München – Indian Mango – Das Ritual Chettinad

A day in München is only going to commence in one way, Chettinad at Indian Mango (Zweibrückenstraße 15, 80331, München). Steve, who is with Marg and Hector in Deutschland for a few days, was waiting for us. The rendezvous was 13.00. One of the Chefs saw me take the exterior photo, both Chefs therefore greeted Marg and Hector as we walked in to the surprisingly empty premises.

There was a point last night when I considered ordering both the Lamm Chettinad (€15.00) and the Fisch Chettinad (€13.00). Later in the day, I probably would have, I’ve done it before. This early, it had to be a one Curry model. Fish it would be, Marg was on board too, no messing about with snacks. Marg appreciates the wonder of the Curry served at Indian Mango. Steve opted for the Lamb Chettinad plus a Garlic Naan (€2.50). A Mango Lassi (€3.00) for Marg, and three 0.4l glasses of Sparkling Water (€3.00) completed the Order.

It was Herr Battra’s new partner who served us, he did a double take when the Fisch Chettinad was ordered, one less Spicy for Marg. I assured him, that although it’s not on the menu, Chef would do it. Herr Battra, Mein Host entered a few minutes later, the customary warm greetings were exchanged. It is five months and two days since our last visit to Indian Mango.

The familiar pungent aromas spread from the open kitchen, the Fish and the Chettinad Spices. Scraping noises were aplenty, the Chettinad as served at Indian Mango is as much a stir-fry as a Curry. Minimal Masala is always Hector’s preference, here – Minimal – is in the extreme.

Rice for three, was brought by our chap, who served each of us a modest portion. This left a mountain that would have fed six, still on the plate. Even after we had each taken the required quantity of Basmati, there was still an embarrassing amount left. It’s a European thing. For the lunchtime menu Curry, it’s half a plate of Curry, half Rice. I fail to understand why, when ordering from the Main Menu, this amount of wastage maintains. Lovely Rice, though, light and fluffy. Steve’s Garlic Naan was served halved, a dry, thick covering, but looking a bit thin, peely wally.

Fisch Chettinad

Expectations are always high. This Fish Curry is the yardstick against which all others are measured.

Coriander Leaves topped the Dark, Thick Mash. I arranged the Mass of Fish and Masala Mash on top of a decent portion of Rice. There was still plenty of Curry left in the pot. A few years back I challenged the Quantity, in recent times, the full measure has been restored.

Coriander Stems have always been a significant part of this Curry, they were abundant, as were sliced Green Chillies. The Chillies had been withheld in Marg’s Chettinad. Traces of Tomato were visible. The Onions appeared to have been caramelised, a feature remarked upon by Marg early on. The Fish was in pieces, not flakes, integrity would be maintained until the point of cutting. There was certainly enough Fish in there, however, it was impossible to count given the complex nature of the Dish. Sauce? One would be hard pushed to identify one, yet there was clearly enough moistness to the Curry.

A Big Spice and Smoky Blast hit the palate. There is nothing like it served anywhere else that I have encountered in my extensive travels. Marg’s first comment related to the – smokiness. This was a classic South Indian Curry, taken to the extreme.

The Texture of the Fish was perfect, no rubbery nonsense served here. That I had chosen Fish over Lamb today felt like the better choice. Steve wasn’t saying much whilst he ate, nor was Hector, too busy eating and taking notes.

As the palate adjusted to the Spice, so the Flavour of the Fish itself came across. Initially, I felt the Seasoning to be down a bit, but my lips had a definite Salty/Savoury feeling of satisfaction as I ate on.

The end game shows the Chettinad mixed through the Rice. It looks seriously – Dry, it works. Is this the ultimate Fish Kedgeree?

Marg:

A lovely dish, full of fresh and tasty fish, complemented with a variety of flavoured vegetables in a rich smoky stir fry.

*

Lamm Chettinad

With less Coriander on top, one can see the Meat protruding from what definitely looks more like a Masala. Maybe this Chettinad is closer to Curry? The Richness of the Masala was clear to see.

Steve:

Everything was perfect. Lovely spice flavours, and not in your face. I did like the burnt onions. A wee bit on the dry side, could have done with a bit more liquid.

Herr Battra had departed by the time we finished, farewells. He told us that the – Mango – would be served at the end.

It’s just as well Steve did not have the Fish. I was last finished by quite a bit. The Mango, in effect more Lassi, was duly served. Refreshing as this was, I was glad later when the Salty/Savoury sensation returned to my lips.

The Bill

55.50 (£46.25)   Sterling has gained a little bit this week against the Euro.

The Aftermath

It is becoming a ritual to applaud and photograph the Chefs as we depart. They are always delighted to be thanked.

München, what else is there to do here?

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Glasgow – Bombaywalla – Indian Street Kitchen – Bona Fide Indian Curry

Having become aware of the opening of Bombaywalla – Indian Street Kitchen (186 West Regent St, Glasgow, G2 4RU) it was only on closer examination that I noted this was an indirect replacement for Babu – Bombay Street Kitchen which closed back in 2019. The latter now appears to be operating as a pop-up at The Arches and in Shawlands, although this will have to be verified.

I arrived at Bombaywalla at 14.30 to be greeted by Mein Host at the door. I would be the only diner at the venue which has been opened for three months. Having already studied the menu online, I knew the Curry choices were limited. In Lamb it was either Keema Matar (£9.95) or Lamb Kolhapuri (£9.95). Seabass Malabar (£11.95) is definitely one for the future.

I asked which Vegetables were in the Mixed Veggies Biryani (£8.50). Mein Host listed: Carrots, Broccoli, Peas and Cabbage. It was confirmed that there would be no Capsicum in either the Biryani or the Kolhapuri, all was set. Yes, Hector was in effect ordering two main courses. The prices were right, and after the Tapas at Roti of Edinburgh on Wednesday, and the decidedly modest Lamb Curry at Desi Dhaba Chaiwala on Monday, Hector was determined to be fed. That a Curry with Coconut was being ordered, is always a risk. Hopefully it would be close to a Chettinad, which for reasons unknown, outside of München, is always served – Soupy.

A Glass of Tap Water was provided, no Sparkling Water was available. Mein Host then offered Coffee whilst I waited, gracefully declined.

The counter, which took up much of the basement premises in the time of Babu, has gone, creating a much larger seating area. Twenty diners can be comfortably accommodated, though one expects that much of the business here will be Takeaway. Mein Host acknowledged that people still working from home is not helping him establish Bombaywalla. In time, surely people will phone in their lunch orders.

A substantial bowl of Raita was provided, in the end I did not need to touch it. Had I ordered from other parts of the menu, this would have been a useful accompaniment. Hector was here for Curry, not Street Food.

As the food was arranged on the table, so I was asked if I was a food photographer. It was time to introduce myself:

No, I’m a Curry blogger.

The Calling Card was duly presented.

Mixed Veggies Biryani

Topped with Fried Onions, Tarka, I additionally found Aubergine, Green Beans, Cauliflower and a Green Cardamom. It may have taken a couple of weeks since I had my heart set on this at Taste of Pakistan (Lisboa), but here it was, a truly worthy Vegetable Biryani. The Rice was suitably moist, the Dish had its own identity. I don’t know how others regard Biryani, but the Vegetable version is surely the ultimate accompaniment for Curry when Rice is required? What ever happened to the Glasgow custom of serving Biryani with a Curry Sauce? I note that Bombaywalla have a Masala Rice (£2.75), I must enquire when I return to try the Seabass Malabar.

The portion was substantial, that I have just written these four words, reflects the level of satisfaction. I decanted as much Rice as I knew I could manage, sadly there would be waste.

*

Lamb Kolhapuri

Topped with Ginger Strips and some Coriander, the Curry featured a mass of blended, Soupy Masala. This was very much expected, and  distant from my usual Karahi Gosht. Today, I knew I was having – Curry – and so had chosen to wear my – Curry hat.

I decanted the Meat and enough Masala to create the perfect photo opperchancity. I stopped counting the Meat when I reached double figures, finally, this week, Big Curry!

Mein Host was still at the table when I announced:

I know exactly what Flavours I am expecting from this Curry, something South Indian.

Indeed, Hector was spot on. The dark Masala had Onion/Nigella Seeds mixed through, the Peppery Flavour was pronounced. The hoped for – smokiness – was just about there. The Coconut did whatever it does without adding Sweetness. Despite being far from the typical Hector Curry, this was truly excellent.

How is the Spice? – asked Mein Host?

I replied in the positive, the nose would be wiped as and when.

What’s more important, is the Seasoning – I added.

The Seasoning here I put in the – brave – category. Chefs are typically afraid to take it to the limit, this Curry had Seasoning, Spice, and so tremendous Flavour. As with an Achari, it may not be to everyone’s taste, but for those who can handle intensely Flavoured Curry, this Kolhapuri does the job.

The Lamb was most certainly – Tender. Mein Host told me it had been slow-cooked then the rest added. This was apparent, the Flavour of the Lamb itself was prominent, the South Indian Flavours were not coming from the Meat.

With an audience of one, Hector was in his element. I asked if Mein Host had been to Rishi’s Indian Aroma, a few blocks away, apparently not. I informed him that the Lamb Chettinad (£11.95) at Rishi’s, being close to the Kolhapuri, is way overpriced for the quantity given. Big prices, small portions, not what the Hector seeks. If one orders Lamb Kolhapuri at nearby Tuk Tuk – Indian Street Food, it’s a Tapas portion, nowhere near as satisfying.

With the Meat taken care of, I returned to the remaining Masala, this was when the Vegetable components of the Biryani came into their own. Meat and Masala, not so exciting, Masala with an array of Vegetables, always a treat. It became a matter of eating until I decided to call it a day. Hector had been fed, and some.

The Bill

£18.45 Mein Host considered that due to the promised review, a discount could be offered. This was declined – I have to give you a tip!

The Aftermath

Chef had been made aware that a food critic was present. He emerged from the kitchen beaming, possibly having heard the positive words describing his creations.

The city centre location, and that Bombaywalla opens daily at 11.00 (closed Mondays), definitely suits me. Marg will have to come and appraise the Keema Matar. I will certainly have the Kolhapuri again, especially given that the new incarnation of Banana Leaf does not open until the evenings.

If all goes to plan, my next Curry will also be South Indian, and extremely – Dry.

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Edinburgh – Roti of Edinburgh – Further Exploration Necessary

I have passed Roti of Edinburgh (42 South Bridge Street, Edinburgh EH1 1LL) on each of my visits to the other other Curry Houses clustered around Nicolson Square, it has always been closed. When in Edinburgh, I tend to eat earlier, Roti’s 15.00 opening time is therefore cutting it fine. Still, this is the best time of day to eat Curry, according to Curry-Heute.

Having studied the online menu at Roti, I realised that I have been missing out on the potential to celebrate what appears to be another outlet for Punjabi Cuisine in the east of Scotland, there are not so many. I arrived before the 15.00 opening time as did three young members of staff. It was only when the elder staff member arrived with the keys a few minutes after 15.00, that we all entered.

I took a small table to the right, subsequent diners were of course given the window tables. One chap did ask if the food here was Halal, all was well.

The presence of Lamb Karahi on-the-bone at £26.95 for the kilo had already convinced me that there was serious Curry available. However, £18.95 for the half kilo is simply not on. Nor is £3.95 for the – Popadom Tray. If one scans down to the previous posts, one can see that in the recent trip to Portugal, complimentary Poppadoms and Dips are de rigueur. Why are people expected to pay this in the UK? The price of Soft Drinks also set alarms ringing, just how large is a glass of Mango Rubicon (£2.95) which, if it comes from a two litre bottle, is a total rip-off. Hector decided to splash out on a 750ml bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.50).

The menu description of the Dishes only mentioned – Peppers – sporadically, and certainly not in the Lamb section. I checked with the young waiter who would serve me – only the Jalfrezi. This put the mind at rest, no Ballast here. The majority of the Lamb Mains are £14.95, pricey, but this is the city of Edinburgh.

I decided that in order to cover more Dishes, I would do Tapas (£7.95). Now I’ll have to visit Mother India’s Cafe (Edinburgh) which is around the corner, to compare their Tapas prices (and portion size) with the Glasgow original and Roti. Mother India’s Cafe opens at noon.

There had to be Lamb Karahi, even though I would accept that from the outset it could not possibly be in the same league as the – on-the-bone – version, well one presumes thus. Additionally, the Desi Lamb Bhuna proved irresistible. To what extent it would come across as – Desi – would reveal much, also, how many a Soupy Bhuna has Hector been served over the years? To accompany, a Chilli Coriander Nan (£3.95) not on the menu per se. I believe that’s what I ordered, the Chilli Garlic Nan, I would normally avoid.

As I waited, I took in the flurry of snow. As forecast, it’s chilly in the east. There’s a downstairs seating area, adjacent to the kitchen, which I did not visit. The ground floor décor is modern, casual, spacious. When I bring Marg, I’ll secure a comment on the ambiance.

*

Roti of Edinburgh – is apparently one of three restaurants owned by Mohammed Din. He began in Corstorphine, wherever that is. Note how many years it has taken Hector to explore the Nicolson Square area. Much of Edinburgh remains a mystery, however, I already have my favourites. If anyone can identify the others, that would be appreciated.

The food was assembled on the table. For the second time this week there was the feeling of not a lot of Curry for the Pound.

The Naan had heaps of Coriander leaves and stems, no sign of Chilli, and thankfully no Garlic. What did I order? More round than a teardrop, there was but a hint of burnt extremities. If there was a Tandoor, maybe it hadn’t had time to fully warm up? The Naan had not risen as much as I would have liked, so nothing like the light and fluffy Naans I have recently enjoyed. It did the job.

Maybe I should have had a Roti.

Desi Lamb Bhuna

The Thickness of the Masala impressed, the Meat count did not. Four, come on, you’re charging eight quid for this? At least I can report the pieces of Lamb were a decent size.

Syboes were mixed through the dark, rich Masala, which had the welcoming Oil collecting on the periphery of the stone pot. I didn’t decant to the plate, one Curry at at time.

The fear of disappointment lurks before every Curry, especially at a new venue. The first dip of Naan into the Masala had me won. The Richness, nay intensity, of Flavour hit hard, this was a wonderful Curry. The Big Spice hit, OK easily achieved, was complemented by the full on Flavours. Strangely, on taking the first piece of Meat, the strength of Flavour from here actually masked the Spice, most unusual.

I looked at the modest portion, should I have gone for – the full Bhuna? Sorry, that just slipped out. This Tapas portion was gone, seemingly in an instant. I definitely wanted more. In a Glasgow Curry Cafe, I would simply have asked for same again, not at these prices.

Lamb Karahi

No Syboes, and perhaps a slightly paler Masala, were the distinguishing features here. Well, it was served in a karahi. Again I counted to four, I so wished I had reached five. I was impressed by the quantity of Bread I had eaten, or does that say something about the quantity of Curry served? The liberal Coriander was falling off the Naan, this would add something extra to the Karahi.

Two slices of Bullet Chilli, plus Ginger Strips, were embedded in the Masala, along with slivers of Tomato skin.

The Masala had nothing like the – kick – of the Bhuna, however, the Bullet Chillies took it back up, also transforming the Flavour in the process. I had the Spice, but not the intensity of Flavour. Maybe the Seasoning was not what it might have been? To judge this Soupçon of Karahi Gosht after the wonderful Desi Bhuna may be unfair. Or does that simply tell us, it was nothing like as impressive?

The Desi Bhuna was the standout Curry, dare I say it had the – Wow!

The Bill

£23.35 Or twice what I paid last Saturday at Karahi Palace (Glasgow) for way more Curry.

The Aftermath

The staff were busying themselves, the entrance was vacuumed during my stay. I gave the Calling Card and introduced myself to the young chap who had served me.

Nice to meet you – was the reply.

I shall certainly return to Roti of Edinburgh, the kilo needs to be shared. Then comparisons with Rustom Restaurant shall be inevitable.

Menu extracts

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Glasgow – Desi Dhaba Chaiwala – Relocated to Forth St.

Once upon a time, well eight years ago to be precise, there was Cafe Sizzler located in the former Clachan Bar on Paisley Rd. West. In 2014, Hector was invited by Nadeem to review this welcomed addition to the Glasgow Desi Curry scene. Lovely, bespoke Curry, cooked by Chef Mohammed, Cafe Sizzler didn’t last.

*

*

Last year, when I finally got to visit Desi Dhaba Chaiwala, located in the grounds of the car wash at Eglinton Toll, Zee, our lady host, recognised me from the days of Cafe Sizzler. It was Howard who told me that these modest premises were closed. Passing yesterday, I spotted the sign giving the new locus for Desi Dhaba Chaiwala (21 Forth Street, Pollokshields, Glasgow G41 2SP). Hector, as always, is on the case.

The area around Albert Drive, Pollokshields, could probably support more Desi Curry Houses, however, opening next door to Ambala Pakistani Cuisine was decidedly brave. Forth Street is always buzzing, a focal point of the community, forget trying to park here.

A group of chaps were sat outside Desi Dhaba Chaiwala taking advantage of the spring sunshine. Entering at 14.15 with camera in hand, I was taken aback by the sheer size of the place, and the number of people present. I came to realise that many were staff, lots of staff, – Team Dhaba.

Oh, you’re back, I remember you – was the greeting by the tall chap who famously lost his Chapatti to the wind, when Marg and I visited their former premises. Zee passed me too, a smile of recognition, Hector was in the house. Desi Dhaba Chaiwala has only been in operation at this location for three weeks.

Before taking a seat mid-room, I investigated the length of the premises, what a place. What was here before?

The laminated menu was brought to the table, one orders at the counter, then pays at the end. It didn’t take long to digest the menu, Keema Aloo (£8.00) and Lamb Curry (£9.00) were the only Dishes of interest to the Hector. Opening at 09.00 daily, it became apparent that Desi Nashta is the main fayre on offer. Alas, Hector likes his Curry/Karahi.

With no Rice or Naan on the menu, A Plain Paratha (£3.00) felt like the appropriate accompaniment. The Student Biryani (£6.00) aside, this must be the only Curry House I have encountered with no Rice.

My Chapatti Chap served at the counter. No Sparkling Water and so a can of Mango Rubicon (£2.00) completed the Order.

Sans moustache, and sporting a baseball cap, I failed to recognise Chef Mohammed when he brought me Bhel Puri. The four shells, a Chana Chaat, and Tamarind were an unexpected and much appreciated bonus.

The Tamarind added the bite, there was probably as much Potato as Chickpea so the Chaat was certainly enjoyed. The couple who took the adjacent table were similarly welcomed, a nice touch.

My chap soon brought the Order. Having declined ice, I was given no glass. I had to go up to the counter to fetch my own, glass, spoon, and more napkins. Looking at the Lamb Curry, I was left with one overriding thought – is that it?

Lamb Curry

I counted eight pieces of Meat, some on-the-bone, sat in a Shorva. I later revised the count upwards to nine. Shorva, with Kofta fine, as a Curry, not what I would choose. I didn’t feel that I had £9.00 worth of Curry sitting before me. Another option would have been the Mix Thali (£15.00), a three Curry model. Why spend that much? For £15.00 I can get a veritable feast at Yadgar. In Manchester, Rice & Three is around the £6.00 mark. Maybe, Desi Dhaba will review their portion size?

The Paratha was huge, glistening, with a buttery sheen. Usually this tends to evaporate, not today, if anything, the Paratha was too greasy/buttery. However, it did have the layering, the swirl, the moistness prevented flaking.

I dipped my first piece of heart-attack Bread into the Shorva, oh. There was a sharp kick which hit the back of the throat, we had Spice. The first piece of Lamb also gave a huge blast, this time of Flavour. The Meat and Shorva were definitely not strangers. Some was Tender, some chewy, however, the Meat was always enjoyable. Why was the Shorva not giving the same depth of Flavour? Abandoning the Buttery Paratha, I used the spoon to sup the Soup. Ah, here we go, the anticipated rich Desi Flavours hit the palate. Well Seasoned, Aromatic, I felt the same taste in my mouth as when waking into a Suq. The Flavours were distinctive, powerful, this may not have been my first choice when it comes to Curry, but this was damn good.

Four members of staff checked on my progress. My server, Chef, Zee and finally Mein Host, Zee’s brother. To him I mentioned the minimal menu. Their plan is to rotate the Lamb Curry, but only ever have the one on offer. A few Dishes only, fresh each day is the model. On showing my photos back in 2014, it was Mein Host who confirmed that this was indeed Chef Mohammed, his father. When Chef was with me, I confirmed that the true Desi Flavours were prominent. Desi Dhaba – was his reply.

More food arrived, this time Dessert. It is some time since I have had Gajar ka Halwa, served warm as it was today, always appreciated.

The Bill

£14.00 In effect, the same as I paid at Karahi Palace on Saturday. It is clear which Curry was the better value, but then, I did enjoy the extras.

The Aftermath

Zee (Zaytoun) was happy to have her photo taken with her brother. She too repeated the plan to rotate the Curry, Curry one day, maybe Karahi the next. But how does one know in advance? If Karahi Gosht is on, I would love to know when. I put it to Zee that they were brave opening beside the excellent Ambala, however, I can see that Desi Dhaba is trying to offer something different.

More photos, the fayre on display, plus a freshly prepared Desi Nashta.

As I departed, I spotted the poster for the Kashmiri Pink Tea (£3.50). That’s one for Marg. The chaps outside asked if I had enjoyed my visit – indeed!

2022 Menu

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – Business as Usual

15.00, a Saturday afternoon in Glasgow, time for Curry. Today was the day for what has become the monthly visit to Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ). This is Hector showing self restraint, it could easily be a weekly visit.

I didn’t ask about the work going on outside.

Another solo diner was in situ as I took my usual spot. Another Curry Guru, of sorts, he was finishing Chicken Tikka with Rice - something plain - as he put it, - Karahi Palace don't do King Prawns - I was informed.

The usual? - asked Ayaz.

Indeed, but instead of my customary Chapatti (£0.80) I opted for a Coriander Naan (£3.00). Karahi Lamb (£9.00) as always, would be the main event.

The lady brought a much welcomed jug of water, there was a smile of recognition. It's 18ºC today in Glasgow, fear not, snow is a possibility next week. The water tasted of bleach, what has happened to Loch Katrine's finest? The Modest Salad and Raita confirmed I was home.

With Ayaz front of house, and no sign of Chef Rashid, it was another chap who prepared the Karahi Gosht. It became clear that he had been well tutored in all things Karahi Palace.

The Coriander Naan was a work of art. With burnt extremities, and a big blister forming to one side, there was a combination of thicker edges and a slimmer centre. Plenty of Coriander had been mixed in with the dough. Light, fluffy, this Naan was so good I nearly managed the lot.

*

Karahi Lamb

One day, I'll count how many times I have had this Curry at Karahi Palace, it must be more than one hundred. Sizzling as it arrived, this provided the confirmation that the food would retain its heat whilst I ate. The Ginger Strips and Coriander Toppings were accompanied by sliced Green Chillies in the mix. I took a moment to appreciate the peripheral Oil, this may have its detractors, it has to be there.

The Tomato-based Masala Mash was scooped on to a piece of Naan, Hector was home, another truly special moment. The Spice hit the palate hard, Chef had not held back. The distinctive flavours of a Karahi Palace - Karahi burst on to the plate, consistency.

One - Sucky Bone - plus a few more from which the Meat was easily removed. My first Curry in eight days, my first Lamb in eight days. I never count the quantity here, there's always enough.

Ayaz checked on my progress, I gave the thumbs up.

Where are your friends? - he asked, knowing that I have been here either with Marg or mostly alone in recent times.

They have got out of the habit - it is about time this was addressed.

The Naan proved to be a good choice today. I was hungry, a Chapatti would not have sufficed. At one point I thought I manage the entire Naan, one day.

The Bill

£12.00 I must ask who the company is that shows up when paying by card.

The Aftermath

The briefest of farewells, back out into the heat. Enjoy it whilst one can.

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Lisboa – Food Garden Grill and Indian Restaurant – #1 Curry in Rua do Benformoso

Desi Curry in Lisboa, it was with an air of optimism that Hector led Marg down the slopes from Castelo de São Jorge towards Martim Moniz. It was only yesterday that Hector discovered the Curry Disneyland that is Rua do Benformoso, ten Curry Cafes along a two hundred metre backstreet. Food Garden Grill (Rua do Benformoso 115, 1100-083 Lisboa Portugal) was already the intended venue, Hector was having his favoured Lamb Karahi (€7.95).

As we entered Rua do Benformoso, there was a mass of people. On a lane leading up from Food Garden, a line of people in familiar attire. It had just gone 13.30, Friday prayers. For a moment I wondered if all the Curry Cafes would be closed for an hour, not so. We took a table in the near empty restaurant.

A young chap brought menus, they were laminated in a folder which just kept going. Eventually I found the page that would otherwise be the cover. There was much here I could order, but I would stick to my plan. The photo of the Paratha looked as if it could be spectacular, not available. I would take a chance on the Garlic and Coriander Naan (€1.95). As has become the norm in the past week – sem Pimentão – was the given instruction, the description of Lamb Karahi here did mention – Peppers.

Marg, still in snack mode, took the opperchancity of the presence of Vegetable Samosa (€2.50), more Salad! (€2.50) and Asian Tea (€1.20). A Fanta (€1.50), for me, completed the Order.

During our stay, the place filled up, some dining in, many just sitting waiting for Takeaway. There was a visible sense of community amongst our fellow customers, they knew each other. As the outsiders, our presence never felt less than comfortable. I have led Marg to many a backstreet location for Curry. Milano still lives strong in the memory, again, we were well looked after.

We amassed quite a spread, again, check the Salad.

Vegetable Samosa

The broad edges of the Samosae gave the appearance of the stuffing all being to one side. Marg held up a Samosa for inspection. The Potato-rich interior was prominent. Spice – wasn’t mentioned, so all must have been well here.

The Salad, superficially, resembled the – comedy – Salad served yesterday at Taste of Pakistan. However, beneath the crudely sliced Carrots, Cucumber and Tomatoes, lay grated versions of, well more of the same. Needless to say, the whole Green Chillies remained untouched.

The attraction of Asian Tea is beyond me. Milk with Tea, not for me. And it wasn’t anything like the Pink Delicacy served at Yadgar (Glasgow). 

Anyway, Marg was having a fine time, with her – snack.

Garlic and Coriander Naan

How puffy is this? Risen, with burnt extremities, blisters, and a sprinkling of Herb, this Naan looked majestic. What’s more, it was not dripping in Garlic, Butter etc. The size was, well, – Hector size. I would manage every morsel. The Hector idyll? This could well be the Naan I have been describing, but not securing, in many posts over the last few months.

Lamb Karahi

The standard eight pieces of Meat, large and boneless, sat in a classic Shorva. This was Desi Curry, I could tell long before it hit the taste-buds. Time for an aside.

I have read a few reviews of Food Garden in the past twenty four hours, many mention – oily food. As I posted my photos live from Food Garden today, so the first two comments were – Oily. People simply don’t get it. The Oil can be stirred back in (when not totally in excess) and is a fundamental part of the Shorva-Masala. Remove too much Oil and the Masala loses its impact, I know, I have spoiled a couple of home-cooked creations by doing so. If one can’t handle this, order something else.

The first dip of the Naan revealed a killer Desi Shorva. We had Seasoning and a Peppery, Chilli blast. The back of the mouth instantly knew there was Curry coming its way. No Oil, no Flavour, here was the required intensity of Flavour. Mmmmm.  Let’s dip more Bread in the wonderful Oily Shorva.

The Meat varied in quality from decidedly chewy, to almost Tender, not the best Lamb ever encountered. If chewing prolonged the eating then it prolonged the enjoyment of this Karahi. Furthermore, the Meat was decidedly a giver of Flavour, Cinnamon stood out in particular.

The Naan proved to be an excellent companion, the Garlic was understated and so did not distract. Was this the best Naan I’ve had this year, certainly a contender.

For this Karahi, it had to be Bread, though I am left to wonder how good the Vegetable Biryani (€5.50) would have been?

This Lamb Karahi and Naan lived up to expectation. No more Mainstream Curry Houses in Lisboa for Hector.

It’s worth mentioning the young chap who served us. Always, attentive, but he gave us space. He makes his first photo appearance bringing the Tea.

The Bill

€16.55 (£13.90) Card payment accepted.

The Aftermath

As I paid at the counter, so I presented the Calling Card, which hopefully will find its way to the boss. Permission to photograph the counter was granted as a matter of course.

Ten Curry Cafes on Rua do Benformoso, I would eat at Food Garden again, however, at least three venues have caught the eye and so will be visited before I ever come back here. Sadly, this is the final Curry of March 2022 in Lisboa. Even for Hector, Curry, seven times in eight days, is enough. It is also time Bier-Traveller.com was given some attention.

Menu extracts

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Lisboa – Taste of Pakistan – new Owner, same Chef, different Menu

My first Curry in conterminous Portugal was at Taste of Pakistan (Rua Sao Pedro Martir 37-B, 1100-555 Lisboa, Portugal) back in 2020. I was blown away, particularly by the Vegetable Biryani, which was ordered as an accompaniment to my customary Lamb Karahi. This experience was definitely amongst my principal reasons for wishing to return to Lisboa.

That I have had Curry already in Gaia (Porto), Cascais and Lisboa, itself, on this trip was seen as a prelude to my return to Taste of Pakistan. High expectations.

Two years ago, the passageway that is Rua Sao Pedro Martir, was under renovation, as was clearly recorded. Today, scaffolding gone, more inviting, by day certainly. The signage at Taste of Pakistan was recognised as Marg and Hector walked up the slope at 14.00. The staff greeted, they appeared to be taken by surprise, two relatives of Caspar Milquetoast entering their premises. I chose the table that gave Marg some view, well of the TV at least, and myself the view of the room. Marg accepts her fate.

The laminated menu was on the table, to say it was minimal would indeed be brief. No prices, is this legal, in the EU? Rua Sao Pedro Martir is not Rodeo Drive, I reckoned we would be alright.

Sitting adjacent to the counter, I engaged the young chap who would serve us.

No Vegetable Biryani? This was confirmed. Can you imagine my level of disappointment? Perhaps, if Lockdown #2 hadn’t forced the cancellation of our return in 2021, the original menu may have still been in existence? Mix Vegetable, a Curry, was listed. Why no offer of making a Vegetable Biryani then?

Mutton Karahi was the only Curry I could conceivably order. What the hell, I’ll have Mutton Biryani to accompany. A waste of food would be inevitable, but maybe nobody will ever know the cost.

For reasons, unfathomable, Marg did not desire Curry three days on the trot. Starters, a snack. She enquired about Samosa, not on the menu, not available. Hang on, – available at weekends – we were told. And to think she declined Chicken Samosa back in 2020.

The menu photo of Chapli Kabab suggested a portion of four with a Salad garnish. Marg negotiated a portion of two Chapli and a separate Salad. As ever, I ensured that Capsicum would not make an appearance. Why should they in this menu, well it was a matter of belt and braces. Medium Spice was agreed.

Two 25cl bottles of Sparkling Water completed the Order.

From the kitchen I heard a relatively high pitched voice, a lady Chef? I asked the chap about the changes. A new owner, he confirmed, but the same Chef. Knowing I had a photo of Chef 2020, out came the Oppo. Not him, the other one. All would be revealed.

The Order was assembled, it became instantly apparent that the volume of Marg’s snack would mean that no assistance was coming my way.

Chapli Kabab

The volume of Mince that could have made four decent sized Chapli had been combined to make two! Marg managed to raise a smile for the photo. Remember, the three thick slices of Lime are in the foreground. This was the biggest plate of Mince ever set before the Lady. Then there was the Salad.

Chunky – does not even begin to describe this. (One ought to see Marg’s – coleslaw!)

Sliced, not diced Carrot. Sliced Onions and Cucumber, all effort spared. Marg summoned Olive Oil else this would have been cast aside. Salad? This was a Greengrocer’s display.

Despite their humongousness, the Chapli were cooked through, raw Mince would have unacceptable. I had to take a sample, I could have taken half, Marg would not have complained. Moistness had been maintained, a Spice Level which did not cause Marg to comment meant all was well here. An – earthy – Flavour emanated from the blend of Meat and Spices, and no doubt Herbs also. If one was going to face – death by Chapli – then today might as well be the day.

*

Mutton Biryani

The same Topping of sliced Almonds, as featured two years ago, was a most welcomed sight, continuity. It was Marg who spotted that the Lamb was on-the-bone. A Sucky Bone was present here. There was no Meat count, two Dishes, a huge challenge.

The Pilao had a richness of Flavour but not the impact of its Vegetable counterpart. How could it? Vegetables add a – Diversity of Texture. Potato absorbs so much Flavour. Today I had Mutton and Rice, plain on paper, but damned enjoyable. And there was still what was meant to be the main event to consider.

Mutton Karahi

I would love to know what was sprinkled on top with the Coriander. The large cut Meat, again – on-the-bone – sat in the blended Masala. I decanted the contents of the karahi on top of about half of the Biryani. Hector, what were you up to? Marg’s little fingers stayed firmly across the table, absolutely no assistance was forthcoming.

The Masala should have been had with Bread, I let it soak into the Rice. The Spice Level was not testing, the Seasoning developed as I ate. There definitely was Flavour here, and something quite familiar. The distinctiveness of the blend of Spices was comforting on the palate. This was the Desi Cuisine I seek, wherever I dine.

The Meat, from both Karahi and Biryani, was generously giving of Flavour. This was beyond all Lamb had on this trip. Tender, with the right amount of chewing – was noted.

The combination that sat before me was so close to home, I had to be in a good place. This truly was the maximisation of the pleasure of eating, and I was never going to run out of food. This was beyond Hector’s ritual eating of Curry. For once, more Masala would have prolonged the seder. And maybe some Potato.

The Bill

€31.90 (£29.59) Card payment accepted.

Now, you’re all wondering what cost what…

€1.20 – Sparkling Water (x2)

€8.50 – Mutton Biryani

€7.00 – Mutton Karahi

€7.00 – Chapli Kabab

€7.00 – Salad

Note: Marg has made no comment about her Chapli, but she had plenty to say afterwards about the – Rodeo Drive – pricing of the Salad.

The Aftermath

He was more handsome back then – our chap said of Chef. All were assembled, the updated staff photo for Taste of Pakistan. A backstreet Restaurant certainly worthy of a visit, however, moments after we departed, something happened … and I’m not referring to another magnificent night of European football.

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Lisboa – Rua do Benformoso – If you’re serious about Curry

Instead of turning right as we left Taste of Pakistan and heading back towards the stairs at Taste of Punjab, we headed up the gradient reaching the stairs towards the north east corner of Praca Martim Moniz. This square is the city centre terminus of Tram 28, and features a Green Line Metro station.

Off the stairs lies Shahjahal Curry & Pizza which was in the process of being set up as I stopped off to record a potentially interesting menu. 

Shahjahal Curry & Pizza

Previously on Tram 28, I had tried to spot what Google Maps show as a line of Curry Houses to the north of Martim Moniz, no luck, they are not on Rua da Palma. With feet on the ground, I sensed the main road was not where the Curry Houses were, they had to be behind and parallel. And so Marg and I started the short trek along Rua do Benformoso.

What followed was reminiscent of the discovery of the line of Curry Cafes behind the fruit market in Athena. In Rua do Benformoso, here was Curry Heaven, ten cafe-style Curry Houses. Research has revealed that this street became the focus of the relatively recent Bangladeshi immigration. As became apparent, the menus do not represent the Mainstream, these are Desi/Apna Curry Houses, serving the needs of the community.

Taste of Lahore (Rua do Benformoso 76, 1100-086 Lisboa)

Taste of Lahore offers great value and does serve authentic Mutton (Goat) Desi Korma.

Food Garden Grill (Rua do Benformoso 115, 1100-083 Lisboa Portugal)

On seeing this, and checking out the venue, I made the decision, I’m eating at Food Garden tomorrow.

Bangla Restaurante (Rua do Benformoso 147, 1100-083 Lisboa Portugal)

Tasty Hut (Rua do Benformoso 151, 1100-084 Lisboa, Portugal)

Three different Mutton Karahi, hold me back.

Radhuni (Rua do Benformoso 155, 1100-083 Lisboa, Portugal)

Bengal – Sweets & Restaurante (Rua do Benformoso 157, 1100-084 Lisboa, Portugal)

Spicy (Rua do Benformoso 203, 1100-083 Lisboa, Portugal)

So much Fish Curry to choose from.

Moonlight Restaurant (Rua do Benformoso 205, 1100-089 Lisboa, Portugal)

Dhaka Restaurante (Rua do Benformoso 220, 1100-395 Lisboa, Portugal)

Spice Hut Tandoori (Rua do Benformoso 270, 1100-087 Lisboa, Portugal)

Ghoroa Spicy (Travessa do Benformoso 2, 1100-087 Lisboa, Portugal)

Completing the loop the back to Martim Moniz on the main road, I did find a Punjabi supermarket which also claims to be a restaurant. Seating is outside only, I asked about Curry, nope.

Sher -e- Punjab (Rua da Palma 284 A, 1100-394 Lisboa Portugal)

Walking downhill from the castle, heading towards Martim Moniz:

Restaurante Cafe e Grill Tradicional Indiano e Portugees (Largo do Terreirinho 5, 1100-495 Lisboa Portugal)

Yak & Yeti (Clacada de Santo Andre 17, 1100-466 Lisboa, Portugal)

In the north of Lisboa, down from the parliament building en route to Tram 28

Spice Paradise (Rua de São Bento 325, 1250-220 Lisboa, Portugal)

Finally, the other Cascais Curry Houses.

Since visiting Cascais, I have seen an article listing Masala Indian Restaurant as one of the top Curry Houses in all of Portugal, so glad I did not miss out then.

Gandhi Palace (Rua Frederica Arouca 39, 2750-303 Cascais Portugal)

Taj Mahal (Rua Sebastiao Jose de Carvalho e Melo 15, 2750-483 Cascais, Portugal)

And just in case people thing Hector never eats anything else, I’ll add a mention of Alpendre (Rua Augusto Rosa 34, 1100-091 Lisboa, Portugal).

Friends in Berlin sent us here. The ten chaps queueing outside insisted that Alpendre is the best restaurant in Lisboa. Yes, it was excellent.

I would love to visit and review many Dishes from every one of these Curry Houses, alas, I shall not live that long.

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Lisboa – Caxemira – Conzinha Indiana – After The Misty Mountain Hop

Wednesday, the day the weather would turn, no more rain. Two weather apps, neither has been accurate. The day trip to Sintra went ahead regardless. The total cloud cover was unexpected, the mist up in the hills made photography a farce. There was even a hint of the sandstorm blowing in from the Sahara as we returned to Lisboa. Palacio Pena and Castelo dos Mouros are certainly worth the visit.

We chose 21.00 as the optimum time before closing for Curry-Heute at Caxemira – Conzinha Indiana (Rua dos Condes de Monsanto 4, 1º Dt. º-1100 – Lisboa Portugal), a venue I was determined to return to. Caxemira, the upstairs Curry House people walk past every day, not knowing the splendours that are served here. The upstairs locus and the décor are reminiscent of The India Club at The Strand (London).

*

We were given a table mid room, I had the view of the serving area, the lady there would observe all the photography and note-taking. The Menu is not vast, realistic, not an endless list of tweaked Dishes that are going to come out of the same Big Pot anyway.

Today for Hector, Rogan Josh (€12.50) – Borrego/Lamb – of course. A Paratha (€2.75) would accompany. Marg returned to her favourite, Kheema Curry (€13.50) with a Roti (€2.00). For Steve, Lamb Chilli (€12.50) with a Garlic Nan (€3.25). Mein Host gave a Piri-Piri warning to Steve, Mr. Madras would surely cope.

Bottles of Agua com gas (€1.65) completed the Order.

All the Bread was served quartered. Why do I always forget to ask for it to be served whole? The Garlic Naan had risen to create the required puffiness with burnt extremities. Internally, it did not resemble a – normal – Naan, but did have the same airiness as that served on Sunday at Annapurna Anjos. The Paratha had layering, the swirl, but would go too crispy, not perfect. The Roti had burnt blisters and had risen. The Roti went crispy, as they do. There was actually little difference between the Roti and the Paratha. When Marg ordered a second Roti, here was the confirmation that the Bread was decidedly – small. In the end, the second Roti was not finished, but there was no trace of Naan or Paratha.

The sparsity of the décor was not the only thing which would make me think of The India Club, check the portion sizes, there were lessons to be learned here.

Lamb Rogan Josh

Eight pieces of Meat, the magical number which Chefs have decided constitutes a – portion. The – redness – confirmed the richness of Tomato in the blended Masala. Finely chopped Onion were also present, so blend the Masala then add more Onions, different. I should try this at home.

The food was hot, the Spice Level I recorded as – sharp. The Seasoning was – right up there. The Lamb proved to be delightful, giving flavour, Tender, Spicy. So many positives here lead to the conclusion that this was indeed a Curry to be respected.

Mein Host checked on our progress:

I like hot food, this is hot.

Kheema Curry

Clearly this Curry had been served way too wet. No Peas, no Potato, just a mass of Mince in a Soupy Masala.

Marg ate the lot, with the help of half of the second Roti. A Curry that was evidently enjoyed.

*

*

Lamb Chilli

Despite the false colour in the photo, this Curry was actually – brown. The Masala had a similar Texture to the Rogan Josh. Steve ate in silence, savouring the moment. Having eaten here previously, he knew this would be a good Curry. At the end he did say he could distinguish between the Piri-Piri and the Chilli.

*

As with The India Club (London), I would suggest that diners have a Starter at Caxemira, or, as I have come to realise, order three Dishes between two.

The Bill

€53.45 (£50.37) Maybe this was pricey enough.

The Aftermath

There was little point having a Curry Blog and not revealing it. A second Calling Card was issued at Caxemira, Mein Host was delighted. The lady who had observed all was brought in, she too appeared to be well chuffed. Three happy diners, two happy staff, hopefully Curry-Heute can give joy to all.

Menu extracts

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Cascais – Masala Indian Restaurant – Curry at the Seaside

Cascais lies forty minutes by train, to the west of Lisboa, on the Atlantic shoreline, a day at the seaside for Hector, Marg and Steve.

Steve and Hector had independently conceived a day trip here, Steve didn’t know until yesterday that the Curry House had already been chosen. My research suggested that Masala Indian Restaurant (R. Frederico Arouca 288, 2750-355 Cascais Portugal) was the place to go.

It was a close run thing with Gandhi Palace and Taj Mahal, possibly just as good. If there’s a poor Curry House in Portugal, I have yet to encounter it. A new challenge?

Walking down from Cascais train station, one soon encounters all three Curry Houses. The staff at Masala were serving customers sat outside, they greeted us as we stopped to study the menu. We promised to return once the town had been explored. Masala was clearly the busiest of the three Curry Houses.

Having seen the Castle, Marina (my yacht is ship-shape) and the Ukrainian flag flying prominently, we returned to Masala around 14.30. Outside seating was offered, no thanks, people can smoke there. A comfortable table was secured in the interior of Masala, from there, all could be surveyed.

The given description of Lamb Karahi (€9.90) was encouraging, however, the Fish Karahi (€11.00) contained the offending – Pimentão Verde, not today. We’re at the seaside, suddenly, Fish costs more than Lamb.

Beef Bhuna (€10.00) was calling, the Onion, Tomato and Thick Sauce attracted, the Capsicum not. That would be taken care of. A Nan (€2.00) would accompany.

Marg turned back the clock, Butter Chicken (€9.90) with Jeera Rice (€2.00). Jeera Rice? What’s going on here? This was based on the assumption of a more Soupy Masala than she would normally order.

Steve studied the menu from front to back more than once. He too felt like a change from Lamb, his ordering of Chicken Madras (€9.50) came with a spice warning. Pulav (€3.00) and a Garlic Nan (€2.75) completed the food order.

*

*

The two 25cl bottles of Sparkling Water (€1.50) felt a bit pricey in the extreme. Steve ordered a much more satisfying 660ml bottle of Cobra (€4.50).

As has been the case in every Portuguese Curry House this past week, Poppadoms and three Dips were presented. The Poppadoms had the embedded Cumin Seeds, the Dips included Tamarind. Everything was devoured.

I managed to secure some photos of the interior, Indian décor in a traditional Portuguese setting, this was quite a departure from the more sterile premises one encounters.

Warm plates, a first on this trip, announced the arrival of the Curry.

The Naan had the much preferred teardrop shape and was on the edge of forming burnt blisters. Gosh, it might even have been cooked in a Tandoor! Soft, fluffy, this was a truly wonderful Naan. With a Coriander Topping and burnt edges, the Garlic Naan was even larger, even better? Steve:

The Naan Bread was lovely, soft, garlicky.

I was right not to order Rice, unusually, today Marg had. The Jeera Rice was more than Marg would manage, some would come my way later. The Pilao was also a substantial portion. Steve had much to get through.

Butter Chicken

This was an authentic looking Butter Chicken. The swirl of Cream was complemented by a Topping of Almonds. The orange colour was comparable to a Chicken Tikka Masala, Marg’s verdict made me wonder how different these two Dishes would have been:

I enjoyed the Poppadom pieces with the Tamarind and the green stuff. The Jeera Rice really complemented the rich, buttery, tomato sauce. Lovely pieces of Tikka Chicken, a filling dish.

Rice was definitely the correct accompaniment for this Curry.

*

*

Beef Bhuna

Coriander and Ginger Sticks, Chef had me won already. The Onion stood out in the Thick Masala. Big Blobs of Onion, Ballast, had I not had the Green Peppers withheld, I would have been distraught. I would eat the Onions first just to get rid of them. Alternatively, I could have set them aside and revealed just how much Ballast would be left on the plate.

The first dip of the beautiful Bread into the blended, rich Masala, was a special moment. Behold a brave Chef, the Seasoning was a la Hector. Consequently, the full Flavours of the Spices and Tomato came over strongly.

There did not appear to be a huge quantity of Beef. The first pieces I had were cut relatively small, each was bursting with Flavour. In terms of Texture, there was the right amount of chewing. Beef Curry appears rarely in these pages, quite a departure from Lamb. The blended, richly Flavoured Masala was excellent. The Spice Level was Moderate,

Tasty Beef, a quality Masala, and a near perfect Naan, Hector was in his element. This was a Beef Bhuna befitting of a – Wow!

It was at this point Marg declared a surplus of Jeera Rice. That which remained matched my quantity of Curry. I decanted from the karahi, I counted six pieces of Meat, so I must have had an OK portion.

And now for something completely different…

The Rice absorbed the Masala, the Curry was transformed, the intensity of Flavour was significantly diminished. When I announced that my Curry had lost its edge, Marg apologised. A lesson learned, Quality Curry is best eaten with Bread.

Chicken Madras

Topped with a sprinkling of Coriander and more rind than Lemon, this was a much more of a Soupy Curry. If anything, this magnified the excellence of the thicker  Bhuna Masala. I didn’t get a taste and so cannot compare the Flavours. Steve’s take:

The Madras sauce was spiced, not in your face. Flavours. The Chicken was tender, precooked Tikka. The Pilao Rice was very good, just no room.

Rather cheekily he added:

The star of the show was the Cobra!

Whilst we ate, various staff members checked on our progress. One guy bade farewell as he departed, Mein Host? Still, we were well looked after.

The Bill

€38.82 (£32.61)   … and somebody had a Big Bier!

The Aftermath

I managed to establish that Masala has been here since 2005. On presenting the Calling Card, our chap expressed further interest in Glasgow, where I boasted there are a hundred Curry outlets. Our conversation was sadly interrupted by someone from outside, looking for the Boss, so it goes.

Menu extracts

 

 

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