Glasgow – Green Gates Cafe – Eat Out to Help Out

Posted on August 17, 2020 by Hector

Hector dining in the Merchant City? It is nearly three years since Hector and Marg dined at The Dhabba, by invitation. Three new venues have opened in that time, Madha was reviewed in 2018, Swadish will have to wait. Tonight it is Green Gates Cafe (24 Candleriggs, Merchant City, Glasgow G1 1LD) following on from last week’s most enjoyable return to Green Gates (Renfrew). On our first visit to Green Gates, the staff told us of their plan to open a second restaurant, Gibson Street was mentioned, that would have completed Hector’s Curry Circle. Instead, it’s Candleriggs which may now have more Curry Houses than Gibson St. had back in its heyday.

I phoned to make a booking just in case the Candleriggs Cafe was going to be as busy as the mother restaurant was last week. My bid for 19.00 was accepted. We arrived a few minutes after.

Having used the hand gel at the door, we were greeted and asked to wait momentarily in the seated area to the immediate left. The premises are decidedly linear, tables down the right, bar on the left. I sneaked a photo of what was a busy restaurant for a Monday night, but then, how many of us were out for an extraordinary Monday night Curry courtesy of the Eat Out to Help Out scheme? Our table was the last on the right, Marg had the view of the restaurant, I could watch the activity in the kitchen.

All the serving staff wore face coverings, the sign in sheet was brought to the table. It seemed like a good idea to use our own gel having used the communal pen. Who always puts gel on their elbows? People initially laughed at my ritual, now they see the sense.

Two menus were brought, the – Tandoori & Healthy Menu – raised a smile. What? No gallons of Oil? The Main Menu has a section labelled – Curries – there’s a word the reader will struggle to otherwise find in Curry-Heute. Only the two Lamb Dishes: Lamb Kadhai (£11.95) and Rara Gosht (£11.95), what if they both featured the evil Capsicum, I would have to ask.

Having had the Butter Chicken (£10.95) at Renfrew last week, Marg was up for something different. Marg too found the Menu to be limited and so announced two Starters and no Main Course as her plan for the evening. Marg reckoned that she has not had Vegetable Pakora for some time, I assured her that it can be made at home, anytime. Veg Pakora (£5.50) it would be and Lamb Chops.

If Marg thought she was going to order Lamb Chops and not give me one she was very much mistaken. How many in a portion? Three has  sadly become the standard. I suggested Marg take advantage of the – Tapas – portion, the Rara Gosht (£7.95) – small – came into play. However, the seed had been planted, Lagan Ki Chops (£8.95), Hector would have his Lamb Chops. Note the plural, also the price is double that charged at Akbar’s (Charing Cross).

Readers in Bradford should skip this paragraph to avoid apoplexy, those in Aberdoom may miss the point. A Tandoori Roti (£2.50) for Marg and a Naan (£2.95) would complete the food order.  £2.50, for one Roti…

Just the one? – Hector is often asked in many a Glasgow Curry Cafe.

A Roti, it’s flour and water!

The order was taken for the litre bottle of Sparkling Water (£4.00), the young chap serving then admitted he could not answer my crucial question regarding the Lamb Kadhai, today was his first day. Mein Host stepped in.

On asking if the Lamb Kadhai had any Capsicum, green, yellow, or red Peppers, Hector was covering all eventualities, Marg jumped in with – it doesn’t matter if they are blended into the sauce…

What?

I was assured that none were present, Peppers were not used. The perfect answer. Hector will continue the fight to have this contaminant erased from all Curry recipes.

As we took our seats, I had noticed that a young girl had a little pot of (Spicy?) Tomato Soup before her. Hector Holmes deduced, wrongly as it turned out, that this complimentary offering which features at Green Gates (Renfrew) would be forthcoming. The complimentary Poppadoms and Spiced Onions which also featured last week in Renfrew did not appear either. That’ll be the Merchant City then.

The goblets, which are also a feature of Green Gates (Renfrew), were again on the table. This was Marg’s preferred vessel for the Sparkling Water.

Veg Pakora

Five pieces, a £ a piece, ouch. The garnish was accompanied by a Spicy Sauce more suitable for the Lamb Chops, we swopped. One piece came my way. I devoured it quickly, the Lamb Chops were waiting and so I did not study the composition. Marg mentioned – Cauliflower and Potato – which I challenged. Cauliflower in Vegetable Pakora? Not impossible, unlikely in a mix.

Quite filling, and doughy – was Marg’s verdict.

No Gram Flour, no Pakora.

Lagan Ki Chops

Three Lamb Chops, four is always better, someone has to lose out when sharing. The Chops were appreciably larger than the norm, even Akbar’s I’ll admit. Well cremated, Spiced and still succulent. Great Lamb Chops, – four would have been better. This may become a new Curry-Heute mantra.

The garnish is worth a comment. Marg took the Mint Sauce, not an accompaniment Hector would ever have with Lamb Chops, then wondered if it was Mint. Did it have Spinach? The Rice baffled, certainly not Basmati, maybe not even Rice, Barley was mooted. More Olives please, one is certainly never enough. Have I mentioned Lamb Chops at Akbar’s? … but then they sneak in Capsicum with the garnish.

For the record, we were asked by two different staff if we were enjoying our Starters.

Hard Acts To Follow

In recent Glasgow outings, Hector has had some outstanding Curry. Karahi Gosht is regarded as the – King of Curry – in Curry-Heute. DumPukht Lahori has been championed throughout Lockdown. Ambala are now serving up a Karahi Gosht which exceeds all previous expectations. Hector has been spoiled of late and so is trying to alternate Desi Curry with the – Mainstream, even Hector cannot live by Karahi alone.

The Naan was presented whole, always a plus. Marg remarked on the buttery sheen, it wasn’t Garlic, thankfully. Light and Fluffy, with suitable burnt blisters, Marg took a piece and said – Crispy. Maybe that bit, for Hector this was the perfect Naan. All but a tiny scrap was eaten, a sensible size then.

With the appearance of having Wholemeal Flour used in its creation, the Tandoori Roti was substantial in size and girth. Marg made short work of the Roti before coming to help out with the Naan:

Very crispy, and a good size for the portion (of Curry).

Lamb Kadhai

Served in a black kadhai/karahi, Ginger Strips and the tiniest sprinkling of finely chopped Coriander topped the Masala. The Oil was already collecting around the periphery of the kadhai, so a Curry certainly not from the – Healthy Menu. (smiley emoticon understood)

The blended Masala looked to be fairly standard in appearance, no mysterious Seeds to interpret. Eight large pieces of Meat were present, four of these would be halved, a decent portion.

The first dip of the Naan into the Masala provoked an unusual reaction, an – Oh!

This was different, unlike anything I have ever tasted, and thankfully nothing like my one and only Curry served a few years back at nearby Obsession of India. This Curry wasn’t nasty, it would just take a few mouthfuls to adjust to.

I decided it was – Clove – which was the dominant Flavour in this Curry. It is Cloves which give the Desi Curry served in Manchester the Flavour that relates to that city. There was nothing subtle about this Lamb Kadhai, this was – in your face. The taste-buds were working overtime to discern other Flavours. A sense of – smokiness – made me think – Smoked Cloves. Perhaps Chef, in the classic South Indian style of preparing the Spices, had dry fried them, to excess? Had the Masala been burnt? In time, Tomatoes came through. At Green Gates (Renfrew) last week I particularly enjoyed the reduced Masala, this was nowhere near as good. I managed not to bite into the solitary Green Cardamom. Strands of a Herb were encountered towards the base of the kadhai, my turn to speculate about the presence of Spinach. Clearly, it was not just – Cloves – which had given this Curry such a powerful and distinctive Flavour.

The Meat was certainly up to standard in terms of Texture. Given the limited choice of Lamb Dishes on the Menu, I would deduce that the Meat and Masala were not strangers. Bread and Masala alternated with Bread and Meat, I thoroughly enjoyed the Lamb.

New experiences are what trying new restaurants is all about, else I would be spending the next few months jumping between Ambala and DumPukht Lahori with the monthly visit to Karahi Palace inserted in between. When does Yadgar re-open as a Restaurant? I ate the lot, the palate had adjusted, in time I had to admit to quite enjoying this strange Curry. The Lamb Kadhai was far from being horrible, but would never make me want to order it again. See the aforementioned venues for better, way better.

Rara Gosht

Topped with Coriander leaves and stems, this is a Curry first encountered years ago at The Downsman (Crawley), a pub/restaurant which is thankfully open again after their enforced individual Lockdown. A mixture of Lamb and Keema, a Curry Marg should have more often, she loves – Mince.

The Rara Gosht was served in a familiar – bucket – used for Mains, this was the – small. OK, it wasn’t filled to the brim and the geometry was such that nearly the same quantity again could have been accommodated. This proved to be the exact quantity which Marg can eat after a Starter, so the plan worked.

Presented in the ideal Keema-style, the Masala was minimal in the extreme, there was no surplus Oil, the – Healthy – option. A piece of Lamb crossed the table, none of whatever Masala was present accompanied it. Hector’s taste-buds registered zilch, no chance during the Kadhai. Marg was not in raptures, but having had Hector’s usual preference for – on-the-bone – thrust upon her in recent outings, she enjoyed the change:

I enjoyed the Keema as well as the chunks of lamb. A hint of mint…

….or was that leftover from the Starter?

For the record, we were asked by two different staff if we were enjoying our Mains. I did mention the Cloves to Mein Host as being such a dominant Flavour.

Marg was not finished, a glass of Mango Lassi (£4.00) rounded off her meal.

The Bill

£47.80 … reduced to £27.80. Thank you, Chancellor Rishi.

When one dines in the Merchant City, the norm is paying appreciably more for what one can get outwith. Marg keeps saying it’s all about the ambience, for Hector it will always be about the Curry. One can expect quality fayre in the Merchant City, and the service to match, however, is the Curry significantly better than what is described throughout Curry-Heute as – Mainstream?

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was given to Mein Host as I showed him the review of our first visit to Green Gates (Renfrew) on the new, and so far, trusty – Oppo. He then remembered me. As I scrolled down to the staff photo, he pointed himself out. Tonight I had no chance of recognising him behind the face covering. I declared that the Renfrew branch could become our local if the bridge from Yoker is ever built. We await this, patiently.

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Glasgow – Ambala – Unsurprisingly, Hector returns to Pollokshields

Posted on August 15, 2020 by Hector

Last Saturday’s Curry with Marg at Ambala (11 Forth St., Glasgow, Scotland, G41 2SP) took Hector totally by surprise. It forced a re-write of the Ambala page on Curry-Heute, the Lahori Chaska Lamb Karahi was outrageously good. In the aftermath, songs were sung, an almost immediate return was mandatory.

Four of us were due to meet today at Ambala at 14.00. Hector managed a connection at Glasgow Central which the Scotrail App did not compute as being possible. As a result, there was half an hour to kill in Pollokshields, an opperchancity to stroll along Albert Drive and take in the sights.

On reaching the premises which once were – Lahore Kebab House – I was surprised to see the conversion to – Aqsa’s – still underway after all this time. It was only on reaching the corner that I realised all of the ground floor premises were closed. A glance upwards revealed two missing floors behind the sandstone brickwork and no roof, another fire on Albert Drive. On April 1st, in the first few weeks of Lockdown, this second block at Albert Cross was destroyed, five months after the first. No casualties were reported.

The new Curry House on the opposite corner – Pir Mahal Cafe – is no more. This unit has become yet another grocer, adding to the impressive array of Halal butchers and grocers along Albert Drive. This leaves Halal Kebab House as the only Curry House on Albert Drive, though – Sweet Centres – appear to be blossoming.

Arriving twenty minutes early at Ambala, I was invited by the chap behind the counter to choose my own table. Two waitresses were on duty this afternoon, one recognised me, the – dippy – one. I chose a large table which accommodated six.

Given that the kilos of Lahori Chaska Lamb Karahi (£24.99) can take up to forty five minutes to appear, I though it a good idea to get two ordered. Bread we could sort later.

Since last Saturday, some tables had been blocked off to provide greater – social distancing. The large table had been split by using chairs to create smaller units. No staff were wearing face coverings today, and if there was a form to complete on entry for – track and trace – I missed it.

I received a text informing me that we would only be three diners. I quickly had the Order reduced to 1.5 kilos. A half kilo is charged at a rather inflated – £15.99. I can see why the effort in producing this wonder dish may justify the price, however if one has already ordered the full kilo, well…

The waitress stayed to chat. I told her that she had done me a big favour last Saturday by bringing me – the wrong Curry. She claimed that the standard portion of Desi Karahi Gosht (£10.99) is also the Lahori Chaska Lamb Karahi. When I next encounter Ahmed, Mein Host, I shall seek clarification. Previous experiences suggest otherwise.

Mags and John were punctual. This was – Chapatti John’s – first visit to Ambala. Three Chapattis (£1.30) were ordered, along with a Tandoori Roti (£1.20) for Mags and a Nan (£2.40) for Hector. Two Dips had been brought to the table, as there were no Starters, these would not be touched.

The early arrival had paid a dividend, the wait was well within acceptable parameters.

Why did I again forget to ask for my Naan to be served whole? Still, the Nan was all I could ask for, light and fluffy. Today I would manage all but a crumb. The Roti was appreciably larger than the traditional Chapattis. Good Bread, all were happy.

Lahori Chaska Lamb Karahi

Chef could have served the lot on one large flat karahi, thankfully, the Curry was served on two karahi of differing sizes. John opted to take the half kilo such that he could tear in and not have to wait to see how fast his – opposition – was eating.

Once again, Ginger Strips and Coriander topped the Masala Mash which was already releasing its Oil. Slices of large Green Chillies had been cooked in then some added as a topping also. All looked well, Hector is always under a bit of pressure, but unless the Chef had changed, all should be well. John loves his – foliage – a la Manchester. He wondered as to what would happen if he turned up with his mix of Coriander Leaves, Ginger Cubes and Sliced Green Chillies to smother the top of his Curry.

My fellow diners were immediately impressed. This Karahi was from the same hand as last Saturday’s. The all important Seasoning was there, the distinctive – Butteriness – from last week was less noticeable, yet the intensity of Flavour maintained. The Spice Level was well pitched, manageable by all one would think. The Meat was again as Tender as can be, – melt in the mouth Lamb – remarked Mags. For Hector, this was again the Perfect Karahi, a decent quantity, and full on in terms of Flavour. I can see many more visits in the coming months, yet I also have to be faithful to my other favourite venues. Then there is the matter of how good is Ambala’s yet to be tried – Lamb Shinwari? Hector also loves Afghani Cuisine.

John could easily have cleared his karahi, he had a cunning plan. John reckoned that by saving some of the Masala he could use it to make more Curry at home. And so there was a Takeaway Masala, but not before the waitress asked John if he desired more meat.

My fellow diners offered their comments at the end of this meal of exceptional quality:

John – Up there with the best. Perfectly balanced, great blend of spice and taste. Uniquely their own.

Mags – I agree, it’s one of the best I’ve had recently, amazing. I’ll come back here again easily, as long as it’s the same chef.

*

The Bill

£48.48   Ambala is registered in the – Eat Out to Help Out scheme, however, today is Saturday.

The Aftermath

I told the young chap who appears to be the manager once again that the Karahi at Ambala has improved beyond all recognition. The mature gentleman who is often seen sitting behind the counter, thanked me for my expressing my appreciation of the fayre.

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Renfrew – Green Gates – Eat Out to Help Out

Posted on August 12, 2020 by Hector

On consulting the Government App, it gives a list of restaurants within a five mile radius of Hector’s House participating in the Eat Out to Help Out scheme. Green Gates (65 Ferry Rd, Renfrew PA4 8SH) appears on that list without caveat – life jackets not provided.

I phoned at the 17.00 opening time, the first available slot this evening was 20.00. With the Renfrew Ferry due to stop around 21.00, it was either risk having to swim back or take the car. We chose the latter. There is still no sign of the new bridge linking Renfrew with Yoker. If/when that day comes, Green Gates could well become – our local Curry House.

Hector and Marg arrived punctually, despite every traffic light in Renfrew turning red as we approached. There really is a junction in Renfrew where the traffic passes, without barriers, – on the right.

A one way system was in operation at Green Gates, ramp in – stairs out. We walked up the ramp as required, and did the hand gel ritual before signing in. All serving staff wore visors, those behind the bar had face masks, some of the time. Every table had a bottle of hand gel in situ. Not being familiar with these premises, one assumes the tables were more spread out than normal. We were shown to a well isolated window table.

The Menu was not overlong, Lamb Karahi was not an option – peppers – were clearly admitted. The Goan Fish Curry (£14.90) has Coconut, I wasn’t taking the risk of this being dominant. It was back to the – Old Favourites – Lamb Rogan Josh (£10.95) – has a condensed onion and tomato based sauce – this was deemed worthy of exploration. Marg unknowingly would make the same choice as on her last visit – Butter Chicken (£9.95). Assuming a Soupy Curry Marg suggested we share Rice and Bread. Mushroom Rice (£3.25) and a Nan (£2.95) fitted the bill. Apart from the Fish, Main Dishes are available as – small portions, excellent for trying something new or our case, adding an – Interesting Vegetable. Aloo Gobi (£5.95) completed the food order.

No Starters? – asked the waiter. Why be greedy?

The Drinks Order had been taken first, Marg chose the customary Sparkling Water (£1.95), but being a warm evening, a pint of Kingfisher (£3.95) was about to come Hector’s way. The first mouthful hit the spot, but having kept the majority until the end of the meal, it was far too warm. Suggestion for next time, have two pints, one at the start, one at the end.

Complimentary Poppadoms and Onion Chutney were brought to the table, no fuss, always appreciated. As with the previous visit, a Soupçon of Spicy Tomato Soup accompanied. Only lukewarm, it was still a pleasant treat.

The Mains arrived in good time, fitting everything on to the small table proved to be challenging. The Nan was in the classic teardrop shape, the pointy bit is always a highlight. Soft, light and fluffy with enough burnt bits, a perfect Naan. Marg took her share of the Mushroom Rice, that which remained did a better job of covering Hector’s plate than the pitiful quantity of Rice served two nights ago at The Village, and for the same price. Tonight there was indeed enough to share. All was set.

Lamb Rogan Josh

Topped with a sprinkling of Fresh Coriander and a single Ginger Strip, the Masala had indeed been cooked down to create the hoped for – Thickness. There was not even a hint of – red – but then oh no, two pieces of the dreaded – Mush – were encountered on decanting, then later a third. These were returned to the karahi, hopefully no damage had been done to the taste of Hector’s Curry.

The first dip of Naan in the Masala revealed the Seasoning was there. The Spice Level initially appeared to be set low, but as the perspiration collected on Hector’s brow it became apparent that there was indeed – Spice – in here. A powerful and – Earthy Flavour – emanated from the Masala, whole Peppercorns were encountered, along with the third piece of Capsicum. The tender Meat count was up to double figures, and ranged from soft to chewy. There was plenty to get one’s teeth into here. Had this been served as a – Bhuna – I would have been more than pleased, this Curry was far from the Tomato-rich Rogan Josh of old, or the – Creamy – interpretation that currently prevails. The Mushroom Rice was the perfect foil. I would most certainly have this Rogan Josh again.

Aloo Gobi

As a – Side – this was a decent quantity. An Onion-rich Masala shrouded the Potato and Cauliflower, Mustard Seeds may well have been the little black spots. Both Vegetables had been cooked as Hector likes them, there was still a bit of firmness.

A slight tang was detected, however, the hoped for blast of Flavour from this Dish did not happen, the Rogan Josh was way too powerful. Most of my share of the Naan was eaten with the Aloo Gobi, diversity achieved.

Butter Chicken

Here was the Soupy Curry which Marg loves and Hector eschews. The Red Creamy Masala may suit some, it looked pretty much like the Tomato Soup served earlier. Marg was of the same opinion:

It had a good flavour and went well with the Chicken. I enjoyed the Cauliflower and Potato as it had slightly different flavours. The Naan was crispy, not doughy.

Marg asked for an extra hot Latte (£2.95) whilst I tackled the remnants of the warm Kingfisher.

The Latte and chocolate mints completed the evening – concluded Marg. Hector was waiting for a – ping – to say there had been another goal at Ibrox. When finally, I checked the app, two more goals had been scored. An excellent evening.

The Bill

£22.93 with the other £18.97 being taken off by Chancellor Rishi. Cheers!

The Aftermath

I have been told that Chef Gurmeet of Punjabi (Charing X) fame now works at Green Gates. I asked the waiter, this drew a blank. Maybe he’s at the other branch in Candleriggs? Green Gates Cafe, I note the new venue in the Merchant City opens at noon on Fridays and Saturdays. This is perfect for Hector, one of two new city centre Curry Houses still to be reviewed on Curry-Heute.

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Glasgow – The Village “Curry House” – Eat Out to Help Out

Posted on August 10, 2020 by Hector

The last sit in Curry as Lockdown became enforced was at The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA). That day turned out to be the last Marg would ever work. It was fitting therefore that on the eve of her erstwhile colleagues returning to the chalk face, we should make our return.

Hector – messaged – The Village a few days ago to confirm that they were part of the – Eat Out to Help Out – scheme. This was confirmed, and they would be operating on – a first come first served – basis. Arriving at 18.30, there was quite a crowd outside, not queuing as I established, but waiting to be called in. Master Baig, aka – Kasif – was managing the door. Fifteen minutes – was the estimated wait. For obvious reasons, we were asked to wait outside, fortunately there was an umbrella in the car.

Forty five minutes later, Kasif beckoned us in. A window table was allocated. There were far fewer tables than normal, all suitably spaced. The booth seats from the balcony had been brought down and formed a central line of tables. The high backs of the bench seats offered much more than the privacy for which they had no doubt been conceived. All staff wore masks, all but one in the proper manner. Hand gel was at the entrance where one was expected to log in using a QR code. Mr. Baig, Mein Host, was front of house wiping down tables between customers.

The – new menu – was brought, my second encounter with this frustrating publication. Tonight, one could afford the highly inflated price for the Lamb Tawa Kirahi (£34.99), but Hector’s mission this evening was to experience a classic Village Curry. My favourite Dishes keep disappearing from the Menu, Achari Gosht (£9.95) has survived the cull. Special Rice (£3.25) would accompany despite – Mushroom and Peas – being a far cry from the outstanding Vegetable Rice of ten years ago. Marg decided to revisit the Curry which proved to be particularly pleasing last time – Lamb Lahori Karahi (£10.95) along with a Tawa Chapatti (£1.10).

During our wait outside, we had agreed that an appetite had been well and duly worked up, Lamb Chops (£7.95) had to be. Our customary litre bottle of Sparkling Water (2.95) completed the Order.

Having stood outside, it felt as if we knew those who sat around us. The large family groups had been sensibly split. There was a limit as to how many people could be sat at one table.

Lamb Chops

A portion of three, one for Marg, two for Hector, four would have been better. Marg commented on the presence of Coriander in the greenery, Hector’s attention was focused on the Meat. It has been a while, too long. Cremated, yet succulent, the perfect Lamb Chop. My precious. I could have eaten four.

There was a sensible wait between courses. Although every table was occupied, The Village was far from full. I hope to see once again, the crowd which gather on the famous Buffet Nights. We all missed out on the Buffet to mark the end of Eid. I suspect that these nights are even better value than the Chancellor’s Scheme in operation this evening.

The Special Rice, wtf? The conical dish was decanted, the contents hardly covered the centre of the plate. Suppose we had intended sharing? Mr. Baig, you cannot charge £3.25 for this. As mentioned above, the Vegetable Rice at The Village was once an integral part of the meal, outstanding in Flavour and featuring an array of Interesting Vegetables. Hector is not impressed by what is presently served.

The Wholemeal Chapatti matched Marg’s requirements.

Achari GoshtThe Village blended Masala glistened, this has been the source of much pleasure over many years. In a time before the conception of Curry-Heute, Hector would gorge on this at least twice a week. I decanted the Meat, eight pieces, just. This is why ordering by the kilo should be more satisfying.

The blast of Pickle is exactly what was anticipated, the Aniseed took me surprise. The Spice was there, the Seasoning spot on, wonderful. The Lamb was delightfully – Soft. I had to eke out the Meat, the Rice, the Masala, the overall portion felt pitiful. I ate the lot, Lime Rind included. Back in the day I used to tell Mr. Baig as I left The Village that I was always sad as my time of eating his Curry ended, tonight this came far too quickly.

Bring back the Lamb Desi Qorma.

Lamb Lahori Karahi

The single portion, served – Boneless – and – Medium – as requested, looked to have a much more satisfying quantity. Ginger Strips and Coriander topped the Masala, Syboes were spotted also. Dark and Thick, here was the classic Masala Mash for a Karahi.

Marg did not make her usual remark about the Spice Level and so this must have been well within her tolerance. A piece of Lamb crossed the table, I decided to keep this until I had finished the Achari. Seeing my plight, an extra piece was left. Unfortunately, due to the intensity Flavour of the Achari, there was no way anything else was registering on Hector’s palate. I did note that the Lamb had a totally different Texture from that in the Achari, highlighting the difference between Curry and Karahi.

As the last morsels were being swallowed, Mr. Baig passed the table. Insane – was his word to summarise the events of recent times. This may well have included the – half price – offer this evening. Marg, who does not have a hotline to 11 Downing Street, assured him that he will be reimbursed. Think about the auditing. Every – Bill – will have to be examined to check that the Eat Out to Help Out scheme has been applied correctly. At least The Village does not serve alcohol, so everything applies.

The staff tonight, mostly new, were excellent.

The Bill

£36.15 – rounded down to £18.07. Thank you, Rishi.

The Aftermath

I took the cash over to a busy Irram at the till she manages so ably on the Big Buffet Nights. She asked if we had enjoyed the food, indeed we had, however, I had to get in my dig.

Can we have the menu back from ten years ago?

Irram suggested that if I go on a quiet evening, they will cook whatever I desire.

Name the night!

Something which puzzled throughout the visit – why had so many people brought in boxes of cupcakes this evening?

Other news

Indian Mango (München) put out a message this evening to say that they are open on Mondays as of today. Anyone fancy a trip to München?

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Glasgow – Ambala – The Wrong Curry, or was it…

Posted on August 8, 2020 by Hector

Curry with Marg on a Saturday afternoon in Glasgow? Unheard of. Knowing my habits, all of them, Marg knew that her best opperchancity for food today was to join Hector. It was time for a change from the currently lauded DumPukht Lahori. Marg has yet to visit Basharat G’z but they do not open at present until 16.00. Hector had other plans for 16.00. Yadgar are still operating on a Takeaway basis only. Ambala Deli Bar (11 Forth St., Glasgow, Scotland, G41 2SP) was overdue a return visit.

Marg’s hockey commitment ended at 14.00, we agreed to rendezvous at Ambala. The new frontage shows that the – Deli Bar – moniker has been dropped. The interior decoration has also been toned down a bit, the place remains shiny bright.

One window table was occupied when I entered, the waitress recognised me. I waited until she was free and confirmed I could choose my own table at the opposite end of the room. She wore a mask under her chin, as so many people do, a fashion accessory, totally useless. No sanitising hand-wash was spotted. There is a general level of inconsistency across the land about operating procedures at this time.

A welcomed bottle of ice cold tap water was provided. I told the waitress I would wait for Marg’s arrival before ordering. This gave me time to study the Menu in depth. Ojhri Curry (£8.99)? I had to look this up. Ah, Tripe. £2.10 for a can of Mango Rubicon? A bit steep.

The once magnificent – Handi – is still inscribed on the window but has not been on the Menu for years. Its replacement, the Lahori Chaska Lamb Karahi has not delivered the – Wow – and at £15.99 for the half kilo, ouch. I considered the Fish Karahi (£11.99) but decided to give the Desi Lamb Karahi (£10.99) another chance. A Plain Naan (£2.40) would accompany.

Three other tables were occupied by the time Marg arrived at 14.20. Marg chose her fallback Keema Karahi (£9.50) with a Chapatti (£1.30). We were ready. The waitress took Marg’s order then looked at me. She realised she needed her pad so went off to fetch it. Marg was told – no Chapatti – and was offered a Roti (£1.20) instead.

I asked for the Desi Lamb Karahi and was asked if I wanted the half kilo. I pointed to the Menu and clearly stated – the standard portion. Having encountered Hector before, I deduce she was used to me ordering off-menu, enquiring about the Handi etc. The Plain Naan was confirmed.

The two ladies sitting opposite shared a Mix Grill (£16.99), they were having fun. A Keema and a Naan were set at the table round the corner from my spot. Ambala was slowly filling this Saturday afternoon.

When the large, flat karahi was brought to the table, I knew that this was way more than the standard portion. Ahmed, Mein Host, has been more than generous to Hector in the past, but there was no sign of him today. Unless someone brings Hector a Chicken Curry, why make a fuss, better to eat what arrives.

The difference between a Chapatti and a Roti is marginal, the latter tend towards becoming – crispy – as they cool. Why were both not available? This Wholemeal Roti was standard fayre. The Naan arrived in four pieces, I should have remembered to ask for it to be served – whole. Light and fluffy, this was a decent Naan. In the end I would only manage half.

Lahori Chaska Lamb Karahi

Note the title, this is not what Hector ordered, and as it transpired, there would be no complaint. As I would tell the dippy waitress, – this is the best Curry I have had at Ambala in years. Hopefully this comment went back to the kitchen.

The sheer mass of Curry on the karahi took me aback. Count the Meat, why? At other venues one wonders how – the half kilo – is determined. There was no such concern here. Topped with a liberal sprinkling of Fresh Coriander and Ginger Strips, slices of large Green Chillies stood out in the Masala. The abundance of seeds suggested the Masala base was Tomato. Oil was separating across the karahi, for some this can be off-putting, for Hector, this was a heavenly sight.

The first dip of the Naan into the Masala blew me away. Wow! Wow! And thrice – Wow! A Buttery Flavour overlay the melange of Spice and Herbs, this Masala had everything. In recent months I have sung the praises of the Lahori Karahi served at DumPukht Lahori (Glasgow). In Scotland, only DumPukht and Rustom Restaurant (Edinburgh) serve a Karahi Gosht in this style. In Glasgow, Yadgar and Karahi Palace have their own superb interpretations. Today’s Curry, I class as being in the Manchester style.

Notionally – on-the-bone – there was only one large bone on the karahi, and it was a Sucky one! The Meat was simply beautiful, it sat there, waiting to be devoured. Calm, Hector, take your time. The Curry had arrived at a blisteringly hot temperature, there was no fear about eating cold food.

This was one of those very rare exceptional Curry experiences, a moment of synergy where everything was better than everything else. And I didn’t order it. I was left to speculate as to how this exceptional Karahi Gosht came to be. A new Chef? Is this actually the fabled – Handi – restored? Once this is posted, I shall email Mein Host, watch this space for an update.

Keema Karahi

Topped with Fresh Coriander and Ginger Strips, this Keema was definitely at the correct end of the scale of dryness. The Keema looked dark and Herb-rich. Only a slight residue of Oil collected on the margins of the mass of Mince. This looked quite a plateful.

This has a kick – was Marg’s opening remark. We missed out on that statement last Saturday at DumPukht. Again, with some slices of the large Green Chillies, the Spice Level may well have been beyond the – bland.

I expected Potatoes – was Marg’s next observation. Having paid no attention to the options at the time of ordering, I can now ask why Marg was not offered the choice of Peas or Potato, or both? Aloo Keema Mutter is Marg’s favourite Curry.

A lovely flavour, a real good kick. Very filling, the Roti was hot and crispy.

Having finished the Roti, I expected Marg to take a piece of Naan. Instead, she drew a figurative line across the plate, Marg was full. With two pieces of Naan remaining and around six pieces of Lamb, including the Sucky Bone, I too decided to call a halt. My coefficient of pleasure had been maximised, why risk coming off the plateau? We had the car, the Takeaway option was the sensible course of action.

The Bill

£29.09 £15.99 of this was the half kilo. The full kilo at £24.99 is a much more sensible option. I would still describe today’s half kilo as – generous.

The Aftermath

The staff were busy dealing with the impressive number of customers as we departed. Saturday afternoon Curry? It’ll never catch on.

Update

Sunday afternoon time to reheat the Soupçon of Keema Karahi and Lahori Chaska Lamb Karahi. The latter was every bit as good as it was yesterday. This, however, was my first sampling of the Keema. Again – Wow! Marg was right about the Spice Level, the Seasoning was also a la Hector – brave. The intensity of Flavour astonished. Now imagine it with Potatoes and/or Peas.

Something has happened at Ambala, they more than deserve to retain their photo on the – About – page on Curry-Heute. Only a handful of venues in Glasgow can serve Curry of this quality.

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Shadwell – Lahore One London – The Wrong Curry?

Posted on August 4, 2020 by Hector

Three nights in Crawley, Marg and Hector are guests of Lord Clive & Lady Maggie. This was meant to the week of the Great British Beer Festival, alas, like everything else this year, cancelled. Before heading to Howling Hops, there had to be Curry-Heute. Whitechapel has proved to be a good grazing ground in Hector’s sporadic visits to the Capital. Google Maps lead us from Clapham Junction to Shadwell, still part of Tower Hamlets, as is Whitechapel. Where is London?

I spotted Lahore One London (218 Commercial Rd., Shadwell, London E1 2JT, England) last year when I had a Whitechapel Curry at the impressive Lahore Kebab House. Lahore One looked like Hector’s sort of venue, the classic Curry Cafe. Sources showed photos of a Karahi Gosht which was worthy of investigation.

The ladies left us at the door to Lahore One and headed west towards a coffee house. Only one diner was inside when we arrived. A lady was front of house, a chap behind the counter with another spotted occasionally in the kitchen. The Menu was brought to us:

I’ve read great things about your Curry – I announced to the lady who perhaps was nonplussed.

Karahai Gosht (£11.00) is why Hector was here. Clive opted for the Chicken version – Karahai Chicken (£9.50).

On reading the Bread options to Clive he expressed an interest in the Keema Naan (£5.00), however the price was judged to be excessive, or the Bread was possibly a meal in itself. Chilli Naan (£2.00) appeared to be the best option.

A Modest Salad and a Raita were brought to the table, the tap water was well received, it was hot out there. The Salad remained untouched, Clive sampled the Raita. Lime Pickle – was Clive’s take on the flavour.

*

Plates preceded the arrival of the food. We were warned about the hot karahi. The Chilli Naans were also topped with Coriander, Hector’s idyll. Although scored across their diameter, the Naans remained whole. Round, light, puffy, the Naans were excellent. If only Hector could master this.

Karahai Gosht

Behold the Soup!

The excessive, blended Masala bore no resemblance to anything I have seen posted elsewhere for Lahore One. A Tomato swam in the Soupy Masala which was topped with Coriander. The Meat content impressed, well into double figures, so good value. The Oil content was minimal with no sign of separation.

The flavour was quite distinctive, Euro-Curry flashed through my mind. There was a Big Spice Kick from the Masala enhanced by the sliced Green Chillies in the Naan. The overall Spice Level was therefore quite demanding, some may have struggled. The Texture of the Meat ranged from Tender through Chewy. There was a sense of the Meat having taken flavour from the sauce rather than being the source. More Seasoning may have extracted a greater depth of flavour.

I have to challenge Chef – in what way was this a Karahi?

Despite being closer to a Mainstream Curry, this was still damn good. As I have written oft, it was still – Curry. The lady passed having served the latest arrival.

Good?

Oh yes!

This raised a smile.

Chicken Karahai

Spot the difference!

Topped with Coriander and Ginger Strips, the Masala had the appearance of an authentic – Karahi. The Oil was beginning to collect around the periphery of the karahi, this looked the part, and was what I had expected to be served.

Clive wiped his karahi clean, nothing was left:

Pick your own exceptional adjectives and string them together.

That’s one way of making a comment.

The Bill

£24.50   A lot of Curry to the £.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was given to the lady. She thanked me and went to get her glasses. Unfortunately, the telephone had to be answered so the introduction to Curry-Heute was brief.

So, was Hector given the correct Curry?

Time to find the ladies and take the tube then a bus to Hackney.

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Glasgow – DumPukht Lahori – 2020 Curry

Posted on August 1, 2020 by Hector

Three days in Glasgow and Lord Clive of Crawley has not been to a Curry House. Hector had planned the traditional Saturday afternoon slot. However, all regulars were summoned to Holland St. today at 13.00 for the re-opening, at last, of the State Bar. There was no point leaving before the FA Cup Final had finished, thankfully there was no extra time. It was 19.50 when we headed across the river to DumPukht Lahori (39-41 Paisley Rd. West, Glasgow G51 1LG). I phoned en route to confirm that four of us would require two kilos of Lamb Lahori Karahi (£20.00). It is August, six months have passed since Dum Pukht first opened for business. Let’s hope the next six are without interruption.

Aqeel and his assistant, not seen since my first visit, were front of house to greet as we entered, a perfect photo opperchancity. We took the table to which I have gravitated on each of my visits. Bread had to be selected, Mags had witnessed the wonder which was the Roti (£0.90) served last time, four were ordered.

The assistant took the Order. There is also a new waiter who assured us his Farsi is much better than his English. All he needs is the language of the restaurant and all should be well. Three staff, it looks as if things are starting to take off at DumPukht. A Takeaway customer came in and enquired about a Leg of Lamb Karahi. Aqeel needs twenty four hours notice for this. Not on the Menu, this must be an enhanced version of what we had ordered.

The wait was not long, hot plates were brought at 20.10, the food arrived ten minutes later. Having not dealt with Aqeel directly, the wonderful Roti I was expecting had been replaced by the standard Wholemeal variety. A disappointment, but this will make me all the more determined to secure the super-Roti next time.

Lamb Lahori Karahi

The only thing better than one kilo of Karahi Gosht is two.

I doubted that the ladies would manage the whole kilo and so suggested they share, then Mags could have a Takeaway with the surplus. Well, that’s what I thought. Marg was hungry having not eaten all day, I did not expect to see their karahi empty so quickly. They cleared the lot, Clive and Hector ate at a more reserved pace.

Topped with Ginger Strips, the Masala looked the part. As ever, the Oil separated to collect on the sides. The Meat had been cooked to perfection, less fatty than last week. Marg found a piece of Kidney in the mix. At £20.00 a kilo, one cannot fault this. Kidney, there’s a story one should ask Marg to tell.

This Lamb Karahi had a much more Peppery flavour than last week’s, closer to what Dr. Stan and and I had on Visit #1. The photos may highlight the red, however, this Karahi was closer in flavour to the paler Namkeen.

Whilst we ate, Aqeel came over to check all was well. He then made a video of us tucking in to his fayre. This was a first.

There was a Kick, not such that Marg made her usual comment, the Spice Level just kept growing. My notes record – soft meat, the bone count was not excessive.  This was another wonderful offering, Aqeel had done us proud.

Mags – This is definitely better than one I had last Saturday. Peppery, if I could get that every time, I like a White Curry, tick.

Marg – A very pleasant peppery taste. A variety of textures of meat in an oily but tasty sauce, and I enjoyed the Roti.

Clive – Very flavoursome whilst eating. The notable thing is the after-taste. It wasn’t a hot Curry, but it just kept growing.

We weren’t finished. Marg went over to the fridge to inspect the Ice Cream (£2.50). She returned with a tub of Cookie Dough flavoured.

The Bill

£46.50   Where else in this city could one find such magnificent Curry at this price?

The Aftermath

As we left, a chap was sitting on the other side of the room tucking into a whole kilo of Chicken Lahori Karahi. Good on him.

Last week Hector became aware of the park in Kinning Park for the first time. On leaving Dum Pukht this evening, I became intrigued by the flower basket on the adjacent fence. What lies behind?

Interesting.

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Glasgow – Mother India’s Cafe – Full-on Flavour Day

Posted on July 30, 2020 by Hector

Last night’s Kofta Anda somehow whetted Hector’s appetite for – Spinach. With a restricted number of options in Glasgow’s West End open mid afternoon, the Lamb Saag as served at Banana Leaf (76B, Old Dumbarton Rd, Glasgow, G3 8RE) was foremost in Hector’s mind. Alas, it was not to be, Banana Leaf was not open (yet?).

Open as advertised, unlike… was the title of my last post at Mother India’s Cafe (1355 Argyle St, Glasgow, G3 8AD) when the same disappointment occurred. The small table which Marg and I tend to be allocated was once again Hector’s appointed locus. There were fewer tables than usual, the staff were wearing masks, Social Distancing was being observed, all was well.

Machi Massala (£5.80) was a given. Lamb Saag (£6.20) would be accompanied by a Paratha (£2.15) and a Sparkling Water (£2.95 !!!). Hector would have his Spinach!

Given how few diners were present at 14.30 on a Thursday afternoon, the wait was not long. Business was surprisingly steady.

I had great expectations for the Paratha, the standard here is high. What came was Light, Flaky, Layered, and had an acceptable Buttery sheen, not greasy as others might interpret the moistness. The negative was the use of Wholemeal Flour which Hector eschews in favour of – white. A decent Paratha, and only a crumb was left, so a good size.

At the point of ordering the prices of the Tapas portions did register. Compare the platefuls at comparable prices served in Kabana (Manchester) last week. I suppose one knows what one is getting here, and it is the West End.

Machi Massala

The blast of Capsicum hit hard. What have they done to my favourite Curry at Mother India’s Cafe? The Fish Curry, I have described for over a decade as being the best served in Glasgow, has changed. I had not noticed a solitary piece of the hideous Green Mush topping the Dish with the Ginger Strip. I had to stop ordering the Lamb Karahi here some years back when they declared that the Capsicum was already in.

Fortunately, after Hector’s palate had recovered from this unwelcome assault, the Flavour somehow faded towards – Pickle, this surprised. It therefore took a few moments to register anything – Fish-like. The Spice and Seasoning were there, the quantity of Fish was enough to justify the cost.

Does this mean a change of Chef, recipe?

Give Hector back his Machi Masala!

Or, is the plan to ruin the entire menu?

Lamb Saag

The portion looked tiny, but proved to be deceptive. Five pieces of Meat sat in the dark, thick, Masala. The powerful taste of Spinach came over instantly, success. The Spice Level was moderate at best, the intensity of the Seasoning compensated. The Texture of the Lamb covered the spectrum from Tender-soft to chewy. A double portion would have gone down well, but what a price that would have been.

The Bill

£17.10 Eating here must still be regarded as a treat.

The Aftermath

Mein Host confirmed that Mother India’s Cafe only opened yesterday for dining in after Lockdown.

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Hector Cooks Chicken Karahi + Naan

Posted on July 30, 2020 by Hector

Chicken Karahi? We live in strange times. For example, last night’s attempt at making Naan marked the hundredth post in – Hector’s Cooking, but not the hundredth Curry. I reckon that happened this evening, so I must present myself with a certificate to mark the occasion.

Lord Clive of Crawley arrived in Glasgow this afternoon, our busy schedule over the next few days may only permit one restaurant Curry. Tonight there had to be food, but with trains stopping early, it was a case of go home and rustle something up. Clive often orders a Chicken Curry. Hector, the perfect host, did not think his guest would be impressed by having to wait ninety minutes for a Lamb Curry. And so, it was a case of in which order to start the preparation of a Chicken Karahi, and what was going in?

*

Frozen chopped Onions was the starting ingredient, then it was a case of assemble the large dried ingredients in one dish, the powdered in another. Hector was not holding back, a Minimal Masala and a big Spice Level was the objective. Whilst the contents of each dish were stirred in, the Chicken Thighs were cooked in the microwave, a safety net, no Salmonella please.

Onion Powder was used as a thickening agent, dried Methi went in with Garam Masala towards the end.

Amchoor Powder and Salt were the last to go in to this Post Pub Curry.

Throughout Lockdown I have watched numerous video clips of people preparing Karahi, using Chicken is so much more straightforward, but the outcome inevitably less satisfying. The positive is that a Karahi bears no resemblance to a Curry cooked with a base gravy.

Two dough-balls had been set aside for tonight, just in case. These were rolled out whilst the Tawa was heated. To improve upon yesterday’s attempt, the aim was to go larger and also hopefully thicker.

Tonight, more bubbles formed across the dough as it cooked on the Tawa. Melted butter was applied before turning. I wanted the burnt bits and monitored the cooking to ensure that this didn’t get out of hand. The result was pleasing in terms of appearance.

Chicken Karahi + Naan

Clive was well impressed that I had made my own Naan from scratch. The size was definitely better than anything I have produced so far. The Texture was again most certainly Bread-like, but as I had already doubted the efficacy of the Yeast, the Naan was not as light and fluffy as one would hope for, next time.

The Chicken Karahi had come out exactly as planned, a Dry, Thick, Masala. The Spice was there and the Seasoning was a la Hector. The Methi had provided the extra Flavour dimension, everything was fine except for the Meat. The Chicken did nothing other than make this a – Non-Veg Curry. Fish Karahi next time?

This is marvellous – was one of the correct noises made by Clive as he ate.

Just something I rustled up – was the modest reply.

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Hector’s #3 attempt at Naan + Basharat G’z – Kofta Anda

Posted on July 29, 2020 by Hector

With Rizwan confirming that last week’s wonderful Naan at Kabana (Manchester) was made from – strong white flour, Hector was motivated to once again try making Naan Bread at home. The range of flour available remains sporadic, simple – white flour – was the best I could find.

The second attempt at homemade Naan employed a basic recipe of flour, oil and water. This time I would also include Yoghurt, an Egg (one egg is un oeuf), Salt, Sugar, and Yeast. It was about time I got around to using the Yeast, it has been in the cupboard for some twenty five years. Again, I have not seen Yeast in the shops through Lockdown.

Maybe I should not have been surprised yesterday when the mix of Sugar, Water and Yeast did not react. (Add to the shopping list – Yeast.) With plenty of time to hand, I let the dough sit under cling-film in an oiled bowl to rest for some hours. Last night I divided the dough into four balls, two for today, and two for, well we’ll see what transpires.

The Naan would be the accompaniment to the Kofta Anda purchased at Basharat G’z (223-225 Allison Street, Glasgow, G42 8RU) at the start of the month when travelling restrictions were lifted, a bit. Four Meatballs, one Egg, I’ve done that one already.

Normally I would use a pan to reheat, tonight the frying pan came out to play. Here I was able to watch the Shorva sizzle, then thicken. Slow cooking, despite appearances, to try and reheat the Kofta evenly.

I still cannot source a non-nonstick Tawa. A stick? Just how hot does one get it before adding the dough? I had a spare in case the intuition was wrong.

The dough rose initially around the edges, not in the middle, then a big bubble formed, encouraging.

I knew the half cooked Naan had to be flipped, the bubble would then burst.

Once flipped and with some butter pasted over the entity which now resembled Bread, I decided that this was as good as it was going to get.

Kofta Anda + Hector’s Naan

The Naan had the texture of Bread, but was nowhere near as light and fluffy as was the objective. Still, not too shabby, recognisable as a Naan.

The Kofta were lightly Spiced, and as much as they had a decent level of Flavour, I soon came to realise just how much more wonderful – Kofta Palak – can be. The hard boiled Egg felt out of sorts without copious Shorva and a Chapatti. As a snack, this was fine, I was left wanting more.

The Aftermath

It was time to experiment again. I rolled out the other dough-ball and placed it on a baking tray which in turn went into a preheated oven. The golden Bread which resulted looked OK, alas, it went straight into the bin after tasting. So, this is how one bakes biscuits?

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