This evening, Curry at DumPukht Lahori (39-41 Paisley Rd. West, Glasgow G51 1LG), It’s just over a year since our last visit. This is a function of places that do not open until 17.00 tending not to be visited so often. Hector and Marg arrived at 17.15, half the shutters were still down.
Marg tried the door, it opened. Aqeel, Mein Host, was there to greet. He attempted a fist bump, Hector prefers a handshake.
The decor has changed markedly, six months ago reportedly. A new marble tiled floor has been installed. Not epoxy resin then, I did ask. There is also more pucka furniture.
Dare we speculate as to how such transformations are financed?
We took a table at the far wall, not the window, as the sun would have been in our our eyes. We waited for the menu to be brought to the table, alas a friend of Aqeel entered the shop and so they became engrossed in conversation for some minutes. Anywhere else, being a one man show, we would have been tempted to walk, but that would not have fitted in with our schedule this evening.
We were in the Southside to see – The Long Drop – a play based on the true crime novel by Denise Mina, a very, very, good friend of Chapatti John. And a long drop is what Hector had in mind for Curry this evening, if ever we were served.
I fetched a menu myself. Whilst the conversation at the far end of the room continued, I noted that prices have not changed, but then there was a significant hike before our visit last year. Prices remain competitive, realistic. In time, I summoned Aqeel who explained that this was his best friend, former Chef at World Buffet. We were introduced, of course.
In keeping with the current avoidance of excess Lamb, and knowing that Marg and Hector could never finish a kilo, it was agreed we would have Chicken, despite the fact that – there ain’t no such thing as a Chicken Curry.
Chicken Peshwari Karahi (on Bone), £27.99 for the kilo, was duly ordered, along with a Till Naan (£3.99) and a Roti (£1.50). Aqeel finally made his way to the kitchen and began cooking. In the interim, a young assistant arrived and set about wiping down the tables, ironically all tables except the one at which we were sat.
Aqeel came out to ask if we required Salads and Raita. Knowing this would interrupt the cooking process, declined, though Marg would have preferred to have the Salad whilst we waited. Chilled tap water was provided.
With less time taken than would have taken to prepare a Karahi Gosht, the Chicken Peshwari Karahi was presented along with the Bread.
At first glance, the Roti appeared to be made from wholemeal flour. Closer examination suggested it was too white and therefore not a wholemeal Roti, in my book, better. Marg would demolish this in no time and come in search of some Naan.
The Till Naan also served in one piece, was comparatively thin, well-fired, with Sesame Seeds. It did look as if it would be biscuity, however, far from being light and fluffy, it still has a soft texture. This remains my preferred Naan at DumPukht.
Chicken Peshwari Karahi
The Karahi looked ample, toppings of Ginger Strips, abundant whole Green Finger Chillies, just a theat of Coriander. Marg helped herself, cleverly avoiding many of the pieces of Chicken on-the-bone. For Hector, it didn’t matter. A decent portion was taken along with some Chillies.
The Masala was lighter in colour than it would be in a Goshat Karahi. More than a sense of creaminess being the root cause of this. The Masala was appropriately minimal, enough, no more.
The remnants were scraped off the base of the karahi with the Bread, always an enjoyable process.
The Seasoning in the Masala stuck a chord, the Spice started to build. Having carved the occasional Chicken, I was surprised that some bones were unrecognised. Tasty Chicken, this actually tasted like the Chicken of my childhood, when Poultry was always a treat. A good Texture, but of course this Meat can only superficially absorb external Flavour. In terms of this being Curry, the Masala had to do the heavy lifting.
There was virtually no Oil separating, everything looked healthy. Some Chicken pulp in the Masala Mash did enhance the Texture. I would eat three Chillies, insurance, a means of maintaining the Spice Level.
This Chicken certainly impressed, such that I ended up with twice as many bones as Marg. Not a surprise, Sucky Bones, and after last week’s footering with Quail, Chicken Bones were hardly gong to be an issue.
Marg helped finish most of the Naan, all but a scrap remained.
As we ate, so Aqeel came to ask the customary question. All was well with the food, in fact significantly better then I had anticipated. Aqeel told of customers from Manchester stating that they could not source Curry such as this in their city. Nonsense of course, as a well known and reliable Curry Blog details that The Curry shops on Cheatham Hill Rd are Punjabi. They too serve Curry by the kilo. My trip to Bradford next month was mentioned. I realised Aqeel knows nothing of Bradford Curry, and so describing it as Methi-rich passed over him. Marg:
We shared a kilo of Chicken Peshwari Karahi, on-the-bone. When the dish arrived, it looked too much for two, but we soon demolished it. I found the chicken tasty, as it was mainly brown meat, and the minimal sauce was rich, oily, and bursting full of flavours. My mouth and lips tingled afterwards. I did not eat the green chillies but enjoyed the strips of ginger which were scattered about the dish. The chicken pieces were small and you have to be fearful with the small bits of bone.
My Roti was fresh and hot, I enjoyed this combination. I even tried the Till Naan which was full of roasted sesame seeds. Although a thicker bread, the seeds made it a special combination.
Overall, a lovely meal with plenty of flavours in my mouth.
The Hector would declare this to be the best Chicken Curry ever experienced, and despite the views expressed in Curry-Heute, a few have been had, but maybe not since the 1960s. I would have this again, even dining alone, the half kilo at £14.99 is well priced.
The Bill
£33.50
The Aftermath
I showed Aqeel photos of Karahi Gosht on Cheatham Hill Rd, Manchester, followed by the dark, rich Curry typical of Bradford. The latter did not appear to impress, however, as we all know Bradford Curry may still be regarded as the finest served in the country.
I did confirm that despite what the back-side of the menu may claim, DumPukht Lahori is not open on Sunday mornings for Desi Nashta.
And so to – The Long Drop – at the Citizens Theatre. Marg had secured seats in the third row, lots of leg room, and a great view of the stage. We were intrigued as to the presence of a piano and a drum on stage. The Hector feared that Marg had dragged him to yet another musical, Hector cannot abide musicals.
The cast of seven, playing multiple roles, captured the menace of the final days of Peter Manuel, the notorious serial killer from these parts. A play, literally with gallows humour, not a musical.
Eighteen hours later
I received a text this afternoon from Martyn Robertson, director of – Make it to Munich – a chap with undoubted media connections.
My people tell me you were at the theatre last night.
Yes, and…
Reports said that the Curry Man was spotted by actors in the show whilst they were performing. Backstage text messages were sent to confirm the sighting was true and accurate.
Please tell me who.
Curry-Heute fans … namely Robert Jack and his chums Keith Fleming and Andy Clark. Robbie has been in Succession, Shetland, Lockerbie as well as River City, the others have done loads too, a stellar cast.
I get to see some bands regularly, only on the last of the recent Gazpacho shows has there ever been any recognition from the stage. To say the ego has been given a boost, well… Back on planet Earth, it is always appreciated when people let it be known that these pages are actually read by others. Thanks, chaps.
Hector’s log supplementary
Martyn is in Boston MA for a certain event which looms, unfortunately Hector has no Curry advice for Cambridge MA/ Boston MA but plenty for Bier.
And if he is moving on to Miami FL, then look no further.