Following the review of Bo’ness Spice back in November, Hector and Marg have been invited to visit another Curry House. My thanks once more to Scott and Julia Thornton of – Hotel PR – for making it so. Today it was Cilantro (4 Albert Pl, Edinburgh EH7 5HN), sister restaurant to Bo’ness Spice, and open only a matter of weeks. Cilantro – as anyone who has ever consulted an Indian Cookbook knows, is the Spanish/American for Coriander.
After a first ever visit to Ocean Terminal in Leith, our walk back to the northern periphery of the Capital would have us arrive early for the scheduled 17.30 appointment. A quick phone call to Cilantro, and Shami, our host for the visit, confirmed we could arrive fifteen minutes early, and that we were expected.
Introductions complete, apparently I look like a – Hector – we were given the window seat in the otherwise empty premises. Early days yet, though Shami confirmed that of the many who have stopped to read the menu posted in the window, some have returned forthwith. Passing trade is presently not helped by the ongoing tram line extension. Northbound traffic is being rerouted away from Leith Walk.
Marg enquired as to the meaning of – Cilantro. As Shami translated, so he must have realised that at home, Hector does the cooking.
Bijou and contemporary – may best describe Cilantro. I assumed the wooden wall décor to be faux until Marg pointed out, no, this was the real thing. Cilantro seats eighteen. A BYOB system is in operation.
Shami brought the menu, he stated that there are similarities to that which we had seen at Bo’ness Spice. Whilst Prawn Curry is available at Cilantro, I spotted no Fish which certainly had been enjoyed at Bo’ness Spice. I outlined our usual model of no Starters, and that we would share a Vegetable Side. By ordering the three Dishes we would cover a greater cross section of the menu. The avoidance of Soupy Curry and Capsicum was relayed also. Shami assured me that the Masala at Cilantro would have genuine substance and that I should avoid the Jalfrezie.
And so Poppadoms and Chutneys were declined, two 500ml Bottles of Sparkling Water were brought as Shami mentioned the BYOB possibility. I believe he was amused when I declared – if I’m out for Curry I’ll have Curry, when I’m out for Bier, I’ll have Bier. So it goes.
At Bo’ness, Marg had Rogon Fish, Shatkora Lamb for Hector, plus the shared Aloo Gobi Massallum. Hector’s plan was to have something different, Marg had other ideas. The description of the Shatkora Lamb (£12.95) had her won, admittedly it was Hector who ordered this at Bo’ness Spice.
Working from the back of the menu, Special Rice (£4.50) features Egg and Peas, interesting. Achari Aloo (£6.95) – Pieces of marinated potato cooked in a tantalising pickle masala, garnished with whole green chillies & fresh cilantro leaves – should add the dynamic of a truly – Interesting Vegetable. A Naan (£3.75) would complete the Order, but what was Hector to have for the main course?
Achari Gosht (£11.95) would have been a worthy choice, however, the joy of Pickle was now taken care of. From the list of – Cilantro’s Specialities – this left the Hector with either Karai Gosht (£11.95) or Sag Gosht (£11.95). With regards to the Karai Gosht, Shami confirmed that the unwelcomed – Green Peppers – could be withheld. I refrained from asking why they were there in the first place, nice Hector. Was the Sag Gosht – Masala with Herb – or – Herb with Masala? Shami’s answer tended towards the latter. Karai Gosht, above medium Spice was agreed, medium for the rest.
The inside back page of the menu points out that Cilantro is not a fast food restaurant, our wait would be appropriate. Cilantro also suggest that Takeaways should be collected rather than delivered – to maintain the highest quality and freshness. This I totally support, I cannot comprehend why people are happy to have their food delivered, and suffer the consequent delays which form the basis of the majority of online complaints.
I had time to show Shami the list of Curry Houses reviewed in Edinburgh. Today makes ten, whereas, in Glasgow, the total exceeds a hundred. Chains aside, I believe there are only three venues I have not visited in my home city. The international coverage of Curry-Heute was outlined. The mention of the wonder that is Punjabi Curry in Athena was appreciated. Shami mentioned a special arrangement to have people move from India to Hellas/Greece. Time to eat.
The Special Rice immediately impressed. Two fresh Herbs, including – Cilantro – topped the generous portion. Finely chopped Onions were in the mix also. There was clearly enough here to share. On tasting, it became apparent that the Special Rice would stand up as a Dish in its own right. The Seasoning here was spot on, more on this below.
The Naan had been quartered, this always ruins the impact that a whole Bread can create, however, it would never have fitted on the table otherwise. With a decent girth and burnt extremities, the Naan proved to be substantial, also both light and fluffy. The Naan at Bo’ness Spice was thinner and suited Marg’s preference, today’s Naan was what the Hector seeks. I think we both knew at this point that we would be embarrassed at the end of the meal, food would be left. I advise anyone visiting Cilantro not to overdo the Rice and Bread order.
Karai Gosht
Hector the Herbalist is concluding that the second Herb present today was – Watercress. This formed part of the toppings along with Ginger Strips and copious sliced Green Chillies. The toppings were abundant, for a brief moment – Manchester Curry – came to mind, we had – foliage!
Beneath, lay a suitably Thick Masala, the quality was self evident. Normally one would eat a Karahi Gosht with Bread, possibly straight from the actual karahi. Today there was Rice, decanting was mandatory. I counted the standard eight pieces of Meat, however, it soon became apparent how large each piece was. On eating there were further subdivisions, near endless Meat, was noted. A more than substantial portion.
With Whole Green Chillies embedded in the Masala, there was an instant – kick – before the Flavours from the Masala could be ascertained. The Seasoning was below the Hector idyll, however, this was where the Special Rice imposed its presence. From here came that little bit extra which brought out the Flavours from the Masala, now we had a Karahi Gosht!
The quality of the Lamb astonished (us both!), this was beyond Tender, super-soft. As always, praise to the Chef who can take Lamb this close, but not have it turn to pulp.
Also mixed through the Masala were sizeable pieces of Onion, but thankfully far from the dreaded Big Onion Blobs. Had I not asked for the Peppers to be withheld, I can only speculate as to what might might have been presented. The Onions were manageable.
Loadsa melt in the mouth Lamb, a sensible ratio of Masala to Meat, the foliage, all the components of a worthy Karahi Gosht. None would be left, however, this was at the expense of doing justice to the impressive Naan. Hector has his limits, and there was still the Vegetable Side to deal with.
Note, absolutely nothing – runny – on the above plate!
Achari Aloo
The two Herb topping maintained. The Masala, smothering the large pieces of Potato, at first looked similar to that of the Karahi. However, Tomatoes had been cooked through also. Add to this the finely chopped Carrots (?) which would prove to be the source of the Pickle element, and here was quite an array of Vegetables, a complex Masala. That there was such a quantity of Masala maybe took me by surprise. Bombay Potato for example would have none, Aloo Gobi appreciably less, this was a veritable Potato Curry. In recent times Curry-Heute has been celebrating the humble Potato, its versatility truly recognised. Marinated Potato – even better, the ability to absorb Flavours in the way that say, Chicken doesn’t, has been oft reported.
The palate had to adapt from the Flavours of the Karahi. On striking the Achari motherlode, here it was, the Big Pickle Blast, delightful! Marinated Potato – this was everything I had hoped for, nay, more. Good as the Karahi Gosht was, this Achari Aloo was simply bursting with Flavour. Hector loves an Achari, prior to today, always with Meat. Achari Aloo, a first, looking for this on menus in time to come should become a matter of course, especially as today, when available as a – Side. This – discovery – was certainly the highlight of the meal, for Hector at least. Marg had taken but a Soupcon, all the more coming my way.
Shatkora Lamb
Once again, the twin Herb garnish topped the blended Masala. This Masala was possibly even more viscous than those above. Normally, I would have sneaked a taste, however, having thoroughly enjoyed this creation at Bo’ness Spice, I let Marg savour the moment. This would be Marg’s first encounter of the bitter, citrus Shatkora Fruit.
As highlighted above, Marg was immediately impressed by the Tenderness of the Lamb. This was the first time that Marg has ever had a Curry with a significant – Citrus – presence. That she would go on to clear her plate says it all, but here are some more words, regardless:
A good portion of very tender lamb, complemented with the citrus rind. Full of flavour, and went well with the Special Rice.
The Naan was very soft, the Achari was a new addition for me.
Shami had been most attentive throughout our sumptuous feast. He studied our progress and accepted our apology for the Rice and Bread which had to be abandoned. Whilst Marg enjoyed a Coffee, Hector finished the Sparkling Water.
The Aftermath
My thanks to Mohammed, proprietor of both Bo’ness Spice and Cilantro, for extending invitations to review both establishments. One day I’ll get to meet Mohammad, maybe next time?
One final Curry-Heute ritual had to be completed, the customary photo.
2022 Menu
It was back in January when Marg and Hector stumbled upon Rafi’s Spicebox (17 Goodramgate, York YO1 7LW England). I had known of Rafi’s existence for approaching twenty years but assumed it had gone. Since 2017 there is a second shop in Leeds. 
Curry Kits, they have to be better than buying a sauce from a jar, surely? One has to accept that the price is over the odds for the Spice mix. For those without a Spice cupboard, maybe they make sense. I purchased three: Madras, Rogan Josh and Kashmiri. That it has taken six months to open the first, might be testimony to the array of Herbs and Spices in Hector’s House, also, not much 
The Vegetables were all cooked to perfection, especially the Potatoes! As ever, the Chicken added nothing to the overall experience. The Spice Level was moderate, a few extra Chillies would have done this Curry no harm. If – Madras – was meant as a rung on the Spice ladder, it had failed. At least it wasn’t sweet.
Season and garnish with coriander leaves. I soon realised that Salt should have been added. Too late for this meal, tomorrow is another day. Before washing up, I added a good teaspoon of Salt. We’ll see what tomorrow brings.
Ah, much better! The Potato had absorbed the Flavours from the Masala. Potato Curry, I should serve this and test Marg’s reaction. The Seasoning made all the difference, this was a much more satisfying Curry, but not wonderful. 
The Curry Kit meant that the initial preparation time was significantly reduced. The pre-cooked Onions making the difference. Next time, I’ll add more Chillies, and some Fresh Ginger to add more bite. The overnight infusion certainly enhanced the experience. 
Murphy’s Pakora Bar (1293 Argyle St., Glasgow G3 8TL) is back! And it’s located metres from the original premises in the former 
If one made a night of it, as a – bar – there’s little that suits Hector’s discerning palate, Budvar may have to do. 
We took in some of the entertainment before getting down to the real purpose of our visit. Last time I enjoyed a late afternoon Lamb Curry courtesy of 
Having been a mere eight days since we stood beside each other at the 
The freshly made Pakora at the much missed 
There were multiple queues at Red Cherry. Marg stood in the longest whilst I verified that the shorter queues were for those with Mela tokens. Who gets these? I could see no price list, how were they getting away with this? Annoyingly, Red Cherry was – cash only. Whilst Marg gave the Order, I was able to photograph the goings on. 
Marg nearly ordered Chana Chat, I talked her out of it. She settled for a Meat Samosa and a Kashmiri Tea. For Hector, Lamb Curry with Pilao. The young chap serving first offered Salad on top of the Curry then a choice of bottled sauce. No thanks. There was no – foliage – on offer. Babu at least had Coriander. 
It was chucking it down. Tables had been arranged under the supposed tree cover. We found a stehplatz at a table. With food in one hand and umbrella in the other, how does one eat? Marg took over umbrella duty, she could eat and hold the brolly. 
There was more Pilau than Curry, here we go again. Suffice to say, the Rice had absorbed all of the Shorva from the Curry leaving a suitably Dry Curry, in the Hector style. The first taste confirmed that this was from Manchester, the telltale blast of Clove. There were no Whole Spices in the Curry. Apart from the Lamb, Peas were the only other solids, these were mixed through the Rice. 
Today I established that
On Monday, the plan was to take Marg to 
Marg asked for a large bottle of Sparkling Water. We were presented with two 330ml bottles of Still. Not only had the chap not understood our request, he had opened and partly poured the contents of each bottle into glasses. Not what we wanted, a jug would have done. At least the water tasted better than Glasgow’s tap water, as in, there was none. 
Marg, who was having a dinner out this evening, decided to have a Frankie Wrap – Minced Lamb & Green Peas (£6.95). Hopefully, this would reveal the efficacy of the Keema Matar and not be too filling. 
A substantial Wrap, accompanied by a simple Salad and a Mint Sauce. Marg identified the other contents beyond simple Mince and Peas:
Across the table, Hector was having something completely different. The Paratha was as hoped for in terms of texture. But why so small? The temptation to immediately order another was overcome, I probably wouldn’t have finished two. I certainly wasn’t about to part with another £2.95. The Paratha should be larger, appreciably so. 
In discussion with “
Topped with a mere sprinkling of Coriander, a whole Green Chilli protruded from the mass. I decided to decant to the plate, I didn’t count the Meat there was certainly enough. The knowledge that this could be another testing experience was foremost in my mind. 
In terms of being a test, this time I passed. Today’s Lamb Sukka was moderate in comparison to 
Curry with Marg on a Monday is becoming a semi-regular event. We arrived at 
Lamb Leek Potato
Is that all? – was my reaction to the small pile of Curry on the plate. That I had appreciably more Rice amplified the disparity. And what is one expected to do when the Curry is served in such a manner? Side by side it had to be. Wasted Rice.
Where was the Meat? It was well buried, in time I did reach the standard count of eight, I also accepted that the portion was – worthy – after all. 
I was taken by surprise, what looked like a bit of a monstrosity at the start, turned out to be a very fine, and certainly enjoyable, Curry. This was decidedly not a Mainstream Curry, something different, why was it removed from the Main Menu? 
A larger portion, or was mine just piled higher? There was little/no Oil or Masala oozing from the base of the Mince, the sign of a quality Keema. Wedges of Potato had been added, as had Peas – Keema Aloo Mutter! Marg enjoys the addition of both Vegetables. 
Rough Mince – was her next take, so not as finely ground as the Mince and Tatties served at home. Presumably this was also Lamb Mince. 
I had to ask about the framed – 2022 Curry Award. He was pleased to tell me it was for – New Restaurant of the Year. I hadn’t realised that the 
Fifteen minutes of preparation, seventeen minutes of pleasure – yes, another review of the outstanding Karahi Gosht at 
Arriving at 
Shery brought a jug of tap water, the Salad was not offered. Once more, a plastic cup, are they trying to be rid of their single-use plastic? The chemical taste I have been experiencing in this part of Glasgow was much subdued. 
Shery brought the food. The Chapatti had been scored in half, acceptable. At one point I considered ordering a second, it was working so well. Maybe one day someone will take me seriously and offer a half-Chapatti?
Sizzling hot, and some! This is how food should be served. The Ginger Strips and Coriander on top were just dandy. As with 
Normally, when working at
Seemingly such a simple Dish to prepare, there are loads of videos to watch online. My attempts at replication do not turn out like this. Respect.
And so back to 
Hector Holmes is on the case. I showed photos of her former premises on West Regent St., now – 
Yesterday there was a post on a social medium by 
The Chapli were spotted through the window, irresistible. Marg would have one, Hector – two. 
As we surveyed the Dishes on display, Shafiq confirmed that this was – the first time in a long time – since 
The Salad arrived with two sauces. I was pleased to find the Chilli Sauce had been heated, this adds another dimension to the Chapli. Marg commented upon the quality of the Olives, these were excellent, and streets ahead of what came our way in the recent trip to 
A Spicy Chicken Burger, the Seasoning was spot on. After last Friday’s debacle at 
Not to have a Chapli at 
The presentation of the substantial Chapattis was by Shkoor himself. He advised that more would come as necessary. We would never eat both. When will someone invent the half Chapatti? 
Splash! Splash! – the joy of having Shorva with a Chapatti, it was comforting to find how easily the liquid was mopped up. 
The Kofta Masala (€12.90) comes with Rice, as do all Mains at 
The food arrived after a respectable period of preparation. The Butter Naan was in bits, and just how much Butter had they spread across it? The thin, peely wally, Bread was – as limp as a chewed rag (Kipling). 
Four generously large Meatballs sat in the House Masala. The description – 
The mere sprinkling of Coriander on top would be the only noted Herb. Two sticks of Ginger completed the Toppings. 
Spicy, well-Seasoned – were the first notes. I marvelled at the size of the Kofta, each would initially become four pieces, later these were subdivided. This was a lot of Meatball. Hector and Dr. Stan had well-Seasoned Frikadellen, twice in 
