Hector and Marg in a holiday resort? Not our usual style of trip, not unheard of, last year we went to Girvan. I am not a beach person, though accommodation with a pool, where one manages to actually swim a few strokes, is a welcome change.
Içmeler in May, an unattainable concept prior to this year. The resort is just reawakening up after two years of hell, not just Covid, but a major forest fire at the peak of last summer which disrupted the town’s infrastructure.
The weans are still at school, everywhere, only people of a certain age are here. Içmeler is set up for the British. English, even Scottish breakfasts, are on offer in many establishments. A well known brand of a Tamarind based brown sauce correspondingly features. Marg told me quite emphatically that I was not going out to join the breakfast brigade this morning, I suggested Curry instead.
There are two Curry Houses which keep popping up when researching Içmeler, Masala (Içmeler, Kenan Evren Blv., 48720 Marmaris/Mugla, Türkiye) appears to be the better rated. That Masala is open at noon every day, suited the Hector dining pattern. We arrived at 13.40, unsurprisingly, we would be the only customers.
The waiter brought the menu, the prices were significantly higher than those seen in the Istanbul Curry Houses visited last week, as in more than double. Tourist prices. Two types of Cuisine are available at Masala, Indian, and that other stuff from further east, as was borne out by the Complimentary Starter: Prawn Crackers and three Dips. Two of the Dips were suitably spiced, the third was cough medicine.
What to have? Karahi? After my two recent Istanbul Karahi experiences, time to return to the Mainstream. Bhuna Lamb (259.90TL) should provide a true and fair view of the Curry at Masala. Taking no chances re Soupiness, Rice would accompany. Vegetable Rice (44.90TL), diversity rules.
Marg took the Samosa (59.90TL) route once again, but only after she ascertained that the Salad shown in the photo in the menu was accurate. A Large Water (24.90TL) would complete the Order.
As ever, I asked that no Capsicum would appear in either my Curry or Vegetable Rice. The waiter was keen to establish a level of Spice. Above medium – was eventually noted, after a warning.
I watched sacks of Onions being brought in to the restaurant during our half hour wait for the Order to be prepared. If only I could justify buying these at home, the price per unit is a tiny fraction of what we pay for Onions in supermarkets.
The food arrived, both Marg and Hector’s together, as asked.
Samosa
The Salad was little more than leaves of Lettuce. What does one do with them?
The Samosae were Vegetable. Marg found both the colour of the interior and the corresponding Flavour intriguing. Turmeric – was her nominated Spice, how she knows what Turmeric on its own tastes like, well, maybe she does. The colouring did give this credence. Marg was unable to identify a particular Vegetable in the Mash.
Hard to tell which Veg, mushie. Best Samosa I’ve had in a while.
The Vegetable Rice was definitely a portion for one. On decanting to the plate, it just about looked enough. This is a far cry from Central Europe where Rice portions are ridiculously large. The British influence in Içmeler?
The Rice contained Mushrooms, presumably tinned, diced Carrots and the tiniest flecks of Broccoli.
Bhuna Lamb
Perched high on its stand, the Curry stood proudly, the Coriander topping pointing skywards. As I arranged the Meat on the Rice, so I counted to double figures, the pieces, however, were tending towards – small.
There was a sense of excessive – red – in the Masala. Round Seeds, too small to be Coriander, were mixed through the viscous, blended Masala. On further study, I noted the Masala as gelatinous, this was not the Texture one creates by blending Onions and Tomatoes alone. Was adding Cornstarch, Chef’s attempt at creating what he thought was a Bhuna Masala?
I began by sampling the Vegetable Rice, a pronounced Flavour came from this, a good start. Then the Meat and Masala, nothing. I ate on, waiting for the Flavour of the Bhuna to hit the palate, nothing.
The Spice did build to something I would describe as – below Medium. The Seasoning was non-existent, hence the total lack of Flavour. Unsurprisingly, the Meat and Masala were strangers on the plate, how long had they been in each other’s company?
*
These are moments of despair for Hector. I can only be true to myself and my readers, there was nothing happening here. Other Sources describe Masala as serving – authentic – Cuisine. What did they order? I felt my constructive criticism of the two Istanbul Curry Houses to be misplaced in comparison. Suddenly, the perceived lack of Seasoning at Nosh-E-Jaan was set aside, what lay before me today was not even on the Scale of Seasoning.
By the halfway point, I was convincing myself I could taste Tomato. The blend of Spice was making the palate aware that something – Curry-like – was being consumed. One forkful suddenly gave Flavour, Cardamom, yet I saw no evidence. Then I found a linear Seed, or was it a husk?
As I arranged the final pieces of Meat, Masala and Rice in the centre of the plate so I declared:
I’m getting something now.
Truly, what you see in the photo was the only part of this Bhuna Lamb to give Flavour. And to prove my love of Curry regardless, I ate every grain of Rice, every morsel of the Curry.
The Bill
350.73TL (£17.87) This was after a 10% discount for dining before 18.00.
The Aftermath
Mein Host asked, he had to be told.
I showed him photos of the Desi Curry enjoyed last week in the two Istanbul Curry Houses. Those were at the opposite end of the Curry spectrum.
Your Curry is for tourists.
I’ll tell Chef.
Menu extracts 2022
Until yesterday, my research had not revealed 
Marg and Hector set off up the hill from Galata to Pera, in the direction of Taksim Square. Once again, another Curry House was found near our destination, this is how Istanbul works, it’s all functional linkages. If one wishes to purchase electrical fittings of any type, then the streets around our accommodation are where one comes. Glasgow, however, appears to have more Turkish Barbers than Istanbul, but then I’m hardly looking for them.
Arriving at Nosh-E-Jaan at 13.30, a group were sat near the doorway in the otherwise empty restaurant. Spartan – may describe the decor. I would come to regret choosing a seat adjacent to the TV, the soundbar in particular. Far too loud. 
People came and went, no more actual customers. The TV blared, a Turkish singer, nowhere near as good as the Erdem Ozkan Band we saw last night at Nardi’s Jazz Club (Galata). 
Four small Samosae accompanied by Ketchup, and thankfully, Raita. What’s with the Ketchup in 
Very cute – was Marg’s first observation. 
I immediately admired the pot, the garnish, the contents looked so appealing.
The pedigree of the Masala was self evident, it appeared to be Tomato-based. This was indeed Desi Cuisine. After yesterday’s strange experience at 
Big Spice, small seasoning, no chance of the – wow – today. The Meat was delightfully Soft, the Texture I admired greatly. It takes great skill to get Beef to this level of Tenderness and not let it turn to pulp. The Meat was excellent, I could have done with more. At these prices, let’s not complain. In terms of quantity, it was way more than 
My mouth was on fire by the time I wiped the Masala residue from my plate. This Curry was good, but, one always hopes when visiting a new venue that something truly wonderful is going to be experienced. Not today. This does not mean that I did not enjoy what I ate, I just know it could have really hit the spot. 
Our waiter had issues with the card reader. Another chap, with more English and a second machine, evidently – Mein Host – sorted things. He asked the customary question.
Later, standing in the abnormally lengthy queue to use the facilities at Ziba Bar, I was in conversation with a local. On the wall was a poster advertising a book. In the top right corner, there was another word which features oft in these pages – Umami!
A young chap brought the menu. Marg was not ready for a large meal having had breakfast. The Mix Vegetable Pakora (50TL) would suffice. The Mutton and Beef section of the menu became Hector’s focal point. 
We took in the décor. The marble tiled floor was wiped twice during or stay. The stone walls were faux, polystyrene. I only managed one shot of the interior, the place was too full thereafter, no need to risk offending folk. 
I could see what I took to be strips of Potato in a freshly cooked, crispy batter. Marg declared strips of Onion. In time she identified both Vegetables. How was this Mix Vegetable? These are the standard two Vegetables in Pakora. The strips bemused, why had the Vegetables not been finely chopped? OK, Pakora as we expect it, is a British thing, probably even Scottish. The English have their – Bhaji. 
I took a Soupçon: Spicy and well Seasoned. Marg certainly enjoyed it:
The Butter Naan was a sensible size. Thinner than anticipated, the 
Large pieces of Mutton and the Coriander Topping stood out from the Thick Masala. I could see that Yoghurt had been added to the blended Masala. I was reasonably pleased with what I had been given, traces of Oil could be seen mixed through, only marginally on the periphery of the karahi as I have come to expect. I counted the Meat, eight, decent sized pieces. This was value for money.
On dipping the Naan, there was certainly a blast of pleasure, but no – wow. Perhaps a bit heavy on the – Creaminess. The Spice was there, Seasoning was not an issue. I was starting to feel a bit underwhelmed when I reevaluated the scene. This was certainly more than a Mainstream Karahi Gosht, what was I missing?
Now we’re talking, behold the classic grey-brown hue. The Masala looks stunning. 
This afternoon, a return to 
Seabass Malabar (£11.95) was expected to be as – Soupy – as the 
Like Pilau, but more intense flavours. 
A yellow Curry with Coconut, quite a departure from the Hector norm. At least there were no Big Blobs of Onion. The Fish was from Kerala, I was informed. There was just enough to cover the central area of Rice. The Fish was soft, far from rubbery. Maybe a tad more in the portion would be a suggestion. How big was the Seabass?
I had hot food before me, the Spice built steadily. Mein Host told me that in Kerala, this Curry would be served seriously Spicy, here it was toned down. Still, the nose was wiped, more than once. The Curry Leaves were picked out and set aside as they were encountered. Hector’s digestive system does not process these. 
Every grain of Rice on the plate was eaten. The Curry had been certainly enjoyed. I would have this again.
An hour or so later, the full taste of South Indian Curry was lingering on the palate. No Red Chillies, I conclude the Tamarind and Coconut must therefore play a significant role. Thankfully, Coconut in Curry does not always mean – 
The presentation was a major departure from what was expected. Three large Lamb Chops sat under a smothering of a Spinach Mash. Was this in fact a Curry? Did it matter? Nobody was going to be disappointed with this. 
Marg’s verdict:
This was the only choice of the three which actually resembled a traditional – Curry. It was therefore a justification for having the Rice. Potato and Peas were expected, the cooked Tomato wedges offered even more. The Masala resembled a blended Vegetable pulp as is the norm in such a creation. The fluffy Potatoes had absorbed some of the Flavours from the Masala. From somewhere, possibly the Peas, a slight sweetness was evident. 
Presented in a karahi, this could easily have been served sizzling on an iron platter. Dry – was promised, Dry was delivered. When the Head Waiter came to check on our progress I informed him:
Some of the Onions were cooked to black, how good did they taste? The Lamb puzzled, I studied it closely. There were no signs of skewer holes, so not Tandoori Lamb. My deduction, the Lamb had indeed been dry fried on the Tawa. This Meat did have cremated extremities. Every mouthful was going to be sheer joy, Meat that was giving Flavour, it had to, given the lack of an obvious Masala. The karahi was not just Lamb and Onions. Tomatoes were listed, again I deduce that these had been cooked down to create the fine coating over the Meat. This Dish was – Dry – but suitably – moist. It’s Soupy Masala we try to avoid, this creation was on another level. 
On scraping the last pieces of Onion from the base of the karahi, an extra blast of burnt offerings, wonderful. Usually I use my Naan/Chapatti to mop up the Masala, today I enjoyed the Meat in Bread. Did I mention how wonderful the Naan was? 
How I have missed the Ramadan Buffet at 
We were advised to arrive in good time before the 21.00 Buffet launch. The window table nearest the action was allocated. Cola (£2.50), and a sensibly priced bottle of Sparkling Water (£2.95), would complement the jugs of tap water consumed. Does all of Glasgow’s tap water taste of bleach, or is it just Nelson Street properties? 
We were in the queue when the 21.03 official start was rung out. Salads and Sauces were the first in order, as if … well Marg couldn’t resist the Fruit Salad, she also asked what the first Meaty Starter was – Chicken Nuggets – tee-hee. There were a few kids present this evening, one already in his pyjamas. 
The latter certainly intrigued. I shall have to search through my collection of Indian Cookbooks to find the recipe for these. Mashed Potato, and more. This is the joy of having access to such an array of Starters, one should always find something new and interesting. Chicken Chat/Tikka, I have always enjoyed these Indian versions of Nando’s. Why pour sauce over them to create – Curry? 
Lamb Bhuna, just look at that Masala. This was the classic 
Finally, Lamb on-the-bone, that this was last in line was probably a calculated decision. What could possibly follow 
So, up we went. There are no prizes for guessing what the ladies selected. Is Curry-Heute becoming sexist? Was it ever not? As predicted, Marg did not pass by the Keema Karela or Butter Chicken, Kath had the Chicken Tikka Masala. I pointed out the – must tries – to Graeme. He was game, and took Soupçons of the Haleem and Paye in addition to the other Men’s Curry. OK, I’ll stop this, until next time. 
Except, I found myself, camera in hand, at the Desserts. Gulab Jamun, Kath was nearly tempted, Gajar Halwa and Sweet Rice were the premium Desserts. Cheese Cake, two styles, proved irresistible to Hector. Graeme loves Jelly. Not content with all that sat before her, Marg ordered four scoops of Ice Cream (£3.95), to share, allegedly. 
Village
Having studied the fayre over the last couple of years, I wondered if there would be anything suitable for me at all. Karahi Gosht, to the best of my knowledge, has never featured at Swadish. Dare I report my empirical observation that the Meat element of the Menu is more suited to the fairer sex? Lots of classic Chicken Curry, not enough Lamb. I shall back up this statement with references to evenings I have dined with a dozen plus ladies: 
The A4 Menu was on the table, I was pleased to see two Lamb Mains, Marg got her selection in first: Braised Hydrabi Lamb Korma (£15.00) – Tender Scottish Lamb beautifully braised for hours, Cloves, Cinnamon, Brown Onion Sauce. The Korma as it should be. 
In Europe, abundant Rice would be inclusive, especially at these prices. This is the Merchant City. Our usual dining model is to share a Rice and Bread. Marg’s preferred Chapatti was not on the Menu. The descriptions of the meals, and online photos confirmed the Curry here would be – Soupy. We needed Rice, but how much? We asked Sanjeev, our waiter, to describe the size of a Rice portion.
The ornate Toppings were commensurate with the locale. I would rather have forgone these and paid a fiver less. 
Bone Marrow was the only clue given as to the base of the Shorva. Behold the Soupiness which Hector typically eschews, however, this was Curry. But which Curry?
Cloves and Cinnamon, I knew what was coming, I was not disappointed. The intensity of Flavour from the Shorva was taking the palate to the south of 
Here I can use – Masala – with confidence. Far less – Soupy – the sauce had a much thicker consistency, closer to our preference. Beneath the artistic Toppings and Masala, sat large pieces of Lamb, there was clearly a sufficient portion here also. The Soupçon of Masala which crossed the table wasn’t a huge departure from my own Curry. 
Later, there was a cake. 
More Curry, just what Hector needed after Saturday’s excess at 
Aloo Gobi, perfect. The Aloo Keema Mutter would suit Marg. The Chapli Kebabs were covered, what a pile, someone has been busy. We took our seats. The latest waiter took the Order. Two Chapli for me (aye right), a Naan was added also, plus two cans of Mango Rubicon. It was revealed that the Keema was – Chicken Mince. Marg was happy with this. 
A generous half went east, the remainder was quite sufficient. Hector would say that, this was not a Lamb Chop scenario. 
The round Naan was served whole. Thin, the way Marg prefers it, there were some blisters. No panhandle, still, a worthy Naan, all but a scrap would be eaten. Marg acknowledged that sharing this was a positive change from our usual Chapatti. 
Steaming hot, a good start. The peripheral Oil stood out as did the Coriander Topping. Sliced Green Chillies would soon be encountered, no issue with the Spice Level here, or the Seasoning. This is 
Hector, beware of the Black Cardamom – too late!
There’s dry and there’s – Dry. No peripheral Oil, I could not see much in the way of Masala. How many venues mistakenly serve this as approaching – Soup? The Potato pieces were substantial, plenty of Peas in there too. Marg could eat this every day. 
A very rich and flavoursome dish full of different textures, and a step above my favourite – Mince& Tatties. A wonderful meal.
Four days ago, a certain social medium flagged up that it is three years since 
Arriving at 14.45, the premises were seemingly empty, nobody front of house. Mein Host came out from the back kitchen, my Order was relayed. 
I took the opperchancity to photograph the far dining room in which I have yet to sit. As I studied the Takeaway Menu, I established that there was no price difference for dining in. My Naan was officially – Fresh Plain Nan. The Bread prices at Khyber Pass have always been realistic. 
A Salad and Raita were brought to the table. I asked for a jug of water, having seen no Sparkling Water in the fridges. The Salad was certainly better than – modest, the thin Raita had a Peppery kick. At this point I established that the – New Management – have been in place for four months. My question – what happened to the other guys? – fell on deaf ears. 
These premises have changed hands at least twice since I first visited – 
Lamb Karahi
At 
The Naan, served whole, was also huge. Despite the perforations, it had risen, probably due to the sheer amount of dough. I suspect some wholemeal flour had gotten into the dough mix. The Bread had risen to create a sufficient level of fluffiness.
I had hardly made a dent in the contents of the karahi. The Oil ran across the plate. This was not going to waste, especially at a time when cooking Oil is rapidly disappearing from our supermarket shelves. 
The first wipe of Oil immediately confirmed the efficacy of this Curry. The anticipated – Pepperiness – was there, and of course, the – Seasoning. The Masala shrouded the Meat, there wasn’t much room in the karahi for an excess. Tomato-based, this was the real deal, the only – red – that would have been added to the pot when cooking. Tomatoes, Green Chillies, Salt and Pepper cooked for hours, hopefully with Lamb on-the-bone in situ. Namkeen Karahi has such a distinctive, full on Flavour, the simplicity of its magnificence still baffles after all these years.
It would have been criminal to question the quantity at the point of serving. I took the remaining portion of, still hot, Namkeen Karahi up to the counter:
Update – August 2025
A train journey without wearing a mask, for Hector, today’s trip through from Glasgow was the first time in over two years there has been the choice. Today’s chosen venue for Curry was the tried, tested and always reliable 
Master Khan brought the latest edition of the 
The Naan, served whole, was enormous. It had the correct pan-handle shape to have come from a Tandoor. Lightly fired around the edges, it had risen significantly in the main body of the Bread. Only a minimal spread of Butter had been scored across the middle, a bit more would have been welcomed. Thankfully, no Garlic had been added. This was one mighty Naan, excellent, and no way would I manage more than half. 
The Meat was piled high in the karahi. Such was the volume, counting was unnecessary, if this wasn’t the half-kilo, it wasn’t far off. Given the restrictions of the karahi itself, the Masala was certainly the definition of Minimal. This is exactly how Hector seeks his Karahi. Pieces of Tomato pulp were mixed through the presumably Tomato-based Masala. From here was the core of the Flavour. The Masala on the Naan was truly delightful. Very little Oil was collecting on the base of the karahi, a few calories less.
The Tender Meat gave back the Spice, I took another photo at the halfway stage. Later with six decent sized pieces of Lamb still to go, I knew this would be a challenge. The Naan was abandoned, finish the Karahi. 
