Glasgow – Khyber Pass Restaurant – Under New Management

Four days ago, a certain social medium flagged up that it is three years since my last visit to Khyber Pass Restaurant ( St. Andrews Road, Glasgow, G41 1PD). Despite having had Karahi Gosht on my last two Curry outings, I thought I might squeeze in another. Opperchancities for my favourite Curry may be limited in May.

With Central Station Low Level closed for some weeks yet, I have become used to taking the Subway from Partick to the Southside. Shields Rd. is the handiest stop for the Khyber Pass.

Arriving at 14.45, the premises were seemingly empty, nobody front of house. Mein Host came out from the back kitchen, my Order was relayed.

A half kilo of Lamb Karahi (£13.00) and a Plain Naan (£1.00).

As I approached a table in the main dining area, it was confirmed that my Order was for sitting in. Spice Level was then discussed:

Spicy, but not crazy Spicy.

The smile confirmed this was understood.

I took the opperchancity to photograph the far dining room in which I have yet to sit. As I studied the Takeaway Menu, I established that there was no price difference for dining in. My Naan was officially – Fresh Plain Nan. The Bread prices at Khyber Pass have always been realistic.

The cooking of my Karahi was to be done in the open cooking area behind the counter. With greater familiarity, I would have approached to record the moment. Hector the bashful.

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A Salad and Raita were brought to the table. I asked for a jug of water, having seen no Sparkling Water in the fridges. The Salad was certainly better than – modest, the thin Raita had a Peppery kick. At this point I established that the – New Management – have been in place for four months. My question – what happened to the other guys? – fell on deaf ears.

These premises have changed hands at least twice since I first visited – The Khyber – back in March, 2011. Thankfully, the traditional Afghani – Namkeen Karahi – has been maintained throughout all formats. Original Khyber in Shawlands claim to be the chaps who were here first in St. Andrews Road. It is a year since I made my only, visit there. That was for Takeaway during Lockdown restrictions.

After fifteen minutes of scraping, stirring and rolling (the dough), the Order was brought to the table. A – gasp – may have been audible. I had never seen Meat piled so high in a karahi.

Lamb Karahi

At Namak Mandi, I have been served half kilos which have just reached the rim of a comparable karahi. Last Saturday at Karahi Palace, my – portion – was definitely approaching the half kilo. Today’s was decidedly more than the half kilo, could one fit a whole kilo into this karahi? Usually the kilo is served in a larger, and preferably flat, vessel.

The Naan, served whole, was also huge. Despite the perforations, it had risen, probably due to the sheer amount of dough. I suspect some wholemeal flour had gotten into the dough mix. The Bread had risen to create a sufficient level of fluffiness.

I had to decant the Meat to the plate, else my Karahi would have been all over the table. Twelve good sized pieces of Lamb then sat on the plate,

I had hardly made a dent in the contents of the karahi. The Oil ran across the plate. This was not going to waste, especially at a time when cooking Oil is rapidly disappearing from our supermarket shelves.

The first wipe of Oil immediately confirmed the efficacy of this Curry. The anticipated – Pepperiness – was there, and of course, the – Seasoning. The Masala shrouded the Meat, there wasn’t much room in the karahi for an excess. Tomato-based, this was the real deal, the only – red – that would have been added to the pot when cooking. Tomatoes, Green Chillies, Salt and Pepper cooked for hours, hopefully with Lamb on-the-bone in situ. Namkeen Karahi has such a distinctive, full on Flavour,  the simplicity of its magnificence still baffles after all these years.

With the first plateful eaten, along with some Salad, another dozen pieces of Meat were decanted. At this point I accepted that I would be paying for the kilo, I knew I could not eat all that sat before me. That which remained in the karahi would go to a good home, in Helensburgh. The Bread would have to be abandoned, I had hardly eaten any Naan.

The Lamb was Chewy-Tender, it’s exhausting eating this much Meat. I had long passed the point where pleasure was giving way to meeting the challenge. Determination made me eat what was on my plate, that and an honourable upbringing. Mother would have been proud.

It would have been criminal to question the quantity at the point of serving. I took the remaining portion of, still hot, Namkeen Karahi up to the counter:

That’s the largest half kilo I have ever seen.

That was a kilo – was the not unexpected reply.

Perhaps my gentle, West of Scotland accent would have been better served by applying the harsher, Eastend – hoff kilo. (Of course, Hector does not actually have an accent.)

Why would one man order a kilo and not be challenged?

The Bill

£27.00         No hidden charges, so all was well.

The Aftermath

Four customers had arrived as I completed my meal. Mein Host was busy, I drew his attention and left the Calling Card on the counter.

I shall certainly be returning to the latest version of Khyber Pass Restaurant. Being open all day makes the venue fit in with Hector’s preferred eating time. Marg loves Namkeen Karahi, so I shall have someone to share with.

One final piece of information today: the astounding Ramadan Buffet at The Village is back. This should not be missed. This year, the Ramadan Buffet starts at 21.00. 

Menu extracts