Curry? It’ll never catch on.

Update

Sunday afternoon time to reheat the Soupçon of Keema Karahi and Lahori Chaska Lamb Karahi. The latter was every bit as good as it was yesterday. This, however, was my first sampling of the Keema. Again – Wow! Marg was right about the Spice Level, the Seasoning was also a la Hector – brave. The intensity of Flavour astonished. Now imagine it with Potatoes and/or Peas.

Something has happened at Ambala, they more than deserve to retain their photo on the – About – page on Curry-Heute. Only a handful of venues in Glasgow can serve Curry of this quality.

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